yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Windows 8 General] shunsai:
I thought about waiting for Skylake, but when I realized that there would be 3 tiers, I imagined they might use the weakest one and charge a premium since it's new (and since the Cube i7 series has been such a big hit). So I decided the original Core M was good enough. Very happy with my Cube i7 Stylus.

If you don't need a new tablet right away, then probably sometime early next year a new Cube tablet will come out (just my guess). I had already been waiting for 3 months for the Asus T100HA when I got the Cube. No regrets!
[Windows 8 General] shunsai:
Finally got my Bluetooth working!

Finally! I haven't been able to use my Bluetooth for as long as I've had the tablet. I started to wonder if it was defective. I tried several of the drivers in previous posts, but none of them worked for me. Device manager kept on showing only 'Generic Bluetooth Adapter'.

I still don't know if it's because those drivers are for Windows 10 and I'm still on 8 or what (even though the Lenovo site where one of the links pointed said it was for Windows 8 and 10).

I found these drivers dated March 19, 2015 (released May 6, 2015 I believe), version number 3.857.857.03232015. It says these are for Windows 8.1-32/Win8.1-64, but maybe they're compatible with Win 10 too since Win 10 wasn't publicly available when these came out. YMMV.

Please let me know if these work for anyone else, or if my Cube is just weirder than yours. :p

Link here

UPDATE: A link to an even newer version of the Realtek Drivers released Aug. 7, 2015

Link here
[Windows 8 General] Maufeat:
Hello XDA,

bought an Cube i7 Stylus from Gearbest, waiting now until I recieve it! Just have a question, I expect it's Windows 8 or 8.1, how can I upgrade to Windows 10 plus what should I do first? Is there something todo, like upgrading/updating things?

Thanks in advance :)
[Windows 8 General] shunsai:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION], thanks for all the work you're putting into making the Cube i7 Stylus community a community. If it isn't too much to ask, could you indicate on your driver updates whether they are for Windows 10 or whether they're compatible with 8.1? I think that may be why some of the drivers haven't worked for me- some of the drivers in your drivers packs seem to be for Win 10 only.

Not sure if I'm the only one still using 8.1, but I'm not ready to move over to 10.
[Windows 8 General] mixterz:
this driver worked for me

http://www76.zippyshare.com/v/oR7HOHrl/file.html
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
[MENTION=456923]shunsai[/MENTION]

Those drivers are Windows 10 only, Windows 8.1 drivers are located on Post #2
[Windows 8 General] shunsai:
Cool. Those drivers seem to be from 2014 though. If you want newer ones, you can try the ones I posted. But, hey, if it ain't broke, don't fix it right?
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
Thanks for all your work Wootever - very useful stuff.

I have been looking at what you have been doing with regards to reworking the thermals with some interest as I have a bit of time to kill before my own device ships (Gearbest are out of stock presently).

What I have planned presently is off the basis of some of your own work and measurements you have given.

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste on the CPU modules and memory.

2x 20x20x0.5mm copper shims placed side by side and trimmed to fit the CPU package (had these on hand and will trim down to total of 31x18, making sure the split is between the CPU and iGPU). Same copper shim sizes also trimmed to sit on memory.

Mix of 70% Artic silver thermal adhesive and 30% Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut to bond the above copper shims to the below

100x100x1mm copper plate which I will shape to provide support arms (in place of what you have down separately with your aluminium arms) and cut out any points of obstruction with mainboard components

100x100x0.5mm Thermal Grizzly minus 8 pad - taking into your comments regarding benefit of thermal pad compressibility to lessen compression loading on the mainboard. Will be trimmed to match the patter of the above copper plate.

Finally 0.1mm copper foil across the entire mag alloy casing

I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on this?

Regarding the WiFi, you noted that in newer revisions the suspected EMI issue with the SSD seems to have been resolved. Do you have any more information on this?

I was thinking about possibly replacing the WiFi antenna with an iPad mini antenna or similar. However I do not have the dimensions of this and would only be guessing if it would fit. Cutting it to fit would not be ideal as the antenna elements are tuned so there would be a material reduction in gain I suspect.

