yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Not all Android 4.0+ devices have USB Host support compiled into the ROM. Also, not all Android 4.0+ devices have USB OTG compatibility. A good example is my Nexus 4 (which is running Android 4.4 - Kitkat) which not only does not have USB Host compiled into the stock kernel but the device is physically unable to support a USB device due to the lack power. Yes, I could install a custom ROM to enable USB Host support and even buy a OTG Cable Y-Cable that allows me to plug in an external adapter. However, at stock it is not supported.

If you are using this with the AN-21U then I would suspect that the FTDI serial to USB in it is actually a clone. When you install the drivers for your laptop do you have to use a dealer supplied drivers or can you used the signed ones provided from Microsoft? A lot of these manufacturers have altered their drivers to refute compatibility with the clone adapters because it has taken away from their core business.

The only other thing I could think of is that the baud rates may be a problem. Might want to bring it up with Ian Hawkins if you believe that your situation meets all the conditions of using it with Torque Pro.

---------- Post added at 11:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

While the links end up at the same URL, it is textually not the same in the post. :p

Besides, my point was that I already answered the p64imp's question had he continued to read the original post that he sorta quoted.
[Android Head-Units] typos1:
#1896

Yeah, I know not all 4.0 devices support USB OTG, but all the ones I ve tried DID support OTG, plus I also tried a Galaxy S2 that was Android 2.3 but DID support OTG.

I dont have a laptop myself and dont use Windows either, but borrowed friends laptops (Windows) to use the cable and those same friends borrowed the cable from me.

I also emailed Ian Hawkins and he just said to make sure it was FTDI, which I did and it is.

Not using it on an AN21-U (see post #1896 )
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
The only problem is that there are no known USB Bluetooth adapters that has been found compatible with the AN-21U. I do not think the appropriate drivers have been compiled into the ROM because the stock Bluetooth is actually handled by a MCU. So, there wasn't a need to compile Bluetooth compatibility into the kernel. Part of optimization that resulted in the unit's quick boot times is removing the unnecessary kernel modules. However, that also creates incompatibility issues like this.
[Android Head-Units] typos1:
p64imp, why do you want to use Bluetooth ? Its much more complicated than a cable, its slower, its less secure and the main advantages of using it - the lack of wires and portability - are totally useless in this application as the OBD port is only 1-2m away from the head unit and youre not going to keep removing the headunit and taking it into the house to view the stats of your car, which you would have had to leave the engine to get said stats. And on top of that the only way to get it working on this unit is to order one with a specific part added to this head unit and use a specific app designed to work with that specific piece of hardware.
[Android Head-Units] veletron:
Cheers sounds like a good solution, but will it work with android apps. I.e will it allow me to skip back/forwards in poweramp?

Nigel
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
LOL! Thanks, you could have just written that or at least provided a link to the post. :silly:

I guess that is what you wanted me to reference?

Well, actually Android 2.3 (Gingerbread - API 10) did not have official USB Host support. That was not implemented into the Android source code until Android 3.1 (Honeycomb - API 12). This means most developers probably did not how to interact with the proprietary implentations. Ian actually worked with a few manufacturers, like Ca-Fi and Parrot to provide Torque Pro support for Gingerbread.

For example, if you have /system/etc/carit_version2 file in the ROM then Torque Pro knows to interact with Linux devlinks of a Ca-Fi unit. The Ouku unbranded units take advantage of this and is how they are able to spoof their devices in order for it to be USB compatible with Torque Pro. For the Parrot unit, Torque pro checks the build.os properties for the user and if it matches "Parrot" then it uses another subroutine that is compatible with its USB implementation.

Coincidently, this has been a recent topic of conversation in the Ouku thread. I even posted my findings in Post #2421 of that thread.

Well, again... the FTDI serial to USB microchip can still be a clone. The drivers that Microsoft delivers through Windows Update is the most current and valid signed driver from FTDI. So, if your friends were able to use the drivers from Windows Update then I would agree it is a real FTDI chip. However, if your friends had to use an older version of the driver or a dealer specific driver then that would most likely mean it was not authentic.

