yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Barnes & Noble Nook Tablet] bocaccio:
.4.3

i emailed albert. I should have realized it but have been "out of the game" for a few months. I need to update kernel first of all. reason im in this mess is my **** updated to 1.4.3 and book bookmarks are gone and apps wont work for the most part and i wanted a fix and also noticed all the new roms available too.
[Barnes & Noble Nook Tablet] woodsonmh:
I just installed ROM. Thank you thank you thank you. I spent most of yesterday trying out ROMs. I fell in love with jb on another ROM, but it crashed to often. This works so much better. I'm trying 2app limit full CPU and so far its not crashing.

Thanks again

woody
[Barnes & Noble Nook Tablet] tamathdb:
Is there anything i should be doing to get media players to find music on my external sd?

Edit: Found an unexpected solution. When going through the Play Store to try and find a music player that could find my files, i downloaded Mixzing which allows folder browsing and was able to play them. After i would select a folder, it would load the file details such as length. This seems to have triggered the media scan i needed, as my files now show up in all other apps. Beforehand, neither internal or external files appeared.

Seems a reboot made them disappear. Crap.
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] tt6368:
Hi all i just installed tasks new stock rom from here: http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1808015

as you can see his screenshots has some very dreamy looking clock/weather and toggle buttons widgets on the top , I've look through my rom and i couldn't find it.

help pls?
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] xTONEx:
I seen that in the ota update as well its part of the clock widget itself afaik
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] Localhorst86:
Afaik, it's called "HD Widgets"
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] tt6368:
the only two clock widgets on my tab is the analog clock and digital clock and neither is that, also there's no toggle buttons widget at all, do you mean the samsung widgets on their store?
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] dweebuk:
My first thought was it's HD Widgets too.
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] bertiespeed:
Sigh ......

Easy search asked 50 million times ..

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1357295&highlight=hd+widgets
[Galaxy Tab 10.1 General] BretonGirl:
You might want to actually read that thread and/or search. The poor Dev was asked that repeatedly by lazy folks who refused to read or search the thread and answered it repeatedly. No need to start another thread on it.
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] italysfinest327:
I was wondering if someone could make a stock notification bar with the green battery and toggles. Along with a 25% transparency. Will donate to whoever can make this happen. Something comparable to the ones in this thread http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1768962
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] davpel:
I second this, but no battery percentages please!
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] racinwarrior:
HERE YOU GUYS GO:

FLASH IN RECOVERY
[Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III] davpel:
Thanks!! Can't wait to give it a try later today.
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] gsapient:
Is there a way to make the bottom bar with the soft buttons disappear during full screen video?

That is to have the video fill the WHOLE screen?

The stock player and MX player I have tried don't do this. Is there a solution?
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] awkwardsilence50:
After updating to the newest stock firmware, the default "video player" does it automatically. Other apps such as mx player, youtube, etc. still won't.
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] gsapient:
Are you talking about 4.0.4? Because I have the P3110 with 4.0.3 witch IS the latest official one and it does not do that
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] thedicemaster:
that's how the tablet interface works.

the best any app can do is turn the buttons into faint dots

the video player is a system app that uses a workaround normal apps can't use.

to get around this you either need to root your tablet and use a statusbar toggle app like gmd gesture controls, or install cyanogenmod and enable the setting that makes the system hide the bar instead of camouflaging it.
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] gsapient:
That gmd app was exactly what I was looking for. Thanx for the tip.

I don't particularly like its gesture control though. You mentioned there are other apps that can do the same (hide the status bar)? Can you list them?
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Rotundjere:
the latest official is 4.04
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] DrEzkimo:
how? we are all stuck on 4.0.3 on our P3110
[Galaxy Tab 2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Barktooth:
Nope, for the 3110 and the 5110 the latest oficial is 4.0.3. Only for the x100 and the x113 is the 4.0.4.
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S III] musclehead84:
I know that the stock roms are named on the day they were made. For an example the epic touch ics update is ff18. F=2012 f=June 18=the 18th. And the gingerbread rom was EG30 meaning July of 2011. So i saw that the s3 rom is lg8 meaning the July the 8. My question is why is it not fg8? Where did the L come from?
[Acer Iconia A500] happyjack96:
I am selling an acer a500 16gb. Perfect condition. How much do u think gamestop would pay for it?
[Acer Iconia A500] sRDennyCrane:
http://www.gamestop.com/gs/help/default.aspx
[Acer Iconia A500] happyjack96:
Ive already looked there and couldnt find anything. I would just drive to gamestop and ask them myself but the nearest one is an hour away.
[Acer Iconia A500] gears177:
knowing gamestop about 3$ dollars
[Acer Iconia A500] Anthony820:
this. About 1/5 of what you could convince a homeless man to give you for it. I throw things away before I give then to gamestop to make a 900% profit on.
[Acer Iconia A500] JdgM3NT4L:
Yeah, you'd do so much better with Craigslist or Ebay. Just be careful if you use CL... There are way too many dudes with bags of candy lurking around that place...
[Acer Iconia A500] dragonrazorz:
I usually see how much things cost "used" and then cut that in half and take a couole more dollars off n it gives u a pretty good estimate, but id say ebay would get u more
[Acer Iconia A500] happyjack96:
Yah. I want at least 150 for it. I'm selling it on Craigslist for 200. Is that too much to ask for it?
[Acer Iconia A500] sRDennyCrane:
Yeah, the whole point was maybe ask GAMESTOP what they'd pay for it, not random internet strangers on a forum. I kinda think GameStop would have a more accurate answer. And there are other options aside from just dropping in... like, maybe, ...a phone call?

