yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android General] moogvo:
The radio gives the "Goodbye" message when the key is turned off. The only time the radio comes on with the key off is when the Unika is plugged in. So... if I understand, I need to reverse the hot and switched power leads where the unika harness plugs in.

Assuming that swapping them and it fixes the key off stereo on condition, what wire connects to my stereo control wire and what about the V2 and ground wire from the Unika harness?

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] donaldta:
Make sure that you swap all four bullet connectors in the power tap extension, if you're using the Unika ISO 10487 connector. I drew an oversimplified wiring schematic for you in how it should be wired. Just in case.

As far as the V2 and Ground wire in the resistive cluster, try programming / using the Unika without connecting either of them first. If it doesn't work then try shorting them together like in the picture above. Also, it sounds like you might have skipped over the programming mode because of swapped connections and the Smart was powered on before programming. The resistive protocol requires that you manually teach all the buttons before you can use it. So, I suggest that you reset the Unika if you can get the Asteroid Smart to behave properly with the power connections.
[Android General] moogvo:
Thanks a bunch. I am normally really good with this sort of stuff... I will give this a try.

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] zeusakatkm:
Hello! I got the Asteroid Smart last week, got it successfully rooted and what not, but how do I convince the play store that I'm using a different device to have access to more apps?
[Android General] arshavir:
Hi, can I flash Russian ROM version to my US version Parrot Asteroid Smart?

Thanks
[Android General] Joe333x:
People have had success with market helper but it didnt work for me. You better off just side loading the apps that dont show up in the playstore.
[Android General] donaldta:
Okay, I got a chance to play around with a brand new install of the Unika and the Asteroid Smart today. The part about the ISO 10487 is still correct. It comes from Parrot with the incorrect wiring. You'll have to swap the Constant and Switched Power accordingly. However, the DIP switch settings I mentioned is wrong. Apparently, if you have DIP Switch #2 ON/up then the Unika does NOT respond to ANY resistive inputs. So, the appropriate DIP switch setting is 1-0-0-0 for a resistive setup with the Asteroid Smart. Another thing I should point the second resistance input is AUX1 NOT V2 as I mentioned earlier. V2 doesn't even seem responsive to ANY resistance changes at all.

Here's something unique that I found with this particular install. There are conflict issues if you have a dual resistance ladders (which requires both V1 and AUX1) that have equal or similar resistance values on both lines. Apparently, while programming the Unika, it will accept the first duplicate value but it won't accept any duplicated value thereafter. In fact, if you hold down a button which it won't respond to, then it will end the programming but the that button will be assigned to the function which the value was initially recorded. The workaround to this is simply to add a resistor between one of the resistor outputs from the steering wheel to either V1 or AUX1. This will raise the values by the added resistor's rating for all the buttons in that line. In this cause, we used a 10k resistor to AUX1 and bam no more conflicts.

Market Helper does work. However, I find that most people are either using the wrong one or is not following instructions from the developer's website. First of all, do

NOT

download Market Helper from Google Play store which is developed by JRummy App Inc. That program is just an add-on for their other Android Packages to gather data from the Android Market. Instead the correct Market Helper app that will spoof your device is

ONLY

distributed by CodeKiem (the developer) at his personal webpage.

The other thing people do is just install the app, set the device selection, and go directly to the Android Market. Of course, it doesn't work! They didn't bother to follow the simple 5 step instructions on the same webpage that they downloaded the app. Particularly, step #4 which says "IMPORTANT: go to Google Dashboard to update the change ( just visit the page, you don't need to do anything ). I'll find a way to bypass this step in later versions"
[Android General] Joe333x:
Turst me im no dummy and have had my headunit set as another device on dashboard and apps still dont show up for me. Not worried about it though, I just use my phone to back up apps and then put them on the headunit. Once there actually installed then the market will update them.
[Android General] Zermelo:
I just edit the buil.prop. You can use ES file explorer and change the model number to something like SGH-T999 (Galaxy S3) or some other device that has more supported apps.
[Android General] Joe333x:
Im glad someone had the guts to do it. I didnt want to mess with the build.prop since no one else had but that's def a much easier and more permanent solution than market helper.
[Android General] Jinster:
Hi. You are right. I tried it, too. Didn't work very well. I think it's because the up/down gesture fights with the left/right slide.

