yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] fotorex:
Hi rdcamps,

You can try the following two options:

Which position does your threeway switch (AP/Wisp/3G) have. Have you tried it in position 3G?

What happens if you connect and switch on your 7D first and then the TP-Link router?

regards,

Frank
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] rdcamps:
1. Frank, it is always in 3g/4g position because dslrcontroller documentation says it will not work in ap or wisp mode. I assume I have no problem with that because I am able to create the adhoc network and connect my htc one to the created DSLRCONTROLLER network. Come to think of it, I might try the other positions and see what happens.

2. I have tried every conceivable connection sequence to no avail. Do you have a similar setup .... 7d with dslr controller and tplink? Is it working on your setup?

Thanks,

Russ

---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 PM ----------

Hey Frank and others who have htc 1 (M7). Good news, I got it to work just now. I really don't know how I did it but when I connected just a while ago ... voila ... it worked. I did the sequence you just suggested frank and it worked. However, I also did the same sequence before but to no avail. I also tried the other modes AP and WISP but failed then went back to the 3g setting and it just started working .... go figure. Well, bottom line is, I am happy it is working. Wireless is so much more versatile than having to use a wire OTG USB. Thanks for all the help.

Russ
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] rdcamps:
dslrcontroller with lightroom

Now that I have my HTC One working, I have another question:

Is it possible to integrate dslrcontroller with lightroom? Or is there a way of files wirelessly via dslr to lightroom 4 in your mac or pc using the "watched folder" feature of lightroom?
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Kalma:
Would be nice to have this app work also as lightning and motion triggering? :p
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] fotorex:
Hi,

this could possibly work with a CF Card Adapter in conjunction with an EyeFi SD Card.

http://www.amazon.com/SDXC-SDHC-UDMA-Speed-Adapter/dp/B007FF4BNA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1388160098&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=High+Speed+CF+Adaptercard

regards,

Frank
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Frendzleech:
thanx.......
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] rdcamps:
wireless file transfer

Yeah. That will sure work with the eyefi. I have tried the old eyefi's before with the CF/SD adapter but it was too slow and not all adapters will work. I have not tried since then. However, what I had in mind is to have an elegant solution like what they have with the camranger. Wireless transfer is a built in feature in the camranger software. All you need to do is set the "watched folder" in lightroom. Of course the camranger is $300 while the dslrcontroller is only $8.00 but I always thought that the camranger is way overpriced. It practically uses the same hardware as the dslrcontroller. So in my opinion, if the feature could be added to the dslrcontroller app, many photographers will be willing to pay a bit more than current $8.00 price.

regards,

Russ
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Markus64:
DSLRController 1.05 + CR-919 Android Stick

A friend and i need help.

We bought two CR-919 TV-Sticks (Vers. 1, one antenna), flashed and configured them like the guide describes.

The Sticks are working well, we configured DSLRController WiFi-Stick, but unfortunately we are not able to generate a hotspot at all.

If we start the hotspot under /more/devices by hand, the sticks generated a hotspot, but after a reboot nothing happend.

We've tested all possible Parameters, but we are not able to get a automatic Hotspot running.

Please excuse my bad english. I hope someone here can help us.

Best Regards,

Markus
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] msatter:
Camranger uses the same hardware as DSLRcontroller does but with a different own firmware. With Camranger you pay for the hardware and are able to use the free software supplies by Camranger. With DSLRcontroler you have to buy the software and the third party hardware on which you can put the free frimware to be able connect DSLRcontroller and the hardware.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] rdcamps:
Yes, I know that. What I was talking about was the possibility of adding a file transfer feature on the dslrcontroller like the one in the camranger software. Adobe lightroom seamlessly integrates with the camranger software. I would assume that many photographers would appreciate this feature and will be willing to pay a little extra (over the current price of $8.00). How about you? Would you not like to be able to shoot wirelessly tethered and then your files are automatically transferred to a folder in your computer (also wirelessly)? I don't know how complicated it would be to add this feature but I am sure the experts at chainfire are capable of doing it :)
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] marcbkk:
Unfortunately I just had a bad experience with DSLR Controller's Auto Focus which resulted in a bunch of shots from a commercial shoot I did being out of focus.

In fact, normally I don't use DSLR Controller to focus at all. I usually focus first with the camera, lock the focus, and then go to live view on DSLR Controller and start shooting.

But this time I accidentally touched the screen where the subject was standing and then DSLR Controller said it was focusing and then it said it was focused on that spot. So I didn't bother to check it and figured it was OK. It was only later after I got the shots onto my computer that I realized the shots were out of focus.

