yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android General] donaldta:
Curious, do you have a multimeter that has auto-settings/scaling or did you have manual settings? As far as I know, you're not supposed to test resistance of a live circuit as it tends to dirty the results, and if the voltage is high enough you can pop a fuse or ruin a multimeter.

Okay, I learned something today, there is more than one type of resistance ladders; negative and positive. It seems all the cars that I happened to have worked on had negative resistance ladders. Meaning that the resistance values can be measured between the resistor to ground when a button is pressed. This is analogous to holding the separate leads of your multimeter on opposite legs of a resistor. And, this is how the Unika works in the "1-0-0-0" dip switch setting with the V1 (data 1),

AUX1

(data 2), and GND wires.

This means all the advice that I've been telling you was based on a negative resistance and was wrong for your vehicle. Since it appears you may have a positive resistive system, I not sure how helpful that I can be to you since I've never had the privilege to either work with them let alone with the Unika. Though I did find the following post from the Parrot Developer forum that might give us an idea.

The "without OEM radio" setting is the 1-0-0-0 dip switch setting and works exactly as I explained on a negative resistance system. I even tested Aux 1 through 8 wires and the above is correct. However, it sounds like "with OEM radio" is what you need to use which is 1-1-0-0 but I am not sure exactly how you would wire it.

Something I might suggest is to plug in your original radio but intercept SWC wire between the car and the radio with your multimeter to measure how much DC voltage is necessary for the button presses to work your radio. From reading various sites, most positive resistive systems do not use more than +5V and anything more will require a voltage divider to prevent it from frying the circuity of the SWC adapter (in this case the Unika).
[Android General] moogvo:
You can check resistance from positive to positive in a live circuit just as you can check negative to negative. You need both positive and negative to make a powered circuit. You can safely measure across either pole without damage.

I think I am going to have to convert this to a negative system. I should be able to disconnect the switched power to the button assembly and hook it to ground to make it work with the Unika. The backlight in the buttons should still work since they light with the key off.

Obviously, the resistance ladder and the backlight get power from separate sources. I will have to study the schematic to see if there is a downside.

Also... my car only has 4 buttons; 2 for volume and an up/down pair. Once I figire out how to make this work, I will change the steering wheel out for a Cadillac, Buick, Chevrolet or Pontiac wheel to gain additional buttons. This should work fine since the resistance values are handled on each button inside the button housing.

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] donaldta:
We're just going to have to agree to disagree. As this goes against the most fundamental don'ts that I learned in operating a multimeter.

It is not like the Unika cannot handle a positive resistance system, if you check this PDF and compare it to this ONE then you can see the difference between "with OEM radio" and "without OEM radio". It is just if the circuit being monitored is over 5V then it is most likely overloading the circuit. However, I do admit that the negative resistance is much safer circuity as uses up less energy.

FYI, the Unika only records up to 7 button (Mode D) using resistive setting. I tested it using a 10 position resistive ladder and the Unika breaks out of programming after the 7th learned key. As far as I understand the Unika can use UP TO 8 buttons, but only I only found that Jaguar is the only listed to support it. Which is a shame because the 8th function for the Unika is "Voice Command" for music.

I was thinking of returning the Unika and getting the Joycon adapter instead and not just because it is less expensive but also because of rigid limitations set by Paser/Parrot.
[Android General] moogvo:
That's okay if you are not comfortable working with or measuring electrical values on live circuits. Bear in mind, however, that in many applications, there is no option to disable and remove power before troubleshooting. there are other applications still that you MUST troubleshoot under live conditions. You aren't going to harm your meter (or yourself) as long as you know what you are doing. In order to make working power, you must have both legs of electricity. This is the reason that birds can sit all day long on high tension high voltage power lines and live to "tweet" about it. LOL! Pun intended... At the end of the day, you MUST use positive AND negative in order to have a circuit.

