THE
LADY'S
ECONOMICAL ASSISTANT;

OR, THE
ART OF CUTTING OUT, AND MAKING,

The most useful Articles of

WEARING APPAREL,

WITHOUT WASTE;

EXPLAINED BY THE CLEarest DIRECTIONS,

AND

NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS,

OF

APPROPRIATE AND TASTEFUL PATTERNS.

BY A LADY.

DESIGNED FOR DOMESTIC USE.

London:
PRINTED FOR JOHN MURRAY, FLEET STREET; J. HARDING, ST. JAMES'S
STREET; AND A. CONSTABLE AND CO. EDINBURGH;
At the Union Printing Office, St. John's Square, by W. Wilson.

1808.

vi

CONTENTS.

<table><thead><tr><th></th><th>PAGE</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>FROCKS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OF AGE</td><td>25</td></tr><tr><td>Morning Dresses for ditto</td><td>27</td></tr><tr><td>Pantaloons for ditto</td><td>28</td></tr><tr><td>Drawers and Stays for ditto</td><td>30</td></tr><tr><td>Shifts for ditto</td><td>31</td></tr><tr><td>Spencers for ditto</td><td>32</td></tr><tr><td>Night Caps for ditto</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Night Gowns for ditto</td><td>33</td></tr><tr><td>NIGHT CAPS FOR WOMEN</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Shifts for ditto</td><td>35</td></tr><tr><td>Night shifts for ditto</td><td>36</td></tr><tr><td>Night Jackets for ditto</td><td>37</td></tr><tr><td>SHIRTS FOR MEN</td><td>38</td></tr><tr><td>Night Caps for ditto</td><td>41</td></tr><tr><td>Box OF LINEN FOR LYING-IN WOMEN</td><td>42</td></tr><tr><td>Contents of ditto</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Shirts for poor Infants</td><td>43</td></tr><tr><td>Caps for ditto</td><td>44</td></tr><tr><td>Frocks for ditto</td><td>45</td></tr><tr><td>Bed Gowns for ditto</td><td>46</td></tr><tr><td>Flannel Blankets for ditto</td><td>47</td></tr><tr><td>Rollers for ditto, with an Observation on the Mode of using them</td><td>48</td></tr><tr><td>Stays and Petticoats for ditto</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Poor Womens' Bed Gowns</td><td>49</td></tr><tr><td>Callico Night Gowns</td><td>50</td></tr><tr><td>Skirts</td><td>51</td></tr><tr><td>Shifts for poor Children from one to two Years of Age</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Stays and Flannel Coats for ditto</td><td>52</td></tr><tr><td>Upper Petticoats for ditto</td><td>53</td></tr><tr><td>Night Caps for ditto</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Pineloths for ditto</td><td>54</td></tr><tr><td>Frocks for ditto</td><td>55</td></tr></tbody></table>

INTRODUCTION.

THE great waste occasioned by the usual mode of cutting out linen, &c. for all articles of clothing, has induced me to take some pains in calculating the different widths, and lengths, of various materials; so as to cut out wearing apparel to the greatest advantage, not only for my own family, but also for the poor; and in consequence of the solicitation of some friends who have used and approved of my patterns and calculations, I have determined to publish this little work for the benefit of those who will take the trouble of attending to this very material part of female economy.

There must be a considerable saving where the mistress of a family cuts out, or, at least, superintends the cutting out, those articles which require calculation and exactness; and to such persons, I am confident, the instructions, contained

a 4

## INTRODUCTION.

viii

in this book, will be serviceable. The materials are set down according to the widths, the quality depending entirely on taste.

I have only mentioned such materials as are of British manufacture, and my reasons for so doing are these:—In the first place, we are so much improved in our manufactures of late years, that the most particular person may wear them without any discredit either to her taste or the elegance of her appearance, and it is surely gratifying to feel we are benefitting a large proportion of our industrious countrymen, by a very small sacrifice to vanity, I might almost say, ostentation. In the second place, it is my wish to render my book of as general service as possible, and particularly so to persons of small fortune, who, with a natural and laudable pride, are desirous of making as good an appearance as prudence will admit. I have therefore endeavoured to combine the greatest economy with elegance; but to those persons who are disposed to avail themselves of the following calculations, and apply them to finer and more costly materials, the patterns, &c. will still be found equally useful.

