REV. HIRAM BINGHAM TO JER. EVARTS.

Oahu December 13, 1831

Very Dear Sir

By the Ship Cyrus, Capt. Hussey, which sailed 2 weeks since, and which is to convey Mr. Whitney's two son's to your shores, you will probably receive my long account of a movement of the foreign residents last spring in which I was in some special manner intrusted, with a sort of appendix to the principal account in which some notice of the number and the occupations of the foreign population was given. My estimate of the number being from 250, to 300, on this Island.

We are now endeavoring to make an accurate census of the island partly for the statistical tables in the (?) which we are about publishing and which is printed in an edition of 5000 copies, except the tables. The number of inhabitants in this village exclusive of the valley or the plantations has been reported to me this evening by Phelps to be 5,522 including 180 foreigners. So far this seems to confirm my general estimate.

In this letter I hope, in part to redeem my promise in my last, tho I fear I shall not be able to answer your expectations. Though I may perhaps be more prolix and circumstantial than will suit your convenience, time, or wishes to perceive, yet the importance of the question respecting the right and the mods of foreigners gaining a residence in this land, and the character and condition of several individuals, who have expressed an opinion on the subject, will perhaps justify my intended particularity, especially in drawing largely from my notes for the 15th, 16th, and 17th of Sept. last, for I see not how ^1 can better give you a view of the state of the question than by embracing circumstances which would in ordinary cases, or disconnected, appear very trivial. You will expect some account of Capt. Hill and Gen. Miller.

Sept. 15, 1831. While I was very busily employed preparing a packet of letters for America to be forwarded by the Ship Columbus just hoisting her signal for sailing, Capt. Cole, an English merchant or merchantile agent, called on me expressing some dissatisfaction respecting a partial failure of his plan for opening a shop at Maui, and requesting me to go with him to Haahumanu or the king to assist him in the matter of an explanation. I said, "I am very busy making out communications for the ship, and tho I would not absolutely refuse to interpret for you in this case, I should be glad to be excused if you can get any body else." He replied, "No other person would do as well, it is an explanation that I want, and I think it may be well for you to take pains to find out the truth, for it is said, though I do not believe it, that the missionaries are unwilling that others should settle in the country because they wish to get the trade into their own hands." I remarked in reply, "That is idle, and nonsense but you must excuse me now; I must get off my letters." "When will you go with me to the chief," he asked; to which I replied, "When you see the ship out of the Harbor you may call for me." I closed and sent my package, and by the time the ship let go her hauser at the wharf, Capt. Cole was at my gate accompanied by Mr. Stephen Reynolds then deputy Consul for the United States. I was ready to go, indeed met them accidentally at the gate invited them in but my declined being too much occupied with the business in hand. As we were walking

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Dec. 13, 1831

kind wishes and benevolent efforts of Capt. Hill, who were both about to leave the country, and feeling it necessary to leave the place myself tomorrow, I made an early call on the two gentlemen at the house of Mr. Charlton where they lodged, resumed the subject of last evenings conversation, expressed my approbation of the proposed measure for encouraging industry, which Gen. M. had recommended, and intimated that suggestions of that kind would come perhaps much better from him than from Missionaries. I remarked to them both that as they had now been on the ground some time and had seen the people in various situations, and had doubtless noticed something of our general plan of operation and were now preparing to leave the country I should esteem as a favor if they would leave in writing any suggestion or plans for improvement which they might think would be useful to us on beneficial to the nation. As another apology for asking them to write, I mentioned that I was to set off on the morrow with the chiefs on a tour round the islands and might not be able to see them again before they should sail. Gen. Miller said he should not be unwilling to commit his views to paper though he had nothing very definite to offer.

