yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
The charger that you are showing in that photo only has a 2 conductor cable.

To make that work, you'd have to short out at the other end where there are all 4 conductors.

To agree with everyone else, yes, shorting D- and D+ is the dumb charger way.

You can also hack the kernel driver for the charging system.

You can also just control the charging circuit in software.

When using a device in host mode and charging at the same time you obviously can't short anything.

Higher charging is needed because half the current may be actively used by the device.

On my Nook Touch, this sets the charging current to full:

echo 1500000 > /sys/devices/platform/bq24073/force_current

This requires root and will probably not work on your device.

Still, there probably is something on your device that works too.

Below is a screenshot of my current-setting app.
[Hardware Hacking General] anmont:
Thank you for this thread. I was wiring a solar cell to charge my iphone 4S, and shorting pin D+ and D- allowed the phone to recognize the supplied current. I do realize it is a bit off topic, but I thought I would make the comment in case some other bored person was looking for the information.

In relation to the nook simple touch, I am unsure as to what other modifications you have made from the stock rom, but to my understanding, in stock the system devices information will get overwritten every time there is a battery state change. More importantly, the 500 mah default charger was selected intentionally even at a time when there were larger choices available. While this may be more useful on the nook color, I would suggest that this is harmful to your battery.

--excellent post--
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
Your concerns for charging the battery too fast are valid.

The cheap milliampmeter that I have only goes to 200 mA.

The four ranges of the regulator (0, 0.1, 0.5, 1.5) are really only the numerical break points.

When I set it to "100 mA", it barely draws 30 mA off the USB.

"500 mA" gets me about 150 mA (including what the board is using).

"1.5 A" gets me something more than 200 mA, but not a lot more.

The battery is a 1536 mAh Li ion.

I usually use the "500mA" setting.

No, the Nook doesn't change the charging value randomly.
[Hardware Hacking General] OptoChip:
I can't thank the OP enough for this post. I've always wondered why the 1Amp chargers I've bought never charged my phone like the Samsung charger did unless I used the Force AC Charger option in my Kernel for my Galaxy Nexus.

I remember first charging my 2100mAh Extended Battery from dead for the first time using my 1A charger, and it took over 3.5 hours to get close to ~80%. Just did this mod to that same exact charger, and my Gnex was fully charged within 2.5 hours flat.
[Hardware Hacking General] Flowyk:
it makes phone to think that official charger is connected and making the device to be more vulnerable

... what it will do if I have 1200mAh charger and it uses only 800?
[Hardware Hacking General] Meep70:
Nothing bad will happen. It will only use what it is capable of using.

If you think of electricity like you do water, and the wires like you do hoses, and the battery like a bucket, it helps to understand the concept.

Voltage is like water pressure. Voltage is how hard the electrons are being pushed down the wire.

Amperage (measured here in milliAmps) is how FAST the electrons are traveling down the wire, similar to how much volume of water is flowing in a hose. (mAh would be the measure of how much can flow during the course of an hour).

Think of the 800mAh limit on charging on your phone like a regulator that only allows the electrons to flow through at a maximum rate of 800mA per hour.

At the rate of 800mAh, you can fill a 1600mAh battery in two hours, theoretically, as that is how fast that particular hose can fill up that bucket to its maximum level.
[Hardware Hacking General] bw86:
Awesome.

bookmarked.
[Hardware Hacking General] Lanchon:
charge current regulation

so, from what i read on this thread plus common sense it seems that the USB charger standard dictates the D-/+ short plus some sort of voltage rampdown with increased current demand. that way the device will draw as much current as the charger can output or the device can use, whichever is smaller, and achieve current regulation at an optimal level without digital signaling.

ok, fine. i got a nexus one and have an app called battery calibration that will display the current flow to/from the battery. with it i check my new chargers to see how much power they really output (up to the max that the N1 will use).

now im selling it and only have samsungs left: cappy, nexus S and galaxy nexus. are there apps to monitor currents on these phones? what about apps to set current regulation targets? (without kernel mods)

thanks!
[Hardware Hacking General] Sharings:
Yeah
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
Thanks to OP, again for yet another Galaxy S tip. I chose the electrically equivalent approach for a dedicated cable that I use with a Griffin powerjolt duo cig lighter adapter that is rated 1A at 5V for each USB port. with mod, cappy reports ac charging.