In purchasing any material, it is cheapest to buy a piece at a wholesale warehouse, provided the proper application is attended to, otherwise, I

## INTRODUCTION.

ix

am sorry to confess, plenty (according to the old adage) makes waste. Who has not heard the following remark continually?—"Well, we need "not grudge making this dress handsome and "full, for I am sure there is plenty!" thus, at once, spoiling the shape, instead of adding to its beauty, and wasting that which might be put to other uses.

When whole pieces are bought there is always a certain quantity over the measure, and the merchant, of course, can afford it cheaper than the retail dealer. It should be observed, in this case, ready money is expected; and I should not do justice if I did not, at the same time remark, that when immediate payment can be made, the retail dealer will be glad to lower his price also. Let it be observed, however, I would by no means recommend what are called great bargains, that is, buying things that are not wanted, merely because they may be considered particularly cheap. These bargains generally prove as remarkably exótavagant as they have been imagined economical, for the consequence is, they are laid by till the time shall come when they may be wanted, and when that time arrives, the notable purchaser is surprized and mortified to find—they are either quite out of fashion—have entirely lost their colour—or, which often occurs, prove damaged

## INTRODUCTION.

goods; and frequently those things are put to
purposes for which they are but ill adapted,
merely because they are at hand.

I have given directions for making all sorts of baby linen, and complete dresses for children, from one to two years of age, and from four to five, which, with very little alteration, will suit all the intermediate years. Also, several articles of wearing apparel for women, that are not likely to be much affected by fashion; and directions for making mens' shirts and night caps; but as there are now many modes of making shirts, I am the more diffident on this head. I have therefore given a medium size with the most usual shape and proportions; the reader has only to measure the wristbands and collar round the wrists and throat, and if they are sufficiently large there is little doubt of the shirt fitting; should they be found rather too small, let it be remembered, half an inch will make a great difference in the size, although but little in the quantity of linen wanted.

All persons, I am sure, have experienced the
ineconvenience of buttons ill fastened on to shirts
and dresses;—trifling as the observation may ap-
pear, it so frequently occurs that I think a hint,
to obviate this little difficulty, will be acceptable

## INTRODUCTION.

to the reader. It is not easy to persuade servants
to take a little more trouble than they think ab-
solutely necessary, but where they can be pre-
vailed on to observe the following directions, and
execute them with care, this little annoyance may
be, in a great measure, removed.

First, set the button on, as is usual, by sewing
it to the cloth three or four times. Next, when
the thread is brought through the cloth, repass
the needle and bring it out under the centre of
the button, and then through the button near
the edge; bringing the thread round the outside
wire, and return it under the centre through the
cloth; then pass it through again the same on
the opposite side, and return it as before; repeat
this twice more, so as to confine the button by
the outside ring, in four quarters, after which
wind the thread round to enclose these bracing
threads, and fasten it off securely.

It may be remarked, I might have given a
much greater variety of forms for frocks and
dresses; also a number of ways of ornamenting
them, by the addition of strips of lace in the
sleeves, &c. but I have confined myself to those
which appear to me most simple and convenient;
and, at the same time, not likely to become old
fashioned so soon as those which are more fan-
ciful.

xii

INTRODUCTION.

As children are of very different heights and sizes at the same age, it is advisable to measure the child before the clothes are cut out, to avoid their being made either too long or too short; this would be very little trouble, as it is only in length any alteration is likely to be necessary, and a tuck, more or less, will usually make the difference in frocks, pantaloons, &c.

In making the frocks for infants (page 1), I have given the usual fullness of skirt, but should it be thought desirable to make them a little more ample, it is only adding one third of a breadth to each skirt; and, in that case, four yards and a quarter will be found sufficient for three frocks.