Finally also would be interested to know if you have looked into alternate internal speakers. Did you know the dimensions of the housing which the speakers can be fitted?

I am keen just to get everything sorted in one go - opening the case on these things multiple times is really something you want to avoid in my experience, even when taking precautions such as pre heating the case.

Thanks in advance.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
It's mostly just speculation, newer revisions have moved the wifi antenna cable to avoid direct contact with the ssd.

See: http://bbs.51cube.com/thread-103687-1-1.html

If you remove the old antenna "holder" there should be enough space to fit notebook sized antennas:

Not yet, will take a look at this.

About the heatspreader part: i will write a more detailed answer later (you got some good ideas worth consideration).
[Windows 8 General] oeriel:
My idea is coming back again. Is it possible to make a connector like this? My Cube i7S power cable have a little distance from edge. I don't know it's good or not (everything works fine) but it looks dangerous to damage it.

Look at this magnet connector. It's not size of ours jack, but they have many types. Is it possible to make a magnetic power jack connector?

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/custom-magnetic-power-cable-Magnetic-pogo_60160583921.html
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
Original Post:

With the original heatspreader removed and only the screws attached, the height between those and the core package is about ~0.5mm:

I added some coppersheet with the size of 31mm x 18mm x 0.5mm and an Arctic Cooling thermal pad 1mm:

The upper sheet (50mm x 45mm x 0.5mm) perfectly fits at the lower copper sheet, threads and thermal pad:

It needs to be secured as well, i thought about some small aluminium brackets that can be attached to the mainboard:

Update1:

​

Update2:

The red line is new size of the upper copper sheet (and also 1mm instead of 0.5mm), the blue line is the thermal pad (arctic cooling 0.5mm):

Update3:

​

Update4:

​
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
Don't know exactly, could be an USB port like the keyboard connector.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
Await the first benchmarks for the second Core M generation, if the result isn't massively better (~+25%) it probably isn't worth it. Even more if you consider device prices, which will be undoubtedly higher than ~$300.

What you could try: remove the backcover and open the connector lock for the i8_key, enable the device and carefully remove the cable.
[Windows 8 General] majkel_94:
The CPU cores are ~5% faster clock vs. clock but Intel reorganised the GPU parts and it's 30-50% faster even with the same amount of 24 EU's.

But I think we won't see any difference due to TDP Limit which keeps GPU clock on 500-550MHz on FIFA 16 for example ;)
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
The reviews on the AS thermal adhesive and product documentation indicate it is permanent at 100%, as in you are likely to cause physical destruction of components it trying to force apart. This is certainly sufficient for the purpose I intend. At 70:30 mix it seems to be classed as semi permanent (i.e. you may be able to force apart without physical damage to components), the advantage would really be in terms of the higher thermal conductivity for the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. I will be testing this first between two spare copper shims to see the results as I appreciate what you have said - you down want the shim floating round the case!

What did you use for electrical isolation on the back of your copper spreader - I assume some thin electrical tape ?

Regarding the memory I agree, I will consider re-purposing some of the minus pad 8 (0.5mm), with 2x layers, from that I am trimming from the 100x100mm 0.5mm sheet. I don't think it will make much different either way however other than being a little safer.

Finally on the copper heat spreader I am in two minds. The copper has far better thermal conductivity obviously so the preference from a heat dissipation point of view would be to have the copper plate as 1mm and the thermal pad as 0.5mm. Having the thermal pad thicker and the copper thinner will reduce the over all thermal performance, however will allow greater compression between the case and the spreader as you have noted.

How much flex is there in the mag allow case towards the screen?

Do you see screen bleed all the time or only when pressure is applied to the back of the screen?

Also when looking at your mod and the aluminium brackets, what is the thickness of these brackets as they lie on top of the heatspreader? Do you think these are possibly the cause of the pressure transfer from the casing to the internals?

Thanks again for your responses, they are much appreciated.

