[Android Head-Units] kaween:
Hi ! Acutally, most of us are polite enough to indicate if we're _not_ talkinlg about the Ouku and its cousins, don't we ? :)

Let me try and get you a couple of answers.

1) Yeah. In my experience, when you get yourself a dash-conversion kit (from 1din to 2din), the specs will Always say "180x100", but that's the size of the radio-body itself. The plastic front of such kits is a lot smaller most of the times. My own 180x100 rebuild can only cope with a radio-front of max 172x98 or something for example, so careful rework has to be done to make it all fit in many cases.

As for the mounting problem, I'd buy two thin aluminium sheets of approx 90x90mm : make a 90 degree "rim" on it of aprox 5mm so a thin border covers some FRONT part of plastic of your dashboard - the rest of the plate goes "alongside" the radio, and you can fixate those two plates on either side of the dashboard opening using two self-pullingtwo-thread screws. Then slide your radio unit back in, put it in the depth/angle you desire and fixate the two metal pieces to the side of your radio with adhesive tape. Unscrew the "dash screws" again, and the radio comes out with the two pieces of alu on either side. Now drill the holes you need to fixate the two plates to the sides of the radio, screw the plates to it and put the radio back into the 2din space, again fixating it with the screws you had previously used to lock those two plates to your dashboard. Put the plastic Facia/Bezel of it all and voila, radio is mouted, won't go anywhere, and you don't see any ugly screw sticking out from anywhere.

2) Winamp .... I'm afraid not. Most (all) players I've tested so far on android aren't capable of selecting the CD part as "folder" or media storage space. I did quick test with it on my I802, and it didn't let me select the CD/DVD device, only folders (be it on USB/Integraged memory/SD card/Even BT .... but not the CD/DVD drive)

3) Hmmm. I've build several headunits in different cars of the last couple of years, and I've never had that issue. If the guys that do the installation took their work seriously, neither should have you. It's really quite simple : you either have an illu-line on the A-part of your Iso connector (Pin A6 on an Iso Block, on European cars that's an orange coloured wire most of the time) so that when you put on your headlights, the buttons come alive too. Don't want that and want the buttons to be on all the time ? Hook the ilu line up to the switched power line (A7 most of the time, red wire in lots of case, sometimes yellow) so the buttons become lit when you switch on iginition.

If you have payed people good money and you ended up with an "insane bill" to fix what they clearly botched up in some way, I can only imagine the people you trusted didn't know what they were doing in the first place.

4) Yes, with Ouku&Co there's a rooted and prepared rom (Hal9K's) that you'll need. Of course you need Torque, and depending on the type of ELM327 connection you'll want to be making, you'll need a Linux compatible USB BT stick and a usb hub to connect it all together. Tips enough in the first 30-or-so pages of this thread.

5) Hal9K's. And that's it. Be careful when it comes to the version : it's my understanding there are capacitive and resistive versions of it, be sure to pick the correct rom. Be pleased, on my I802 there's no rooted rom download, but luckely the I802 can be rooted with Framaroot.

6) ??? can't tell.