There is not, perhaps, any act of charity more truly beneficial to the poor than the custom of lending a box of linen to lying-in women, for the month of their confinement; but it frequently occurs that persons of small fortune, who are nevertheless charitably disposed, have found inconvenience from not knowing how to cut out, and make, to the greatest advantage, the articles usually sent in the box. I have given a full account of the modes of cutting out, and making, every thing necessary; and have mentioned the smallest quantity of each material required, which may be cut absolutely without waste. The reader

INTRODUCTION.

xiii

will, however, observe, that should the number of caps, shirts, &c. herein mentioned, exceed what is wanted, they may be cut by these patterns, but then there will be an occasional piece cut to waste, which I have carefully avoided.

On the subject of lending the box of linen, I shall venture to give a few hints, without making any apology for intruding my advice, as those persons whose charity dictates a wish to be so far serviceable to their poor neighbours, will doubtless derive pleasure from any observation which may ultimately tend to an extension of their benevolence. After the box is returned, which it should be as soon as the month is up, the little infant is left to the scanty clothing the mother may be able to procure, which, in many instances, is trifling. To obviate this, I have given my patterns of a size that may last several months, and upon receiving the box, with the contents well washed, and agreeing with the inventory, (which should always be sent with the things,) a present of a few articles of an infant's dress may be given to deserving families, if an extension of the charity be thought proper.

I am led to this remark from knowing how much it is often regretted that all the things for the child must be taken away after the month;

xiv

INTRODUCTION.

introduction.

indeed, it has come within my knowledge that the box has, by this means, been dismantled of some of its contents, to the great detriment of the intended general charity; I would strongly recommend, therefore, that no part of the contents of the box should be parted with on any account; otherwise, before the things are replaced they are probably wanted, and thus great disappointment is occasioned to those who look upon this help as so material a comfort.

It is wonderful how much may be done, if,
in a few of their leisure hours, the servants in
a family were employed to make a small quan-
tity of baby linen, &c. an employment few of
them object to; indeed, not unfrequently, the
visitors in a house will forward the little work,
and thus having a small stock always completed,
those poor women who cannot work, may be
much assisted by a few clothes ready-made, and
to such as have been more notably brought up,
the things, neatly cut out, with the bordering,
tape, thread, &c. is sufficient, as they will be glad
to do the needle-work themselves.

I knew an amiable woman, who constantly
kept a closet filled with articles of wearing apparel
for the poor. Her method was to buy whole
pieces of cheap, strong, printed linen; coarse cal-

INTRODUCTION.

XV

lico, &c. and then to cut out a number of each
article at once; these were put into a large work-
box, and were delivered to the servants when
time permitted, to be made up. It was also her
custom to employ her children in the work; but
it was always as a mark of approbation for their
good conduct, and it was considered a punish-
ment when a child was denied the gratification
of making any thing for her little neighbour;
thus the children acquired a taste for employment
—a knowledge of needle-work (which is, to all
ranks of women, particularly useful,) and an early
habit of active benevolence.

There can be no doubt, charities of this kind
are much more beneficial to the poor than giving
them alms: many of them are too apt to employ
money improperly, and the best intentioned have
it not in their power to obtain as much for their
money when they purchase small quantities as
those can who take larger proportions; add to
which, they have not sufficient knowledge in
cutting out, to make the most of the cloth when
procured.

To avoid damaging the patterns in the plates,
the best way is to trace them on thin paper,
then to cut out the pattern, thus traced, accu-
rately; and by marking each paper with the num-
ber of the plate, there cannot be any mistake.

DIRECTIONS

FOR

CUTTING OUT WEARING APPAREL, &c.

FROCKS FOR INFANTS.

THEY may be made of fine jacconet muslin, called yard and half wide; but measures two inches less.

Two yards and a quarter will make two frocks complete.

