yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Windows 8 General] techbissu:
Hi [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION],

Thanks a lot again for helping me. In fact, I had removed all except middle one thinking that this is required as path for heat transfer to back cover. But, once I removed it, my tablet boots perfectly now. No more booting issue.

But, this brings a big question for me: Why manufacturer put these heat transfer pads to take heat to back cover if it does not allow to boot OS ? May be I am missing something here, which I could not identify on which part of circuit board touching to back cover is actually giving problem. And how with the same pads, it is working for most of the users here ?

Also, as I can see in Temperature monitor application, the CPU & motherboard temperature is reaching upto 70 degree with just using Chrome browser and back side of tablet, where CPU lies is really becoming hot. And only left half side of tablet becoming hot, right side is normal. So, no heat transfer to right half of tablet where batter is kept. This is really worrying me. I will definitely look into the heat spreader solution provided by you in OP.

Once again, Thanks a lot for your help.
[Windows 8 General] Stalmoker:
These pads are not just for heat transfer, they also serve as EMI shielding measure. Thus their surface is made of electric-conductive material. It's possible that by contacting it with motherboard, some parts are short-circuited. Simply removing them or insulating them would allow the short-circuit to be resolved.

---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:43 PM ----------

[MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION]

Would you mind to tell me may I apply the modified BIOS to my "WA"-prefixed unit?

Many thanks.
[Windows 8 General] yuri624:
When the touchscreen is disabled after a while, just don't try to do "short touches" but one 2-second touch-and-hold. It instantly responds again then (without the use of the hardware button).
[Windows 8 General] ipsomatic:
[MENTION=4056517]HypoTurtle[/MENTION]

I put the ext4img/rar on ntfs volume - now have great dual boot via the EUFI/BIOS boot selection process (manual)

palm rejection notworking -wifi issue with keyboard connections first observed (never saw that under win10) - and this morning the wireless adapter seems to have gone away ( i set it for some updates overnight).

Now to find the grub/selection file from either and combine - i though i saw that code in this thread somewhere but cant find it now.

(i need to know more about it, ive done some dual boot phones, but both android)

Thanks for the help! where is all the action on this Cytrix device, so many win8/1 ppl with the cube here... ?
[Windows 8 General] HypoTurtle:
This what you are looking for? Windows chainload entry for grub...
[Windows 8 General] ipsomatic:
Yes! Thank you. Modified bothsides so the default is to switch OS when no keyboard attached (why would i restart and not switch OS's without the keyboard anyways? :) )

I will now go through why the network device disappeared. really zero complaints with what came shipped (besides being win10), so i am not seeing any other issues than the hand recognition when using the pen, and intermittent loss of network under ubuntu than this.
[Windows 8 General] techbissu:
Not booting when back cover of tablet put

I am finding that the issue related to tablet not booting when back cover of tablet is put, is still not fixed for me. I found that to boot the tablet, I had to keep the area near Power & Volume button slightly open, as can be seen in the attached image. Looking into it a little deep, I found that when tablet cover is closed, the heat sink cover put above the processor & RAM was slightly getting pressed, which was leading to touching to some of the components on the circuit board (I have highlighted area in the picture). I also found that the heat cover was painted with yellow color (may be non-conductive) on the bottom side, which was supposed to be fine even if it touches the component. I just put a white paper tape only on the area which was required not to be touched and put the heat transfer cover back on top of Processor & RAM. Till now, it is booting fine, which I tested multiple times. Putting a paper cover may not be the permanent solution, which I need to find what I can put below that heat sink, as that area is really getting hot and paper tap may not survive for longer time. But I still can't say the problem is solved for me, since it looked like the problem was solved for me earlier, but again resurfaced.

Will keep you updated on this issue.

Thanks
[Windows 8 General] elfenix182:
Hello. Same problem [MENTION=4709667]Wootever[/MENTION].

Thanks again

I dont know what is the problem. With original bios the problem disapears. I dont remember whats version starts this problem. Sounds and videos its like slowmotion until i remove and put again hdmi to my samsung tv.

And another thing its if i have a hard drive attached at usb 3.0 with the tablet off, the light on hard drive its on and consume battery. The hard drive its off, but like waiting. Again with the bios modified.
[Windows 8 General] kaotikb:
Maybe electrical tape would work better then paper in that situation. Or you could cut the part of the heat sink that touches the components off with a dremel. The back cover could also be warped causing that problem. I opened mine up to install a larger m2 ssd and did not have any problems after reassembly.
[Windows 8 General] baxtex:
Someone still got these profiles? The links are dead.

