yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] roystervi:
look at these past post #6745 and #6717 you will see some pictures:... your 08 and my 05 does not have a flasher relay so we have to add button to press to activate the camera...

for my setup I use:

1/ (3) RCA AV Audio Y from ebay:.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/261806373570?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

2/ (4) Momentary Stainless Steel Metal Push Button Switch:.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141606351131?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

3/ (4) Car Rear View CCD 170° angle Front Backup Side Mirror Parking Camera:...http://www.ebay.com/itm/201307629675?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

4/ Diodes:...I have lots at home so I just use D11 J2

*you need the momentary switch because when you push the button you don't want to accidentally leave it on this is a press and release. MAYBE YOU CAN GET LUCKY AND TIE THE CAM POWER INTO YOUR 08 AND DON'T NEED THE BUTTON ON THE SIDE MIRROR. if you do please let me know because I am still looking into tying into the turn signal

*The cameras are not night vision but you can get ones with night vision..I did not check before I ordered the cam but they still sees at night through street lights and the cars behind or next to you.. Only these types of camera will work for the front and sides because those cam has a white and green wire to cut to flip the video.. if you don't use these type of cam then the front cam will be flip and one of the side cam will be flip..so when you install the side cam then one will be ok but you will have to cut the green wire to flip the cam right.. LOOK AT THE VIDEO AGAIN AND YOU WILL SEE THE SIDE CAM FLIP THE RIGHT WAY ON THE SCREEN.

hope this help anything else just ask

P.S the cam are real small and the push button are small also..they come with a 5/8 drill hole
[Android Head-Units] j2gifted:
Thanks a lot for your help. I think I will give it a shot later today. I'll be back to let you know

---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 AM ----------

Regarding the wifi issue, when did ypurs start having the problem? How long had you had your unit? Did anything elae chnage before you noticed this?

If I do the update I will let you know how it goes.
[Android Head-Units] gefi:
Been more than helpfull mate , i will sure think about it twice before i even go and mess with it :)

Do you happen to know where i can get a BC6 MODULE ? Been all over the internet and i for the sake of god cant find even 1 .... or u know a working usb bluetooth ? :)
[Android Head-Units] j2gifted:
I updated the firmware to 2.8.8 and I rooted the unit successfully, but it didn't fix my issue of not being able to connect to the google servers. Any further suggestions?

Also, now I have this ugly red radio app... [emoji13]
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Can't promise anything, but I got my BC6 modules from these guys back in the day : cardvd_lw3147ua@members.ebay.com.hk and ask for a BC6 module for a TH8683.

I don't know of a working usb BT stick. If the idea of using Torque is the main reason for the BC6 module, you can also think about using a USB version of a OBD module. It's what I do, and I find this works even better than a BT version.

[MENTION=5179588]j2gifted[/MENTION] : crap, I had really good hopes the update would do the trick. Your remark about the FM tuner app is acutally quite funny as it shows just how personal stuff like this is : I've always liked this interface best, with the exception of Chris r.r.'s version. Eye of the beholder and such.

Other things to try .... well, if I'd be in your position, the next thing would be trying the full format thingies that you can find in that file repo. But I've NO personal experience using these files, and I can't say anything about the repercussions or possible risks. I'd advise to search the forum concerning this route and look at what others have said about this : not because I don't think it would/could work, but I tend not to advise stuff to other people which I haven't tested myself before, this is no exception.
[Android Head-Units] TheSSJ:
What I would try would be doing a factory reset first (to make sure the data partition is clean) and then run the update to 2.8.8 again. It seems that the garbage from the old version was just kept and made version 2.8.8 do the same...
[Android Head-Units] roystervi:
[MENTION=4736782]kaween[/MENTION]

1/ did you had to do anything special to make the USB version of a OBD module to work

2/ can you post a picture of your USB version of a OBD module or the link to one that is similar to the one you have?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Nope. It's a cheap-a** USB OBD, approx 3 years old now. It uses a Prolific 2303 USB/serial chip that gets recognized by the AN21-U without any issues. Compared to a BT version, it communicates with the OBD interface immedeatly, there's no delay what so ever, it is "just there" from the moment you boot your unit.

