yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
voilà!

Built and working flawlessly :D

Parts

1 - General Purpose Printed Circuit Board

1 - ATTINY85V-10PU (you'll need to program it @1MHz with the Arduino sketch attached)

1 - MCP1700-1802 E/TO (to regulate the +5V down to 1.8V)

2 - 1µF Capacitors (good practice - to minimize supply voltage spikes)

3 - 10kΩ Resistors (used as pull-up resistors)

1 - 3 Switch DIP (used with the pull-up resistors to control the modes)

optional (if you want to output the middle pogo SPDIF signal to a red LED -

I haven't been able to test this signal, it may not work!

)

1 - MPS A-14 (to amplify the 1.8V middle pogo signal)

1 - Red LED

1 - 470Ω Resistor (cheap and easy way to control the current through the LED)

Pictures

Working Setup on Breadboard

Desk Dock Mode Activated (DIY instructions for the dock I'm using are here)

Playing a video (with audio) on the phone does light up the Red LED when Audio Out is on ... but that's as far as I could test it.

AC Charging Mode Activated

Working Setup on General Purpose Printed Circuit Board

Schematic Diagram

General Purpose Printed Circuit Board Layout Diagrams
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
It looks fantastic!! You put a lot of effort in! I'll have to run through the parts list again (in the middle of home improvement work right now). So adding a TOSlink transmitter is possible. Would you just replace the LED with the transmitter? Thanks!
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
:D

You *may* be able to get away with using the red LED itself without having to pay $ for an actual TOSlink connector. Take a look at what Sea Shadow did in this post.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
Yeah, but how can we do that and have a reliable connection? This will be going in a vehicle. I just kinda figured a TOSlink adapter was the way to go.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
duct tape - solves everything! (just don't use it to hang posters on the wall ... I learned that the hard way, lol).

I just wish someone would confirm that how I setup the MPS A-14 transistor is correct and will work. IFF it works, then yes, you can replace the LED and probably the 470 resistor as well with a dedicated TOSlink connector. FYI, I was looking at prices for a TOSlink connector and they're around $25 each.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
Link? I thought I saw them for about $10 less. There are different kinds (TX vs. RX) and different mounts. I wasn't even sure which mount was needed.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/TOTX1701(F)/TOTX1701F-ND/1927524

From just a quick search ... may not even be the mount your looking for.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
The part you listed isn't a TOSlink adapter. Its used for optical fiber IP networks. That's why its so expensive.

This part is a digital audio transmitter. I have no idea if the pin out would work.

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/GP1FA352TZ0F/425-2467-5-ND/736033
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Well that clears things up a lot.

If you can find the 5V version, then you can hook up Vcc to +5VDC, GND to GND, and Vout to the transistor side of the 470ohm resistor.

If you're forced to use this 3V, 12mA version, then you could use a voltage divider resistor setup for Vcc:

+5VDC --- 167ohm --- Vcc --- 250ohm --- GND

And a similar setup for Vout:

5V DATA --- 167ohm --- Vout --- 250ohm --- GND
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] ice9mike:
You guys have done some great work here. I commend you.

I did some research on the toslink jack and looked at what the current dock uses. The Samsung pogo dock has a mini jack that can transmit optical digital and analog audio via a standard 3.5 mm plug. This transmitter is very similar to the following:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GP1FD310TP/425-1113-1-ND/702973

There is a spec sheet attached to that page. The only problem is that they only have 1 in stock. These aren't easy to find here in the states. Most likely they are China made alternatives, but they would be hard to get in the US for quantities less than 1000.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] imaweasal:
Found the attached at the bottom of a page where the author makes a complete spdif decoding board.

If anyone wants to convert the optical to coax before it leaves the board, this looks like it would work if you connected the optical input directly in place of the red led/toslink driver.

Sorry, I'm not allowed to post links yet, if you want the orig. page, pm me.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
That's interesting! I've never heard of such a beast. Very cool! I was skeptical (because of Internet), but I found the corresponding cable, here. However, it looks like we should probably try and find a 5V optical transmitter module so we don't have to dink with any of the resistors.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
This should do the trick

US site - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PLT133/T9/1080-1429-ND/2693986

Canadian site - http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/PLT133/T9/1080-1429-ND/2693986

Note that this may say IR photolink, but it operates on 660nm, which is only 10nm higher than the Toshiba TOSlink transmitter.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
If I'm reading the data sheet correctly, it needs 5V in (with 0.1uF cap across Vcc and GND) and should take the SPDIF signal. Am I reading this incorrectly?

