[Android Head-Units] kaween:
[MENTION=6043931]TimelessNL[/MENTION]

But yes I was not planning to do any firmware update to this device at all, I just wanted a all around device with a basic OS that I can install applications on and not kindly forced to use the default factory one's. Strange part is that the firmware version numbers match, even the "Select device" option matches the output of the posted files here at the forums. and yes the DX images are identical.

Catalog my remark under "better safe than sorry" and "a warned man is worth 2" ect ect.

1. The thing is, there is an option to give the On Screen Buttons the same color as the Physical Buttons, So when either you change the LED color the GUI will also automatically change to make it more convenient. But the thing is... these colors do not match, when I select "Color 1" which turns on the RED LED's the GUI color is actually GREEN. and the same is for "Color 2" which will light the LED's GREEN and change the GUI to BLUE. so something in my mind gives me the impression that the Color ID"s are wrong in software or/and hardware. I don't have that "Color app" installed. this should be there because the DealExtreme images showing such an app.

I suspect, but can't know for sure, your headunit has multicolor leds, but no RGB leds (that would explain the absense of the Color app). AN's come either with single color, mutlicolor or RGB leds in the front part. I you want, I can post the "Color" app for you, and you can see if it does anything or not.

3 and 4. OK this is some progress. since I'm going to work on my car tomorrow I make this question bold, because there is still something strange and I need it to be answered otherwise I cannot continue soldering the extra cables. The thing is: I don't have such a "Reverse" wire... I don't know why but my wiring seems to be strangely named. I have strange wires like [CAM - LINE], [ AMP LINE] and [FCAM -12v]. The [CAM - LINE] could be something like the Reverse wire right? I've tested it while connecting it to GND and it did not do a thing, so maybe connecting it to 12v+ will make it switch to the reverse image?

Hm. Well, if that "CAM LINE" is a simple unshielded wire, you can be fairly sure it's what is used to swich the headunit video to the reverse camera. The Fcam-12V : I've seen that on several headunits: some units do provide the 12V needed for a front cam. Is there a plug/connector on that cable ? Most of the time, it will be a red plug, comparable to the outlet of a low-power wall-charger. In case of doubt : measure it. It should push out 12V if i'm right.

The Cam-LINE must see 12V to trigger the reverse view of the reverse cam. The easiest way to do that is to connect it to the cable that powers up the reverse light of your car. Simply pigtailing it inside the connector or use a T-Tab or similar.

And also the [AMP LINE] is important because I'm planning on installing a AMP with Sub woofers. Should this then be the AMP enable wire? something which is normal called a AUX Enable wire which is normally blue colored and in this case brown.

The AMP LINE is used as a "remote power detect" for you subwoofers amplifier, so it can turn on and off together with the radio itself. Here too : you can measure it. If it does what I presume it does, it will push out 12V when turnin on the unit, and it will go to 0V when you switch the headunit off.

It's worth mentioning that my AN21, like a couple of others too, produces a nasty "plop" on the dedicated subwoofer lineoutput. The "plop" can be heard not only when powering off the unit, I could even hear it coming from my sub when I muted the unit or changed the volume. In the end, I didn't use the subwoofer output line, but connected the rear-lineoutputs of my unit to my subwoofer instead. By doing so, I lost subwoofer level control by my radio, but the "plop" was gone and my sub worked perfectly.

another strange thing is the [FCAM + 12v] I expect F-CAM to be Front CAM? which would mean it should provide 12v when either I switch to the AUX channel or the special FCAM Chanel (if it is even there). The opposite is actually the the case it always providing 12v+ . I could thing of a way that the device enables that 12v only when the user want to display the Front Cam, that way you can use 1 input as 2 different ones because only 1 video device is enabled at the time.

A bit out on a limb here, but as said, I suspect the Fcam is indeed Front cam, and the 12V line is actually an output power for the Front cam, and yes, it's not abnormal it would be powered constantly by the unit as the input selection goes over software and not like with the reverse cam, over a 12v sense line.

6. The problem is if I just cut a hole in the case I will lose my warranty and such. even opening the device is not prohibited

I understand, but I see no other solution to the temperature issue other than to make an opening to allow airlfow.

---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ----------

BT operation for OBD is only possible when your unit is equipped with a Bluecore BC6 BT board. Most of these units seem to come with a BC5. MCU's must support the BC6 in order to work, and the MCU code designation for these units starts with "6" or higher in the LAST group of numbers of the MCU designator.

When the BC6 is in place, no pincode is asked. Instead, when binding, the option "OBD" is presented to the user. I simply choose "OBD" and the thing works. Note : NO blue BT-connect symbol is presented behind the BT devices list like it does with a normal Phone once the unit is connected to the OBD, and Phone and OBD can be used simultaniously.

The only way to do what you want without extra hardware is to have a BC6 in your unit, and a MCU version that supports the BC6.Other options are a OBD over USB (using a new, valid version of Torque) or a WIFI OBD which acts like a DHCP and isn't meant for just Ad-Hoc wifi connections. While some people have said they have seen Aliepxress sellers offering just these boards, I've yet to see a link for such a board. Remember : it's not just soldering the board (actually not that hard, look at my "an21 tear down" guide for a couple of pics) but you MUST have full MCU support for it, otherwise the BT is totally DEAD and functionless and won't even allow the correct binding of a Phone.