The body and sleeves for one frock will cut out of the width of the muslin; therefore, first cut off two breadths, each three and a half inches deep; and, from the width of each breadth, cut off nineteen inches for a pair of sleeves; the rest will make one body. Observe, the sleeves cut one out of the other; thus, suppose the following example to be nineteen inches wide, and three and a half inches deep, pin the pattern, (Plate I, Figure 2), on to the muslin, and cut out one sleeve, then the remaining piece must have the slope (A,) pinned to the

B

## 2 UNDER CAPS.

same slope in the paper pattern; so there will be merely
the hollowing of the sleeve to be cut.

The bottom of the frock body, and the top of the
skirt to be gathered and set into a band of worked mus-
lin, twenty inches long; and when worked and hemmed,
half an inch deep, so that it should be cut, in the first
instance, about an inch and a quarter deep, to allow for
turning in, and the work, which rather contracts it.

The top of the body is also set into a band of the
same depth, and about half an inch longer.

The band forms the shoulder straps, (see *Plate I, Figure 4*). The worked part of the frock body must be set in quite plain. Put rather least fullness of the skirt before. One breadth to each skirt.

*Figure 3,* in *Plate I.* shews how the sleeve should appear when made up.

## UNDER CAPS

Should be made of fine cambrie; that which measures
about thirty-four inches wide will cut to the best advan-
tage.

One yard will make ten under caps.

## INFANTS' NIGHT GOWNS.

3

First cut off two breadths, each eight inches deep;
each breadth will make five cawls (see *Plate II, Figure
1*). The cawls must be cut rather cross-way of the cam-
bric, and put into the head-piece with small plaits; the
bottom of the cawl made with a narrow hem.

Having cut off the cawls, divide the rest of the cambric
into five breadths; each will be about four inches deep.
Each breadth will make two double head-pieces, (see
*Plate II, Figure 2*.)

Should the cap be too large at first (which is most pro-
bable), tack in three or four little plaits where the bot-
tom of the cawl is hemmed.

## INFANTS' NIGHT GOWNS.

They should be made of any warm light material:—
That which is striped, and called muslinette, is very
good for the purpose. Muslinette usually measures about
twenty-nine inches in width.

Eleven yards and three quarters will make five gowns.

Each gown must be a yard long. The bodies and skirts
are made in one piece, with sleeves complete, only having
gores added. Two yards will make one gown without
gores; as the gowns must have two whole breadths in
them. Fold the two yards across as for a man's shirt,
that is, from selvage to selvage; then double it down
the middle, which places the four selvages together;
pin on the paper pattern (*Plate III, Figure 1*). The gores
must be three quarters and half quarter long. Two
breadths, each cut into five strips, will make ten pair of
gores; and each gown will, of course, require two pair.

When the breadth for the gores is cut into five strips,

B 2

## FLANNEL ROBE.

each strip will be nearly six inches wide. Fold them across for the gores, so as to make them full inch wide at the top, and, consequently, not quite five inches wide at the bottom. Join the sloped sides of the gores together, and then join the straight sides into the seams of the night gowns, down the line (C D) in Plate III, Figure 1. When the paper pattern is pinned on, cut out the bosom; then cut the line C B, and proceed to cut the piece, (marked AA,) which forms the body and sleeves without any joining. All the fullness from B to C must be gathered and set into the body from E to B, including the tops of the gores. The front and back must have six rather large plaits, stitched down the length of the waist, which of course will be just even with the gathers on the hips. Along the bottom of the waist run a welt of broad tape for a running string, and hem the bosom for a string, and also the bottoms of the sleeves. Trim the bosom and sleeves with a narrow trimming. The back should be open seven inches.

## FLANNEL ROBE.

By a flannel robe is meant a sort of wrapper which is usually worn by an infant in its night dress, instead of a petticoat. It should be made of fine yard wide flannel; and as flannel shrinks much in washing, should be full three quarters and half quarter long.

One breadth of flannel will make a robe.

Fold the flannel down the middle, and cut the gores which will form the fronts, from the selvage sides. Let

## FLANNEL ROBE.

the gores or fronts be eleven inches wide at the top, and near eight inches at the bottom.