Also, 660nm seems to be the typical wavelength for optical digital audio.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Nope, you're correct. It'll take the signal from where the 470ohm resistor connects to the transistor. As well, since there's already a 1uF capacitor between +5VDC and GND, the 0.1uF capacitor would be redundant.

[EDIT] added revised schematic
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Selling a Kit (Limited Quantity)

[EDIT] SOLD OUT - only made 7 kits anyways :)

I'm working on putting together a limited number of parts-kits of the above circuit (also attached) for sale. Price is $20 + $5 shipping (in USA).

1 - General PCB (like my pictures)

1 - ATTINY85V-10PU (preprogrammed with the attached sketch)

1 - 8 Pin DIP Socket (you'll want to pull out the pin 1 connector because it's not used)

1 - MCP1700-1802 E/TO

2 - 1µF Capacitors

3 - 10kΩ Resistors

1 - 3 Switch DIP

9 - Jumper Pins

1 - MPS A-14

1 - PLT133/T9 (TOSLink Transmitter)

The above is everything you'll need for the circuit itself (and included in the kit).

To use the circuit you'll need:

(1) A way to connect the +5VDC and GND from a power supply to the +5VDC & GND jumpers.

(2) An optical TOSLink cable to hook the PLT133/T9 to a DAC or TOSLink-in on something.

(3) A way to connect your 3 pogo points on the phone to the +5VDC, GND, and Pogo Data jumpers.

I just can't stress enough that I have yet to test if the MPS A-14 is actually working as intended and amplifying a proper TOSLink signal that can be read by a DAC or TOSLink-in.

Even after all the above, if you're still interested, I've ordered some PLT133/T9 from DigiKey and should receive them by Thursday and have the kit shipped from Blaine, WA on Saturday.

PM if you're interested. I'll get shipping addresses and ask for paypal payment on Friday (but only if I'm able to ship to you on Saturday).
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
This is spectacular work! I have been following this thread. In that link, they specifically state that pogo pins from this vendor would probably work. They mention the model 3413. Check out that xda thread on page 5 and I think that would mean we have a complete setup for our phones!
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
TOSLink Transmitter throws a wrench in the works

Oh man, I made a mistake in my last schematic when I added the TOSLink transmitter. Here's a revision - which I've visually tested, but have yet to hook up to a TOSLink DAC.

Basically, the MPS A-14 is being used as a digital switch on the ground line. Thus, if the PLT133/T9 was hooked up as shown before ... nothing would have happened. It would have been connecting the Vin of the PLT133/T9 to a switched ground - open or closed the Vin would always read 0V. And adding a pull-up resistor to Vin would actually end up inverting the data signal.

As a workaround, I've decided to try and turn the PLT133/T9 into a glorified LED by direct connecting both the Vin and Vc to +5V, and switching it's GND connection with the MSP A-14. As I said at the beginning of this post, it *looks* like it works - but I'm going to need to go to BestBuy tomorrow and see if the store clerks there will let me test this on one of their display amps. Wish me luck!
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
I'm confused. If you look at the datasheet for the PLT133/T9, you'll see that Vcc takes between 3V and 5V, yet Vin only takes -0.5 to Vcc+0.5...oh wait, I get it. It can take up to 5.5V? But isn't Vin supposed to take the Pogo Data pin? Obviously, I know nothing about circuit design. It's been 14 years since my last electronics class. If I'm just being dumb, please ignore me.

EDIT1: I am seeing a little more. You are saying the MPS A-14 is switching ground because it's bridged with ground from the ATTINY85V-10PU, PIN 4. Is there a reason that you can't just jump the pogo ground and go straight to the MPS A-14? Shouldn't the ATTINY85V-10PU, PIN 4 just turn on the transistor (thus letting data through from the POGO DATA pin to the optical transceiver) after the initial home/car/audio/charging method is negotiated?

