yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
[MENTION=4927791]p64imp[/MENTION]

As Mike made clear : you should hear the fan when you switch on the radio. If you don't, my guess is the fan"s not running.

I've replaced mine just because I found it annoying. When you replace it, do not skimp on quality and get something of a good quality (Scythe is a good place to start).

Resetting won't help. The reset suggestion was for the forum member with the unresponsive touchscreen.

Replacing the board is not difficult at all. If you'd still have questions about the AN21's innards, I might give you some tips as I've disassembled mine more than I care to remember and probably can do it blindfolded now (no joke).

The replacement boards come with the MCU, the ARM daughterboard with memory (inand) populated. The GPS receiver sits on the ARM board too, so it is totally complete. Most of the times, Igo will be installed, the map probably won't. These guys normally ship the newest versions, so if you'd order one now, you'll probably receive it with 2.8.8 installed.

The cheapest replacement I've seen so far was a price quote of 65USD. For a BC6 version the price is 15USD higher. External Mic support adds another 10USD.

Maybe there are cheaper providers of these mainboards, but this is the cheapest I've found which actually does deliver.

With the published guide, anyone should be able to replace their boards if need be. Better said : if you think you can, you can. If you doubt it, you probably can too. :)

For spare boards, contact these guys : http://topnavi001.en.ec21.com/ . Ask for Marcus. Providing enough info, he'll set you up with new parts if needed.

And yes, the value of backups. As we say over here "berouw komt na de zonde". Can't help you there.
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Hi Kaween,

If it is the fan, do you think a fan replacement may fully repair my unit, or do you think its already been damaged from overheating given my symptoms? Would attaching heat fins help disperse the heat as well?

What would you do if you were me at this point?

additionally, if a fan/heat sink combo is a good idea for me to start with, would you be so kind as to link me to a good choice in the two so i can be sure i get the right size/specs for my unit? And is the fan set up as push (air out the back) or pull (air to the inside of the unit)?
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Thanks again kaween!

from your reply it sounds like i'm most likely SOL unless i re-flow unless i'm mistaken. I'm definitely not equipped to do this, nor am i entirely sure what it even involves (i'm guessing bringing it up to melting point so the solder re-establishes contact, like the old xbox 360-in-a-towel trick to fix a RROD?)

Sounds like the easiest solution for me is to just order a new board and be done with it, however if heat is an issue, wouldnt the replacement board i purchase just end up with the same fate 8 or so months later? (barring another collision)

Is it necessary to do such cooling mods to keep these units running long term? I'm sure i could probably work out what you showed with the heat sync mod, though mods like that take a ton of time and i'm afraid i dont have the many tinkering hours in me like i did in the past w/my 2 jobs and family etc. =( I remember my old xbox modding days... i could easily spend 12 hours straight just messing with a hardware mod.

If i need to purchase a new board, is there a way i can do so without dialing out to China? Unfortunately i'm not able to call out to china so that'd kill it for me. =(

Is there some upgraded unit out there that makes the AN-21 u unit last gen that is more stable? If you think just popping in a replacement board would be the solver of all my issues (given the fan is not broken) without the need for a location/milling/attachment of a custom heat fin setup, i may just go that route.
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Again, i cant thank you enough for your help. I'd love to take you up on the cooling block, but there's no way i'd let you do it for me for free :) that's worth at least a $25 tip for sure (plus any shipping and hardware costs of course), and would be much appreciated! (in fact if you could work out 2 of these beauties i'd be very much in your debt. i'm thinking about installing one of these units in my wife's car over the holidays and am now a bit fearful of them to be honest XD) I'm good at hardware dabbling, but i'm not the best at make-shifting things... when i start delving in to that area they often do not work out.

When your back in the land of the living and "well rested" (if there is such a thing), how do you think i'd go about ordering a replacement board without resorting to a international phone call? My Verizon bill would not love me for that!
[Android Head-Units] pedalquickly:
Yep I tried that..I also unplugged the unit from the car so that all power was removed from it.

Still no luck. .
[Android Head-Units] marco.lav:
Android volume too low compared to other volume levels

Hello everyone,

I still have a problem with the volume of my UH.

when listening to the radio, the volume of the Navigator (IGO), or other apps That use the volume, turn out to be much lower than the volume of the radio app, or video or mp3 that are native to the stereo.

how can I fix it?

anyone can help me?

thank's a lot ;)
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
Did you change the audio focus ?

sent with HTC ONE M8

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---------- Post added at 02:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 AM ----------

An21 motherboard 150$ http://m.aliexpress.com/item/162323...therboard&tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

As I mentioned before, it may be a better idea just to buy a standalone an21 with no extras for just a bit more.. mine with reverse cam was 220$

Then you have many extra parts like screen, bt module etc. But that's just my 2 cents.

