yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Did most or all of these settings work prior to you flashing IQ Navi? If the problems exist regardless, I'm just guessing here... but it sounds like your unit is abruptly shutting down instead of entering slot or booting down normally. This might explain why you could be losing any stored settings if it is shutting down improperly. From what I've read, if this is the case it could be that the unit is not physically connected correctly to the ACC line. Or it could be software related. Did you make a back up of your original unit files as stated on the first post? Have you tried a factory reset? Would you happen to know your original firmware/MCU build numbers? It might be possible for me or someone to find the exact one you had. (I found mine floating around out there...) As for the OBD adapter. I had the same issue as you. The fix for me was changing the bluetooth connect password to 0000 instead of 1234. I know there is also a bug where some unit do no connect to OBD adapters unless the adapter actually broadcasts with OBD starting in the title. And last have you checked the "Extra Settings" Option in Settings and taken a look at the "Config" or something option. There should be a list of features that are either checked or unchecked. Would you mind posted a screen shot if possible of what it states?

---------- Post added at 10:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:58 PM ----------

Oh, I was wondering if anyone had any info or experience with a couple things.

From the start/previous Android units/firmware, I have been able to using my steering wheel controls for volume/previous/next/mute/answer/end calls. But with all of the programs/apps I've tried that come with the firmware I can never seem to get them to allow me to re-map my steering controls. I've read a lot of forums and videos. It will just not accept input when I select the option to map. Even clearing everything beforehand. Nothing seems set in the app(s) to begin with anyways. Am I missing a wire connection somewhere that I might have overlooked? I just find it weird that my buttons work without programming for their stock uses. I do have a VW. Maybe I need to turn off a certain module in my car using Vag Com....

Last question,

One of only things that kinda bugs me is the notification bar and drop down. Would anyone know of an app or Xposed module that would allow me to customize this a little more? I missed the power button that was in the upper panel like on my MTCB unit/with reboot options. Also having the ability to customize/or have the quick tile settings on one single page along with the notifications.. I guess kinda like the newer Samsung ROMs...Don't really care if it looks like those, just would like the functionality... Oh! Especially in regards to an easy access brightness slider. The normal kitkat gesture of fast/slowly swiping left or right on the notification bar do not seem to be integrated.

As always, thank you for any help or advice :)
[Android Head-Units] sambacha:
I remember once someone mentioning youtube sound quality isn't that good when compared to the music app that comes with it. I didn't give it attention at first because all apps sounded really bad with no amps or aftermarket speakers. But now that I added amps, sub, aftermarket speakers and a dsp (tuned using the music app and Normal eq setting). Youtube doesn't sound good at all (hardly any bass or mid-bass).

Something tells me the EQ is only used for the music app but not other apps like YouTube. If that's the case, does anyone know what the EQ settings for it to be OFF? So that I can tune things to work the same for all apps?
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
Thanks for the reply wigglitz .

Unfortunately I was inpatient and did not back up my existing system but I did photograph my about page. I keep getting an error when I try to upload images on the xda app but I will post as soon as I get home.

Apart from the on screen message the other issues were present from stock. My unit does a full reboot everytime I start the engine, even if it has already booted with the key in the ignition. I drive a 2008 European Honda civic and my unit it a generic double din, there are no specific ones for my model of car. The factory Cd player used to reset when I started the engine so I think the reboot is a limitation with the car itself although it would be nice if there was a way around it.

Thanks for your help.
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
Here are the screen shots.

I've also found this mod on you tube that I'm considering as it will stop the unit restarting when i start the car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtd6dAwq3QY

Also is there anyway to change the stock radio app and stock EQ app to the ones from the IQ NAVI Rom. That way i could use the EQ with the ability to save my settings, I've also tried changing the Bluetooth pass code for the ODB adaptor but that did not resolve the issue.
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
I have now tried a 4.5.9 update i found on the Russian forum but i get the same message and my Bluetooth does not work.

