5326 words

GOING WEST 1845

by
THE LAST MAN.

Long before the sage of The New York Tribune recommended the young man to go west and grow up with the country, there existed a strong disposition in human nature to scatter.

The first man born at the end of Evolution, felt his native land was not adapted to his aspirations and went to a new country. And it is partially true, ever since the landing of the Mayflower, eastern boys have been watching Sunset, and waiting their majority, that they might go and see for themselves that wonderful big hole it went down in.

From the first settlement of the United States, to the present time, there has been more or less an army of border squatters preparing localities for permanent occupants, and trying to keep out the way of that "will with a wisp", called civilization. This steady stream of emigration has carried the census centre far out in one of the Western States, and given representation a power respected in the legislation of the Nation; and soon it will take the Capital with it, to a fitting place for a great Nation.

One morning early, the 15th of February, 1845 a coach and four was standing in front of the Stage Office on Superior Street in the

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City of Cleveland Ohio. As a young man emerged from that locality with baggage, a voice rang out on the frosty air, "Hello Doc— which way?" —"Going West"— And while the two were passing thanks and good bye, the door of the mud wagon was slammed by the agent and the crack of the whip gave the signal and off the passengers and mail started for Columbus Ohio about one hundred and forty five miles.

At that time there were no railroads, telegraph, automobiles, bicycles, daily papers, telephones, letter envelopes or postage stamps. All science, knowledge and much of present civilization, was locked up in the safety vaults of the enterprising West. And it was as natural for rising generations of advancement, to be at the opening of the resources and energies of the country where they might enjoy the light and glory of their achievements; as it was for the millions of bison, that swarmed over the Northwest, to find and follow the pathway to the saltlicks in Kentucky.

The DulDuque lead mines were made after five changes of transportation, but not without many interesting reminiscences that may here be omitted.

The western enthusiast was now on the ground and must investigate, locate and prepare for business. He was no great socialist, still, grass was never known to grow under his foot; the weather was rough and as he was watching the freaks of sand, snow and wind sweeping down the street, he heard an exclamation "fifty dollars — only fifty dollars". From the figure, but dimly seen, the auctioneer was riding

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a horse with good style, and was hailed, and on sight, one dollar was added. The auctioneer standing in the storm cried "fifty one" and to the wind "do I hear any more". The horse is yours stranger" and deal of a good bargain too". It was evident to the purchaser the kind of goods he was buying, and made an effort to see the "bird", which he had reason to suppose was hovering around not far off. The salesman attempted to cover suspicion by saying, "Then fellers wat comes on hosses from ole Kanetuck is allus out no money and, aftu sell at any price to get away".

The Doctor inherited a large share of admiration for a nice horse, and his ideal of what one should be, was completely realized in his purchase of this well bred Kentucky horse. And to him it was quite as happy a surprise, and special providence, as it was to the historical man when he found that sheep tangled up in the brush, which saved the life of his only son, and very good boy.

The last item was now added to the outfit for business. His store of books, drugs and surgical instruments, as well as travelling equipments were well selected; and with his hospital and dispensary experience, he felt pretty well fixed and qualified, to creditably maintain either a city or country practice. But the inhabitants, generally, as far as he had seen, were extremely poor, labor low, and money scarce; and every avenue teeming with professional men crowding each other to the point of starvation. However, he was not discouraged, for he was an enthusiast and knew it to be a virtue not easily suppressed by opposing obstacles, that no good cause,

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nor business ever proved successful, unless championed by
enthusiasm. He came to stay and would submit to the unexpected
and take it easy.

The Postmaster had been made banker and in whose hands had been
deposited five hundred dollars of Michigan "Red Dog" money which
had been purchased at a large premium in order to have something
that would pass current in the West. At the time, it was the only
circulating medium in Ohio that retained confidence sufficient to
hold over night. As for gold and silver the whole country was as
destitute as were the Apostles.

The weekly eastern mail arrived; and on entering the postoffice,
the Postmaster said: "the mail has brought some unwelcome news,
Orin Smith and Sons Bank has made a bad failure and your money is
probably worthless". "But I have also some good news, a letter
from a member of the Territorial legislature, Samuel Murdock, from
the newly organized County of Clayton, wishing me to see General
Jones and aid him in sending a good Doctor to that County." At this
juncture the Postmaster picked up the letter and read "The county
has neither a doctor or preacher. There has been as yet no necessity
for either, as there has been no sickness, wedding or funeral in
the county since organized. *** We intend the Indians shall be
removed this coming summer, and then Clayton County will fill up
rapidly, for it is a delightful part of the Territory: having a
rich soil, well watered and adapted to agriculture and stock raising,
and will attract a first class of citizens in its settlement".