---------- Post added at 08:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:23 PM ----------

Skylake IPC is indeed only ~5% uplift over Broadwell. The question will be how much more efficient the Skylake GPU is with regards to thermal performance as fanless platforms of this size are thermally limited.

Interestingly the price per tray seems to be fairly comparable between Skylake and Broadwell parts (at least advertised price points) - I am guessing they are not to volume customers however.

I feel the real benefit will likely be USB C connectors and charging (no reason this could not take place on Broadwell however) and the improved power management capabilities of Skylake. If the GPU is more power and thermally efficient then that is a (significant) cherry on the top IMHO.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
Yes, just some simple electrical tape.

Indeed, but i think thicker thermal pad can probably adapt itself better to varying circumstances. Not only force/pressure from outside but also expanding materials caused by high thermal strain.

The case still fits, but i can see the connections have some movement if i apply some force on the display.

Some medium force on the left display edge make it bleed, but this isn't something you would do regulary (only to check stability).

This might be indeed possible, brackets are under <5mm so they should be on a par with the thermal pads (theoretically).

Here is a simple layout for the cpu heatspreader:
[Windows 8 General] googleist:
hi

I'm using this tablet for about 1.5 month and I like it so much but there are few little things that are annoying (but not that much:

1- almost every time I put my tablet in my bag, the digitizer glass sticks to IPS panel and I have to do this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kFUhyUyz6k

Do you guys have this problem too? is there any hard case or something that prevents this?

2- Isn't there any green LED that shows the battery is fully charged? because I have a red one that turns on while charging but no green one

3- After upgrading to win 10 I had some problem with palm rejection and I tried moving taskbar to up and... and it's better now, but not solved. Is there any solution?

4- I never upgraded BIOS. what does that do? what does it improve?

5- Is there any solution for "not working touch screen for few seconds" problem yet?

Thank you in advance
[Windows 8 General] MatanYeho:
about 1. i always keep my tablet attached to a keyboard so i don't know if i have this issue too.

2. my tablet have a green led while it's full charged, but the light is very dimmed and hard to see it.

3. i have this issue too, nothing solve it so far.

4. i'm using Wootever 0805 ver bios, i don't know if there are a big changes after the upgrading, but it's better to have an update bios.

5. i have this issue too, after a while the touch screen stop working and i will have to make the tablet sleep and wake it up again to make it work again.
[Windows 8 General] ahmed1994:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION]

About the electrical isolation on back of heat spreader i think using tapes gains heat especially black electric tapes

Don't you think so??
[Windows 8 General] metalfingers1:
There was a semi-fix posted on here few weeks back. You can make the screen responsive again by pressing the windows button on your cube, that will make the touch active again. Not really a solution to the problem, but its better then having to sleep/wake your tablet every time.
[Windows 8 General] MatanYeho:
Thank you, i will try that.

i have another problem, sometimes the wifi stop working and the adapter can't be found in the device manager. and then only restart the tablet solve it.

maybe there any solution for it too?

Thanks
[Windows 8 General] Marrond:
Hello

edit: nevermind... wrong tablet :silly:

Sooo, my Cube i7 Stylus has MAK license that seems to be permanent. However isn't that like, illegal aswell?
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
Thanks, I just ordered a larger 0.5mm sheet to make this up. :)

I think I will stick with the 0.5mm thermal pad between the heat spreader and the foil/mag alloy case for the time being and see how it works out - the thermal grizzly pad inst cheap and it is specifically marketed as having good compressibility so fingers crossed. Will document results and post back once I get my tablet finally...

Did you have any luck with measuring the speaker housings? Still pondering upgrading these if I can find something decent quality, cheap and available on ebay parts bin. Ditto for cameras, although that might be a little more difficult as the cable ribbons tend to be bespoke in shape.
[Windows 8 General] Shades89:
Guys, my accelerometer is completely inverted! Why? :(
[Windows 8 General] oeriel:
Check post #967 - it should help you

http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=62846141&postcount=967
[Windows 8 General] lodkeserith:
Question about linux

I am very interested in this tablet and I have read through icsofts guide on installing lubuntu on the tablet but I had a question. Does the touchscreen work very well on lubuntu? I know its not built for working with a touchscreen but how is the overall linux experience?

