yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Though the Green Ethernet and Energy Efficient options sound interesting, Realtek is a common NIC vendor so unlikely that the defaults would be problematic.

If you haven't installed the driver from the Realtek site, it might be worth trying, but art this point I'm stumped.

Try setting power policy to High/Maximum Performance?

Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
My problem returned a few days ago as well.

Sometimes it drops from the phones, other times the Mac, others all of the above.

I've had my router behind my TV - I doubt it's a signal strength or multipath issue.

And now a new symptom - sometimes when Netflix can't see the Chromecast, the Chromecast app says that the Chromecast is ready for setup.

While a movie is playing.

It's frustrating that I can't figure this out but with the new symptom, I'm pretty much reduced to just laughing it off.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
The status in the Chromecast app is often inaccurate. I only trust what Chromecast outputs to the TV.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
I see.

It was new to me then.

I think knowing that status isn't trustworthy for you, even though you don't have the problem I do, doesn't make me happy.

Iow, we're both seeing error conditions, just varying by degree.

I was hoping to end up thinking that it's just my unit, maybe it's gotten less reliable and I'm just tying it to a particular update by not accepting that was coincidental.

Now, not sure.
[Google Chromecast] Asphyx:
Don't pay any attention to what the App says because it doesn't really know what the CCast is doing...JUst that there is one there you can connect to and setup if you continue.

If it is playing a movie it really doesn't need to be setup.

The only time you should run the CCast app is when it says not connected on the TV screen or you see the light on it is not solid.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
I think that the app ought to indicate if a Chromecast is available on the network or not.

It's a helpful diagnostic tool when the Chromecast disappears from Netflix while a movie is playing (past the typical buffered time).

On occasions when the app says it's there but Netflix disagrees, all that's required is to kill and restart Netflix to regain control.

Far more convenient, and actually far more correct, than resetting the router in those cases.

When the problem isn't occurring and before it started I was comfortable ignoring the app.

But to call it useless 1) doesn't match my experience and 2) is disturbing with the latest information because it proves that problems exist outside of just Netflix on a phone or Chrome on a pc - something I've maintained all along.

I won't sweep an observable under the rug as unimportant, as a practicing system tester for a living I'm not comfortable with that without a solid reason to reject the data.

This is a robustness issue.

I've tried all advice given. It may not be raining there but it is here.

Chromecast -> not performing right for me since the 13300 update.
[Google Chromecast] Asphyx:
But thats not it's purpose at all...

It can only communicate with the CCast via Wireless which won't be available if it is connected to a network.

Perhaps they could add some diagnostic capability for wired and already connected CCasts but it wasn't the purpose of the app when created.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Agree. It can be useful, but when things aren't working 100%, it can be misleading.

From my experience, it seems to not be exactly real-time in status.

The information panel (what you get tapping it in the Chromecast app) has been accurate in terms of build and name for me.

Definitely some kind of "Chromecast diagnostics" would be useful.

Another possibility is to use the CR Cast extension to emulate a Chromecast, or CheapCast on an Android device with an interface (at least you can ping and such from that device). It's not a 100% test, but at least gives you more diagnostic capacity.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
I don't understand what you're trying to say.

What do you mean by wireless?

Wifi is wireless. And networking obviously.

Are you trying to describe some phase of peer to peer networking during the setup phase?

And what "wired and already connected?"

Everything I have is on wifi and I can't figure out your post at all, sorry. :(

---------- Post added at 02:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ----------

I think I understand your point, I do have a spare Android that I can use for CheapCast and it's already MHL'd to my TV.

However, CheapCast doesn't support Netflix and while I've also seen the problem with YouTube, I'm not sure what it will tell me to simulate one with the other.

If the CheapCast doesn't fail and the Chromecast does, what will I have learned?
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
I disagree slightly... While it's definitely intended (and almost necessary) for setup, the fact that it can see already set up Chromecasts on the "regular" wireless network (not Chromecast's self-provided AP for setup) and lets you configure their names and timezones tells me it has some degree of maintenance intent.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
Btw -

I'm not arguing there - I'm asking.

I'm trying to work out an observables matrix to fill in before proceeding.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
:good: No worries, I totally understand.

If Cheapcast also shows similar issues of "falling off" or "going ninja," then it leans more toward something network-related rather than something specific to your Chromecast hardware or firmware.

If Cheapcast works fine, then at least we can rule out issues with the controlling/monitoring device.

If your device running Cheapcast can use both wired and wireless network, definitely try both. If it has dual-band, also try both bands to narrow the '"problem" scope.

Another test would be to disconnect Chromecast from your TV, move it into the middle of the room, plug it into wall power (no TV), then start casting, go do something else and check on it later.

If it works fine alone in the middle of the room then it's something environmental - maybe try a port on a different side of the TV if possible.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
Ok.