Reading Samsung paper on battery charge control design, there is no way the cable mod, or TRusselo's, will damage the phone or battery.

Sent via XDA from Captivate GB I897.UCKK4 rooted
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
providing actual battery current reading is optional per the 2011 Samsung .doc I am reading. afaik, there is no way to read the actual battery current in a Captivate.

here's a link to the 2 MB pdf from a Samsung engineer on mobile battery charge control for android

http://db.tt/4AOpPFVw

Sent via XDA from Captivate GB I897.UCKK4 rooted
[Hardware Hacking General] awektmscandal:
i own this charger..but stil cant used..:(
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
did you set the ampmeter in seriez with the battery?

btw, the lower current values are expected if you are reading the flow to a partially charged battery.

Sent via XDA from Captivate GB I897.UCKK4 rooted
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
No, I measured the current into the USB connector using a short break-out cable that goes through banana plugs.

(The switch goes to the ID pin to turn on and off OTG.)

I'd like to be able to measure actual battery current but I don't want to screw up the teeny-tiny battery cable.

I tried to see if I could measure actual device consumption by disconnecting the battery, but it doesn't power up.
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
in the picture, it looks like you are in parallel with the charger, not in series.

series:

1. charger red to ampmeter (either red or black).

2. ampmeter (black or red) to usb red.

3. charger black to usb black direct, no connection to meter at all.

is that how you wired it for charger current measurement?

Sent via XDA from Captivate GB I897.UCKK4 rooted
[Hardware Hacking General] Renate:
Well, it just looks like it's in parallel. It's in series.

The red banana plug wire is connected to vbus on the socket.

The black banana plug wire is spliced to the wire coming from the micro USB connector that was attached to the socket.
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
thanks. I can't belive the current is as low as your readings suggest. seems like a faulty current meter, unless you are testing with a fully charged battery or have a wiring fault that increases the resistance.

Sent via XDA from Captivate GB I897.UCKK4 rooted
[Hardware Hacking General] Flowyk:
if you have root you can use voltage control app ... can set charging current for charger misc and usb

when set to 450 it charges longer (1,2A charger original for nokia)
[Hardware Hacking General] TRusselo:
You need a modified kernel for the voltage control app to work
[Hardware Hacking General] awaldeck:
Great!. save some bucks, rather than buying an official charger!
[Hardware Hacking General] Ruuhkis:
Interesting! Too bad I am too afraid to try :l
[Hardware Hacking General] merovig:
thanks a lot, gonna try out soon by myself :-)
[Hardware Hacking General] gndmstr:
Very informative. This is definitely considered 'secrets' of success :)

Since I use my non Samsung chargers for many things, I opted to use the cable approach. I cut one of the many cables I have around and tied the white/green together on the phone side of the cable leaving the charger side open "just in case". I have the cable well marked and it works well.

Thank you!

Chuck
[Hardware Hacking General] esc0rtd3w:
nice tutorial. thanks :D
[Hardware Hacking General] SlamberGamer:
What wil happen if i mess up? will my samsung burn out? this is dangerous woot
[Hardware Hacking General] TRusselo:
its a really simple mod, but if you dont feel comfortable doing it, dont.
[Hardware Hacking General] tjb433:
I would like to know if this is true for the Galaxy s3? would love to get AC charging mode in my car
[Hardware Hacking General] TRusselo:
read the thread.. it is a standard.
[Hardware Hacking General] tjb433:
I read the thread, it is a standard that is defined for galaxy phones as of last year, this phone is less than 2 months old. MHL was a standard, but they changed that so who is to say they haven't changed the charging modes as well. They could have grounded one of the pins, or connected a resistor between the 2 pins to trip AC charging.