Capt. Hill said he had begun to write something for me in reference to the construction of the articles of agreement mentioned last evening, but promised nothing further. He had indeed commended and encouraged the chiefs in their attempts to suppress immorality, and to encourage the propagation of the protestant faith which he regarded as the true faith of the gospel, and as the only religion that could do them any good, and so far, they cherish a grateful regard for this kindness and advice. He had told me that he had been willing to assist them in improving their code of laws, (tho Charlton told him they wanted no laws) but he thought they had not duly appreciated some of his suggestions; that it was now too late to attend to it as he was making his arrangements to sail. At evening I received from him a communication bearing marks of being written today the 16, as an answer either to my inquiry last evening or if my request this morning, tho' there is something rather puzzling in the date as well as in the style to it.
"Honolulu Sept. 8/31." (see note A.)
He probably made a mistake in refering twice to the third article of the treaty when he intended to refer to the third and fifth.

In the third article "Their majesties bind themselves to receive into their ports and harbors all ships and vessels of the United States and to protect to the utmost of their capacity all such ships and vessels, their cargoes, officers, and crews so long as they shall behave themselves peacefully and not infringe the established laws of the land; the citizens of the United States being permitted to trade freely with the people of the Sandwich Islands."

This certainly promises protection to ships, crews, and cargoes in the ports and harbors, where no law of the land is infringed, and this the chiefs would not deny to Capt. Cole at Lahaina, so long as he conformed to the laws of the land.

The fifth article engages that citizens of the United States whether resident or transient, engaged in commerce or trading to the Sandwich Islands shall be inviolably protected in their lawful prusuits.

**Lawful** pursuits must certainly be such as conform to the rightful laws of the land which secure the unalienable rights of soil to the king, without whose permission therefore none can lawfully occupy a foot of soil and of course, land a cargo or open a merchantile house on shore or take up a residence. Such as have regularly gained, or have been allowed a residence are to be protected, where they are allowed to dwell, and transiet persons are to be protected in their

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Dec. 13, 1831

stay here as long as he chose. He delivered his letter, and Haahumanu seemed disposed to comply and asked the king if they should do it. The king replied by asking her "What is his business"? She not being able very fully to satisfy him, let it pass. Their omission to comply with the request of the (?), he mentioned several times as an evidence that they did not well understand their own interest. What he means by their seeming "to lack to such a degree that conspectuity, so essential between those of our immediate friends and such as may be thought otherwise" must be guessed at, I apprehend, from several circumstances which I have detailed. Thus far for the three days 15, 16, and 17 Sept.

From the 17 to 24 inclusive I made the tour of this island with the chief, traveling about 170 miles, and preaching 21 times, on an average to about 1,000 hearers each time including the traveling company.#

Sept. 25. Received a polite note from Gen. Miller (See not E.) who was purposing to sail on the 26, and a memorandum of his views relative to the islands (See note F.) The same evening, Capt. Hill called, showed me for the first time a part of the original plan with which he set out from England, with the names of several clergymen who had approved of it. In respect to the state of things here he dropped a remark like this, "If I were here with my secretary, and Gov. Adams to do the things that I should point out to him, I would keep everything in perfect order."

Sept. 26. As soon as the sabbath was past I read Gen Miller's note and memorandum to the brethren at the station and with their approbation addressed him a very hasty answer as he was getting his things on board to sail, (See note G.) While preparing it, principally to correct some wrong impressions relative to some matters of fact, respecting which we have reason to think he had been misinformed by Messrs. Charlton and Cole and others, I received a note from Mr. Reynolds asking for my opinion of the treaty, (see note H.) To this with scarcely taking breath from my arduous but short tour, I briefly replied. (See note I.) With this I enclosed a memorandum of the sentiment I had expressed respecting the treaty, (See note J.)

