yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Is there anyway you can check "lsmod" for us? It would be helpful to know exactly which module is supporting your USB to OBD2 adapter. Also, if the output is not definite enough then could you plug it into your computer and check its device manager to see which USB to serial drivers it is using? Also, where you purchased it? Maybe we can start a list of compatible adapters and symptoms to help potential buyers.
[Android Head-Units] WonderEkin:
Sorry, i didn't notice the screen is 800x480

V1.4 should show the Step 2 button

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwKObTKUOwAqenVXS0RRUGljUWs/edit?usp=sharing
[Android Head-Units] KID52:
No worries, thanks again.

I'll update the main thread, but can't be bothered to make another video just yet. The steps include instructions for both eventualities anyway.
[Android Head-Units] KID52:
Agreed, this information would be useful. I've done the same for 3G dongles, and would definitely add information regarding OBD scanners if you can get it.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
I'm not sure if it matters on Honeycomb and later, I think that was when Google introduced USB OTG support. Torque Pro has supported USB adapters for some while with OTG, no specific modules needed:

1. Make sure Torque is quit and not running.

2. Plug the USB adapter into the tablet. A window will pop up asking which app you would like to start for this USB device. Select 'Torque'.

3. Torque will start, go into the OBD settings. Change the connection type to 'Wired(USB)'. Then scroll down the USB settings and select the USB device. It should appear as a number in the list.

4. Quit the torque app

I suspect it worked out of the box without any need for root since the unit is 4.1, but because it is relying on the OS for the serial adapter rather than a specific kernel module that is probably the reason for it being buggy.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
.

Google On The Go (OTG) implementation doesn't magically make every USB device compatible. The underlying Linux Operating System still needs to support it in order for the Android system to use it. Even if you had USB OTG Helper installed, it still requires the appropriate Linux kernel modules installed and insmod'ed in order to support more than standard mass storage and human interface devices.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
I believe torque will natively recognize some of the usb to serial modules with out the need for a kernel support.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
I take it that you got the information from the Torque wiki page?

Besides that rules out the Silicon Labs (CL230x) for "native" support which you posted in the Post #2108 of the "OUKU - Unbranded 6.2" 2 DIN Android Car Stereo Radio Head Unit View Single Post: thread.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Hence the need for a specific kernel module, that is included in the latest hacked firmware for the Gingerbread version of the Ouku, if GB supported OTG then a dongle with either a Prolific or FTDI chip would work but since GB doesn't support OTG its a moot point, but for the newer ICS device it does matter.

Tho I'm not sure what my post about another device with a completely different firmware and chipset matters to this one.

Simply put: on the GB devices no USB OBD dongle would work out of the box, due to the lack of OTG support by the OS regardless of its chipset, but for the ICS devices if you have a dongle with a chipset that Torque Pro does support natively then due to OTG support it will work.

It still doesn't mean every USB OBD dongle will work, but it's a step in the right direction.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
My point is that regardless if Torque Pro comes with its own Prolific and FTDI serial drivers, it would be nice to know which chipsets of the USB to ODB2 cables are natively supported by the AN-21 U. That way those with it won't necessarily have to be limited to Torque for ODB2 interactivity with their car. Besides there are several posts with issues posted in the Torque forums for issues with "natively" supported serial adapters, like this one.
[Android Head-Units] flyboy1100:
Well this thread is so huge it is difficult to even search. I have the manual someone posted recently and the translation to English is poor at best. The advertisements just say you can use one, nothing really says how.

My original question was which unit had the 3.5mm jack, because I didn't think any did. I will have to read this on the computer and not the phone.
[Android Head-Units] B.Stromberg:
outch, i only look in the pdf file delivered in that rar.

Menu looked similar to my Menu so i suggest its also Android 4.xx

Sorry that far......
[Android Head-Units] TOMMYX2:
my Mic Jack with the Parrot Mic

Outside the Unit is great,and it working great with a Bluetooth Phone Call!

but not with Google Search or AIVC,

when the car is running

:mad:

is it possible to optimize the microphone gain with a app or edit a Systemfile?
[Android Head-Units] B.Stromberg:
I also connected a mic jack at the backside.

