[Windows 8 General] Aicene:
Those who are interest in translation from 4PDA, here are like draft of it :cool: With Google Translate help:laugh: I didn't put a links and pics.

Recently, I improved cooling of my Stylus. Standard cooling is made of aluminum sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm and has a weight 8.5gramm. Between processor and plate 0.3mm thermal pad, thermal pad on top of the plate thickness of 1 mm on the cover. Totally 1.8mm thickness for creativity. On xdaforums.com here and here cooling were produced by two copper plates of different thickness: the first, more thick, 1 mm was contact with the processor and a thinner 0.6mm on the top (1.6mm total). The first are screwed with standard (2 mm long) screws to the support posts. The second has enlarged holes for screw heads glued to the first plate with glue. The second plate is not limited by the elements on the board, so the holes there are not needed. 0.5mm thermal pad go to top. Total turns 2.1mm.

I left general principle, but something has changed. Both 0.8mm thick plates of copper (to get the same amount of 1.6mm). Use longer screws, 3mm in length, to fasten through, as well as second plate. There are thermal compound between plates. Considering using 0.5mm thermal pad on the top. Due to the fact that the distance from the board to the elements of the second plate was reduced to 0.2 mm (compared to the option xdaforums.com), it became mandatory to make the holes for the elements of the board, as in the standard plate. The thickness of cooling turns 2.1mm, against the standard 1.8mm. Due to the difference in thermo pad compression 0.3mm it seems not critical. I do not advise make it thicker. Although the motherboard and has a clearance for the deflection in the direction to the screen (in the eyes of about 0.5mm), but do not forget, that this will increase the pressure on the screen. In practice, 1 mm thermo pad usage allows close the lid, but the screen may begin to stick to the protective glass, and will need to use the suction cup regularly.

0.8mm thick copper plate and 100mm to 100mm in size I bought here. Delivery took three weeks. Manufacturing is good, real size are 101 x 101mm. I use this layout.

That allowed from one plate of 100 x 100 make two elements. During the manufacturing process a little bit (at 1 mm of tolerance - it is a lot :)) missed up with the upper right screw hole and the first hole to the lower right of the second plate – unpleasant fault, but, thank God, was not critical. Holes are 1.5mm diameter. At the bottom of the second plate glued conventional adhesive film to isolate elements from the board. The weight of all copper design got about 50 grams, ie tablet weight growth by as much as 41.5 grams :)

0.5mm thermo pad from Ali did not come yet, so collected all without it. Before upgrading at maximum load (NFS Most Wanted 2012 at the highest setting) tablet after 15min is heated to 91 degrees even in a case, even without (measured AIDA 64). After modernization, the absence of the thermo pad to the housing, in a case at maximum load greater than 80 does not rise even after half an hour. Back cover warm up is much more evenly. And subjectively think that more. But because in the past the area around the processor was very hot, but not around. Now, half of tablet is heated up to almost the same average value, and take tablet as before, "slightly above or slightly below, so it was not so hot" it can’t be. I think with thermal pad will be more evenly heating, that’s mean cover a little cool down.

Also check some things. The second connector for Wi-Fi antenna does not work as written on the website. Connect POGO connector to an external hard without any problems, so initially connector amperage is pretty decent. This I mean, to the fact that there have been complaints that the USB at the keyboard dock, which more than 200mA not given. Well, the most interesting.

Full-sized USB

The distance between the sections of the speakers exactly 40mm. If you move the battery from the edge, we get a distance of 14mm. It is sufficient for the installation of the USB connector after some refinement.

13mm USB width, just as if solder two USB enclosure with the part of third, we obtain as a result 39mm. Whittle down connector’s front and back, trim the length of the legs. Cut off the plastic edge between the speakers on the tablet, boosted with piece of plastic 10 x 12mm to the correct height for the mounting element, which will be between connectors. Used dichloroethane as glue. I picked up two small screws, drill two holes for mounting. Fasten jacks. Pasted sealing tape on connectors and then press down by the back cover.

Mark the back cover and made two holes in it. Drill, by Dremel. Then processed with needle file. Height for a connector - exactly on the edge of the sloping verge and to the brilliant 1 mm chamfer.

Now you need to choose USB hub no thicker than 4 mm (more in the case does not fit), remove connectors from it, push in the housing and solder all the wires to the POGO loop and USB connectors. Wherein unsolder this trail of POGO connector. From POGO loop wires go to the hub and from the hub to USB connectors. Who need connect POGO to a keyboard - can lead wire on POGO connector from the hub. The color pin out enclose.

It remains to cut holes in the cover for USB and enjoy!