yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Well, Rome and building times spring to mind. :)

To me, the Torque issue is the most important one on short or even not-that-short notice. If that runs over an USB connected OBD interface, I'll be happy to wait whatever time it takes to implement other functions. I don't even need a Wifi or BT based solution and actually prefer the USB approach.

My currect WinCE unit doesn't have a Cap Screen either, and it has never bothered me once. As long as I can use the steering wheel control to do the more regular stuff (input select, radio tuning, volume control, preset choice) I'm all good.

I still maintain my original offer : if you'd be so kind helping me/us out with the OBD issue, I'll be happy to get you some kind of compensation for that. If/whenever you'd find time to tweak additional tricks from this unit is all considered "pure bonus".

.... I think I'll be ordering a unit tomorrow. ;)

---------- Post added at 12:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 AM ----------

By the way, you're probably right about the RDS enable thing.

I've been talking to HifiMax about this unit (I thought this was their unit, they sell it as the Hifimax 1802G) and they told me RDS used to be optional, but is standard in all radios now.

I also saw a YT of 30 minutes where the station name at least does get displayed during FM operation. : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxe7mmrYWSY ... it shows how to enter factory configuration mode and enable the RDS right at the begin of the video.

Maybe that helps a bit ?

---------- Post added at 01:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 AM ----------

... and another question.

Can you please consult that manual and tell me what kind of control lines the radio uses for steering wheel control ? I was under the impression that it uses the typical SW1/SW2 control lines which work on a resistive princple (action tied to measured resistive value), but when I look at the factory config screen, there's a clear Canbus entry ... which would suck, as my car doesn't support Canbus at all ...

---------- Post added at 01:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 AM ----------

... the guy on the video entered Factory Setting mode by going to BT call, entering #*98723 and "call" by the way.
[Android Head-Units] gavroche:
Good find!

Saves editing the FactoryModeValue.xml file directly...

I have tried and yes RDS enables using the factory mode.

The SW controls use SW1 and SW2 control lines as you say and yes it is based on a resistance reading (which is great for adding additional dashboard buttons if you so desire).

The canbus option enables the use on an additional canbus interface, I will look at the signals and see what's required to make that work, probably just a level shifter and canbus interface chip. I know it's not required in your case but the canbus menu allows you to select your specific vehicle protocol.
[Android Head-Units] nook'r:
Just for the records, The new update of Google Play Music 5.0.1 sound much better, loud and vibrant.
[Android Head-Units] karliforever:
Which unit are we talking about?

This is what I am getting cardvdgps-china*com/english/ProductView.asp?ID=534

And there is www*roadnav*com*cn/show_content.php?id=330 you were just talking about

Cheers karliforever
[Android Head-Units] ransoma22:
You managed to install Tasker in the radio : ?
[Android Head-Units] ahdoublexl:
Unfortunately I was not able to install Tasker... and I tried everything. I believe it will not install due to certain dependencies missing from the version of Android installed on these units.
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
Time delay ralay

To resolve this problem, I have ordered a adjustable time delay relay, up to 660 seconds, or 11 minutes. I'm going to put this on the (red)ACC-cable from the ignition switch.

I will still be getting the long wait for it to boot up after the vehicle has been parked for a while, but on those short stops, it will remain on. If I leave my car for not to be used anymore that day, I'll just push the volume-button to turn it off. Or just leave it on, it will then automaticly turn itself off after the time you have set on the relay. It will not drain your battery in that short time anyway.

You can find the relay I'm using by searching for Ebay itemnr: 320852799879 It's yours for 7.99$ + shipping(1.80$ to Norway).