Unless you can find one cheaper. But that's a link from the hardware thread.

Or you can get one of those radios where everything works and you won't ever have to worry about anything going wrong .. 99$ free shipping..... [emoji6]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/390867483081?nav=SEARCH

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] kaween:
[MENTION=822076]shadowmike[/MENTION] : At 150USD, replacing the board is debatable. At 65USD, it's a no brainer (in my opnion).

[MENTION=4927791]p64imp[/MENTION] : we'll cross that bridge when we get there (ordering). If need be, I can fix it for you. But as there are several different AN21 board layouts out there, I'd need a picture of your current board first to be sure the boards I have access to are the correct ones for you. I might have another option for you, depending on what is inside your AN21 machine, but without knowing exaclty what kind of board you have I can't say too much about that for the moment. When you know or have a picture how your mainboard looks like, send me a PM, we"ll take it from there. And no, I will not accept payment for 2 stupid pieces of aluminium. You get that for free.

Contact me over PM to get the details., suffice to say I may have a board for you here if you're interested, but I only would come up with this when you depleted all other options out of decency and respect.

[MENTION=6124617]marco.lav[/MENTION] : this can be a bit tricky with the AN21's as it lacks a "system wide volume control" like for example the S100/S150 do have. It's a bit like a balancing act till you find the settings that you like.

In my case, the solution was found in a combination of measures :

1) under system, "navigation volume" you can balance the volume of the Navi and "rest" in relation to each other . That should cover the balance between "navi volume and radio output" at least.

Also, SOME Navi packages (like Igo) have a kind of EQ function inside with which you can further tweak the app's output. Could help too. And like Mike stated correctly, be sure to have selected your Navi application correctly to permit correct sound focus.

2) use some 3th party mixer/eq that works systemwide : several freeware non-root eq's are out there that allow a "pre-amp" setting to influence the volume of the droid-sound-part (which means, it influences everything EXCEPT the radio output). Or give V4A (Viper for android) a spin, but that needs root.

3) use 3th party mediaplayers with internal EQ/gain settings. I use Rocketplayer, but Poweramp and about any other mediaplayer will have such capabilities.

4) quoting Mike : "learn to use Pandora or Spotify". (depending on your situation and region, that may turn out to be a good idea or a wry joke of course). As the radio audio stream does not get processed by the Android platform, using a streaming solution may prove to be the easiest solution, but I MAINTAIN my stance a car RADIO unit should not force you to deal with shortcomings of the RADIO tuner part itself. Can't help myself so it would seem, but I'm in good company now am I, Mike ? :D
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Thank you kaween! I think i'm going to let the stereo shop check it out Saturday morning to see if they will decide the issue is accident related (if the fan stopped, it certainly had to have been knocked loose from the collision. This would explain why it burned out shortly thereafter). I feel it is a bit of a gamble, but worth a shot nontheless. If that doesn't work out, i'm going to rip it out of my dash and start disassembling it to see what i got in there. At that point i'll let you know what i find. If the shop decides in my favor and the insurance co offers a payout, i will probably be attempting a repair on the stereo anyway to save purchasing a full replacement, insurance payout or not. Seems a waste to just go with a new unit regardless.

I'll keep you posted! And thanks again!! :)
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
Good luck,

How bad was the accident. If all you had worked on was a bumper ?

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] inergen:
Android Car Stereo Hang on Boot Screen

hello,

I have been searching this thread and elsewhere to try to find a solution to resolve the boot hang screen. I do not know which MCU version is my head unit, only knows the OS as 4.1.

I tried the method of copying the 2.60.6 files to the root of the sd card, and using the method, power+reset, it didn't work. when I did that earlier, it shows update start and update end with a second.

another method I tried to use was using the phoenix copy method and this method was use for tablets. not sure if it will work on car stereo. however, no harm trying and phoenix software asked for img file. where can I find img file?

and where is the home button on the faceplate as some of you did the power+home button.

any advice will be greatly appreciated.

cheerios..i
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
What device do you have ?

You can just hold power button until it goes to the update process.

Also where did you get the 2.60.6 files ?

Our units have encrypted files. You won't find a boot.bin or system.img files for our devices

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] inergen:
this is what I got....my buttons are somewhat different with the OUKU sets.

I got the 2.60.6 files from the repository here.

the upper left hand corner is where I slot the sd card. where did I not do right?

cheerios...i
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
Is it resistive touch screen or capacitive ?

