yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[RAZR HD Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] lesdense:
I've got a rooted XT926 with unlocked bootloader. I've flashed plenty of custom ROMs on the phone including ones running 4.1, 4.2 and 4.3. I'm gradually moving back to earlier stock-based ROMs because, while the extra features are cool, I grew tired of random main functions that didn't work properly and my battery life was getting progressively worse.

Now I'd like to know for sure I'm running the stock kernel. How do I determine this? My kernel version is 3.0.31-g101ca72. The date of "Thu May 30 18:22:06 CDT 2013" also appears in this subheading of Settings/About Phone.

If I'm not running the stock kernel, where do I find it? I've done plenty of searching but can't seem to find a downloadable stock kernel that I could simply flash from TWRP recovery. Most of the posts of this nature are about unrooting and restoring stock. I don't want to do that. I want my phone to remain rooted but I'd like to know that I'm either on the stock kernel or can find it and flash it.
[RAZR HD Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] penser:
Not really sure how to check, but if you fastbooted back to stock you have the stock kernel. If you found a stock based ROM and flashed via recovery, unless stated otherwise in the post it should have the stock kernel. And have you tried arrrghhh's kernel? It works really well. It's for all msm8960 (or whatever msm we are) devices so it will work as long as you download the stock version.
[RAZR HD Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] JBmfG:
What would be the point of using arrrghhh's kernel with a stock rom? Or, what does his kernel do differently than the stock one?
[RAZR HD Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] lesdense:
At the moment I'm running RageHD 2.3, a straight-forward stock-based ROM running 4.1.2. It's doing pretty much what I want -- everything works, smooth and solid, better battery life than I was getting with 4.2.2 and 4.3 ROMs and improved signal strength. Still, I read from time to time that custom ROMs tend to give improved functionality and lessened bloat but that they also shorten battery life, sometimes substantially. To test this myself I need to know that either I'm on a stock kernel now or that I can find and flash a stock kernel.
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] GoJo ^^:
I've just seen a video showing that the GSIII battery can be used with the GSIV so i thought it could be the same with GNII & GNIII... And even GNI & GNII. Anyone got compare of the batteries? Maybe even tried that already?
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] ultramag69:
If gn1=gn2 battery then gn1=gn3 battery. Nope, gn1 battery doesn't fit... Its too small...

Have both gn1 and gn3...
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] CorruptedSanity:
No doesn't fit.
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] GoJo ^^:
Did you check the video i'm talking about? IT shows the GS3 battery is SMALLER indeed BUT only in one way, the height is THE SAME, thickness too. I thought GNOTE could be same. Note 1 battery wouldn't fit Note 3 of course, difference is HUGE, but Note 2 & 3 difference is VERY small (never seen but i can tell from power: 3100-3200).
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] 43t62Wiinikain@gmail.com:
:confused::good:
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] GoJo ^^:
:good:
[Galaxy Note 3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] GoJo ^^:
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
[MDA III, XDA III, PDA2k, 9090 Software Upgrading] DreamerNS:
Is it possible to upgrade O2 XDA III german (without camera) and VPA III (also german) to english?

Has anyone actually done this?

Tnx,

Nikola
[MDA III, XDA III, PDA2k, 9090 Software Upgrading] DreamerNS:
anyone? I really need this, please help!!!!!
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] lilRikki:
The GPS on my Nexus 7 is not functioning. I do not get the GPS icon in the notification tray. It does not engage at all. I factory reset it, nothing. Over a week ago I RMA'd it, sent it to ASUS, and received it back today, still broken.

Is anyone else experiencing similar issues?
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] AnarchoXen:
What version are you on? Have you confirmed the GPS isn't working by being outside and starting maps vs. just looking for the icon?
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] lilRikki:
Version 4.3 Build JSS15R

Yes. I can get the approximate location with wifi, but if I don't have Wifi & mobile network location enabled I get zero location services. It's like I have no GPS whatsoever.
[AT&T Samsung Galaxy S 4 General] dmc2359:
http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1447727

Thought this was pretty cool, run Fastboot on your s4 to unlock or flash other devices. All I did was drop the fastbootarm file into /system/xbin, changed permissions to 755 (rwx r-x r-x) and boom thats it. Connect other devices to your s4 via OTG cable, put them in download/fastboot/bootloader mode, open up a terminal window, root up (su), run fastboot commands just like on your pc!! I was able to flash files to my Nexus 7 (2013) from my s4 with no problems.
[AT&T Samsung Galaxy S 4 General] mattwheat:
That is pretty cool. What will they think of next.... Maybe theses things can play Angry Birds too.... Lmao. Cool find !

