yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Epic 4G Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] neonymbus:
Alrighty no more posts from me. My bad, I don't have time to read through 50,000,000 posts to make sure what I'm saying hasn't been said already. I'm new to all this and everytime I say something some nerd with a god complex gets on here and tells me how stupid I am. From now on I will read and not try to contribute.

My appologies
[Epic 4G Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] XxLostSoulxX:
well its on the 1st page of the dev section lol
[Epic 4G Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] KennyG123:
I was just trying to help you out and offer constructive criticism before someone came in and really flamed you. First thing you need to do is take [ROM] out of the title. The second thing you need to do is realize when people are trying to help you. Sorry if you took it the wrong way. Posting old news is not really contributing. There is a Development subforum for ROM postings. If you glance at the CM7 thread you will see what I mean. But reading certainly couldn't hurt. Thanks for posting and welcome.
[Epic 4G Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] TexasLTE:
CM 7.2.0 RC 1 is now available ;)

http://www.cyanogenmod.com/blog/cyanogenmod-7-2-0-rc1-is-upon-us?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter
[Xperia Arc General] kamelico:
** First of all Forgive my level of English but I am Spanish and I write by means of translators **

Good to all, I have a xperia Arc LT15i, I am root and I have the open bootloader, have tried to install cyanogenmod, but when I install to him the file boot and later the ROM by means of the recovery, the phone lights, but the animation of cyanogenmod continues loading the whole moment and occasionally it puts itself on the fund of screen but I touch the screen but he does not answer and again the fund of cyanogenmod goes out again for me turning. Thanks for your help it would like to be known if you might help me because I do not find the problem.

In the Spanish forums I have not been capable of solving the problem, that's why I come to the best forum of smartphones XDA!
[Xperia Arc General] KingWickedd:
What you need to do is to open the update zip on your computer and remove system/app/AntHalService.apk, this should fix your problem. :)
[Xperia Arc General] kamelico:
Thanks for answering. Correct, have I managed to solve it thank you very much for the help, and I will have to eliminate this file whenever I installed a custom firmware??.

Sorry, might they to indicate me where to unload the file so that me the wifi works correctly?. Thanks to all for his help!

Thanks, XDA!!
[Xperia Arc General] Riyal:
Or you could also do a factory reset from recovery everytime you install CM. :)
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Here are some pictures of the cap mod:

this is the open phone showing where the melfas touchkey circuit is:

View attachment 951774
[Fascinate General] yohobojo:
Awesome, thanks for doing this for all of us. Phantom key press is really annoying
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
the cap. yeah, that's a normal size pen to show scale

View attachment 951812

on the board

View attachment 951821

with notes

View attachment 951820

the antenna problem

View attachment 951822

close up showing touckey circuit. micro sd card for scale

View attachment 951834

my finger

View attachment 951836

back off

View attachment 951838

another view

View attachment 951837

BTW, I took these pictures with my son's fascinate :)
[Fascinate General] k_nivesout:
Wow, we're lucky to have someone as capable as yourself figure out this annoying issue! I've kinda kept up on your work, but seeing this breakdown and the photos is helpful in understanding the root cause of the problem. I do wonder sometimes how Samsung missed this issue in their testing, but at least we have custom kernels that implement your fixes and dramatically reduce the phantom presses!
[Fascinate General] sendan:
Uuuhm...You're an awesome human being. Holy crap. -_-

That's some amazing work, thanks!
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Yeah, it's crying shame that Samy couldn't fork over the extra penny to keep this problem from happening in the first place.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
wasn't just me. had help from other members here. I didn't even know where to start looking when I first started. It's so cool that people are willing to do the level of work that the devs here do without expecting anything back.
[Fascinate General] neh4pres:
Thanks so much for all the work, and the detail in your post. It is amazing the work everybody does here and the knowledge you pass on to us.

I do have a few questions

Would you mind sharing what kind off iron you used? is that the most bottom line on the board you soldered to? If so, did you have to scratch it or something first? Is it the farthest left line on the chip that was used? Do they make caps that size with leads coming of the 2 sides, and if so would that be a easier mod? Is there a positive and negative side to that capacitor?