By the way I have the TUN21A, installed it a couple of days ago, and I'm very satisfyed with it. I have installed the rooted firmware and tryed it with Torque over Bluetooth. I'm still waiting for my USB-hub, but I asume it will work fine with that to. I'm not satisfyed with the radio reception(fm) at this time. I think this is a problem with the antenna, and not the unit, as it was also bad on the stock radio. I have tethered it to my iPhone 5 via the personal hotspot capabillity, but I find this a bit annoing, as the hotspot goes to sleep after 5 minutes of no use. So have to go into settings on the phone every time I'm trying to connect(the HU will auto-connect if WiFi is available). The TUN21A comes whit a wireless 3g router dongle, so I think I'm going to use that instead.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
I did the same thing with my WinCE device even. Although it boots immideatly (time between power-on button and radio sound : 1 second. maybe less), I disliked the fact I couldn't get it to work like my factory-fitted radio worked : that one let me switch on the radio even when no key was in the ignition, and it automatically switched of after 15 minutes to avoid battery drain.

But the WinCE device was able to drain my battery in 3 days while "off" when I hooked it up to the 12V constant. So I used a Power Tamer from Copeland to let it "sleep" after a given, preprogrammed time. A bit of overkill maybe, as that thing lets you choose a shutdown interval between 5 seconds (or something) and 10 hours (or so), but it was the only one I found that was able to pull the current needed by the WinCE kit. Most of these low cost power tamer timers I found only do 500mA at 12V max, which is way too feable for typical 2din devices.

So be careful when ordering things like that, and be sure they can cope with the power needed.
[Android Head-Units] BurningDog:
Damn was stoked about this unit until I saw that. I assume if tasker doesn't work then something like Automagic probably wouldn't either.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Well, that fails too, You could try AutomateIT as alternative. If that fails too ..... it becomes difficult.
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
The relay I mention in this post is 10 amps, so you could allso use it on the battery+-cable if that suits you better, but then you wouldn't have the memory store on your radio app. So that saved channels would be erased each time you you boot up.
[Android Head-Units] G2k0:
Nice!!! I am so picking one up!!! BTW any idea if a relay might solve my reverse camera issue? in short it works fine until I turn engine on. I'm guessing I'm getting a voltage drop when the engine is on. should put a multimeter on. any suggestions?

as for other WiFi I use my iPhone 5 as a hot spot (using pdanet). just note if you go 3g you can't have both (at least that's what they told me over at pumpkin).
[Android Head-Units] ransoma22:
I tried installing Tasker old and new version, all failed to install.

I managed to get AutoMagic to install into the radio but it does not seem to work, trying to lower the volume of the radio if there are any call coming in..... :(

Will try AutomateIT. :good:
[Android Head-Units] stichlynch:
I use the 3g and WIFI at the same time. WIFI in the USB at the back and 3g at the front. It uses wifi from my house or my phone if available and diverts to 3g dongle if WIFI is not available. Seems to work perfectly on my testing so far.
[Android Head-Units] ransoma22:
Tried to install automateit but it fail.

Tried to root my device with the firmware found on this thread also fail.

Most probably is because my set is bought from different supplier and not from pumpkin.
[Android Head-Units] ransoma22:
Oki..success!!

Managed to root the device using the firmware here..even though they are from different supplier but thr interface is all the same...
[Android Head-Units] G2k0:
Good to know. :) Like I said I never tested it because when I asked that same question to Peter (over at pumkin) he advised me that I could not use both at the same time. Then again I dont see the need to add a 3G dongle on it. LTE/4G is blazing fast & havent had any issues using my phone as a hotspot.
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
No sound from 3rd party apps.

I have a little problem on my unit that is kind of annoying. I have allso seen others report the same problem.

If I switch to a 3rd party app from the stock radio app, like Spotify, Tuninradio etc., there is no sound output. But if I just open the music app, it starts to broadcast the sound. Seems like theres some kind of compatibillity problem. I'm pretty sure this didn't happen with the stock firmware, but there has allso been an update to Spotify, so not qite sure. Anyone alse experienced this problem, and found a solution?
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
Problem solved!

Problem solved! Just had to push the little ballpoint reset-button. I guess it was two different radio streaming apps I installed, that was causing it, allthough I had uninstalled them. :cool:
[Android Head-Units] iherbivore:
My digitizer is shot. I messed it up while trying to make the unit fit my car better. Does anyone know how I can get a new one? I have the resistive screen version.
[Android Head-Units] Jake Bullit:
Maybe try asking Peter at pumpkin.