I cut the interal mic and solder the jack to the contacts inside.

Then i tried with the Mic of my Parrot 5100 but its not that good. Some better it is with an other Mic but idk from what Unit i have....

So there must be differences between Mics.

But i also wish an App to be able to increase Volume of the Mic.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
No, this is your exact question; verbatim. Highlighted in red.

Even though the answer to your question was in his original post that you quoted. Highlighted in red.

In other words, if you took the time to read his post then you would have not needed to ask the question.

Well, even though I think that's a lame and poor excuse, I wasn't referring to the AN-21 manual. I was referring to my recommendation to use the instructions from the Pac-Audio's SWC site. Because if it claims it is going to use the "white wire" then you can mentally replace that with the Key1 wire of the AN-21U.

For example, let's say you have a 2009 Suburu Outback. The following quote is their instructions AND the next quote would be the "mentally translated" instructions.

Should be "translated as"...

Hopefully, the larger screen will improve your reading comprehensions.
[Android Head-Units] ThePapabear:
So, i just installed the MCU file, B.Stromberg told about (and sent to me, thank you again!) and my unit now works as expected.

Volume knob is not mirrored any more and a little change in some small symbols (speaker symbol when showing the level of the sound for example), but i am missing nothing.

First check shows no negatives, i will test more in the next view days, but i dont expect any sort of new problem.
[Android Head-Units] flyboy1100:
Well I do understand now (still don't know exactly which version)

But I need to follow these instructions instead http://ae64.com/aswc-install.htm they should give me access to all steering wheel buttons, rather than just 4 of them from your post. I have a 2012 impreza, so it is different
[Android Head-Units] PsychoMcSatan:
Can I confirm that yours is the model with the volume on the right (on the passenger side of an American car)? I am tempted to apply the MCU update as the version number seems better, but I don't think we've heard yet of any actual improvements. I feel like there are a few MCU bugs such as sound priority. Every once in a while volumes go wonky and while the reset button fixes it, I'm hoping that a new MCU version would make it work more consistently.
[Android Head-Units] ThePapabear:
Yes, you are correct. It is a version with the volume knob on the right side (passenger seat - in Austria it´s the same way ;) ): http://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-2-...s-Android-4-1-Car-GPS-DVD-Car/1504400297.html

It would be really nice, if this mcu version improves the way, the unit works a little. In most cases it is working really good, but bluetooth gives me the one or other headache...
[Android Head-Units] donnieSJ:
Rear USB?

Hello all, first post, thanks to everyone for the wealth of knowledge. I have a quick question: I've searched around and not gotten the answer to whether this unit has either/or a rear USB input, or a rear USB input dongle. Thanks in advance,

Don
[Android Head-Units] PsychoMcSatan:
I still have issues occasionally with my volume of 3rd party apps not kicking in until a system app is running. I'm also noticing that the attenuation of music volume when navigation voices kick in is very inconsistent as well. As I'm guessing this is MCU related, I'm willing to give this newer version a try if it works with our hardware.

Is that MCU posted somewhere or can you send me a copy? I assume it's in the latest .70 system software package, but I'd like to stay at system version .60 for now. Or is there an easy way to extract the MCU files without installing the whole update?

Thanks,

PMS

---------- Post added at 04:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------

Depends on the model, but I think all have at least one USB port on the end of a cable out the back. Some have two. You'd probably want to confirm with your seller before you order.
[Android Head-Units] TheEvilPenguin:
ZTE MF190 problems

My unit didn't come with a 3G dongle so I went looking for one on eBay, and got a couple of unlocked ZTE MF190s. I assumed they'd be the same as the 'MF190 Clone' listed in the first post, but they're listed as having a Qualcomm MSM6280, while mine have Qualcomm MSM6290.