I use linux on all my computers and the thought of being locked into windows isnt the most comforting for me, so before I buy it I would like to know I have a few options.

Thanks for all you guys do, its awesome to see the support on this device.
[Windows 8 General] Heishiro1988:
Yesterday I tried to install Fedora 23 beta, but the installer had a bug and I couldn't. Mi opinion about Linux in this tablet is:

1 - The keyboard Usb and touchpad doesn't work very well before the icsofts tweak, but you can use the tablet USB with a HUB perfectly. I conected the USB Installer, a mouse and the Phone (internet conection).

2 - At the first moment the touchscreen doesn't work, I don't know if I have to do something to enable it. Anyone can tell me?

3 - The wacom pen works even better than in windows.

Edit: Today I tried Ubuntu 15.10 Beta 2... everything but the wifi and the bluetooth is working. Touchscreen and wacom pen works fine.

Edit2: Finally I installed Ubuntu Gnome 15.10 Beta 2 because in ubuntu the touchscren and the pen works fine. With gnome you have some screen gestures, like swype from de left of the screen to get the apps box and the system keeps cooler than Fedora.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
[MENTION=6342495]fraktulnz[/MENTION]

Speakers: 28mm x 9mm x 4mm
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
I read some reviews about the thermal adhesive as well, seems like a pretty smart idea and more effective than i thought. My now preferred solution would be the cpu heatspreader + copper sheet with mounting holes and glued together.
[Windows 8 General] ajdeneka:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION],

so you are going to use that 4 screws around cpu to secure copper sheet, which will be glued on top of cpu heatspreader?

how is cpu heatspreader be secured? only with glue?

and what thickness are you going to use for cpu heatspreader and what for top copper sheet?

thanks!
[Windows 8 General] baxtex:
Was thinking on doing this, but I wonder how do I restore the original (backed up) bios again if something goes wrong?
[Windows 8 General] murakh:
Thankyou icsoft. Your instructions helped a lot getting Mint connected for me!

My experience with Linux on the i7 Stylus so far (and maybe this will help with your Wacom setup?)

Linux Mint 17.2 Cinnamon Live would initially only accept booting in compatibility mode (after writing to a USB 3 Sandisk thumbdrive with Rufus). Retrying later I think it needs some patience as if I waited a few extra seconds at the boot selection screen (of the Live session) it would boot ok. Touch worked fine as well as sound.

Ubuntu 15.04 Live also worked fine from the same USB thumbdrive, touch and sound also working.

Allegedly OpenSuse has a tablet mode which could be suited, have yet to try this though.

Installed Mint 17.2 Cinnamon and after installation the touch recognition was not working. Very frustrating considering it worked in the Live session. Some internet searches led me to this:

forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=96183#p550414 (being only a lurker for many years means I still cannot post links, sorry)

Unlike indicated in that thread I had 2 lines in the file

/lib/udev/rules.d/40-inputattach.rules

instead of only one. Commenting out both and rebooting resulted in touch recognition working and my Note 4 stylus was recognised (whether this means the Wacom is working fully I do not have enough experience to tell).

So far Mint is looking exceptional (hard to describe just how much better than Windows 10 looks) and boots amazing fast.

Now need to work on getting a virtual keyboard showing at the login screen and decide how best to handle the dual booting as currently I need the keyboard attached and swop in the BIOS.
[Windows 8 General] Heishiro1988:
For the dual booting I don't know what to do, but the virtual keyboard at the login screen, Gnome includes it... maybe installing and setting as default the GDM works for you.

The touchscreen error... I have to try it, because I have the same problem, but only with the touch, not de stylus.

How do you solve the problem with the keyboard hub? Mine works only a few seconds and then goes off. I cant use the usbs or the touchpad.

And I am getting an error when I do the make instruction in the bluetooth compilation... but I don't use the bluetooth, then is not important :D
[Windows 8 General] murakh:
Seems I forgot about something (I was trying to get things working at 3am!!).

