[Android Head-Units] kaween:
So, here's the AN21-u disassembly guide.

Hello,

I've tried to make it as clear as possible and I've noted a couple of extra attention points in the pictures which I think may be important or interesting. Please note, I've NOT yet modded the MCU. Reason is, I only have these "stick on" chip coolers (like you find on many graphic cards), and I KNOW that these things FALL OFF given enough time. As a Car Radio is subjected to a lot more mistreatment in terms of heat and vibrations, I'm not at all sure that using a cooling body that get sticked on a chip is such a good idea in the long run.

This guide will show you how to open your unit without leaving a trace to your waranty sticker.

Picture 1 : loosen the screws (4 in total) that keep the plastic bezel in place

Picture 2 : The Bezel will simply come off now. Be sure you note where each flex goes. The picture will not neceserally be identical to what you see, depending on your specific unit.

Picture 3 : loosen the screws (4 in total) that keep the "front bezel mount plate" in place.

Picture 4 : the Bezel plate will come off. Note IF your plate has special cutouts that are specific to your face plate, and be sure to mount it in the same way your found it afterwards !

Picture 5 : On to the rear side, 6 short screws have to be loosened (yellos marks). The RED marks note the 2 LONG screws that keep the amplifier connected to the backside which acts like a big cooling body. This is actually pretty well made. Loosen those 2 screws too.

Picture 6 : You can now carefully remove the backside. Disconnect the Fan connector, and I advise to loosen the GPS (and in my case DVB-T) MCU connectors for easier handling.

Picture 7 : The baseplate is held in place by 1 screw on each side. Remove them. The Top and Bottom parts of the unit are now essentially loose, though you will need to pry them apart (use a flat screwdriver for that)

Picture 8 : Here's the frontview of the situation. That big flatcable was (probably) the culprit of my units' failure to boot and turn up with that white screen). The flex was probably unhinghed a bit from the connector on the MCU board when they modded the front to allow the external Mic port.

Picture 9 : You can now carefully swing the top part of the unit away. Loosen the Flex that connects the drive assembly to the MCU board. By avoiding to open the unit from the top side, you also avoid problems you could encounter when reassembling the unit, as the dvd-drive opening must be alligned with the slot in the bezel (the're 2 screws on the topside of the drive assembly just for that purpose).

Picture 10 : A detail of the AMP "clamp plate". DO NOT FORGET ABOUT THIS ONE when you assemble the unit back together. Generally, I use a bit of heatpaste to make it stick to the AMP chip, that way it's very easy to mount the whole thing back together and you can simply use those 2 long screws to tighten the amp back to the read part of the units' body.

Picture 11 : The MCU. Even THIS side becomes hot very fast when the unit is running ! (you can actually feel where the ARM chip must be located just by feeling the heat on the topside of the mcu !)

Picture 12 : And here's our board, in my case with a DVB-T tuner in the right hand corner

Picture 13 : If you are suffering from bad or no GPS reception, check the red area !

Picture 14 : Detail of the DVB-T board.

Picture 15 : Detail of the BC6 OBD-capable BT board.

Picture 16 : Detail of the cooling body I took from an old VGA card, and ever important cooling paste.

Picture 17 : Mounting proposition and headsup.

Picture 18 : I've used automotive Fabric tape to keep the cooler in place while assembling. Once assembled, the cooling body can not be moved anymore as it is wedged between the units base plate and the ARM board. That way, the ARM not only receives a good thermal transfer to the cooling body, but that cooling body can dissipate heat to the Units' body too.