yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Mine makes a clicking sound and seems to return after being pressed. However, comparing it to the volume buttons (which look to be the same switch going by the teardown pictures I've seen), it does sound and feel slightly less "crisp".

Yea, completely stock, since I was flashing the phone over to PP before doing anything else.

I was kind of hoping someone on stock or modified stock would come in and test it for me; hold the button down for a good 10-20 seconds, see what happens. It's not supposed to happen, but I've read elsewhere online that it's one of the symptoms of a sticky button.

Curiously, the Volume- key seems to be working perfectly, sounds and feels like I would expect.

I actually have some "QR Electrical Cleaner" here that I obtained from Walmart a while back...unfortunately someone lost the nozzle, so I can't get a concentrated blast down around the switch stem :\

Wedging the plastic external button aside and spraying it in the general direction of the top of the switch doesn't seem to have done anything, unfortunately. I think these switches are probably semi-sealed unless in the pressed position, which is going to make things interesting...

And yes, you're right, doing anything further would technically void the warranty. Thinking about it, though, I actually did get a pretty good deal; the phone is obviously a return from a customer who found the problem early on, as it's basically new in condition with a completely unscratched screen. Even if I can't get the button working right, the phone wakes up with the keyboard, and a notification widget puts it to sleep...and if the button isn't used to wake it, it doesn't seem to stick (or at least register as it), so the phone continues working properly. So, a mostly-perfect phone, for all of $27.50, with the potential to be perfect.

Once my screen protector gets here and I'm not afraid of scratching the glass up, I think I'll open it and see what I can find out. It should be easy enough to short the contacts at the rear of the switch and see that the board is working properly; if so, then I can go hunting for a compatible switch. I can't seem to find any direct replacements, unfortunately.

Which reminds me, any guesses as to why there are three poles on the switch rather than two?

Edit: nevermind, looking at pictures it seems that the two "outer" pins attach to the common pad on the board, while the center pin is attached to the appropriate circuitry.
[Motorola Droid 4] LuH:
Sounds like a swan's song...

Luckily I just fastbooted mine :) Completely stock 188, only rooted and with SS installed - which should make no difference. To my complete surprise, while holding the power down, it shows the Power menu after 2 secs and forcibly reboots after 10 seconds. So I guess your only problem is the power button :good:

Great catch :) If you find another, let me know ;)

I actually bought one two years ago while buying mine D4 to have the whole package stuffed with all imaginable replacement parts sent from the US - postage to Europe was about 1/3 of the whole price. I never used any of the replacement parts yet, guess I got lucky :) I don't have it on me now though...

My guess is in some other devices the switch may switch between two circuits, not just break/connect the circuit. I think most of the switches I saw had the unnecessary third leg. Also it may help it hold tighter to the PCB.
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Awesome, thank you! Now I don't have to strip it down until I have a new switch in hand...though I'm still tempted to, just for fun. Strange that the phone can be rebooted by only holding the power button, though.

Certainly. FYI, the seller I got it it from is named "soonersoft" if you want to use ebay's Follow Seller thing, by the looks of their listings they seem to mainly do business in items returned under warranty for damage/defects.

I've been thinking about it, and even if I could find a 1:1 replacement, it might be better to just replace it with an entirely different, more common switch. Having looked it up, power switch failures aren't incredibly frequent, but they are enough that I would rather have a more reliable (or at least, cheaper to replace), more standard design. Ebay is full of cheap bulk lots of microswitches, just gotta find one small enough.

Yea, maybe. I just had the thought that it might alternatively be a dual-stage switch (e.g. as are used for cameras), with one of the stages disabled or defective to the extent that it could only be sold as a single-stage switch. Such would be a good way to get rid of components that would otherwise be garbage.

Whichever it is, it seems to me that such a small switch with so many moving parts inside, in a location and with a role that it sees a lot of use and abuse, is just asking for trouble...that the problem isn't more widespread is a testament to the quality of the switch manufacturer's design and assembly, I guess.

Regardless, it looks like only a dual-pole switch is actually needed, so that considerably widens the range of possibilities.

