yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android General] sciallo:
Ok, back in the game. I got my new motherboard in from china...

At first look there are a few little differences compared to the original one... a few pics just to share:

My main question to anyone who opened their unit, especially those with two USB in the back and one in the front, and anyone with a variant that has a aux-in in the front: Where are all the USB ports connecting in yours and is the aux in connected to that molex right between the ribbon and the BT module? Pics of different versions would be appreciated.

Old board:

Another board that was for sale:

My new board:

First thing to stand out to me when I unwrapped it is that the usb connectors have changed! My original board had a single 8 pin connector for both the front and the (single) rear usb port. The new board has two separate 4 pin connectors side by side in the same location.... not a plug and play scenario... after measuring and looking at a crazy amount of possible connectors, I think I ordered the right one. I hope the pins are the same such that I can just unclip them from the 8pin connector and they'll clip right into the 4 pin cage I have coming. In case it doesn't I have pins for those molex connectors coming too. I'm also getting a USB extension cord with plans to cut it, strip it and make a 2 USB port in the back if my suspitions are right:

As you can see circled in the picture above, there is 4 different 4pin molex connectors... The one between screen ribbon cable and BT I believe is for a front aux-in port as I already suspected a while back, one that I haven't seen in any other board so far is the one next to the DVD ribbon cable... DOES ANYONE HAVE THAT? it goes to the back of the Android board, so there is no tracing circuits on that one. the other boards I've seen so far don't have a provision for it at all so it's a new design, not just a header on previously unpopulated traces. I have false hope it might be a possible USB ADB port ?? The other peculiar one on the "blue" motherboard, it has a single 4 pin usb port in the usual spot, and another 4pin in the corner by the whole unpopulated wifi area....

On the android board I noticed a chip is missing on the new one. Further research shows that was a video decoder... Sort of tells me the old board was designed to be able to get video input from an outside (ie non-android) source, probably aux in... question is and do what with it? AFAIK there was no apps or ways to see any external video from android. There has been mentions of a DVR function, but nothing concrete that I know. I'm guessing that was an attempt that never came to fruition on the software/driver side and they stopped trying... Would be awesome if the aux in could simply be seen as android camera, it would open the door to a bunch of apps that rely on built in camera, whether it's the torque built in dash cam, or any barcode scanning app, face unlock, list could go on... oh well. didn't work with the old board, no chance with this one...

Old board:

Please anyone who opens their unit for any reason, take some pics of your connections and post, I'd like to compare all possible versions.
[Android General] jpapadami:
Changing LEDs

I just received my No Disc Android Car Stereo and I am very happy with the purchase. Seller even produced this unit with Red LEDs and not the default blue so that it matches my car LEDs. But I am wondering somewhere down the line if it would be possible to replace the Red LEDs with RGB LEDs to make use of the color switcher app that comes with the unit.

For those who have taken apart their unit, what kind of LEDs are used with these Pure Android units? Can they be replaced with RGB LEDs? Is it even possible to just replace them or do I need an additional hardware to make use of this color changing feature that other units have?
[Android General] shadowmike:
I'm willing to bet if you install the color app from the an21u roms you'll be able to change the color. Mine came red, but I soon found the color app on my radio that has full color spectrum. I have mine a light brown to match to wood grain.

The color.apk is in the sys apps zip on my drop box

AN-21 DEV www.dropbox.com/sh/j6lx4vkoqcm6kow/MDs6vhsuHG
[Android General] sciallo:
You might have to apply "model choose" with "color" in it for it to work, and it might bring up the color app when you do. (at least that's how it worked in early roms)
[Android General] jpapadami:
I have the color app installed on my unit, but it still doesn't work. Like I said, the unit comes Blue by default, but had to pay a little extra for them to install Red LEDs.

What does this "model choose" option do anyway? I have a list of options for different car makes/models, but because fcortes626 stated in post #2836 in the A21-U thread that he bricked his unit using this feature (and by the looks of it, you too), I'm kind of hesitant in playing around with it. I have this unit installed on a Suzuki Grand Vitara running .96 firmware (not sure what MCU versions).