It is best to be cautious and disconnect power whenever possible. Please understand that I am not saying that you are "wrong" to do so. Similarly, I am saying that it is also not "wrong" to test live circuitry as it is necessary sometimes, and there are circumstances where you cannot probe a dead circuit. I am not agreeing to disagree. Just expanding a bit on the topic.

My main issue here is with the people at Parrot. A little documentation would have gone a LONG way instead of having to guess what each of these wires does. I have never seen such a poorly documented piece of equipment.

It is pretty sad when it becomes easier to reverse-engineer and modify the vehicle electrical system than it is to decipher what is what on the Unika unit.
[Android General] donaldta:
Fair enough.

I think that you haven't worked with many Steering Wheel Adapters (SWC) before. Most third-party SWC manufacturers don't actually identify their wires, as Paser does with the Unika. if you have ever used the instructions for an a different SWC, like the ones by Metra, PAC, Axxess, or whatever they just tell you the color of the wire and setting for the dial or dip switch. If your car is supported then they also show where their wire needs to connect, if it is not then you have little to no hope in getting it to work without trying to reverse engineer it.

The Unika at least has id tags for the Can-Bus Low, Can-Bus High, K-Line, and the two Grounds wires. This alone is far more documentation than what the others manufacturers provide. Sure, Aux1 through 7 and V1 & 2 are a little more ambiguous but that's because their function changes based on the position of #2 dip switch.

Anyways, I measured the Unika wires. It appears with the dip switch 1-1-0-0 setting "with OEM radio" that wires V1, V2, AUX1, and AUX2 supply 0.05v @ 0 amps (or my multimeter isn't sensitive enough to read it). I'm guessing in this setting, these wires are used by Unika to measure either AMPs or Voltage of a live, positive resistance circuit. I rigged up a 3.3v battery into my resistance ladder with the Unika and was only able to record one function. After I rebooted the Unika and it ran in normal mode, all 10 switches in my ladder acted like Volume Down. So, either my resistor differences are not far enough apart or the battery isn't supplying enough Volts or Amps in this mode for the Unika to recognize a difference in the ladder.

Whereas, setting the dip switch setting 1-0-0-0 will supply 4.99v on V1, AUX1, AUX2 wires. V1 is supplying 14.55 mA, Aux1 is supplying 2.71 mA, and Aux2 is 0.99 mA. This leads me to believe that in the "without OEM radio" setting that these wires measure resistance in a negative resistance system. And, that there are probably built-in resistors in the Aux1 and Aux2 leads. As for V2 in this mode it is rated at 0.05v @ 0a, so I think this is permanently tied to live circuit measurements regardless of the dip switch.

As for Aux 3 though 7 in either "with OEM radio" or "without OEM radio", none of them register any current or flow that my multimeter can detect.

I'll probably have to write to Pacer or Parrot to get more information like the electrical tolerances for these connections. Though, I am pretty sure that if it is like most others that it is around 0.05v to 5v and at least a 1/10th difference between values.
[Android General] moogvo:
Thanks for that. No, I have never connected these controllers in the past but figured that it couldn't be too difficult.

Rooting and sideloading was cake. Connecting the stereo was cake. This, on the other hand is the most frustrating thing I have ever tried to connect up. I have spent more time on this than I have spent on building broadcast studios that were on the air and broadcasting around the world live via satellite. Do far, it has completely consumed 3 complete days in the car with multimeter in hand, connecting and disconnecting... putting together abd taking apart.

I have to go back through every connection and every step of installation instructions again to try one final time to make this work before sending it back.

At the risk of looking like a complete noob, I am going to attempt this one final time.

I don't understand the difference between a switched car stereo accessory and a switched ignition wire. I am so flustered with this project at this point that I am probably overlooking something obvious and small.

What I believe at this point is that v1 nust go to the steering wheel control wire and because the resistance ladder is fed with 12 volts positive, it only makes sense for v2 to be connected to a switched ignition positive so that the Unika sees the resistance values rather than voltage fluctuations. I assume that the gray and black ground wire in that bundle can be left floating since it shows continuity to the chassis ground. Maybe it needs to be grounded anyway and it certainly won't hurt to ground it.