Also, should we use XTU or Throttle stop to Undervolt the cpu? I've been using XTU but it always resets my settings.
[Windows 8 General] AlvaroRos:
I use XTU, you can create a profile with your settings, and when needed press the profile, press show values and apply. The App-profile pairing is very usefull because you can choose especific settings for games for example some overclocking.
[Windows 8 General] AlvaroRos:
my heatsink

I did a heat sink mod, just wanted to share.

The desing is based on the wootever's heat sink with the same 1mm and 0,6mm copper plates, thermal pad and thermal paste, but also like GreenGo [ http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=64281736&postcount=1856 ] with larger 3mm screws because the 6mm plate has also holes for the screws and between the plates there is thermal paste too.

I tried to do it as bigger as possible with the materials I had. The 1mm part is just like wootever's one and for the 0,6mm plate I mixed some desings to get the bigger one. Sorry for the ****ty photos.

View attachment 3639175

Then I add for my own some more copper for the upper left side (in the image) of the 0,6 mm heatsink and glued with thermal adhesive a third part that is a large slim copper plate 0.1mm which is folded over itself twice so that it is as three slim plates. This is for more sulface/volume ratio that I think is better for disipation by air. The heatsink has two thermal pads to transfer to the aliminium back: one in the original location and a second in the upper left part of the 6mm plate so a little bit of the heat now goes to the upper middle section of the tablet, just under the camera. I put some insulating tape to protect the batteries and the anthena from the heat and also other parts of the inside of the tablet.

View attachment 3639190

View attachment 3639191

View attachment 3639192

Now its always cold except when I do some overclock because I like to play some games with good frame rates and I set the turbo boost power max to 15W with XTU. I am very happy with the results, I play CS: GO at full hd with vertical sync and I get 50-60 fps with bots and 60 without them. I am very close to P1200 in 3d mark 11. I dont know if I can do something more to improve the gaming performance.
[Windows 8 General] techbissu:
That is nice. I am also thinking to do something similar. But I have a question here: with the default heat sink which I got with the tablet, when I play game (say Asphalt 8) I can see that CPU temperature reaching 70 degree, but motherboard temperature going beyond 80 degree. Now, with your solution, is motherboard temperature also keeping low ? Also, I think you have utilized upper top channel, but lower half channel can also be utilized, right ?

Thanks
[Windows 8 General] AlvaroRos:
If you mean the package (socket) temperature, it is mantained very close at the same temperature of the CPU/GPU.

Yes, I think that the lower half channel can be also utilized but you need to be careful with the connectors of that part. I didnt have enough copper for that and I choose the upper middle part to dissipate to the back because that side is far from two holding hands. I played asphalt 30 min and the termperature dind't reach 65º playing with overclocked 15W of turbo boost power max.
[Windows 8 General] skippie17700:
it's quiet in here, no news about an android update? Right now my tablet is unusable at the moment, within a couple of hours the battery is empty even without using, very annoying.

BTW Facebook is using 95% of the battery!! Can anyone else check this out?
[Windows 8 General] tprata:
Well...You are using the tablet with an OS not meant for it, you should expect faults and bugs.... Also, facebook is known to eat through batteries pretty fast, even in cellphones designed with android...

Still, i've been wondering for some weeks why would anyone buy a more expensive tablet to put android in it... There's literally 100's of tablets with similar spec's for half the price, and someone decides to pay more to put such a limited system on it? We can buy an x86 10inch tablet with android for half the price, but someone decided to buy this more expensive one, to limit it to hell... This thing can game decently, can run CAD software, I've been using photoshop with pretty large images without issues, and apparently most people just use it to play little android games that can be run in emulators for most cases... I've made it last 12h in battery while in windows, and would probably make it last more in linux, and people are putting android in with less function and complaining about battery... What a loss of hardware....

Guess that to each their own...

/rant off

Not to piss on the work done, there's great skill on what has been done. Just find it odd there was a need for it in the first place, with this kind of device
[Windows 8 General] NisseN123:
-Maybe the slic/slp could be modded. IF you read it from an ordinary /legit cube and post it here. We can take a look.

