yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Elephone P8000] kevvyboy:
Good advice indeed!

By all means install it via the flash tool, seems to be fine that way. Mine was boot-looping after OTA, but flashed fine with the tool, even with root.
[Elephone P8000] Bradco:
thanks ;) I just ask the question beacaus many people have problem with OTA update on elephone p8000
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] slovaky22:
good day.

Looking for twrp Recovery 2.8.7.0 for Note1. N7000. (CM 12.1).

Where can I find TWRP recovery for note 1. I Use room cm.12.1 . or Where can I download the recovery.

well thank you
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] slovaky22:
I got it ... I found him..

Thank you all
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] fulltank:
Link pls ....
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] burduli:
There are only AT&T and T-Mobile versions available at TWRP official site. You should try PhilZ Touch recovery ;)
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] nokiamodeln91:
There is one made by bauner for cm12.1
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] burduli:
Yes but CWM does great job also
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
Yes, I did. And i prepared a HOW-TO. See snapshots, and pdf in the attachments..

Now the USB have power. I do not get unmounted USB anymore. Maybe you want to try with more current (2A instead of 1 A) but it might damage your USBs.

--update--

Bear in mind that with the current setting, the USBs will have power even when the unit is off. Pendrives and so on will have no problems, as they will shutdown when unmounted by the unit. But if you leave something plugged, it will be consuming battery of your car. It has 2 sides: if you want to charge your phone, you won't need to have the car on. Just leave it there. But, if you forget something there plugged in, in may drain your battery.

If you want a non-permanent USB, you just have to change the pin from which the 12Vin is taken. Instead of taking the Bat(yellow), you must take the ACCin(red).

I hope you like it !!!
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
Thanks. No, it is very general and should be applicable to all units. The main thing is:

- find a source of 12V from the unit (the closest one to the USBs is the harness socket that is on the unit, i.e. the big socket with the fuse). You also need the GN to close the circuit (also on the socket)

- tap this source to the converter to 5V

- tap the 5V to the Vin of USBs. (this wiring is universal for all USBs)

I cannot say all units have the exact wiring of the harness, but it would be very weird if they do not. As a rule of thumb, if the Batt(yellow) and Ground(Black) wires of your unit are in the same positions as mine (see pic below), you can follow the HOW TO and it will work. If the position of these two wires in the socket of your unit is not as mine, then you just have to be careful in figuring out which pin it is in the board (you will see that the pins at the bottom of the board are mirrored with respect to the socket/wire diagram), but the picture I post should be enough for every one to find out their pin.

[IMG="wiring diagram"]http://imageshack.com/a/img540/5341/WquD2G.png[/IMG] [IMG="Wiring diagram"]http://imageshack.com/a/img910/5076/jGh81G.png[/IMG]
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
I also thought about that, how to prevent eventual high tension on the Vin of the USB that may burn the plugged drives. At first I wanted to take the current from the fuse, so it is prevented although at 10A.... so in the end quite useless.

But then, I realized that since there's the converter between the 12V and the USB and it cannot output more than 5V 1A, in case of high voltage the converter will cope with it and in the worst case scenario the converter will be burnt. So, I think I am on the safe side here. If one wants to be safer, you could add a fuse between the converter and the USB Vin.

I am not an expert either, so if anyone says this is total bullsh*t, I will try to fix it :silly:
[MTCB Hardware Development] TooBusy:
I didn't look at the front page for a while, but I just had a quick look and noticed that it has a link to this post (#8383). It would be good to include a little bit more information.

The above applies to no-name cams purchased with the HU. They are not high quality and can record only at 640x480 even with DailyRoads Voyager. CarRecorder can only use 640x480 with any camera. However, better quality cameras can record with higher resolutions when used with DailyRoads Voyager or another app. I tested Logitech C930e: very good on 720p, and it can even record with 1080p, but with about half the frame rate of 720p, so 720p seems to be the best option.

------------------------------------------------------------

Also the front page "3G USB Dongle not working properly" has a link to post #7614. I don't see why.