Sent from my HTC HD2
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
I'm probably daft or suffering from a serious form of brain fart, but I don't see this working.

When I read the tech on the device, It will trigger the counter at the start of the 12V input. So when you put it on Constant 12V, It will start the timer cycle immdeatly, and disconnect after the preset time.

To do what you want, you have to have a device that starts a timer when the 12V is _dropped_. Becaus If you just use this device, you'll turn on that radio, turn on your car, and after x-time, while driving, your car radio simply will turn off ?

I can't see this unit doing that : it does the reverse of what you need if I understand it correctly.

Don't get me wrong : timer-delay switch-off units do exist. But I don't see this delay timer doing what you need. :confused:
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
I wondered the same thing, as the description on it is quite bad. But considering the capasitor on the printboard, I think the time starts when the power is switched off. Maybe..:) But the price wasn't moore than I was willing to take a chance on it. Will post an update once I've recieved it.
[Android Head-Units] Pop45398:
This would be very simple to do with a 555 timer IC in one-shot mode driving a relay, powered by Battery+ and using Ignition+ as the trigger. When I get a little time I'll work something up. All the parts could be sourced from Radio Shack.
[Android Head-Units] karliforever:
I think the real issue is not the timer. The unit (when turned off with the ignition) should save the last status and go into sleep mode. So a awakening is done within max 1-2 seconds. My tablet can do it - so why not this unit. IF that would consume to much power over, let's say a week or so, then a timer is useful to not draining the battery.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
If there's one thing I've learned after all these years of electronics and cars, it's NEVER to use a NE555 in car electronics.. Those things die just by looking at them. It's a marvelously divers little chip, but it copes very, very bad with the harsh conditions inside a car electronics circuit. The're sturdier alternatives, I suggest you look into them.

---------- Post added at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 AM ----------

Not only does the pretty dirty powerline of a typical car present problems (potential load dumps frying your NE555), a standard NE555 has a operational temperature range of something like 0 to +70° Celsius. Outside of that range the chip becomes fairly "funcky" in my own experience.:D

---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 AM ----------

A ICM7555IBA for example is a "Rambo 555". Equip that thing with a RC Filter on its powerlines and you're good.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Myself, I'm using the Copeland Powertamer and am very pleased with it.

Search it on the bay as "COPELAND POWER TAMER TIMED EQUIPMENT CUTOFF DEVICE--AVOIDS DEAD CAR BATTERIES". Thing costs 29 USD and shipping for you lucky US guys is free. For that money and considering the quality of that unit, I won't even consider dabbling with a NE555 based circuit.

I agree with Karliforlife that the real crux is the "cold boot" issue, and that a "get awake from sleep mode" would solve the long boot issue.

However, it may not be that simple, and you guys will be able to answer how big the problem is :

When you'd put in on 12V constant, a working sleep mode would enable fast boot. UNLESS the Unit goes below minimum stable voltage during ignition. And trust me, a lot of 2din units suffer from this : While cranking the engine, the 12V line can drop well below 10.5V EVEN with a good, fully charged battery for a couple of 10th's of a second. The result is a "force reboot" of the headunit.

Not all headunits are equally sensitive to this. I've had high cost Pioneer Units that went into "reboot" at each crank, because they have a operational limit of 10,8 or even above 11,0 in some cases. Other, cheap WinCE units (Erisin) will only reboot when "under 10.5" and consequently NEVER reboot during crank, unless your car battery is on the way out.

So owners : if you switch your unit on and have it on constant 12V line, does it reboot during crank ? (Question both to the Ouku as the 802 device owners). When using the "correct" connection (ignition 12V), the problem can be even worse ; a lot of cars (Europe here) will activly cut off all non-necessary powerusers while cranking the engine : this is done mechanically by the ignition switch system itself. People with such cars will never get their unit "reboot free" no matter what as long as they connect their headunit the "right and proper way", and they are more or less comdemned to either go "12V constant + automatic shutdown kit" or learn to live with it.