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
[One (M7) Themes and Apps] cronojay:
I have 5 invites for the aviate beta. Not sure what it is, check out the website. http://getaviate.com

If you like what you see, PM me your email and I'll send invite
[One (M7) Themes and Apps] alexxue:
deleted
[One (M7) Themes and Apps] Stephen:
Thread closed,

If a previous thread has been closed by moderators please do not create a new thread for the same topic
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] nahunta321:
Lsis mobile wallet for root Verizon Galaxy s3 will someone out there find this app?
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] nahunta321:
I'm a repost this question I tried putting this application on my galaxy s3 that is rooted but it tells me that my phone is rooted I would like to know anyone have a rooted apk of this app thank you?
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] joekiv:
There are multiple threads in the S4 forum about using Isis while rooted. You might want to check there.
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] nahunta321:
Okay thanks
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] JAYNO20:
Is the mod the same for the s4 and s3?
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] mlin:
Has anyone found an app to successfully control the CPU? I have tried SetCPU to underclock but the settings don't stick.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] sacnotsack:
Are you using a custom kernal? If not that's probably why.

Sent from the One and Only
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] mlin:
I'm not, I'm on stock. However in the past I've been able to under clock stock kernels.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] DroidOnRoids:
It has to be modified stock kernel. You can't fool with cpu scaling values on complete stock kernel.

Sent from an HTC One
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] mlin:
That makes sense for over clocking but I've under clocked completely stock kernels on Samsung devices for the last 2.5 years.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] DroidOnRoids:
I literally just tried it now. Installed Trickstermod, set Max freq to 1.2 Ghz, set on boot, rebooted, and it reset the frequencies back to stock. So no, you can't do it unless it's modified. Also, I remember doing this on my Note 2 and it didn't work on a complete factory stock kernel.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] mlin:
Lol, okay. I'm holding a stock rooted S4 in my left hand. I just downloaded no frills CPU set max to 1566 and it didn't go over that speed, or if it did it wasn't reported. I appreciate you trying to help but while what your saying may be true for HTC, it's not true for kernels in general.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] DroidOnRoids:
Hmmm, but I do remember my Note 2 doing the same thing with the frequencies. And you're right; I shouldn't generalize. At least we know the One can't do it.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] mlin:
FWIW trickster mod doesnt work with the stock kernel on my s4
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] brymaster5000:
In my attempts while porting the AT&T kernel I noticed the kconfig file has ACPU_CUSTOM_FREQ_SUPPORT set to default as "n" (no). So you will not be able to modify the cpu until I either get the AT&T port booting...or we get source code.

Same goes for the gpu...set to "n" as default.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] mlin:
Hmmmm, strange. I've been using trickster mod for the last several hours and my settings have stuck through two reboots . I enabled the "lock frequencies" option and my max is set to and has not exceeded 1242 MHz. It seems like the file you referenced refers to custom clock speeds. If that is in fact the case then it wouldn't be relevant in this situation since I am not attempting to change the available clock speeds but rather simply change the min and max which seems to be successfully accomplished using trickster mod.
[Verizon HTC One (M7)] brymaster5000:
Interesting, it wouldn't stick with Trickster for me. Maybe I will try again...:silly:
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
It's been a pending project of mine to try to accurately measure what is using the battery.

Yes, there are all kinds of numbers that you can get off the battery stats,

but to be able to see in real-time and kill/disable things is helpful.

Moreover, there is a continuing problem of Nooks not sleeping sometimes.

I'd really like to get a handle on that.

Measuring current into the USB charging port will not give you a realistic measurement.