Thus having the piece which is for the back doubled, cut out from the top, on the side which is doubled, a piece four and a half inches long, and one inch deep; this will leave a small plait in the back, then cut the sloped side straight four and a half inches down. Thus, Figure A; and in like manner, cut a piece four and a half inches long from the sloped sides of the fronts, which will make plaits under the arms, when the whole of the robe is joined together. When the plaits are thus cut out, there must remain full seven inches for each front, as Figure B. When all the seams are joined, pin on the pattern (Plate IV. Figure 1), and cut out the top for the arms, bosom, &c. then bind the robe all round with silk binding.

B

## FLANNEL PETTICOATS

Should be three quarters of a yard long, and two breadths wide.

Six yards will make four petticoats.

Some persons slope them a little at the seams, to prevent so much fullness at the top, but in fine flannel this is unnecessary. The seams must go down the sides. There must be a slit behind seven inches long. The petticoats should be set into the stays, and bound round the bottom with silk binding. For the stays, see page 48.

## UPPER PETTICOATS

Should be made of the finest dimity.

Four yards, quarter, and half quarter, will make two petticoats.

Two breadths and a half to a petticoat:—they should be three quarters and half quarter long; therefore divide the four yards, quarter, and half quarter of dimity into five breadths of equal length, and split the fifth breadth to make the two half breadths.

The petticoats should be bound with a band of fine callico, to prevent thickness. Make the bands about twenty-two inches wide, and two inches deep; by making them this width, the petticoats will fold over well at the back. The best way is to put the half breadth down the front of the petticoat, and then the seam which joins the two whole breadths together, will be down the back, and a part of the seam may be left open to allow the petticoats to go on easily. As the bands, when set on,

## INFANTS' CAPS.

should be two inches broad, they should be cut nearly five inches deep. It is a good plan to make button holes in the bands, and fix strings or buttons to the stays, to fasten the petticoats without pins.

## INFANTS' SHIRTS

Should be made of fine cambric, measuring about thirty-one and a half inches wide.

One yard will make three shirts.

First cut off a strip from the width of the cambric about seven and a half inches wide; this is for the width of one sleeve; divide this strip into six pieces; thus the three pair of sleeves are cut out. Then cut the remainder of the cambric into three pieces, one for each shirt body. For the hollowing of the back and bosom, (see *Plate IX, Figure 2.*) The sleeves must be set into the shirt rather full towards the top of the shoulder. Cut the gussets out of the hollowing of the bosom.

## INFANTS' CAPS.

I shall give patterns of four sizes of caps; the smallest I seldom use, as it is so very soon outgrown; however, I insert it here, because for children, who are born small, it will be found sufficiently large; as indeed it is for a christening cap, when made solely for that purpose.

D 4

8

INFANTS' CAPS.

The caps are made of cambric, about thirty-one and a half inches wide. Observe, the patterns are drawn, allowing for turning in, and the quantity taken up by the runners. Thus the cambric must be cut quite exact by the pattern, and should the reader wish to add a strip of lace down the backs, either of the boy's, or the Foundling caps, the width of the lace must be cut from the back of the cap, otherwise the shape will be spoiled.

The first sized boy's cap, (Plate V, Figure 1) must be seven inches long; and the width of two caps will cut out of the width of the cambric. This cap must have a small lace crown, and three runners besides the hem.

The second size must be eight inches long, and the most economical way (and, perhaps, the prettiest,) is to join in a strip of lace down the fronts and backs of the caps. To do this, divide the breadth in quarters, and join the breadths thus divided, two and two together, by a strip of joining lace; then pin on the pattern (Plate V. Figure 2), and it will appear to want only the width of the lace which is to go behind.

The third and fourth size should (to avoid waste) be cut out at the same time, as one whole cap of the third size, and half a cap of the fourth, may be cut out of one breadth; in which case, the breadth must be cut nine inches and a quarter long; that being the depth of the largest cap. Two caps, however, of the third size, may be made by joining in four strips of lace to each cap, viz. one before, one behind, and one on each side. For the pattern of the third size, (see Plate V, Figure 3).