I'm really thinking about doing this, if i decide to would you mind sending me 5 of your extra caps for a $10 donation?
[Fascinate General] AlgorithmX:
Ditto on the $10.00
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
I did the mod at my workplace under a microscope. I used a metcal (http://www.okinternational.com/product_soldering/mx500) soldering iron but you could use just about any low wattage iron with a really fine tip.

There's four pins on each side of the melfas chip. One end of the cap is soldered right to the interrupt pin which is the closest to the corner. the other end is connected to the ground side of C2 via a solder bridge.

View attachment 953824

I doubt that they make caps that small with leads on them. You could look. It's not hard to make the solder bridge. Remember the scale that were talking about here. That cap is 0.06 inches long by 0.03 inches wide. I wouldn't try to scratch the solder resist from the board because it's a flex circuit on top. Also, the cap is not polarized.

I bought a hundred of these caps for less than $6 including shipping. I'd feel terrible charging someone $10 for five. If you pm me your address I'll stick a couple in an envelope and send them. If you want to give away ten bucks, donate it to a charity like destiny rescue or UMCOR (http://new.gbgm-umc.org/umcor/about/financialinformation/).

Disclaimer:I've been working with parts this size for years and am pretty good at soldering. You risk dorking up your phone if you don't do this correctly. Only attempt if you are skilled at soldering. All information is presented "as is" and without warranty for fitness or use. Your mileage may vary. Void where prohibited, taxed or licensed.
[Fascinate General] IamUmpire57:
What is the easiest way to implement the band-aid software fix?

I am on CSpire so there are not many proven custom roms out there.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
The fix is in the kernel. I used the KGB kernel as the source for my build. You can download it from github and build your own. If you're running all stock (rom & kernel) you can mod the stock kernel.

I'm really not the expert here on choices. Maybe someone else could chime in.
[Fascinate General] CoffeeDregs:
Too tiny to solder so band-aid?

Excellent research, fix and documentation. I was going to follow the fix, but, when I finally got the phone disassembled, I saw that the bits were much too small for me to solder. And I'm an ex-electronics guy who's worked on surface mount stuff before, so I doubt amateurs will have much luck, either.

So the problem is that RFI is hopping onto the I2C and interrupt lines... Could we just block the RFI? Sure. A grounded piece of aluminum foil which covered the whole Melfus+lines area should do that. So I tried that. Worked great for the soft keys, but, for reasons not apparent to me, my phone would no longer do 3G (stuck in 1X). Perhaps because the big old piece of grounded foil in the middle of the 3G antenna soaked up too much signal?

How about not grounding the Aluminum foil? It wouldn't be tied to ground, so the potential of the Alu foil would wobble, but it might prevent enough RFI from reaching the I2C and interrupt lines.

I opened the phone back up and squished the Alu foil a bit so that it just covered the Melfus chip and the lines heading to the left, and so that it didn't touch what-I-think-is the ground plane right at the upper edge of the PCB. Now, the piece of Alu foil was a rectangle about 6mm wide and 3mm tall. Seems to prevent softkey misfires and my phone seems more responsive. Assuming the results hold, this is a 5 minute fix for the issue and it doesn't require anything more than a tiny screwdriver, a spot of aluminum foil and a moderately steady hand. Wish me luck!
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
That's great work. I tried that initially with some foil tape over the whole melfas chip without success. This was all documented in the github problem log but it got deleted when the ticket was closed out. In my basement where I was doing my testing, the signal strength is very low so it's a worst case scenario. Maybe the shield will work better if it's shaped just right. I'm not an RF guy so my shield was just a guess. Share some pics with us if you find a solid solution. The shield would be much easier to implement.
[Fascinate General] CoffeeDregs:
What was not successful about it? You still had phantom keypresses or you lost 3G?