Based on what I stated up till now, do you think that this "model choose" option might work and what should I pick as a couple have the "color" option? If you're right, it will seem that they just charged me extra (not a big deal though for $10) for a software setting change and not a hardware LED change. If not, do you think the LEDs can be replaced with RGBs for the Color app to work?
[Android General] sciallo:
Both him and I bricked our unit by using that option on a firmware that was older than what came with our units. also, I heard from a russian guy who had the same problem, he was a beta tester for the manufacturer before the units were released to the wider public. I can almost guarantee you that updating MCU to one that came with that rom would brick the unit just as well, but I will not be the one confirming this theory :)

By the looks of it that was a problem with early updates and it is no longer a problem that I know of (as long as you don't go trying that version). The firmware is listed in the wiki with big red warning about it. Incidentally, it is still there because it was also the only rom that fixed a Bluetooth problem caused by a frankensteined later rom and downgrading to that WITHOUT TOUCHING model change or MCU would fix the BT, then you could re-upgrade and BT kept working... Go figure

To answer your question, "model change" for what we estabilished does a couple of things, but the main thing it does is update the MCU.

In theory, the routine communicates with other components to estabilish what variant you have and present you with a list of options that are suited for your specific unit (you can see the list of options is always shorter than the list of MCU files available in /etc/mcu) when an option is selected, it updates the MCU and installs or uninstall supporting software for certain options. For example if you choose an option with "color" in it, it installs the color change app, if you had that and choose a non color option it uninstalls or hides that app....

It is supposed to be a safer way to update your MCU, and certainly should be safer than trying all MCU files we found in updates that are made to work on many different variants of the unit... Granted I at some point tried them all and made a list of what worked and what didn't ( that I could see, I don't remember testing BT at the time) nothing bad happened until I tried the infamous 2.6.23...

The color changing software will not work if you don't have the right MCU to communicate with it (and/or if you don't have the supporting hardware of course) so, yes, I would choose one of the options that say "color". What MCU do you have installed now? (settings->about device)

As far as a hardware mod to get RGB leds... that is pretty ambitious. you'd have to see if the circuit board is set to accept RGB (3 or 4? pads per LED) and if there is a controller for it. I haven't yet cracked the front part of my unit open so I'm not sure what is there to support the option, but I'm sure there is some sort of controller on top of the RGB leds themselves. Maybe someone who has opened their front face can share some pictures? ...Not holding my breath, I'm still hoping someone with the two rear usb ports + front one can tell me where they connect to the board... It doesn't seem there is many people taking the cover off.
[Android General] shadowmike:
If it's not to difficult, might pull out the radio one last time before amp and trunk wire install and take it apart.

I have the 2 knob, 2 usb in rear one in front.

AN-21 DEV www.dropbox.com/sh/j6lx4vkoqcm6kow/MDs6vhsuHG
[Android General] sciallo:
That. Would be awesome! Thanks
[Android General] jpapadami:
My MCU version is 4.2.5-1-10-2101. What MCU version is needed? I doubt it will work if what the seller says is true about changing the LEDs, but would be interested in trying.

I would open mine up, but I spend so much time installing it, installing a rear view camera and hooking it up to the unit, setting up steering wheel control, DVB antenna, etc... that I don't want to take it out again, at least for now.

BTW, I am having some issues with the Prev/Next steering wheel control functions. They work for the music player, ipod player, etc... but not for the radio or the TV. You think this has something to do with the MCU files?
[Android General] sciallo:
I think that is the right MCU for color change, I guess they did phisically replace the LEDs ...kind of funny, you paid for a downgrade :)

I don't have SWC so I can't really help you there...
[Android General] jpapadami:
I don't think I paid for a downgrade. I just think this model just doesn't support multi-color leds. It's fairly new and every place that is selling them is offering them in Blue. I just asked them to use Red LEDs instead. I figured that there is possibly an additional controller needed for changing LED colors. It was worth a try to see it just changing the leds to RGB might allow multi colors.
[Android General] sciallo:
I was jus being funny, it's actually kind of nice they did that for you, 10$ is cheap for that... I do think those models don't have a provision for RGB leds at all, the board probably isn't etched to accept them. The only way to know would be to open it and look...

