[Eee Pad Transformer Accessories] simonplexus:
MOD NOTE: Could you edit this post to correctly embed the images? As im a noob here, it wont let me. TIA!

MOD EDIT: Done!!!

MD

Hi all,

Tonight I decided to take the plunge and flash the TF101 to 4.2.2 EOS nightlies from the stock WW ICS 4.0.3. I got there in the end (thanks Team EOS - 4.2.2. on the TF101 makes it feel like a modern day tablet. Super fast and slick. Cant thank you enough!)

Im a linux guy so I checked out the .bat from the PERI 0.4 to see what commands ADB used in order to get a recovery image on there. Looked straightforward enough, so time to hook the transformer up to USB and begin work. I ensured USB debugging was enabled in the TF and hooked up the USB cable. Nothing happened.

So I check /var/log/syslog and see that something is amiss

Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938223] usb 3-4: new full-speed USB device n
umber 22 using xhci_hcd
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92004.938346] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.142138] usb 3-4: Device not responding to se
t address.
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345807] usb 3-4: device not accepting addres
s 22, error -71
Jun 14 21:12:34 xxx kernel: [92005.345830] hub 3-0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB
device on port 4

Figured this was maybe a compatibility issue, so tried everything from disabling xhci_hdc to wiggling the dank cable. Nothing.

So hooked the transformer up to windows 7 - got the dreaded error almost immediately

After some research, all pointers seemed to imply that the USB cable, while fine for charging, was broken. A pity, I had arrange some 'man cave' time with the wife and was really looking forward to getting 4.2.2 on the TF tonight. But im not a man to be beaten, so decided to try to fix the problem myself. After all, how hard can it be - we are talking 4 wires here.

First, I pulled back the plastic housing from the USB connector. It needed a bit of 'persuasion' by hooking a small watchmaking screwdriver beteween the metal and the plastic (on the side with the white USB symbol on) and pulling the metal connector away from the plastic. This was a bit fiddly, and ill admit the plastic housing did crack ever so slightly, but nothing a bit of superglue didnt fix for me :cowboy: So now im left with this;

At this point, i prised apart the metal crimp to the rear of the connector using some small pliers, then popped out the shield retainers at the side and rear. This allowed me to remove the metal shield.

Then I removed the bit of insulating tape over the data and power contacts

As this point I could see clearly that the white wire was snapped at the solder joint. I used a bit of *gentle* force (:cowboy: :cowboy:) to stretch the white wire a bit further and stripped the end. I then tinned the end and used my butane solder iron (though tbh any decent iron will do) to re-attach the joint

Yes its not the prettiest soldering work in the world, and yes i did slip once and slightly melt the plastic sheild, but im likely never going to see it again and there is no metal to metal contact so should be all good.

At this point, I put the insulating tape back in place (v. important for obvious reasons to do with the connector itself being metal) and reversed the dis-assembly process. When putting the crimp back in place I ensured to use suitable force to ensure that no further stress is placed on the data wires. I also stuck a bit of superglue on the cracked plastic housing and slid everything back into place.

And voila - one working USB datacable again.

In my opinion, the build quality of the manufacturer supplied USB wire is flawed. The USB plug side of the wire has poor crimping of the wiring, allowing excessive movement and stress on the internal wires and solder joints on the connector itself. On top of this, the white data wire seems to be looped over the other wires in such a way that it is always taut - never a good combination where bad crimping is not provding adequate stress relief. At some point in the past my wire has probably been rotated 90 degrees (or so) from centre and the joint of the white data wire just gave up. I guess I have one of my kids to thank for that (though in reality, it was probably me being rough whilest removing the USB wire from the wall-wart charger.

Given the many posts about these wires failing, im inclined to think the problem I encountered is very common.

If you experience a similar problem with your wire and simply cant wait to get a new one shipped, it may be worth trying this method out. Your milage may vary and its entirely at your own risk - I accept no liability for any loss and/or damage to your equipment, your self, your hamster, fluffy cat or anything else. :angel:

I hope this posts helps a few people with their Asus 40 pin connectors that work for charging but dont work for data.