[Motorola Droid RAZR] TStarGermany:
I've just successfully converted my GSM Razr to a Maxx today and like to share some of the experience...

As basic orientation, the instructional video from CRS is okay, together with the images on Ifixit.com they provide good help, although they fall a bit short at some points.

The following only reflects my own opinion/experience... if you're not as clumsy or cautious as I am - good for you.

Stuff you need to get:

Get the black maxx PCB frame. And get a replacement camera bezel.

T3, T4 and T5 Torx screwdriver. Yes, T4 too, wait till you read why.

For opening up the phone and handling parts, you need these as well:

I needed each one of them and besides the Torx, nothing else was required.

Get a bunch of these for cheap on Ebay. Color or vendor don't matter, they're all made of the same stuff.

The tools you don't need:

iSesamo... don't order it. And don't use it if you get it sent to you nonetheless (like in my case). It's made of metal.

Not only can it easily get you some nasty dents/scratches at the side of the housing, it can, when being handled unfortunately, destroy the electronics on your phone's motherboard... you don't want that.

The spudger.. I don't know, I didn't need it at any point

Here are some additions to the CRS & Ifixit documentations:

I) In CRS' video and on the Ifixit website, you will read that T3 + T5 screwdrivers are required. Unfortunately, they both either made a mistake, or the production process has been altered, because T4 is needed as well; actually, all but 3 (of all those described as T3) were infact T4 torx screws. Imagine my heartbeat when I tried to use a T3 on the screws and it didn't fit :)

II) I did (negligently) break the camera bezel while removing it. If you don't use a heatgun/dryer to losen the adhesive beneath it, you will almost certainly break it. And that's ok, because a replacement bezel costs 6$, while damaging stuff like the rear camera with too much heat costs almost tenfold.

I honestly can't tell if it is really dangerous to heat up stuff like the camera or not, I just didn't want to risk it.

III) Opening the phone and removing parts is a pain in the ***. You're brest served using...

- The thick long prying tool and the thick plectrum for opening the housing.

- The thick long prying tool to remove the the PCB frame.

- The slim long prying tool for removing the speaker from the old housing without damage (don't use a screwdriver or so)

- The slim long prying tool for removing/replacing the battery pole rubber cover and the mic rubber grommet.

- The slim plectrum to slide it under the battery and losen it before even thinking about pulling the "battery removal" grip.

- The slim plectrum or the slim prying tool for losening sensitive parts of the housing (e.g. sim door)

Generally, opening/removing parts is a hassle but if you take your time and exercise medium caution, you won't damage anything of value.

IV) CRS delivers (or at least did in my case) only 1 piece of double sided adhesive to stick the back side of the new battery, while the original battery has adhesive on BOTH sides.

V) Test run your device after you inserted the new battery (and secured its screws). If everything runs ok, then proceed to snap on the black housing frame and the back cover.

VI) Make sure the housing frame and back cover snap on tightly (=correctly) at every single spot, ESPECIALLY at the SIM card door.

I recommend starting to snap on the back cover exactly at that spot, making sure that the thin lower frame part of the SIM card door snaps on tightly. If you mess up that spot, you might be unable to correct it without re-removing the entire back door.

That should be sufficient for now...

Oh BTW:

The back door cover delivered by CRS has a fat "4G Verizon" writing on it. Live with it -.-