EDIT2: Ok, I think I know where you're going. I'm not sure if you have the transistor oriented correctly (but it could just be an initial drawing, again i'm no where close to an expert). You want the voltage from the POGO_DATA to switch the transistor "on". But in this case "on" means a connection to ground thus completing the optical transmitter circuit. You're feeding 5V to both Vcc and Vin. When POGO_DATA flips (digital audio signal, on/off) it completes the ground circuit, thus powering the on/off the whole optical transmitter, in theory, recreating the same digital audio signal. My question is, does the Opt_Trans work that way? Does it need constant Vcc/GND and then Vin just "flickers" the laser diode?
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Actually, consider the MPS A-14 more as a digital controlled switch. The middle pin (Pogo Data) controls whether the switch is open or closed - thus connecting the two outside pins with one another. This method works great to turn a discrete LED on and off by opening/closing a "switch" in the LED's power circuit. But when you have something like the PLT133/T9 which wants a digital high or low to control the light output ... using the MPS A-14 with a pull-up resistor actually ends up inverting the digital 1's and 0's.

Pogo Data | MPS A-14 'Switch' | PLT133/T9 Vin (with pull-up resistor)

0V | open | +5V

1.8V | closed | 0V

In conclusion - there are options. If the glorified LED approach doesn't work, I can

(A) place two MPS A-14's in series to effectively un-invert the signal or

(B) look into using a PNP transistor instead of an NPN like the MPS A-14 (this would allow me to switch the +5VDC instead of the GND)
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
You definitely have a better grasp of this than me. Thanks for all your work and listening to my incoherent thoughts.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Fake it till you make it, right? :laugh:

So if the "glorified LED" trick doesn't work, I'll have to use this

Which will end up adding two more 10k resistors (as pull-ups) and one more MPS A-14.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] imaweasal:
Wow, nice save, I didn't see that either. Hopefully you'll find a cool guy at BB that will let you test it. Just say you'll probably buy the best one they have, but only if it works with what you've got.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Final Revision

Ok, I went to 4 different electronic stores and finally the nice guys at BestBuy allowed me to hook up to one of their speaker bars with a TOSLink cable. But nothing happened ... could be because

(1) the MPS A-14 transistors don't work like they should

(2) the speaker I hooked up to wasn't compatible

(3) possible loose wire somewhere

Anyways ... I've decided to scrap the MPS A-14 portion of the circuit and use a 74HTC125N non-inverting line buffer instead (smaller brother of the 74HCT541N that Sea Shadow has already tested and shown to work).

I'll go pick up the ICs tomorrow and be done with these fickle MPS A-14 transistors.

Revised and final schematic.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
You can definitely switch the mode of a pin after setup, so there is no real reason to use two pins for the middle pogo pin, as long as you keep track in the code of when you are sending and when you are receiving data. I have been working on a circuit like this but without the audio support (don't need audio out on my nightstand) and it is working with only one pin. I will post diagrams/code if wanted.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
So the attached schematic and sketch should work? I'm going to have to test this when I get home tonight.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
It looks to me like that should work. I don't have the switches on mine, and I have an LED for output. I'm at the office so I don't have my schematic handy, but here is my sketch. I threw together a quick schematic from memory in Inkscape.

EDIT: The thumbnail is black on a transparent background so you cannot see it in the preview. Sorry, I'm a noob at this site.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Nice sketch. I noticed you set the pinData to low as soon as you switch the pin to output mode. That's the only change I added to the sketch from my previous post.

I like the heartbeat LED feature you have ... but having a beating LED on my night stand would bug me to no end.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
I will probably not hook the LED up on that particular dock. I actually plan on making a handful of them for various places.

My next plan was to get the audio working, and I see you have done a good deal of effort on that end so I might check into that.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Please do. I'm still having some issues with the TOSLink. If I completely disconnect the ATTiny from the middle pogo and route it to the input of the buffer, it works. But with the ATTiny in the mix, the signal isn't strong enough to activate the buffer. Your single pin I/O solution *may* solve this issue but I need to do some breadboard testing tonight after work. I really hope it works - it's annoying to get so far and then hit a wall like this.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
From the data sheet, it seems the TOSLINK connector your are using requires a minimum of 2V for it to read the input as high, so that makes sense. I'm not sure why using the transistor as a digital switch didn't work out, though.