The main problem is you never know exactly what's inside of these cheap modules. Unless you have a seller that sees fit to tell you what chip is used (he can do that by simply plugging it into any Windows PC : the hardware info on a PC will show the "Generic Prolific USB" kind of response), it's a bit like a leap of faith.

The OBD looks 100% like this : http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/ELM327-...455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5af57dda57 . I've got a friend who's got such a module with a blue-green sticker on it, that one does NOT work as the AN21-U can't cope with the USB/Serial converter build inside that one, but I don't think "just the color of the sticker" gives much of guarantee the needed Prolific chip is inside.
[Android Head-Units] j2gifted:
Yea I hoped it wouldve worked too. I also hope that this issue would just mysteriously leave just like it came.

I saw those full format things, im not even sure how to use them. Idk what to do... maybe I should leave it as is and just accept it lol

N yea the radio app is FUGLY. I liked being able to save the preset with station names. The only plus side to this is that the now playing info is bigger.

Was this reply for me? If so, are you talking about a regular factory reset from settings, or one of these full format thin [MENTION=4736782]kaween[/MENTION] mentioned?

I did about 3 factory resets from settings before I rooted.

Thanks for the help... I hope we can get this figured out.

Any idea as to why this issue seems to surround Google play tho?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
That is acutally a very interesting remark. You mean, you Do NOT the ability to save presets with station names now ?

Because that works flawless with the 2.8.8 version I'm running.

The longer I read this, the more I get convinced that something has gotten pretty screwed-up with your unit. As the factory reset didnt help, I do folow SSJ's remark regarding the "probably something got damaged somewhere", hence the "full format" idea I launced earlier. From what I've learned, the "factory reset" doesn't really solve the "system got f*cked problems", hence the full-format tool.

But again, I will not recommend stuff I can't personally vouch for. Doesn' t have to do anything with not-willing-to-help, but with pure honesty. I simply refuse to tell you things as "true" if I can't vouch for them. This has been my credo on this forum since the first post I've ever made. I can point you to a certain direction, but I can not tell you stuff as irrifutable truths if I have not tested them myself personally. Hope you can understand that.
[Android Head-Units] j2gifted:
From what I see, it just saved the station number, not name. I will double check though.

What is the process of a full system format? The more I think about it, the more I'm willing to give it a shot.
[Android Head-Units] TheSSJ:
Hi, i remember what the problem with the radio app is (i do have this,too ^^ ):

You can only save stations and their freq if you drag and drop the big station name (or the frequency if the radio can't display the name) to one of the preset slots...so keep the finger on the big text until you see it follow your finger and drop it to a preset position..

Friggin obfuscation of the radio app makes bug fixing really difficult :(
[Android Head-Units] Skratchuk:
Hi all,

Been a while but i need some help please,I have read past posts but could not find an answer. I finally decided to get a rear camera and have wired the red wire to the reverse light and the black cable to ground, I have a picture from the camera when i plug it in to aux in on the android but nothing when i plug it in to the wire labeled camera? I was under the impression that when you put it in to reverse the camera automatically switches on, so does anyone know what i have done wrong?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Yup. You need to connect the "reverse" control line TOO to a line that becomes active (12v) when you put your car in reverse in order to let your unit know it has to "look" at the Camera input. Easiest method: connect the hot-side of the reverse light to the reverse line so that the "reverse line" gets 12V when your reverse light goes on.

There's no way to force this by software : the rear-camera input control line is the only method available to make the unit look at the video-input of the "camera" line.
[Android Head-Units] Skratchuk:
Hi Kaween hope you're good, so I wasn't suppose to earth the black wire then? Is the red one correct which i wired in to the reverse wire?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Hi Skratch. Best Wishes to you too.

I'm afraid i'm misunderstanding you about that "wired in the reverse wire" thing.