Thanks for the assistance, it has been invaluable. Now I can continue loading up and enjoying my phone without worrying that it's going to suddenly drop dead...well, more than the usual worrying, anyway :p
[Motorola Droid 4] LuH:
I know your feelings, even though I waited for a first issue to rationalize opening it up, which was only this summer, after almost two years. I'm still a student and the phone was ****load of money for me. Now that they are so cheap (and I don't see any potential replacement on the market as QWERTY devices vaporized) I'm not that cautious.

BTW most breakdown instructions or videos specify you'll only need T5 screwdriver but if you want to disassemble the display part as well, which you will need to, you'll need T3 as well (T4 still kinda fits to the screws, but it's T3). When you slide the diplay (or keyboard, depending on your point of view) out, you can see the small screws next to the outer rim.

Also, the phone heavily relies on adhesive - be sure to have plenty and be aware that after first opening the see-through plastic piece with rear camera, flash LED, hole for opening the back door and with two screws underneath will never look the same, you'll be lucky to have it somehow stick with most parts looking OK. I never saw anywhere replacement for this printed adhesive, the "HD 720p" sign gets semi-destroyed when opening it...

Thanks :)

Or you can do it the hardcore and noticeable way I used to fix out old home LCD monitor's faulty power switch - solder wires to the PCB, take it out the hole left after the switch plastic and solder to them a switch of your choosing that will hang outside the phone... You can tell people that it's an antenna that helps with bad reception in your area ;)

Not likely IMO. This was marketed as luxurious device, I don't think they'd do it. Also the new switch isn't as expensive I guess, especially compared to all the advanced electronics inside.

Yup, I never understood how microswitches, especially those used in mouses, could take so much...

I'm glad I helped :) Enjoy your "brand new" slider :D
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Good to know. As it turns out, I don't have anything below a T6 or 7, so no adventures in disassembly for me today.

Fond memories of stripping my Ally down to the digitizer come back to me; everything simply snaps or bolts together and there's nary a drop of glue to be seen :<

I wonder if I can eyeball pictures of a removed plastic bit and use a straightblade bit to simply "drill" through mine to the screws...will have to keep it in mind when I evenetually open it up.

Any suggestions on what kind of glue to get? All I have around are hot glue and Gorilla Glue, neither of which strike me as particularly appropriate for this sort of thing.

The sad thing is, I would have actually done this with my first flip-phone. Heck, my current computer is a collection of loosely-assembled parts kind of haphazardly spread out on a nearby endtable, so I can say I would definitely do this to a phone ; \

Yes, a luxurious device with a Pentile TFT display, non-removable battery, entirely plastic casing and no dedicated camera button :v

There's no denying that it's a nice phone, but I see a lot of cut corners; what's another one that the majority of users will be fortunate enough to never notice?
[Motorola Droid 4] LuH:
I too hate this adhesive hell :(

I was thinking the same. Don't know what straightblade is, but I wouldn't recommend any blade - the plastic is pretty thick. My plan would be to really cautiously drill it by an actual power drill. There's a bit of space between screws and the plastic piece, so I think it's safe to drill.

Double-sided adhesive tape :) I bought cheap 3mm wide one off eBay, works like charm. Also I thought they say it's 3M as in 3 meters long, but actually got a 3M branded one, possibly 3 meters long :)

I don't see how it's a bad thing :D The phone would look badass :)

True...
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Sorry, what I was referring to was a flat-edge screwdriver bit, in the same style as one of these for example. A small, sharp one makes a surprisingly good boring tool once you get it started.

Ah, double-sided tape. I probably would have gone for rubber cement or somesuch, but this is a much better idea...far less messy.

And cats everywhere would instantly be huge fans of it.
[Motorola Droid 4] LuH:
That's an interesting idea :)

I tried it and turns out while it works great for the main body (the first frame that probably wouldn't even need it in the first place), the tape I bought is a disaster for the digitizer. Since there is a pressure contact for the ear speaker being pressed by the adhesive connection only, it gets pressed away all the time. I got to re-assemble it with new tape every like two or three weeks, which is unbearable. Any alternative idea? I don't think we have rubber cement here - tried to google it and it seems it's used only in the US. I don't want to use any solution that's too permanent though - the time may come when I shatter the glass and need to replace it.