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] inergen:
capacitive. does it affect the way how it go about resolving the boot loop?

cheerios..i
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
Just helps to figure out your device a bit more. As resistive units have Android 2.3 on them.

You can try this https://yadi.sk/d/nbXar5tWcp6Tc

2.7.40 full restore

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] inergen:
thanks for the link, but how do i go about flashing these files. for my head unit, it's Power+reset. didn't seem to work.

cheerios..i
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
Just hold power until it goes to update screen.

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Hmm. I also forget to mention a couple of other possibilities :

1) your touchscreen itself has its own flex cable. If you look at the rear side of your screen, you'll see the large white flex cable. But at the bottom of the screen, you'll see a brown/black piece of flex with some electronics on it. That's the touchscreen logic. On the AN21's I've repaired so far, this board ends in a very small flex (4 wires or something), many times the connection between this touch-logic and the the screen mainboard is covered by a piece of black fabric tape. That connector COULD be a reason for your troubles, and since it's obscured from your vision by that black fabric tape you might want to double check that connector.

2) from there, the signal goes "into" the large white flex which you exchanged already. That info is fed right into the ARM board. You'd have to disassemble your radio to get to the underside of your mainboard, but from there you can see the silkscreen print denotating stuff like y-/y+/x-/x+ which are undoubtably the signals the ARM board gets to track the movement on the screen. Check these for cold solder joints. You can also try to trace what signal gets out of the small brownish flex that comes from the screen digitizer and see if these signals get where they should get that way.

3) if that fails too or doesn't produce a smoking gun, there's the possibility the digitizer itself has gone to the fritz. Doesn't happen all that much and when it does it's nearly always fairly visable (screen is cracked), but it's not impossible. Screen digitzers are replaceble and very cheap -like 10usd-. The main problem is to try and trace the correct part : the part number will be noted on the "bigger part of the digitzer flex" (the controller).

Hopefully this puts you on the right track.

Good luck !

PS : in terms of "cheap design", the AN21 does something very ugly in terms of power subsystem. The Fan for example isn't connected directly to the 12V (clearly enough as it is controlled by the AN21's logic and can be switched on/off depending on fan profile), but when your 12V line goes up (which it will in any car when driving, as the alternator will charge your battery at voltages of roughly 13.8V or higher) .... the fan simply gets the same higher voltage shoved down its throat and will spin FASTER due to this.

So that line is totally unstabilized. No idea what this powerline does and whatfor it used except the fan, but such kind of design is ...... ugly. :)
[Android Head-Units] pedalquickly:
Thanks very much for the comments and suggestions. I did see the brown ribbon you described and it was covered with a fabric tape.. I didn't try to remove but now that I know what it is, i'll dig deeper.

I won't get to work on it for a few days but will let you know what I find!

I really do appreciate your help!
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
This may be the 151 but I fully enjoy learning from your posts.

I have the common sense in general but you definitely have the knowledge from schooling.

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] djblaze852002:
Mine just died too...

Well mine is now dead too just like [MENTION=4927791]p64imp[/MENTION] I can assure that the fan was running and I dont think it was a heat issue because it has been rather cold out lately. When I try booting the unit, the blue hard buttons light up then either turn off completely or get dim. The the screen goes white. I have tried the reset pinhole and I have also tried initiating an update to try and restore the OS. But the unit immediately crashes and the screen goes white. I have sent an email to the ebay seller as it was advertised to have a 1 year warranty. I am on month 11 so I am just barely within my warranty period. I expect I will have to pay return shipping, but I dont mind. Otherwise I will open up an ebay claim and demand a refund. Wish me luck. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. I do not plan on opening the unit as i am trying to get it warrantied.
[Android Head-Units] stricnin:
Audio problem please help.

I've updated and down graded my system a few times and my audio for the apps Audible and Beyondpod has stopped working. I believe an apk is missing because I lost play store too. I found the play store apk and reinstalled it but I have no idea what controls the audio. Also know that the audio for the radio, music and video work fine. Any advise would be a great help.
[Android Head-Units] hamid_valad:
Hey guys.

so i told my friend about updating his unit, and he did. Yet i don't know for sure where he went wrong!

The dvd is not working, and in the settings, dvd version in unknown.

the music app gives force close a LOOOT!

I only know that he didn't update the mcu and he installed a few 2.6 versions from this thread (which contained like 7firmware files) before he found 2.8.8.

so i assume one of those updates were for no dvd version and the driver is kind of gone!!!!

