yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Google Chromecast] athorax:
I bought my chromecast the day it came out. Since I have gotten it I have had nothing but problems with it.

First, getting it to connect to my WiFi was a complete pain in the ass. It took me 2+ hours and my final solution was to disable NAT, connect the chromecast, then re-enable NAT. So, fine. I got it to connect and it kind of worked.

~20% of the time it works flawlessly.

Now, the other 80% of the time it will say ready to connect and say it is connected to my home WiFi but the chromecast app either says there are no devices or there is a device that needs to be setup. Also, if I manage to get it to work and start playing a movie on netflix, I often lose the control over it during the course of the movie and the only way to stop it from playing is to unplug the dongle.

Has anyone else had this awful of an experience? What would be the cause? I am contemplating going and buying a new router (mine is a modem/wireless router for centurylink MN: C1000a).
[Google Chromecast] muchtall:
Calls to mind the Anchorman quote: "60% of the time, it works every time."

My first thought is that your AP restricts client-to-client communication, resulting in difficulty communicating between your phone and the Chromecast. However, that doesn't explain the NAT issue you had.
[Google Chromecast] the3dman:
I had some of the same issues with losing controls and not being able to pause or stop a movie/video but the Remote Cast app from the market helped with the loosing controls part. As far as the chromecast losing the network connection unfortunately I ended up hooking up a cheap belkin router in addition to my good router and it works with the belkin just fine without loosing connection.
[Google Chromecast] uncorq:
Having similar issues. Using Samsung LED TV. Setup seemed ok, but 'casting' anything from my phone is slow and tediously painful, it even seems to make the apps on the phone slower to respond than if they are *not* casting, i.e. Netflix loads quickly and transitions normally, but when I attempt to "cast" the phone app seems to act slow and the TV seems to take almost a full minute to catch up to what I selected from the phone, if at all.

I have a brand new router; My samsung TV is wifi enabled, I just don't use it much. The thought occurs to me that perhaps there is wifi RF interference so I may attempt to disable the samsung's wifi feature tomorrow and see if the Chromecast behaves more responsively.
[Google Chromecast] TabGuy:
I had troubles connecting to my Verizon FIOS Actiontec router. But I learned years ago not to fool with that router as it makes other things worse. So, I've had a separate Wifi hotspot for years (just another router with the router stuff turned off) and my Chromecasts (I have 4 of them) work just fine with that. If I were you I'd go to Fry's, or equivalent, and buy a cheap router and set it next to your existing one. Routers go for as cheap as $14.99. The one I use cost about $25. Your life will be much easier.
[Google Chromecast] sic0048:
My experience has been flawless using the Chromecast in two different locations. Both locations have routers and wireless AP's that run either DD-WRT or Tomato however. There doesn't appear to be anything inherently wrong with the Chromecast hardware overall (but you might have a dud unit), but the reliability of it obviously depends on your wireless AP and router equipment.

What equipment are you using for your wireless AP and router?
[Google Chromecast] BrianAllred:
Haven't had any issues with mine or my friend's. Two different routers, but both setup and run perfectly. Might be a router specific issue.
[Google Chromecast] MrKleen1:
Mine has been flawless. It set up in seconds and works perfectly.

I have been casting a bunch of YouTube and netflix with no issue.
[Google Chromecast] o2blom:
I've got about the same experience. Turns out as soon as I start casting my Wifi network performance is reduced to rubble and the Netflix & Youtube apps on my phone freeze up. Without casting pings to the (Asus RT-N66U) router is around 5ms. After casting the pings are all over the place (200ms - 1sec) with lots of dropped packets.

I have 3 out of 4 signal bars on the Chromecast, but the problem appears to be reduced if I bring it closer to the router. Almost seems like a HW problem.

I'm using Shibby's Tomato rev 124 on the router btw.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Google has it on their router page but sounds like you're not running the stock firmware, so could be any number of things.

First thing I'd check is UPnP and multicast. If either are blocked/disabled it will cause trouble.
[Google Chromecast] Apk07:
I run a slightly older netgear router with tomato firmware and everything plays fine... I keep UPnP off because (at least on my router's model) I was told it can cause problems.