-Have you tried to save all drivers, format disc and load a complete new w8? Is that possible?
[Windows 8 General] mackcyber:
Onenote Radial Menu

Hi all,

For those who are upgraded to Win 10, did you missed Win 8 Onenote Metro App version ?

The purpose i bought this tablet is to use it for take notes. Using Onenote in Win 8 is pleasant, but after upgrade to Win 10, Radial Menu is gone. Its very useful to switch between pen thickness and colour.

Did someone can rip off Win 8 Onenote to use win Win 10 ?
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
A brief overview about the physical restrictions (TDP) of the Intel Core M and how Intel XTU can improve this behaviour:

Those are the Intel suggested thermal specifications for tablets and ultra convertibles, the Cube i7 Stylus is a [10,6", 10.5mm] and should be rated at max. 4.5W.

However, it doesn't include any TDP restrictions and always resides at the maximum core limit of 6W.

Let's take a look at the heatspreader of the Dell Venue 11 Pro [10,8", 10.7mm]:

A copper shield under a plastic back cover is not the most sufficient solution, and even with a locked TDP of 4.5W it still reaches very high core temperatures, thus the back gets noticeable warm with 47 °C.

Another factor is the short max turbo which allows the core package to temporary utilize up to 15W TDP, even so it is rather fast limited by the core temperatures and the consistent TDP.

Missing restrictions on the short max turbo just greatly increase heat output without giving the same gain in performance (see the 3DMark benchmarks below).

Now the heatspreader of the Cube i7 Stylus:

A thin aluminum shield that transfers heat via thermal pads to the metallic back which increases the surface for heat dissipation.

But without any form of TDP restriction policy the back gets unbearable hot, it doesn't have the capabilities to handle consistent 6W AND unrestricted short turbo max of 15W.

Fortunately Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility has the option to reduce the TDP limit:

It is also suggested to reduce the max turbo time window to 1.25 seconds:

3DMark: P892
XTU: 6W, 15W, 5.0sec
HWInfo: max. 91C°, max. 9.0W

3DMark: P900
XTU: 6W, 15W, 4.0sec
HWInfo: max. 91C°, max. 8.9W

3DMark: P893
XTU: 6W, 15W, 3.0sec
HWInfo: max. 85C°, max. 8.1W

3DMark: P890
XTU: 6W, 15W, 2.0sec
HWInfo: max. 81C°, max. 7.2W

3DMark: P896
XTU: 6W, 15W, 1.75sec
HWInfo: max. 81C°, max. 6.8W

3DMark: P899
XTU: 6W, 15W, 1.5sec
HWInfo: max. 82C°, max. 6.9W

[B]3DMark: P906
XTU: 6W, 15W, 1.25sec
HWInfo: max. 81C°, max. 6.8W[/B]

3DMark: P891
XTU: 6W, 15W, 1.0sec
HWInfo: max. 82C°, max. 6.4W

3DMark: P878
XTU: 6W, 15W, 0.5sec
HWInfo: max. 83C°, max. 6.1W
[Windows 8 General] rilot:
Wootever, I was a little concerned about your bricking earlier in the thread. To be sure, which BIOS do I need to flash on mine (Big AMI logo at boot)?
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
[MENTION=258505]rilot[/MENTION]

I admit this was a bit confusing, let me first explain the difference between Intel's Flash programming tool (FPTW) and AMI's flashing tool.

FPTW acts more like a SPI programmer which writes the image given without any validation (that's why the bios lock needs to disabled).

The AMI tool doesn't need that lock to be disabled as it verify the validity between the current and the to-be-flashed bios.

What i tried is to flash my modified Bios with the AMI tool and used a secure validation override (it won't flash that modified bios by default but just gives a warning).

And that was my mistake, as this process corrupted some parts of the Bios region.

Edit:

The AMI Bios included in the Bios update package is unmodified and will flash without corruption issues. The difference between this "AMI" called Bios and the older chinese Bios is the newer date and the changed default logo.

Edit2:

"Chinese" BIOS:

06/24/2015 22:25:17 Ver: 3BAJK020

"AMI" BIOS:

07/16/2015 15:49:26 Ver: 3BAJK020
[Windows 8 General] rilot:
So, I just flash this BIOS as per the instructions in this post yes - http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=62183546&postcount=132

There is no difference between the earlier version hardware with the chinese logo and the newer version with the ami logo?