I've disabled the CD Autorun but it still behaves as an unsupported dongle - network search gives an error and when I try to save APN settings nothing gets added to the APN list. I still need to try pre-setting the APN details through serial. I have got it working using PPP Widget from the Play Store though.

If anyone has any ideas about something I've missed I'd still like to try to get it working natively, otherwise people may be able to avoid buying this dongle for this unit.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Correct my post was more an avoid the Pioneer Appradio (or that it was nothing special in relation to other Chinese headunit) not a pro for AN21. That being said I can't imagine a huge difference in audio quality between the Chinese units, they are all probably built from the same pile of poor-medium components.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Because it doesn't fscking matter. The SWC controls on the all the universal variants of the AN-21U are the same. Only the vehicle specific models may be different if they use a digital adapter for "Can Bus" connections.

No, you don't. That's instructions for a third-party SWC adapter that you don't even need. :silly:

Right, but my suggestion was to look it up for your vehicle which you didn't even bother to do. Okay, since you obviously spoonfeeding... Here is the selection that I used for your vehicle; Subaru | Impreza | 2012 | First Selection | First Selection.

TRANSLATED....
[Android Head-Units] flyboy1100:
I don't like spoon feeding, but Some electrical stuff confuses me, such as swc. I'm good with the rest if the wiring, but when it is something I have never done before it gets confusing.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
And just in case you have the additional "Radio + Bluetooth button" SWC controls.

TRANSLATED:
[Android Head-Units] flyboy1100:
I don't like spoon feeding, but Some electrical stuff confuses me, such as swc. I'm good with the rest if the wiring, but when it is something I have never done before it gets confusing.

I have done plenty of diy's on the subaru forums, a few electrical even including being first to rewire foglights on our specific model, but that isn't electronics
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Donald, can you expand on this? You know my troubles with getting my 6th button to work when SW Resistive circuit directly connected to the Key1 wire. Currently I use a SWI-PS and cut off the 3.5mm male plug and soldered one wire to key1. All 6 buttons work now, but I would still like to be able to remove the SWI-PS. I have seen several other posts for my model of car stating that adding a resistor to the SWI-PS has helped.

Are you saying to use Key2 in place of Key1 if on a normal (i.e. Clarion, Pioneer, etc) install I would need a resistor of on the SWI-PS, or to use the SWI-PS and use Key2 in place of the resistor?
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Well, perhaps you should consider reading my suggestions and asking questions for clarifications instead of acting like you know better. Because, I have quite extensively written many times in this thread written on how to use the analog SWC controls for KEY1 & KEY2 wires. They are an analog leads which checks resistance to ground changes in the wires. These changes are caused by pressing the buttons on your steering wheel controls. Once correctly connected, this functionality can be used to manually program the button to functioning pairing for your AN-21U device.

Remember this was my original response to you.
[Android Head-Units] flyboy1100:
I am on the pac audio website, but I can't find where you are to put in the an-21u as the radio. I found the page you liked to, but what manufacturer are you using to select an-21u?
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
It depends on your car. The white wire for the PAC-Audio SWC adapters is the same as KEY1 & KEY2 wires for the AN-21U in that it senses resistance changes to ground. Since PAC Audio only has a single wire, they will instruct their customers to use a resistor to raise the resistance values of the second wire from the car's SWC controls to prevent duplicate resistance values from occurring with different buttons.

I'm not sure about the Ouku but I would assume if you have equivalent wires then you can check. Most analog signaling is either a resistance to ground OR voltage references. The AN-21U Key1 & Key2 wires will only work resistance to ground signaling not voltage references.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Ok Gotcha, my 6 buttons are all on the same circuit, but if they were two separate circuits, I could connect one set of 3 buttons to Key1 and one to Key2, rather than one to white wire and one to the white wire via a resistor. The resistor I recall reading about was added between the looped brown or purple wire to help with the initial programming of the SWI-PS so something completely different. I shall just leave my SWI-PS in place.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Is this a wind up? You cannot be this dense.