---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 AM ----------

I see this solution similar to two batteries connected in parallel. The current will go from one to another, unless they are exactly the same. In which direction? When no USB device is connected, and the original source is protected with a Schottky diode, and the DC-DC regulator probably has something similar, there should be no current in either direction. Why not check it? It's more complex when a USB device is connected. From which source will it draw the power? This depends on the internal impedance of both sources, as well as the impedance of the USB device.

Regardless, it looks like it's working for those who made the modification, so it's probably OK. I'd rather use the DC-DC regulator to power a powered USB hub.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
It used to contain a link to aliexpress with DC-DC converter and a 3G dongle. i think Malaysk must have removed it.
[MTCB Hardware Development] patagonia1:
In that case wound´t be better to completely cut the original USB power and use only a 2A new supply for example? the same as disconnecting the internal MIC to the BT.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
I did that because I have a cable from the back of the unit to the center console. I made a hole in the console where I installed the USB socket. It looks OEM and I like it. But in the previous working conditions, it was useless.

[IMG="usb"]http://imageshack.com/a/img537/498/LAdf3a.jpg[/IMG]

I do not want to have a cable running on the car from the lighter and so on. So, the idea was to fix the USB I already installed on the console. It was easy, and it works.

Probably is not the best thing for everyone, but in my case it worked :)
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
I did not think about that. It seems a good idea, so you prevent any overload. I think 2A is too much. AFAIK, USB2 can work from 0.5-1A. USB3 to 1A (also Apple chargers work at 1A). i do not know what would happen with 2A if you do not have a hub which splits your current in 2 or 3 USBs.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TooBusy:
That sounds better to me. And you don't need to cut anything. Connect the cable to the unit, the other end USB female connector. Test it and report back. You might get many followers.

---------- Post added at 01:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:46 AM ----------

2A would be the max. How much is used, depends on how much is needed by connected devices.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
This is something I did not consider, but of which I was aware. The USB led turns off when the HU stops. Either it is only on when the USB is mounted, or the power is always on. I will try today and see if the phone charges all the time. In that case, I would just need to sold it to the ACC. Ultimately I could use the red/ACC to open close a relay that would be connected to the yellow/BAT cable.

why ?

I don't exactly know where to put the diode. Should it go between the USBsocket and the internal circuit that powers the USB socket ?

It will require major mods. I maybe would prefer desconnecting the USB somehow and just power it from the loom socket as TooBusy suggested.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pakidermo5000:
Well, atm it is not a big deal to have a permanent hot USB. I do not leave anything plugged in the car so as to avoid robberies. I could examine the PCB and see where the 12V pins go, and then tap it frominner parts of the circuit. But, I am not willing to take the HU off again... I have it secured with a screw, so it means I have to remove the glovebox and everything to remove the HU. However, I doubt there will be any problem with my current installation (even without the diode) as the converter will not output more than 5V 1A. If something happens or I modify it, I will let you know. :)
[MTCB Hardware Development] R4D3N:
Best and safest way to power the USB port is to make yourself a powered USB hub.

You either buy a normal Powered USB Hub that has a 5v adapter and and a DC-DC converter from 12v to 5v 3A, to power it or a regular USB Hub non powered and make it powered.

Parts needed:

-regular USB 2.0 Hub

-DC-DC 12v to 5v 3A converter

Converter: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Con...785?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418e981131

1. Open the USB hub.

2. Locate the GND and VCC cables (+5V) .

3. Cut ONLY the original VCC (+5V ) that comes from the cable that plugs to the unit.

4. To the GND pin, solder the - cable that comes from the converter

5. To the VCC pin, solder the + cable that comes from the converter

6. Assemble back the usb hub.

7. Power the converter. You can take power directly from the main harness of the radio: + from the red cable, and - directly from from the case of the unit or from the black wire.
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
guys I have been researching this for a while I want to pull the trigger, can you please let me know if what I am planning make sense?

