yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] projection:
Does anyone have any info on these?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-DI...ayer-with-GPS-WIFI-3G-Internet/622558060.html

Seems like it has a bigger capacitive screen, but the MCU is clocked at 833mhz.
[Android Head-Units] Orisai:
Looks like a WinCE+Android hybrid. That, or a terribly slow pure Android 4 headunit with such specs.
[Android Head-Units] daveaus:
I have asked this a couple of times but has anyone managed to get replace the stock music app with another one and still get it to use steering wheel controls?

Or how hard would it be to modify the stock app to give a random all folders option?
[Android Head-Units] principino1984:
a new unit coming soon from RR:

[YOUTUBE]HHffZq1WPwU[/YOUTUBE]

:D
[Android Head-Units] royalhawk2002:
I have extracted all the files from the system.img of the I802 SD recovery.zip. If someone has Android programming experience, I think is possible to change/substitute any App and setting in this unit.
[Android Head-Units] mihaiolimpiu:
Don't we already have access to these files, we always did as long as your unit is rooted... I'm happy with how my unit works, (I don't have it connected to a 3G dongle) so I won't go that road at least for now :).

Regarding the Errors that some people suspected were related to WIFI, those neverending errors about google service framework, and Archemind... bla bla... Those errors appear ONLY if you don't let the unit BOOT completely. Let me explain:

You put the key in, you turn it, the unit is starting the booting process, but immediately you take the key out, thus taking the power away! At next boot, the errors ALWAYS appear!

Some people never experienced it because probably they have wired the unit wrong, to be always on, you can check like this: If your unit starts even if the key is not inserted, then your electrician did a poor job, but in the process saved you from getting these horrible errors!

In a car it is imperative to disconnect everything when key is not inserted, or you'll end up with a dead battery!

The new firmware, the one from 5 May or whatever has fixed this issue, while I was remounting my unit, my battery died, and the unit and car went hiwire! Interestingly tough, after I jump started the car, I received the fallowing error:

Missing global.conf, but it went away at the fallowing boot. Probably a new, revised startup script fixed that error!
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Hmmm. Allow me to disagree on this, at least if you're meaning this in a generalized fashion as "...all radio's have this issue".

Most stock Radio's I know of are perfectly capable of powering without key. Most of those will switch off after a pre-determined time frame (With Renault cars for example, that will happen after 15 minutes). After that time, you can swith the radio back on manually if you choose so, and it will again work for 15 minutes.

On ANY Ford I've owned, I _always_ could power up the stock radio, regardless of key. And I could leave those cars unattended for weeks without draining the battery.

Why ? Because other than most of these Chinese head units, their powerdrain in "sleep" is negligable, and they're designed to draw next-to-nothing. These China Head units however are pretty much "power guzzlers", drawing 1.5 A in normal use, 2A if you're doing something more "needing". If the manfacturer would build a better unit, having the unit on 12V constant would not be a problem. I've not measured how much a S150 draws in "off", but for example an Erisin or a Koason WinCE indeed draws 0.5A (!!) in "off". My stock Renault unit drew 0.5A when running, and 0.01 in Off.

So yes, you're correct if you're speaking about most aftermarket units. But stock radios ? Not really.

I've hooked up my S150 over a Powertamer to allow it to stay powered for a predetermined time even after removing the key. That way, I can leave my car with the kids inside and let them use the radio even though I removed the key, and there's absolutly no risk of the unit "rebooting" when turning the key to crank the engine. So it's "always powered" in a way, and still I've had this issue too. I've never had it when Wifi wasn't connected and no communication was running.

That being said : the idea of corruption due to powerloss is absolutly valid and will undoubtably be responsible for a lot of these cases, but it doesn't explain why full powered units suffer from the same issue now and then.

By the way : congrats on reviving your unit ! Fabulous !
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Addition :concerning S150 powerdrain.

I knew I had noted a couple of power figures on the S150 when I was experimenting with it's hardware.

In Idle, It draws 0,07 A@12V. That's approx 0,8Watt. That's approx 5x lower than the light in an average glove compartment box (W5W typical).