I am using the 5D Mark II, which only has 9 focusing points and perhaps the app was trying to focus in an area where the camera does not have a focusing point. I am not sure how the auto focus in the app is designed to work, but it should only offer to focus the camera in places where the camera offers a focusing point I would think. I would also assume that the app is not able to focus in places where the camera is not usually able to focus on its own.

Anyway, such is life. Some people might have good results with the app's auto focus and like using it. But I only used it that one time accidentally and unfortunately it was a big fail.

I would appreciate it in the next release of the app if the auto focus function could have an option to be disabled in the settings so that if someone like me doesn't want to use it then it can be turned off completely. This would prevent this problem from occurring again.

Cheers...
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] fotorex:
Hi Russ,

ok, I didn't know, that EyeFi ist too slow.

Just two thoughts in regard to the "watched folder" option in LR:

We have the TP-Link WiFi router, an adroid device with the DSLR Controller App and a laptop (PC odr Mac) with LR running on it.

1. DSLR Controller can be set in its options to store the pictures on the android device. Would it somehow be possible to share this android folder over the Tp-Link WiFi (maybe I found a solution -> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.funkyfresh.samba) so that we are able to set this folder in LR as beeing watched or even better adjust this folder to a shared folder from the (Win/Mac) Laptop.

2. Is it possible to tell the TP-Link via DSLR Controller Options to send the pictures to the laptop (MAC or IP address) instead of sending them to the android device.

regards,

Frank
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] rdcamps:
Hi frank, thanks for the info. I have not explored the options on dslrcont yet so I was not aware that files could be saved on the android device. That is neat. However, raw files are quiet large and you will run out of space in the device. Your 2nd solution where u suggested telling the tplink to directly send files to a folder in a computer is a much elegant solution. This would be very useful in wedding and events photography.

Regards, Russ
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] msatter:
You were most likely in liveview focus mode and then contrast focus is used which does not use fixed focus points and it can be on any spot in the picture. Disabling focus can be achieved by flipping the focus switch to manual on the lens. Alternative you can tap the AF button at the left top of the DSLRcontroller screen and it will show R-MF. In this mode you will get of buttons to change focus but no auto focus.

Tip, press long the button showing the aperture and you will see display the depth of field when there is enough light.

An other tip, before going to do a shoot get to know every aspect of your equipment and working of it!

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 PM ----------

I can use my iPad with Shuttersnitch for that which is able to do that through a FTP. I use my iPad to check/browse the pictures myself and for the models are also very pleased by seeing their pictures in real-time. I dumped the Eye-Fi and have now a Transcend SD-wifi card.

I won't recommend to transfer RAW files because WiFi is not up to speed for that yet.

Secondly you are asking Chainfire to make the TP-link universal usable and is that also in the interest of Chainfire who is making the DSLRsoftware?
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] marcbkk:
That is impossible without a manual for DSLR Controller.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] msatter:
I don't think that a manual is obligate with apps because of their simple interface. However Chainfire has written about this particular topic on his website, link: http://dslrcontroller.com/download.php

Text:

You can tap anything on screen that looks like a button to switch that option or bring up the configuration dialog for that option. If an option is not available, it will not look like a button.

Additionally, after you have used an option, or you tap-and-hold instead of just tap an option, it will become highlighted. The highlighted option is configurable using the volume up and volume down buttons.

Auto focus is done when you tap the liveview image, if auto focus is supported on your camera model and the current camera mode. If you see AF in the top-left corner of the screen, auto focus is supported. If you see R-MF only incremental focusing may be supporting using the arrow buttons. If your lens is set to MF, focusing will not work at all. Tapping the liveview image again during auto focus will cancel the auto focus. Tapping the liveview image is comparable to half-pressing and half-releasing the shutter button on your camera.

When the camera is focused using auto focus, you will enter focus mode. This disables all buttons aside from the shutter button. Changing any options is not possible in this mode. Using the shutter button however will skip automatic refocusing of the image. Tap the liveview image to exit focus mode.

Me again:

Secondly more information about manual focusing, link 2: http://dslrcontroller.com/guide-rmf_focuspull.php

How do we come there by reading the first posting which states: We strongly suggest you read up on the website ( http://dslrcontroller.com/ ) about what DSLR Controller can do, how it works, and how to use it, before purchasing. The website contains a wealth of information you should know before using. Be sure to read the FAQ!

So it has been documented and not that difficult to find, took me about 7 seconds after entering DSLRcontroller, and it has all to do with preparation and knowing your stuff.

It may sound all harsh but I mean it well. :)
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] marcbkk:
The simplest solution as I already suggested in my first post on this subject would be a setting to disable DSLR Controller from focusing the camera at all. Then the problem would be solved without the need for any workarounds.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Mystery57:
Just trying the sofware out with my Canon 5dMk3 and my Samsung Tab2 tablet.

