(H.B. Journal, April 18-19,1915)

(2)

as it is surrounded by steep, almost precipitous, slopes. On a narrow part of the ridge are the celebrated ruins called the Intihuatana of Pisac. They and some of the fine terraces below them are shown on pp. 412 and 413 of the 1912 Report. But those pictures give but little idea of the fact that the ruins are about 1500 feet above the bottom of the valley, perched on a ridge very difficult of access, except by the old trail. Furthermore I had not realized that there were so many kinds of architecture. We noticed (1) Fine rectangular blocks, as shown on p. 413; (2) well cut but small polygonal blocks, also without clay or cement; (3) rough polygonal terraces; (4) rough stones laid in clay and plastered over; (5) walls of stone and adobe; (6) walls of ancient adobe. This would seem to indicate long and varied occupation by several different peoples. The finest walls are those near and around the sun-dial on Intihuatana. There are so many of these in the ruins of Southern Peru I am inclined to regard them as the local sun temples. The best stone work of any given locality is likely to be near one of these old carved boulders. At Pisac the best wall is on and around the boulder in much the same manner as at Machu Picchu. On the other hand there are no perches between the niches as at Machu Picchu. But in some of the rougher houses - stone laid in clay - there is evidence of old cylindrical having been there and been knocked off except in very few cases. There are two places in one of the best houses near the Intihuatana where it looks as though perches had been knocked off. The ruins of Machu Picchu and Choquequirau have many perches - so have Palcay and other places, see pp. 475, 487, 491, 552, 558, 559. We have never noticed any in Cuzco or further south. There are a few in Ollantaytambo. The Vilcabamba runs nearly all have them in greater or less profusion. Pisac is their farthest south, so far as I know - and here they seem to have been systematically broken off. A few of the rougher houses have ring-stones projecting from the front outside house wall - and not in the gable ends, as at Machu Pichu. (See pp. 455-6.) I had never noticed any ring-stones in this position before, but since seeing them at Pisac have found them to

H.B. Journal Letter, Apr. 27-May 1st) (7)

been expecting Mr. and Mrs. Blaisdell of the R. R., but they backed out at Cuzco, and sent their guests to Ollantaytambo. We put them in our reception sala downstairs and declined to let them come upstairs for fear they would interfere with our work. They took most of my time for two days showing them over the ruins here, and it was a great relief when they all departed on the morning of April 29th. Morkill came that day much to our relief. Maynard also came in from his camp to get some more instruments, as"Anderson was not giving him enough to do". The trouble is "Andy" likes camp life and loves to cook, so he leaves little for his assistant. So Maynard is going to map some neighboring ruins by himself and tomorrow, (May 6) I am going to see how well he has done. I sent Doctor Ford back with him, partly because he had done almost nothing for Erdis' tooth, partly because Anderson's rodman, Isidoro, had a bad case of boils, and partly because he is so fussy and important that he made us uncomfortable here. Morkill has been doing splendidly.

On April 30th I finished numbering the nearly four hundred pictures I have taken so far. It is a tedious job, but very necessary if one is to get good results and have no doubt about pictures. They are my best notes, my herbarium, as I tell Mr. Cook.

Hardy and I make good tent-mates. He has learned to cook very well. He made Bumstead very comfortable, and did all the camp work. So it is a great relief to me to have him along. I get more done and have less worry and fatigue. We left Ollantaytambo on Saturday, May 1st for Toronto, via Pisco-cucho. Heller had gone down a few days previously, and reported "a cave with a dozen mummies". His man had seen it. We took ten empty boxes, including seven of our large new packing cases made at the Yale Carpenter shop. For arrieros we had Luis Rodriguez, whom I had with me most of the time in 1912, and Pablo Tejeda, whose mules took me from Arequipa to Coropuna in 1911. He is a most careful, faithful man, and I am very glad to have him. Sergeant Osorio also went with us. The old familiar road seemed

(H.B. Journal Letter, May 5- ) (10)

from Huayllabamba to Machu Picchu. We expect to be gone about two weeks. We are
taking half a dozen Indians from Ollantaytambo to help us over the worst parts of
the trail. Erdis has got a guide for us. It ought to be an interesting trip. I
hope we shall find some new ruins in back of Machu Picchu.

The ruins of Torontoy seem to represent two or perhaps three periods, early,
middle, and late Inca. Most of the houses have niches. One group has perches.
At least five of the gateways have lock holes, some nice ones like Machu Picchu.
Two or three houses are gabled. There is a sacred rock or intihuatana. The old-
est and best house has a fine large stone in it, cut into over 22 angles, and form-
ing part of three niches.

Torontoy is the last flat place of any size as one goes down the Urubamba
valley into the grand canyon until one passes Machu Picchu.

