yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] Bokomaru:
It looks like fine, though you can't really see closely if the leads are shorted at all. There are two leads in that cable, the center conductor and the outer braid.

I'd say if your signal is really that bad you should try to get it repaired/replaced under warranty or try something yourself. On my test setup (and every unit that I've tested so far) I've had very good signal to my AP and can see another 10 networks from my neighbors.
[Android Head-Units] supremekizzle:
I'm going to go out on a limb here and venture that my warranty is a little bit void now. Hardware mod is probably my only choice.
[Android Head-Units] kwalsh24:
My flickering isn't constant.... Its random. One boot up it will work properly till the next. The next the screen will randomly roll flicker. Not a constant flicker. Which then also sends feedback out the speakers no matter what source I'm using. I'll dig into it more when I go do install the usb hub when all my parts come for the project.
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
I second that its very hard to see it the to conductors are shorted.

Personally i would re-term both ends to be sure just do the end that looks the worst first and test b4 trying the 2nd end. But only if you are confident with the soldering iron.

I was also the same 1 to 2 bars when directly beside the router
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Hey guys can anybody tell me what dpi settings they are using to make torque fit properly on screen?

When i use xposed "app settings" and set it to 160dpi. It looks like everything fits apart from the images/dials still seem to be out of proportion.

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] supremekizzle:
Yes I can solder well. However, there are 3 pads with the inner cable going to the pad in the middle and the outer (the huge chunk of solder) I'm unsure where it should terminate. I have a very strong router (ac68u) but the box doesn't even see the network from ~25 feet away when my phone has full bars. When I park in my lawn at a distance of ~10 feet, the box will connect to the network, but it's a very slow, unstable connection. I just want to mod it so I can get semi-decent speeds. Downloading apps that are 20MB shouldn't take 15 minutes.
[Android Head-Units] denhuff:
NU5002 on 2006 Chrysler 300c - pac interface- factory amplifier

hi

i bought myself a NU5002 because of the 8" screen to put it in my Chtysler 300c.

took some time to make the bezel fit , but it looks fine now

the PAC interface toke a few days to deliver in Europe, so i took the time to go throug this forum en tested the HU inside my house to see how everything works

i didn't want to root/replace rom so i went with some other lauchers and now i use nova-launcher , which does the job for me

iám testing Sygid and Navigon as navigation, both work great

thanks to JKCHR1S i hooked up the Pac interface, so i could use the steeringwheel buttons

in the key-editor i could read the can codes, so i use the short and long press option from the Pac interface

some codes are realy close to eachother so they could'nt be used but i manage to get 9 working , (there are only 6 buttons)

now i have "home" "play" and "mute" extra (home has double function in nova-launcher)

i needed "home" as button, because some apps are fulscreen and the 8"doesn't have the buttons on the side

"play" starts Power Player, because i stopped musicplayer in apps settings

hopefuly there comes a way to use "dailer" as the main phone app

next will be a front and a back camera

for now iám happy with this HU and thanks for al the info in this forum, been reading alot and learned more

my question is, if ther is a way to use the fornt cam (video in) as the main camera?

i wanna use it as a dashcam, or do i need an usb cam?
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
Hi guys,

Just added an option that i'm calling connected standby mode.

This allows you to set a delay on when airplane mode is turned on after the unit goes to sleep. Good for those of you who want apps to be able to use wifi after turning off the car.

The delay can be set in the MCU update app on the standby page.
[Android Head-Units] usafle:
That's exactly what happened to my Pandora app. Although 160 looks more "crisp" on some apps, it really messed with a lot of apps.

My build prop editor program was supposed to have made a backup of my original. However, it did not. Any idea what the default dpi was? I have to switch back. The cons aren't outweighing the pros on the new dpi setting.
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
240
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Thanks for the replies, i have attached a photo of torque with its normal dpi of 240 but the home screen dial is not right, is it like this for everyone else? That was my reason for just changing torque dpi to 160 via xposed app settings
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
I wonder if it's related to your font size? I've got mine set to normal and Torque looked ok.
[Android Head-Units] Tuatara:
It is very hard to see much in the photo (blurry & I would need very close-up detail to see if there were any breaks). Check for the following:

- The center wire must be 'coated/shielded' by plastic up to the board, and nothing can touch this wire along the way - i.e. the outside braid must be completely separate.