I'm getting an error message up to combine my focus onto the shutter switch of the camera (the default I know) whereas I use the AF back button focussing method as do many photographers.

Other than to constantly change the camera to and from the setting is there anyway around this.

When I connect the camera to my PC I use Canons own software Zoombrowser and that does not require me to reset the camera buttons

Many thanks for a great piece of software
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] rdcamps:
I can't quiet get what you mean with your post. You said you use ipad with shuttersnitch via ftp but I was talking about the possibility of adding a feature to dslrcontroller which is not compatible with IOS. So I am not really concerned with solutions outside of dslrcontroller. My questions where specific to dslrcontroller. If it is not possible with dslrcontroller, surely there are many more wireless file transfer solutions out there. However, since I am using dslrcontroller now, I would like to find a solution that could be built in to the dslrcontrolle app. Also, what do you mean with "making TPlink universally usable"? Do you mean making it usable for android as well as IOS devices? My posts do not suggest that chainlink make their dslrcontroller app to be also compatible with IOS devices. But I don't really see any reason why they should not try to do it. Surely it would not hurt their interests if they broaden the user base by including IOS devices :). As it is, dslrcontroller is a great android app but even chainfire/dslrcontroller has a page where possible feature additions could be suggested. Are you now using dslrcontroller on your android device and somehow transferring files via shuttersnitch with an ipad? Sorry but I am a bit confused.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] msatter:
I had the iPad, Shuttersnitch and Eye-Fi before DSLRcontroller was existing and it is a combination I still using because of it cheer simpleness, flexibility and functionality. I use the iPad each shoot I do but I used till now only in one shoot DSLRcontroller because the camera was on a boom. Without DLSRcontroller I clould not have done that shoot. I can use an Eye-Fi in my camera and DSLRcontroller at the same.

Yes, Chainfire has a version for the for a Jail Break iPad. Now IOS 7 is also free from Apples total domination it might be interesting to further develop that piece of software.

With making "TPlink universally usable" I am pointing out that when that is the case when you don't have to buy DSLRcontroller to use it. So when it comes available it has to go through DSLRcontroller so that Chainfire does not spoil his own market.

....yes the list of possible feature additions is very long and development is not that fast and it one of the many apps that Chainfire produces. First release, it is still beta software, not far away now the TP-Link is there, I think at least.

---------- Post added at 10:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 AM ----------

I Error message on the camera or on your device running DSLRcontroller?
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Mystery57:
I Error message on the camera or on your device running DSLRcontroller?[/QUOTE]

Its the software DSLR Controller which generates the error message on the tablet and stops me accessing the program

---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ----------

The exact wording in the box was

DSLR Controller

Detected possible problematic camera configuration.

Please make sure C.Fn IV: Operation/Others Custom

Controls has both the shutter and AF-ON buttons set to AF

As mentioned earlier with backbutton focussing, the AF is taken away from the shutter button
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Neonfluxx:
doesnt works on Htc one xl

Hi,

I Run viper xl 4.2 with the elementalx Kernel.

USB otg seems to work, becourse i am able to mount USB drives. But if i connect my Canon 600D there is nothing happen. Dslr controller cant find the cam.

Help me please. Is there anything i can Do?

Thank You in advice and sorry for Bad english!
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Chainfire:
It's not so much an issue of whether or not it is possible (it is), but at the moment it's not worth it for me to build because of several reasons. For one, it's a great extra feature of the TP-Link if it were implemented, but I don't make anything on the TP-Link, and it would actually cost me a lot of time and effort (and thus money) to create - unless the Android device is used as a go-between, which (probably) isn't really needed and just complicates the solution.

If you press OK, you can still use DSLR Controller, right? It's just a warning that focussing may not work as expected with the current setup.

Try running "USB Host Diagnostics" from the Play Store and tell me what it says.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Chainfire:
What method do you use to lock the focus? Perhaps there can be some way to detect this from the app.

I think there's a critical misunderstanding here. DSLR Controller does not actually do any focussing - the camera does. If you touch the screen, it just tells the camera to start focussing - the very same thing as if you half-press the shutter button. All the logic, calculations, focussing in, focussing out, deciding if we're currently focussed, etc: that's all the camera. It's not DSLR Controller that failed to focus, it's the camera. DSLR Controller is just a terminal into the camera, it doesn't take over any core functionalities of the camera itself.

As for focussing on the 9 points, your camera is probably set to "live" focus mode when liveview is enabled (contrast detect focus). Changing this to "quick" focus mode will use the same 9 physical AF points to focus (phase detect focus) that you normally use when shooting from hand.