To exclude misunderstandings :

To make this stuff work, these things have to be connected :

1) the camera itself must receive a powersource (duh). You can connect the 12V of your camera to the reverse light of your car so it gets powered whenever your put your car in reverse gear. It's clear you've done this correctly, otherwise you'd never see any video anywhere.

2) connect the "reverse" control line to that SAME 12V line. This forces your an21 to activate the video display of the "camera" line of the AN21

3) the camera video output must be connected to the "camera" line of the an21

4) the ground must be connect to ground/earth. This too you must have done correctly, otherwise "no video possible".

The fact you do get a working video display when you choose the "aux" port and manually select that means your camera works, and the cable connections you've made thus far are correct. What EXACTLY happens when you connect the camera to the "camera" line and put your car in reverse ? If there's something wrong with the video input yet the "reverse line" sense would work, you should see a BLACK screen with a "no video" message. If putting the car in reverse does NOT do anything, the "reverse line" is NOT seeing the 12V command signal that should come from your reverse light when the car is put in reverse.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
​

In short, we can't.

Unless the company behind the 786 platform creates a solid, stable 4.4 build -which they have not and I expect they'll never will-, there's no way for us to do that.

As "little M's - Mstar" group got bought by "Big M - Mediatek" some time ago, I can't see the new mothercompany investing in such a development as they have their own designs to cope with.

Makes no difference what version you'd install, all 786 kernels are API16 based (hence, they are 4.1's in reality).

No, you can not use the kernel for a totally different cpu design (Huifei for example is a Rockchip 3066 design ect).

It's the same type of question as people are launching questions how to upgrade Rockchip 3066 designs with a Lolipop. Unless Rockchip provides a stable Lollipop kernel for -face it, aging cpu designs- the answer is a simple "you can't".
[Android Head-Units] sciallo:
Any way you can upload that app somewhere?
[Android Head-Units] typos1:
For stuff displayed on the screen, not the LEDs ?
[Android Head-Units] sciallo:
It seems like the "Disk" app doesn't cause the whole sound subsystem to go mute like the audio or video app without files. If you open that without a disk in it, it starts up on the desktop with the sound enabled...
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
Leds behind the buttons.

If someone tells me how to copy the app, i can uploaded it somewhere.
[Android Head-Units] djblaze852002:
How can I easily export the .apk file? It is installed on my unit. It just does absolutely nothing.
[Android Head-Units] sciallo:
I think you need root...

You can use something like titanium backup or

the apk's should be either in /system/app or /data/app

if you haven't rooted and you haven't deleted sdcard, it seems like they ship with a copy of apks in sdcard...
[Android Head-Units] jakejm79:
Doesn't DC voltage flow from negative to positive, so technically the key1 wire doesn't supply any voltage but rather a voltage difference from ground then the voltage flows from the ground to the key1 wire via different resistance values depending upon which SWC button is pressed.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Well, sort yes and no but you're sort of oversimplifying and mixing things up a bit. Besides, I didn't want to confuse a layman with the more specific physics of electricity. But since you bring it up...

Technically, in a solid metal wire electrons will flow from negative to positive which is otherwise known as the "electron flow". This is the opposite flow of electrical charge that you usually see in schematics which are drawn based on conventional current. To make things more confusing when you learn about semiconductors, the "flow of electricity" (both electrons

and

protons) can move in either or opposite directions in the same conductor depending on the material.

However, electrical current is measured in amps not voltage. Ampere is the unit of measurement of electrical flow, whereas voltage is the electric potential difference. In a DC circuit, the current will not flow without the electrical pressure from a voltage source. So, both a multimeter and the Key 1 from the SWC adapter provides this electrical pressure to allow the current to move not the resistor. Resistors impede the current flow.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
guys please help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ok, so I hooked up my unit in my car, for now only with yellow, black and red connectors. turn the ignition, all ok, unit fires up etc etc ...

now, the issue is, when I turn off the ignition and take out the key, the unit turns off however, the buttons stay illuminated! Someone said that Android units wait 5-10 seconds after ignition is off to completely power down however, this is not the case. Even after waiting 5 minutes, the buttons are still illuminated and I can see the wifi dongle flashing. Is it just because I only have the 3 wires hooked up ? Shouldnt really be a problem as the only ones I am connecting is Key 1 for SWC. Speakers will run off the RCA cables straight into the amp.