Meaning any car with a reasonable battery should be able to power the S150 in Idle mode for ..... quite a long time before the battery drops below critical values.
[Android Head-Units] mihaiolimpiu:
Sorry, but you misunderstood me!

All CAR STEREO manufacturers have a way of sensing when ACC (Accesories) line is powered, and most (if not all) car radios that are powered without car key in the ignition are shutting down after a predetermined period of time.

The S150 (and correct way of wiring a radio) is ALWAYS POWERED GND and +12V, but it needs the ACC line to sense when motor is not running so it disconnects or begins shutdown procedure. So you need GND, +12V and ACC line.

Most people are getting the ACC line dirrectly from the +12V line and thus circumventing this mechanism, the power drain is not from the standby time, it's the same on both ways of connecting a stereo, but when you forget the radion ON! (on mute for example)

I have seen setups when +12V was taken from the ACC line so the radio wouldn't work at all without key present (VERY BAD SETUP)!

P.S.: My unit never reboots when I start the engine... The car is not shutting down the ACC line when starting the engine, only high/short beam. (In the case you are experiencing this problem ONLY way to connect the radio IS TO CONNECT ACC line from 12V+ line or find a proper, unprotected ACC line, directly from the ignition - key or interior/dashboard lights if it works when starting the engine).

P.S.2.: I've started this whole debate, because it took me ages to figure out what Night illumination did on the 150, because I wired the ILL to the correct input, but I haven't tested the line, and in the end, I found out that in my car (KIA CEED BEST variant) ILL line was not powered at all, but on all other levels of equipment of the CEED, the line was working properly. I had to get my ILL line directly from the lights block. At first I thought it was a software issue or a hardware issue, because Night Illumination never worked and the front leds never changed color, but stayed white all the time.

As a conclusion, never trust an electrician, if it works it should WORK 100% , not 99%.

P.S.3.: What's the correct input for the ODOMETER? So the stereo increases it's volume with speed? I couldn't figure it out (In the settings menu there is a setting use speed volume control)!
[Android Head-Units] adit9989:
Did you try with WiFi off, same procedure ? I had once this problem, exactly as you describe. Got the car in garage stopped, but see that I am to close to the door so restart the car move and stop. Next time I've got the errors. I also had the WiFi on (which works in garage). Do not want to try again to reproduce, because need a factory reset and reinstall all my apps after. It's true, since then I always let it boot and keep WiFi off when don't needed so it's hard to say what exactly caused the problem.
[Android Head-Units] kaween:
1) I can't say I completly understand what you're trying to say, but that's probably caused by my limited grasp of English. Don't you mind though, as long as it works for you it's okay.

What I'm trying to say is this : the're quite a lot aftermarket radio's out there which will drain your battery, even when switched "off" because -they don't really switch off-. My previous Koason for example would be "off", but it STILL would try to connect to a BT Phone even when switched off ! (Radio off, and yet a BT in range meant you could hear the "BEEEEP" as it autoconnected to the BT part). If you've a radio like that, it will drain you battery even when switched off. Bad design, no matter how you look at it. And you'd be surprised how many of this kind of bad designs exist out there : I've known Sony car Stereo's pulling half an Amp from the battery even in "off" position, so it's not just the Chinese units guilty of stuff like that.

2) True. A 99% system will be worth 0% when you most need it. :) Addition : never trust a _bad_ electrician. A good one would have solved it. :)

3) I've given up on that. On the S150, I can't decern a pulse-input for the Odo-signal. I've presumed it can be controlled by Canbus, but my car doesn't have Canbus. On the OBDII, there -is- an Odo-signal (of course !), but I can't connect it to anything on the S150.
[Android Head-Units] mihaiolimpiu:
You don't need WiFi off, the new firmware doesn't exhibit the error. I know I write long posts, read them and you'll see why the error happens. ( Incomplete boot procedure).
[Android Head-Units] livingrock21:
I'm definitely interested in this unit, and will be buying an android head unit within the next couple weeks. I'm extra interested in the HU I linked to because of the specs, and the fact that it's running android 4.1 .