- Look at the solder point - is there any 'pitting' (i.e. a dark spot) or does the solder blob pinch downward where it joins the wire? If so, then you may just have a bad solder joint.

- Check that the braid has not been melted into the plastic inner shield. This can happen if the assembly was poor, and the braid soldering job took too long and got too hot and was pulled when assembled.

- Similarly - check the other end, on the patch PCB - ensure that the braid and core are cleanly soldered and separated.

- Check the edges of the PCB antenna - is there any copper on the edges from being cut badly? Mine was roughly cut, but worked fine.

- Check that there are no breaks on the PCB traces - especially at the solder pads. If there has been force on the pads, and they have been lifted - the pad may still be 'stuck' or held on the PCB, but the actual copper trace is no longer making contact.

- The actual antenna length/solder position/coax length/etc. isn't critical to achieve "good" reception.

If you have very bad reception (1 bar, next to the WiFi AP), it means the WiFi hardware is operational and functioning ... and you will most likely have a short on the antenna somewhere. Check with a voltmeter between the core and the braid. When measured it should be non-zero - i.e. not the same value as when you connect the ends of the meter together. A zero would mean a short in the antenna.

Unfortunately in assembly lines, it's always the "human in the loop" which is the source of failures. The PCB reflow is done in a controlled oven, so a bad connector mounting should be very rare - might just need a slight adjustment on the heating times. The human soldering on the antenna though? They are prone to making many errors.

Putting the antenna outside of the box will help somewhat with the screen jumping issue (induced noise reduces by 1/d^2), as will moving/hanging it outside and putting some foil tape/shield in between.

Amplification can't be easily done - that's hardware. The best you can do is to replace the antenna with one with a higher gain (the dB rating of an antenna). I'm using an indoor +5dB Gain antenna. The patch PCB one might have +2dB or so. Every +3dB doubles the effective radiated output.

Hopefully you will be able to see something, or can measure a short on the antenna. That would explain your issues.
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
I have tried ever setting possible (i think so) in xposed app settings and in torque itself but to no avail. Can you cofirm which settings you are talking about.

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
Doing this from memory because i'm at work, but:

Android settings / Display / Font Size / Normal
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Dammmmm.... sounded to easy of a fix.

Still No joy tried multiple font options but it changed nothing to the main screen layout. I have re-installed several times along with wiping all left over data but no joy.

Really pissing me of now!!!
[Android Head-Units] duckstardeluxe:
That is a great mod. It even creates a way to sit at the PC inside the house, using Play Store and install apps in real time.

Maybe a way to differentiate so only Wifi is kept running? With BT my phone will keep connection even in parts of my house.

I know i can use tasker or locale for that though.

Thanks man.

Sendt fra min SM-G920F med Tapatalk
[Android Head-Units] x5nder:
If I change the references from internal_sd to external_sd and reboot/restart, TomTom changes the references back to internal_sd. Even if I make the files read-only, the TomTom GO-app actually keeps telling me there is no space for the maps and shows the amount of internal memory left.

Weird and frustrating. Any ideas? :(

---------- Post added at 09:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 AM ----------

Also... is there anyone who can quickly compile an xdAuto helper APK for me? I need one for GoneMad Music Player, package name = gonemad.gmmp

Tried myself but can't make it to a fully working APK... I just don't have the skills & knowledge to do this. Would be great if someone could help me out with this.
[Android Head-Units] Zaphod-Beeblebrox:
Mine has always looked like that. I rarely use it, so never thought much about it.
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Thanks for confirming for me.... was going off my nut thinking it was just me.

Maybe this is only on the 8" nu5002 units?
[Android Head-Units] f(x):
here you go...created by following ZapHod's instruction from post#5381. I haven't tried it but it should work.
[Android Head-Units] guap:
:good: follow this step :)

install app

install a small map (new zeland?) in internal memory

change references

move Android/Data/tomtom.gplay.navapp folder to external_sd

start tomtom

let it crash, in loop :silly: kill it after about 30 sec

change references again (1 more reference will appear in navui.settings! 3 total now)

restart tomtom and it will work.