Any ideas what to do ? Why does it not power down ?

thanks
[Android Head-Units] patrickoneal:
Sounds like you have the switched ignition and constant power wires swapped. They're the yellow and red wires. Switch the connections and see what happens.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
not possible, I checked the connector on my car and it clearly says its ACC (pin 11) which is what I connected to RED wire on the radio which is also ACC.

Pin 12 is power connector which I connected to the yellow wire on the radio.

Black pin 24 goes to black on radio as ground.

any other ideas ? Should I swap the red and yellow ? Will it damage anything?

image of my connector in the car:
[Android Head-Units] patrickoneal:
It sounds like you have it wired correctly, as long as the stereo harness, and the wiring harness kit you're using were properly assembled in the factory.

I'm not sure what else it could be.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
exactly same thing was happening when I had the radio hooked up to a 12V battery. I thought that was odd.

Also swapping red with yellow doesnt work because when I turn the ignition off, the power if cut off completely and when I turn it on back again the radio starts but its reset with 00:00 time and it does not resume from where it left off.

Not sure what to do now. :confused::confused::confused:
[Android Head-Units] patrickoneal:
It sounds like a software hangup of some sort preventing it from shutting down. Maybe try a factory reset? I really don't know, to be honest. Hopefully you'll get some more advice soon, depending on how busy everyone else is for Christmas.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
thanks ... I can hear the unit shuts down as the fan stops spinning so to me, it looks like the whole operating system is off meaning it is not software related.

I already did a factory reset (because of another issue) but this same thing was happening before too.

thanks for your help, maybe someone else will be able to shed some light on this.
[Android Head-Units] patrickoneal:
One more thing. I found this:

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?p=45526452#post45526452

He makes mention that some units have a delayed shutdown feature. I don't know where it would be in the settings. If it were a delayed shutdown, I'd expect you would experience a really fast start up time when you turn the key back on. Just another guess.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
thanks ... I dont think thats it as the startup is as normal.

I did more investigating and found an option in the settings menu which turns off the button lights depending on whether the car lights are on or off.

I connected then the Illumination cable from the head unit to the cars wire (ILL -) and surprise surprise, it works. When I turn on my headlights, the button lights are on, when I turn them off, they are off. Same goes for when I turn off the car ignition, the button lights are off.

HOWEVER !

I can still see the Wifi dongle flashing even when everything is off. Would be great if other users could confirm (if they have a wifi dongle with activity LED) whether this is normal behaviour. Many thanks in advance!
[Android Head-Units] KID52:
Everything connected to mine loses power after the 5-10 seconds. So it is not normal behaviour to still have power and be flashing.
[Android Head-Units] ThePapabear:
I made a picture. Radio is lying in front of you and this is the part where the two white sockets are connected. The black one for ISO connection (power, speakers,...) is left of the part you see on the picture. Wires connect on place of No 6.

One problem i have with my unit is the phonebook with my Lumia 920. It starts to download it, but stuck at number 15 and loose connection (phone only, music stays up). Telephone calls and listening to music via bluetooth is no problem. Music Controlls work from the unit, phonecalls have to be started via the phone. Eventually the phone is the problem, because sometimes it does not react any more and has to be restarted after trying to download the phonebook.

The HTC mini from my wife works perfect with the phonebook. All contacts are synchronised and i can start a call via the head unit.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
bummer ... what now? :confused:
[Android Head-Units] gefi:
No luck , the member name is no longer existing ... :( And no i need the bluetooth to work cause my program supports only Bluetooth connection :(
[Android Head-Units] Skratchuk:
Thanks for that, this is a pic of what I have got.

Im guessing this won't work because it only has 2 wires?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
*sigh*. No no no no no. :) I HATE my limited command of English. I appologise for not being able to make it clear. It's really simple, but I fail to make it clear to you, which is entirely MY failing.