As far as the environment - I've had the device not only in separate rooms but also different houses. Before and after 13300.

As far as the controlling/monitoring device, it's already an issue comparing with the same laptop, two Androids and an iPhone - at both houses.

Netgear and Airport tried at one house, two different routers at the second, different ISPs.

Short, long and no HDMI extenders tried from ports on the back and side of the TV.

It's 2.4/5 GHz independent in behavior.

And so far as it indicating a network problem if both the Chromecast and CheapCast fall off - ok, but I don't see how we can know that. It could just as easily mean that the CheapCast has the same flaw as the Chromecast.

If it seems like I have a comeback for everything, I don't. I test complex things for a living and I know the importance of assuming nothing and looking for configuration changes to assess.

I'll go ahead and try all you suggest.

But I think that it's all solving for too many unknowns with too few equations, to be honest.

I think that something like a race condition was added in 13300.

And race conditions have a way of producing very strange observables.

I'm really surprised that two of you are admitting that you have Chromecast not presenting proper status to a Chromecast-aware app (i.e. Chromecast itself) and that's somehow ok and not indicative of a fundamental problem, because it doesn't affect the primary mission of the device.

Yet my Chromecast is not presenting proper status either, simply to a different app, and yet because it does affect the primary mission of the device, there must be a problem elsewhere.

Yet in all cases we have a common observable - the device will present status to apps that is inaccurate.

When it does it to Chromecast, that app thinks it needs setup when it doesn't.

When with Netflix, that app won't take control.

I think that you have the same defect reported with a different symptom.

The typical hallmark of a race condition.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Actually I think we might be looking at two different "statuses" here.

The Chromecast (setup) app determines its Chromecast "state" via some unknown means. Who knows, it might be the same as the control, but that makes more mystery.

The Chromecast apps such as YouTube query using the defined Chromecast control/status method. That's why RemoteCast works for most apps. Though Netflix is a notable exception.

BTW, my Chromecast app reports status accurately, but that only seems to be the case when Chromecast is in a "normal" state. If it drops off the network temporarily (ex. Router reboot) then it can show a conflicting status from what it shows on the TV for a while.

If it's a race condition that's being reset by a watchdog or something and Cheapcast has the same bug, then that should hopefully be observable in the CPU usage and network stats of the Cheapcast app.

Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
Ok, appreciate you clarifying, I misunderstood what you said.

When I reset my router, I can watch the TV screen to see the Chromecast go to the setup screen, and watch the Chromecast AP light up a signal corresponding to that on my same router channel (Wifi Analyzer), then all go away as normal ops ensue. But it happens in stages, it's not all instantaneous.

I've only recently seen the app occasionally say it's in a setup state while during that time, the Chromecast AP doesn't show up on wifi at all.

Like I said before, my kingdom for a true wifi sniffer. :( It's exactly as you say - we don't know what the traffic really is.

Anyway - I'll try all you suggest.

None of it is difficult and I have nothing to lose exploring.

PS - I'd like to someday learn, just for the hell of it, why the two firms that defined the protocol here signal the device differently with their apps.

PPS - I'm also tempted to see what would happen if I set a MAC address window of 23:59 on my router for the Chromecast.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
:) WiFi sniffer, totally.

As for the difference in status, the apps use DIAL (again, not sure why/how Netflix is different), the setup app is hardware-specific so it's a bit of a protocol-level vs platform-level thing.

http://www.dial-multiscreen.org/

Has some fun Netflix branded docs... which makes it even more odd that Netflix would be the exception to Remotecast... unless Google pulled a Microsoft (Internet Explorer) and made their own variation of the standard so Netflix is the exception because they're the only one strictly obeying the published standard.

Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
Yeah, I've been *all* through dial-multiscreen.org and I lurk on the g+ discussions with the Google engineers discussing the protocol changes as they go.

And I check every day for a RemoteCast update that recognizes Netflix.

I wouldn't bet against there being some truth in what you say.

When I referred to the respective apps, I meant YouTube and Netflix, not Chromecast and Netflix. I know what the org charts have to say, but I have to believe that YouTube == Google.
[Google Chromecast] Asphyx:
Which would make sense if not for the fact that the CCast is making the reports and if there are router issues or other reasons for not being able to see the Device the App will have the same issue with it and can do nothing without re-running Setup via Wireless...

The PC version of the app doesn't even do that much.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
True, the PC version of the app is even less helpful. Can't blame them though, so many different wireless management utilities on Windows, heh.
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
Update -

Chromecast just out in the room, away from the TV, same thing.

CheapCast stayed on when Chromecast didn't.

Since the 15250 update, about 80 hours ago with as much time as I could spend casting - no issues.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Cool, it sounds like build 15250 has addressed your discovery/connection issue. Thanks for the update!
[Google Chromecast] EarlyMon:
I wasn't alone on this, I hope it's fixed for others now as well.

