yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
I see you are doing alot with bios. But the last thing (bios 1.3) totally enraged me.

Damn you people. Before you CALIBRATE, make sure you are Garrus Vakarian. Because our battery capacity is NOT 38K. Voltage is 8.7 max specified, 5000 mah = how much worth? And before that MEASURE REAL CHARGE VALUE! AT least do it with batteryinfoviewer! Because my cube measures REAL capacity - 45k. (45000+\-) And number change in 44-46 range. It means, that real max voltage is 8.7-9.3v, overcharge probably. And you limit that to 38???????

Thank you, but..NO

and your bios makes type-c or somewhere there do buzzing sound.

and my discharge rate turned from 6-8K\h to 9-11k\h.

Sorry, your bios is as green as it could get. No way I ll be using that. I m flashing stock

To flash stock bios, I should download it, rename it to bios.bin, and flash it with the same tool that flashes custom bios, right? Need guide to revert to stock :)
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
It does not work. The tablet actually turns off after 10 seconds without problems. But when restart and shutdown via windows again turning the red LED and making noises.
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
Damn, now you're flooding XDA with your nonsense as well.

Veras and dim565 on 4PDA already answered your question correctly, but i will tell you again:

BatteryInfoView reads the information from the ACPI, the ACPI reads it from the Embedded Controller.

You can use RWEverything to read the EC data.

0, 00, 01, 02, 03 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 0A, 0B, 0C, 0D, 0E, 0F
80 ECWR, XX10, XX11, XX11, B1DC, B1DC, B1FV, B1FV, B1FC, B1FC, XX15, XX15, B1ST, B1CR, B1CR, B1RC
90 B1RC, B1VT, B1VT

B1DC = Design Capacity
B1FV = Design Voltage
B1FC = Full Charge Capacity
B1ST = Status
B1CR = Current
B1RC = Remaining Capacity
B1VT = Voltage

Now the magic trick: ACPI just multiplies the raw EC data with a simple number, but instead with just 10 (as previously) it will now correctly multiply it with the design voltage of 7.6V

Those are just hidden features, you don't like it?

I doubt this is caused by the Bios, but since you are so eager to get back to default. Original Bios is located here.

Edit:

Download this, rename the Original Bios or your Bios Backup to bios.bin and put in into the bin folder.

Now i just flashed the default Bios as well and to my surprise ... nothing changed.

Idling on 50% brightness with default Bios = -5W

Idling on 50% brightness with modified Bios = -5W

The noise is probably caused by the embedded controller, it was already noticed on the Cube i7 Stylus.

-> http://4pda.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=645616&view=findpost&p=45510491

Are you sure this is the right device for you? You are probably better suited with something more simple.
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
@Wootever, my problem has evolved

Now does not the physical button on / off ... but only under Windows. Only hibernates closing the keyboard (which I just arrived and is great) or ordering windows hibernating, but then I can not wake up. However, if I turn off the tablet (and always get the problem of red LED) hit the power button and turn on the tablet. I do not understand . Apparently it is a physical problem button or circuitry but apparently just does not work under Windows. I have to say that the volume buttons located next work ok.

What are the symptoms of tablet? physical problem? reinstall windows?

I'm thinking of claiming the seller (SO CUBE) but is a nuisance send the tablet back to China. And if I reinstall windows need to prove my activation key or a version of Windows for i9
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=403092]QtKiguis[/MENTION]

I would try to re-install Windows and reset Bios settings, this sometimes can correct some issues, The activation key should be embedded into the Bios, i clean installed Windows 10 Home and it was activated right after the first boot.

Edit:

You can also use ProduKey and note all keys before re-installing.
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
Produkey works perfectly. I have my backup of my keys. Many thanks

Now I'll get a copy of Windows 10 home. I imagine you did not have problems with drivers. I see you posted pack in the first post.

I will explain here it works if someone else happens
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Cant re-flash stock bios, program says "latest bios installed!" and closes. What's wrong?
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Thank you.
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
@Wootever, I don't get to enter the bios. ESC hit on boot with my USB keyboard and nothing. Either with the original keyboard. Right now I'm reinstalling windows.