In cutting a whole cap of the fourth, or largest size, (Plate V, Figure 4) there will be half a cap of the second size left.

N. B. It is true there must be a little piece of cambric cut to waste, in the third and fourth sized caps, but it is

9

NIGHT CAPS.

very small, and may be used for chin stays; by which, I mean, a little band that fastens the cap under the chin. Observe, all these caps must have lace crowns. The narrower the hems and runners, the neater the caps will look:—In general, the more runners the better.

FOUNDLING CAPS

Are very useful, as they may be worn either by boys or girls.

The first size, (Plate VI, Figure 1) is seven inches long; and two caps cut out of the width, leaving a piece for chin stays.

The second size is seven and a half inches long; and two caps cut exactly out of the width of the cambric. (See Plate VII, Figure 1).

The third size must be full eight inches long; and by having a strip of broad lace down the front at A, (Plate VI, Figure 2) two caps will cut out of the width.

The fourth size will be nine inches long; and one cap and a half will cut out of the width. (See Plate VII, Figure 2).

FOR NIGHT CAPS

Three sizes are sufficient;—they may be made of cambric, the same width as the other caps.

For the first size, (Plate II, Figure 3) as there is always rather more in the length of any material which

10

NIGHT CAPS.

is cut off in a shop than the exact measure required, three quarters of a yard will make six night caps; two being cut out of the width of the cambric, and three in the length. First split the width of the cambric in half, then divide each strip into three:—fold back a piece for the double head piece, to allow the length of the cap the same as the pattern.

For the second size, the most advantageous way is to cut the length of the cap out of the width of the cambric; thus a short half yard will, in length, make the width of one cap; and in width, the length of three. Fold back a piece for the head piece. Cut the cap by the pattern, (Plate VIII, Figure 1.)

The third size may be made in the same way. A breadth, full half yard long, by turning in rather less for the head piece, will make three caps, as per Plate VIII, Figure 2.

The small projecting piece behind the cap is for a hem, as the cap must draw all round, and tie behind and before. These are very pretty caps. The side points must be stitched to the front, and when the back of the cap is joined up, stitch the points which are already united into the back. As this cap requires exactness, the best way is to tack the points slightly together, to be sure they come perfectly into their places, before they are stitched.

11

THREE QUARTERS CLOTHING.

WHEN an infant has outgrown the long clothes, it is usual to dress it in things somewhat shorter, which is termed Three Quarters Clothing.

The only difference in these dresses is, that the skirts must be shorter, and the bodies usually rather longer than in the first dress.

The following directions will be found useful:—

An infant may wear the first sized shirt after it has left off the long robe, &c. The shifts, described in page 51, for a child of two years of age, will answer when the little shirts are left off; it is only making them of finer materials, and as fine Irish usually measures wider than coarse, and these shifts may be somewhat narrower than for a child of two years of age, one breadth will be wide enough for a shift; thus, one yard and a half will make three shift bodies, and a quarter of a yard will make three pair of sleeves.

For making the shifts, follow the directions in page 51, only observe, the shoulder-straps must be the same width as in Plate XXVII.; the difference of the width being in the bosom, which must necessarily be narrower; as may be seen by the dotted line A, in Figure 3, Plate XXVII.

12

STAYS,

Made as for the first size, being sufficiently enlarged, by
making the shoulder-straps rather longer. (See page 48).

THE PETTICOATS

Also made as for the first size, only they should now
be made almost a quarter of a yard shorter:—the full-
ness is better continued the same, while the child is in
arms, as a scanty dress is then inconvenient, and does
not look neat.

FROCKS

May be made of any material measuring yard wide.
One breadth and a half to the skirt, which must be
about half a yard and half a quarter long. The body
four inches deep.

Six yards and a half will make six frocks.