He was referring to you seemingly not being fully versed on how focussing works when the camera is in liveview mode - in other words, knowing your camera, not knowing DSLR Controller. Most of the things DSLR Controller does are in the "pressing a button from a distance" category.

This may (or may not) be implemented in a future update. In the meantime, you can press the AF button on the left row of buttons on the DSLR Controller screen to swith to R-MF mode. This will give you some buttons for manual focus control, but at least it will not initiate auto-focus if you accidentally touch the screen.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Mystery57:
Just tried that and yes it worked (I feel so daft now) looking forward to giving this a good test now, then hopefully to try that wireless setup that you have given information on

Thanks ever so much for prompt responses
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Neonfluxx:
TY for quick reply

Hi and thanks for the quick reply. I have run the Diagnostics tool, but it seems it doesnt find the cam.

I Also tried the diagnistics tool with an usb drive, Screenshots of it in attachment.

Thank You!
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] msatter:
Thanks for the reply. I have on my 5D MKIII focusing active on the shutter and the back button. Normally I use the shutterbutton to focus/measure and then release. When I need fixed or MFT focus I use the back button to do this and DSLRcontroller is happy with that.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] marcbkk:
Thank you for your feedback. When I said I lock the focus I mean I auto focus where I want the camera to focus before going into live view mode on DSLR Controller. Once I enter live view on DSLR Controller then I don't want the focus to change.

When the problem occurred earlier with the focus problem I had I was in AF and Quick mode already. So I wasn't in the contrast detect focus mode as you suggested.

Also, the focus box is still there in Quick mode which can then be moved around the screen, which for me isn't good. And I think what happened is that box may have ended up changing the focus point to one where the intended subject was not positioned and thus accidentally focusing the camera somewhere else instead. Maybe that is what resulted in a series of blurry photos.

So why doesn't the focus box that can be moved around the screen just disappear and then leave you with only the camera's focus points when you are in Quick mode?

I've tried R-MF now and it does prevent the camera from auto-focusing if I accidentally touch the screen as you said, but it is distracting looking display on the screen. Why not offer a mode/option/function to simply turn off focusing on DSLR Controller completely if someone doesn't want to use it? It seems like the most logical solution instead the R-MF work around. I would also prefer not to see any boxes or focus points on the screen at all when I am in live view mode. So being able to turn off DSLR Controller's focusing would get rid of all the distractions on the screen too.

Lastly, what is that smiley face option within the Quick mode menu? That seems like the best one because it seems to get rid of all the distractions on the screen completely.

Best wishes...
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] chompy18:
Hi Chainfire,

Don't know if you missed this post or not, so I am bumping it...

Thanks! :)
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] susza:
canon 5dm2, nexus 10, TP mr3040 router unstable

canon 5dm2, nexus 10, TP mr3040 router - works unstable. Application quits every 30-60 seconds. What can cause this problem?

---------- Post added at 05:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:47 PM ----------

It does the same thing when connected with USB host cable.
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Mystery57:
Ok got the interface between Tablet and 5dmk3 working yesterday via USB also got it working with a Canon 1100D.

Today my TP-Link arrived so I followed the instructions on the website and flashed the firmware for v2. which was the correct one as checked

As in the video

(1) Power the TP on and the power light glows

(2) Wait until the Wireless light comes on, then connect cable to camera and switch camera on

(3) Go onto Tablet and switch the TP Link on as the wireless connection

(4) Load DSLR

When step (2) has been actioned and the camera powered on the Internet light on the TP-Link illuminates

When DSLR loads it comes up Searching for Devices

Then an error message which says that a compatible camera on either wifi or usb could not be found.

This happened on both my 5dmk3 and my Canon 1100D

I switched the TP-Link off again in each instance and moved the usb cable from it immediately onto the tablet, on each occasion then DSLR loaded fine. Prior to flashing the firmware I had checked the TP-Link as working and managed to connect successfully to the Internet and of course to the Inbuilt Memory of the box to allow the upgrade to be implemented

Help please (did send you an email also before remembering this forum)

Thanks

Andrew
[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] msatter:
You can also test if the TP-Link still works by connection it to the Internet as you did before.

The versions of the TP-Link is not clear on the site and it would be nice if Chainfire will give a indication in the name from which version of DSLRcontroller the downloaded firmware version will work. I had a exactly the same problem when I ran DSLRcontroller 0.99.4 with the first firmware version for the TP-Link. When I tried with the 0.99.3 version it worked again.

---------- Post added at 01:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 AM ----------

According to the DSLRcontroller site it should work. Please state the firmware version on your Nexus 10.