If I install your modified BIO, addition to containing improvements, it would be like a RESET?
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
Well, I finally un updating windows and then installed the latest bios modified. It has not changed anything and I still have the same problem.

The positive feedback is that windows is installed with your original activation key and the issue of drivers is 100% resolved with the pack in the first post.

By the way, thought that in your bios, [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION], the issue of large sdcards was solved, but still does not recognize my 64GB. It's possible? Or I add another problem on my tablet to the list
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=403092]QtKiguis[/MENTION]

My 64GB Samsung microsd card is working fine, seems like a compatibility problem with certain cards.

Another thing you might try: disable fast startup for Windows

Otherwise it seems not like an Bios or Windows related issue.

Edit: I tried another 64GB card without being recognized this time, at least i can re-produce the issue now.
[Device Reviews and Information] elfenix182:
First, thank you [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION] for your very good job.

I need to change "TCC Activation offset". How to show hidden setting on bios?

What´s the default bios Setting for TCC Activation offset?

And finally [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION], can you do a bios version showing this advanced settings? I need it for gaming, like in your Bios for the Cube i7.

Regards
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=7194622]elfenix182[/MENTION]

I will make it visible again, the default offset is 0 (100°C max temp).

Edit:

-> http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=65969104&postcount=4
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
30min test with the copper heatspreader:

It permanently dissipates 7W without throttling and 68°C. max temperature.

Although the area around the CPU gets pretty hot:
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
Does not work: - ((

I'm thinking that I have a hardware problem probably on the board.

On the other hand, my microsd is also Samsung. I think it's original product because I bought Amazon directly.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00J2BSW9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He was going to buy a 128gb but I'll wait
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
(Just wanted to add the issue description for reference)

The clicks must be caused by the vibration motor, which only interacts with the Power and Windows capacitive button.

You already installed the Touchscreen controller update?
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
Intentionally I have not updated anything. I reinstalled the driver package and then let Windows Update work.

It is an update to Windows Update or I have to download it from somewhere?

Fix for Windows button issue?

Thank you for your interest in my problem.
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=403092]QtKiguis[/MENTION]

Yes, Fix for Windows button issue is the correct update.
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Confirmed with several people - flashing any of this bioses gives buzzing sound in type-c area. Re-flashing stock bios doesnt help. I hope a solution will arise soon. oh, one person said that reflashing stock - fixed buzzing. I ll try his bios.

---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 PM ----------

It could be specific device issue. My samsung EVO 64gb (non plus) card reads just fine and works just fine on both custom and stock bios. Try it anywhere else. Btw could be that you need to format your card
[Device Reviews and Information] makakiel:
pretty instresting! But I don't understand what you do . can you more explain ?
[Device Reviews and Information] Soliloquy:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION]

Just thought I'd check back in! Have come back from holiday nice and chilled out, and after a brief chat with the Cube store have opened up the unit and slightly modified both the docking connector attachment (just cleaned it out a little and popped a strip of thin insulating tape under the cable) and the heatsink (copper shim with arctic adhesive to the existing heatsink, x-23 paste between shim and cpu, 1mm arctic pad in the cpu recess and on the lower profile area of the heatsink, and 0.5 mm arctic pad in patches on the bare higher profile parts.

Rotate issue fixed, keyboard issues all fixed, no more crazy toggling or phantom inputs, and temps dropped at least twenty degrees, so I've upped it to 9W with no problems at all thus far.

While it remains a shame that it needed to be fixed, let's be fair I was always going to crack it open and pop in a shim anyway, so I'm philosophical about it, now. Thanks to you, Wootever, for the picture (and patience) as it made up my mind to get in there and get the muck out of it.

Now this thing is working properly I am content with the performance of the unit. While I would pause to recommend it to a casual user, I guess if you don't mind getting your hands dirty you can give it a nice boost!