And the music app stop working error quiet a lot, oh mu GOOOOD it's a pain in the a*s!!!

Can anyone help me, help him out?
[Android Head-Units] wanxu:
When I put the key on the car the unit starts booting. After that, when I turn on the car engine, the unit reboots. I don't like it, but it's acceptable. The problem is that sometimes, after it reboots, the screen remains black and I have to stop the car and star it another time. What's wrong? Can I do something to solve it?
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
[MENTION=4169735]pedalquickly[/MENTION] : good luck and let us know. I'm rooting for ya.

[MENTION=822076]shadowmike[/MENTION] : way too kind. But as a matter of fact, very little to nothing I picked up in school ever helped me in my professional life. I've seen people with impressive degrees unable to change a light bulb. I've known last-year engineers asking me if a piece of wire had a + and - side just before taking their endtems. I know a lot of my collegues who simply buy the exam questions to pass their certifiations not knowing didly about the subjects themselves.

I've come to cherrish and respect "common sense" far more than any degree or title.

[MENTION=822076]djblaze852002 [/MENTION] : thermal overload isn't something that is readily quantifiable. Just because it isn't very hot now doesn't mean it is not connected to your situation as the problem can very well have been there since day one (bad SMD solder ball ect ect), nor do the extra measures I've taken to lower the ARM's temperature give you any waranty. When your device is still under waranty then indeed, do not open it and try to solve the issue with the seller as that is Always the preferable route. Be that as it may, you know at least what you can do in case your seller suddenly has an attack of memory loss concerning his responsibilities towards his customer. Keep us posted : most chinese sellers I've dealt with are rather correct, but the language barrier sometimes plays up I've noticed. Make a little YT movie of your problem to refer to in your dealings with the seller : most chinese sellers will ask for some kind of proof anyhow as cuts through some levels of red tape upfront.

Know that it is possible to open an AN21 without leaving any traces or disturbing the waranty sticker if you ever need to : look at the tear-down guide I wrote regarding this issue.

[MENTION=2682244]stricnin[/MENTION] : have your toyed with the audio priority settings ? Try "3th party setting" instead of "intelligent".

[MENTION=2253237]hamid_valad[/MENTION] : oh crap. A 2.6 victim. While it should be possible to get the machine back to work using later updates (start with a .27 version), a "gone DVD drive" has a tendeny to "stay gone". Contact member "cool_head" for more info regarding this issue.

[MENTION=4674232]wanxu[/MENTION] : when you say "the screen remains black", do you mean ONLY the screen stays black but the radio itself still works ? Or is it totally "off this world and without function" at those times ? To be honest, this kind of "power failure due to crank" can cause issues (system corruption for one, but after I found out at least a part of the an21's power subsystem isn't stabilized at all I'm not that happy with the idea of doing letting the unit get whacked by the car's power system on a regular basis) : several different solutions have been presented on this forum, I think the best solution to your issue is to prevent it from happening in the first place.
[Android Head-Units] wanxu:
What do you mean to prevent it? By "screen black" I mean "totally "off this world and without function" :(
[Android Head-Units] shadowmike:
By prevent it, I'm assuming he meant to have a separate power supply to the radio, so that it doesn't have to be powered by acc.

By having an external power supply that's not being cut on and off with your key will create far less voltage drops on the electrical system in the radio.

I could be wrong. But that is how I have my radio setup, but a more ghetto and not recommended way.

I have my radio powered all the time. No acc wire is connected to my car. The draw back with my setup is , it can drain the battery as there are no voltage safeguards.

So yesterday. My power button was stuck.

Overnight it restored it self back to 2.7.40 stock....

Drained my battery.

And caused me to have to charge my battery to start the car.

I knew it was going to happen, but I couldn't wait for that damn power button to pop loose.

I need to put something sticky on it so I can actually pull on it. When it gets below freezing. It's been 20 and less ℉ here the past week. The bezel around the power button likes to shrink until my car warms up.

sent with HTC ONE M8

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[Android Head-Units] kaween:
What I mean is : like I understand you, the problem (black screen) is directly caused by the reboot behavior during crank.

To counter this behaviour and counter the crank-induced situation, several different solutions have been presented on this forum, one by yours truly.

For most users this is probably not needed or overkill, but I'm very happy with it and can vouch for its validity as it has been in use in my car for the last 2 years or so.

"pico ups" : http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?p=55161866&highlight=pico+ups#post55161866

If you're looking for another angle for a solution : unless I'm deeply mistaking, at least one user reported good results with this item h t t p://www.ebay.com/itm/250888204291?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Heh, Mike understood me the first time round. :good: