yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Samsung Captivate Glide] gabby131:
Never had a single connectivity issue. But i did have sleep deaths (were the device wont wake up during sleep), it did happen only once or twice, until now, never experienced any

Yes the glide is a GSM device, works with SIM cards. There are unlock codes available, but because the glide is only months old (almost a year), you might get your unlock code quite delayed from unlocking companies.

as per the Devs here and in teamhacksung, the Glide is capable of running CyanogenMod. If time permits, devs can get CM ported on the Glide.

hope this answers some of your concerns.
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
It sure does! Thanks! :)

Also, have a couple more too:D

What are the possible ways in which I can buy one in India? Online shopping for an unlocked version?
[Samsung Captivate Glide] gabby131:
hmmm...i think negrielectronics sell them unlocked (ATT version) and i believe they ship internationally.....

ebay is another one, but you need to be very careful.

so far that's what i know....will update
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
sure. thanks again! :)
[Samsung Captivate Glide] VinayS:
In December I had bought an Captivate Glide through eBay for a great deal..

Got it to India, through Borderlinx - http://www.borderlinx.com/pages/how-it-works

(slightly costlier compared to other service providers) with duty and taxes..

+ Unlocking - 20 to 25$..

Overall it came below 500$.. I guess now it will be much cheaper..
[Samsung Captivate Glide] sbiricuda:
check this thread :)
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
oh that's great :)

Seeing you are from India, I tried to PM you the day I created this thread, but it didn't work somehow!

supposing I can have someone get me a piece from the US, I should suggest them to buy an unlocked version, right?

Will I still need to unlock it again in India? (Like with American_Unlocker and all?)

Also, are you facing any sort of problems with the sub-par network providers in India?

Sorry for the n00bness! :o

Sure. Thanks! :)
[Samsung Captivate Glide] VinayS:
If you can get an unlocked AT & T or Rogers version (without carrier symbol), there is no need to unlock it again in india. once unlocked, stays for forever..

You will not face any problem with any sim provider..

At india carriers use 2G - GSM 900/1800 and 3G-UMTS 2100.

This phone has 2G Network	GSM 850 / 900 / 1800 / 1900

3G Network	HSDPA 850 / 1900 / 2100
[Samsung Captivate Glide] dudejb:
I love to see how many people are using this phone all around the world ! Or at least trying too!

******************************

Installed:

CWMR5x_i927_recovery.tar.md5

Ardatdat Kernel v1.2

Rogers Stock Rom with Some Bloat Removed..
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
Okay. So say I order this deal - http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Samsung-Cap...&_pcatid=801&_pcategid=9355&_dmpt=Cell_Phones, address it to someone in US and get it in India.

I'll still need to unlock it because its from ebay, right?

Similarly if I order this - https://negrielectronics.com/samsun...glide-rogers-unlocked-black.html#.T7XUReh7VXA from Negri, it will be unlocked, right?

Also, I assume this will support 3G in India.

n00bness! apologizes! :o

:)

Its a beautiful phone. I wonder why isn't Samsung launching it worldwide! :confused:
[Samsung Captivate Glide] VinayS:
@eBay you have both Locked and Unlocked versions available..

negrielectronics offes unlocked version and yes 3G will work..
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
Great. Thanks a lot :)
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
Which deal to go for?

I have contacted someone in the US who will order the phone online, collect it and bring it to India.

Now the question is, which deal to go for? (among the choices given below?

OR

Can it bought at the stores and unlocked later through AmericanUnlocker?

Preferably, I'd choose to do the latter, if its possible!

Anyway, the online deals I could get are:

1. http://canadagsm.ca/SAMSUNG/Captivate-Glide-i927/

I don't think this is the Rogers version! I wouldn't want the AT&T logo on my phone, but then this isn't a deal breaker. $325 seems like a good price.

2. http://negrielectronics.com/samsung-sgh-i927-captivate-glide-rogers-unlocked-black.html

At $455, its almost a $100 expensive. I don't understand the reason! :confused:

3. http://negrielectronics.com/samsung-captivate-glide-at-t-black-unlocked.html

This is available for $349! Only because its AT&T and the former is Rogers!

4. http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Samsung-Cap...&_pcategid=15032&_dmpt=Cell_Phones&_dashexp=1

Ebay is giving it for $310 !!

Now this is confusing!! :confused: Why the fluctuation in prices? :confused:
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
<< Bump >>

Anyone? :s

Can the phone be bought over the counter without a contract?
[Samsung Captivate Glide] phatryan69:
U can always buy a phone withou a contract but ur gonna get shafted with the price.. ur beat bet is either online or have someone bring it to u...
[Samsung Captivate Glide] aashish2137:
I've someone bringing it for me, but I'm getting variable prices on online offers. All this shakes the trust in these retailers. That is why I want to buy it over the counter.. I'll check the price difference later, but is it possible to go to an AT&T store and buy one, without getting a contract?
[Samsung Captivate Glide] ajt1995:
Yes.
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 General] lukabike:
Currently on Litening ROM, like the speed and call recording feature, not so much the blue theme. Using GO launcher. Has anyone migrated from Litening to ICS and can comment the speed difference?
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 General] Inuit:
I moved from Litening to ICS and ICS seems to be a little bit faster.

But the battery was far better with litening.

Greetings

Inuit
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 General] chadrick.7:
I moved from lightning and I am so glad I did.
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 General] dbzgts:
Anyone notice improvement in the graphic too??? It looks mo sharpen
[Galaxy Note GT-N7000 General] lukabike:
Nice, but what are the things that make you happy? I just installed litening a week ago and since it's quite faster than official GB, I'd really like to hear more from other ex-litening users :)
[XPERIA X8 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] chbea:
can we use google voice chat, seach etc?

i have try but no reponding. any 1 can comfirm working?
[XPERIA X8 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] zlewe:
Same here. Not responding. Maybe nAa will fix it on next version.

Edit: But some people said it works.

Send from my E15i using xda premium.

Press thanks if helped ;)

*Xperia X8 Black @ ICS 4.0.4 miniCM9 on nAa ICS*

Thank you very much nAa!
[XPERIA X8 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Godra:
I read somewhere that it will work if you use older .apks, from Gingerbread for example. Its because those libs still arent fully working on ICS.
[HTC Rezound] QuintonS:
Is there anyway to reset the Rezound to the factory locked bootloader?
[HTC Rezound] PhantasmRezound:
http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?p=25165453

Assuming you have done the HTC Dev unlock, you must do S-off and follow the guide here to get back to reading "Locked" and "S-on" simultaneously.

Edit: Ok, so I see you are S-off at the moment, you are going to want to backup all your data in your custom recovery if you haven't done so already (still on CWM or got that straightened out?)

Going to download the latest official RUU available (the GB OTA at the moment); here is a link to the GB OTA thanks to con247: http://xdaforums.com/showthread.

R...uide to S-On to restore that too if you wish.
[HTC Rezound] LakerStar25:
If I remember correctly if it's a patched hboot and not the stock hboot your not supposed relock it because you can brick that way. Since the phone is S-OFF just running the GB RUU will be fine then just factory reset from hboot after the RUU finishes and your good to go. Also it's ok to keep it S-OFF because some phones come stock that way but if you really want you can run the command to get S-ON.

Sent from my ICS Rezound
[HTC Rezound] PhantasmRezound:
Yes, this. Didn't mean to suggest actually trying to Relock your phone post S-off. That would definitely be bad if you accepted the JuopunutBear hboot or flashed the Engineer one instead of Stock hboot.

So in any case, you should go ahead and run the RUU after backing up data, do the factory reset, and follow through with turning the security flag to ON if you're wanting the full original state (though Verizon almost certainly won't check or care, and the next user mostly benefits from S-off)

((Sorry, I was just thinking how I jumped the whole gun the hour after JuopunutBear came out. Kept my stock hboot before anybody knew why the process was wanting to push that patched hboot to the phone lol. I used the Dev unlock procedure again *after* S-off. So, at this point I would have to do this process twice to get the same result, to first get a plain Locked status by running the RUU and doing the S-off procedure again... then RUU and do S-on too. Totally forgot those custom JB hboots will say "JuopunutBear" instead of whatever lock status it may be. :o Edited original post.))
[HTC Rezound] LakerStar25:
Cool I was just trying to help out lol. :D

Sent from my ICS Rezound
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
So, i'm trying to add in a usb microsd adapter to my Kindle Fire.