If it helps confirm the sdcard issue, I have had no problems at all with the driver package supplied here by Wootever to fix the camera problems, and a 128GB Samsung Pro (legitimate retailer). It recognises on boot with no issue. I'm going to have a tinker with it to see if I can boot Remix OS off of it, so I'll chime back in if it won't start from it.
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
Well, fix up to date and the same problem. The truth is I'm desperate because I always have the tablet in sleep mode. I do not think it's good to leave it with the red LED and making noise inside. Besides the tablet used to stop charging at night but now I've found that if you spend several hours in sleep mode finally back out the red LED.

I recorded a video so that you may see my problem: https://youtu.be/MsICBfE2XMI

SO CUBE may be? They do not answer my question about the problem. I'll have to open a claim by aliexpress
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
It's an WiFi antenna from an old Fujitsu Amilo Notebook, i de-soldered the cables of both antennas and re-soldered the Cube i9 WiFi cable to the Fujitsu WiFi antenna.

[MENTION=2104031]Soliloquy[/MENTION]

Good to see that you got it figured out, i apologize for my previous harsh words.

It's a big difference if people actually come by looking for solutions (or providing support) instead of just cursing or blaming others.

[MENTION=403092]QtKiguis[/MENTION]

Thanks for the Video, at this stage you might have to open the device and check the power button cable.

Are all devices shown as working correctly on the device manager?
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
I'll be brave. And I take this opportunity to look at the cable microsd card haha

Thank you!
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
It's a design issue, it will always make a noise depending on utilization.

Don't make any false accusations if you have no clue what are you talking about, like on your previous post and most all of your posts on 4PDA.

Probably yes, those are simple USB contacts with 3.3V:
[Device Reviews and Information] QtKiguis:
Oh my god! I fixed the problem

And doing nothing. Well, just opening the tablet. And for that I have been very scared. But once opened, I removed the power cable protector, I checked that was properly connected and voila! the tablet working properly

Surely there was some bad contact or the cable was too bent. But now a 100% happy owner of a cube i9

Thanks, [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION], for your patience. I thank you very much. Have launched a donation for this and for your selfless work in this tablet
[Device Reviews and Information] legalizacion_24:
ooooo ? perfect .... that wifi module with Ac (2.4 and 5GHz) would be compatible ?????

Enviado desde mi SM-G928F mediante Tapatalk

---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

for example ????

http://www.ofeixin.com/English/Product/710465712.html

Enviado desde mi SM-G928F mediante Tapatalk
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=1416009]legalizacion_24[/MENTION]

Yes, indeed that could work. But unfortunately you will lose Bluetooth function, couldn't find a single combo chip with WiFi AC + BT.
[Device Reviews and Information] legalizacion_24:
Bluetooth really do not care, wifi ac if for my work

Enviado desde mi SM-G928F mediante Tapatalk
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Good that you can read 4pda. I let that **** above slip. Seriously, I am interested in benefits of this and that and that doesnt include that useless butt-hurt above. Here I am for that software. And it looks troublesome.

Again - people (from 4pda) confirm that after flashing bios, noises in type-c area appear - which they didn't have before. I wish to find reason for sudden buzzing (which I and ome other people DIDNT have when we received the tablet) and hope it is not your software, but all leads (or looks) there. I wish you tell us where exactly we are wrong and why your bios can't be the source of the problem. That's all.
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
Surely you are, that's why your first post in this thread is so elaborated.

That's impossible, the others are "confirming" this because they haven't noticed it beforehand, now you are making panic and try to blame me.

Check this thread: Tablet whine when charging via the USB-C port, i guess there is a certain connection and none of them has modified their Bios.

Edit:

The whine/noise is caused by cheap inductor/components, i noticed this on several chinese Core-M devices (PIPO W8 / Cube i7 / Cube i7 Stylus). This also has some kind of dispersion; some devices don't have this problem.
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
I will be happy to apologize, when the problem will be fixed (in any way) and the cause is not bios.

We have a charge port next to the buzzing area. Could that be connected?

Maybe the implementation of type c wasnt best and there is some trouble there? Maybe some type-c driver working incorrectly?