Do you find the up/down gesture easy/natural to use? Personally I think a left/right gesture to increase volume will be more natural after pressing the volume button. Up/down is naturally more of a flick than an even pressured slide. To even out the pressure, you need to turn your finger slightly sideways, making it more difficult. An up/down gesture also means taking care your fingernail does not scratch the screen - which would also not register as a touch anyway. This again makes you want to turn your finger sideways - not convenient or intuitive. Also, the volume change increment per gesture seems a bit small...

These are just my thoughts. You don't have to implement any of it, of course. Although if you are happy to release the source code, I might have a crack at making these alterations myself. But I am a complete newbie at Android programming.

In any case, good on you for creating this program.

---------- Post added at 06:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 AM ----------

I have cross flashed Australian and US versions back and forth without incidence.
[Android General] moogvo:
So to make sure I understand... I need to swap the hot and switched power feeds to the Unika. Set only dip switch 1 to on and connect V1 to my stereo control wire. Then I power the unit and go through the programming for the buttons. After that, connect the Asteroid and power it on. Make sure the Unika is enabled in the PAS settings and life rocks?

I only have one incoming control wire in the harness...

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
Hi,

I've now compiled four different versions so that everyone can choose the one he likes best:

- Swipe vertical (up/down) with and without touch anywhere to change slider volume

- Swipe horizontal (left/right) with and without touch anywhere to change slider volume

Have fun with it. :o
[Android General] jaanusj:
Spotify stream and download quality

Has anyone noticed that regular spotify for android has much better sound quality then Parrot version. I guess that parrot version does not use the highest quality stream (320 kbps) and files available?

Are there any chances to look from app source what stream tha app is using?
[Android General] moogvo:
I tried everything. It didn't work. Maybe the unit I got is defective...

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] moogvo:
Here's something else that is interesting... when I run Torque, it kills all multimedia audio from the tuner, sd card and external drive. I don't know about whether or not it also affects ring tones.

The only way to get audio back is to reboot. Any ideas?

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] Jinster:
Hahaha, you are a champion, mate! :) I will check them all out. Thanks a lot.
[Android General] Psy87:
Could you add a close-button next to the volume icon?

The greatest thing would be a media player widget within your volume control :fingers-crossed:
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
For closing the app you could simply press the back button, or wait 3 seconds for it to close. If this value should be too long for some people I could compile a version with a shorter timeout. Just tell me.

Regarding a media player widget: I would like to keep this app as simple as possible, so it will launch very fast and have a very small memory footprint. It's only intended as a simple replacement for the stock volume control. I think adding a media player widget would bloat this app way out of proportion.
[Android General] Psy87:
[MENTION=922953]K_Hismoom[/MENTION]

Ah, okay. Yes i know what you mean.

For having a mediaplayer widget I might be the only person, altough it would be very handy. But yes in deed, it's only sound control. Maybe for long-pressing the volume button :D ...

Tapping a second time on the volume icon for closing is not possible? In my case a shorter time like 2 seconds would be better I think. Or tapping besides the slider for closing.

Maybe someone else says the same :D

Over all: great work, very well done.
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
I'm working on adding a preferences page to the app, so you can customize things like the close timeout, horizontal or vertical swipe and touch anywhere for slider change, so I don't have to compile four versions each time. :D
[Android General] Zermelo:
Well, I'll admit that it wasn't without bumps. I initially changed a few different parts of the build.prop, and the unit ended up not booting. Of course, I made a backup and luckily I could still connect to the unit adb with a laptop, so I just pushed the backup build.prop to the unit and it booted again. It turns out I only needed to edit the ro.product.model (If I remember correctly).