Threads before I started, just discussing ideas:

KF forum: http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1615055

Hardware hacking forum: http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1615059

Now, I just about completed the project, but I dropped the motherboard and broke it while soldering a wire onto it. I've just bought another KF off of ebay and will continue at that point, but while i'm waiting I need some advice/help.

I've made a diagram of what i'm going to do. It's pretty horrible, but I think it's understandable.

Few questions that go with the diagram:

*DC only flows one way, do I need the diodes?

*If I should use the diodes will these work? (max output they would need to withstand would be 7v and 1A cause of the wall charger)

*The wall charger puts out 1000mA(1A) when charging. USB puts out 100mA, would that 1A ruin the adapter since it's designed for USB? If so, should I use some resistors?(Unsure cause they would change the regular, lower output to the adapter)(Or the resistors could be put into the charger)

*More questions/concerns on the diagram

Diagram:

Taken off because it was incorrect.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
I'm still a bit fuzzy on what's going on here.

I'm not sure what the (2) 3.7V batteries and the 4.4V boards are.

Is that the stock Kindle Fire power supply that you are showing?

Th first question: Have you gotten the USB SD card to work normally plugged in externally?

If not, have you gotten the USB SD card to work through a powered hub?

All the diodes on the black lines are drawn backwards.

You don't need any diodes there or even a reed switch on the black line.

You might have a problem activating the 4 (remaining) reed switches simultaneously and reliably.

If you've never seen voltage out of the KF USB connector, that means that you've not gotten it into USB host mode.

Oh, of course the KF has a single 3.7V battery so I don't know what that whole right side is doing.
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
The battery is made up of two 3.7v batteries, they just stuck them together and put a board there to control the power flow or whatever. I said it's lowered to 4.4v cause normally when two batteries are put together their voltage gets added together, but that 4.4v is coming from the very end pins, there are 10 total. I get 4.4v when trying the other pins too, so since i'm only connecting it to one set of pins i'm just going with 4.4v.

No, I haven't. I have not been able to successfully get USB host working at all, even with a USB host cable. I don't have a powered hub, but I tried taking the power from a USB port on my computer and that didn't work either. Other people have it working though, some with powered hubs, and a few without.

It might have just been my Kindle, so i'll see when I get the other Kindle I ordered.

I thought I was doing them backwards, I know how they go on physically, but I wasn't sure about on paper.

I'm not sure that i'll need all the reed switches, I may just need two; one to disconnect the ID(blue wire) from the back, and one to disconnect one of the data lines. I wasn't able to experiment though since I never got USB host working.

I tried measuring the voltage directly on the board and from the USB host cable and didn't a reading from either.(When I measured on the board I shorted out the ID an GND wires like they are on a USB host cable)

What I was trying to do with the battery there was prevent power from the charger going directly to the battery, that would be bad. So I do need at least one diode on each line there, but the other two I added cause I didn't want any extra power to be wasted. Of course, it doesn't make much sense to me(not sure what I was thinking), that's why I asked if it was necessary.

Picture of the battery and the board connected to it. I took it apart and removed the second one to move it over and resolder it so there was space down the middle for the wires. The adapter will be at the top where the speakers are.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
This whole idea has lots of problems.

Taking power directly off the battery is not a good idea for many reasons,

the least of which is that many (most?) USB devices won't work on 4.4 volt.

Throw in a silicon diode and you're down a further 0.7 volts.

Ok, you could make it a Schottky diode if you want.

You're still going to have to disconnect both data lines to get this to work,

unless you are planning to only use the external USB connector for charging.

Using host mode, the power should be coming out of the USB interface.

As mentioned, if you don't have it there, it's not working.