Now you have the small map working on external_sd and all new map will be installed to external :cool: Currently installed full europe with this trick

shame on tomtom to not provide a regular procedure to switch map memory :mad:
[Android Head-Units] Danny.69:
You could create one for me? For application, MortPlayer music? I have no knowledge to do so
[Android Head-Units] x5nder:
Thank you so much! Will test it out tonight -- I think my main problem was that I have no idea how to sign the APK :)
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
Just a quick warning to anyone messing around with the code. Be very careful about messing with the KeyEditor.

The last couple of days i've stopped my steering wheel controls working and even flashing an older previously working version and clearing the codes hasn't brought them back.

I'm hoping that reflashing the MCU will bring them back.
[Android Head-Units] zanix:
I have my DPI set to 213 and it looks ok on mine.
[Android Head-Units] DragonFlye:
After the above mentioned step, navui.settings has only one reference left instead of three:

<string name="com.tomtom.navui.setting.AsrDefaultDataDirectory">/mnt/internal_sd/Android/data/com.tomtom.gplay.navapp/files/files/asr/</string>

Could you post the other two references

Thx
[Android Head-Units] VBlack:
Hi, this is very good! I just think about something similar. What is the maximum delay? Could it be the same as "Standby time". I really want to set it to One day (same as for standby).

By the way, do you have a chance to measure current consumption during such "Connected stand-by"?
[Android Head-Units] Bokomaru:
I think we can make some changes to the times. I'd rather have it be more 5,15,30,60 min, and infinite.

I did measure the power draw before and posted the numbers in an earlier post. I'll see if I can dig them up. It was definitely higher than normal standby, but if there is no network activity then it is reduced.

Edit: From http://xdaforums.com/android-auto/a...smy-carpad-t2865525/post61091800#post61091800
[Android Head-Units] guap:
I dont have my box in my hands now but I remember something related to VoiceTTS or sure... *maybe* I get myself confused about the other entry in com.tomtom.navui.mobilesystemport.external.path.directory.xml... Sorry but I wrote my first reply without having my device to check

You can try anyway and see if more strings appears later.
[Android Head-Units] ted0:
Always blue square in rkBatchTool after replugging USB

Hello,

i have a problem with booting my android box. Currently it is unusable for me.

After sucessfully flashing xdAuto 1.1.6c using rkBatchTool, xdAuto starts without any issues. But when i disconnect the USB connection (the android box is powered only via this connection) and then reconnect it i always get the blue square in the rkBatchTool and no HDMI output.

As long as is leave the USB connected after flashing xdAuto, everything works fine. I can even reboot via the app and via adb.

I have the same problem with update-1.1.4.3- tuatara.img, too. I tried flashing via the Upgrade and the Restore button.

If i connect it to the head unit in the car, it does not start, either.

Can anyone help me?
[Android Head-Units] guap:
hold down the reset button

hook your box to your pc

It should connect in download mode ready to be flashed via rktool :)

also, install tuatara via rk (using RESTORE, not update) and then install xdauto via recovery in .zip format, do not flash xdauto via rk.
[Android Head-Units] ted0:
Thanks guap, but nothing changed. I followed your process and sucessfully flashed first tuatara and then upgraded to xdauto via recovery zip. But as in my previous attempts, after is disconnect the power (via USB) and reconnect, the box does not boot. rkBatchTool only shows a blue square. I can reflash without any problems (without holding the reset button). But after i disconnect the power and reconnect the box does not boot.

I even tried flashing the stock rom 1.1.4 (via rkBatch upgrade), but i ran into the same problems. :crying:

So:

Flashing works

Running Android works (without disconnecting the power after flashing)

Cutting the power and rebooting the device does not work (tested with stock 1.1.4, tuatara and xdAuto)

---------- Post added at 10:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------

So, more information about my issue:

When i load the loader RK3188Loader(L)_V2.19.bin into the RAM at address 0 and click EraseIDB in RKAndroidTool v1.37 the device boots.

It seems to me that there is no valid loader in the flash. That is why the device stays in MaskROM mode.