Sorry for the questions but because there were two different versions kicking around and your BIOS went from v4 to v1 it's got be confused.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
[MENTION=258505]rilot[/MENTION]

As far as i can tell there isn't any difference, but the newer date suggests some internal and undocumented changes/fixes.

I tested this Bios on my device and didn't encounter any issues, thought it may be useful for others too.

About V4 -> V1, it's meant to be V1 of the "new ami version".

Edit:

As for the Hardware, might be possible they assembled a newer revision mainboard (but unlikely).

To have certainty: someone with a Cube sale device needs to disassemble it and make a photo of the mainboard front and back.
[Windows 8 General] petkri:
Yes it works, using Wacom driver proposed by [MENTION=4171841]MDaveUK[/MENTION], on clean installation of W10Pro.:good: No BIOS modification.
[Windows 8 General] seaniccus:
Verified with Microsoft, at least for my tablet. I called them yesterday and had them confirm that the code was invalid. What's more, they double checked and confirmed the error code for me, explaining to me that my Windows key was blocked. They couldn't say why without a lot more investigation, but probably because of misuse and multiple installs with illegal verification.

Edit: Jerry-Cube on AliExpress is trying to get me to cancel my dispute and return the tablet instead. I feel a little like a jerk, but I'm insisting on the partial refund. It's a pretty good tablet and keyboard (though the mouse is eh) and I don't want to pay return shipping. I just want the money to purchase a legal license.

He didn't own up to not having valid codes until I filed the dispute. Now he's direct about it:
[Windows 8 General] mixterz:
Chinese for yeah, no regulation whatsoever.
[Windows 8 General] Wootever:
[MENTION=4888831]seaniccus[/MENTION]

There is another option which requires a bit of work, but it gives a valid Windows 10 licence.

If you got valid a Windows 8.1 Pro serial, activate it on the i7 (via telephone verification). Then you could buy a Media Center serial for $10 and upgrade it.

As those serials are handled separately from the Pro edition, you get a valid Windows 10 licence which only consumes the Media Center serial.
[Windows 8 General] baaldfg:
Win 8 Media Center key to give away

I have a Win 8 Media Center key left which I will never use for anything. I give it away to someone who needs it. The first one to quote this telling me that he needs it will get the key per pm. Please be fair, only request the key if you really need it.

The custom bios found here: http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=62183546&postcount=132 is now base on the newer "AM - logo" bios? Flashing with the batch file works?

Do you have any idea what has to be done in order to get the CTDP back working g in Win10 ? In my eyes, cTDPis the best solution for the battery life and heat vs. performance problem. CTDP up (6W) is too much but automatic switching between 4.5 W (TDP nominal) on charging and 3.5 W (TDP down) on battery would be perfect.

Best wishes,

Christian
[Windows 8 General] majkel_94:
For me cTDP is not working - still as hot as **** when CPU is loaded :P

I think I will have to use Intel Extreme Tuning and profiles to achieve what I need. Only while watching YT the device is acceptably warm ;)
[Windows 8 General] Luis2u4u:
I don't know if I really understood, but that Win 8 Media Center key could be used to have a genuine Windows 10 installation on my Cube I7 Stylus? If yes, then I would like to have that key please. Sorry if I misunderstood, maybe I sound stupid. Thanks.
[Windows 8 General] tppost:
This is my experience with the Windows license issue: I decided to do a clean install of Windows 10 and try to use an old Windows 7 product code, to get rid of the KMSPICO license. The setup program wouldn't accept the Windows 7 code, so I skipped the process of entering a product code twice during the installation. The installation completed and to my surprise Windows 10 was activated according to the settings menu. Over the past three days Windows has not been nagging me about activation.

That doesn't mean that my Cube i7 stylus is unproblematic. WiFi networking crashes constantly. I can't connect to any Bluetooth device. It's essentially an E-reader at the moment. Not exactly what I bought it for :( .
[Windows 8 General] baaldfg:
If I understood the previous post correctly you need to have a valid Win 8 Pro key (which you did not yet upgrade to Win 10). You install Win 8 Pro on the Tablet and activate it. Afterwards you go to "add features to Windows" and enter the Win 8 Media Center key. Activate it and you end up with Win 8 Prof with Media Center. If you now perform the upgrade to Win 10, the Media Center key will be upgraded (becoming a genuine Win 10 Pro key) and your Win 8 Pro key remains unchanged.