Also the display screws may actually be T4 - it seems my T3 and T4 screwdrivers are a tad more thick than they are supposed to be, compared to my brother's bit more expensive set.
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Hmm.

I haven't taken mine apart yet - waiting on soldering wick so I can replace the power button with minimal mess - and wasn't planning on stripping it down that far anyway, so all I have to look at is the teardown guide. It looks to me like you could:

Press in the screen glass at the top to where it's supposed to be (to align the speaker with the frame as best as possible)

Get some sort of thin material to fill in/bridge the gap between the sides of the speaker and the frame

Inject a small amount of superglue into the gaps between frame/material/speaker

Finding something to bridge the gaps shouldn't be too difficult, anything will work (the superglue will just soak and make it rock hard anyway), it's only there so there's not enough of a gap for the superglue to shrink and void as it dries.

Just don't use enough glue that it works its way down to the glass, or it'll be a pain to detach later.

Like so (blue: spacer/shim, red: glue):

Alternatively, gluing the speaker directly to the board it interfaces with (using a small shim between them to make room for the contacts)...but the positioning might be trickier to get right.

'course, these both have the problem of being rather permanent...and while I haven't read that there are widespread problems with the ear speaker going out, it does seem to occasionally happen. I just don't really know of any adhesives that are both strong enough to hold without eventually coming apart, and weak enough to be somewhat easily removed if needed : \

I bought a cheap set off ebay that includes T3-T6, so I should be good to go for when I eventually get around to opening the whole thing up (it is certain to happen at some point, if for no other reason than curiosity). At the moment I'm just enjoying customizing SlimKat and playing with the phone; it's so much more able in every way than the old LG I came from, it's ridiculous. Curiosity can, in this case, wait a while~
[Motorola Droid 4] LuH:
Well, I think when I bought the phone in summer 2012 I was like "cool, the only known issue is not showing up in my unit", and almost two years later when earpiece problems started, I was like "****, it finally caught me"...

The idea of hard-fixing the earpiece is nice, I actually thought of it before. I'd love it to be fixed to the PCB, thinking of some non-sticky insulation to be put between the earpiece and the digitizer. It's holding really tight on the digitizer though. I'll see what I can do when I open it up next time - I fixed it this Saturday, so I think it should hold itself somehow at least till the weekend :D

I was thinking of soldering it to PCB, but was quite scared of messing it up. Super glue is interesting alternative idea :) But I'm a bit afraid that it will tear the PCB's top layer apart when being pushed away continuously by the pressure contacts. I'll probably first try gluing it to the frame as you indicated in the picture and see then :) Hope I'll get to send pictures here, although it's a hard thing to do with a phone (my only camera) taken apart...
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Paper~

alternatively, thinner and clear, plastic/saran wrap. Stick it down in there, then simply tear the little bit out that covers the speaker hole (or probably easier and cleaner, take a craft knife to it).

That's a good point, PCB pads aren't strong at all (found that out while pulling a replacement switch off another phone, which is why I'm waiting on wick; don't want to tear my traces up).

I'd like to propose a combination alternative, then

Get some of your double-sided tape, stick a small strip to where the speaker sits on the PCB, try not to get stuck to it

Find a pair of lengths of small-gauge wire, an inch apiece should be enough

On each side, solder one wire to the copper interface pads

Using a small pair of wire snips, snip off the sprung sections of the contacts on the earpiece speaker, leaving enough to solder to

Solder the other ends of the wires to the remainder of the contacts on the speaker

Carefully align the speaker with the PCB, and stick it to the double-sided tape

Finally, tuck the wires out of the way so they don't get pinched and severed when the front assembly is bolted back on

The double-sided tape should be under little to no strain, so it ought to be fine for this task. The digitizer won't be receiving spring pressure from the speaker anymore, so it should stay put. Everything should be oK.

The only potential problems I can think of are that the lack of a seal between digitizer and speaker might reduce the earpiece volume somewhat, and the extra sound movement in the top of the phone casing might have some interesting interactions with the second mic up top.