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"For a doctor it will be a paying location. Almost all coming to the country do so with the expectation of purchasing land as soon as it is brought into the market by the Government. But for the present take up preemptions and hold their money for future use; and it is the only place now in the Territory where gold and silver is the entire kind of money used. Being contiguous to the Fort where the Government pays out continuously for supplies in hard money, gives the county a circulating medium for the business of the present; and everything is on a sound basis of cash down". The letter also stated that two thousand Germans, residents of Germany, had purchased lots in a contemplated city named "Guttenberg" located on a beautiful prairie bordering the Mississippi on the eastern boundary of the county; and that the lot owners were in New York on their way, intending to build a great city; and that these people would bring with them more or less hard money. And this and the nearness to the Government pay-roll, would insure advantages to a professional man far above any county in the Territory.

All this and more was stated in Mr. Murdocks letter: and during the discussion of which, General Jones thought from reports that Guttenberg had about twenty houses recently erected; if it had not it soon would have many more; and, insisted upon the location being a good one, saying "the place to make money exists, and in this instance will be much better before land sales, than it will be after, for in all new countries settlers buy land until they make themselves land poor, the worst kind of poverty that ever afflacted the human family".

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The storms of Spring had subsided and armed with letters to Samuel Murdock and Reuben Noble, the Doctor well mounted, took an Indian path at Dubuque expecting to make Guttenberg early that evening. After riding through an unsettled country forty five miles, he came to Turkey River in a furious thunder storm. The river was high and wide, making it clear the days journey was over. Not a cabin or sign of human habitation, or civilization had been seen during the days ride, and the present looked very much like camping out, or staying in the saddle all night. While meditating upon the situation a dog was heard barking a long distance off in the heavily timbered Mississippi River bottom. While advancing in the direction of the sounds, smoke was seen ascending. Yes, dog-bark and smoke, ordinarily two very insignificant things, but under the circumstances, became magnified in their importance several thousand times, for he knew they were the advance agents of civilization.

A young trapper from Wisconsin had recently crossed over and he and his girl wife were camping in an unfinished but built of such small logs as the two were able to handle. The cabin had a door-way but no door to close the opening and was destitute of a chimney and chinking. Although only underway of construction it was well roofed with clapboards, the thing important, as it continued raining the remainder of the afternoon and greater part of the night.

On inquiry the young man said it would not do to swim the horse over the river as it was high and swift, and the drift had been running out all day: he did not think there were any houses in

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Guttenberg; at least there was no sign of a house a week ago, when he was up there, and conveyed the information that no one lived within seven or eight miles of Guttenberg, and to get there a person south of it "would be obliged to cross Hog Back which with a horse would be rather a dangerous thing to attempt". "There is a kind of path or stairway which shows Indians take their ponies over but no white man will ever attempt it I am sure".

This settled the matter and arrangements were made to stay all night. The horse was tied to a tree, well banketed and given a supper of corn meal. Great effort was made by these youthful people to make their visitor and his horse comfortable. A piece of ash-baked pone and cold sidemeat was accepted with relish after fasting on a long ride. A narrow bench with saddlebags for a pillow and a horse blanket for covering made a satisfactory bed for the night; but not without pity for the horse.

Morning came and after refreshments the trapper led the way to his skiff in Turkey River. The river was still high but free from running drift. After much coaxing and kind talk the horse was induced to take the cold plunge bath. He proved a good swimmer, and soon was on the other side, but so chilled he could scarcely walk. The young man scraped him well and walked him around under blankets until reaction came up and was ready for his rider.

The memory of these kind young people had never been lost and the Doctor had often wished and wondered if their pathway in life had been strown with roses. "Oft we meet and kindly greet, Ne'er to

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meet Again". Fifty one years after, by chance, two men of advanced life met unknown in the busy mart of a great Western City: and when assured to each, they had met before, the aged trapper, now banker, seized the hand of the Doctor and with tearful emotion said: "My wife is dead, poor Lucy died two years after" and full of human affection exclaimed "Ah me! I look back upon those days when my wife and I went hunting and trapping in that wild country, as the happy times of all my life; and even now love to recall them as they were then. So near the gates of Paradise". And thus it would appear, the nearer we approach that level on which all may find their natural wants alone supplied, the more lasting is the happiness obtained.

Now fancy you see a would be Esculapian astride a noble steed,
with silk plug hat, dress coat, overcoat, storm ulster, high top
boots and umbrella, saddle bags and rolls of blankets, riding along
the freshly cut and winding ways of the red man, through dense forests
of the Mississippi bottoms, seeking the mythical city of Guttenberg
and you will have an imaginary picture of a reality on his way to
Clayton County, his selected location, to grow up with the country
and obtain the reward which he slightly fancied was to be seen in
future fame and fortune.

The directions from Turkey River were to follow the right branch
of each division of the Indian paths and Hogback would be reached
at a point where Indians cross over. And much sooner than expected,
an object was stretched directly across the line of march, more
imposing than a Chinese Wall, a freak of nature, a bare solid lime-

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stone rock extending from the Mississippi westward indefinitely.
"Indians had taken their ponies over it" by good authority, "Indians
have gone over Niagara Falls in their canoes with safety".

Here, however the pathway continued in a cut groove or steps at an angle up the side made by wquinal hoofs and wear of ages, which testified of the fact. The rider dismounted thinking ' what has been done by man, man again can do; and taking the lead strated up this time worn pathway and soon was so far advanced that nothing but a continuance onward and upward could prevent disaster. The summit was reached in safety, but the feelings of relief were quickly changed to an increased realization of danger. The comb was sharp and rocky. As the horse stood panting with fear and fatigue, his hind feet rested on the south side and the front ones on the north side two hundred and fifty feet up in mid air. The only thing left was to take a similar triangular line down the opposite side of the wall. Now the horse was compelled to take the lead; he did so, and with care and composure descended the stairway. Although the first white man that ever took a horse over he did not feel proud of the success, but rather, that no call or loud demonstration of approval could raise the curtain for a repetition of the act.

At the dizzy height he saw the houseless prairie with all its primitive gopher mounds. Two miles distant on the bank of the Mississippi, a man and horse could be seen. The gentlemen proved to be Mr. Noble, the lawyer and Postmaster for the county, waiting for the arrival of the steamboat, to get the weekly mail. Here Mr. Noble

*Goldsmith.

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was by letter introduced to his expected physician and conducted him
to Jacksonville eight miles west. On arrival the stranger was made
known and turned over to Mr. Forbes and wife saying "This is our
Doctor take good care of him and don't let him get away". Mr. Noble
then pointed to a little one story building a short distance, the
only private residence in town. "There is where I live, get your
supper and come over and see my wife". Before tea was announced
Mr. Murdock came in and obtained the letter the letter from General
Jones which made warm friends at once, and was equivalent to giving
the newcomer the privilege of the town, with the town counsel thrown
in; and a jolly good time this little party had at lawyer Noble's
that night. The sheep that went astray and was found did not give
any more joy and rejoicing than was shown on the arrival of the
Doctor in Jacksonville.

These people he had been introduced to, constituted all the
citizens of the town and were not ordinary border adventurers. Mr.
Forbes had been unfortunate in business east, and came west to live
and support his little family by taking hold of any honest occupation
that presented. His wife was amiable, handsome and good. She had
been in first class social circles of Philadelphia Society, and
made a fitting associate for Mrs Noble, the little Illinois woman,
who was vivacious, intellectual and pretty and could boast of being
first cousin of Hon. Stephen A. Douglas, the talented young lawyer
of Illinois and in 1860 a candidate before the people for the
presidentcy of the United States. The above two ladies named, consti-
tuted all the women at the countyseat and precluded much opportunity

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for gossip, still it was whispered around that the weekly chirography seen at the postoffice and taken care of by a certain person was certainly not "without meaning", and notwithstanding there never had been a wedding in the county there might be an "infair" before the summer was over.

The grass on the prairie was becoming fine and green, and population was pouring in from all quarters and the man seeking professional business was soon immersed to the full extent that he with two good horses was able to do.

The Indians must go; the time for treaty was announced. When the period arrived the Doctor arranged to be absent a few days to attend the great show at Fort Atkinson under the management of General Dodge. Through the politeness of the General and that of a son, he was afforded special opportunity to see and hear treaty proceedings and interpretations of the great Indian orations made before the assembly in the interests of their respective tribes. Many sentences and sentiments of these untutored savages came through the interpreter glowing with oratorical beauty of eloquence and equal in logic and justice to those of Logan or Tecumseh, and would make a whiteman audience howl with approval. But Indians never manifest pleasurable acceptance by anything more than a gentle motion of the hand and bow of the head, if very satisfactory an additional grunt.

For this great occasion the Braves were on dress parade with war paint and they with comrades, wives, mothers and children would be lying around the Fort all day, and as soon as it would be announced

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that proceedings of council were closed for the day, more than five
thousand of those dirty filthy creatures would rise simultaneously
with unearthly howls, yells, grunts, moans, schricks, squalls,
making air and earth tremble, all going to the mission as fast as
their limbs and horses could carry them, to get something to eat.
Where after killing their assignment of acttle and taking their
fill would spend most of the night in the hideous dances. The
mission was a mile or more from the fort and here all the Indians
in the Territory were feasted during the occasion. They were permit-
ed to butcher the supplies of cattle each evening in their own way.
The boss, for which an animal was intended, would rush around the
pen all whooping and howling; and while the frightened creature
would be running around, a buck Indian would jump down into the pen
and seize the tail yolling as he went round and round. When tired
another, and another with probes and sticks, until the poor beast
could go no longer; then one with a great knife would cut the
victims throat: all sanctioning the operation by a war whoop, and
savage howl. As soon as the struggles of the animal made it safe, as
many as could get a piece to skin, would begin skinning and cutting
off the flesh in small pieces and putting it into their pots to cook
for the evening meal.

At the Mission was a wigwam for the dances and accommodation of
the women and children. It consisted of a brush tunnel something
less than a mile in length and forty feet wide. On either side were
bunks constructed of boards, one above another, similar to a
Pullman Sleeper; thus forming an aisle with supporting posts along

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the centers. In the middle line of this tunnel were located good smoking fires, fifty to one hundred feet apart. After taking their evening meal, the entire concourse would resort to the wigwam as their theater for amusement, and spend the greater part of the night on the "dance". During this performance one hundred or more musicians would occupy bands upon the sides along the line of march so as to make an equal distribution of pandinonium. The announcement of readiness for the performance was made by the "musicians" giving the war cry and starting up their clatter with cow bells, tin pans, triangles, stovepipes and anything capable of making a noise. Men and women two by two start down the right side of the tunnel, yelping and yelling followed by others until the circuit will accommodate no more, all with a harmonious jerking motion, grunting, groaning, whooping, hawling, crying, going round and round a line of fires in a close tunnel on a hot night in June was undoubtedly considered more than equal in pleasure and purpose to those nonsensical dances of the white man.

Picture if you can the diabolical scene. No pencil and brush can paint the infernal. No imagination can catch and convey the indescribable any more than the artist can put on canvas the unearthly odors that arose from the wigwam and dance of this savage congregation. But in it all was seen a telling lesson on the force of habit. While the noise, smoke and smell would have killed or thrown into convulsions any other animal, the old women and children too young to join in the dance would pile into the unoccupied bunks and go into a sound and no doubt refreshing sleep. All in all, this the greatest

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Indian show over witnessed is without comparison or imitation. Making
Buffalo Bill's Wild West a microbe to the Mastadon that gave it
existence.

Outside of the Fort, various fixtures had been erected to give
amusement to the assembled Indians, among which was a swing made by
fastening the ends of a long rope to a limb of a great oak project-
ing over a deep ravine. When the seat of the swing was drawn up the
sloping sides of this depression and let go with a person in the seat
it would go back and forth pendulum like with great velocity. Mr.
Dodge Jr. pursued his friend to take a ride, and then gave it an
extra pull back and it went like a shot over the deep abyss, causing
faintness and inability to hold the side ropes. The condition was
seen by Mr. Dodge, who at once seized the check rope and landed the
occupant on his return in a speechless condition which interrupted
all their pleasures for several hours. Not until long after did they
meet again. One a member of Congress, the other a Government officer,
both much aged by time, but in the past were boys again, and would
have made a pose equal to the "Lost Pups" in the Cochran Gallery.

The labors of the Doctors extensive charge had become constant
and often very fatiguing. And on the 2nd day of July 1845, after
riding on his rounds seventeen consecutive hours, he sat resting
in the long shadow of his office building. The sunset rays were still
gilding the unfenced fields of prairie foliage and flowers and the
low moaning tones of the subsiding trade winds took his heart and
thoughts back to Ohio. What? A friend had arrived. Yes a Doctor from

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Fort Madison, had been sick three months—was dead broke and wanted means to get back to Trumble County, Ohio. There is no law governing the smiles of fortune. ☄️ Business continued to improve and exceeded all expectations and when the autumn months arrived he found himself master of the situation and making more money than any one in the County and perhaps much more than any medical man in the Territory. Still there was a question to be settled in his own mind, of no little importance. He could not help dreaming of the winters deep snow, cold weather and long rides over trackless prairies as being opposed to comfort and might undo all the salutary effects of the daily sunbaths and prairie winds which had accomplished so much through the summer. He had found by experience that the labor of a paying practice was a severe tax upon the mental and physical constitution under the most favorable circumstances. He had been fortunate in location and patrons, and had made up all losses connected with the venture and several times more, and reasoned that the causes which made hard times in all new countries had not yet been felt; and if he ever expected to give up the situation for a better one, now was the best time to do it.

His patrons were all highly gratified with his success and prosperity; and, if expressions of satisfaction and praise are of the least merit in evidence, he had a warm and affectionate place in the hearts of the entire population of the County. It was well known and expressed, that his friends desired to make him a permanent fixture, and being aware a young man is never fully settled in location until after marriage, were very anxious to make the

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acquaintance of Mrs. — who the Postmaster and others thought was yet a resident of Ohio. In this state of mind, and views of others, it was announced a visit would be made to Ohio in November and the day for departure named. This piece of local news obtained good circulation without the aid of a newspaper and as usual lost nothing in the rehearsals: soon every one seemed to know why he was going and what he was going after.

The landlady and her associate were desirous to give the Doctor a kind send off with a big dinner the day before departure, with the promise of one better, on his return with a wife. Mr. Murdock had killed a bear and for variety of game Mr. Pelton closed his store and took the Doctor out on a short hunt. Game was abundant and good hunting ground commenced within twenty yards of the court house and the two soon had enough Prairie Chickens, Pirnated Grouse and a twenty pound Wild Turkey to dinner the Palmer House in Chicago. Invitations were sent out to the several settlements, and thirty-five guests were seated at the spread. All young people from various States intending to grow up with the country.

The dinner was grand and good and the man that sat at the head of the table, at the end of the occasion bid them all goodbye, and was off the next day for Ohio.

The pendulum of time swung on for half a century in silence before the knowledge of the whereabouts of the missing one of the trio of organizers of the great county of Clayton was secreted. The strong attachment and warm friendship had lost nothing by time.

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Judge Murdock wrote under date of October 18,1895 " I was greatly and agreeably surprised to find a letter from you; for the long years that had flown by since I either saw or heard from you, had caused me long ago to give you up only to be cherished in memory as one who had crossed the dark River — 1845! Fifty years ago! How quickly that time has passed; but what a history of great human that events is crowded into, half century. Empires have arisen and fallen, while maps of nations have been changed, and millions of human beings, sorts and slaves have within the period become free men. With the exception of myself and Judge Noble the fifty years would find you an entire stranger here among men: for I *dont know* of a single man *now alive* in the whole country that resided here when you left; men unborn when you said farewell to saddened friends, now dead the streets of Jacksonville brushing gray hairs on their heads, while children call them *Grandpa*,等等

In 1895 the three exchanged histories of their lives and the two accepted explanation for their blighted expectations as well as disappointment in not being invited to the promised returning dinner. But sad to say these friends were soon separated again, Judge Noble dying suddenly August 6,1896 and Judge Murdock the following November, both able speakers, learned lawyers and good men, one a life long democrat and the other a republican. And in the Presidential Campaign of 1896 the democratic judge was stumping for Wm McKinley and the republican judge Wm Jennings Bryan. At the death of Judge Noble Judge Murdock wrote "Mr Noble became an able lawyer and will be greatly missed for years to come. For over half

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a century we pursued the same occupation side by side, and very
many indeed were the legal contests between us, in which hard blows
were given and taken by both, but I never habored a grudge or an ill
will against him. Two years ago I attended his golden wedding and
one year since he attended mine, and both grand affairs where hundreds
of men and women assembled to bid us welcome to the half century
mile post".

Change is the order of Nature. "Time and tide waits for no man".
Of the thirtyfive familiar friends who partook of the parting dinner
and enjoyed the toasts and highly colored jokes of the talented Mr.
Pelton in regard to the capture of the Noble Turkey, the Doctor is
the only one left to tell the story. All have gone to a new country.
From which no weekly mail has ever been established.

This article was written in Circleville, Ohio, in 1896, by
Dr.N.E.Jones.