In the evening of the same day, agreeably to my wishes expressed in my answer to Gen. Miller, and to the promise he gave in his note (See note K.) we were favored with another interview with this distinguished visitor at the islands, which afforded us an opportunity of explaining some things of which had been passed over in my answer to him in the morning. He allowed that he might have been misinformed in reference to the points I had touched on in my letter. In the conversation he referred to a statement of Capt. Cole that Haahumanu had attempted to prevent him from drinking wine and spirits at his table. I mentioned the circumstance which I supposed to be the foundation of his remark as detailed in the account of his interview with Haahumanu. He spoke of Honolulu as a place where few or none were disposed to game. Mr. Chamberlain mentioned the fact of one of the officers of the Packet having lost 50 doll. one evening, and Dr. Judd mentioned a young man who was left under his care for a few months as being at one time 1,400 doll. in debt for losses at gaming in the village, simply as evidence that having existed or had existed, to no small extent, I assured him that as to the natives almost every species of their sports was not only connected with gaming, but owed their interest and existence almost entirely to the fondness of the people to that very thing, so that as soon as gaming was prohibited a very great part of

# I still hope to give you a better or more detailed account of this tour than is contained in these short lines.

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Dec. 13, 1831

of their sports were laid aside because without staking property they did not possess sufficient interest to keep them in use. He said he had offered some boys a prize if they would run for it, that some of them seemed desirous to get it but others said "it is _tabu_."

At his request we showed him the letter of Capt. Jones of the Peacock. He remarked that from what he had seen of Mr. Jones the consul he was disposed to take different ground.

In ablution to the taking of the horses for a violation of the sabbath, I noticed some of the circumstances under which the government justified that measure. They considered the attempt if a considerable number of men banding together partially (?) with clubs or otherwise attempting to brave their orders, and to set the authority of the rulers at defiance was such an insult as demanded exemplary damages. The day following this riot in which one of the king's men was wounded in the head, the Gov. made careful inquiry, and on Tuesday went in person to those who he pronounced guilty and demanded eight of the horses that were engaged in the affair. These afterwards mostly restored on the payment of a trifle. The practice has from that time ceased.

His recommendation respecting a new form of government appears to be the result of thought and reflection as well as some experience in such affairs, whether the existing rulers will think they are prepared to follow his suggestions is uncertain. As to giving the right of soil in (?) simple to any of their subjects at present, it is hardly to be expected, thought it might be the best inducement to industry provided the whole system of taxation should be thoroughly changed or corrected. His apprehension that the natives of the Pacific are in danger of injuring their intellect by attention to the doctrines and duties of the Christian religion as contained and taught in the Bible is not well founded in fact, though he might have supposed that much more time was required by us to be given to evangelical pursuits than is the fact. Indolence is the great obstacle to improvement and probably nothing short of the motives and influence of the bible will overcome it.

As to the existing form of Government, union in the national council will give it a respectable degree of efficiency, and if they cannot carry into effect all the laws they attempt to establish, let them ever cautiously avoid being accessory to the sins of others.

On the 27 Sept. Capt. Hill and Gen. Miller embarked with Capt. Kelly bound to the (?) Islands. In taking leave of the chiefs Capt. Hill encouraged them to stand by the word of God and be strong. He received from Haahumanu some presents as a token of friendship. Gen. Miller told the king he had left a _palapala_ with Mr. Bingham for him, encouraged him to be stron and to establish good laws without being afraid of those that were opposed to him - the king expressed his friendly regard to him by presenting him a feather cloak. Thus closed the visit of the two travelers and here I beg leave to close this long letter, by subscribing myself very affectionately your brother and fellowlaborer, for Christ.

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the present time, to be absent some days, allow me to take this method to introduce to your acquaintance, Capt. Joshua W. Hill, a gentleman from Liverpool with whom I have been favored to have a short acquaintance of three or four months and who wishes to pursue his course to the Society Islands.

Should you find it in your way to further his wishes by receiving him as a passenger you would I think find him not only an intelligent companion, but disposed to give you no trouble nor any other person on board and to expect no more accommodations or attentions than he as an old ship master has been accustomed to afford others of that profession. His designs for the good of the inhabitants of Pitcairn Islands—he will doubtless make known to you. Should you sail before I return this will assure you of my unfeigned desire for your prosperity.