This is how I understood the previous post. I never tried this myself. I just offer the Win 8 Media Center key if someone needs it.

Best wishes,

Christian
[Windows 8 General] Luis2u4u:
Well, if I need a valid Win 8 Pro key, which I do not have, I believe I don't need the Media Center key then. Thanks anyway :)
[Windows 8 General] FastPete:
Has anyone with a keyboard had any trouble with the mousepad? I just got mine this morning and it worked great for about 15 minutes but then gradually got less and less responsive. Now, it isn't working at all.

I've tried restarting, disconnecting and reconnecting and pressing Fn + Spacebar.

Is there a specific driver for the mousepad?
[Windows 8 General] rilot:
I've noticed in the BIOS there are options for an audio DSP that's disabled. It has options for various Realtek and Cirrus chipsets. I tried selecting one of the Realtek ones but it just resulting in me losing the ability to play sounds so I changed it back.

Any ideas what the deal is with these? Maybe a generic BIOS that can support various chipset options that our tablet doesn't have.
[Windows 8 General] casioyan:
Thanks a lot for your hard work, could u please tell me where is the backup bios file ?

or can u share a stock bios ? cause the warranty, u know what i mean. :)

thanks again!
[Windows 8 General] skippie17700:
For 1 good reason I wanna use Android : Windows is CRASHING constantly on this tablet, tried everything, had enough of the crashes, so my only hope to use this tablet in a stable environment is to use Android.

So your ranting is a bit way out of order here, Windows is crap, many have problems with it. You not, well then you are one of the few lucky ones.
[Windows 8 General] tprata:
Fair enough. As I said, not to piss on the work done before, just that it greatly limits what the hardware is capable off.

This thing packs a punch in a small package and it's kinda of sad to see it with a mobile OS that can't really use it fully.

But each one has their needs, I guess I sounded a bit harsh there, sorry.

Still, it'll be some time before you have it stable on android I think, at least with everything working
[Windows 8 General] AlvaroRos:
I also had problems with windows 10 but I did a fresh install using a bootable usb with rufus, upgraded the bios to the latest modded bios by wootever (thanks again) and installed his drivers pack and now windows runs perfectly for me. I don't know what your problem is but I think is not windows fault so I honestly hope you can solve it. I do not know much but if you give some details about that chashing issue maybe somone could help you.
[Windows 8 General] skippie17700:
My big problem is that i can't boot up from the usb stick (tried 4) to do a clean install, so i'm stuck with the very unstable windows 10 that is installed.

I tried every possible program to make the stick bootable, all invain.

I didn't upgrade the bios for the simple reason that that also failed to do or maybe i did something wrong with installing another bios, don't know, I didn't get an answer to how to update the bios. So I still have the stock bios.

I bought a genuine windows 10 with key and installed it on different usb sticks, but none is booting. (tried Rufus many times).

Rufus 1.4.12, Rufus 1.4.3, Rufus 2.5, Rufus 2.6, tried them all, no booting from USB.
[Windows 8 General] tprata:
I tried with unetbootin and failed, but had great success with this one. Ignore the name, it works with the w10 iso. As for the bios, it's easy, simply download the file from the first page, unzip it into a folder (or desktop), and double click. It asks for admin permissions, makes a backup of your bios, and asks you to accept to start the process. It's super simple really
[Windows 8 General] skippie17700:
ok, i managed to upgrade the new bios.

Couldn't install windows 10 on the USB with windows USB/DVD download tool, USB not good it said.

Installed windows 10 with Rufus 2.6 again. but after chosing the USB in bios the tablet is stuck at the cursor (not blinking) in the top left, nothing else happens.

So again, no go.
[Windows 8 General] tprata:
What's the size of the usb drive, and file system? Have you tried with a different drive?

Also, are you using any usb hub at the same time? I remember that I have one that simply won't connect my hdd, it can be messing with your drive if that's the case.
[Windows 8 General] skippie17700:
16 GB and with fat32

tried 4 different USB sticks

USB connected straight to the PC

I would be saved if I could do a clean install, but won't let me boot from USB

I also tried to install with Magic ISo
[Windows 8 General] tprata:
No usb hub? Can't remember if it will let you install to an NTFS drive , still try to format it to NTFS and run the tool.

Also, trying to install w10 x64?