And they don't break it again lol.
[Sony Smartwatch] leadingyouupthegardenpath:
I'm using a Sony Xperia Z1 and Sony Smart Watch 2 (SW2). Loving the Watchit! app, however…

When using the navigation function within google maps on my phone, the turn by turn instructions aren't pushed across to the SW2.

Watchit! is supposed to push all notifications and toasts to the SW2, but for some reason this doesn't appear to work. Any thoughts on this, or does anyone have any experience of this?

Thanks
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] sotero2:
I know there is way to root my galaxy s3 sph-l710 with 4.3 jelly bean (knox) using odin and CF-Auto-Root on windows. But I want to know if there is a way to do it from a mac (OSX).

thanks.
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] Quetzalcoatl:
Use heimdal (I forget its correct spelling)
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] jdsingle76:
Heimdall :). Here's a good place to start.

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=878686
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] sotero2:
thanks so much. I'll search a bit more on heimdall.

thanks again.
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] Quetzalcoatl:
To root all you have to do is flash twrp recovery with heimdall and upon rebooting via the recovery the recovery will ask if you want to root the device.

The replicant os page (I think thats what its called) has a great guide on using heimdall

The command is something like heimdall flash RECOVERY pathtorecovery.img.

Make sure to get the latest version of heimdall, there was a weird bug in slme recent versions where the recovery writes would fail
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] sotero2:
I appreciate the time you've taken answer my post. If it is not to much of a problem, would you please point me to the right direction. I haven't really found any thing referring to gs3 w/ 4.3 jelly knox os.

thanks again
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] Quetzalcoatl:
as far as I know knox shouldnt interfere with the root process.

It would just trip the knox counter but that's about it, from what I read.

and when I spoke of replicant earlier I was referring to this page

http://redmine.replicant.us/projects/replicant/wiki/HeimdallRecoveryInstallation

Do you have any experience working with terminals?

let me know if you need more help.
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] sotero2:
Yes a I've used the terminal a couple of times. All i want is something similar to my current os (sprint galaxy s3 4.3 jelly) but without all the bloatware. What rom can you recomend me?
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] Quetzalcoatl:
I dont use touchwiz ROMS but if you want a stock experience, you can root the phone, then just remove the bloatware with a root app.
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] Quetzalcoatl:
And there's an xposed module specifically for touchwiz roms that allow for a great deal of tweaks without having to flash a different rom
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] Name_In_Use:
I am just curious, I popped into this thread and found some very useful info. However, I am unsure to one thing: The difference between GS3 SPH-L710, and i9300. Then will replicant work for SPH-L710? Many other forums, I have browsed, said stay away if it is not the same model. Is that true, or does it even make a difference? Thanks.

Also turns out that I am entirely too new to this site to even have a link in your quoted text, lol.
[General Questions and Answers] DracoPiece:
I used USB on my GPad via OTG and the usb cant be read i already change the system and but it's not working, please help

-Sorry for bad english
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] Otto-Mate:
Using codes from here - http://www.arcx.com/sites/GsmFeatures.htm

I want to setup speed dial to re-direct my phone sometime. However if I put *21*[Phone Number]# into a contact and try and dial it I get "Command not supported".

Any way I can do this?

Thanks

M.
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] Carnivor:
does the command work if you put it directly into the phone pad dialler and press dial??
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] Otto-Mate:
Yup, works perfectly like that. Looking for a way to do it from a memory quickly. Any ideas?

Thanks

M.
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] GavinN:
Hi Otto-Mate,

I've no time to test and don't know if the HTC Universal allows but have you tried saving the number to the SIM and linking the speed dial to it there?

If this device (having a quick look show's it's not) GCF certified then it should be able to dial *21*xxxx numbers from the U/SIM but I don't know if the speed dial will link to it...

Gavin.
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] cjb:
You might want to look at SKScheMa at www.s-k-tools.com which using a script can make a call. It will give you a shortcut to the script to execute it.

cjb
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] mangaba:
Hi,

I have a doubt about the Action Memo:

- When I hand write a name like "Jonh Smith" and use the name to create a new contact, the contact name turns in "JonhSmith".

Don´t matter the distance between the two words and even if I write in two lines, it never put the space.

But, if I use the name to search the internet, there are no problem with the space.

This is happening only with my phone ?

Any suggestion ?

Thanks
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] mangaba:
Nobody ?!

51 views and nobody can test this simple thing and post a comment ?

I didn´t have access to anothther NOte 3 to try myself.