Sincerely yours,

Note E copy of a note from Gen. Miller

Sunday 25 Sept. 1831

My Dear Sir,

I have agreeably to your wishes put upon paper my thoughts relative to the subject you mentioned the other day. You can either keep or send me back the accompanying memorandum. However I may perhaps differ in opinion with you on some minor points, I feel (?) you will not hesitate to do me the justice to believe that I most sincerely wish you and your excellent Brethren, a continuance of success in your missionary labours, and that these interesting people may all become good and true Christians, through your laudable exertions, is the unfeigned hope.

My dear sir

Yours ever sincerely,

Note F copy of Gen. Miller's memorandum on the improvement of the nation

Memorandum

It is hardly necessary to observe because it will be admitted by those who reflect on the subject that the advantageous geographical position of the Sandwich Islands, their great fertility, salubrious climate, and safe commodious port render them of considerable importance to the commercial world; that as they become better known so they will be more frequented by foriegners; that Honolulu can scarcely fail to become a depot for European and Indian goods whence they will be reshipped for the new States of Spanish America and for the North West Coast, and that the increasing whale fishery and other commercial speculators will all contribute to augment the trade of the place. This therefore being the natural order of things it can barely be supposed that foreign nations will permit so important a source of commerce to be impeded or seriously molested by capricious and arbitrary measures of the native rulers, especially when the presence of a single ship of war would be amply sufficient to protect foreigners from oppressive measures made known by a town crier as is now the case and ensure to them that liberty and free traffic which have been promised to them by former as well as the actual authorities. If then the natives wish to retain the government of the Islands in their own hands, and become a nation if they

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are anxious to avoid being dictated to by any foreign commanding officer that may be sent to this station, it seems to be absolutely necessary that they should establish some defined form of government, and a few fundamental laws that will afford security for property, and such commercial regulations as will save for their own guidance and well as for that of foriegners; if these regulations be liberal as they ought to be, commerce will flourish, and all classes of people will be gainers.

Suppose the King from his youth or other causes, to be unfit to govern of himself would is not be prudent for the chiefs to assemble and having been made acquainted with the dying injunction of Hamehamaha the Ist for them to nominate a council, composed of three individuals of which the Queen dowager Haahumanu might be the President; and to establish as a fundamental law that no decrees should be promulgated or important transactions of state, take place, without the consent of the council, which would in fact be placing the power in the hands of Haahumanu whose firmness of character renders her perhaps the fittest person to wield the reins of government. All laws made should of course be printed and circulated not only to the several governors of islands, but to the foreign consuls residing at the capital. For the performance of this duty a secretary of State would be required who might also be Secretary of the Council-- and he should be the organ of all official communications with government and of course chosen from the most enlightened and trust worthy persons. I am of opinion that one of the first objects of the new government ought to be to ameliorate the conditions of the people, to do away gradually with the actual despotic feudal system and thus convert the degraded serfs as the Kanakas now may be styled, into industrious and respectable citizens.

It is a mistaken idea of the present rulers to fancy powers and dignity arises from the King being the sole owner of all land, this indeed is the root of all evil, for while no one has a field that he can call his own, or which is liable to be taken away at the caprice of the King or influence of his favorites, the temporary occupant will never cultivate it properly much less will he think of forming plantations where such industry would tend to place in jeopardy the fruits of his labours.

The question of how a beginning ought to be made may arise. Having formed the executive, as proposed, something like the following might be attempted. Let the government, that is, the King with the consent of his council, declare a portion of the land now possessed by chiefs to belong to them and their heirs forever. Half a dozen Kanakas on each island might also be granted small tracts in the same way on the condition that they give one tenth of the produce to the King, and that they or their dependants bestowed one days labor in every week in favor of the local or general gov't. provided such services were required. A few deserving Kanakas might br yhus encouraged every year, and care should be taken to select them from those who are married and have bought up a certain number of children, which alms perhaps would tend more than any thing else to increase the aboriginal population which there is too much reason to believe will otherwise become extinct. At all wants it would be the means of creating a middle class of society composed of free men whose fidelity might be depended upon since it would be to their interest to support the government that protected them. It is true that in the course of two or three generations the chiefs would lose much of their absolute power, but on the other hand they would gain by becoming rich proprietors not altogether dependant as before upon court favor: in fact all conditions of society would be benefitted. As foreigners

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Note H copy of Mr. Reynolds' request for my opinion of the treaty or my statement
to Capt. Cole.