Try turning UPnP off on your router page, as well as turning off Wireless Isolation
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Yeah UPnP really depends. If it works, leave it. If it doesn't, it's worth toggling to see if it makes a difference.
[Google Chromecast] stringrazor:
Mine works flawlessly as long as the wireless signal is good. Setup was an snap (have an ATT Uverse/2-Wire router). All I had to do was put in the password and it connected on 1st try.

Used it the other night in the kitchen and I kept losing controls and it kept dropping out before I remembered that the kitchen TV is in a bad spot for wireless. Moved it to another TV and it was rock solid again.
[Google Chromecast] oarking:
Just bought mine today, setup and use work great. The only thing is no fullscreen casting (the experimental one) and some frame dropping not using it as it was intended (casting a remote desktop tab for fullscreen games).

It may solve some router issues to include an extender or additional bridged router that has it's own SSID. Just in case it's a compatibility issue. It might help to have a clean slate to troubleshoot with.
[Google Chromecast] Kyonz:
I had a number of issues originally when first using it, the setup was very hit or miss (kept failing) and I had huge reception issues.

Later Google OTA updates appear to have resolved the setup issues I had on earlier builds and I ended up solving my reception issues by purchasing an HDMI extension cable and migrating my chromecast out of my home theatre cabinet where it was getting impaired wifi signal.
[Google Chromecast] bhiga:
Yes, contrary to what Google might imply, Chromecast does not have to be on the same wireless network as your other wireless devices. As long as they're bridged, it works fine. That's how Chromecast can be on 2.4 GHz WiFi while my phone is on 5 GHz WiFi, and my computer is wired.

The only hard requirement is that for setup, you need a supported device with 2.4 GHz 802.11b, 802.11g, or 802.11n wireless because it needs to connect to the Chromecast's internal access point that is available during setup.
[Google Chromecast] rans0m00:
I have the same router just running merlin instead of tomato. No issues with latency.

I did try it at a friends house and they had some netgear router and latency went through the roof for everyone. Unsure exactly what happened but made the entire wifi network lag horribly.

---------- Post added at 06:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 AM ----------
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] Landara:
I have decided to try out WiFi File Transfer instead of USB for loading media onto my Nexus. The obvious advantage here is the saving USB port from wear and tear, and convenience. There are tons of apps for this as well as other methods, but rather than trying them all one by one file by file I thought I'd ask here what others have found fastest and most convenient.
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] mmegalodon:
Airdroid gets an honorable mention, and is a pretty popular choice. If you create an account you get some pretty sweet options that are outlined in the description. I think they have a separate paid service, but it's core functionality does its job well. Conversely, Solid Explorer is a file browser that can set up an FTP server for wireless transfer. Great tool in itself, but I believe most file browsers will have a wireless transfer capability. :good:
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] xene97:
I also decided to use WiFi file transfer. Not only to save the USB port but because I also find it faster. I use ES File Explorer to connect to a remote share. I have tested Samba file shares off of my Raspberry Pi, file shares from a Windows server, peer to peer via my home PCs. Haven't gotten around to testing Mac yet. But I'm assuming if I can connect to a Raspberry Pi a Mac will be no problem.
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] andrawer:
There at obviously man ways , but I just use Airdroid to transfer files from/to my iMac and N7.
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] zeppelin101:
I bought this little app, "Wifi File Transfer Pro" today. It's pretty cool because it creates an webpage on the LAN that I can connect to on my PC and upload files via my browser. It's faster to get going than Airdroid, at least for me.
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] Username invalid:
TricksterMOD and some custom ROMs have ADB Wireless built in so I can just use that to copy files.

E.g.

adb connect 192.168.1.101
adb push c:/users/owner/videos /sdcard/movies
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] negroplasty:
I use Root Explorer to access my Windows shared folders, it works very well and gets two birds stoned at once as it's primarily a fantastic file browser.
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] CallMeTut:
I've also been using ES File Explorer, just set up a shared folder on my pc and connected up to the computer was as simple as doing a search for a local network and selecting my ip number when it found it. Nice and easy way to copy files from the pc to the tablet...
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] player911:
I use WiFi File Explorer

Basically the same program but much better. Let's me do WiFi sharing tether and send files between my mobile devices on the go.