Edit, nevermind, i found the info i need, turns out they did not change it, which is nice to know.
[Hardware Hacking General] TRusselo:
it is a standard of USB devices.
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
Can this be applied to the original charger? Cause it takes 6 he's to charge.
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
View attachment 1287911Can you tell me which is the data for this charger?
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
please show a photo of the other side of the board.

you could also use a volt ohm meter to test for continuity between usb connector middle pins and the solder points on the board.
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
I connected the 2&3 pins(jumper and solder it) it comes to square one) I'm using original cable data + charging. I'm getting a 2100 mah double usb charger and going to mod it.
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
looks like you got it.

you probably want to put electrical tape or some kind of insulation, like rtv silicone, around that jumper wire.
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
It's only 400 mah charging took 6 hrs cause it's only 400 mah. just buy a 2000 mah charger going to mod It.
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
This is the latest charger only SGD 21
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
I thought of soldering the two (red)parts together or shorting 2 wires as my post before .If you all notice the third pic. shows that it can charge two device Ipad or tab and phone.So I think the one that was factory soldered (Bottom)is the one for Ipad / tab or above 2000 mah device.
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
yup, you got it.

You may want to leave the ports as they are. some devices can't take advantage of higher current.
[Hardware Hacking General] Ttblondey:
Haven't done the soldering ,try charging my s3 to the top port it doesn't charge Charging to the bottom port it charges as per normal.Thought of soldering as per planned , worried that I can't charge device below 2000 mah like my HTC TYTN 2.

Update:

Top port use for charging mp3 player,will try charging using bottom port when i get home. Charging my S3 . using the bottom port is much faster it seems double the time than using the adapter at the first post.
[Hardware Hacking General] lazarevicc:
thanks :)
[Hardware Hacking General] rooter2000bka:
Thank for share!
[Hardware Hacking General] Fly-n-High:
Limits?

From the perspective of limits it sounds like it open ended. Obviously a pc will only put out a limited amount of current because of design. Focusing on chargers or DC Sources is key. With a typical phone charger the circuit will only deliver power to its rating (assuming RMS).

Because the resistance needs to change (Kernel/ROM mods) for more to be drawn.

The technology behind the battery chemistry is the key. We can mod sw/fw for any amount so mAh of the battery is the limit. One can take a power supply (potential source of unlimited current) and connect directly to the changing circuit of the phone (which eliminates wire gauge concerns).

Heat is the enemy of electronics, so keep it kool and it will improve the design and make it safer.

In the end Lithium Polymer based cells have limits like every battery before it........
[Hardware Hacking General] Jaytronics:
I wanted to shed some light on this subject. I have a TRAXXAS REVO3.3 that I converted over to electric. I did a ton of research on lithium batteries. Specifically lithium polymer. But also on lithium ion. There is a constant when charging lithium batteries. You can always charge them at a 1C rate. For example, if your battery is a 1500mAh battery. You can safely charger it at 1.5Amps. Giving you a 1hr charge to full. Now, when you charge a battery, the chemistry inside is the resistance to the charge yet it holds the charge. With resistance comes heat. And heat to lithium is a catalyst to oxidation. This is what shortens the life of lithium greatly. Now, charging that same 1500mAh at .8Amps or 800mAh is charging it at under the 1C rate. This equals less heat and greatly prolongs the life of the battery. But the chemistry of these batteries has and is changing.

Now granted my REVO uses lipo. The chemistry in it allows me to charge the 5A or 5000mAh battery at 3C. That is cutting the charge time to one third of an hour. Because it can charge at 15A or 15000mAh. Do I do that? No, even though I can I do not. At $89 per battery and I have two. I want them to last as long as they can. I usually charge at the 1C rating.

So, modifying the kernels to charge at higher rates is OK with in obvious lithium chemistry limits. But you have to take into factor the discharge rate the phone takes up.

Also remember, heat not is, but can be bad for these batteries. It is good to the extent that the battery needs to be above a certain temp for the molecules to be able to move freely and except the charge properly. But bad at higher temps because oxidation starts to happen at a greatly increased rate. We also have to take into consideration the ambient temp. That is the outside of the batteries temp. If it is summer time and blazing hot outside and you decide to mount your phone on the dashboard or in a window mount. The sun will beat down on that phone like there was no tomorrow. If the phone is black. Then it will be much worse much faster. Try charging the phone then at any rate. The batteries life is most certainly going to have its life expectancy halved or greater. On top of that the phones usually go into heat protection mode and shut down and stop charging all together. Any way I just wanted to share this little bit of info. I will post some links to battery studies when I find them.