Edit - I see. do you have any type c things? I wonder if connecting anything power-hungry will fix the issue. There is close-looking issue with displays on some other vendor tablets with buzzing sound of the same type. When screen power consumption increases - with brightness, for example, buzzing disapears. I wish to try the same thing here. Will get my type-c stuff...SOMEDAY. I hope. Will test..
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=5415549]Sliderpro[/MENTION]

I can confirm the USB C charging noise, it's pretty uncomfortable. It seems to require at least 40W for a correctly charge.

xeyueoa also reported this problem:

The "regular" coil noise always increase under heavy utilization, i guess the inductor getting more stressed causing this noise.

I will disassemble the cover and try to define which component is causing it.

Edit:

By the way, the BIOS is not called "modified" without a reason, there is even a disclaimer in the batch file.

The modified part is now a bit more highlighted, so hopefully everyone will understand this is NOT an official BIOS.

Edit2:

It seems around those two areas, so those inductor could be the culprit.

Edit3:

Now, i completely erased the whole BIOS chip and flashed an older original BIOS.

It's still the same noise and since i already noticed this kind of noise on other unmodified Core-M devices: this is a hardware bug/fault.

Coil noise Wikipedia / Coil noise YouTube
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
So basically the only way to fix it is to fix that cheaper coil\other component and do that "manually"?
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=5415549]Sliderpro[/MENTION]

Unfortunately yes, although it might be possible that certain settings can increase or decrease the intensity.

-> CPU Configuration:
-> * Set Configurable TDP Boot Mode to UP

This will set the maximum CPU TDP to 7.5W and will cause more stress for the inductor, setting this to NORMAL will limit it back to 4.5W, of course this will decrease overall performance by a lot.

It seems that even the Surface Pro 4 Core-M has this issue: Reddit #1 / Reddit #2 / Reddit #3

It's a regular hardware fault with a great diversity in rate and intensity.

Some people might be not able to hear it, because they ear can't process a certain frequency range.

Edit:

@ veras on 4PDA

The placeholder beside the ram is probably intended for emmc storage.
[Device Reviews and Information] Xof_:
I got this fixed by resetting Windows, for some reason it worked after that.
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
Original Post:

I have a spare Intel Wireless NGFF card, unfortunately the second M.2 connector is B keyed so it won't fit.

Well, the interesting part is that there are obviously only two contacts which would be not connected:

The "missing pins" are 16 and 18:

Which is according to the Intel datasheet only GND and LED#2 (Bluetooth LED).

Now the question is: does someone know if this has a chance to work if i cut the B key contact?

Edit:

Since even a normal SSD isn't working on the second NGFF connector, it's probably not fully assembled, so i guess it's pretty pointless to try anything else than a NGFF LTE modem.
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Second ssd doesnt make much sense anyway.. but nice to know
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
Some GPU benchmark scores compared with the Surface Pro 4 Core-M:

Surface Pro 4: (9W TDP)

Sky Diver 1.0: 3020

Fire Strike 1.1: 740

Cube i9: (7W TDP, -50mV)

Sky Diver 1.0: 2954

Fire Strike 1.1: 701

The GPU was at 56°C max, but the hotspot at the backcover reached 45°C.

The copper heatspreader keeps the CPU cool but at the cost of higher Case temperatures.
[Device Reviews and Information] android@100%:
Hi Guys,

This is a great thread for Cube i9 Owners, Thank you [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION] for that.

Guys i need some urgent help. My Cube i9 just stopped booting, It boots to bios only, SSD is not detected in Bios , it just boots to startup.nsh screen, Upon exiting the screen it boots to Bios again.

it happened when i turned on the Tab in the evening, Windows booted normally , after login it froze, nothing was working at this point, i shut down the tab by holding the power button. restarted and tab booted to startup.nsh. Attached usb KB and wrote Exit ( Google told me to to that) it booted normally and after another reboot the tablet refused and is in the above state.

i have informed the seller about this, i still have 25 days to Confirm the order on Aliexpress.

Please help me in this regard, And English isnt my 1st language.

Thankyou

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[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=6272942]android@100%[/MENTION]

You can try a Bios reset. Power off the tablet and press the reset button for ~15seconds.