No issues
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] timrock:
Most file managers are capable of doing this. No need to download a separate app. ES File explorer. File Manager HD.
[Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A] xene97:
Didn't realize that Root Explorer also connects to shares. I've been using it for years but never bothered looking into new features in the newer releases. Now I can delete ES File Explorer which irritates me - only had it to connect to shares.
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
So I created a main.xml file in a layout-land folder. But when I run the app on my phone and I turn it into landscape mode it doens't do what it's supposed to do.

If I look at the Graphical Layout in Eclipse the code is correct but apparently it doens't run the code on my phone.

This is the .xml in the layout-land folder

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>

<LinearLayout
android:background="@color/background"
android:layout_width="fill_parent"
android:layout_height="fill_parent"
android:padding="15dip"
android:orientation="horizontal" >
<LinearLayout
android:orientation="vertical"
android:layout_width="wrap_content"
android:layout_height="fill_parent"
android:layout_gravity="center"
android:paddingLeft="20dip"
android:paddingRight="20dip" >

<TextView
android:layout_width="wrap_content"
android:layout_height="wrap_content"
android:layout_gravity="center"
android:layout_marginBottom="20dip"
android:text="@string/main_title"
android:textSize="24.5sp" />

<TableLayout
android:layout_width="wrap_content"
android:layout_height="wrap_content"
android:layout_gravity="center"
android:stretchColumns="*" >
<TableRow>
<Button
android:id="@+id/continue_button"
android:text="@string/continue_label" />
<Button
android:id="@+id/new_button"
android:text="@string/new_game_label" />
</TableRow>
<TableRow>

<Button
android:id="@+id/about_button"
android:text="@string/about_label" />

<Button
android:id="@+id/exit_button"
android:text="@string/exit_label" />
</TableRow>
</TableLayout>
</LinearLayout>
</LinearLayout>

I wasn't able to include the package name because i am not allowed to post links
[Java for Android App Development] zalez:
I know this may be a silly question but is your xml layout in your layout-land folder named the same as in your layout folder?
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
They are both called main.xml
[Java for Android App Development] zalez:
You don't happen to have android:configChanges="orientation" any where in your manifest do you?
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
Nope
[Java for Android App Development] zalez:
Soooo does it act correctly in an emulator?
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
I don't know. I takes ages for the emulator to start
[Java for Android App Development] rexes13:
Are you sure that you havent locked your phones rotation?
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
Yes, I can rotate the screen but then it uses the regular layout and not the layout-land.
[Java for Android App Development] nikwen:
And there is no typo in layout-land?
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
ncesnp the

No, the folder is called: layout-land and the file is called main.xml
[Java for Android App Development] JanuS-1995:
Found the problem!!!

the xml files apparently weren't the same (stupid mistake)

thanks for your time everyone!!
[Java for Android App Development] Androguide.fr:
Disregard
[Sony Xperia T, TL, TX, V] Zippy1:
I'm looking for help moding my status bar. I want to get rid of the battery % text and change the colour of my bluetooth icon.

The status of my phone is-

Rooted-superSu

Custom rom-xperiament

CWM

And I have installed an xposed framework app. I have found modules that allow me to change the batt icon and signal/wifi colour etc but nothing that helps with any of the above.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
[Sony Xperia T, TL, TX, V] el idolo:
Try this one http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=2396989
[Sony Xperia T, TL, TX, V] k_basara:
This one will help get rid of the battery %.

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=2231834

Works on my TX.
[Sony Xperia T, TL, TX, V] Zippy1:
Thanks mate that did the trick fine.

Sent from my LT30p
[MDA II, XDA II, 2060 ROM Development] Gio72_:
You excuse my ignorance but I would appreciate to know if it is possible to load the ROM for Qtek2020i on a Qtek2020. Is it possible, would it work? Thanks for your answers. :roll: :wink:
[MDA II, XDA II, 2060 ROM Development] TofClock:
No , it's impossible for some reasons :

- drivers

- rom size

- ram size

- and so one ...