By the way, thanks for the tip on this mod for the faster charging.

One other thing that I forgot to mention. Unlike RC car batteries, cell phone batteries have circuits built into the head of them. I am assuming that is for protection when charging them. Not sure if that needs to be taken into consideration though. I doubt it. But it is more info to dissect.

[Edit] I remember. This circuit on the battery is a discharge protection circuit. It prevents the battery from going below the lowest voltage threshold.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries

Just a cool bit of info.

http://m.green.autoblog.com/2012/08...ng-tech-could-refill-li-ion-battery-in-a-min/
[Hardware Hacking General] crash613:
I read this thread from start to finish... I have a Verizon Samsung Galaxy Note 2. I tried the charger that came with it, and i get the Charging (AC)... i plugged it into computer and get the Charging (USB).

I tried a different power cord. It is one that I bought online from an overseas company in china. It says "samsung" on it, but it only cost 2 dollars, so i don't know.. But it, too, reports AC charging. So my question is, does anyone know if this has been fixed for the note 2? will any, ole, charger work for me?

EDIT: just tried a Verizon branded car charging cable that we've had for over 2 years. It reports AC charging too. I am wondering if i am really getting AC charge, or if the problem doesn't apply to the note 2 and/or the cables i have
[Hardware Hacking General] melvinchng:
I think it has been fixed.. Since note 2 takes 2 hours + to charge from 0-100

Accidentally sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
[Hardware Hacking General] story:
I have the same charger.

It was shorted already. I used 2 different cable and 2 different wall plug and it gave different mah.

Both cables has data.
[Hardware Hacking General] FoneFill:
If it is a non-Apple charger, then it should follow the BC 1.1 or later charging spec to inform the phone that it's connected to a DCP (dedicated charging port), and "allowed" to draw more than 500mA.

A DCP does so by shorting the data lines Dp and Dm (with a resistance of 200ohms or less) as the OP suggested.

-Charles

FoneFill Restaurant and Hospitality Phone Chargers
[Hardware Hacking General] endib:
i've read this thread from the first to the last page, my question is..., can i apply this MOD to enable full speed charging on my Samsung Galaxy Tab P1000 ?
[Hardware Hacking General] Flowyk:
Probably it will work but if u don't know what are u doing then don't do it
[Hardware Hacking General] GLeonio:
Thanks:good:
[Hardware Hacking General] buptwugh:
THANKS good technology
[Hardware Hacking General] Joseph.S:
Samsung Galaxy S2

I want to try this Mod but I have a Duracell wall charger. I opened it up and don't understand the circut.

Anyway.. here's what I've got.

Charger:

Duracell wall charger that has 2 USB ports. One is rated at 1A and the other rated at 2.1A.

Phone:

Samsung Galaxy S2.

Here are the phone details:

Image can not be displayed due to board restrictions.

Here's the circuit board.

Image can not be displayed due to board restrictions.

I have more images if you need them.

Currently it will only charge the battery at 470ma. Even in the 2.1A USB port.

I would rather not cut into the USB cable and mess up my data transfer.

This phone is NOT rooted.

Can you help me out?

where do I put the jumper?

Thanks in advance.

(Gahh...sorry about that it won't let me post images yet...darn spammers...)

You will have to use your expertise to see them I guess.

Here ya go...

i36.tinypic.com/2iax07c.jpg

i37.tinypic.com/vd22s6.jpg
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
Post images to server, not inks. Here is your first image

Or if link, your second image,

sent by the scare crow, tin man, and cowardly lion on the yellow brickfree cm10.1 road.
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
Mod: if you only want one high output, then only bridge one of the circled pairs, or do both bridges if preferred.

The max safe rate will be set by the pm chip in the phone. Usually, this is about 0.6 *C/h, where C is capacity. Example, battery @ 1500 mAh * 0.6/h = 900 ma = 0.9 A.