Using the power from the back of the cigaret lighter I get a 12V to feed into this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...883693?hash=item58a544fc2d:g:augAAOxy9ERSQ9HE

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...005051?hash=item4d289f383b:g:YggAAOSwaNBUc~f4

from here I will feed the 5v 10amp to the USB hub:

I preffer this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-P...029979?hash=item567a7a689b:g:FiwAAOSwu4BVvFWS

or maybe this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-Hig...844946?hash=item1a0947b892:g:F1MAAOSwHmhV8y71

the USB hub will plug in to the USB port of the Joying head unit,

I will use 24 to 20-AWG USB cables and

draw one to my phone (galaxy s5) by the driver door

and draw 2 more microUSB inside the cabin for passengers and other stuff inside the electronics.

maybe 10amp is over kill but I would rather have more than less.

1) Does anyone see any problem with my plan?

2) Any idea which USB hub and voltage step down I should chose?

I know USB 3 hub is not needed but it does not have any cables and I am hoping it as a bit of better internal compared to the USB 2
[MTCB Hardware Development] superbass311:
Has anyone found a usb hub with car plug adapter plug I can purchase extra? It's all gonna stay in my glove box and have no problem running power cord.. I just can't find one anywhere that tells me the external power plug size so I can buy a car adapter... I keep getting usb camera unplugged
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
I am just going to open up the hub and solder the feed.
[MTCB Hardware Development] superbass311:
I'm on my way to buy a hub and car adapter I'll let you know the outcome

---------- Post added at 12:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

I need to find our if dash cam and flash drive can work on the same hub...
[MTCB Hardware Development] superbass311:
*FIX

Just so everyone knows my usb camera unplugged kept happening because it could not power that and the thumb drive at the same time. That's why it seemed random. A powered usb hub fixed this issue.
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
can you include some pictures of your hub and power adapter and how you did it?

or at least the part number of the hub and power source..

that would be very helpful

Thank you!
[MTCB Hardware Development] superbass311:
Powered USB Hub

This is what I did to make a powered USB Hub work my Android Car Radio.

Let me first start off by saying that I have a Eonon GA2114 7 Inch. with the DVR Camera R0003. It is made for this radio. Both links are here.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151859989192?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161598715633

I bought the hub and checked the input voltage on the hub. All hubs will be different. After finding out the input voltage i bought a multi car adapter and took it to radioshack to get the correct input head. here are the pictures below.

I didnt list the parts because depending on the hub the adapters will be different. but at least you get the idea.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pounce:
Maybe something like this:

http://plugable.com/products/usb2-hub4bc
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
Yes I saw that.

Any BC1.2 charging Hub should do it.

I found another one that accepts 12V input directly so I might skip the down step voltage converter.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pounce:
Nice. Got a link?
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
the seller says I can feed it 12-24v

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4S06JE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
[MTCB Hardware Development] pounce:
Looks pretty good, but this little bit is a little concerning:

Maybe its a mistake
[MTCB Hardware Development] jbleasdale:
Is the fact that it is a USB 3 hub a problem?

USB 3 devices cause the MTCB head units to crash - is this also true with hubs?
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
I will test it out and let you know.

did not know that USB 3 is a problem, what is your source?
[MTCB Hardware Development] jbleasdale:
It came up a few times on the Joying specific thread.

I tested it first hand and could reproduce the lock-ups when using a USB3 flash drive and a USB3 external hard drive.

I gave up on USB3 at that point.

Do let us know how you get on with the hub though.
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
My MOKO USB 3 Hub came today

USB 3 HUB works 100% fine!

DVR works on it

Galaxy S4 charges at 880ma sometimes dropping down to 680ma

If directed to the HU the S4 can only take 460ma

ipad air 2 connects to the head unit and charges but I could not measure the amperage

Ggalaxy s5 pulled 1000ma on the BC1.2 hub vs 460ma direct usb to HU

as for the input the test was done using wall power adapter with 12v 3amp

I will test 15v from a converter to check if the unit can handle being connected directly to the car battery... a bit scared to this test ...any suggestion on this? I like the hub so far and I do not want to blow it.

again the 2.1amp dumb chargers will charge your phone faster at around 1200mA to 1800mA but you wont be connected to the Head unit.

for android phone shorting the D+ and D- on the hub port should achieve that.