I'm really struggling at this point. it was very foolish of me not to backup my original ROM.
[Android Head-Units] petro_ionut:
I have installed iqnavi but my problem is that it's pairing obd2 adapter without pin, but some apps need that to work!
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Does your bluetooth adapter's name broadcast with ELM or OBD when looking on the pairing screen?

I mentioned before that I have heard of units not wanting to connect unless the device bluetooth name starts with OBD.

I use an OBDLink adapter. When I pair it, I have OCD so what I usually do is scan for it, once it lists the adapter I long press on it, then I have 3 options, cancel/okay/"device_name", I just do this twice clicking on okay, then again with my device name. Only of the options usually says paring success. Not sure if you have already tried this or if it will work. Just kinda throwing things out there just in case they might help.
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
My adapter shows as ODBII , I long press and it shows the 3 options, device name and OK both say pair failed.

At this point there is only 1 rom I can find that works but it still has the water mark. Does anyone know how to remove it?

Is there a way to extract apps from the IQ Navi rom is is it not that simple?

Thanks for the help.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Not sure about extracting apps from IQ Navi. I can see if I can find the Navi system apps somewhere online to download.

The RedMOD apps seem actually pretty decent on the 4PDA.

You would just need to backup the system file being replaced, place the new apk, set root permissions to file 644 (rw-r - r-) and reboot.

It's always risky doing such things, but I'm sure you know. I'll let you know if I find those IQ Navi apps.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
I can't remember or find anything regarding if you flashed your MCU at all? If you go to the about device screen and click the MCU version 3 times, what pops up? According to other sites the "VW-OBD(RZC)-13mcu" is universal for cars. I am not sure if you have found this out or already know this, but. For example, your MCU that you posted pictures of "5.3.18-98-20-E50201-160406" is assigned for a Honda. MCU Version: 5.3.18, revision 98 and your car model identifier which would be 20 for Honda.

Not sure if I'm even helping anymore or just ranting. I'll shut up for now sorry lol.
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
Yes that makes sense, when I first got the unit I noticed it had an option in extra settings to change the MCU and one of them was for Honda CIVIC. I knew it was for the American version but I changed it anyway on the off chance of getting some extra vehicle integration. I can easily change it back to the VW one but will that make any difference to my issues?

Also, I have found that replacing the steering wheel control in the priv apps folder can remove the water mark, but unfortunately I do not have a replacement that will remove the watermark.

I currently have 4.5.8 flashed and my wifi again does not work. This is leading me to believe that my wifi chip is only compatible with versions 4.5.9 and up and I'm thinking the latest IQ Navi could be based of an earlier version. Does this make sense?

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] Remiguel:
I read somewhere, that you need to root your system to remove this watermark. :(
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
On the 4.5.10 ROM i can root and replace the steering wheel control app in the Priv app folder. The problem is i need to replace the file with the same app fro a Top-way Rom (my unit is a top-way). At the moment i have installed V4.5.3_20151027_TW2_R16T from the first post in this thread. This Rom boots and DOES NOT have the water mark. Unfortunately WIFI is not working for me on any versions lower than 4.5.9. If i could extract the steering wheel control app from the Priv App folder i would be able to use it to replace the one in the 4.5.10 rom and would have a working rom with no water mark.

The problem is Kingoroot does not work without wifi and my wifi does not work on this rom so i can not access the file i need. Very frustrating.
[Android Head-Units] Txori82:
Sorry for asking again but I don't found it.

How can I make PowerAmp default music app?

And somebody from IQ Navy is in this forum? I'll be interested on buying the rom because I have seen that my HU is sold by IQ Navy, is the IQ NAVI T44-1105C. (I've sent an e-mail but no answer)

Thank you very much.
[Android Head-Units] samm000:
Hi,

is there a 5.1 rom for the mcu 5.3.18-7-10-650201-160220?

or how can i upgrade to min 4.4.4?

i have now 4.4.2 Navi IQ and i'm experience problem with the rom.

the biggest problem i have is that the steeringwheel controls not always work like they should.

cheers
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
I have spoke to the creator of the IQ Navi rom, he assures me that the latest version of the rom will work with my wifi but he does not upload it to the 4PDA forum. I am hoping to get the latest version 0.1.293 from him.
[Android Head-Units] Manu Berlin:
Hello there!