Probably the best thing you can do is have them uninstall the drivers, reboot the laptop, and see if the current drivers from Windows Update are able to work with the device. Because I am pretty sure that the FTDI drivers that Ian included in the serial driver that is included with Torque Pro is probably modeled after the current FTDI's source code. If you have Torque Pro already installed in any of your Android devices then you can find it at /data/data/org.prowl.torque/libserial_port.so path.
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Yep thats the same link i pasted above that you re-posted below. ;) i just broke the link out of your hypertext to paste.

Also, sorry, i was mid researching apps while i asked my question. If i re-read it i would have seen you said that adapter supports torque pro. Good enough for me! Thanks, i just ordered one of those cables to go with my stereo that's on order. Hope it works as good as it looks!

Anyone have any suggestions for a good powered usb hub? I'm guessing you'd need to get one of those usb cigarette lighter adapters to plug the usb hub in? I'm just trying to formulate ideas that is the most compact and simple so i can get 2 usb connections out to the back of the unit for wifi and OBD2. Would i even need a powered hub, or just a 2 way splitter like this simple little y adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/OEM-UTStarcom...8&qid=1391453360&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+splitter

---------- Post added at 07:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 PM ----------

only point was i thought torque pro would not support the usb adapter that was linked earlier. As i was mistaken, clearly the usb route is the way to go here.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
To be honest. I'm not sure with this particular head unit. I think so, if you back out and close the stock media apps. I'm a little confused right now because I'm juggling eight different head unit threads in my head and the Wiki for this one does not specify it. You might want to check with someone with this unit as it depends on how the MCU handles the SWC to Android broadcasts.

I am pretty sure it will work if you had the CarPc Joycon Exr. Because that device will can convert the analog signals from your vehicle to be USB HID scancodes. There's a couple of caveats though. One it requires a USB port, and two needs a Windows PC to program the unit.

---------- Post added at 01:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 PM ----------

I will always stand by my suggestion in Post #541 and the reasons are detailed in the post. I have the seven port version and they may be a little more expensive but are well worth the cost. Although, I've seen others in the thread use other implementations with varied degrees of success.
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Thanks donaldta,

How do you have that wired? Always on? ACC? switch? Just wondering if its a great idea to wire a box like that to always have power... for device wear as well as battery draw. Wonder as well how that hub does under the surge of an engine crank?

I have a pure sine wave inverter i have installed to a switch. I never have it switched on when i start the car for protection to the inverter.

Also are you just tapping the wires off your stereo's wire harness or are you pulling power from alternate wires under your dash?
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
I have mine connected to a Bosch Automotive Car relay using a switch 12VDC cable that turns on and off with the ignition but powered by the main battery line. The same yellow and red cables used to power the head unit with a Posi-Tap (T-tap) connector. So when the the ignition is off, it also powers off the hub along with the head unit.

It is not a good idea to have it always on as some USB devices remain powered on despite nothing going on in the data lines. Battery drains are always an issue for me because I have frequent spurts where I don't drive at weeks at a time. So, I always make sure the electronics are off or have the lowest possible use when I am not actually driving the car.

That's exactly why I got this particular unit. It handles the drop from the starter and the spike from the alternator very well. Notice its specification has a range of 7 ~ 24VDC input.
[Android Head-Units] typos1:
Sorry, I thought it automatically turned post numbers into links and I typed the wrong post number as well, was post 1900 specifically this bit:

I realise 2.3 didnt officially support OTG, but I think Samsung added it to the kernel - my stock S2 read files from 320gGb hd with no problem, which did surprise me.

Think I ll mess around with the baud rate and check /data/data/org.prowl.torque/libserial_port.so path , you and I know its easy enough to un-install then re-install drivers, but my less knowledgeable friends would get all funny that I m "messing" their computer up !
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
That is the second time I have seen you make this mistake of smashing OTG and USB Host together, so I feel that I need to correct you. Do not confuse USB OTG with Android USB Host. They are two separate technologies.