-----------

Update:

Attached the MOKO USB Hub directly to 15v of DC power directly and it passed the test.

So I would recommend this little gadget

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4S06JE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

no need for any converter just feed it directly from your cars 12V+ and negative and connect the other end to the USB plug of the head unit and you have USB 3 fully powered device for 17$

------

Update 2

All installed in car

the 4 port USB hub works great.

2 Micro USB cables for phone connection

1 extension USB an empty spot

1 DVR cam
[MTCB Hardware Development] Tumke32:
I bought the same USB hub like you did. Did you use the same cable with adapter when you connected the hub to your car, and did you modify the original power cable of the hub? Is it possible that you make a picture of how you connected your hub to the 12v cable?

thanks
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
sorry it is installed inside the dash and I am not planning to open it up for a while at least

you can cut the power plug from the adapter it comes with or any other that fits

connect the postive of the car to the cable that feeds the internal and the negative to the round part around it like most DC adapters
[MTCB Hardware Development] robertut:
Some users may have limited success when using external powered hubs. That can be because:

- the externally powered hub doesn't have a diode protection to avoid back-feeding the head unit while car is turned off (this can cause problems on certain cars, like inability to open dorrs keylessly)

- the externally powered hub doesn't provide really 5V on the USB ports, it provides a bit less, like 4.8V. This is not enough for 3G modems

- USB contacts can become loose, especially in the car. So although there may be 5V on the USB port, by the time it reaches to the device at the end of the USB cable it can drop to as low as 4.5V, which is surely not enough

To overcome these issues, possible solutions:

- use externally powered USB hubs, which have higher external power adapters (like the hub itself needs 12V adapter directly). These most likely handle the diode protection too.

- if using self-made powered hubs, and adding diodes manually don't forget that each diode reduces voltage by 0.4-0.7 volts, so if you insert a diode in the 5V path, you'll only get 4.5V output at the hub ports, which is not enough for the modem

- if using manually added 12V->5V converters, I suggest to use step-down converters which are adjustable. Install the whole circuitry and diodes etc., and measure the voltage at the very end, with the modem, or any other consumers connected (USB Hard Disk, dash camera, etc). Adjust carefully to about 5.1-5.2V output at the very end.

- note that as may devices you connect in parrallel to the hub, the voltage can get lower and lower. You need at least 5.0V for them to work correctly, and under load.

- applying 5.1 or 5.2V (that's only 0.1 or 0.2V above 5V) will not hurt devices. It will provide you extra voltage safety if contacts become worse in humid weather.
[MTCB Hardware Development] ffwd4490:
Maybe someone can shed some light?

I purchased http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4S06JE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 which doctorman sugested. Before cutting any wires on the hubs power supply, I figured i would give it a test run by actually powering the hub with 100v extension cord from my garage. Basically powering the hub independent of the car. From there i plugged in the the usb cable from the hub to either of the HU rear usb cables. No joy..... The Hu did not see any usb sticks I plugged in to the hub. Took the hub back inside and tested it on my pc where it works as advertised. Is there something I need to change in the settings of the HU for it to recognize the usb stick? What am I missing?
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
100v?

as I said

I tested it with voltages from 9-10v up to 17v and the hub handled well
[MTCB Hardware Development] ffwd4490:
Sorry typo. What i meant to say is that i plugged the hub into my house 120 volts AC using the provided ac/dc adapter, so as not to cut the wire from the provided adapter until i saw everything working. But the HU does not recognize any thumb drives that are plugged into the hub.
[MTCB Hardware Development] doctorman:
that is not my experience...

not sure why it is not working.
[MTCB Hardware Development] the-unknown:
just bought the hub you showed in this thread. with one usb stick its working great, but can't get a second or third to work. in the folder mnt there are 4 usb controlers, in storage there are still 2. if i plug in one more device, there comes the message the stick is connected, but i can't use it in a app

do you have an idea? or is android 5 the problem? then i will go back to kitkat
[Member-Found Deals] pierscorpio:
If nobody has noticed today is China Singles' Day, almost every Chinese shop has smartphones with nice discounts, the best ones I've seen are on Aliexpress, Geekbuying and Gearbest.