I even have a couple of circuits for the people suffering from the "reboot due to power drain at crank - even when connected straight to battery".
[Android Head-Units] karliforever:
So to circumvent this problem we would need to implement kind of a 12V uninterruptible power supply (UPS) that keeps the show going. Maybe something like this: www*powerstream*com/DC-UPS-1212*htm ( . replaced by *)
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
If your unit reboots at crank even when connected straight to the battery ? Basically, yes.

I've got a couple of "build yourself" schematics for this problem which came from several headunit-oriented Fora where this problem is pretty much common issue, but as ready-off-the-shelves solutions go, that's a pretty neat item.
[Android Head-Units] karliforever:
But even in without "reboot at crank" and in a normal situation. Let's say this is the scenario:

1. You turn on the ignition which boots the radio.

2. When cranking the engine (and loosing power to the radio) this little UPS keeps it booting.

3. You listen to the radio while driving then you turn off the ignition.

4. Radio keeps playing powered by car battery.

5. You pull out the key and radio goes into Android sleep mode powered by UPS until UPS runs out of battery then it shuts down radio.

Looking at my Android tablet I could not using the car for a week and still have an immediate on situation. Perfect!
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Correct, IF the headunit would permit a "real sleep", which may not be that Obvious.

My current WinCE headunit for example never "really goes off". It's clean that the unit stays active on fairly different levels even when switched off if it gets power straight from the battery. For example : it will still detect pairing of BT devices while turned off, and it will even sound the familar "beep" when at paired BT comes back in range .... while switched off. I guess that's why these Chinese Headunits all want to cut the power completly, knowing full well they are serious power consumers even when "switched off".

How bad this is with the Ouku ? You tell me. Measure the A's when "off" but still connected to 12V. Should give you an idea.

For people who find 75USD is a bit steep (and then you still have to buy a battery, cause that thing is really a UPS controller without battery), curtosy of the nice people at AVIC, they presented this solution included below.
[Android Head-Units] artash44:
Fail Closed

I have an idea. Imagine not altering your current wiring to power your radio. You need a relay that fails closed. When voltage to the stereo drops the relay open the other power circuit to supply voltage until your timer runs out.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
There's more than one way to skin a cat. (Please don't, I actually like cats ;) ) Whatever works for you is great : but the problem with the little circuit which was proposed intially by Saxerud is that the timer was triggered at voltage start, not voltage drop. But even then : The problem with mechanical switch relays is the response time of the contact, which may not be fast enough to avoid a power-drop induced reset.

This is avoided by the schematic I proposed earlier : no mechanical travel time of a contactor : the backup battery can't overload as it never will be overloaded above the typical running battery voltage (approx 12,7 to 13,2 V), and the components are even chosen for fast switching to (Shockly Diode, very fast switch, you guys call it a Shotkey Diode most of the time) keep the switch time to a bare minimum (a lot faster then any mechanical relay switch will allow you to do).

Anyhow, I just ordered the I802/Hifimax today straight at Hifimax, as they gave me the best price for the Unit inclusive a DVB-T Diversity Tuner with 2 active antenna's. The complete kit with DVB-T tuner was 361USD, which I find is a reasonable price considering the Unit. The headunit without DVB-T would have costed 295USD.
[Android Head-Units] thepurser:
Does anyone know how much power the unit will draw from a battery to enable it to avoid a reboot during ignition?

I am tempted to add an alternative power source but would also like to include a solar cell to trickle charge the battery. Hopefully this would enable much longer standby periods.

This line of thought has led me to look at ready made 12v external battery packs with integrated solar charge circuits.

Lacking much electrical knowledge though I would like to know just how much draw there would be for those few seconds at ignition and shutdown.

Could I get away with a 5v pack and a 12v step up circuit, (a cheaper option).

Just fuel for thought.

Have to say I love my Pure Android unit although radio reception is ropey for me and it was a nightmare trying to get my Iphone 5 connected. Thats sorted now after much internet searching and the update discussed here!! Thanks guys!!!
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
3G HSDPA Dongle APN settings

I now use the 3G HSDPA modem-dongle that comes with the TUN21A unit that I bought from Aliexpress. I had a lot of trouble getting it to connect to internet, but I finally managed to get the APN-settings right and it conected.