USB OTG is a Universal Serial Bus property that allows the host controller switch its functionality. This is handled at the hardware level through the Linux drivers. While relevant, it is not the same thing as Android's USB Host. Android's USB Host implementation is the Java Native Interface (JNI) which allows a developer to interact with a USB device using the standard API routines. Without it, the developer has to specifically interact with the device at the Linux level which is not always available since apps are running within their own little virtual machines.

Heh. By the way, is your current Android unit based on the Allwinner A10 processor? I'm not sure but it alludes to be since you mentioned the Android tv box in the other post. If it is running on Android 2.3 then you might consider trying to using the same trick that the folks with the Ouku used to trick Torque Pro into interacting with the Linux devlinks. Provided of course the FTDI drivers are installed in the ROM for the unit.
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
I'd love to use that same setup... mind linking me to the relay your using along with a general idea of which leads you wired to where? Hard electrical connections in a vehicle are one of my weak points... never did go far in learning where that is concerned. ;)
[Android Head-Units] typos1:
Right, sorry, I ve read about the differences between the 2 before, my bad :(

No, not Allwinner A10, its an Amlogic AM3 box and its 4.0.4 (the only 2.3 device I tried was an S2), so in theory it SHOULD be able to connect via OBD. Would the trick work on 4.0.4 ?

How do I install drivers ? (I have Googled it and got lots of results, your advice is better than just Googling something though)
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Well, I can't link you the relay I bought because it was from a local auto parts store that apparently doesn't have a website. It doesn't matter anyways, as you can literally walk into any auto parts store and ask for a "Bosch type 12V relay" and while you may get a different brand it'll be the same thing. Also, here's a link to the "schematics" of how it can be used. Look on page 13, illustration A that is exactly how I have it hooked up with the exception that I am using a hub instead of an AMP.

No, I don't think it would work. That trick is only for Android 2.3 devices where the manufacturer has implemented Linux USB host drivers and the respective Serial to USB drivers have been integrated with the kernel. When using the Torque Pro on >= Android 3.1 devices it defaults to communicating through the USB Host API. Which presents itself in JNI as a "raw driverless" USB device which is why Ian includes his own serial port drivers with Torque Pro to communicate with it.

Maybe try using; USB Host Diagnostics to make sure that your Android devices actually have the USB Host API built-in.
[Android Head-Units] omarko:
yes, thats it. Capitals.

Next question, is it possible to change the backlit on these units ?

again, this is my unit : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331089665694?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
[Android Head-Units] veletron:
Tried searching this thread. Tapatalk search is broken. It shows the search results but tapping any of them takes you to page 1 of 196...

I am just wanting to know if anyone has gotten SWC controls for prev/next and play/pause to work with an android app such as poweramp?

Nigel
[Android Head-Units] KID52:
Steps given in main post.
[Android Head-Units] ecoast:
vehicles:

VW (4.2.5, RDS, color TDA7415, TEF662X)

VW (4.2.5 RDS, color, ROHMS37534

CRV (same)

Camry (same)

sending back unit#3; 'superseller4399' is also 'lightinthebox'; return center is in CA so shipping is not bad...(same with 'newdealstoe2012; = 'lightinthebox')

...so--if you purchase from either of these 2, at least you will know return ship is to CAa nd not HK.

not yet sure where to order #4 from--- but they're all the same seller anyways, lol
[Android Head-Units] djblaze852002:
I just recieved my hub and 12V to 5V adapter. I plan on T-tapping it to the cigarette lighter power (just below my head unit) as it seems that it already turns off and on with the car's ignition. Am I doing anything wrong? I figured this was an easy way to make the Hub power on and off with the key ignition without the use of relays and whatnot.
[Android Head-Units] TOMMYX2:
i get my Poweramp working with my SWC Dietz Adapter.I have connect Key-1 to my Dietz Adapter and prev/next and vol Up down works great:good:

---------- Post added at 05:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:04 PM ----------

I have the Cables CANTX and CAN RX measured with a multimeter and both cables have 5V.