Rev. Hiram Bingham,

If you can let me have the paper which I requested of you relative to
the treaty for the reason I gave, you will oblige your obedient servant.

Monday morn. Sept. 26, 1831

Note I copy of the reply to Mr. R's. request

Oahu Sept. 26, 1831

To Mr. Reynolds

Sir,

When your note of this days date was handed me, I was specially engaged,
but I now send you my memorandum at your request hoping it is seasonable and satisfactory.
You are at liberty to forward it to the American government agreeably to your pro-
posal.

Memorandum

My statement to Capt. Cole which I have been requested to put on paper
relative to the articles of arrangement agreed on by Capt. Jones and the chiefs of these
Islands, amounts to this, 'that I had never understood those articles as granting a
residence to any and every man who might wish to acquire it, or a right to settle in
the country when and where he pleased, without other permission from the rulers.'

Note K copy of Gen. Miller's note the evening before his departure.

My dear Sir,

We do not sail, it seems until tomorrow. I will therefore see you be-
fore I embark. I am at this moment troubled with a violent tooth ache; if it subsides
I will give you a call in the evening.

Yours very sincerely,

Monday 2 P. M.

Letter in Hawaiian from Bingham to Baldwin, July, 1837

Translated by Henry P. Judd, Sept. 1949

Original in Hawaiian Mission Children's Society.

Greetings to you, Baldwin:

The ship is sailing to Maui and taking back the king to the
transactions with the warships and the consuls.

They have released the Roman Catholic missionaries, altho
Kinau did not tell them to do so.

Captain Belcher brought the ship "Clementine". He said to
me in anger: "If one of my men is injured in carrying out your
orders, you are the first person whom I shall imprison. Thus he
spoke to me.

The consul said to the captain of the French warship:
"Bingham dictated these commands". I denied it.

He spoke like a roaring lion, "If you insult me again, I
shall thrash you with a horsewhip".

Thus they two spoke in the presence of the chiefs when I
had concluded the interpretation of their words to Kinau and her
retinue.

Bingham

Mrs. Bingham has been ill, but is now somewhat better. God
took care of us two last night when our opponents came to cause
trouble on the street at midnight and until nearly dawn, beating
the drum of revilement.

HIRAM BINGHAM TO THE MISSIONARIES AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS

Barque Flora off Aimeo

Sept. 7, 1840

To you, my dear Brethern, & your beloved helpers, I feel it a duty and a pleasure to give a brief account of ourselves before we pass on from the far famed Islands now in sight, & shall begin now so that in the bustle of a few days visit I shall not be deprived of the opportunity to speak of this first stage of our long journey. It is now a month & 4 days since we were hurried on board the Flora, by the kindest of friends, as though escaping from an enemy when on reaching the deck, all hurry of preparation seemed to cease like the abating of a storm. The charterers were not ready. The supplies were not ready, but as the passengers were on board, the charterers would not probably think it well to detain them & the ship in order to get the supplies needful for their comfort. The charterers had not furnished an Irish potatoe nor an egg, nor made any provision for milk for our children, nor provided any poi or arrowroot *fit for use*. Capt. Spring says he purchased one barrel of Irish Potatoes for his men, of which we were allowed to share while they lasted; but which have been some time gone, and our whole stock of sweet potatoes were exhausted last week. Mrs. Bingham and Mrs. Rogers both have poor appetite thus far; each of them weighs less than 100 lbs. and both make great account of Irish potatoes, of which we are to expect no more during the voyage, tho if we had them they would often be glad to eat a roasted Irish potatoe with salt when other ship cooking is not to them relishable, and all the passengers must greatly feel the need of that almost indispensable (sic) vegetable, & Capt. Shaw assures us & says he told Mr. L. that Irish potatoes *cannot* be obtained at the Society Islands. Capt. Spring says he told Mr. Ladd we should need 10 barrels of Irish Potatoes slightly scalded to prevent their sprouting. Those of our number who have had good appetites have lived well thus far, but about 2/5 of our flour is exhausted already, and the Flora creeps moderately along. As for my poor self, I have had but little relish for food, cooked on board; have not been thoroughly cured of seasickness, & have lost flesh. My system run down as it was when I left you has been slow to rally. I preached on Board the first Sabbath out, once, and the 2 Sabbath, twice, the third, fourth & fifth Sabbaths, I conducted the service in connexion with Capt. Spring who read, because I did not feel well enough to preach to better purpose. Day before yesterday I had two turns of violent vomiting. But I have not allowed myself to keep my berth a single day. I determined from the first not to yield to the overpowering, and semiannihilating power of seasickness, if it were possible by resolution, & exercise, & proper regimen to resist or conquer it. I held my head up as I have before been called to do before the enemy, I moved about on deck and breathed the fresh air a large portion of the time - began early to jump the rope with the children, and jumped till I blistered my fingers whirling a hard and heavy rope on deck; then went to work and made a settee for my children as we came without seats for them, but I was worse after it, as I thought. Capt. Spring advised walking the deck as the best exercise. I then walked till obliged, as they say here, to make a offering to Neptune. The Capt. advised abstinence from meat, which by the bye I had used but in small quantity. Then vegetable food soured more readily in the

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Sept. 7, 1840

stomach and was rejected. We have no <u>Physician</u> on board, but many doctors &
doctresses. Prescriptions abound, "Raw Brandy" ('Twould kill a well man)
"Brandy and water" ('Twould vanquish a jesuit), "Teawater", "Peppermint
water," "Rochelle salts", and "Tamarind water" &c. The three latter of
these only I have tried, the two last I think I have found salutary, a dram
or two of the salts with soda on going to bed at 9, and a tumbler of thick
tamarind water at sunrise, after washing and coming on deck; but like other
maladies that adhere to my system, I am sure no trifling prescriptions will
remove any of them. Time & the graces of God may extirpate them or
palliate them, or teach me and my friends to bear with them. His holy arrange-
ments are all wise and good and it is well when we can acquiesce in them all,
when nature is disposed to rebel.

I have spoken of my own seasickness as I have appeared to be the marked
one in this respect. Most of the passengers have been seasick some. They got
over it soon. Mrs. Thurston & family have appeared to suffer but little
from sickness of any kind, Mrs. Rogers, tho' she has been a good deal unwell
has gotten along better than we expected, she found that sarsaparilla mead,
an article she had provided was a great comfort. We found it so too as
through her kindness we sometimes shared it with her as a very agreeable
effervescing draught and nourishing and comforting to the stomach.

Mrs. Bingham, with all her pains, weaknesses and ills, has been occasionally sadly <u>homesick</u>. Hiram has had here & there a rub which may perhaps help sober down his full toned voice, & antic movements, & help him to consider. He has sometimes wished himself back to Honolulu, (bad as it is) and I am not quite sure he is the only one.

Capt. Shaw & his little ones have got along well with the other passengers.
Both he and Mr. Gray have themselves (sic) quite agreeable. Mr. Olmsted too
is kind and agreeable, but I think doses himself too much to enjoy good health.
He is not seasick at all.