The best way is to measure the battery current using a "battery eliminator".

That's a power supply that hooks into where the battery was.

One of the problems is hacking the battery ID and NTC thermistor so that the device will think that a battery is connected.

Here's my layout that I just got working.

Battery connector is a 6 pin JST SH from SparkFun.

I do have numbers coming off it right now.

I need to write some host software to plot a scrolling graph.
[Hardware Hacking General] E:V:A:
Very nice Renate! But 6-pin! Sound quite a lot, perhaps 2 pins are the same?

It would be interesting to know what gas-gauge that battery is using. I posted

something about this HERE (for a different device/battery).
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
The Nook pinout is:

1 red battery
2 red battery
3 yellow temperature (10K NTC thermistor to ground)
4 green ID (30K to ground)
5 black ground
6 black ground

This has been verified to the extent that the Nook won't boot up on a power supply without two resistors.

Also, I can play with the thermistor resistor and get freezing or boiling temperature.
[Hardware Hacking General] AECRADIO:
Are you reading actual current draw through the battery, or using the power supply current along with the battery?

Parallel connections can not supply actual current draw measurements, you must be connected and read this measurement in series only. Voltage is able to be read in parallel.

Charge rate is also read through the thermistor, as a change ( or delta) of the actual current fed to the battery, and adjusted to compensate for charge level, and current capacity of the battery as a single cell.

Temperature comes into play, and this is the job of the temp probe (thermistor), and is fed back to the charge controller.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
Look, Ma, no battery!

Battery? What battery?

That 6 pin plug is going in where the battery was.

At 4V, peak current at boot is around 250 mA.

Lowest idle current measured is 8 mA.
[Hardware Hacking General] AECRADIO:
battery current/voltage

I was not suggesting there was a battery connected currently, but was curious on how current was measured.

I saw the configuration you posted, and without seeing the setup up close, the pic does not detail the method used to decipher battery current witth the setup you supplied. Power supplies do not suffer from actual current drain as the supply is always constant, and should the supply be robust enough, there should be no sag in current level over actual draw. I see why you did this, and I was simply trying to figure out the method used to measure actual battery current draw, nothing more.

Thank you for the information.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
There are 3 ways to measure current.

The first is to use a current transformer, this only works with AC currents.

The second is a Hall effect sensor.

The third is the tried-and-true method of inserting as small a resistor as possible inline and measuring the voltage across it.

The resistor can be in the hot lead or the ground lead of the low.

This is referred to as high-side or low-side monitoring.

High side monitoring is more desired because you have a single "ground" voltage.

Most small DC power converters do not have accurate, accessible current measurement.

For example, a normal PC power supply can not measure the current on the 5V or 12V.

I bought the specific DC converter that I use because it offers a constant current mode and the measuring resistor was visible in the photo.

I had presumed that it was high-side monitoring because I thought they would have mentioned it in the product description if it were not.

I found out that it was low-side monitoring.

That means that the input "ground" pin is not the same as the output "ground" pin.

In fact, that small resistor is the connection between the two.

The INA219B has a differential input that goes to the measurement resistor.

It is generally used as a high-side monitor because it is designed to handle the high common mode voltages up to 26V.

Yes, you can use it to measure low-side monitoring, but then you lose the auxiliary ability to measure the supply voltage.

Since the measurement resistor goes straight across the two "grounds" I can measure the voltage at the PCB terminals instead of soldering into the measurement resistor.

Of course at the low resistances involved this adds additional resistance which must be calibrated out.

The resistor on the PC board is 0.050 ohms.

I can and will add an external 0.050 resistor on the high side to enable me to measure current and voltage simultaneously with a single INA219B.

Of course, this will add 100 mV drop to the supply at a 2 A drain.

I'll break out the voltage sense of the supply to the far end of the external resistor and that drop will be compensated for.
[Hardware Hacking General] AECRADIO:
Current measurement.

Looking at the device's ratings, I see how you are performing the measurement, using the shunt to measure current, taking loss into consideration.

The '219B is the more precise of the two I looked at. Common-Mode rejection is good, @ 100 dB, which essentially removes the device from the circuit, and you get a more pure reading, without the inherent noise from the device while it is operating.