That is my first post here. I've already read all 500 posts - really interesting. :good:

My HU is almost perfect just three things to make it perfect:

First thing: I've a Volkswagen Passat B7 (2013) with a remote on my steering wheel. It works really well but I want to adjust the one button. I've tried to do that with the application steering wheel. It doesn't work at all.

Here my approach:

1. Closed radio app

2. Open App (steering wheel)

3. Press start

4. Mark a function, like HOME

5. Press the button on the steering wheel.

Nothing happen!! As soon I click the button (the micro under the volume button) the HU goes on mute.

Any ideas I would really appreciate that.

2. I would like to change the boot animation (shining android logo)

I tried to find the boot animation with FX File Explorer. No chance the only one I got is the IQ Navi animation

How can I update the boot anmiation?

3. When I am in reverse gear normaly it must show me the PDC Display, but now it show me the Reverse Camera and tells me NO Signal and no PDC Display.

How can I disable the camera and only made the PDC visible?

Thank you in advance and best regards

---------- Post added at 01:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:13 PM ----------

One more thing I've noticed. My launcher offer me to add the Radio as a widget but as soon I added it an error message appears: "Problem with loading widget". Any suggestion to fix that?
[Android Head-Units] Remiguel:
I'm not in front of my HU, but If I recall well, it is in in settings/Key settings/Android Keys

Tomorrow I will have a look to give you the exact location ;)

I've done a factory reset and delete the data of the music app in /data/data. The Music app was working forward and backward again. As soon I press the random setting backward button stopped working :(

Nobody notice that Strange behavior?

I found a video in the Russian forum, that illustrates exactly the behavior I'm facing

https://yadi.sk/i/-xb1HjWxr4Ebm

The solution they left is setting the cycle or repeat function at the same time (I'll test it tomorrow)
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
I've got my unit running well with IQ Navi, but I really want to not have the radio app launching on boot, does anyone know a way to prevent this?
[Android Head-Units] Remiguel:
My HU with IQ Navi start the last native application I was using before turning off the radio. If I was using Poweramp the desktop is shown.

In the Music application, I've tested the tip to leave the repeating or cycle function "on" and the backward butons is working again :good:

Music application is starting quicker after cleaning preferences and cache. The application start slower than Poweramp, maybe because I have 2000 songs/files in the same folder. When I start with few songs with a smaller USB, Music app is starting almost instantly after pressing the music button

Another feature I forgot to mention that IQ Navi brings: you can adjust the guiding lines dimension (for backup camera) to fit better with your car. You need a backup camera without these lines

[MENTION=1862039]Txori82[/MENTION]

The path to change the default applications is settings/Key settings/Android Keys.
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
I think the auto start on the radio maybe part of the MCU because I can here the static of the radio before android has fully loaded up. It's frustrating to Stat the car and be greeted by static.
[Android Head-Units] hgupta:
Impressed that you got a hold of him! Do you know what the differences are with the latest rom?

Also, I would like to donate money to him if it helps continue development, especially updates to the ROM. What's the best way to reach out to him? ( I tried to PM him, but can't read the Russian Captcha to register on the forum)
[Android Head-Units] LuketheDuke11:
Reverse Camera intermittent start

Just got this unit and finally got it all installed (except for little trim work) yesterday. It also came with a reverse camera. I have its DC power cable wired to the reverse light positive and negative wires. It also came with a long RCA cable with a red wire on both ends. I wired one end of the red wire to the "reverse" wire on the radio harness. Now, when I put the truck into reverse, the screen only switches to the camera sometimes. Do I also need to wire the other RCA end red wire to the reverse light wire? Thanks.
[Android Head-Units] nosidefcp:
Anyone has their subwoofer working? The sub, and both rcas for front and rear sound doesnt send any sound to the sub.
[Android Head-Units] Remiguel:
To connect correctly your rear camera, please do it as per this picture
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
How did you end up acquiring the latest IQ Navi ROM if you don't mind me asking? I would love to obtain/purchase or donate towards it myself.