It should be possible to use this cables for a USB HUB?:confused:
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
My plan was to t-tap in to the switch i already have running directly to the battery post on a 12 amp fused lead. I'm currently using this line to run my inverter, so it seems like a beneficial setup to just tap the 12v off this lead to go to the bosch relay that was suggested. For the ground and ACC i was just going to tap in to the wires from the radio harness. Would this work well you think?
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
That's probably not a good idea since that was meant to be a serial line for data. Besides, what would be the point of it? That would be analogous to kicking someone in the nuts because you don't want to punch him in the face. The idea is to reduce the power draw from the head unit not move it to a different position.
[Android Head-Units] TOMMYX2:
ok thx donaldta

i have finished now my microphone Project:)

I have simply taken the Microphone jacks of an old motherboard and stuck in the original prefabricated holes from my car Unit.
[Android Head-Units] typos1:
I notice the holes are marked dtv1 and dtv2, this suggests that some models have diversity (2 aerial sockets) digital tv, which unit have you got Tommyx2 ?
[Android Head-Units] p64imp:
Tommy,

I noted you used the pads on the unit, though in earlier posts people have complained that the impedance is too great to get any kind of quality sound from this connection. How does yours sound? Did you clip the wires from the stock mic?

From what i heard from others, the only way to get good sound out of the mic is to open it up, clip the 2 mic wires, and solder the wires directly to where the mic leads were connected...

Also, does the polarity matter when connecting the mic? If so, how do you know which wire to connect to each pole?

And on those mic jacks coming from the pc, isn't it typically a 3 connection post? (ground/ear/mic) how did you wire that, stringing out only 2 connections? And what is the point of that 2nd connection for the headphone jack if it's not connected?

Sorry, so many questions, but i just ordered my parrot c3100 mic and i'm deciding what path i should connect this... so many varying posts over this thread reporting sketchy results. I want to be sure i do it right.

(this would be an EXCELLENT item to add to the wiki on page 1 by the way...!)
[Android Head-Units] TOMMYX2:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Capa...-unit-DVD-Player-A9-Dual-Core/1551131450.html

---------- Post added at 05:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:09 AM ----------

-:good:
[Android Head-Units] jpapadami:
@ Sciallo and those who are interested.

I got an email back from Allison concerning the TH8686 . He said that this has the same ROM and the same specs as the AN-21 U. The price for the TH8686 (capacitive screen + DVB-T) is $395 not including shipping. If you don't want DVB-T and just the default analog tv, subtract $35 from the price. The warranty is 1 year. Still waiting on a shipping price.

Sciallo, you mentioned that you tried contacting them for support and never got a response. What support did you need? Have you bought a unit from them and needed warranty support or support not related to a purchase? I plan on purchasing from them and I know some companies are very response when it comes to a purchase, but then are not that responsive when it comes to technical or warranty support.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
:good: Nice. I really do like that faceplate.

I believe [MENTION=3081576]sciallo[/MENTION] is still looking for assistance to either rescue his logic board or replace it. The MCU died on his unit, and then I think he killed his "recovery" bootloader. Now his unit is completely dead. Although, I wonder if he's going through the correct channels since he originally purchased a different unit from OUR_STYLE and this was an exchange that was dropped shipped from Tonghai. (iThink)
[Android Head-Units] veletron:
For all those looking to fit a hub, anker sells hubs that ship with a 12V rather than 5V PSU. There are a variety of these hubs with different numbers of ports. They also feature a 2.1A charging port. They are USB3 but should with with the AN-21. Note that a car charging system can produce up to about 14.2V at the battery. I suspect the hub will cope (esp if not fully populated with greedy USB devices). If worried, you can drop 0.7V across a power diode (connect a few in series). Amazon flogs the Anker USB hubs.
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
I still say the industrial hubs from Startech are better since they are rated to handle 7~24VDC and has built-in per port surge protection. Whereas, the Anker hubs were designed for the line conditioning to be handled by their AC adapters.
[Android Head-Units] jpapadami:
From experience with these chinese units, if it was bought from a vendor and not straight through the manufacturer then odds are they will tell him to work it our with OUR_STYLE. Never heard of them, can you send me a link?