Also, how did you ground the foil? I grounded it against what I thought was a ground plane. And I covered the entire L-shaped assembly (Melfas, lines and all).

[Stating the obvious...:] The idea of covering the Melfas chip and lines with foil assumes that the RFI is getting to the lines from above the chip+lines. The foil wouldn't do anything were the RFI hopping over from elsewhere. But AFAICT the top layer of the PCB is a ground plan and the signal lines head down into buried layers directly from the connector, so I'm not sure how else RFI could get the I2C lines except from in the module...

My un-grounded foil seems to be an improvement, but not a fix, so I might try grounded-foil again and try to figure out why it killed my 3G.

Good to hear that you have a microscope; I still have 20/20 vision as a 40yo, but that's a tiny little area!

I gotta say that I am wildly disappointed in Samsung. If a few electronics-savvy folks polking around the interwebs can find root cause and propose multiple fixes, it's shocking that Samsung won't acknowledge it, much less fix it. I'm due a phone upgrade and I'd love to get an SGS III, but I really don't trust Samsung.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Yeah, I used what I thought was a ground pad and covered pretty much everything on that little flex board that has the chip on it. It didn't stop the problem. Also, I had a bunch of dmesg stuff in the driver so I could see every time that there was a "missfire" vs just seeing the actual symptoms. A shield could theoretically fix the problem, I'm just not a RF engineer so I went with what I know. With the microscope, it's pretty easy to add the caps. Without, it'd be kinda hard. It probably only took me 20 minutes or so to do the last one I did. The good news it, the cap fix does the trick 100%. We've been running it on three phones without a problem for a few months now.

I totally agree on Samsung's failure. That design defect should have been caught pretty early in development. Maybe these guys have never heard of a Peer Review :(. It's even sadder if they knew it might be a problem but decided to risk it to save 1/2 cent per phone.

I understand the corporate mentality of denying a problem exists (iphone signal loss is a good example). If they admit it, then they have to fix it and that would be very costly. I'm sure when they started to have a problem they did a cost analysis and decided that losing N number of customers was cheaper than actually fixing all the bad phones.

What made it even worse was trying to find info on the phone design. Samsung was completely unresponsive when I contacted them to get data sheets on the CPU and other info on the phone. It's as if they didn't want me to solve the problem. Come to think of it, they probably didn't want me to. Solving it verifies that the problem exists and isn't just user error.

Anyway, now with my phone fixed and the excellent AOKP ROM and Glitch kernel, I love my fassy.
[Fascinate General] CoffeeDregs:
Yeah: dmesg would be lots better!

My foil status: decent. I'm getting a lot less buzzing, but I still do get **some** in low signal areas (my bedroom). So I'm happier.

Samsung's response: I'm not at all surprised. I used to be an FAE for Cirrus Logic and worked a lot with ARM processors (back in 2000-2003). I got ahold of some of Samsung's datasheets on their ARM processors and was staggered: the datasheet was about 4 pages long and was full of errors, inaccuracies or glossings-over. Our datasheets were 40 pages long and we had 200 page programming manuals available on the web. You got no love from Samsung unless you were looking to buy 5M chips.

Anyways, thanks for you research and help!
[Fascinate General] bouncer665:
I'll be giving that kernel a shot!
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Second cap

I finally got around to mod'ing our last phone. Actually, I was finally able to pry it from my teen's hands long enough to do the work. I think she sat home all afternoon and twitched.

Anyway, here's a pic of the two caps. One is on the interrupt line and the other is on the clock (or scl) line. I melted the insulation from a piece of real fine magnet wire to connect between the clock pin and the second cap. The other end of the second cap is just solder bridged to the same ground as the first cap.
[Fascinate General] neh4pres:
Nice work. Why 2 caps this time?
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
I ended up with two caps from my original research but I had taken the previously posted set of pics before I added the second one. It seems the RFI was getting on the clock line and creating random clock toggles along with random data. This was causing the melfas chip to turn the backlights on and off as well as generate a false interrupt. The main problem was the random interrupts caused by RFI, and the first cap on the interrupt line fixes that. The second cap on the clock line snuffs out those last little problems that only show up rarely in very low signal areas. Most of the time, when you get into an area with signal that low, the phone switches to 1X and you don't see the problem. But as long as the phone is open and the soldering iron is hot, it only makes sense to add both caps.
[Fascinate General] Ralstian:
Cap Values?