Here's a sequence of a Kindle Fire teardown: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Kindle-Fire-Teardown/7099/1
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
Taking power straight from the battery is only a temporary solution, the devs working on the 3.0 kernel is working on fixing the OTG issues and trying to remove the kernel limit of 3v. Also, from what I understand there are other issues that the KF is having regulating the voltage out, people report that below 50% battery USB host stops working.

So, if the issues get fixed i'll just disconnect the battery, or, as I said before, it may have just been my Kindle. I got it used & broken and fixed it myself, so it may have been damaged more than I was aware. I would be able to provide more definitive answers if I had something to experiment with, but I won't have the other Kindle for a few days.

Also, since i'll have a second battery now, i'm not as worried about the battery being damaged.

I do realize that the diodes drop the voltage by .7v, but people who have USB host working report that the KF is putting out 3.3v, and some people have gotten certain flash drives and other devices to work off of that. I believe the microsd adapter I have will work off of that lower voltage.

I only charge using a wall adapter, and charging did work for me as long as the ID and GND cables were separated. My main concern is that adb and fastboot work since i'll just be transferring files to the Kindle and the sdcard with FTP. Which, if adb works so will mass storage, so...

Without using the battery it's just and internal OTG USB host set up with a switch/es, so in theory it should work.

I also don't need and diodes if it's not connected to the battery. I was just hooking it up to the battery cause I wasn't getting any power from the Kindle.

As for the reed switches not working reliably, I did read something before that said that they might screw each other up if they were all right next to each other. What if they were lined up end to end, would they interfere with each other like that? If they do work properly end to end all I need is a custom, long, slender, and rectangular neodymium magnet.

Again, I didn't really have much time to experiment since gravity and I screwed up my motherboard. I had just done some physical modding to the housing and framing to make space for everything, and done some testing on the voltages that it was putting out.

Also, thanks for the help and advice :D
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
Ok, here's what I was planning on doing without the battery, any problems now, besides the potential issues with the reed switches?
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
Ok, the TWL6030 used in the KF uses an LDO regulator for VBUS on USB for OTG

and is speced for 3.3V at 35 mA

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/twl6030.pdf

The Nook Touch that I have uses a TPS65921 (a/k/a TWL4030) which uses a charge pump

and is speced for 5.0V and guaranteed for 50 to 100 mA depending on battery voltage.

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/swcs048f/swcs048f.pdf page 16

I've seen some devices that won't even work at 4.5V

Keyboards generally draw about 5mA.

I've seen audio adapters at 25 mA.

Some thumb drives take a lot of current.

Keeping the red connected all the time may or may not be a problem.

An inactive USB device should not be drawing much (any?) current, but you can never tell.

Bottom line, I don't think that the KF is a very good candidate for stand-alone OTG.

I'd use a powered (and back-powering) hub if I owned a KF.
[Hardware Hacking General] AdamOutler:
I don't know what's going on here.. but I corrected your power supply in the schematic above.
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
Thanks for the info, I cut open a cable and plugged it into my computer with a resistor hooked up to it and got the voltage down to about 3.4v and the adapter that i'm using still ran and was recognized. I'm unsure about the current though.

It's not really OTG if it has to be hooked up to a separate power supply :/

I don't understand why i'd need a 5v regulator on the battery when it's only putting out 4.4v? (Again, current-wise i'm unsure)

Also, the ID wire(blue) needs to be connected to the GND to activate USB host mode, it tells the device that it's a master and not a slave.

And I don't know if you read my previous posts, but I may not even be using the battery if I can get USB host working like everyone else. And the diodes were there cause I didn't want power going directly to the battery since it could mess it up.
[Hardware Hacking General] AdamOutler:
Well, your circuit is wrong in a bunch of different ways so I redesigned it.

0. USB requires 5V regulated power.

1. the ground diodes are pointing the wrong way so the power would not flow.

2. When charging the battery you'd kill your device

3. zener diodes breakover at a certain voltage, not regulate. Those zener would just prevent any voltage from flowing. You'd want a Silicone Controlled Rectifier.