It must have been in a sense a kind of frontier out-post, except that the
canyon was so nearly impassable that no large body of enemy could come up it.
So it is not heavily fortified, although built on top of a steep little hill.

The valley and its ruins is still a puzzle. But we are slowly collect-
ing bits of evidence, and some day we may have something more about it. It is
certainly one of the most interesting places in the world - this Urubamba Valley.
Full of wonderful scenery, picturesque ruins, and fascinating puzzles. It is
destined to be a celebrated valley. I only wish you could see it and enjoy it
with me.

All are well, including checkers.

(H. B. Journal Letter, May 6- ) (12)

They do not seem to have any criminal instincts. We are not troubled by sneak thieves, although of course we take care to keep the warehouse locked up to prevent borrowing. The Indians seem to have a good sense of responsibility. It seems quite safe to pay them their monthly wages in advance. To be sure it is the custom of the country, and the government stands ready to make the Indian work out his contract. But we rarely have any disputes about days lost, and the Indian seems both willing and anxious to fulfill his part of the bargain.

We pay higher wages than others, but have no superfluity of labor. At the same time it seems to be easier to get a few laborers now than it was in 1911 or 1912. This is the harvest season and every one is very busy either on his own account or that of his master or landlord. Yet we have seven Indians clearing Patallacta with Erdis, two helping Heller, three with Cook, two working about the house and in the garden, and two ready to start with us Monday, - sixteen in all. The maize is now ripe, and that is the chief crop of this immediate vicinity. We have used only voluntarios this year so far, and have not had to rely on securing forced labor from the government, as in 1912. It is easier and pleasanter all around. One of the seven Indians we engaged to go on this last trip was a lazy young man who took his bride along with him. She did not enjoy the hardship, and now refuses to let him go away on any more trips with us, - so he is working about the house.

On the whole I am inclined to believe that if proper laws were made restricting the use of coca and forbidding use of alcohol, the Indian of Peru would be a pretty good kind of raw material. They are not so bad as I used to think, and some of them are really good citizens - according to their lights. I think enforced service in the army is good for them, as it gives them a certain amount of education and a new viewpoint. At all events they are patient, steady plodders - when not drunk or near-ly so. They made good material for the Incas to work with. One can understand the wonderful old stone work better when one realizes how patient and plodding the Indian of to-day is. Furthermore, while he lives in wretchedness and misery and filth, he

(H.B. Journal Letter, May 6- ) (13)

likes to have a church or a shrine nearby, and this is often grand and magnificent
out of all proportion to the huts of the worshippers. I used to think this was due
to the priests, but I now think the Indians like to make their places of worship
as elegant as possible. Their ancient temples certainly indicate an infinity of
labor. If they only had good laws and good leaders to-day they ought to advance.

Now to return to the journey. We left Ollantaytambo about 8.10. Hardy went
as my white assistant; Ricardo as my native assistant; Luis and Pablo as my two ar-
rieros. Osorio, the sargeant sent by the government, stayed behind a day to go with
the Indians. We took six pack mules, seven saddle mules, and a bell mare. Our mules
were lightly laden, none having over 180 lbs. and most having about 160 lbs. to car-
ry. We were prepared for a hard journey.

Our road lay first back through the town of Ollantaytambo, along some of the
magnificent old terraces, down to the river, across the double suspension bridge and,
turning to the right, west, down stream by the bad mule trail on the left bank. This
trail is so winding, so hilly, and so bad in many places that it takes six hours to
go down the left bank to a point opposite to one we can reach in four hours by the
road on the right bank. In six hours of travel - or six leagues, as they say here,
the road passes only two estates, or fincas. There are three or four hamlets of In-
dian huts, but no towns or villages. The huts are for the most part built of rough
stones laid in mud, with roofs of thatch made of retaba or Spanish Broom. This plant
was probably imported from Europe by the Spaniards, but has become thoroughly accl-
mated in the Urubamba Valley, and grows wild in profusion, especially in the valley
bottom, where there is plenty of water. It has a fragrant yellow flower, and has
the habit of flowering during a considerable part of the year. Its bright color
and its pleasant odor makes it a welcome plant by the roadside. It makes a fairly
good thatch - but burns readily and makes a fierce fire. It is used for bonfires on
festival occasions.

On the road on the right bank one is continually meeting or passing long pack-
trains laden with produce, "from the valley", i. e., the coca, aguardiente, oranges,

(H.B.Journal Letter, May 7- ).

(16)

is at the mouth of a river, i. e., at its junction with a larger stream. The next commonest place is on some high hill or ridge that projects out into a valley giving a fine view in at least three directions. Sometimes both features are combined. Of the first kind there are examples at the mouths of the Huayllabamba, Pampacahuayna, Huayruro, Choqquesuysuy, Toronto, and Aobamba. Of the second kind we have Machu Picchu, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Qquente, Cedrobamba, and Llactapata. Combining the two are most of the last, except Machu Picchu and Cedrobamba. The situation is a naturally defensive one, for the people who lived up the valley. It seems in a way the natural place for the lord of the valley to have his house - at a place where he could see all that came and went and could also easily defend himself against his enemies. His people probably lived in huts whose vestiges no longer exist.

At Huayllabamba the ruins are partly circular. This is a peculiarity of this region. We found several others nearby with one or more circular walled houses with niches, etc.

The ruins of Paucarcancha appear to be much larger and more important than those of Huayllabamba, but the material is the same, rough stones laid in clay. Most of the houses are without gables. There is a nice circular wall, but no nicely cut stones and no first-class stone work. It has, however, the following traits that seem to belong to the late Inca stone work, ring stones in the gables to tie the rafters; locks for the clan group; exterior perches to which the roof might have been tied, as they occur outside the gable and near the ring-stones, no interior perches or cylinders. The houses appear to have been well plastered over with clay, so that the stone-work probably did not show. There are plenty of windows and the houses are well supplied with small niches or cupboards. There are more that reach to the floor as at Choquequirau. There are no tie-stones in the walls. The lintels were probably of wood, as they have nearly all disappeared, except in the case of the doors to the second storey of the gabled houses. The stairs are on the outside, and there are niches upstairs opposite the doors.

(H.B. Journal Letter, May 7- ).

(16)

is at the mouth of a river, i. e., at its junction with a larger stream. The next commonest place is one high hill or ridge that projects out into a valley giving a fine view in at least three directions. Sometimes both features are combined. Of the first kind there are examples at the mouths of the Huayllabamba, Pampacahuayna, Huayruro, Choqquesuysuy, Torontoy, and Aobamba. Of the second kind we have Machu Picchu, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Oquente, Cedrobamba, and Llacapata. Combining the two are most of the last, except Machu Picchu and Cedrobamba. The situation is a naturally defensive one, for the people who lived up the valley. It seems in a way the natural place for the lord of the valley to have his house - at a place where he could see all that came and went and could also easily defend himself against his enemies. His people probably lived in huts whose vestiges no longer exist.

The ruins of Paucarcancha appear to be much larger and more important than those of Huayllabamba, but the material is the same, rough stones laid in clay. Most of the houses are without gables. There is a nice circular wall, but no nicely cut stones and no first-class stone work. It has, however, the following traits that seem to belong to the late Inca stone work, ring stones in the gables to tie the rafters; locks for the clan group; exterior perches to which the roof might have been tied, as they occur outside the gable and near the ring-stones, no interior perches or cylinders. The houses appear to have been well plastered over with clay, so that the stone-work probably did not show. There are plenty of windows and the houses are well supplied with small niches or cupboards. There are more that reach to the floor as at Choqquequirau. There are no tie-stones in the walls. The lintels were probably of wood, as they have nearly all disappeared, except in the case of the doors to the second storey of the gabled houses. The stairs are on the outside, and there are niches upstairs opposite the doors.

(H.B. Journal Letter, May 7-8 )

(17)

On the whole, the ruins of Paucarcancha and Huayllabamba belong to the same period and were built by the same period. Both have rounded walls on the side overlooking the junction of rivers; both have windows, niches, no cut stone, no inside perches, no tie stones. Huayllabamba is too much in ruins to be sure of lock-stones, but the building material and method of building is the same.

At Paucarcancha the ring-stones project more than any I have seen elsewhere. The main entrance has a re-entrant angle and lock holes. One room has lock-holes - but this may be because it leads into a clan group like a vestibule. There is a nice roadway with stone stairs leading up to the city. High walls and high terraces made it an easy place to defend. The situation is very picturesque. There are views up and down the Pampacahuayna valley and up the East Fork.

No temple or sacred rock has been located. But Erdis found a cave with 200 skeletons opposite the ruins on the other side of the Pampacahuayna.

We made camp close to a roaring brook that was fairly deafening - on the only level spot we could find - about 40 minutes ride up the Huayllabamba. The mules found a precarious picking pasture on the other side of the heavily wooded stream. The seven Indians we had hired to help us over the bad trail and scramble ahead of us did not appear the next morning, so we sent Ricardo after them and started off, up the valley by a cow-path.

The lower Huayllabamba valley is narrow and well wooded. The path ran through thickets and under trees. We frequently had to stop and clear the way, so the lightly loaded mules could pass. We went on foot and soon found ourselves following the rocky bed of a wild mountain stream. It was slow progress, and the mules had a hard time, but we finally emerged from the woods and began climbing up the pass by the old paved Inca trail that was quite plain in the long grass. The pass is 13,800 feet above sea-level. We had camped at about 9,500 feet, so we had a good stiff climb, even though, thanks to the Incas, the grade was easy and the way was plain.