I'm constantly amazed by what the community here at xda comes up with. You guys are amazing. My wife just got a Galaxy s3 today and I'm annexing her old Fascinate to use as my primary phone/media player for when I'm at work. I just saw this post and it explains so much of what here strange issues were!

The question I have is, what capacitor is that exactly. I see that it is a 100 pF capacitor, but I'm searching around mouser's webpage, and I'm not sure which 100 pF cap to get, there are thousands of varieties! What do i need as far as voltage rating, tolerance etc. I have access so the necessary equipment at my workplace to safely perform this hardware fix, so I just need to go ahead and order the caps.

Thank you all so much, and keep up the kick*** work.

:good:
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
it's an X7R. TDK part number C1608X7R1H101K. But I bought a 100 of them from digikey when I got them. PM your address and I'll send you a few.
[Fascinate General] hudson_macbeth:
Awesome work, Bill! I've got 3 mesmerizes that all have this issue, so I may just have to do the cap mod myself. How much would you charge me for 8 of them? (In case my tweezers spit one or two across the floor.)
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
just pm your address.
[Fascinate General] longplaypg:
First a big thanks to Electric Bill and the folks who worked with him on this issue.

I have received my CAPS, but I cannot find my Intel Play USB microscope.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Play

I am going to move forward by purchasing an AGPtek USB Microscope for now.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U00AH2235

I am planning on doing the 2 CAP fix for now in hopes of permanently removing the phantom keys issue from my device. This should also stop those annoying short battery life times when the phantom keys go crazy, heat up the battery, and decrease my overall battery life. I know not all my battery issues are from the phantom keys, but definitely a few of them I have tracked.

I will post more once the microscope arrives.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Seems a shame to have to go out and buy a new microscope. It doesn't have to be very powerful. Maybe the local high school has one that they'd let you use for a day.
[Fascinate General] locoboi187:
This is a very interesting thread. Subscribed.
[Fascinate General] pcmanager:
Thanks for all your work troubleshooting this issue Bill. It's great to have skills like yours and share your discoveries with the community. I have a Samsung galaxy s2, plagued by the phantom presses. I have disabled the keys and use onscreen nav keys for a bandaid fix. I would love to try the cap fix, as I will be keeping my phone until may 2013. Took the phone to sprint and they claimed liquid damage... The indicator sticker hadn't even changed color. PM sent. Thanks buddy!
[Fascinate General] longplaypg:
The new microscope has 8 leds that light up the area nicely. The boy and myself will get some good use out of this little unit anyways. :)

I am doing a pre check list today and planning my final attack on this issue.

In your first mod (1 cap) you have a rev1.1 r.b45 circuit using a MFS 5mj44 ???85 chip.

In your second mod (2 cap) you have a rev1.0 r.aa2 circuit using a MFS 5mj24 1041a chip.

My unit has a rev1.0 r.ab2 circuit using a MFS 5mj16 10312 chip.

Based on your previous 2 phones and my phone I should have no issues, but to feel safe I want to confirm the pin outs match before I proceed. I will do a little internet searching to see what I can find before I dive in blind.