I also had some issues when I installed busy box, but again, connecting to the unit via the micro usb port and using adb saved me again.
[Android General] Viper87227:
Since you started using this, have you ran into any problems? I had an issue where I would frequently (probably 25% of the time) not have audio on boot. Someone else had the same problem, also using Smart Launcher, and it went away when he switched to ADW. I did the same, and I also haven't had any problems again since.
[Android General] moogvo:
I have checked, checked again and triple checked every single connection. All of the voltages are present when and where they are supposed to be. The Asteroid ONLY came on with key off when the Unika was connected and powered to begin with. I swapped the wires as you described to correct the wiring discrepancy from the factory. It no longer powers the Asteroid on with the key off.

I connected V1 to the steering control. I connected Aux 1, Aux 2 and Ground. connected each wire to ground while another wire was connected to the steering control wire. There is a single resistance wire that comes to the stereo harness. I traced it while referencing the factory shop manuals. It is indeed a restive system.

The only thing I can get the Unika to do is to either flash an amber light or a constant red light depending upon the position of the dip switches. I have set the dips according to the quick start guide as well as your instructions here. Resetting it does nothing, pushing the volume buttons does nothing. Following the installation and programming instructions does nothing. I sat in the car for 7 hours yesterday trying every single configuration possible with every single combination of wiring.

I have just completed the installation of a broadcast studio including digital audio switchers, remote transmitter controllers, VOIP boxes, remote audio patches, satellite transponder controllers and remote component start circuits. I PROMISE you that I know how to use a DVOM in addition to many other tools. Next to the work I do every day, Car stereos are simple. I do have to rely on directions when it comes to proprietary circuit designs and since the instructions were poor to begin with, it has made it nearly impossible. Thank you for your instructions in various posts here. After yesterday, I have to conclude that this Unika device must be defective. Connecting it cannot be this big of a deal. I am going to send this one back and try another one before scrapping the idea altogether.

As for the volume levels when running torque, I checked all of them and they are all up. I have tried to mute and un-mute all sources. To my knowledge, Torque doesn't make any sounds so I can see why it would take over the audio from the device.

***TORQUE UPDATE: It seems that if the warning voice messages are enabled in Torque, it kills off any other audio sources. I deactivated the warnings and all is good again.
[Android General] <Bulldog>:
Unika problems

Hey, guys. I have a problem with Unika. She is constantly blinking yellow LED and does not respond to reset. Prior to that, everything worked perfectly! What do I do? Maybe there is a way to reset the Unika?

Thank you!

Dmitri.
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
Sure, I'll look into it.
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
[MENTION=5389783]donaldta[/MENTION]

Could you please test the attached apk, if it detects and correctly recognizes the key events?
[Android General] donaldta:
Excellent. I didn't know this part of the problem had been resolved. I assumed when you responded "it didn't work" that it pertained to this as well. My bad. Sorry for beating a dead horse, as they say.

It sounds like the Unika has failed at this point since it does not respond to a hold down reset. :( Though it would have been nice to know the resistance values for the buttons and the symptoms while the dip switch was in the correct position. I could have been able to duplicate it here and make sure the Unika was sensitive enough for the discrete values and their difference between them.

Nice. I'm glad you found a workaround to the symptoms, though it would be better if the developer or Parrot's developers were able to resolve core problem.

P.s., could you do me a favor and edit out the the quotes not pertaining to your response when replying? I only ask because this forum tends to merge posts if the same author continues to submit replies to other messages shortly after. So, when you replied to my last message which contained responses to you and K_Hismoom, it took up more space than necessary.

It works, thanks! The Mute button operates as expected considering there is no VOLUME_MUTE key event in this version of Android. Though, there is a slight issue with the volume up and down buttons because they have existing key events. It appears that the key presses are still being passed to Android.View which causes the internal Volume_UI to popup over yours. Since your app no longer has focus, it won't respond to the Mute button till the other one goes away.