So, with that being said, obviously if I buy the OUKU unit I have all the support here which is a big plus. BUT, my main question is will I be able to root the linked 4.1 unit?? That's basically what its going to come down to. With a rooted unit, most anything is possible if your willing to do the legwork(research). So I'm not real concerned with my second or third question. Being able to root the head unit will be my primary concern, and if the files in this thread wouldn't work. Could someone point me in the right direction as to how I would root that HU?

Thanks again in advance..!
[Android Head-Units] KID52:
I have already received this unit, and can try to answer any questions people have.

I would like to root the unit, but honestly I am not really sure where to begin. If anyone can offer some advice on what I can try I would appreciate it.

All I have tried so far is the Framaroot apk which just said the device is not compatible.
[Android Head-Units] chris.r.r:
surivil all

A review video would be great. The most interesting points for me are boot time, general performance, fm reception, can bus visualization.

Thanks in advance ;)
[Android Head-Units] royalhawk2002:
Some informations about the i802. I noticed that could be a bug in the Radio settings. If I set the "AF" function ON, every time I will switch OFF and On the unit, the setting is lost.

I tested several navigation SW:

- Sygic (with license) last version 13.x.x: It run but evry time voice directions are issued, then the music source will be stopped. I will try the version 11.2.6 with latest maps and license soon and let you know if it works.

- TomTom 1.3: It runs but , as Sygic, stops the music application (Radio, MP3 Player, etc.)

- IGO Primo version 9.6.7.318746: It works. No music stop, but the voice directions are very low and you have to find a good compromise with navigate volume and other applications volume.

- Route 66 (last version): It works. No music stop. The voice directions are louder than IGO Primo.

Tested "Magic Link" with my Samsung Galaxy Grand Duos, both USB and WIFI, and it work like a bomb! :good:

No issues, until now, about google service framework, and Archemind... bla bla...errors!

I will add new experiences with unit as soon I will discover.

Could be useful to open a thread on this unit with resuming of the experiences everyone has. It will be a list of working SW, Tips&Tricks, Bugs, etc.
[Android Head-Units] adit9989:
When you say "new firmware" which one it is ? Is the one posted in this thread called "i810-s150_firmware.zip" ? Is this the same with "hm-I802_system upgrade files-big risk.rar" posted later ? I was left with impression that you bricked your unit installing one of those? Or it was another problem ? Does this firmware work for both Resistive (mine) and Capacitive screen units ? I don't want to take the risk upgrading anything if I'm not sure it works. Thanks.

---------- Post added at 08:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 AM ----------

Would be nice to have a separate thread for S150 but it's to late I think to start now. If the moderator has time he could go through all the posts and move them but it's not easy as many time you are not sure what unit people speak about. Best would be to have a separate section on XDA something dedicated to Android auto units, like this one I think we will see more and more of them.

For navigation, just one more thing, somebody already tried and confirmed, Navigon works also properly (sound and all) on S150, can add it on your list.

How about TTS engines ? Most Navi software will use the system one. Which one did you try ? For me SVOX (US English) licensed works. On phone I'm using also Ivona (Kendra) and CereProc (Adam) (licensed). I was not able to install them. The market shows incompatible device so you can not install the app from there. Side loading Ivona works for the moment but the voice disappears either after next reboot or after some days. I suppose that even if it's free as beta it has some license check. MarketHelper did not work properly when I tried before may do one more try when have time.
[Android Head-Units] royalhawk2002:
I don't have installed any external TTS Engine, so, I suppose, I have used the system one. :rolleyes:
[Android Head-Units] adit9989:
Default is Pico TTS I think. The worst. The best are in my opinion (if you can find a voice for your language): Ivona (has Italian), CereProc, SVOX, in this order. I think Sygic uses Loqendo but this can not be installed system wide and it's not available on Play, they use some internal engine. They used to be good on WinCE, no idea how it sounds on Android. On Android 4.3 Google replaced Pico with a better engine but still quite behind the first 3 ones. Everything else out there is a joke. iGO uses the default system engine (whatever is set as default) if you use a proper TTS voice in settings. Not familiar with the other Navi software, but except Sygic I think they use also the system TTS.
[Android Head-Units] adit9989:
If Framaroot does not work you are out of luck. If you would have a "device" USB port and access to adb you could try some other tools, but like other units probably you don't have this. The only chance is to get from seller instructions, a tool to root or a rooted ROM. Unfortunately newer the Android version, less unfixed exploits are left (for Framaroot or other tools).

