[Galaxy Tab 10.1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] c0reyl:
I need to get an AT&T tablet with LTE that has USB audio capability. I was stuck on the idea of getting it from my phone for the longest time, but decided it was better to just have a permanent cheap permanently charging tablet in my car basically fabricated into my dash itself to physically be my head unit. I want to have the tablet hooked up to an extremely good USB DAC capable of 2.1 output, which can either be split for the 4 channel and still keep good voltages without degrading quality, or has a 4 channel option itself. I want lossless audio from my head unit, and the only way to do it is either hooking up a custom computer, or a tablet that supports USB audio. I'd much rather have the tablet, and I plan on hooking up a bluetooth OBDII reader to my car so the tablet can diagnose things and read engine stats, 0-60 times and quarter mile times as well.

I'm almost finished my general setup in my sound system, and it's not super high end, but it's definitely good enough to benefit from lossless audio. I have an Alpine 100watt RMS per channel amp with under 1% THD hooked up to some Alpine 6x9 with silk dome tweeters in the back, and in my door panels, I put in some 5.25" Kevlar drivers I took out of my professional studio monitors since one of them broke, and I'm hooking up a good crossover from a 6.5" Alpine set that came with swivel mount silk dome tweeters that I'm working on mounting at ear level. The subs are some 4 ohm 12" Alpine type E kevlar reinforced pulp cone woofers that are 200 watt RMS and somewhere around 750watt peak each in a really nice vented box good enough to have one woofer act as a passive radiator when the other isn't even connected, in a VENTED enclosure. They are hooked up to a .5 Farad capacitor and a 400 watt RMS monoblock class D Alpine amp with well under 1% THD. The subs are surprisingly clear for some budget subs, and can vibrate my skull with surprisingly little distortion from a car subwoofer, in a big ass 18 ft long Buick Riviera. I am not claiming to have a super high end system by any means, but I'm saying it's very well balanced and sounds really clear for the $350ish I spent on my sound system which would cost upwards of $1500 from a professional audio shop to install plus components.

Those little 5.25" Kevlar woofers have more bass and hit harder than the nice 70watt RMS Alpine 6x9"s in the back. Without the sub on, I can definitely feel the bass, and it doesn't even need a subwoofer to hear all the music. The system is flat to about 40Hz without the sub, and about 25Hz with the subs. They have 90db efficiency, work well with the large cavity in my giant 200 pound doors, and will take about 75-80 watts RMS, well over 200 watt peak hooked up to tweeters and crossover.

My swivel mount silk dome tweeters. These are actually really nice tweeters with high efficiency and are really clear, will be at ear level and I'm not done with the interior of the car yet. I'm swapping the entire interior from a $500 parts buick I got with a screwed up engine but way better interior than mine.

Obviously, these drivers should be considered garbage by the hifi community and they really ARE garbage compared to my Velodyne ULD 18 I have in my basement which can push out 105db @ 20Hz with 0.5% THD sound coming FROM THE WOOFER, not the amplification itself and has a -3db cutoff @ 13Hz...I can still say for a fact, that it out performs much more expensive subs, and hits way harder than a 400 watt sub should. I'd recommend these to anyone looking for a good budget subwoofer.

What I plan on eventually doing in the future is sending my Soundstream Class A 10.2 amp, which can push over 1000 watts RMS with class AB amplification around 0.1% THD and is stable to a QUARTER of an ohm, to get repaired, then getting a TC sounds LMS Ultra 5400 DVC sub which can take 2000 watts RMS and push almost 140db @ 20 Hz with the right amp at under 1% THD (I really don't need more than 1000 watts). but since a $900+ driver is freaking expensive, I'm going to deal with my garbage Alpine subs until I can afford it, thanks.

High quality car amps? SHOW ME ANY amp with a better build quality than my soundstream please.. You will search for a long time to find one.

Used to be a $700+ amp back when Rockford Fosgate owned Soundstream in the early 2000's. I got it for free from my step dad who owns a towing company in an impounded car that never got paid for. Owner never took care of it and it died pretty quick, and I have no idea what's wrong with it. Caps all look good and there's no fried chips I can see, so I'm going to send it to professionals some time in the future to get repaired.

Anyway... Point is that I need a damn AT&T tablet that has LTE, GPS, a nice screen, and most importantly USB audio so I can make it physically my head unit. This will be one of the best quality audio setups possible in a car, and I can easily enjoy FLAC files with my setup even now. I plan on making A USB splitter to have a discrete SD card reader, USB port for flash drives, and the tablet will have a 64gb SD card in it already more options for the SD card reader, and I can just keep buying more SD cards with flac files on them and load them up like CD's if I want, and friends can bring USB flash drives or whatever, take out their music form their android, if they want and whatnot. Even pandora will sound a lot better than the average cd setup in a nice car with a high quality DAC. I'm probably going to get flamed like hell, like I have every god damn time I have tried asking about USB audio...

The only other possible option for me is to buy the Pioneer Appradio 2 for like $500 which is more than the god damn tablet and not gaurenteed to even work on my phone with annoying MHL adapters and all that other crap which only has proprietary software from Pioneer to interface with the phone and a crappy screen anyway. So I'm asking nicely now, with having provided evidence that my car setup already will obviously benefit from a really good DAC, can someone please tell me how to get an AT&T Tablet with hopefully Jellybean and working USB audio that works with a good USB DAC that can hopefully work with a 2.1 setup, 4 channels and not have voltage problems on the channels? It is crucial to be able to support 2.1 and not have voltage degrading from the 4 channels of audio, otherwise everything was useless.

By the way, feel free to flame my Buick with over 211,000 miles on it which has a bluebook value less than my sound system, or even the engine block itself in my car, or the wheels I got for $50 as a deal with the 4T65E transmission on creigslist retail for brand new. My OEM gas tank brand new will sell for the bluebook worth of my car..