Thanks
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] buell47:
All the same by me :-/

Tried all, no space in contacts

Gesendet von meinem SM-N9005 mit Tapatalk
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] xclub_101:
No, it is not just you, it is probably a bug. However in my case I am also suggested a better spelling in the input/keyboard window.
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] j_hansen:
mine does the same, no big hassle to just ad the space after though
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] mangaba:
thanks to all

OK, agree that is not a big problem.
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] ChardC:
I second xclub_101's suggestion. SwiftKey keyboard handled the correction automatically on my end.
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
So I was trying to change my son's Fire 2 over to the new Kit Kat OS, and as I was downloading the necessary files to my computer, I thought I would wipe everything, since he had managed to pretty much fill it with junk, (he's 8). I have TWRP, (2.3.3.0) installed, and used that to wipe everything, including the internal storage and the format data wipe. I have done this with my Fire 1 with no issues, but this time I ran into a problem. TWRP works fine, but now windows won't recognize the tablet. When I go to mount the usb storage to copy the os files over, windows 7 cant load the device drives, and in my device manager it shows the Amazon Kindle fire 2 with the yellow exclamation mark next to it, saying that the drivers for this device are not installed. I have the SDK installed, and I have gone through and re installed the device drivers several times, and also uninstalled the kindle from the device list in manager. Nothing is working. I have attempted fastboot, but when I do try, it gets stuck at the "press the button menu" for TWRP, and after running the fastboot -i 0x1949 getvar product command, it tells me it sees an Otter2-Prod-04.

Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions on how I can get into the usb storage so I can load the OS info? Thanks for any help.
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
Dead?

Well, I rebooted from TWRP and it just went black. No light when the cable is plugged in, (factory cable), no twenty second reset working, nothing. IS it safe to assume I now have a pretty paperweight, and I should be looking into getting my son another tablet?
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] mindmajick:
Leave it on the charger overnight. Keep trying 20 second reboot. If you can get back into recovery you can adb sideload a rom into the device.

You've never been able to USB Mount this device from recovery.

Good luck. No reason it should be bricked....

How did you try to get into fast boot? You need a fastboot cable. This device is NOTHING LIKE the kf1.

Edit: also need to be sure exactly which kf2 you have.

--》Sent from my mind to your screen
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
I have the standard cheap Kf2, no HD, just the upgrade from the first from last year, (2012), they were selling around Christmas last year. I have tried getting it to start back up, but with no success. I don't even understand why it shut down like that. I hadn't done anything to it other than reboot, which I had done successfully several times before. As for the fastboot, I may be incorrect. I ran the adb command: fastboot -i 0x1949 getvar product in CMD, and then plugged the kindle in and booted up. It showed it was an otter4 or something like that, which I thought meant it was in fastboot. At that time I was using my S4 usb cable. I'm sure I can sort out ho to sideload a rom via adb if I can ever get it started back up again. I had thought about opening it up and unplugging the battery and then re-plugging it back it to try to reset it, but I doubt it will help. Would getting a fastboot cable possibly make it start back up? If anyone has any suggestions on how I can get this thing started up again I would greatly appreciate it. I fell like crap for bricking my kids kindle, he's 8, so it's really important to him. It'll take me several months to save up to buy another one, so if I can get it running again, that would be awesome.
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
Here's a bit of an oddity, and maybe this spells some hope for me yet. So I plug the KF2 into the computer with the factory cable, hold down the power button for twenty seconds, let go, and then hit the power button again, for about a second, and windows makes the usb device plugged in sound, followed by a usb rejected or not recognized sound. It repeats this over and over for about thirty seconds or so and then stops. So there is something going on with the kindle, and its not flat out dead, or at least it seems. Is this a good sign? Does this help anyone to figure out what I might need to do?
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
So just to be sure that I was using a fastboot cable, even though I believe that my samsung s4 cable is fastboot capable, and I'm pretty sure I am using the factory cable, (it's not marked so I can't be 100% sure), I built my own fastboot cable, via instructions on how to do so on xda. (found HERE) It's doing the same thing with windows making the usb device inserted / recognized sound, followed by the usb device error sound. I'm guessing that this is a bad thing, am I correct?
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
One more bit of information to add to the list. I attempted to do the fastboot mode again,and decided to watch my device manager. Whenever windows chimes off that it detects a usb device, something called OMAP 4430 pops up for about a second before disappearing when the error sound comes on. I'm going to try and get a driver for that, just to see what happens. Maybe it'll help. I doubt it, but you never know until you try...
[Kindle Fire 2 Q&A, Help and Troubleshooting] xanthian23:
This just keeps getting weirder and weirder. So I installed the omap driver for windows and android, and now windows recognizes the device, but only for about a second. It just keeps cycling through the usb connected sound, recognizing the omap device, and then the usb disconnected sound, as though the device were being plugged in and then unplugged about every second for roughly thirty seconds. I'm starting to think there is something seriously wrong, which bites. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.