I don't want to post the links because I don't know if it's against the rules.

Are you guys going to buy anything?
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] riteshsanap:
I have an Lenovo K3 Note mobile phone but it shows a Caution/ warning sign with a red dot/spot on the right bottom side.

The mobile is working just fine and there are also no errors or notification.

Image :

hxxp://oi63.tinypic.com/246rmtk.jpg

replace XX with TT
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] riteshsanap:
Any one ?
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] mfrazzz:
Reserved 3

How to change Keyboard for other languages and layouts

This thread has information for changing the keyboard to work for other layouts.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] mfrazzz:
Reserved 4

Credits

I would like to thank the following in help (directly and indirectly) with XDA Mobile 6:

Faria for providing the initial ROM Kitchen that got me cooking

anichillus for the fantastic Hyper Core ROM Kitchen which was exclusively used in the production of this ROM

Dr Puttingham for the guides, information he has provided to all of us

Molski for having a nice tutorial on various cooking tools and providing easy access to info at http://www.molski.biz

mattk_r for inspiration and pushing the envelope and for the fantastic set of OEM packages

Famewolf for constantly pointing me to new apps, new versions, and posts about features like BlueTooth DUN to add into the rom. You could almost call this XM6r3FW ;)

Those that took the time to help beta test XM6 Release 3 (Rudi, Pablo, Moby, Jorge, JL, Tommy, Shane, Ben, and a few others I'm sure I left out (sorry)). We worked out a number of issues with a nice long beta test! I think all the beta testers (myself included) are sick of flashing, and I think I caused all of them at least one locked up phone after flashing... You want a cure for Flashing addiction? This beta test sure helped most of us... :D

Everyone that installed and gave feedback and support on the other XDA Mobile 6 threads

Everyone that I thanked in my other ROM releases! :)
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] mfrazzz:
Final Reserve note

This post intentionally left blank for possible future use :)
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] TauRho:
it finally happened!

you did it....again! :eek:

great "hard" work, Mike!

Tommy
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] thunda_chunky:
excellent!!! ive been waiting for this rom to be released for a while! downloading now and will post my findings later. happy birthday to me =) {seriously its my Bday}
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] PURESKILLZZZ:
I know I asked and begged but it was worth the wait . I just was hungry mate. MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE.......
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] KGET:
Thanks Mfrazz!

been using 2a for about a week. Can't wait to flash 3, but I will have to it's 1 am....so it will have to wait till tommorow. Downloading now to beat the rush.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] famewolf:
Awww..nothing wrong with flashing at 1 in the morning (You are on eastern time like me...mfrazzz is 2 hours BEHIND)...I've been doing it for last two weeks practically every other night. ;)
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] terribletrouble:
Up and Running

Mfrazz

Flashed and running, thanks man! Been waiting a while for this one....
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] famewolf:
*ding* You get the prize for speed flasher. From 12:30 to 01:19 am to download, flash and come back to post.

^..^
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] terribletrouble:
Told you....

I was waiting for this one... Time is of the essence...
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] Pumpiron579:
NBD to XDA.........will report tommorrow
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] magicer:
Downloading

downloading, then flash the new

thank you all
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] support:
Mirror

Mirror

XM6r3 Full Version

http://rapidshare.com/files/50488568/XM6r3.zip

Size 54012 KB

XM6r3 Lite Version

http://rapidshare.com/files/50488572/XM6r3Lite.zip

Size 54012 KB
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario ROM Development] kwanice:
oh yes oh yes oh yes!!!

GREAT !

i download and flash it now!

:D

thanks again!