Sorry :)
[MDA II, XDA II, 2060 ROM Development] Gio72_:
Thanks for the answer!! But could it be adapted?? This way us Italian we could finally have WM2003SE in Italian... :oops: :wink:
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] sherpa:
Is it possible to reduce the height of the navigation bar without installing a custom ROM or without using the DPI trick?

8/19/2013 (solution)

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?p=44794337
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] RaiderWill:
Hello.. This app will do it.. but you at least need root.. GMD hide softkeys...:good:

Hoped this helped !
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] sherpa:
I did try that app but it does not work properly with multiple user profiles.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] Gareee:
Just tried it, and on cleanroom 1.3, the nav bar vanished completely. No way to restore with without rebooting into safe mode and uninstalling it.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] player911:
CM10.2 Kanged rom has this feature in there as well as lots of others like the AppBar/Ribbon support, Halo Notifications, Center Clock, transparent bars, Bar colors and tweaks, theme support, AOKP keyboard, etc.

I've been using it for a few days and feels great. I'm not sure if I supports tablet mode, but I'm trying to get used to the stock UI on a tablet.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] StupidIdea:
If you have root, my app can hide/show navigation bar without reboot - GMD Auto Hide Soft Keys
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] Gareee:
Your app says it does not support tablet UI though... ;)
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] sherpa:
I have already tried that app and it was already mentioned in this thread as well. The app is very buggy and does not work well with multiple user profiles. Start on boot does not work either. I had sent an email through Play Store but never received any acknowledgement.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] shinta86:
You can edit the DPI following these instuctions.

http://chromloop.com/2013/07/how-to...on-bar-in-cyanogenmodcm10-1-on-nexus-4-guide/
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] StupidIdea:
:silly: I replied in wrong thread. Anyway I just got NN7 and I'm testing it. I will check multiple accounts problem, but I cannot reproduce autostart on boot problem on any of my devices including NN7. On topic: PA rom allows to change navigation bar size or you can change device dpi as already suggested.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] sherpa:
I'm going to give this a try soon. Thank you.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] sherpa:
No worries. I think someone else said that set-on-boot does not work either. It could be related to multiple-user issue with my device.
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] sherpa:
That worked perfectly. I created a thread for others here (http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?p=44794337) and I gave you credit for the link. :)
[Nexus 7 (2013) General] shinta86:
Glad I could help.:D
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] ferparedes:
Hey guys I need some help not in resolving this but in finding a way to resolve it...as weird as that sounds.

I've searched on google and here in the forums and there doesn't appear to be any clear answer to the problem.

The problem is that last week, my battery was drained like crazy (no this is NOT a battery drain post!), so after going over the usual BBS stats and logs, I narrowed it down to Media / Download manager / DRM protected media (each app will report it differently). I also noted that my data plan got sucked up with more than 300MB downloaded. Since then it's happened twice more, downloading about 90MB each time.

Going into settings, data usage and disabling background data use for Google services will fix the data use but it doesn't address the problem.

A bit of background: I've been using custom ROMs for years, and finally settled on Slim ROM (which is based on CM10), running on a Galaxy Nexus, so an OTA is out of the question. Also, this is the first time this has ever happened. Ever.

What I need help with (I've also searched and found nothing yet that could help me):

I want to know what the hell is downloading and from where.

That's it. How can I do that? Is there a way to check active connections, bw used and where they're coming from? Some log? Some app that will monitor this for me and tell me where it's downloading all this crap from? I've tried to use disk usage apps to see if any directory is larger than 350MB but all I can see is my photos and music which has always been there, nothing new. Maybe one of the privacy apps that could scream at me something like "this app is trying to connect to this server here". I need details.

I could easily wipe the device and install OS again, but I feel I should really find out what the hell is going on before anything else.

Many thanks to all in advance,
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] sciurius:
I recently purchased a data/charge cable for my N8010. This is a cable that has a small switch to select between data connection and charging. I assumed the data/charge cable, in the 'charge' position, shorts the USB data connections, to trick the N8010 into believing it's being charged from a real Samsung charger. So I ran a little experiment using this cable, the original Samsung cable, and three chargers: the official Samsung 2.1 Amp. charger, an official Apple iPad 2.1 Amp. charger, and a vanilla 1 Amp. USB charger.