I keep looking, but I cannot seem to find the options anywhere to adjust the dimensions for the guidelines on the backup camera. I have only been able to find the options to add or remove the guides or add/remove the lines that move with my steering wheel.

Thank you for any help in advance
[Android Head-Units] ronst22:
Bluetooth problems

Hello, I've got an android head unit

Mcu version: 5.3.18-11-10-453101-151209

System version: 4.5.8_2016010829

And i have a few questions.

1. When i play music via Bluetooth i don't see id3 tags in the bluetooth application, i thought maybe i need to update the bluetooth application but i don't know how.

Can you tell me how to fix it?

2. When I'm making a phone call it doesn't connect to the head unit until the phone call is answered.

I check with android lollipop phone and when i call someone i can see the phone call immediately on the head unit but with android marshmallow i can see the phone call on the head unit only when the phone call is answered.

Why is that?
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
You can contact him on the 4PDA forum his name is Mobi 97.

I now have another issue. Static interference. I get when listening to the radio but i also get it when listening to Spotify. Not all the time but it does happen sometimes its very loud.

Anyone else had this issue.

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] Remiguel:
You have to go in Extra settings and enable Reverse trajectory. Once enable, engage the reverse gear and you will have the screen as per the picture attached. You can adjust the lines according your needs.
[Android Head-Units] hgupta:
Is there an option to adjust the lines from side to side? My camera is located closer to the right side of the vehicle, so my trajectory is off.

---------- Post added at 08:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 PM ----------

Thanks!

I can't read Russian so the captcha prevented me from registering. How did you get past that part?
[Android Head-Units] JoeNorton93:
I had the same problem so I made an account using the Android app. No captcha :)
[Android Head-Units] Remiguel:
Give it a try! I can remember you can adjust almost everything by draging your finger on the screen. You can also set the distance of the warning color lines.
[Android Head-Units] hgupta:
Can you tell what additional benefits are of the latest version that you have to request over the freely available version?
[Android Head-Units] Hisma:
If anyone is trying to eek the best quality sound out of these units with high quality components, I have found the right combination.

- iq navi on the HU. When the EQ is set to "normal", it appears to be a true flat EQ. Not true w/ the stock firmware.

- DSP downstream of the HU. This is if you want to really dial in the settings, specifically important things like time alignment, which can't be done in the HU.

- most DSPs don't include a line driver on the outputs, so a line driver downstream of the DSP. This will alleviate the issue w/ the low pre-out voltage of these units. I have a driver that adds +6dB to the pre-outs.

- external amp. Whatever you have on hand here. With the boosted pre-out voltage from the line driver, you shouldn't need to raise the gain too high.

After nearly 6 months playing around w/ my sound system, I am finally starting to be happy with the sound. I think the key thing I was missing was the line driver. The pre-outs are only 1V so it not only limits the volume of the system, it ends up amplifying more noise. Line drivers only cost like $30-40 so it's a worthwhile investment to anyone that is going for a premium audio experience with these units.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
I don't really understand anything you just said, but I have also been messing with my sound settings and I still want them better. So I just start Googling things you've mentioned and figure it out lol. Thank you for posting about this. I just installed Viper on the unit and got some better results, just not as good as I want yet :/
[Android Head-Units] Hisma:
Here is a cheap DSP that works well -

https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4

(need to add the miniDC for car audio, like it says)

here is a cheap line driver that works well -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

it's marketed mainly as a cross-over, but you can use it as a line driver only.

an amp is an amp, self explanatory. Then you have to actually run wires to all this stuff, that is extremely time consuming. Then you should add new speakers if you're going to go through all that work.