On the other hand, when I got mine I was all set on changing out the LEDs, I didn't know it would be a color changing model. Another project I planned for when I start messing with a IOIO was to have the LEDs and screen both dim with my dash light dimmer. I was planning on isolating the leds aand powering them through a PWM out from the IOIO. Not sure I can still do that with this option.
[Android General] jpapadami:
If you ever open yours up, take a look and see if there is a controller for the multi-color feature and if you can post a picture of it. Once I'm done configuring mine and getting it all set up the way I want it, I might just open mine up to do some research :) The thing I need to do before that is figure out why my chinese ELM327 OBD adapter doesn't communicate with my car's ECU? I know it's a hit or miss with these bad boys. It works with my laptop, just not sure why it's not working with Torque Pro.
[Android General] spaceman99:
I was banging my head against the wall with my chinese ELM327... It turned out the baud rate was an issue - I forget which rate I used, but I had to step through the list (highest to lowest) and restart Torque Pro after each change. Eventually it worked and works well now.

Note that with Torque, you need the pro version to support USB, the lite version does not support USB.
[Android General] typos1:
Is there any chance you could post some screenshots of the TV app and maybe upload the manual for it, jpapadami ? (the AN-21U manual says that the TV has a separate manual)

I m having trouble connecting with Torque Pro and usb, any chance you could post what buad rate you used to get it to work spaceman ?

Thanks
[Android General] jpapadami:
Try 9600. I tried all of them and had no luck, but will try again just in case. Note that every time you change the baud rate you have to unplug the scantool and plug it back in. Maybe even restart Torque Pro.

I don't want to hijack this thread as it is mainly for hardware mods. Let's use the initial AN-21 U thread for topics like these.
[Android General] hella356:
Anyone know what the pre-out voltage is?
[Android General] ShaolinSolidus:
I am having problems with my ODB2 ELM327 USB adapter. I have the correct baud rate, and it works fine when initially plugged in, but when i restart the unit it does not seems to recognize it until i disconnect and re-connect the usb adapter. I have considered installing a timed relay to effectively "plug in" the usb after about 40 sec, but this would be foolish if it is not necessary. I have the "no DVD capacitive touch model" is anyone else experiencing this problem?

On a bit of a side note i am trying to change my boot animation to one that is 720 x 1280. i have tried simply editing the txt file to suit the 480 x 800, and editing all of the jpg images to the 480 x 800 format, but everything goes south after that. I get a black boot animation and then the back light refuses to turn on, and only after several reboots will it successfully load the home screen and i can revert back to another working animation.
[Android General] Miwer:
diversity antenna converter redesign

Anyone into electonics? Then check this...

When I got my AN21-U, it came with a converter for diversity antenna twin-fakra to single din. However, when I connected it, I got VERY bad radio reception. It could only barely tune to one of multiple channels in the FM band. So I decided to take it apart (and broke the resistor in the process), and now looking at what's inside, it's no surprise to me, that this converter is utter crap.

So I'm looking to do one of two things:

1) Buy another converter off ebay - I've seen a few, but I'm not sure I'm trusting those, unless somebody can recommend one that's working as intented for diversity antennas. They coud easily just be other crap converters with a couple of passive components inside. Can anyone recommend a converter I can use, based on their own experience?

2) Use the existing plugs, and make my own proper diversity antenna converter. I'm generally good with electronics, just not RF. Anyone knows of a reference design with schematics I can use for the task?