As for the rest of it, I had to walk away to avoid smashing the Unika with a hammer.

So... I am coming back to the well one final time to ask for a stripped down, newbie-friendly step by step guide in plain English without any installer's nomenclature (for example, "switched stereo accessory"... if that means the power antenna wire, then let me know.) Please tell me exactly what goes to where as if I am 4 years old.

I am so completely frustrated at this thing that I cannot seem to use my adult reasoning or technical background to get beyond my urge to run over this thing with a lawn mower.

Please... one more time, in state of the art stereo in technicolor with lenses by panaflex... A to Z... how does the powered end of the thing connect. Then, what is the procedure to bring it online and program it... connected to the stereo? Not connected to the stereo?

Thanks for helping!

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] moogvo:
So the Asteroid gets switched power from the Unika?

When the swc wires are completely disconnected, the Unika still flashes amber. The reset button does nothing. Apparently I have something connected wrong.

Thanks again for your help.

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] donaldta:
Yes. That is absolutely correct. This allows the Unika to manage the power state of the interconnecting device. In the earlier firmware versions for the Unika, the Parrot MKi/RKi/Asteroid head unit (HU) would not power up until the Unika's button programming has been completed. However, this confused many amature and professional installers because they would think that they had a faulty Unika unit when installing it correctly without completing the programming. So, to prevent unnecessary returns, they updated the firmware to allow the Parrot HU to power up during programming but now you have to switch the Unika off and on (via ignition key) after the button programming before it will start sending SWC signals to the Parrot head unit.

Pretty much now this feature is now only useful during the initial reboot of the Unika after it has received a firmware update from the Parrot HU. It allows the Unika an uninterrupted update process upon the first boot. Other than that when there's a major fault which causes the Unika to reboot or power off.

It sounds like the Unika doesn't actually have a protection circuit and you may have fried the circuits that normally measures resistance or voltage in the analog modes.

If you set the Unika to digital mode which is 0-0-0-0 dip switch setting and re-connect the Unika (again without any sensor leads), then the Unika should repeatedly flash the red LED. This indicates that it is trying to communicate with the CAN BUS or K-Line circuits to get the appropriate button relationship from the ECU. If you hold down the reset button then the LED will turn off when the reset is complete.

(Sidenote this is the opposite reaction for resetting the Unika in the Analog mode, since it that mode the LED is OFF during programming and holding down the reset button causes the RED LED to FLASH when the reset is complete)

If that part works then that means your Unika has a working reset button and the digital mode is okay. But, if you disconnect the power and go back into analog mode with ether 1-1-0-0 or 1-0-0-0 and the amber light is still flashing then most likely there's a problem with the Analog Circuitry which measures the Resistance/Voltage depending on Dip Switch #2. I guess something that you can check is to make sure that each of the unused wires are insulated with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out inappropriately. If you power off/on the Unika after you ensured that all the wires are properly isolated and it still flashes the amber LED then you probably have a Unika that will never work in Analog mode.
[Android General] devoidx:
Jeez I had to double check the URL i put in.. for a minute i thought instead of coming to asteroid's forum I came on an electrical engineering forum by mistake
[Android General] rdzviper:
Unika is a big problem for everyone:D

I don`t get how can i do such actions with tasker. Can enybody help me?

1. Sound level option on wake up. When i came home, listening music loud, i won`t get scare on next morning.

I need to set music level on wake up. But i`ve found only boot action and lock action (witch builtin screensaver)

2. I have two phones with bluetooth PAN(me & wife), so dual mode is disable. We have to use settings to pair our phones when we use one car in turn each time.

How can i make autoconnect phones?