What I'm asking here, is if anybody else has used it? First af all: the signalstrength bars at the statusbar does not change/show the signal strength. It only shows tiny x, wich in the manual says just shows I that have a signal. The other thing I've noticed: when I'm driving into an area where there is no 3G signal, it drops out, and will not connect again until I have restarted the unit. Even though I have good 3G signal. Anyone have a good tip on this?

I have the rooted firmware and use it with a USB-hub, but it apears to act the same way without the hub.
[Android Head-Units] xandercom:
Purchased

Just to say that I've purchased this model:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Doubl...4?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item27d38a3d46

And was able to instruct the seller's manufacturers to swap out the resistive touch to a capacitive touch screen for an additional $50.

The seller also has a US eBay store with 1000's of feedback, all over 99% positive.

Total cost inc shipping was £297. Hoping not to get stung by customs charges, it's marked as a "gift/sample"..

6-8 days UPS shipping, so should arrive any day now.
[Android Head-Units] -krikke-:
I don't think this is a 100% Android unit. It's WinCe + Android.
[Android Head-Units] tin2001:
Hmmm. Another factory, you say? Hopefully they pull off a standby mode too...

Or at least a boot time under say 10 seconds.
[Android Head-Units] gerrylum:
I just got steering wheel controls working on my ouku last night using the ASWC-1 module. Factory controls on a 2010 Prius using the ASWC-1 module, Metra SWC wire harness for the prius, and setting the module to METRA OE. Works perfectly! Just need to connect the wires to the Key-1 and Key-2 wires coming out of the ouku.

Now my next step is to try installing one of the custom roms. Really waiting until someone can whip up a 4.0 version. ;)
[Android Head-Units] jblaylock:
There's a whole lot of pages here...don't kill me for not reading all of them, but I recently found a 4.0 version on ebay, has anyone purchased this?
[Android Head-Units] Pop45398:
You didn't link to the 4.0 unit you found but from one who has read all the pages of this thread, I believe all the 4.0 units mentioned so far are dual OS running both WinCE and Android, not pure Android.
[Android Head-Units] jblaylock:
as of now, I can't post the link, but I've read over the past 15-20 pages and did see the reference to the 4.0 version. After reading, this unit may not be for me. I want something to install and it just work...sounds like there is too many problems and too much 'rigging' to do .

---------- Post added at 01:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:04 PM ----------

Maybe I can now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140926924755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
[Android Head-Units] -krikke-:
Hi,

I installed my unit (Ekoore Elija S2) that I received a couple of days ago and everything seems to work fine but there are 2 things I ask myself:

Question 1:

When I put car key in stand 1 the units starts. (engine still off)

When I put car key in stand 2 (so dashboard comes on and car checks itself) the unit also comes on but slightly dims the screen...

When I put car key in stand 3 and the car starts, the brightness level is as in stand 2. (so slightly less bright then in stand 1)

Is this normal/common?

So when engine is shut down and screen is on, it is brighter then when the engine is turning.

I didn't notice this yesterday as it is only a slight difference in brightness.

Question 2:

I can't view video files or video DVD (white message on black screen says no video possible while driving) even when ignition is on (radio plays) and the engine is still off... Is this normal? I understand you can't watch dvd while driving, but it doesn't work even when engine is off... I always get the black screen with warning and in the background I hear the dvd sound playing...

Anyone has some advice?

PS: for the rest I am very pleased with this Android unit. Lightening fast boot (+-10 seconds or less), and supports Torque by ODB2 usb cable!
[Android Head-Units] Saxerud:
Timer delay relay updated.

I recieved my timer dely relay yesterday, and it worked like mentioned, timer starts when power is triggered. But I found a little workaround to get it to work the way I planned. I just used a regular 87a relay, triggered by the illimination cable. I then hooked the trigger cable of timer delay relay to the 87a terminal of the other relay, and the load cable hooked onto the acc wire. This way, the unit will stay on for about 11 minutes(adjustable) after I turn my headlight of. Since it prohibited to use headlights in daytime in Norway anyway, this works great for me.