If the unit is not under warranty, wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a new stereo, example the TH8686? They'll probably want at least $150 for the board plus shipping. If it's still under warranty just send it back to the vendor and have them take car of it.
[Android Head-Units] veletron:
Agreed... there is the small matter of cost though - and there must be an SMPSU within the Anker hub to step the 12V down to 5V generally speaking, SMPSU's are quite happy with a few extra volts.

4 Port Anker £21.99 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker®-Uspe...d=1391596509&sr=1-2&keywords=anker+4+port+12V

4 port startech £41.99 http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mountable-Port-Rugged-Industrial/dp/B001H7AFO6#productDetails

Will prob buy the startech myself though!!!

Nigel
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Android 4.1 Car Radio Stereo DVD Player Digital TV Dual-Core 2 DIN PC

Possibly. There was actually a couple of replacement boards on Aliexpress that were about $90 at the time but I think [MENTION=3081576]sciallo[/MENTION] was hoping to get a better deal by going through Tonghai directly.
[Android Head-Units] :
I thought it would be possible to decrypt the system.img in some way so that we can analyse the android they build...
[Android Head-Units] donaldta:
Well, since a "decrypted" system.img is the

same

thing as what you would find as the partition mounted on the /system directory then all you would need to do is look through this directory and sub-directories on a live system.
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] alex66:
Hi all.

I have tried to install version 2 of the MS .net framework. I already had v. 1.1. installed on my jasjar.

As I installed it on my desktop, the installer eventually tried to install it also on the handheld device. This installation was not possible. I kept receiving an error message that I had to make space free. Although I knew I had enough free memory, I also tried on the SD card. Nothing.

Then I uninstalled the v. 1.1 to see. Again nothing. Now I cannot install back neither version 1.1 nor version 2.

Any suggestion please?

Thanks
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] alex66:
really...

...nobody may know or have a hint?
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] fslunatic:
Solution

As stated at....

http://blogs.msdn.com/netcfteam/

....you need to install into the \windows structure, so SD installation won't work. If you tell it to install on the internal space, then it should work fine:

<<Installing NETCF V2 to storage card

While it is technically possible to redirect installation of NETCF onto storage card via standard Active Sync/WCELOD capabilities, it won’t save precious RAM on device. NETCF files have to be in \Windows folder in order for NETCF to function properly.

If NETCF is installed to storage card, NETCF files will be initially deployed to it. However, at some point they would moved to \Windows folder taking out exactly the same space as normal installation would.

In some cases attempt to use storage card would lead to installation failure due to some subtle storage card issues. Thus it’s not recommended to install NETCF V2 to storage card or embedded storage and there are no benefits of doing so.>>

I tried running Hitchhiker (http://www.kasuei.com/hitchhiker/) and my Universal started doing weird things today while using Navigon, so I took NETCF and Hitchhiker off again.....no problems since. I feel that the leaner one runs the Universal, the better it seems to work.
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] vijay555:
Can't you guys inject it into a custom ROM?

V
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro General] alex66:
thanks

but as I stated I first installed it in the device and then tried on the SD. None worked. Now I don't have neither framework 1.1 nor 2.
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] EasyAndroidPro:
Hi is they anybody who would be able to port the Domination Holo Light Theme to our SM-N9005? Really in need of a white theme as a posed to all the black and blue themes out there atm

Thanks in advance!
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] mayank233:
373 56652643

Need for note 3 n900 ml1 firmware

Thanks in advanced
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] numan7628:
when i flash cm-11-20131108-UNOFFICIAL-grouper error comes get_metadata recursive some changes failed

error in tmp/update.zip staus 7
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] icedzed:
i have the same error with purity, how did you solve it?
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] lukacar1:
Update recovery.

that fixed my problem :)