Is there any documentation about what voltages are safe to send to the phone on the middle pin? If we could send it something over 2V, I think we could simplify the circuit to just have the data pin connected to the TOSLINK connector. I am not really an expert at electronics, though, so don't ruin your phone with my ideas.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
It's working!!!!!! Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!!! ( :good: I've subsequently thanked every one of your posts on this thread :good: )

Basically, I removed the connection between pins 6 and 7 of the ATTiny85V-10PU and rewrote the program to only use pin 7 as the I/O pin. I've attached a revised sketch, updated schematic + general pcb layout.

I believe it's now working because in the previous program the output-only pin was set to low when not in use; and thus ended up pulling down the phone's SPDIF signal with it. By switching to a single I/O pin that only pulls low/high initially and then jumps to listen mode, we're able to avoid pulling the phone's SPDIF down to unreadable levels.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
Awesome! I was really hoping to find one of those combination mini TOSLINK/3.5mm TSR jacks so I could have both digital and analog on the same port (I'd have to add a DAC obviously), but I am not having any luck finding them. I wonder if it would work with the smaller transistors you were using originally with the one pin design.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Possibly - but since I don't have a DAC to test it with, I can't be sure. Sea Shadow confirmed that the buffer method works previously - that's why I'm using it.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] subvertz:
You gentlemen sound like you could benefit from a little kickstarter style capital injection.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] Mach3.2:
Actually, if you could make a working one, I may actually buy it from you if it is priced right(of course with profit for yourself)

Pressed from my Maguro
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
I don't know if there's enough demand for just a circuit that talks to the GNex via the pogo pins. Maybe if we produced a dock to go with it. Something that could pull double duty as either a car dock or desk dock & work through/around a case (I've got a few ideas on this).

Working circuit? Already done :D I may have a circuit or two up for sale in a few weeks - once I find the time to build them with the extra parts I ordered.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] Mach3.2:
Yep, the circuit.

Actually I would have to re-solder my pins if i buy the circuit.:(

Btw, if you do sell it, make it built to order, so people can somehow customize it?

Like in my situation, I won't be needing the TOSlink connector since i don't have anything that uses TOSlink.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
With regards to the resoldering - I switched over to jumper pins and female-female jumper wires when I started tinkering - it makes life soooo much easier!

I've made the board general and expandable so people can do whatever they want with it. There are jumpers at all the important points if you ever want to expand the capabilities further.

PICTURES! (Circuit v6_1)

In order to mount the TOSLink connector, it's necessary to carefully drill two 3/32" (I think ... working off memory here) holes as shown. The connector then clips in and stays there.

Here's the top of the board with everything but the ICs inserted.

Bottom with all the pins soldered, but no bottom jumper connections yet.

Bottom WITH the jumper connections.

Completed board with IC's inserted.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Do you mean something like this?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GP1FD310TP/425-1113-1-ND/702973

On a related topic, do you mind if I use your heartbeat code for pin 2 of my ATTiny85V? Now that I have a free pin, I figure I could throw that in for whomever may want it.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
I'm not sure if this is the right thing, but it looks like it is out of stock and full of lead which are things I want to avoid. I'm not sure I'm going to pursue the audio thing much further as I cannot imagine a situation where I would want to use my phone for audio in any place I would have a dock.

You may use it, but you'll have to put it on pin 0 or 1 as those are the only ones on the ATTINY85V that do PWM as far as I can tell.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Hmmm, digging through the datasheet I found this

Where PB3 is physical pin 2.

Either way, I'll have to test the code when I get back on Tuesday.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
All I know is that I hooked up LEDs to all 5 pins and ran the heartbeat code on them and only pins PB0 and PB1 worked. I couldn't make heads or tails of the data sheet so I tested it my own way.

As an aside, I am thinking that it would be cool if I could make it so the LED would only pulse when the phone is in the dock, but I'm not sure how I could tell if there is a phone connected. I am not really an expert with electronics, as I am a software developer by trade. Anyone have any input on how to accomplish such a thing? Ideally, it'd be awesome if I could tell if the phone was actually charging or done and have the LED behave differently depending on all those conditions, but I'm not sure how feasible that is.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] zuberio:
Argh, that throws a monkey wrench into my plans. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted. But someday I will have to play around with PWM for the heck of it.