Differential swing is full range, and Common-Mode is normal with a reduced voltage range from -0.3 V to +26 V as you would not have a negative-leading current or voltage with a battery powered device, so the negative readings are inconsequential and of little use, unless you plan on shorting the battery to ground for some reason, or attempting to measure negative I/V.

Do your findings to date match those of the factory-defined measurements for current drain and battery life?

There are times I find manufacturer specs to be a little more lenient than accurate, but give a good, overall idea on performance while in real-time operation.

Are you able to identify the time required to charge your battery from depletion to full charge, and how long this takes?

What is your actual current draw while charging, and does the voltage change dramatically during charge, IE: +3.2 V depleted/charge begin, to +4.4 V end-of-charge state.

I hope you will post all of your findings/readings so others will understand what you have done, and why.

I am certain there are plenty of interested parties awaiting your report.

To make this a little more understandable, here's the Texas Instrument data sheet for the actual device:

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina219.pdf

There are two types, with identical pins, only transposed, so one can flip one bug over on its back if necessary.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
I'm still using the serial out of the ATMega32u4 right now to get the data.

I have to switch that to USB HID so that I can free up the USB com cable to use for the console monitor.

I (mostly) finished up the scrolling host GUI.

The Y scale is adjustable with mouse scroll wheel.

The X axis is 5 seconds for the minor divisions, 30 seconds for the major divisions.

Here's an interesting example from my Nook sitting idle on the launcher.

The big spikes every 60 seconds are the display updating the clock in the status bar.

The 40 mA or so square waves are a mystery.

However, the big surprise is from the left to the right side of the graph.

The device was fresh booted, the left side is showing a minimum of 95 mA.

The right side is showing a minimum of 10 mA.

That's a major difference.

What caused it to change? A ping over WiFi. (See the 4 little spikes.)

Something is clearly wrong.

This all goes to show that ps and top won't tell you where your current is going.

Edit: It's running on USB HID sensor now and in a case.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
The strange 5 second 40 mA waves have been traced down, if not explained.

I'm running a console on a UART with a USB serial adapter.

Normally the dmesg comes streaming out the console.

When you hit a single key on the console, it gets eaten and a 5 second timeout begins during which 40 mA more are consumed.

If another key is hit during this time, it is actually processed by the console shell.

This also extends the 5 second timeout.

By continuously typing the 40 mA excess never times out.

Clearly there is a bug somewhere. It could be a wait loop eating CPU (and current).

So why the randomness?

The stock software has this on ttyS0, which does not have any level shifters.

I reconfigured this to be ttyS1 which has 3.3V level shifters.

If I don't have a console UART cable connected the RX in flaps in the breeze without a pullup.

Random noise causes 5 second 40 mA waves.
[Hardware Hacking General] Rebellos:
Could you dig out the schematics or model name of that huge buck 4V buck converter? I like it.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
The CV/CC buck power supply is from eBay

The INA219B and a small SOIC8 breakout board were from DigiKey.

The 0.050 ohm resistor was from a small ebay seller.

(I can dig out the details later if you are interested.)
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
I scavenged some acrylic "light pipes" out of a power strip.

They are 3mm or 1/8" in diameter and about 15mm or 5/8" in length.

The have a flange that mounts with glue to the underside of the panel.

If somebody knows where I could find more of these?

They are the perfect size to route the LED lights out of the power supply.
[Hardware Hacking General] Rebellos:
Thank you! I am interested in the solution in general as soon I'll need to make similar measurement setup for few embedded devices. I might go with LDO converter though to maximize accuracy of power source (though the 50mv ripple doesn't seem to matter in this kind of solution THAT much, whatcha think?)

Are you planning to opensource I(t) GUI when it's ready? ; >

//edit: oh yea - LED pipes stuff http://www.mouser.com/Mobile/Optoelectronics/LED-Indication/LED-Light-Pipes/_/N-b1d20
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
One of the advantages to using a buck converter over a linear regulator is that you can short the output for fun.

This is a convenient way to set the current limiting.