The only workaround at this point was to comment out the respective lines in the qwerty.kl file so that the VOLUME_UP and VOLUME_DOWN key events weren't activated. But, that's rather risky since it is supposed to be the catch all file for any keyboard that does not have a specific layout. To avoid this, can you please trap the key presses for the two existing events so that it doesn't get passed along?
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
Actually my event handler is supposed to also catch those two keys, but maybe they're handled differently on the actual device than on the emulator. I guess, I'll have to research this matter further...
[Android General] donaldta:
I'll also check a few things. It may have to do something with Asteroid Tweaker. I noticed the other day on android monitor that when it is installed that it runs an emulator. I'm guessing the developer uses this to get away with certain tweaks.

EDIT: Shutting down the emulator and uninstalling Asteroid Tweaker didn't change a thing.
[Android General] moogvo:
Yeah. sorry about that. I was posting from my phone which makes editing kind of sticky.

I called Crutchfield yesterday afternoon. They are sending me another unit and have emailed me a shipping label to return the one I have, which...

[SIDENOTE]

I had avoided Crutchfield for many years because I always thought that they were too pricey... Further research kind of shows that they are not, particularly when you get the free extras and the level of customer service they offer... So, note to anyone looking to buy one of these... If you DON'T buy it from them and you wind up having problems, good luck getting them resolved! As far as cost... I don't know that I actually paid any more than I would have if I had to buy all the installation crap extra and pay for shipping...

[/SIDENOTE]

Back to the point at hand... If I remember correctly, the DVOM showed a direct short to ground when no buttons were pressed and showed different values when each of them were pressed, although I was too aggravated to remember the resistance values by then from running all over the planet to get the factory service manuals to figure out which wire I was looking at.

On the up-side, I DID score a free set of factory service manuals... from the DEALER no less! (I seem to get a good deal of free stuff from that particular dealership because I am part of a TV show that ran on the Speed Channel... They think I am a celebrity. LOL!)

So the Crutch has shipped me another package and I hope to have it here with me tomorrow or Friday.

Can you help me one step further and tell me which pin in the Unika harness is SUPPOSED to be constant 12V+ and which one is switched 12V+? That would be a great starting point! If I can't make the new one work, I will be sure to get teh resistance values while I am in there.

Thanks again!
[Android General] mackeystingray:
Hm. I noticed this as well as spotty bluetooth connection which is more of a concern to me as I use torque with it.

I'll try switching and see if it cures the problem.
[Android General] thedrmonkey:
I'm having an issue where whenever I load ANY amount of apps the unit ends up resetting to defaults (it even shows a screenshot of Creature from the Black Lagoon)...not sure if that's normal. Anyways, it's retained root, but it constantly resets to defaults and it's starting to get annoying. Could heat be a factor? I live in Houston, TX and it's always hot and the inside of my car heats up even worse (black car with black leather).
[Android General] donaldta:
I've written it a few times already, so how about a picture instead?

Btw, the connector on the harness above is a Dual Row Male Mini-Fit Jr. Molex Connector, part# 39-01-2041. The female counterpart on the Unika ISO and MKi extensions cables is part# 39-01-3042. Incidentally, this is the same connection used on the ATX 4-pin (2x2) 12V cables though with different wire usages.
[Android General] Nanoman66:
I've Had these Problems from the Start

I've noticed these problems from the start. I've had the AS for about 4 months. I wrote them off as early adopter/crappy hardware. But I've also been running Holo Launcher since the day I rooted it. I wonder if that's the source of some of my problems... I'll update if removing it solves it for me. :fingers-crossed:
[Android General] Sirgeekalot:
Anyone else having issues with the Unit not reading the Artist in the ID3 Tags?

i've removed all V1 tags and rewritten the V2.3 tags.

i've also destroyed the Music DB using Asteroid Tweaker and moved the Files into a Different folder to ensure that the Data isn't being copied over.

getting a bit annoying having to search through the folders instead of using the artist tags.
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
Here's a new version of my volume control app.