The words, "selection that I used for your vehicle" in my original post is literally a link that you can click to see the selections I had picked for you. Btw, why are you doing this when I have already done it for you?

---------- Post added at 05:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 PM ----------

That's correct.

Yes, apparently, instead of using dip switches or rotary selectors they use those loops to modify how it functions for different vehicles. I'm curious what is your vehicle's year, manufacturer and model? I'd like to take a quick peek at what they recommend.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Its a 99 Saab 9-3 convertible. The recommendation is to connect the white wire to yellow/black wire on the SID (info display interface, this would normally convert the resistive input to a bus signal and then to the OEM radio) connector.

The SW circuit is made up of 7 switches, 6 of them run through various resistors (for the 6 SW controls), 1 runs via no resistors (horn).

The SID then either outputs the 'sound horn' signal over the bus if it senses no resistance on the yellow/black wire or a certain media command if it senses a specific resistance.

The problem is that the resistance value for the NXT button is right at the limit of what the Ouku accepts, if I cut the yellow/black wire and connect the SWC side to Key1 it processes all 6 buttons fine, but the OEM circuit is not complete so the horn signal never gets processed. If I 'T' the Key1 wire into the yellow/black wire then the OEM circuit is still complete, but it seems to effect the resistance of the NXT button and pushes it outside the limit of the Ouku.

My current workaround is to use the SWI-PS, since this seems to have a higher resistance range than the Ouku, then use that to map the NXT button to a function with a lower resistance (in my case mute) which is within the acceptable range for the Ouku even with the OEM circuit complete.

I was hoping that maybe the Key2 side of the Ouku (or as was discussed the AN21) had a different sensitivity range than Key1 and maybe 'T-ing' into the yellow/black wire with Key2 would enable both the horn and all 6 buttons to work without the need of the SWI-PS playing middleman. Seems like that isn't the case and they probably have the same sensitivity and just that the need for a resistor is so we don't get duplicate resistance value from the two separate circuits.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Ah, I see that they are instructing you to "Cut the Purple loop wire in half and insulate both ends." I believe they are doing this to reduce or remove the SWI-PS' voltage which it would normally inject to detect the resistance changes. You don't want to have two separate voltage sources when checking resistance values because it can give you false readings; let alone ruin the measurement tool. So, in this configuration your car is actually supplying the voltage which is being monitored by the SWI-PS for "resistance" changes. I would assume the SWI-PS in this configuration is actually using voltage references since the SID is actually supplying voltage and you never want to measure resistance on a live circuit,

So, it would make sense that your NXT button isn't working and out of range when connecting directly with the Ouku and the SID at the same time. The Ouku's SWC adapter has its own voltage and the SID has its own voltage causing the changes when pressing the NXT button to be "out of range".
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Yes that sounds about right. Doesn't really seem like I have much choice in this matter. I know the yellow/white wire on my sid outputs 5v to the swc switches. I guess I could connect key1 to that, but then I'd be concerned about higher than expected voltage.

Yes it is in fact measuring voltage, I.e if it 5v (no resistors) it does the horn, 4.3v = vol up, etc.

I assume the Chinese head unit outputs 12v on key 1, so if I found a way of dropping that to 5v and then connected it to the yellow/white wire (source 5v for swc) and cut the yellow/white wire at the plug (so the sid wasn't a providing voltage) it should work without the need for the SWI-PS.
[Android Head-Units] donnieSJ:
Found a rear USB dongle

Hello, thanks for the earlier replies. I found an unboxing video where it shows the USB cable coming out of the back with a WIFI dongle attached. Does anyone know if that USB is dedicated to WIFI, or would I be able to connect a USB hub there? My thoughts are to have WIFI as well as a permanent connection to my onboard diagnostic via the Torque program or similar. USB is needed because from what I can tell bluetooth only supports phones on these units.

