[Android General] donaldta:
Okay, first of all the Car's Ignition / Switched / Accessory is all the same wire. It is the wire in your car's radio harness that has +12V present while the Ignition Key is either in the Accessory or ON position. If the key is in the OFF or locked position there is no current present. This wire plugs into the Unika's Red & Yellow wire.

The Blue & Yellow wire on the Unika goes to the Asteroid Smart's Red wire. The Blue and Yellow wire on the Unika is a switched relay of the Red & Yellow wire. Meaning when the Unika is OFF or in a state of NOT READY then no current is present on that wire. After the Unika boots and is in a READY state then the +12V that originated from the Car's Ignition / Switched / Accessory wire is passed through the Unika and to the Asteroid Smart.

To illustrate an analogy, think of each wire as a different colored room which interconnects a row of rooms like below. There are two doors colored brown which prevents the path from the far left to reach the far right until certain conditions are met. Assuming the 12v Switched from your car's radio harness is yellow, my illustration starts with the yellow room on the left. Between that room and the Unika is a door switch. It doesn't unlock and open unless the key for your car is either on the ON or Accessory position. The next room is Blue and Yellow and that interconnects to the Asteroid. However, the door between the Red and Yellow room and the Blue and Yellow room does not open until the Unika has booted and is in a ready state. Once all doors are open, there's is a complete electrical path from the car's 12V switched line that passes through the Unika to get to the Asteroid Smart.

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Since your Unika & Asteroid Smart no longer powers on while your vehicle's key is in the off position AND the Asteroid displays "Good Bye" just before shutting down the LCD when you shut the key off of your vehicle, I believe this is no longer an issue for you.

I believe the first problem here is that you're ignoring my advice about not connecting any of the Unika's resistive probes (V1, V2, and Aux 1 through 7) to a live 12V circuit. From about all the other internet references this is a bad for almost all SWCs because that's more pressure than most of them can handle. I am guessing this is probably why you cannot get the Unika to do anything but flash amber LED while it is connected to your car's SWC wire. Hopefully, this is Unika's indication that the protective circuit has been tripped preventing you from shorting it out completely.

Have you tried hooking up the Unika to your car but not connecting it to the SWC line? What does the LED do? And does holding down the reset button cause it to flash red?

Back to what I was saying, in most cases, the cars which uses the +12V resistive circuit are either simply classified as unsupported by the SWC manufacturer OR the a handful of them recommend using implementing a voltage divider to allow the sensors to work in a tolerable range which is typically between 0.5VDC to 5 VDC. I'll site this tutorial for the Fusion Brain as an example of the latter. Please pay close attention to "Solution B" since that mimics your particular scenario.

If you need a video tutorial about a voltage divider circuit, even though it is just two resistors in a series in a single loop circuit, then take a look at the following video.

[YOUTUBE]4dL0vqJjoxY[/YOUTUBE]

Again, I am going requote the following line....