It is always exciting to approach a pass - more especially when no one knows just what is on the other side. We found ourselves looking down into a deep valley-

(H. B. Journal Letter, May 8-10)

(20)

road to the camp.

Hardy had prepared an excellent dinner - of which I ate too much, and had to get up in the middle of the night and unload. After a most unpleasant midnight hour of sickness, etc., I felt better. It was nothing more than too much climbing and too much dinner. I must have climbed at least 7,000 feet during the day.

The next day was fine and clear, and I climbed up early to the pass and had a glorious view of the unexplored region between Arma and Huadquiffa. There is a fine snow range there, and an alluring lot of unknown valleys and peaks.

After taking some pictures we climbed another peak only to find the clouds early and persistent. Waited an hour, but they only got worse, so we returned to camp and found the Indians had nearly finished clearing the ruins, so I could get some good pictures of them.

Plenty of niches in the buildings, but no perches. Ruins of rough stones laid in clay. No find cut stone. Was all plastered once. This place is called now Runca Roccay. It was probably a tambo or inn on the road to Machu Picchu.

It rained hard during the night. An old hole near our tent was quite filled. The Indians had built a rough shelter or two but it was badly thatched and they got soaked. It was a dismal morning. The day before two of the mules had run away - we could see them quietly climbing back out of the Huayruro valley along the road we had come. But fortunately all mules were safe this morning, and as soon as the rain let up we moved. The Indians carried the loads up to the lakes and past the worst place on the trail. It was so bad my saddle mule had to be unsaddled and fairly hauled up the slippery steep rocks.

We all got wet through before we reached our next camping place - on a little level spot in the bottom of a gorge a thousand feet below the pass. Nearby on a sharp ridge were some interesting ruins which our Indian "guide" called Cedro-bamba - clearly a modern name. One building was horseshoe shaped and had nine windows. The ruins were much overgrown and we had to do some clearing. Most of the Indians, however, had to be put on the trail repairing the road, clearing it of fallen trees,

(H. B. Journal, May 10- ).

(21)

making several bridges - and, in short, making it possible for us to take our
mules over it. Three Indians were told off to build a hut which they did in about
three hours - and had it fairly well thatched with wild bamboo vine - too. But we
were very wet.

The next day, after starting the clearing of the ruins of Cedro-bamba - I
started out to see how far I could go on the old Inca trail. Hardy and our gang
of Indians, with Luis the arriero, went to work on the road and found several bad
spots that needed bridges. In one place the road leads through a tunnel behind
a great cliff. Here we saw signs of blasting, which confirmed the report we had
heard that before the Urubamba valley road was built pack trains sometimes used
this old Inca trail.

After a two hours' walk I at last came out on a ridge from which a great part
of the grand canyon of the Urubamba was visible, - and in the distance the familiar
outlines of Machu Picchu mountain - but oh so far below us!

We were on the right track. Only follow the ridge - and we could see the line
of the trail and we would eventually reach Machu Picchu. But what was this in the
immediate foreground! First a flat round-topped hill fringed by a fine wall, and be-
low it, in a green secluded dell, beautiful terraces and the ruins of a series of
bath-houses - a fine cut stone gateway and houses under a dense jungle. We learned
afterwards it is called Coorihuayrechina, or the place where gold is washed. It was
a complete surprise.

The style of buildings was like the others we had seen on this wonderful old
Inca trail - but there was one well cut wall - and a great boulder - slightly carved -
in a swamp near the fine bath-houses or fountains.

After a casual look at the ruins, we walked along the ridge by the old trail
for a couple of hours until at last the ruins of Machu Picchu itself came into view -
and finally the rapids at San Miguel, the bridge, 5,000 feet below us - and the low-
er Urubamba valley - a wonderful sight.

(H. B. Journal Letter, May 12-14'. (22)

The next day the Indians carried our cargo to this point - the mules were brought along in safely, and we made the long hard descent to the Urubamba River at Intihuatana - camping at San Miguel Bridge. We had achieved a new record. We had passed over the fine highway built to connect Machu Picchu with that fascinating country in back of it which I had so wanted to see. And we had located three new groups of ruins. Furthermore we saw two large bears that day.

The next day, May 13th, I climbed up to dear old Machu Picchu and nearly wept to see how it had gone back to jungle and brush. Even the Sacred Plaza was so dense we had to cut our way into it with a machete. All overgrown. Only one group of buildings clear - and that occupied by six pigs! Our lovely camp site now occupied by a hut and dirt, squalor, and filth. Very little of the ruins visible. Alas, Alack-a-day! That afternoon I rode up river to Toronto, where Hardy had already made a good camp.

On May 14th, after visiting Heller's camp and telling him about the bears we had seen above Coorihuayrachina I returned to Ollantaytambo.