PS did you try the latest version of Framaroot ? There is a thread about.
[Android Head-Units] shunsai:
My advice: Try to get the system.img, et al from the manufacturer, mount it in Linux, drop the su binary in it, and if you're feeling brave, try to flash your modified firmware to your headunit. Since we can't really make a nandroid backup, it's a good idea to get the firmware files direct from the manufacturer of your unit.

PS - Framaroot didn't work for me either, yet I managed to get rooted (thanks to tin2001).
[Android Head-Units] livingrock21:
I talked to the seller of the unit, and he said it's rootable. He didn't explain how, so I would contact him about it. Did you get the digital tv converter? I'm curious how well that works, and would like to see a video of it. That'd be a nice feature when you can't be home when there's a game on, ie football, baseball, hockey, ect.. Does the extra core, and ram seem to make a difference then the videos of the previous android units? Also, if you could include in the video, if you have one hooked up, video of the reverse camera. What kind of vehicle did you put it in?
[Android Head-Units] KID52:
I am planning to do a video review when I have some time, I am still messing around with it so I can put all of my findings into the video.

As a quick answer to your questions, boot time is okay, around 30 seconds, general performance is fluid and responsive - the hardware improvements definitely show. I do seem to be having numerous random freezes though - the music will continue to play, but the screen and buttons do nothing, I have to remove power from the unit to restart it - in your car this means removing the key...

Your other two questions I cannot answer, I have not attached the FM antenna yet, and as my car does not have an external antenna I don't think reception is that good anyway, to be honest, I have never even tried the radio on my stock headunit. At the moment the unit is just sat on my desk, when I install it in my car I will try the radio. Also, the car does not have CANBUS so I cannot try that, but the unit does have two wires that are marked CANBUS so I assume it will work. There is no app on the unit for CANBUS however.

I thought as much, the device seems pretty locked up, even the USB Debugging is password protected. As far as I know I used the latest version from the thread.

I have asked the seller for the system image, hopefully I will hear back soon. I look forward to someone helping to find a way to root the device and unleash its full potential.

Yes, he told me that too, but also did not provide instructions.

I have not got the digital tuner, at first he said it could be built-in, but then later said it would have to be an external unit, maybe because I purchased it so early. I was considering purchasing it, but decided the extra cost was not worth it for me, especially having to use an external tuner that I can purchase at any time. Ideally as I am in the UK I would want a DVB-T2 tuner anyway.

The improved hardware definitely seems to benefit the unit, I am used to my HTC One X, and going from that to this unit you cannot tell any difference in most applications - I have not tried intensive games or anything yet, I think the most resource hungry program I have tried is iGO - which on another note, the included iGO app does not work with voice. It took me quite some time to track down a working version.

I did get a reversing camera with the unit, but I think the picture quality is not great, I already ordered another camera that is supposed to be a better chip and higher resolution, but we will see when it arrives.
[Android Head-Units] kirill.lrnv:
What is your firmware #? If it does not match with this one (318a2e70-44bf-11e1-b1cf-000c29ba27c0), than it's not good idea to use our firmware.

---------- Post added at 11:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 PM ----------

Here is the hub that Russian developer uses with this unit. Pretty expensive, hey! I paid $20.00 for mine, but can't find it anywhere to post the link :(
[Android Head-Units] thasatelliteguy:
How did you flash??

How are you flashing these?? I have a flip face BOSS that I've seen with several different names/OSs and would be willing to experiment, but cannot find ANY information....