Attached are a few pictures I have grabbed so far with the new microscope. I so far see I need a better stand and might want to break it open. It seems to me the camera lens inside needs to be rotated or design a special stand to deal with the rotated lens.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
good catch on the different part markings. The MFS is probably melfas. the last numbers are likely the date code. I sent an email to Melfas and asked for the data sheet for the MFS-5080 part
[Fascinate General] longplaypg:
sounds good I will not harass them with a 2nd email requesting the same then :)

I have never soldered this small before and decided to try a few practice runs to get a little familiar with things. Going to break for lunch and give myself a little relaxation. Here is a real nice picture of the chip and surrounding pins that you can use to improve your documentation with, that doesn't contain the caps yet.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
for some reason I can't view any of the images that you've posted
[Fascinate General] longplaypg:
I can not post outside links. I thought attachments would work since I could see them. Just visit my skydrive for now.

skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=ECA7231EE084EB06!461
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
turns out it's not you, it's me..... or really the firewall here at work is blocking the images.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
don't let that flex circuit get too hot or the solder resist will come off the top of those traces and the copper will be exposed to shorting out the parts that you are mounting on top of them.
[Fascinate General] hhp_211:
what is a good solder iron temp for this,,, although I highly doubt I'll ever be doing it,,,I love to 'think' I have the knowledge ;)
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
found a couple of places to get replacements for the touchkey assy. ebay had a couple of listings. Just go there and search for "Samsung i500 Galaxy S Fascinate Front Home Menu Touch Keys Flex Cable". I'll prob order 1 just to check it out.

repairsuniverse.com is also selling them.
[Fascinate General] longplaypg:
Ok real life took over and will continue through this weekend :)

At this time I took a few more snapshots and some rough measurements. I have a hakko703 with a hakko907 iron. I believe my LB is just too big at this point for the small parts just trying to do some off board soldering. I have decided to add like pigtails to these parts so when I get ready to solder on that flex board I will have 3 small soldier points. It might be easier to do the soldier bridge, but I wanted to stay away from that flex circuit for now. I will check out your source and maybe buy a spare :)

Going to look for a smaller tip for the iron and see if things are easier.

All of these pictures have rough measurements in millimeters displayed on them.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Too much heat on those caps will damage them. I cleaned the solder off the gnd side of C1 and put the cap down next to it with one end up against the pin on the ic. I put some flux on the cap/ic joint and applied heat to the end of the cap. As soon as the solder on the ic melted, I pushed the cap up against it using the tweezers. Bridging the gnd side to C1 is easy.
[Fascinate General] longplaypg:
Yea I bet these little things cannot take much heat at all before they no longer have a proper capacitance.

Digging around a little bit there is 1 size smaller radius conical style tip for my iron. I currently have R0.2 and I can get like a R0.15. It doesn't sound like much but I might feel more comfortable using it.

I like this method you presented for the first cap and the only worry I had was during the slide creating a "cold solder joint".

This week I got my phone up and operational without the modification while I do a little planning and ordering. I already shot 2 of these off the table once, but I made sure to carefully locate them. I still have the other 2 untouched for now until I get more comfortable working with these sizes.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
As it turns out, my daughter fell on her fascinate and broke the screen. I'd be willing to extract the touchkey assy if anyone wants it.

Also, I found a place that sells the assy new on ebay for $8. I might be willing resell the new ones with the mod added if enough people are interested. I'd have to make enough from the sales to pay for some kind of microscope. And you'd have to swap out the assy which means opening up the phone.
[Fascinate General] pcmanager:
Hi Bill, I receive the caps you mailed me and I appreciate that. I have the sprint samsung galaxy s2. Will that touch key assembly and modification fit my phone? If so I would be willing to pay to have you ship me 1 with the modification already installed thank you very much for your time.
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
Does the S2 have the same problem with the phantom keypress?
[Fascinate General] electric bill:
I think this might be the part for your phone:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Epi...218157?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item35bfa0442d
[Fascinate General] pcmanager:
Yes exact same problem with phantom key presses in low signal areas. I have bandaid fix, disabled menu and search keys in the generic.kl key layout file... In system/usr/key layout. Then I use button savoir from market.

I am going to be using this phone for at least the next 6 months. I would really like to use the menu buttons on the bottom of my phone without the Phantom presses. I think your fix should work on my sprint Samsung galaxy s 2 epic 4 G touch. If you also think it will work I would be willing to purchase that part and have it shipped to you so you can install the caps? If you're willing to do that send me a pm and we can talk about price and shipping address. I Thanks!