[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Hi K****.

First of all, a merry Christmas to you and your loved ones. Also, I send out the cooling block last weekend to the adress you provided. Should come in handy.

Secondly, the external Mic plug will be missing on most AN21-U's. So far the bad news.

The good news is, there are at least 2 ways to rectify that shortcoming : one's "quick and dirty" and has been posted on this forum in the past. Basically, it involves opening your unit, detaching the 2 small wires that run up to the front Mic , carefully solder a shielded wire to the soldering pads where the front mic was connected to, and lead that wire to the outside of the unit, ending with a 3.5 female jack so you can hook up any normal 3.5 mm male-jack Mic to it.

I've done that for a couple of people, it works pretty well depending on the quality of the used mic.

The official way of doing this is slightly more complicated and requires some rework of the AN21-U mainboard. It involves (of the top of my head) desoldering 4x 100 Ohm resistors and replacing 3 of them with 0 Ohm Bridges, but you STILL would have to disconnect the front Mic to make sure there's no interference between front mic and external mic. On top of that, you'd have to modify one of the white connectors with an extra set of pins to enable the connection of the 3.5mm jack. In plain English, no, on a normal AN21-U board, it's not just a matter of having a different harness : the mainboard must be prepared the right way to make the connection to the harness which is NOT the case in the standard version of the boards I've worked on so far.

Most of these sellers have NO CLUE WHAT SO EVER about how this mod must be done in the correct manner, honestly.

I'm not entirely sure this extra work does pay off in the end : the difference in soundquality between the "quick'n dirty" solution and the "official solution" seemed small although the mic sound did give the impression of being somewhat louder on the receivers' side with the "full solution". I did the "official mod" on my unit simply because

A) I'm an egghead when it comes to doing stuff "the right way"

B) I didn't want to have that "crap maybe it would sound better if I only would have taken the extra time to do this the right way" feeling.

I'll dig up the official guide I've got and send it to you if you provide me with a mail addres. tomorrow.

That way, you can decide yourself if you want to go through with the "hard" or the "soft" option.

And of course, happy Christmas to you all on this forum.

---------- Post added 25th December 2014 at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was 24th December 2014 at 11:58 PM ----------

Hallöchen Dort !

Very fast : you're looking at a different device than the AN21 is. From the screenshots, it's obvious your radio runs a Rockchip 3066 solution which is typicall for the Huifei-type of devices. The AN21's run the MST which is a very different piece of hardware.

These devices are pretty much rooted and the bootloader is unlocked, but it's very important to know exactly who the manufacturer of your specific unit is, because flashing the wrong Huifei-firmware WILL CAUSE A LOT OF TROUBLES. Have a look at the Huifei side of the forum, I'm sure the're a lot of friendly people there who will give you a more usable answer than I can on this matter.

---------- Post added at 12:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

Hi, as already stated correctly by Mamay72, the differences between 2.8.8 and 2.8.6 are marginal. Not sure it's worth the update unless you really can't cope with the way the radio app looks like in 2.8.6.

As for Torque : your devices needs to be equiped with a Bluecore6 BT board (BC6) to enable Torque-BT capabilities. Look on this forum for BC6 boards : there have been people who offered them in the past so they're available.

Check your "model" settings in the system settings or state your MCU code : using that code, you/we can determine the exact version of the BT board in your unit.

That being said, in case the MCU code does not imply a BC6 BT board, the options would be :

A) replace the BT board with a BC6 version

B) and of course select the correct MCU version to support the BC6 functionality (sounds much harder than it is, if need be we can help you with that)

C) forget about OBD-BT and use OBD-WIFI (works as long as you're using a OBD-Wifi that's not limited to Ad-Hoc connections) or OBD-USB's instead.

---------- Post added at 12:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 AM ----------

Afaik, that front panel does not have RGB-LEDS but comes only in Blue. I've known people having that panel with Green and RED led's too, but they had them converted by the seller or did they own mod to make this possible.

---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------

Haven't tested TT above 1.3.X myself (which works flawless on all system versions starting 2.8.6).

I only got 1.3 to work when I copied it completly to the internal memory storage (that 8 gig space). I _know_ this is a limitation of 1.3 and 1.4 was supposed to solve this but still, how does it crash exactly (what does it show) and have you tested it on the internal SD location instead ? Because I'v heard about several people running TT1.4 and still having the crash-when-launched-from-sd thing.