Thank you. :)
[Android General] jpapadami:
1024x600 Screen replacement

Hey Guys,

For those who have opened up their units, how hard is it to replace the capacitive screens? I was thinking somewhere down the line to find a 1024x600 capacitive screen and replacing it, but would like to know how hard is it and if anyone can send a Aliexpress, EBay, wherever link for a compatible, but higher resolution screen. Thanks in advance.
[Android General] MFKinSINY:
remote power switching

I've had this unit for about 6 weeks or more now. One day out of the blue, my amps (in the trunk) stopped switching off & the powered antenna no longer retracts into the vehicle. I currently have to pull the main 60A fuse at the battery (so I don't wake up to a dead battery, got me once.... won't get me again)

When I pull the connector out of the back of the HU, the antenna goes down & the amps switch off. I have the remote power wire (one of the blue wires, funny that they are both blue) connected to the coil of a standard relay. Is it possible (seems evident) that a component is now floating a high signal (transistor, opto or something) I would open it up, but I figure I'd check here first to see if anyone can shed some light. Maybe some one can suggest an "external" hack? Thanks in advance. Mike.
[Android General] sciallo:
Only quick and dirty thing I can think of is to hook both up to the acc. They'll be powered when key is on, retract/shut off when key off. (not sure about possible thumps on the amp though. Let us know if you do figure out what went south in there...
[Android General] sciallo:
Btw, if your amp has a terminal for the blue wire you really shouldn't need a relay, it's just a signal to turn the amp on, shouldn't draw any power.
[Android General] MFKinSINY:
Thanks. I did consider doing this. The reason I use a relay is because I have multiple amps. 2 now, but soon to be 3. I read somewhere that using the realy was advisable (if not necessary) when using multiple amps due to a potential shorting condition could destroy the HU.

Being that I am currently pulling & reinserting the main fuse, any detectable thump is already obvious, and surprisingly not all that bad.

If I do in fact open up the HU and discover the issue, or come up with an elaborate external hack I will most definitely share it here. Thanks again!
[Android General] sciallo:
If you want an elaborate hack that will allow for all kinds of expansion and toying look into the IOIO
[Android General] MFKinSINY:
Thanks! I have two IOIO's, four Raspberry Pi's, 2 Arduino's (and about 2 dozen ATmega328's) and four Teensy 3.0's (the teensy's are my favorite)

I haven't got much use out of the IOIO's yet but probably will soon. I had problems configuring the ADK and the programming language is kinda ruff for me. It took me a while to learn C++ and Im slowly learning Java & Python (I can't devote the time I would like to) so I might lean toward using a Teensy over wifi and creating some apps using MIT AppInventor. Not the best approach but it's what I know how to work with. for now any way. Thanks again!
[Android General] alexderev:
Hi all!

Few days ago I received my head unit. It was bought on ebay _http://www.ebay.com/itm/251490874581?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649_ And I bricked it successfully almost the same way as sciallo :)

The story began from the post _http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=49294199&postcount=1186_ After installing of modified apk system load stopped on logo animation. "That's the issue! I need to restore firmware from SD!" Firmware was unzipped to SD card but several tries to start upgrade failed. System started as usual and stopped at logo animation. SD was attached to USB through the cardreader as next step. After that the line "Upgrade start" appeared followed immediately by "Upgrade end". I switched SD back to front panel. Then I pressed the "Home" and shortly the "Power". I had read the sciallo's big issue and did not hold the Power button continuously. When upgrade had started I released the "Home" and right after that the unit turned off. That was a fail...

There was nothing to lost and I disassemled the unit to look inside and to make more investigations.

Here the pics with the inner parts of the unit. It looks the same as your new motherboard:

Overview with all connections (except CD-ROM ribbon):

I made some additional traces and measurements on the circuit. The most common way to connect 2-wire electrete microphone looks like this:

The R58 is not the resistor but the capacitor 20nF. It corresponds to the capacitor on the pic above. Here the full scheme of the microphone circuit:

Parts without values are the empty places on board. To make the external microphone to work you need to solder R131 and R116 at least. R131 can be 0 Ohm, R116 has to be about 5-10kOhm.

I believe that no automatic switch between mics. The amplifier should utilize the signals from both devices.