Just sayin'
[Acer Iconia A500] blacwin22:
when I did best buy's online trade in quote system two weeks ago it told me they would give me $150 for my 16gb a500
[Acer Iconia A500] dragonrazorz:
My local gamestop usually doesnt give you prices for your trade ins over the phone :/ but one time they did, but its rare
[HTC Rezound] jsmuli2:
Anyone have an overclocked kernel for NeoMAX 2.0?
[HTC Rezound] Squirrel1620:
This is the only oc kernel I've seen I use it on viperrez with no complaints

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1496934

Make sure you make a nandroid just in case
[Galaxy Ace S5830 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] _FroX_:
I followed these tutorials:

For Galaxy ACE: http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1658720&highlight=slide

In general: http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1483193

As I see it works well in DDKQ8, but what's about XWKS2/XWKSM?

I've tried, and retried, and retried but I can not get work :(

Can anyone help me?

Thanks!
[Galaxy Ace S5830 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] yanchenglee:
Maybe u culd try another rom?
[Galaxy Ace S5830 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] _FroX_:
Why I should try another rom? Wouldn't it be better to adapt the mod? DDKQ8 and XWKS2/XWKSM are not so different, but I do not know how to adapt the mod.
[LG Optimus 3D] avelosoi:
Thanks for the tips, are very helpful.
[LG Optimus 3D] Rho'd Berth:
Thanks for the tips.

I have learned that to get something to jump from the phone towards the viewer, you must keep an entire object within the picture.

Take ie. a picture of a face/head, it can be on 1m, just keep the entire head inside the frame. Don't come too close, it'll cause the headaches/canonball effect BigBadSheep already talked about, but 2m is way too much. 0.8m or 0.5m can work a lot! As long as you keep the object within the frame.

I stumbled upon this when my son kept his icecream close to the camera with his hand. When we watched the photo the icecream was really jumping out of it.

I have tested this a lot, by moving the object very close to the camera or partly out of the frame. Just play with it to find the best result.

3D pictures with water are very cool as well!

I have made many 3D pictures with people jumping into the water. Especially if you dare to keep the camera quite close to the action, it gives awesome effects!

Timing is very difficult with the O3D b/c there's about 1sec between pressing the button and the picture actually being taken.

I started to press the button 1sec before the expected water bomb, that works quite good! I now have about 30 very very cool pictures of my kids smashing into the water!

I'm more and more leaning towards favouring 3D pictures above 3D movies.

Shooting 3D movies is very hard and the image is shaking very easily which becomes too tiresome to watch. Filming in 3D is very difficult. Making pictures is cool though!

And if you watch them on a good passive(!) 3D TV it's even better!

(please all: never buy an active 3D TV, I have an active 3D TV myself and I use it less and less. the effect is so bad during daylight and the on/off button is very tedious, especially the switching all the time if you're moving through pictures etc. passive 3D tvs work perfect during daylight, never the strobing effect. cheap glasses. no batteries needed for glasses.

My father/sister has a passive TV and I really regret having an active TV. Surely, the 3D is good and all, but compared to the passive (LG/Philips) TV of my father/sister, passive is just the way to go.

Don't believe those who claim that active gives a full HD while passive doesn't. It's bollocks. At first b/c the strobing effect is far worse then even the supposed half Full HD effect could be. Secondly b/c both active and passive offer a half Full HD effect. Active just closes your left and right eyes half of the time while passive hids half the image from your left and right eye)
[LG Optimus 3D] mistermentality:
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.

As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.

Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.

Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.

They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.

