[Paid Software Announcement and Discussion] Scorchiooo:
I will give it a go.

Okay, so lets say I am doing a sunset. The only 2 settings that will change during the BRamp will be the ISO and the shutter speed. The aperture setting is out of the equation because it is a source of flicker. I will explain. On Canon cameras we use a trick where we select our desired aperture, lets say f11, and then we push in and hold the depth of field button (you should hear the motors move the aperture), then press the lens remove button and turn the lens slightly until the contacts of the lens no longer connect with the sockets on the camera body. Then release the depth of field button. The reason we do this is to lock the aperture in place at f11. Otherwise the aperture diaphragm will return to being wide open between shots so that we have a nice bright viewfinder image. There are small differences every time the aperture closes down and this introduces flicker to the resulting footage. The camera will think you have an old manual lens attached and will no longer display the aperture on the LCD.

As the light levels will be reducing over time as the sun sets, I will need to ramp my exposure so that it gets longer and I will need to increase the sensitivity of the sensor/step the ISO. Whenever I step up the ISO (from 100>200 200>400 400>800 etc) I will have to reduce the exposure time by half as each ISO step is a doubling of the amount of light. If I didn't step the ISO, I would only have around 8 stops to play with if my starting exposure is 1/10th and the target exposure is 25 seconds. Increasing the ISO to 3200 over the duration of the shoot will give me around 13 stops to play with. You can set the exposure drop amount on the BRamper, usually this would be set to 1 stop. Then when the time comes to change the ISO on my camera I just push the dedicated button on the BRamper and the exposure halves. We refer to this part as bulb stepping.

Now that is out of the way I will describe a fictitious beach shoot pointing towards the sun with the waves on the shore visible in the frame, clouds, people etc. This is important because there are lots of moving elements that will be affected by any dramatic change in the length of shutter speed. All of a sudden there will be less motion blur in the final footage.

Find my exposure, say 1/10th sec. I then set that as my exposure in the BRamper as 100ms and put the camera in bulb mode. I note visually where the histograms fall. Do the lens twist aperture lock. No live view. ISO at 100.

I set the interval time to 5 seconds. This gives me some room for the exposure to increase. The interval in this instance is the time from one shot being triggered to the next. So while the bulb timer is counting down, so is the interval timer.

I set the bulb stepping amount to 1 stop, so it will cut my exposure in half when the time comes.

I set the bulb ramp to 1 stop. On the BRamper, this means that the exposure will increase by 1 stop every 10 minutes.

I set my interval ramp. This will be very gradual as it will cause an acceleration in the speed of the clouds waves and people in the final footage. I will want to end up at 25 seconds so that I can accommodate an exposure long enough to capture lots of stars. I could set my interval to 25 seconds at the beginning and expand my bulb into that, but that would mean that the initial footage would seem quite jerky because of the long gaps between shots.

Set the buffer time. This is so we can always view the image preview. If shots get to close together the image preview does not display, it takes 700 ms for the image to display on my camera. It is also to give me enough time to make the required change to the ISO during the shoot. So I will set this to 2 seconds, that is long enough to see the image histogram and make the ISO change. If the bulb time collides with the interval time, the bulb time takes priority and the interval time is increased. So if my bulb time hits 3014 ms the interval time will be bumped to 5014 ms taking into account the 2 sec buffer time. I have gone for a slight interval ramp in this instance, so it will be less of a problem.

Make sure I have the contrast and RGB histogram turned on during image preview.

Click start on the BRamper.

As the light levels are dropping, my shutter speed is gradually increasing according to my ramp settings. I can see how the histograms are behaving as well as the actual image as the shoot progresses. If the contrast histogram is moving to the left I can see that my bulb ramp isn't strong enough, so I can gradually increase it using a dedicated button that increases it in 10% steps. If the histogram is moving to the right I will decrease it via another dedicated button. I will gradually alter the ramp so that the histogram stays in the same place. I am pretty much glued to the camera during the shoot.

Fast forward a bit, now my bulb time is at 2000 ms and I am thinking about stepping the ISO. As soon as the image preview is displayed, I push the button on the BRamper to bulb step by 1 stop, then I change the ISO on the camera (this involves actually touching the camera to make the change, not ideal) to 200. All done within the time before the next shot triggers ( most of the time :/ ). So now my bulb time is at 1000 ms and my ISO is at 200.

Hopefully the change in the bulb time won't have affected the motion blur of the waves to much to suddenly. Then it is back to watching the histograms. The reason I have the RGB histogram turned on as well is that during the sunset the reds can over saturate, so I need to keep an eye on that too and adjust the ramp as necessary.

Fast forward a bit and bulb is at 4000 ms, so I will bulb step again. The interval has had a slight ramp on it too, so the buffer hasn't been violated. Same as before with the ISO and bulb step. Still keeping the amount of motion blur loss to a minimum.

Then you can keep going until the 25 sec exposure goal is reached, or you run out of usable ISO. If there was a way of locking the aperture via the software so it didn't open between each shot, that would free up the aperture to expand the range even more.

So that should give you a rough idea of BRamping. I was using random exposure times etc, but the process is the same. Usually I would decide the length of the shoot and work out the amount of stops I will need to cover.

It is a lot easier to do than to write down.