The problem is not your kit. The problem is not that it "only has 2 wires". All these kits are like that. All "just have 2 wires".

YOU -the installer- need to connect the "reverse" control line that comes FROM your AN21-U to the 12V wire that will carry 12 V ONLY when your car is in reverse.

If you have connected the 12V of your camera to your reverse light somehow, the "REVERSE" line of the AN21-U must be connected to that SAME 12V.

I've made a quick'n dirty drawing to hopefully make it easier to understand : Again, I appologize for failing to make something this obvious so hard to understand. :crying:
[Android Head-Units] sunnyy15:
Many thanks for detail of your information.

Warm regards,

Sunny.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Odd. Try contacting THIS seller : it is the same company as the one I linked to, and they are definitly not out of busniness.

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/151374610442?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
[Android Head-Units] Skratchuk:
Thanks once again mate, i really not understanding still and beleive me its nothing to do with you, you always explain things very well. The only wires i have is a red wire which is wired in to the reverse light at the back, the black wire is earthed. The yellow video lead is connected from the camera to the Android. Apart from that i have no idea what to do.
[Android Head-Units] wtck:
Hi everyone! I have a similar device since a few months and I'm really happy with it. I've been lurking in this thread once a while and huge kudos for all the tips, software updates and even customized default apps. :)

I have always had 2 problems and wonder if anyone has had them too and managed to fix them:

- In some cases, my audio output for non system-apps doesn't work anymore. Radio app works fine, Bluetooth audio works fine. But if I use any other app, e.g. Spotify, TuneIn, .. there is no audio to be heard. The only way to fix this problem is to unscrew the device and plug the power out and back in. This is really annoying as you can imagine. I haven't had it happen for a while but now it did again. This seems to happen if you have your engine running, turn the engine off with ignition still on, and if you then turn the engine on again while still ignited this bug occurs. That's how it is for me..

- Another issue is that /mnt/sdcard is 50% of the time when I boot the device mounted as read only by default. I have no idea what causes this. I always enter Root Explorer and mount the card as writable if it isn't already. This causes all apps that need write access to say SD card not accessible etc errors. (e.g. Sygic, some music players, ..) - (I noticed that when the audio is bugged [see my first problem] then clicking the "Mount R/W" or "Mount R/O" in Root Explorer doesn't work, it just doesn't re-mount the disk.
[Android Head-Units] gefi:
Thanks , this one worked --> waiting for reply :)

Been meaning to ask , has someone tried the 2.9.4 version supposed to be "4.4.2 KitKat" ?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
[MENTION=4782907]gefi[/MENTION] : I repeat : there is NO KitKat for the MST 786 platform.

Mstar has never produced anything higher than that for this cpu platform, and only THEY are able to do such a thing but they won't.

There isn't even a 4.2. ALL these so-called 4.2 versions are simply renamed API16's (so they are 4.1's in reality) and are about as "4.2" as my old Commodore 64 is.

---------- Post added at 11:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:13 AM ----------

...... Let me try again. We WILL make this work or you can call me the worst teacher in the world.

- the red wire you're talking about : that is the 12V you have wired to the reverse light. Very good, you've done that correctly

- the black wire is earthed : once again : you've done this correctly.

- the video line is connected to the Android unit : PERFECT !

So far you have done EVERYTHING you need to do EXCEPT this last step : You simply have to connect a 4th wire to make your AN21 able to detect when you put your car into reverse.

To be able to do that, your AN21-U has a CONTROL WIRE that is labelled "REVERSE". Trust me. SEARCH for it. It IS THERE.

AS long as you do not connect that REVERSE control wire to the SAME 12V that you have connected your Camera itself to, your AN21-U simply does not "know you have put the car in reverse", hence it will NOT switch itself automatically to the video input where you must hook up the reverse camera on.

If this still fails, I'll make a little video of my spare AN21-U unit and hook up a camera just to make it clear. There's NO way somebody intelligent like you shouldn't be able to make this work.