Sorry for any errors, it's my first post here :)
[Android General] anpo:
My two cents on external microphones..

Well I red both this and the main thread before purchasing my device and made sure I would get one pre-fitted with external mic. I don't care much for Android voice commands but I a high quality handsfree is top prio. Well I suppose my external mic is way better than whatevers built in but still without any DSP or noise cancellation it's still rubbish, for handfree calls at highway speed I would even say useless. Mic is picking up way to much noise and from speakers so my speaking partnet will hear a nasty echo.

I'm getting a Parrot MKi9000 now which is to be connected between HU and speakers. A bit more exensive (<$200 incl shipping to Sweden), sure, but well worth it if you gonna use it with your phone.
[Android General] ShaolinSolidus:
May have Fried board

So I am not entirely sure what has happened but, I think my unit is toast. I have not modified the MCU, the only thing that has been done is that it is rooted. I was using my head unit perfectly fine when my wife got out of the car and i started to drive away, I received static on the screen and through the speakers. Now my first response (possibly the wrong one) was to reset the unit. I tried just using the face plate power button to cycle the unit, which did not work. I parked my car and turned the ignition off and back on. It booted up but did not get through the loading screen before displaying the static again. I let it sit off for several minutes and tried booting again, this time it made it through the loading screen but then within 2-3 minutes static again. now the unit will not boot at all, no loading screen and no signs of life except for the radio in the background (Which isn't really signs of life) and the back light behind the screen and face plate button lights.

Now unfortunately I have done the external mic modification, so any warranty that may have been applicable is now long gone. I pulled the unit apart to check for any loose chips, blown caps, or blown IC's. none of which are glaringly obvious. I have the no-dvd 7" model, but the board looks identical to any that i have seen posted here (slight variances)

Not that i wish this misfortune on anyone else, but i do sincerely hope that someone has had this problem before and can tell me that i did not just burn up 460$. I am willing to try any suggestions that any of you may have, please let me know. Thank you.
[Android General] gpmg762:
You should give the front plate reset pin-hole a try.
[Android General] ShaolinSolidus:
Yup it's fried

Wouldn't that be awesome if that's all it was. No that was definitely one of the first things I tried. I was actually wondering if maybe part of the power regulator fried? Long shot and wouldn't really explain the characteristics this thing was showing, but maybe someone knows of some test leads on the board and the running voltages. Starting to look more and more like I have a 460$ paperweight / spare parts unit.
[Android General] gpmg762:
That's what I thought happened to mine . It would boot halfway and go blank, ending with no power at all. It took me 2 days of troubleshooting to find it was the connector's power cable contact problem. I took the unit out of the car and used a PC power supply and a multimeter to probe the receiving terminals, should get 12V.
[Android General] ShaolinSolidus:
Problem with that is the radio kicks on and the front button led's, but no life on the front usb or any activity on the screen other than the back light. But i will try the alternate power supply when i get home, Thank you.
[Android General] TeamHackura:
Searches but haven't found solution. Was working fine. Posted car and started up but no sound from any app. Ca-Fi radio. Tried opening and closing every app including aux. Tried devouring a few times. Wi-Fi refuses to come on too

---------- Post added at 02:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:27 AM ----------
[Android General] chanh55:
Shorted Pins on ST Micro IC?

So my head-unit has been getting weird static on the screen and would go way when I reboot the system. Well, one time the reboot seem to make the system not boot at all...

I opened the top to inspect the board to see if I can see if anything burnt out. I didn't see anything burnt out but I did notice some pins on the ST Micro IC that looks like there was too much solder paste or something because they look shorted, see attached. I'm no EE but I worked in R&D manufacturing for a long time and usually this kind of stuff gets reworked to get rid of the short.

Are the same shorts present on your guy's chip?
[Android General] Miwer:
If you look closely, you'll see that the PCB tracks are wider than the others, and connected to both pins, so it does not matter if the pins are soldered together, since they are connected via the PCB anyway.

Nothing wrong there I'd say...