This halving of resolution on passive 3D is why some sets now go higher than 1080p so that when displayed passively the video is same resolution as an active set although most sets still don't do this.

http://hometheater.about.com/od/tel...ve-Polarized-Vs-Active-Shutter-3d-Glasses.htm

Dave

( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
[LG Optimus 3D] BigBadSheep:
As an owner of a 3D active

I must say that still the active is the way to be, even if now there are some TV with passive 3D that makes a good picture. I own the LG 50PX950N TV set, the first with THX certified 3D. Always the LG. But, as it happens always, LG pulled out from the hat the 3D passive which is advertised as better as the active ones, from here seeing the in all company, on all branches, is the philosophy: you bought it? Thanks alot sucker! because they made these passive one 7 months after the shouted out: you've made the greatest 3D active TV ever!

But still , as stated, I think that active is still the way.

And, in another news, I would like to write about how to connect the phone to the TV in such manner that you get 3D directly out of the box. I had some time to figure this out.

First you need the HDMI 1.4 cable. Then, from the HDMI settings you must force it on 1080p (50Hz or 60 HZ - I think it makes no difference, seeing that now all TVs can make both frequencies). Leaving in automatic mode it just takes the native resolution of the screen, which is 480x800 and in this mode you wont't get the 3D effect, nor the HD videos played.

Next, about the 3D pictures, will be a tutorial on how to make them "universal", meaning being able to display them on every display, with red-cyan 3 mode.
[LG Optimus 3D] oyanezg:
I also use to have the fuji 3D w1 by the way update the firmware it will improve too much, I sell it and got they W3 and it's waaaayyy better. Thanks for the tips man.
[LG Optimus 3D] Rho'd Berth:
No, both eyes receive half the Full HD resolution, together that's Full HD.

Active shutter is closing one eye after another eye. All the time only 1 of your eyes can see the screen. The other one is closed / blackened.

The TV is showing first the left eye frame and then the right eye frame. While the left eye frame is showed, the right eye is blackened, and the other way around.

That's what I said, they feed the full image to each eye half of the time.

Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.

When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.

It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.

Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.

Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.

We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.
[LG Optimus 3D] botson71:
I have to agree with everything of the above. I also have an active 3D Samsung TV and especially during the daylight there are problems. Not to mention the extremely expensive 3D glasses.

Last weekend a friend of mine who just purchased a passive 3D LG TV (with 8 FREE glasses included) had a BBQ party of 6 people. I took some 3D videos with my O3D and played them on his TV. All 6 people at the same time could enjoy my 3D videos on his TV under broad daylight. With my TV this could be impossible.
[LG Optimus 3D] mistermentality:
As you just pointed out the active glasses send the full image to each eye alternating between left and right but both eyes do still see full hd in both eyes because the two images are at full resolution.

They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.

As for expensive glasses, you can buy them for under fifteen pound in uk and rechargeables are only twenty something pound and neither are heavy, I watched the olympics for three hours no problem at all last night.

I do need to explain regarding strobing, I was referring to the 3D image not strobing.

You are right that light sources will flicker, but I don't watch much 3D tv during the day so for me it isn't an issue as I prefer watching films with the lights off but yes you are right on that.

This review of both at http://m.cnet.com/news/active-3d-vs-passive-3d-whats-better/57437344?ds=1 does a good job of explaining what I mean even though the author prefers passive they do admit active has higher resolution.

In a few years I will probably get a passive set as by then 4K passive sets will be higher res than current active ones but for now I prefer a higher resolution image but each format has benefits.

Dave

( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
[LG Optimus 3D] Rho'd Berth:
Dave,

So you admit that there is strobing of light (not the TV) that is annoying. You're just saying that it doesn't matter b/c you don't watch TV during daylight anyway. So let's keep it honest: there is a problem, and you can't watch 3D movies during the summer and much of the spring.

And again you claim that you see Full HD to both eyes at the same time.

No, that's not true, all the time 1 of your eyes is covered. Never do you see a Full HD image to both your eyes at the same time.

I'm not saying that passive is better a picturing a Full HD image, it's just using a different technique.

Passive 3D: Both your eyes get half a Full HD image all the time

Active 3D: Both your eyes get a Full HD image half the time

In my opinion the quality is very very good on both active and passive 3D.

The reason I favour passive is b/c of the:

- strobing during daylight

- annoying expensive glasses

And so far everybody who has experienced both Passive and Active 3D TV agrees with me.

Only people who read up the theory and never saw a passive 3D TV disagree.

Robert
[LG Optimus 3D] botson71:
No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.

For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?