Of course, this is only if you decide to add something to insulate/destick the digitizer, which actually might not be necessary without the glass being sprung outwards all the time.

It's completely reversible regardless (just need a new speaker and clean up the solder and tape on the PCB), so...might be a better alternative than just straight gluing everything together.
[Motorola Droid 4] LuH:
So after all I came up with an alternative solution: since I succeeded on fastening the digitizer with two layers of adhesive tape so well it still holds together for over two months now, I just needed to make the contacts hold so I don't lose the earpiece sound when they don't. The contact for pressure pins is actually not on display's PCB, but on a T-shaped strip of metal, attached to the display, so I just bent the arms in and it works like charm since :)
[Motorola Droid 4] Septfox:
Heh, two layers.

Glad to hear you got it worked out. Now I know what to do in the (hopefully unlikely) event that I ever have this issue.

For my end of things, my adventures in power button repair have unfortunately met a disappointing end; the power button completely quit working for normal functions shortly after my last post. The tools I ordered came in, I opened up the phone and tried shorting the leads on the button, to make sure it was indeed the button that was bad. Nothing, nada, no response. I then performed some exploratory surgery on the button (as I have a suitable replacement sitting here), and found it to be of a somewhat simple, rugged design (typical metal-dome design, center pops down to make contact, sides/pins 1 and 3 are common). No manufacturing faults evident.

Working theory is that somewhere in the circuit that it completes, there is a defect. A component that overheated each time the button was used until the point of complete failure, perhaps. Curiously, the button (or rather the pads, no more button at this point) can still be used in combination with Volume - to reset the device. It just...won't respond to normal short/longpresses. I'd imagine there's another trace that splits off before the defective component, leading to the Volume - button and creating a sort of hardware AND condition that triggers a reboot.

Don't know. Don't have the knowledge, nor the equipment, to really diagnose it properly, let alone affect repairs. Guess I'm stuck with popping the keyboard open to wake it until the glorious day that the Droid 5 comes around~
[Galaxy S 5 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] bobby2x420:
I seem to have lost some of the little 16gb's I had. seems like after pressing security mode I am only showing 10.3GM of internal memory. Anyone know what up with this? I have tried searching the forum, but getting error msg's trying to find the answer....

I do have on safestrap, but think this happened befor i installed it. not 100% sure.
[Galaxy S 5 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] thatsupnow:
10.3GM or 10.3GB? And that seems normal you don't get to use ALL 16GB. The "lost" space is reserved for system
[Galaxy S 5 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] SuperGirlSteph:
are you referring to "private mode" with the security mode you are talking about? yeah it seems to format a little over 4GB for the "private" encrypted folder, I recently rooted and installed cyanogen and now I seem to have lost that 4GB completely it only shows 11.3gb of total internal memory. If you turn private mode on and plug into a computer does it show 4GB approximately for private and the other 11.x for internal storage? trying to find out if I wipe everything in twrp if I'll brick my phone or be able to reformat internal storage to one partition and have all 16 back minus the little bit that gets eaten up but should still be 14.5 15gb of total storage space granted it wont all be available.
[X 2014 General] bkfitz:
FYI: this only works for texts sent to your actual phone number... Not to any Google Voice numbers. Bummer.
[X 2014 General] l_stevens:
Has anybody found a solution for this?
[X 2014 General] Shadowdancer123:
I emailed Motorola a few weeks back about adding support for more languages, as I like the feature, but people don't generally text me in English..

No reply yet though, so I'll probably email them again.

If I remember, I'll mention support for third party apps too, messenger support would be nice.

I doubt they read this forum, so email them you lot too. =)
[Framaroot] fsj40:
Ive tried to get it to work on my sgh-1747 4.1.2. However no luck. Can you please get it to work. Ive been wanting to root for along time, without any hassel. I wanted the cyanogenmodinstaller but I have windows xp please help.
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] :
Q&A for Root Galaxy Alpha

Some developers prefer that questions remain separate from their main development thread to help keep things organized. Placing your question within this thread will increase its chances of being answered by a member of the community or by the developer. Thanks for understanding and for helping to keep XDA neat and tidy! :smile:
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] Kaycee Aguilar:
SM-G850Y

I have the SM-G850Y - can anyone tell me if I can use any of the 850s or do I need to wait for my actual G850Y? Sorry I am a virgin in ROOTING! ;)
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] hensk:
maybe we should ask Koush/phils or other developerfrom samsung forums hire to make us CWM
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] skin:
Any custom recovery?