Alternatively you can enter the BIOS with the usb keyboard by pressing DEL on power up -> press F3 -> press F4 -> reboot.

Edit:

If the SSD isn't correctly detected from time to time it might be a connection or SSD issue.

Have you tried to check the SSD health via CrystalDiskInfo?

Otherwise it might be necessary to open the device and check if the SSD became loose somehow.
[Device Reviews and Information] android@100%:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION]

Thankyou for prompt reply, I have already tried that, Just did again after your message, doesnt helped. SSD isnt showing up in Bois. I think its the SSD which caused the problem.

On boot it stays longer on Chinese boot logo. Boots to startup.nsh screen with Map:cannot find required map name.

2nd boot with same screen and with Device Mapping Table. Don't know what to do.
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=6272942]android@100%[/MENTION]

Try to disassemble the device, a simple SSD re-assembly could possibly fix this problem.
[Device Reviews and Information] android@100%:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION] . Already tried that aswell.
[Device Reviews and Information] tkato:
Hey guys, got my i9 yesterday and have been fiddling with it, installed the modified bios and did a reset to windows, Im having one annoying problem, sometimes the tablet just wont wake up from sleep, I have to reset it to make it work again.. can anybody help me?

Update:

I think it has something to do with hibernation, not sleep. replicated the problem by assigning hibernation to the power button.

Update2:

So the problem is when I hibernate it won't come on if I press the power button (or anything else), it will give me haptic feedback and the red led would sometimes flash for a moment, but otherwise It'll stay powered off, tried disabling SSD power saving on bios, will report later if it helps.
[Device Reviews and Information] evgen2004:
Wootever, could you please advise the length of screws for your latest thermal mod?

Thank you.
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
[MENTION=370725]evgen2004[/MENTION]

I updated the post, fixed some typos and added some more information.
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Nice to see such low temperatures. Too bad we have to do it ourselves
[Device Reviews and Information] Wootever:
Tested the Notebookcheck.com BattleFront benchmark on low quality with the DIY Heatspreader:

Settings used: 7W TDP, -50mV, 100% Brightness, WiFi/BT active.

Frame rate was between 20-22fps with peaks down to 19fps and up to 23fps.

Max. core temperature was 66°C with -20W max. consumption.

Case peak temperatures: Back 53°C, Front 43°C

No GPU/CPU throttling besides the TDP limitation but intense case temperatures.

The copper heatspreader works pretty well, but +6W TDP is probably too much without proper heatpipes.

Update:

Settings used: 6W TDP, -60mV, 100% Brightness, WiFi/BT active.

Frame rate average was 2fps less than previously.

Max. core temperature was 61°C with -16W average consumption.

Case (absolute peak) temperatures: Back 51°C, Front 40°C (ambient temperatures were slightly higher)
[Device Reviews and Information] Sliderpro:
Next generation chips will probably play these kind of games at 30+ fps. Especially if paired with ddr4 ram
[Device Reviews and Information] colony13th:
I got the same promblem ,confirm it has something to do with hibernation.
[Device Reviews and Information] st1ckyn1ck3l:
Tonight while using the Edge browser, the screen on my i9 went totally white. The only thing I could do was power it down. Now when I try to power it back on, the screen doesn’t light. The Cube BIOS logo isn’t displayed, and never comes on. The tablet does boot, and I can access it using remote desktop. It appears to be running well, but the screen never turns on. Another weird thing is that the brightness button on the notifications shade is now missing (when accessing the tablet remotely). Any ideas, or suggestions as to what to look into? I’ve already done a BIOS reset (using the reset button).
[Device Reviews and Information] tkato:
Hey, so i've been testing it since my last update, it seems to be working for me, all I did was disabling power saving for the ssd in the bios. now, when it goes into hibernation pushing done the power button for 3 seconds will wake it up properly (or the red led turns on), restoring the saved state.

---------- Post added at 07:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 AM ----------

try reinstalling the drivers and opening the tablet to check the screen's connectors, best case it's software or a loose ribbon.