If you're willing to go through all that, then go for it. I did since I hated my stock car audio system and wanted more.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Thanks again. I have a stock/OEM amp in my car already. I'm not quite sure how this will all work, but I should be able to figure it out.
[Android Head-Units] Hisma:
the DSP lets you set crossover points, time alignment, and EQ each speaker individually. If you take the time to learn how it works, it can really make the difference in making your system sound as good as it ever will. Especially since the EQ built into these HUs is a joke. Viper4android helps some, but doing sound processing externally is the way to go if you want the best. They used to cost a minimum of $500, but now you can grab one in the $100 range thanks to minidsp.

The line driver is just to make up for the low pre-out voltage of these things. They are 1V by default, and will drop all the way to .5V after going through the DSP. Boosting that voltage before it goes into the amp not only helps give you more power to your speakers, but will also help prevent the amp from amplifying noise. More volts = lower noise floor, which is a good thing. A nicer HU would give you 4V pre-outs, for instance, and you wouldn't need a line driver.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Sooo... My unit just kinda locked up and wouldn't respond randomly when just opening the app drawer. So I hit the reset button with a pin and now it will not fully boot. The boot logo will show, then then it switches to the android post boot logo and just hangs on that. I have no physical buttons on my unit (attached pic.). I've been searching around and cannot find a way to get into a recover/reset/update menu. I've held down reset for a good length of time, reset+every other button combo, with/without GPS card in slot with the 2 update files. I did make img backups of my system when I first got it. I am not sure how to use these though, or if there might be some other way to factory reset it. If anyone has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for any response in advance.
[Android Head-Units] cmaiquel:
1 . Put the firmware you want to install on an USB media connected to the unit USB port.

2. Shut Down the unit (disconnect acc)

3. Put the KEY1-5V cable to ground (unit metal case or black cable).

4. Turn on the unit again, it will start flashing the firmware from your USB drive.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Oh!

But I do not have any key1, key2, swc1, swc2 wires on my connections :(

There are 2 empty spots for swc1 and 2.

This is what my wiring looks like with the diagram

Edit: I think I have a Volkswagen trigger wire sitting around somewhere. Do you think I could use that for one of those pin slots?

I if that is a possibility, I would love to be able to connect both key wires to the harness....

I would just need to figure out where they would go...

Edit 2: Forgot to add a pic of what the trigger wire looks like
[Android Head-Units] cmaiquel:
It should be the canbus cable (CAN RX), I think for you is the brown/black.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
Oh, okay thank you I will try.

Sorry again to ask, I just want to make sure before I make the attempt.

Should I take the end that plugs into the unit itself (like from in the picture with the 2 missing holes)

Or the opposite end to the metal casing of the unit?
[Android Head-Units] cmaiquel:
You shoud take the end of the wire opposite to the unit and put it to ground. Could be the unit case or the black cable.
[Android Head-Units] wigglitz:
I have tried every combination I could think of with the Can TX grounded. Still just always boots until the Android boot logo and never finishes.

No accessories but what ever I was using for the firmware.

Using 3 different firmware version files including the one my unit is currently on. All used with every possibility that follows:

Tried all of these combinations on both USB inputs on the unit

3 different USB flash drives. A 4GB, 8 and 16. All properly formatted with nothing but the firmware files on them.

Same as above but only using the map card slot.

Same again, but using the SD cards with a USB adapter in both USB inputs

And many combinations of powering the unit and then those again with trying the reset button along with.

I might have left out some other things I've tried too.

Each boot I see the flash drive light turn on, then flicker like it's attempting to read from it also. Then just goes back to solid light.

I'm not sure if I'm just doing something completely wrong or...

I tried another known ground point in my car along with the pic I attached where I set it on the unit case.

Thank you again for guiding me through this. I sincerely appreciate it.