Anyone knows how to fix that?
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Thanks mate but no joy.... r u using 7" or 8"?
[Android Head-Units] zanix:
My system DPI is set to 213. I may also have a per-app DPI set as well, I will have to look after work.

I have the NU3001 (7")
[Android Head-Units] deeznutz1977:
this is torque on my note edge.
[Android Head-Units] DragonFlye:
No worries...

There must be some other step or tweak you've installed PRIOR to installing TomTom. Could be firmware related. I'm running Tuatara's Rom. Maybe you're running stock or another.

Anyway, data + map (NZ) has been moved to the external SD card, changes have been made to the .xml file.

As soon as TomTom starts, values in the xml will default to internal_sd, the Program starts, rums me through the first steps, tries to load the map and then loops. Quiting and rehanging the .xml files doesn't help
[Android Head-Units] guap:
I'm on xdauto 1.1.6c... At the second boot no precedures, just loop. At this point, cant you try to make a symlink with a more common name for sdcard like "sdcard1" or something similar? Just saying...

http://linux-rockchip.info/mw/index.php?title=Boot_Sequences#MASKROM_Mode

maybe a faulty cable put your device in this permanent state?
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Thanks mate.... l've done some further googling and it looks like its torque thing. This further confirms it.

Im a bloodly twat i also have a note 3 and its the same also. Sorry for wasting everyones time on this.
[Android Head-Units] zanix:
Ok, seems I also have immersive mode enabled for Torque to make it not look bad.
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
I don't think this has been mentioned yet. Looks like Newsmy has started teasing their next models.

http://www.newsmy-car.com/bbs/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=36614&from=portal

http://www.newsmy-car.com/bbs/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=36532&from=portal
[Android Head-Units] pawcu:
Guess it would be worth it to wait a bit more than before i order mine...
[Android Head-Units] ted0:
Thank you for the link. I will try to get some information from there. Maybe a faulty cable, i don't know. It seems that only the stage detecting the Loader does not work. :(

Android itself seems to work fine. But when i tried to install osmand (30MB), i had to try multiple times (about 4) until it succeed. Maybe my flash is broken?
[Android Head-Units] kommando:
Beware Google Translation

It is reported that Newman is the vehicle Pad3 big screen as an opportunity to Newman for 20 years to build a good quality musical heritage primarily, Cortex-A9 quad-core 1.6GHZ processor, 2GB DDR3 integrated dynamic memory, Mali400 quad-core graphics processor, 32GB large Flash memory, a variety of top-level configuration, in order to allow the release of the most perfect sound quality!
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Perfect mate.... this worked. Dpi of 213 and immersive mode.

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] zanix:
If Google translate is to be trusted, they are having a beta test of the CarPad3

Maybe not, there is no guarantee that the ROM we have will work on those or that we will get the source for these new models.

---------- Post added at 08:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 AM ----------

Looks like the Android hardware is roughly the same, just more flash memory.
[Android Head-Units] kwalsh24:
Let's hope they actually try to put some effort into the software side of things and actually improve the software vs throwing eye candy at it.
[Android Head-Units] usafle:
I'm hoping for actual 5.1 audio out instead of what we have now! That is the only hardware change I'm looking for!!!!!
[Android Head-Units] guap:
10,1"... it will definetely not fit in my car :D (or any vag at all I think). Still happy about my recent purchase
[Android Head-Units] guap:
I had one issue today, first day of REAL on-street test. The HU doesn't go off when ignition is switched off.

Just after the first installation in car everything was fine, even with poweramp running, which is REALLY aggressive according to my past experiences. Now I switch key and poweramp stays ond and plays music until I push the off button

any hint?
[Android Head-Units] db2boy:
Google Play Music and MCU standby setting

Folks,

Currently trying to update unit to newer MCU and ROM and have a couple of questions I couldn't locate answers for:-

1) Has the issue with being able to change where Google Play Music writes to been solved? With xdAuto ROM I appear to fill up the NAND with Google Music I sync with playlists. Same playlists didn't do this on Tuartara ROM ?

2) I updated to MCU and the unit now has no standby set and I don't see any setting for it in the MCU Update Settings, I've tried V40 and V41 with no change. If I flash back back to a stock ROM I see the setting in the Update Settings.