I have a shorting plug for just such a purpose.

[MENTION=1767826]Rebellos[/MENTION]: Thanks for the hint on light pipes.

I had (wrongly) presumed that they were all custom manufactured pieces.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
I got a ZTE Awe at a Black Friday price of $20 so I'm playing with that.

I made a "fake battery" out of a Radio Shack 1" x 2" x 3" project enclosure front panel.

The panel has ridges that fit the battery compartment width perfectly.

I cut the length down about 1/2".

The battery contacts are on 0.1" centers, so using a bit of perfboard as a template I drilled some holes in the cover.

I stuck a 3 pin header through the holes, glued it and soldered wires.

The central pin needed about a 47K resistor to ground to look like the thermistor.

Directly to the left (on the small photo) is a 5 hole place for factory pogo pins.

3 of the pins are a direct connect to the battery connector.

2 of the pins are running about 1.8V.

They could be contact closures or I2C or UART or who knows what.

Not enough pins for SPI or JTAG.
[Hardware Hacking General] t_0_0_l:
So one thing that I have been wondering about is the current draw from your USB audio adapter. I was specifically wanting to know the battery life while listening to music with the screen turned off. I seem to remember there being a draw of 150mA if the Nook is in host mode, period. If so, is this some sort of software inefficiency, is it contingent on the USB audio adapter, or is it something else entirely? My ultimate goal is to use the Nook heavily as an MP3 player, even if that means honing some rookie Java skills.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
[MENTION=508663]t_0_0_l[/MENTION]: Apperently the Nook is running in a tight loop.

It eats up that much current just in USB mode with nothing connected.

Getting slightly off tangent here, but this info could be useful to someone.

The mystery 2 pins on the 5 pin connector on the back of the ZTE Awe

prove to be contact closures to ground for VolumeUp and Reset.

The VolumeUp pin is directly in parallel to the side pushbutton.

Powering up the Awe with VolumeUp pressed sets it in FTM mode.
[Hardware Hacking General] ridgemagnet:
This works well if you increase battery size

Just a quick thanks for this post...

I just completed a project to root a Nook ST and convert it into a flight computer... As I'm a new user you'll just have to cut and paste vimeo.com/67223752 into your browser to see an old iteration of this in action.

Connected to the internal UART input I have used a couple of different serial GPS modules... one with a barometric sensor as well. Soldering is a bit tricky but achievable for someone with a bit of practice.

I used a "3.7v 4000mah Replacement Battery for 7'' Scroll Explore Tablet" from eBay as a replacement battery for the existing Nook ST battery, with a couple of resistors that were somewhat similar in value to the above (just what I had lying around). These were soldered inline to 'hack' the new battery so the Nook would accept it. So, with the GPS module running and software on full power/refresh mode, the Nook runs for something like 10+ hours continuously when I tested it (the unmodified version returns 4 hours). This is what you'd expect with the original battery having 1500mah. The case did need to be modified fairly extensively to fit the new 'fat' battery. Although I have no doubt that I could cook up a 3D printed back, it would require kit that I don't have to scan the existing one to a high degree of accuracy before I could mod it. So, I hacked a big chunk out of the middle of the back and then stuck a new flat plate on top of that, which provided the extra mm or so of depth needed for this fatter battery.

So, anyway, if you are thinking of fitting a huge battery to the Nook ST big thanks to Renate for this info as it works very well. The new battery does indeed charge without any issues. The only issue it seems to have with mine is that the battery percentage is a bit random (as I assume that is set in the firmware to correspond with the existing hardware). The battery I'm using has its own protection circuitry on it, so likely the Nook can't really understand what is happening. Proof of the pudding is really in the length of time you have to play with device before it gives up, and obviously with a battery this big you don't need to worry about power saving measures!!

As this project is a mix of hardware hacking and software hacking there is no one location that I can post the project to on the XDA forum as I think it falls foul of the 'no hardware' rules on the software forums and 'no hardware' on the software forums, but I suspect that there aren't many paraglider, hanglider and sailplane pilots on here for which this would be of interest anyway, but if you do want the gory detail please post up here!