3. Button/script to switch between two last apps will be very usefull.

Is there any app to make own gestures to make something like this:

-use long press on last apps button to switch beetwen them(with p.3)

-use long press on audio button to mute

-swipe up on side bar to volume up

-swipe down on side bar to volume down

-swipe right on up bar to next track

-swipe left on up bar to previous track

also i have bug.

i used standart widget(5 buttons control) to change screen light.

after that, i suppose, i`ve get a watch screensaver. I didn`t find enywhere how i can turn it off/change start time.

how can i turn it off?

thank you
[Android General] donaldta:
Okay, so I found a couple of voltage divider calculators and I decided to try and sketch out a preliminary circuit for you. If you do decide in trying this again then I would recommend: getting a second opinion from someone whom you undoubtedly trust in circuit design, using a breadboard so that you can test all the measurements with a multimeter before even attempting to connect it to the Unika, or get let a professional to do it for you.

It turns out that you can use a resistor with an impedance between 112Ω to 124Ω if your resistance measurements are accurate. I got the upper threshold by using the least resistant button (248Ω) with 15V which accounts for voltage spikes (and the increased voltage due to your alternator charging the battery) to the value of 5V. Then I figured out the lowest threshold by calculating the highest resistant button (2370Ω) with 12V to register at around .05V.

The only thing that I didn't do is implement a resettable protection circuit because that is beyond my personal capabilities. You might be able to get someone from an electronic forum like 12volt to help you if you wish to pursue a safer circuit. All I know is that it would typically involve using a 30mA Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) fuse and a 5.1V Zener Diode.

Anyways, here is the schematics.

​

Also just to be clear this would be used in the "with OEM radio" dip switch setting 1-1-0-0 since you want the Unika to measure voltage on a live wire instead of resistance on a grounded wire.

:p
[Android General] Apex i ITR:
Does anyone use google maps/navigation and it works WITHOUT their phone being tethered? For some reason the Smart won't use the on board GPS hardware until I connect my phone via bluetooth. Once that happens it will be very accurate. WIthout the bluetooth tethering it will keep searching for signal.

Is there a way to tell the google app to use the onboard GPS hardware. I searched through all the menus and I could be missing it but I didn't see anything.
[Android General] Bikegeek:
I don't think it's possible to use the Google maps without a data connection.......
[Android General] ansvlug:
You can download offline maps and use them without tethering.

You can also choose your destination while your car is connected to your home's WiFi network and then navigate without tethering.

You cannot choose a destination without tethering.
[Android General] kiswum:
You can only use pre-downloaded offline maps. Why don't you use the build in navigator? I know it is rubbish but I think it is better than gmaps for navigating ;)
[Android General] donaldta:
If you're using Tasker then create a profile that triggers on the System Event, "Device Shutdown", then create a Task Action to Audio Settings for Media Volume and set your preferred level.

I suspect using "Device Boot" isn't giving you the expected results because Parrot's software is returning the volume it last saved on shutdown after Tasker executes its boot profiles.

Categorically, your answers are all no. The Parrot Virtual Touch Keyboard is pretty much protected real estate. An app developer can trap the button press to key event executions, like in Asteroid Tweaker. But, a lot of your requests are beyond the scope of most app developers. In order to change how it reacts, we need someone whom can produce customized ROMs for the Asteroid Smart since it is the Android Framework software needs to be changed.

Volume Control can give something close to what you want but only on the bottom or right side. It creates a permanent yet customizable overlay so it doesn't lose focus from other programs. The area is a bit small but It will provide a constant on-screen touch zone to manage your volume.

I think this post might have some relevance.

Actually, there is no on-board GPS hardware in the Asteroid Smart. It comes with a USB GPS antenna which retrieves telemetry data from a few satellites to ascertain your location. In your case, I suspect you want to use Google Maps as an offline GPS Navigation software. Unfortunately, you cannot do this is because Google's turn by turn algorithms exists only on their servers. This means you'll need be connected to internet in order for that feature to work. In the offline mode, you can only use the Google Maps as digital map viewer but it should be able to pinpoint your location on the map from the GPS data. It just cannot give you turn by turn directions without internet access.