So, if really doesn't matter which port you bridge, unless you expect the phone to draw more than 1 A.

sent by the scare crow, tin man, and cowardly lion on the yellow brickfree cm10.1 road.
[Hardware Hacking General] Joseph.S:
I believe it was because I have not posted 10 times before I posted an Image..At least that's what it told me..

Probably defense against spam bots.

I was unaware that I could upload images as attachments I will look for that option. :good:

Thanks! I was wondering if that was the correct location. I saw the 4 pins below and wanted to make sure I was not going to fry something and didn't want to guess.

Eventually what I would like to do is manage my charging a little more precisely.

(Changing batteries 3 times a day with a ballistic case is pretty aggravating.)

For instance..

When in heavy use, such as using the navigator with GPS, the phone draws about 500 ma +/- 50ma. This discharges the battery even with the car charger attached. I would like to make the car charger charge at 1500ma so the supply of power can give full charge to the battery while under full load from the GPS. But would like it to only draw 1000 or perhaps 1100ma when the GPS is off.

(I understand that the phone limits this charge rate to 1A and I would like to bypass that because Samsung didn't predict how I would using this phone very well...)

When I want to charge it over night I would simply trickle charge it with my data cable in the USB port of my computer.

Also, with the AC charger in the image I would like the 1A side to be limited to 1A max while the other side can freely charge at 2.1A when necessary and manage heat and power manually. Not that I would be using the 2.1 all the time but it would be nice to have every once in a while while I am surfing the web , watching videos and running GPS all at the same time.

(Believe it or not I do that every morning for about 3 hours and it plays hell on my ability to use the phone the rest of the day.)

Again, I understand I would have to make a software modification somehow. Sooo...

Do you know how to reprogram the charging limits within the phone to make this possible?

Does the phone have to be rooted to do this? If so. how do I root my phone? :cool:

Thanks for your help!
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
The charging limits are based on battery safety. Fire, severe burns, and explosion are probable results, if you succeed in overriding safety limits. There is also a thermal safety built into the battery itself that should prevent these problems, but then all you are doing by pushing to the thermal limit is shortening battery life and reducing its capacity.

if the phone is on, in use with a low battery, and you connect the charger, it can draw phone load plus the max charging rate. But if you do that, then be aware that it will drive the battery and phone to higher temperatures.

Also note that the battery will only take the maximum current when it is fully discharged. Example, when the battery is 80% charged, the current is typically a small fraction of the max. That is a good thing. Charger circuit typically omits Li phone batt charging voltage to 4.2 volts.

Any battery, expecially, Li battery, is essentially a controlled chemical explosion that forces the energy though an electrical load- your phone is the load in this case.

For your own sake, don't mess with the charging and capacity controls in the phone or the battery.

sent by the scare crow, tin man, and cowardly lion on the yellow brickfree cm10.1 road.
[Hardware Hacking General] Joseph.S:
Bridges Complete

Thanks for the info. I do understand the risks involved however I believe because of the way I use the phone I can manage the battery better this way. I can control heat buildup simply by unplugging the phone because when I have it charging like that I will not ever be leaving it unattended. If it gets hot I can unplug it when the heat alarm goes off, or when it just feels like its heating up and either plug it into the lower charge rate side or just unplug it entirely. I am very attentive and involved with my phones operation always.

Here is where I am at so far.

Bridges complete:

Testing.........
[Hardware Hacking General] laughingT:
Looks like you got it.

Think you are confusing total draw versus charge rate. The pm chip limits flow to battery, not total flow to phone, which will be whatever phone uses plus charge flow to battery, in your example, 500 ma plus battery charge rate. Keep in mind 50% charge battery won't draw a full 1 amp, because the voltage is getting closer to 4.2 supply voltage. It's physics, not the software limit, that is causing that to happen.

FYI, I use 45°C battery temperature as my alarm limit.

PS no need to quote previous message in a thread when there are no posts in between. It just uses server space and makes thread harder to read. Thks.

sent by the scare crow, tin man, and cowardly lion on the yellow brickfree cm10.1 road.
[Hardware Hacking General] Joseph.S:
I am using 110° F

Not sure how that converts to C.