Xposed work?
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] abhi chahal:
Okay finally rooted my alpha 850y using the chainfire root file of alpha 850f .. worked fine . Got supersu , disable knox and counter 0 . Not yellow triangle
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] sdmfer:
Congrats. Do you have a us or Canadian alpha.?
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] Jaybell4444:
Congrats brother. Now just waiting for the root or recovery for the G850A!!! AT&T Version. :(
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] nicche:
Hi, abhi chahal! ( sorry for my bad english).

Recently i've bought an alpha 850f.... can you explain me how to root it ? if I understand correctly the knox counter remain at 0 ? Is it right?

Because I have a macbook I can't use odin software, for now I used the terminal to flash : recovery, Rom etc...I have a Nexus S.
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] psenseny:
Lolipop is available OTA for Att 850a. I am downloading now....hope this update comes with an unlocked boot loader making root possible!
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] nrg_52:
Did anyone try kingroot? Is it work/what about knox flag?

Küldve az én SM-G850F-emről
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] AltarOfMyEgo:
Hi,

You can easily root your Galaxy Alpha by flashing CF-Auto root with Odin.
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] nrg_52:
Thanx, i try kingroot myself. It works great, knox still 0x0:)

Küldve az én SM-G850F-emről
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] panosfx:
Works with lollipop too?I mean knox is still 0x0 even with 5.0.2?
[Samsung Galaxy Alpha] nrg_52:
2 hungarian forum member test it, but it is not working with 5.02:(

Küldve az én SM-G850F-emről
[JAM, MDA Compact, S100 General] HellraiserUK:
OK, I'm a ****.

Just came to remove my audio daughter board off my M500 to solder up the dodgy joints on it, and the whole bloody connector came off. I've removed the connector from the daughter board, but when attempting to resolder it, I managed to break the connector :(

So, I need a source of the little rectangular PCB connector (14 way, DIL) that attaches the ADB to the main board, so I can have another go :) Anyone know a source in the UK preferably?

Cheers

Hellraiser.............>
[Samsung Galaxy S Duos 2] riteshsaxena:
Hello Guys,

I am frustrated by using the laggy interface of touchwiz and wants to try something faster.

Can anyone find a cyanogenmod rom for my samsung because i am new to flashing, etc.

and please guide me the way to do that. Plz Help Me.
[Samsung Galaxy S Duos 2] tiidigital:
gt-7582 cm11

That would be just awesome.. wouldn't it?
[Samsung Galaxy S Duos 2] V3T_N:
did u find one:(
[Samsung Galaxy S Duos 2] OsniNO:
Choose one

CM 11

CM 12.1
[Verizon LG G2] johker216:
According to official device troubleshooting from VZW, devices that were identified has having issues with SMS/MMS were fixed with the 25b update. However, there is a persistent issue with MMS not being sent. It was clarifies that even with WiFi on, MMS still are going to be sent over the VZW data network. This means that if you have your data network turn off when WiFi is connected, your MMS will have issues being sent. This is currently working as designed and I don't see any information that a future update will change this behavior (this shouldn't surprise anyone who read that VZW doesn't support MMS through Google Voice).
[RAZR HD Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Caliburno:
Phone is an XT926 and i bought it used but with the original firmware (4.1.2) and no signal of odd play with it's rom.

Now when i try to flash custom roms, CWM tells the rom is for certain models but my phone is nothing. (it tells " " -a space between quotation marks- )

The only one i could flash is slimrom, but now i'm trying some others and this strange message appears not letting me flash anything but slimrom.

Is there any way to write some file somewhere to recover whatever signature my phone is missing? Or may this be a CWM bug i got?

Is CWM 6048

Thanks for your time.