Don
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Yes, you can use a USB hub to increase the amount of ports available. I typically recommend to use a self-powered Startech Industrial USB Hubs in case you ever decide to use a USB HDD. Because you never want to abuse the USB bus power with multiple devices which may try to use more electricity than it was designed to provide. Beside, they are great for automotive applications since they can accept a range from 7~24VDC for power which can account for the voltage drop while the starter is cracking and voltage spikes during when the alternator is charging.
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
I found this:

I'm trying to wrap my head around exactly how the circuit is laid out and I have something like this:

With the car measuring voltage between Pin 3 and 18 and when it changes applying the appropriate function.
[Android Head-Units] Dexterdr:
sound radio problems

good afternoon.

I ask for your help

the radio sound ceased to work normally

here the link to video with https :// db. tt/dY096oRs problem

prompt in what a problem? firmware changed, MCU different tried, doesn't help
[Android Head-Units] Prdie:
just cusious - anyone made some progress with TomTom not taking GPS signal, despite other software does on AN-21U ?
[Android Head-Units] uid65252:
I found the same Problem TomTom did not find GPS signal
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Originally Posted by B.Stromberg View Post

i have a 2 Knob Version Volume at the right side ( sadly )

Why "sadly" ? I ordered the same unit. What is the problem with this one?
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
I dont doubt your logic is sound, however from my background in tech and programming and heavy duty hardware modding in the past, assuming based on known fact most always leads down unexpected paths in the discovery phase. There could quite possibly be hardware limitations and other issues not transparent until i go down that path, and from personal experience, things dont tend to work without a hitch without tinkering. That was why i was looking for a first hand experience scenario just to confirm before i laid down the money. As none is available, i am going by theory that you provided as a backup (which is appreciated btw!)

meant to say recommended, and thanks again for that 411 on the jumper!
[Android Head-Units] ThePapabear:
I´m not B.Stromberg, but i think it is because for an left hand driver, the left button would be easier to reach than the one on the right side.
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
quick question, how does one plug in a usb device to the front of the unit? It has a mini plug in. Do you need to buy an adapter like this:

http://www.amazon.com/USB-Female-Mi...757122&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+usb+to+usb+female

or does it include some form of adapter already?
[Android Head-Units] Prdie:
They always include the adapter (at least two of mine were of very similar packaging) from micro to full usb. As well as a wifi dongle.
[Android Head-Units] dykast:
Audio output from unit seems "dull"?#?

So I have this unit and I am a little disappointed in the sound quality. Now I know it might just be "me" and my install but something seems "lacking". I have a 2008 Mitsu Evo with a stock Rockford Fosgate soundsystem. At first I had it hooked up to this though a special adapter that hooks up to the oem amp. From what I know of this adapter and replacing just the head unit, it is "supposed" to sound better then the stock unit. Well to me it didn't. The stock head unit sound quality wise sounded better. Anyway, I cought a bug and decided to upgrade speakers and amp.

Now I have the unit going to a Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp with Hybrid Audio Imagine 6 1/2 components and a Sundown Audio SA-12 in a ported box in my trunk. The unit is powering the rear oen 6 1/2 coax for fill. So now it is a lot louder and better but it still seems something is missing. The stock system sound quality wise sounded better. I have viper audio installed. I have tried all different combinations of eqs on the deck and crossover points/gain settings on the amp but I still feel like the sound ins't that great. I have tried various sources from google music to cd.

Has anyone tested the rca outputs for what voltage they are putting out? Or does anyone else have it hooked up to a external amp type system with and has some more clarity on the issue I might be having.

Any advice or help is appreciated. Thanks
[Android Head-Units] Android_ski:
Try playing with "Loud" or "Loudness" setting in Zone, that worked for me and made it sound much better than right out of the box.

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:26 PM ----------

Otherwise it was sounding as if it was missing something....like an empty box
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
hi guys, has anyone worked out how to change the light on the buttons ?

this is my unit - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331089665694?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

they are blue and everything else in my car is red so it looks odd.

my other unit (two knobs on each side) has color app which allows u to change the color but not this unit.

cheers
[Android Head-Units] Matt Kirby:
That unit may not physically have LEDs that can change colour - which will be why there isn't the colour app.