Did I miss something?

Many thanks, Ant
[Android Head-Units] Bokomaru:
Sounds like you don't have the ignition wire properly connected. There really isn't much else it could be.

---------- Post added at 04:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:58 PM ----------

I don't believe anyone has figured anything out with Google Music. I looked into it briefly and didn't see anything obvious.

If the setting exists or not depends on the ROM, not the MCU version. Of course if the MCU version doesn't support the setting it won't do anything.
[Android Head-Units] guap:
impossibile. Yesterday was working properly...Didn't have any car accident to unhook that connector :D

1) workaround: hardlink gmuisc temp dir to your sd
[Android Head-Units] Bokomaru:
It couldn't be unhooked, then the display would never come on (nor would the android box). I'm wondering if it's shorted to the 12v continuous.
[Android Head-Units] guap:
mmm good point i'll check tomorrow then. tnx :good:
[Android Head-Units] zanix:
Have you done this successfully?

I've been trying to do this without any success, the link goes away after every reboot or doesn't even work in the first place.
[Android Head-Units] ElfinJNoty:
Have you checked out "Music2SD" xposed module?

Hasn't been updated in a while. But it has worked on kk devices for me
[Android Head-Units] zanix:
I managed to get an older version but it doesn't seem to work.
[Android Head-Units] ElfinJNoty:
Here are my suggestions for anybody using google play and/or have/want to have a large media collection on their KK android devices(our AB's included):
[Android Head-Units] supremekizzle:
How is everyone using their units? I feel like I'm not using it to it's full potential/reliant on my phone. Basically right now it's a Bluetooth reciever for my music with a screen. I have a Moto X 2014 that knows when I'm driving and will start playing music and switches to read texts to me automatically. It's also completely hands free voice controlled with always listening. I had big plans to use the HU for torque, but being mounted low, it's a pain/unsafe to look down to check my boost gauge, etc. I almost feel I would've been better off mounting a tablet higher up to be able to see while driving and keeping my old "basic" head unit as the music to car bridge and the tablet for navigation/torque. Maybe screen mirroring would be a better option for me? Then I loose radio, backup camera, speed increase music, etc. You guys are smart, how can I pass off some of these tasks/be less reliant on my phone? Maybe do all other tasks on HU and get used 6" phone for torque/navigation display only? The head unit is a great product, I just thought it'd incorporate into MY specific routine better.... Open to idears....
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Been very busy getting torque the way i want it and final have thanks to everybodys help here. I would be lost without this community.

My next issue was the fact that the odbii scanner was always drawing voltage even when i bought an auto sleep device. I had an option to buy a unit with a power button but thats not very practical.

So i decided to use a bipolar transistor NPN basically this device allows voltage to flow between 2 pins when voltage is applied to a third pin. So when the ignition is on it allows my scanner to power on.

Hope this helps others...... see photos attached
[Android Head-Units] Fedorych:
I updated through recovery from 1.1.6b3 to 1.1.6c. Everything seems fine. But does not work to switch stations in favorites using the commands next and previous file.

* Only the station switches from the first to the last in the list and back.

Using TitaniumBackup i restore radio.apk from 1.1.6b3. Switch on the stations operating normally, but after the restart will not switch back.

I tried to install 1.1.6с using RKBatchV1.6 with restore (wipes /data), but the result is the same.

I do not understand what it was ...:confused:
[Android Head-Units] Duck Dodgers:
I noticed this when apps are running.....when no apps running (or active) then the HU does seem to go off with ignition. I'm still on stock ROM and if apps running and I turn ignition off, a big OFF appears on the screen! This looks to be part of canbus and I'd like to turn this off as the open door/air circulation are not right and not particularly helpful!

Is it something to do with the ACC connector cable?
[Android Head-Units] guap:
no, just a suggestion, unfortunately my data plan doesnt allw my to use gplaymusic in car :|
[Android Head-Units] kommando:
I plan to buy the scanner with on/off switch and an extension ODB2 cable so the scanner is in a convenient spot to access the on/off switch.
[Android Head-Units] usafle:
Just tested DPI @ 213. That seems to be the "Sweet spot" for the device.