For the touchscreen you may have to comment out those lines as mentioned before, and then also do a

modprobe hid_multitouch

At least that is what I think I did at about 2.30am and everything worked. Playing around with other settings now in the light of day, the multitouch module is no longer loaded and does not want to load anymore.

*Edit: This seemed to only work when run from a terminal session (apologies for perhaps incorrect terminology) and not a terminal window inside X (Cinnamon). (Pressing Ctrl + Alt + F1)

Also ran depmod after this, but I am really just experimenting with minimal knowledge. However after rebooting I had touch again.

So far there has been no issues with my keyboard or trackpad, and even picking up the tablet and replacing it a few times has not caused problems even when there was a USB thumbdrive plugged in at the time, and the bluetooth compilation exited normally as far as I know. I was not watching closely and just blindly followed the instructions, but I have no need for bluetooth at present so no idea if it even works.

On the dual booting, there was some mention that Grub2 can be modified to use the volume keys for selection, need to look into that, otherwise see if it can be hacked into the Windows 10 bootloader.
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
Great, yes I think it is a good idea too - I will be using your template for the CPU heat spreader and likely make this up this weekend as my 0.5mm copper sheet has now arrived, time allowing (new child is taking up much of my time!).

On a separate OT note I would advise against using Gearbest based on my experience in ordering from them - they are telling people over the last fews days online that they have these in stock yet they clearly do not and have no viability on when they anticipate new stock to fulfil my order from mid September. I appreciate things go out of stock, and even that their online stock systems which showed this item in stock at the time of order might have been out of date, however responding to specific questions to prospective customers saying it is in stock when the CSR clearly knows it is not is wilful deception of customers on their part in my view.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
Download this file, extract it, copy your bios_backup.bin to the directory and run Restore.cmd
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
The heatspreader is composed out of two copper sheets, part one the "cpu heatspreader" (copper sheet height: 0.5mm~0.6mm):

Part two (blue line including mounting holes; copper sheet height: 0.5mm~1mm) will be glued on top of the "cpu heatspreader" (purple line is a thermal pad with ~1mm):

With a paper test (it is just screwed to check the measurements, a real copper plate wouldn't fit this way):
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION] uh oh, is there a specific section causing it not to fit, or is the entire cross section too thick?
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
The original heatspreader had an small elevation (red line: ~0.5mm) to avoid contact with most of the components.

You probably could build an single layer heatspreader with ~1.5mm but it will be complex cutting / milling notches for all overhanging mainboard parts: resistors around the core package, transistors and embedded controller.
[Windows 8 General] baxtex:
Awesome! I just got the tablet aand I really like it. Though the touchpad fells a bit lacking. Iäm using Windows 10 though, could it be some old drivers perhaps?
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION] right I see. You could perhaps eliminate doing that be reducing the top heat spreader to just the cpu location and down to the memory and surrounds.

Will have to wait till a get a hold of my unit to get a feel for how fiddly it would be to cut out with a dremel using the original as a template.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
Indeed, i thought about this as well, it would have the advantage of better thermal conductivity and no need for thermal adhesive for the copper parts.

But it might possible that the heatspreader is elevated by design, maybe to avoid thermal strain for some of the lower components, it is difficult to determine.
[Windows 8 General] fraktulnz:
[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION] I mean keep the bottom cpu shim the same as per your design on the previous page and reduce the size of the top heat spreader so it sits over only the cpu shim and memory modules, this way it should still be thermally isolated from the components below.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
[MENTION=6342495]fraktulnz[/MENTION]

If the cpu heatspreader is >0.5mm it should fit, it is only problematic if the cpu heatspreader is <0.5mm or if you increase the cpu heatspreader size.

The heatspreader parts (imagine copper instead of paper) boreholes needs to be 1mm or 2mm on the cpu part and 3mm on the upper sheet:

It then will be glued together with the upper sheet:

(i will later merge my heatspreader posts to one big post with better arrangement)