Hmmm, off the top of my head you could add a hall effect sensor to the circuit to measure the magnetic field created by current flowing past the circuit and into the phone. Just put a few loops of wire around the sensor and connect one end to the wire to the source and the other to the phone. Magnetic field = phone connected and charging, no magnetic field = phone charged and in trickle mode or disconnected. You will have basically created an Ammeter. Heh, now this is something pin 2 is good for, lol.

[EDIT] Oh, there are neat little things called current sensors now. Spiffy!

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/ACS711ELCTR-12AB-T/620-1370-1-ND/2470594
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
Just ordered some of these and some micro usb plugs so I should be able to build my circuit next week sometime. I will post pictures when I have done so.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
What are you using for the actual pogo pins?
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] bentglasstube:
I have some J-4617B-3-30 from Yokowo.
[Samsung Galaxy Nexus] CNLiberal:
According to this those are only 2 pin? Am I missing something?
[Galaxy Ace S5830 General] dfreake:
how to mod theme using window??
[Galaxy Ace S5830 General] AnoopKumar:
Window? ??
[Galaxy Ace S5830 General] virajjjj:
You can always mod the theme via uot kitchen. Just Google it

PROUD TO BE "ACE"TEEMED

, AND ALSO YES HIT "thanks" IF I WAS OF ANY USE TO YOU....... :-\
[Galaxy Ace S5830 General] dfreake:
ok i use the uot kitchen but i want modded twlauncher..
[Galaxy Ace S5830 General] SpaceCaker:
7-zip extrac apk

Res-drawable mdpi

unwritten sentance
[Sony Ericsson XPERIA X10 Mini] Mashun99:
I recently tried downloading the ROM MOD BlackS v 2.0 but the links to the file wasn't working. Can someone tell me if the ROM has been discontinued, etc.

Link to the ROM is http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1217594

Btw it seems stupid to post in the Q&A section but since i don't have access to the development section I'm posting my query here.
[HTC Rezound] michaelbsheldon:
Have been on Gingerbread with HTC unlock.

Did 1 try of the Bear s-0ff, and it only booted to green Bear screen.

Did boot image install with PH98IMG in hboot, but it won't take

a recovery done with PH98IMG. Does not charge with any cable nor

does any computer see the phone. Fastboot does not go to fastboot-USB

on any other computer either. It will boot into the rom that was on it,

but not recovery.

Please suggest ideas to get USB to connect for charge or fastboot again.

Thanks.
[HTC Rezound] hgoldner:
Bump.

Similar problem here, although S-OFF, ICS leaked firmware, and Nils Business ICS 3.4 running fine. Phone charges from outlet, but cannot connect to PC, fastboot USB, charge mode or drive mode. Is it hardware?

If I try to connect and fail, then reboot, the connection dialogue comes up even if on the AC adapter, and if I then connect to PC, I get pulsing "USB Device Not Recognized" messages, but the "drives" don't connect (and the drivers *are* properly installed.)

For what it's worth, I *can* access the cards (internal and external) in Amon Ra 3.15; I *can* run a Nandroid and a restore. I can even run adb via wifi, I just can't connect to PC. However, after trying to do so, then rebooting, the handset things it's connected if I'm plugged into AC.

Really bizarre.
[HTC Rezound] trud9340:
I'm having this issue at home on my windows 7 pc, but at work, on my windows XP machine, it has no problem recognizing the device. At home it just says "Unable to recognize device". I tried using widgetsoid, but that didn't work either.
[HTC Rezound] hgoldner:
Don't know about anyone else, but for me, at least, it appears to be a hardware problem. Rolled back to stock 2.01 RUU and still unable to connect, and unit thinks it's connected when it's not. Rolled back forward and will learn to deal with it or return for warranty claim.

Dumped down the innertubes from my Rezound.
[HTC Rezound] michaelbsheldon:
no usb

Followup:

Con247 sent me suggestions, directions, and a flashable

to try and get my Zound to charge again. No luck.

I called VZN support, got a nice refurb, and am waiting to

see if old one is accepted or charged back to me.