I will say a little more about the health of the company. Mr. Rogers was considerably reduced when he came on board & shut himself up in a dark state room and had a little light food carried to him; if he crept on deck for a few moments he came rather as a blind man who had no use for the light, so completely bandaged & covered were his eyes. I undertook to advise nurse him a little poor as I was myself in health & medical skill, as I thought perhaps arrogantly that I could advise him a little better than he could himself. I encouraged him to let his eyes have the fresh air as much as they could possibly bear. He had kept them both from air & light till they would bear neither without pain, tho' free from inflammation or nearly so. He tried this, & soon found the advantage of it. He applied calomel to his felon on the neck to make it discharge but I think it tended to (word illegible) the openings which were very small. An abscess formed near the seton (or felon) which seemed to require the lancet, which I applied successfully & soon after removed the seton.

He now comes to the table for his meals, walks on deck without glasses,
goggles, or bandages to cover his eyes, & his health appears to be rapidly
improving. Lucy was ill one day from eating Banita. Capt. Spring also
another day from the same cause. But we are all getting along if we except the

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Sept. 7, 1840

Flora who since we weighed anchor, seems to have been in no great hurry. Capt. Shaw says she is the slowest vessel he ever had his foot on. We made the Society Islands on Saturday morning falling about one degree to the Leeward of the latitude of Wilkes' Harbor, Tahiti, which we wish to enter, to land Messrs. Shaw & Gray. We have been 48 hours trying to come up but we are still about 30 miles from the harbor, a brisk hade (sic) wind directly in our teeth and eyes. The Flora has not cargo enough to keep her steady under a press of sail; it is difficult to make her go ahead with any wind more than 7 miles an hour and attempting to beat against a head wind she does scarcely more than go back and forth on the same track. Unless Capt. Spring shall take in cargo, ballast or water to balance the ship, we have a prospect of a very long passage. The Lausanne will stand a fair chance to get home first, so please report us by that vessel or any other that may sail soon.

Tuesday Sept. 8. It is 24 hours since my last date. We have gained about 15 miles Easting our harbor bearing S.E. 30 miles distant. We stood off Northerly toward home about 12 hours and are now 9 hours on this tack south S.E. and are endeavoring to pass the Eastern extremity of Moosca or Aimeo on this tack. Capt. Shaw says it is possible that he and I can get ashore tonight in some canoe. I shall (word blotted out) to myself the means & indulge the hope of making some additions to this communication, after seeing a portion of this interesting field for missionary labor which for 44 years has attracted so much attention and called forth so much "Brittish" benevolence and "Brittish" Prayer; and Christian benevolence, sympathy & prayer too, which I trust has not been in vain.

Wednesday 9, Sept. 1½ past 9 A.M.

Another 24 hours have "beaten round." We stood off again last night, Northerly till we came in sight of the breakers around a small low island, Teturooii over against Malovai Bay 30 miles distant as laid down on our charts. We are now standing in again S. by E 1/2 E. the harbor bearing S.E. 20 miles distant. Some hope is entertained that if wind & current are not more unfavorable we may get to anchor tomorrow! It is now 5 days since we are said to have made the islands, & yet we have no fair prospect of seeing their beauty or conversing with their occupants today. Is not this somewhat tantalizing? especially as we are all longing for the oranges, the vi (?), & even the kalo of these shores. We can see several ships in the harbor.

9 o'clock P.M.

A pilot came on board at sunset and encouraged us to think he could bring us right in, so at his bidding we steered for the Passage, but while expectation was on tiptoe, rather tottering, the unwelcome sound "ready about" & "keep her off till morning" settled the question of coming to anchor under this date. Capt. Shaw went on shore with the pilot, or with one of the pilots as two seemed come in that character.

Thursday 10 Sept. or 11 Tahitian time. 9 o'clock P.M. Stood off and on all night gaining a little Easting so as to (sic) more sure of entering. We took the Native Pilot "Jim" on Board this morning, who is said to have served 16 years without meeting with any disaster in his profession. He has a spattering of sailor English which he shows off with becoming dignity. It becomes me to speak well of him for he brought the Flora through the opening in the reef about 9 o'clock A.M. & the boat up about 1/2 a mile in an hour and dropped her anchor in peaceful and beneficial harbor of Para, or Wilkes' Harbor, at Pa-

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Sept. 7, 1840

poete.