Check the chart here:

http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
[LG Optimus 3D] xtrustkillx:
I have 42" lg tv and i can definitely see the difference between 720p and 1080p from 2,5m or so. Clearly see it for example in ps3 xmb is in 1080p vs xbox dash which is always in 720p just upscaled. Or when playing sacred 2(one of the few games that run in full hd) in xbox try to set 1080p play and then set 720p and it will look like **** compared to 1080p. So full hd matters. Not to mention difference in movies.
[LG Optimus 3D] botson71:
That's not surprising considering your TV size and the your viewing distance. If you look at the chart, for 42" TV the 2.5m you're sitting it's actually the upper limit for distinguishing between 720p and 1080p (the actual range is 1.6-2.5m for a 42" TV). But if you sit 3-4m away, you can't distinguish between 720p and 1080p. ;)

And that's for a normal 2D picture which uses as a source sharp graphics and fonts of PS3 games. If you watch instead 3D video the differences between 1080p and 720p are even less apparent considering the slightly darker image and the glasses.
[LG Optimus 3D] mistermentality:
Ive posted two links which explain clearly that active gives full hd to each eye and passive does not.

I could post a hundred but you will still insist I'm mistaken or lying.

If you can't see that a full hd image to each eye (your eye combines both hd images to make one 3D image so it is a full hd 3D image) is better than half hd I then nothing I say and no links I post will convince you and this thread will just become a kind of back and forth argument that goes nowhere so I will agree to disagree.

And yes passive is better except for resolution, as I explained when you said strobing I was referring to what a lot of people do when saying that which is that the tv image strobes and disagreeing about that.

So yes passive is good but it is still correct that for resolution per eye active remains better for now. That doesn't make active better in general of course but in that specific area it does.

And of course people will still argue that I'm incorrect or have never seen passive 3D etc so I'm going to agree that we can disagree.

Dave

( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )

---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------

I agree. I chose active for the higher picture resolution primarily as I watch most of my films in the dark so any flickering of daylight isn't a problem for me. And because I like the tv of course.

Dave

( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
[LG Optimus 3D] TylDurden:
Thanks for the 3D Photo tips. I don't do a whole lot of 3D Photography since I suck at it, maybe these tips will change that and I'll get back into it.

Also just to chime in on the whole Active vs Passive debate I have a 23" LG Passive set and even a passive set with glasses I have a hell of a time finding the sweet spot. I thought a set with glasses wouldn't have that problem like our phones do. Obviously our phones have a parralax barrier and that's why you have to find the sweet spot but with my LG set and Passive glasses I still have to nail a vertical sweet spot. I can't be too high or too low. This also effects how close I can sit to the set. If I sit too far away than I will get ghosting on either the top or the bottom of the screen. I can shift myself higher or lower and make one of them go away but the only way to fix them both is to simply move myself closer to the screen. My friend has an Active set and we never have any of these issues with his set. It's in his basement and is pitch black in broad daylight so he's never had to worry about bright daylight. The cheap glasses of the Passive set are nice but the sweet spot is such a hassle.

Maybe someone can point out what I'm doing wrong and I can have a much better 3D experience with my Passive set.
[LG Optimus 3D] BigBadSheep:
Well...glad to be helpful

But again I'll be talking from personal experience. Before I buy my TV set - a 50 inches LG PX950N, I was searching on all forums for every kind of info. And at that moment I've reached the conclusion, and is also recommended, that in order to enjoy a real 3D effect your TV set has to be 40 inches or bigger, especially for passive, which at that moment - I'm talking March 2012, wasn't so much accepted. And because my living room isn't big enough I went for a 50 inches Plasma TV set for three reasons - 3D effect (with all those criterias to obey to - size and active) but also that the TV must give full satisfaction in 2D mode HiDef and SD. And the third one as I had this offer - TV set and 3D camera (and here's another story to tell) I bought all just for 1000 euros (plus 40 euros for SD HC card for the 3D camera). Overall a good affair.

Now what can I tell in your case: maybe isn't you that don't get the perfect photo maybe it's just the size of your 3D TV set. And surely it's the passive mode which still is not a real option.

NEW TIP (which I forgot about it) - When you're gonna shoot in 3D mode just don't make a full press of the onscreen button, press it just a little shorter in time in order to get the real preview of the photo. In this preview you'll see how the final photo will be. And if you get some ghost image just adjust the parallax and try to get all the objects or most of them without ghost trails or sides.

Another TIP - set your screen brightness at maximum level because if you have it reduces you might not notice ghost effects

Another TIP - the focus area works better if is set on center not on border - don't ask why but I do see a difference.

And most important TIP - try, try, try. Remember every settings used to take the photos and compare same photos of the same object but with different settings and see which ones are working for you.

Thanks guys for reading and replying to my posts.