4. The 2 extra diodes do nothing at all in your circuit.

5. Each diode drops .7V. Your circuit effectively uses 4 of them between power and ground from the battery. so, by the end of your circuit, the microSD adapter gets 1.6 volts.... no where near what's required to run the device.

So, I corrected the circuit.

Didn't read that you were using any other method, still havn't.. Just wanted to correct the circuit in case someone else tries to do it.
[Hardware Hacking General] AdamOutler:
I built my own car charger using a similar circuit. It's the same thing you'll find in a powered usb hub, although they may use diodes to prevent a backflow of power into the computer.
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
*If it requires 5v then how do devices run with less with USB host on other people's KFs?

*I'm aware that the ground diodes are the wrong way, I asked in my og diagram, and mentioned in a previous post that I know how they go on physically, just not in a diagram.

*That's why I had the diodes, to prevent messing up the battery and device

*I still don't understand how/why it needs to be regulated when it's only 4.4v, it's not over 5v.

I know what zener diodes are, all I would need is to prevent power going straight into the battery, and that's what the diodes would do.

*I wasn't going to use those extra two diodes on each battery line unless someone said that it did something, it was suggested to me by someone who has less electronical knowledge than me and I figured it doesn't hurt to ask.

*And with the 3.3v from the Kindle and 4.4v from the battery minus the 2.8v required for four diodes it equals 4.9v, which should work, but hopefully I don't have to use the battery.

Also, if you look at the picture in my post here it shows exactly what a OTG USB host cable does minus the switches. All I did was add the battery and diodes to prevent power from the charger going into the battery and power from the battery going into the charge port. In theory that should work out. And like I said before, hopefully I don't need to use the battery at all.

I removed the picture in the first post since it was incorrect; while I doubt anyone is going to try it at this point, I understand your sentiment.
[Hardware Hacking General] AdamOutler:
Look, im not saying my way is totally up to standards, but it comes much closer than yours with fewer parts, less work and i gaurantee it will work. The proper way is to buy a powered hub and connect to that. If you dont want feedback, dont post in a discussion forum.

Im done wasting my time on this thread. Youre doing it wrong.
[Hardware Hacking General] aaricchavez:
No need to get all upset bro, i'm just replying to what you've said(Like you said, discussion forum). You said you didn't read any previous posts, and it was obvious, you kept saying things that had already been brought up. And you say things like "Those zener would just prevent any voltage from flowing" when I was saying that was what I was trying to do anyways. Your comment implies that you think that I shouldn't use them, but with no explanation as to why not.

It's not that I don't want feedback, but you keep saying i'm doing it wrong, but you're not answering the questions that I ask. You're just saying "My way is right, your way is wrong," basically.

I repeatedly asked why it needs to be regulated when it's already less than 5v.

I also asked "If it requires 5v then how do devices run with less with USB host on other people's KFs?"

And I realize I didn't post this, but my next question was going to be, with the regulator there I would still need to put the diodes in to prevent power from the battery from going into the charge port and power from the charger going directly into the battery, correct?

Tl;dr:

You're right, you're wasting your and my time because you're not answering my questions, you're not explaining why your way is correct, and you keep bringing up things that were already discussed that I know about.
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
Um, luck? Sure, a lot of devices are not picky about power.

The specification for USB is 5.0 V

Some devices may not have enough voltage to run at 3.3 V

Some devices may not have enough current to run at 35 mA

Some may simply not detect the presence until it rises over a threshold of 4.5 V

An SD card all by itself uses a nominal 3.3 V

The USB interface circuit is a separate issue.

The math may be correct, but unfortunately the circuit is not in series.

The voltages just don't add up that way.

You'd need a "floating" battery (not the built-in one) to make the voltages add.

Getting a higher voltage from somewhere and using a 5 V voltage regulator would work.

However, you might need up to 7 V input because your garden-variety regulator has a "dropout voltage" of about 2.0 at full current.

That's why there are special "low dropout" (LDO) regulators designed for such cases.

Still, they can't make more voltage than what they take in.

For that we use charge pumps or boost regulators.

Both of those are active switching devices.