Capt. Shaw brought us 100 oranges tempting enough, of which we seized and devoured 2 or 3 a piece with a good gust. Some did not stop short of 6 or 7.

Mr. Pritchard boarded us almost as soon as we passed the reef, and politely invited us to his house; but on account of the indisposition of Mrs. Pritchard the occupancy of his house by two American lady boarders, and the illness of 4 of his children with whooping cough which has sprung up spontaneously in his family the first known at these islands, he could not conveniently lodge us. My large family of 12 accepted his kind invitation and went there to dinner. The children however were accommodated at Mr. Joseph's whose house is near and who is the acting missionary at this station. We were kindly received there at tea, then invited to take seats "in the parlor" about half of the floor of which was covered with oranges, tho' he said the season for them had gone by.

Two of Mr. Barffs children are with Mr. Pritchard's family. Mr. Joseph Barff & Miss Louise Barff, both well bred, intelligent, interesting persons, grown up and marriageble (sic). The former has spent about 3 years in England & is now studying theology & filling (?) to be a missionary under the tuition of Mr. Pritchard. This is proof of the confidence reposed in the Missionary consul.

A little before tea we walked over to with young Mr. Barff to pay our respects to her Majesty the Queen Pomare, Mr. P. being engaged in a Friday meeting at the time when we were expected by her to call. Mr. Pritchard soon came and acted as interpreter tho I had conversed a little with her in broken Tahitian. She met us kindly, very plainly dressed, wearing her hair as Mother Eve doubtless did, which is very fashionable here both at home & at church.

She made kind inquiries about the king of the Sandwich Islands, about the number of missionaries, and our prospects there. When I told her what kind of laborers were employed in our field, & how they were distributed, the preachers & pastors, the Printers & Binders, the Physicians, professors, schoolteachers, secular agents, &c. she seemed gratified and said "You have your plan well cut out and arranged in all its parts for your work." I informed her that we had printed 10,000 copies of the entire Bible in token of my earnest desire that she and all her people might be guided and benefitted by its contents which had already been placed within her reach by her own teachers. She said "Your thought is a very good one."

About 70 Bibles in the Tahitian language have arrived from Eng. the rest of the Edition 3,000 is expected shortly.

Sept. 11. This morning the Missionary Brig The Camden, Capt. Morgen, came into Harbor. I had the pleasure of meeting the patriarch Mr. Nott from Eng. with his wife. Mr. Drummond & his wife, a reinforcement, Mr. Rogerson.

5

Sept. 7, 1840

and his wife of Roraberor, & a son of Mr. Henry who all came in the Camden from Sidney, together with the Rev. Mr. Heath Missionary at the Navigators, an interesting arrival, & how opportune for us and for the people too for the Camden brings a shipment of bibles, testaments & other useful books, it is said about 3,000 each, or 9,000 in the whole for these islands.

12. Mr. Nott preached, but with feeble voice in the forenoon -- I was pleased with the singing of the natives; it was entirely different from ours.

25 Sept. I have seen a large portion of the stations in this island & all the missionaries of the Windward group. The people are very ready to pay 2 Doll. cash for the Bible, & they are sold off at once.

Schools are not flourishing.

The missionaries are in good health.

Much has been done, much remains to be done.

The sisters with me will tell you many things which I have not time to do now. We sail this morning - from this place having taken on board about 100 tons cargo - (word illegible) Irish potatoes and but a very few yams.

I enjoyed myself well most of the time at this place but have had a very ill turn, a kind of cholera, I think. --this accounts in part for the haste in which I am obliged to close this letter, as I am hardly recovered from it.

Mrs. B. has gained I think some since we arrived here but has not much courage to undertake the voyage.

Mr. & Mrs. Rogers both had an attack last night of cholera morbus, but are relieved this morning.

I am sorry to break off so hastily but it is necessary.

Farewell --

Your affectionate brother