It now includes persistent settings to customize its behavior.

Default behavior is:

- vertical swipe for volume change

- no touch anywhere to change slider

- timeout of 3 seconds until it closes

It also includes experimental support for VOLUME_MUTE, VOLUME_UP and VOLUME_DOWN buttons via HID (buttons connected via USB, e.g. a keyboard). Of course these button presses are only handled when the app is running in the foreground.

Have fun with it.
[Android General] donaldta:
Awesome. Love the new settings page.

FYI, the Mute Button is fine as reported before. The volume buttons from HID still gets passed to Parrot's Volume UI and takes over a moment or two after either one of the buttons are pressed. The Unika's volume up and down buttons; however, take over immediately.

I'm curious. How are you catching the volume buttons? As I understand it, if you use onKeyDown and pass it "return true" it shouldn't pass it down. For example...

[MENTION=439709]override[/MENTION]
public boolean onKeyDown(int keyCode, KeyEvent event) {
super.onKeyDown(keyCode, event);
if (keyCode == KeyEvent.VOLUME_UP) {
[your code here];
return true;
}
**return false;**
}
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
That's more or less the code, except that KeyEvent.VOLUME_UP ist undefined in API level 10 (Gingerbread), so I use the codes you provided (114 and 115) and super.onKeyDown is only called, if I don't handle the keys myself.

[MENTION=439709]override[/MENTION]
public boolean onKeyDown(int keyCode, KeyEvent event) {
switch (event.getScanCode()) {
// Mute button
case 113:
MuteVolume();
return true;
// Volume down
case 114:
DecreaseVolume();
return true;
// Volume up
case 115:
IncreaseVolume();
return true;
default:
return super.onKeyDown(keyCode, event);
}
}
[Android General] donaldta:
Actually, the VOLUME_UP and VOLUME_DOWN key events were added in API 1 (BASE), otherwise they wouldn't have been executed by the qwerty.kl file in API 10 (Gingerbread). There is a column on the left side of Google's Android API Guide for Key Events which has a drop down filter for "API Level" that greys out events on right side not yet implemented for the selected version.

It's only necessary to use the scancode to trap VOLUME_MUTE because it isn't available in API 10 (Gingerbread). Google didn't add it to Android until API 11 (Honeycomb).
[Android General] K_Hismoom:
Well, actually you're right, sorry, I must have been blind.
[Android General] moogvo:
Ok... so today I attempted to install the Unika once again, and again, no dice.

When I checked the resistance between ground and the stereo return, I got a complete open circuit no matter what. When I moved the probe between 12VDC+ and the stereo return, I got different resistance values for each button. Those values are as follows:

Volume Up: 294 ohms

Volume Dn: 248 ohms

Seek Up: 1180 ohms

Seek Dn: 2370 ohms

Which is exactly what is specified in the vehicle service manual.

So understanding that the system is charged positive, I can't connect V2 AND ground to the switched battery source, since that would create a dead short and wires would start smoking.

So then, what I did was this:

V1 to the control return wire from the buttons. V2 to switched positive. Flashing yellow LED on power up. reset does nothing.

V1 to the control return wire from the buttons. V2 to ground. Flashing yellow LED on power up. reset does nothing.

V1 to the control return wire from the buttons. V2 and Ground to vehicle ground. Flashing yellow LED on power up. reset does nothing.

V1 to the control return wire from the buttons. V2 to vehicle ground. Ground floating. Flashing yellow LED on power up. reset does nothing.

I tried 2 different Unika units and 2 different wiring harnesses. I am not getting anywhere with this!

I am at a complete loss... ANY ideas?

As a side note, I am also intrigued by the idea of building an extended control box by using momentary push buttons, resisters of different values and a radio shack project case to house it all, tied back to the original buttons... Maybe even change the steering wheel for one with more buttons since the magic happens at the buttons... Just a thought.