For the tests I used the values taken from /sys/devices/platform/sec-battery/power_supply/battery/uevent, in particular POWER_SUPPLY_CURRENT_AVG and POWER_SUPPLY_CAPACITY,

The results can be seen in the diagram below.

Observations:

* The official charger+cable starts off at 1200 mA and after some 5 minutes increases to its peak at around 1650 mA.

* The 5 minute period is most likely caused by the display that shuts down after 5 minutes. Apparently, POWER_SUPPLY_CURRENT_AVG gives the net current available for charging the battery, not the current drawn from the charger.

* A red X is only given when the Samsung cable is connected to a non-Samsung charger. In this case just under 400 mA is drawn. This is the same if connected to a (powered) USB hub. So no red X does not mean it is charging at max current.

* With the data/charge cable, no red X is given but the charge current starts of at 120 mA and after some 5 minutes increases to its peak at a lousy 600 mA.

* When the battery is getting full (level 77%) the charge current slowly decreases. For a normal charge cycle, the final 20% takes as long as the initial 80%.

The question that remains: Why does the data/charge cable fail to trick the N8010 into thinking it is connected to a real Samsung charger? It performs better than when the official cable is connected to a USB hub, so it does something. There's another thread somewhere that states that disconnecting the data lines is not sufficient, but that some specific resistors are required.

http://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=42381490&postcount=26

Maybe I'm going to try that as well.

EDIT: Just to add to the puzzle, the data/charge cable already contains the necessary resistors.
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] kcrudup:
What's surprising is the "A" and "B" charging results- is your cable tuned for the Galaxy Tab series, or the Galaxy Note series? I get the impression the resistor values might be somewhat different between the two models.
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] sciurius:
I'm afraid I cannot answer that. I'm quite confident I verified that the cable was marked 'for Samsung Note' and several other Samsungs but one may wonder how accurate this information was given that it is a relatively cheap thirdparty cable.

What I found surprising (not included in this experiment but in some other experiments that I did) is that when the cable is used in its data setting, it should be a neutral 4-wire USB cable and the Note should charge with the Samsung charger at max speed. But it doesn't. Even plugging in an USB extension cable between the original Samsung cable and the charger can make a difference depending on the cable used.
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] sciurius:
Yesterday I started charging using the Samsung charger and cable, and it ran at 1600 mA. Then I inserted an angular converter (e.g. http://dx.com/p/usb-2-0-male-to-female-vertical-angle-converter-adapter-black-172323) and the charging current dropped to almost zero.

Can you think of anything more innocent than a straightforward angular converter?

There's something really interesting going on here...
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] kcrudup:
If you're rooted, can you try my kernel? I've changed the charge algorithm so that most USB cables will attempt to charge at 2.2A: http://goo.gl/JeP1OH
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] sciurius:
Yes, I'm rooted, and so is the N8010. Can you tell me exactly what I need to do to run your kernel (and how to get back to the original kernel should I want/need it)? I do *not* have Windows.
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] kcrudup:
Sure. Getting the original kernel back is easy (I'm sure it's in 10 places in the forum). But you can either get Mobile Odin and flash from the device, or use Heimdall on Linux to flash it.

Thank God for that :D (I don't run any Windows either outside VMWare and don't know how to help folks here with it).
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] RamHa:
Can U add link for N8000??? Kernel with 2.2A of charging???? Thank U!
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] JJEgan:
Last post SIX years ago 2013.

I see OP is on Note 10.1 2014 forum .
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] RamHa:
Tnx man, tnx a lot 4 info. ufff i really need that kind of kernel for my friend...
[Galaxy Note 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] kcrudup:
Yeah, I'm now up to the Tab S4, have given away all my OG Note 10s (which still work!) and don't root or do custom kernels any longer, performance out of the box is just that good nowadays.

Sorry ... too bad you didn't need this in 2013 though.