If you want to use an offline GPS navigation software, you'll have to get one where the developers supply both offline map information and the navigations algorithms. There are a lot of them out there; like TomTom, osmand, Sygic and even the iGO software that came with the Asteroid Smart.

That's not exactly true. You can use Google Maps to view up to 6 maps that you saved for offline use.
[Android General] rdzviper:
ok, works only on shutdown, i tried to make my event on every screen on, but events with screen didn`t work in tasker.

Volume Control is nice app from russian developer, thank you. I`d like to try VideoReg also with webcam.

yes, that`s was PerApp
[Android General] mackeystingray:
I removed the smart launcher and it seems to be slightly improved though still unreliable when it comes to pairing. If I had to put a number on it it's probably at a 70% success rate

Anyone able to get it to pair consistently?
[Android General] Apex i ITR:
Thanks guys.

As for why I'm using Google Navigation instead of the iGO its because there is a lot of stuff that doesn't come up on the iGO map app (including my neighbourhood) and its uber annoying since I'm still trying to find my way around the city (I just moved here a year ago).
[Android General] pducharme:
For me, I finally use Sygic as my GPS App with offline map. I prefer it to iGO, and I already bought it months ago when I planned to put a Nexus 7 in my Santa Fe, but finally end up installing the Parrot Smart :)
[Android General] Joe333x:
So freezing or uninstalling the stock launcher doesnt cause any force closes or issues? Im still hesitant to messing with system apps since we still dont have cwm recovery.
[Android General] mackeystingray:
smart launcher

it's a nice UI but i have no use for something like that as i have torque displayed almost all the time.
[Android General] Joe333x:
I use adw myself. I just wanted to make sure I could safely uninstall the stock launcher.
[Android General] donaldta:
I don't believe he is confirming that. I believe that he has stopped using Smart Launcher by GinLemon. The default launcher from the Asteroid Smart is actually called Parrot Home2.

Even though we don't have the Clockwork Mode Recovery, we do have Parrot's own recovery as long as the bootloader is operational.
[Android General] Jinster:
Anyone got any recommendations for good software or widgets for the Asteroid Smart?

I have Tomtom, MX Player Pro, Torque, AsteroidTweaker, Urbanspoon, Google Voice Search, Google Maps, Facebook, Perapp, SOFFT and TuneIn installed.

Getting a bit bored. Wondering what other good apps I am missing out on.
[Android General] moogvo:
Ok, so today, I dragged the stuff out of the trunk to have another look at it. I ended up hacking all of the ISO plugs and connectors and bullet connectors off and re-making the harness. After losing about 3 miles of wire and useless connectors, I plugged it into the car and got the single red flash, instead of the constant blinking yellow, so it went into programming mode.

Since I have not completely ironed out my options as far as the SWC wire goes, I am at a standstill on this for the evening. I will consult with a buddy in the morning to go over the options. I am seeing a bit of hope here...
[Android General] donaldta:
Excellent. I am glad that you did not end up frying the Unika.

I have tested out the Unika on a breadboard with a resistant ladder, voltage divider, and a fresh 3.3v battery. It works fine learning each function with the low 0v to 3v range. So, I will reiterate that you should not use it on a +12v system without using a voltage divider.
[Android General] casoft:
Id device

Hi, please need your help.

Im developed app to this radio, by need know the radio id, if im generate this id, and reinstall or update the firmware this id change, but know is possible get the id divice but dont know how get this id with Eclipse.

Can you help me please?

Thanks!
[Android General] moogvo:
Yeah. Me too. I am leaning towards chopping the voltage down since I really don't want to modify the car.

I can't thank you enough for your help in my times of brain lapse. I will be off to radio shack in the morning for some resisters. :)

Sent from my IMAX sized Galaxy Note II using Scottsroms Cleanrom ACE.
[Android General] donaldta:
I'm not not quite sure what you are asking for here or what you're trying to accomplish. But, have you tried this app; Device ID?