---------- Post added at 11:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 PM ----------

They don't want us to have root access for $$$$. Have you looked on eBay for the same $350 radio with generic SW? They are about $150! They dont want us to figure out how to flash them ourselves!
[Android Head-Units] azcreative:
I've been looking at the models on ebay too and it seems like there are WinCE and Android variants of all of the same models (with the WinCE variants being significantly cheaper). Does anybody really know if, aside from the OS, there are any differences between these units? Are the processors and or chipsets any different? Could you theoretically flash the android rom/firmware onto the WinCE versions?
[Android Head-Units] kirill.lrnv:
You are saying, that something with this specs:

"General:

-ISO 2 DIN Size

-Processor: ARM11

-Memory: 128 MB

-Operating system: WinCE6.0"

Is good enough to run Android?
[Android Head-Units] Hal9k_:
No, the russians will not buy this cheap device so expensive ! :laugh:

My hub costs $ 2.18 on aliexpress.

aliexpress.com/item/10Pcs-lot-Mini-High-Speed-4-Port-USB-2-0-HUB-for-Laptop-PC-Free-AIR/520198885.html
[Android Head-Units] SWEUP:
Has anyone tried if it works to use another launcher like Nova? (if the 4 buttons can be hidden this way)
[Android Head-Units] Jake Bullit:
Just a quick update as I received my Linux compatable bluetooth dongle today.

I don`t have the four port hub yet,but swapped it with the wifi dongle to test.

Pleased to report it works.

Heres a video showing an early test of Torque using the bluetooth OBD2 device.:)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uD9LyOeMlRQ

This is the BT dongle I bought;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B8UYXCW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
[Android Head-Units] kirill.lrnv:
Good news.

Nova launcher is for Android 4.0 and up.
[Android Head-Units] lincolndroid:
Taking the advice...sending it back for exchange...haha I have tried absolutely everything to get it to work... no such luck

Whats the best way to clear all the data and memory from the device???

I have to unroot it as well to send it back... assuming i can just reflash the MCU and System with the original files(unrooted) i downloaded..
[Android Head-Units] lineyho:
Jake

I looked at your Youtube video. You HU is a different style than I have. Although I have rooted mine with the firmware everyone is using on this thread. This is the link to what I bought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-6-2...r_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item2324e6c702

As I previously state I used two new bluetooth dongles to try and connect with my OBD2. The bluetooth sofware on theHead Unit would not allow me to connect, even though is showed up on the screen. You said to try a linux compatable dongle, and it looks like you got yours working.

Did you use the Head Unit bluetooth program to connect ? Or, did you use another bluetooth program like Quick Connect Lite ? I have tried Quick connect and it just freezes like I mentioned in my prevous thread.
[Android Head-Units] Jake Bullit:
I used quick Bluetooth lite to pair with OBD2(code 1234),then let torque do the rest.

Maybe try clearing data in Bluetooth lite, and try to re pair.
[Android Head-Units] dthomas1234:
I rerooted mine and tried again.. It would pair but not transfer audio, but after powering it down and back up again it worked fine ever since. So it seemed for some reason just on the initial pairing it wouldn't work, but after power cycling the radio it was fine.
[Android Head-Units] lineyho:
Jake

This may sound like a stupid question, but am I supposed to load drivers for my bluetooth dongles into the android root directory from the CD that comes with them ? I never thought about it until now, but I would have to do it for a windows computer. How does Android OS know what to do with ever bluetooth dongle. I tried a few more bluetooth programs off google play, and they all sort of froze. One came back indicating it couldn't start the FTP server. Thats why I was thinking that the OS needs more information about the dongle. I ordered a Linux dongle which will be my last attempt to get the OBD2 connected.
[Android Head-Units] Jake Bullit:
You shouldn`t need any drivers,but you do need a LINUX COMPATABLE DONGLE.

I just plugged mine in to the REAR USB,opened up bluetooth lite ,searched for device,selected OBD2,paired with code(1234 on mine),then let Torque do the rest.

How did you root yours?What OBD2 device do you have?Do you see the BT icon top left?
[Android Head-Units] Jake Bullit:
My four port adapter just arrived,but it doesn`t seem to have enough power for wifi and BT dongles together.They`ll show up in the top bar,but as soon as I fire up Torque I loose the BT dongle.

Back to running it direct off the rear USB for now.
[Android Head-Units] lineyho:
I'm rooted like everyone else using the files off the Russian site. The dongles I used do not show the bluetooth icon at the top. The OBD2 divice I have is a generic on off amazon that had almost 5 stars by a whole lot of people. It works in my car with my phone no problem. I have ordered a Linux dongle for a last resort.