First, cut off three breadths, four and a half inches
long; these are for the sleeves, two pair in each breadth;
(see *Plate IV. Figure 3*): then cut off four breadths, four
inches deep, for the bodies; one body and half a body
in each breadth. Join the two half breadths together
at each end; then split them open in the middle of one
of the half bodies, thus the two joins will be under the
arms. Cut out the bodies by the pattern, (*Plate IV*,

NIGHT GOWNS.

13

*Figure 2*). Hem the bottom of the body for a running
string. The shoulder-straps, which must be so narrow
as merely to form a hem for the drawing string in the
bosom, should be half a quarter of a yard long, and may
be cut from the hollowing of the bosom. The bottom
of the sleeves gathered into a band.

Divide the rest of the cloth into nine breadths, for
the six skirts; three of these breadths must be split for
the half breadths. Gather the skirts into the bodies,
putting the fullness most behind.

NIGHT GOWNS

Made of fine callico. These will at first sight appear
very large, but as a child of eight or nine months old
is frequently out of bed long after the night dress is
put on, they will be found very comfortable neat dresses;
and, by their length, will prevent the child's feet becom-
ing cold.

One breadth and a half of yard wide calico to a gown;
the seams sewed up and not gored. Make the arm holes
about five inches long. Sew the shoulder-straps as in
a common shift; they should be three and a half inches
long. Then folding the gown, cut the hollowing of
the back and bosom at the same time. See *Plate III*,
*Figure 2*.

A quarter of a yard will make two pair of sleeves; the
length of four sleeves in the width of the calico, the
sleeves being a quarter of a yard wide. Small gussets
cut from the hollowing of the bosom. The sleeves hem-
med at the wrists, and drawn by a narrow string; so,
also, the bosom. A band of calico, or broad tape,

14

STAYS.

round the waist. In all these patterns, attention is paid
to those shapes which iron easiest, and this is as simple
as possible.

Three yards and a quarter will make two night gowns.

It is now so much the fashion to dress children, both
boys and girls, in pantaloons instead of petticoats, that
I shall give directions for dressing a child of about two
years of age without petticoats, and by making the frocks
of a different material, they may suit either.

For shifts, see page 51.

STAYS FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS OF AGE.

As nothing contributes more to the health, as well as
the graceful appearance of a child, than long stays; I
recommend, for a child about two years old, that the
stays be not less than nine inches deep or long: there
is a very neat strong material, sold chiefly for this pur-
pose, and, in consequence, commonly called stay-cord,
which answers remarkably well.

The stays should be twenty-two inches wide, and as
the cord measures half-yard wide, the depth of two pair
will cut out of the width: thus making the width of the
stays, to avoid seams the long way of the cord, it is
therefore obvious, that half a yard and half a quarter
of the stay-cord will make two pair of stays. For the
shape of the stays, (see Plate X, Figure 2):—the shoulder-
straps, made of broad tape, about four inches and a half
long, but their exact length will be best ascertained by
fitting them on the child. The stays must be tied on;
put the strings more or less back to fit the child; line
the stays with callico.

15

DRAWERS FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS OF AGE.

Should be made of flannel in winter, and calico in summer.

Flannel drawers should be made of Welch flannel, called
seven-eighths wide, but measures thirty-one and a half
inches.

Two yards of flannel will make three pair of drawers.
—First, divide the two yards into four breadths, and
from each breadth cut off a strip eleven inches wide;
the drawers must be half-yard long. Each pair of
drawers being made in two pieces, one for each leg,
therefore join the four strips very neatly, two and two
together, down the selvages, and the four pieces thus
joined will make two legs (if I may be allowed so to call
them), and the four other pieces which remain will make
four legs. Fold the six pieces of flannel down the
middle, and cut them each by the following example:—
Suppose the flannel doubled at C;

First cut the line AA, through the double flannel,
then cut the line BB, only through one thickness
of the flannel; by this means leaving the back of the
drawers three inches deeper than the front. Hem, or,

16

DRAWERS.

rather to make it as flat as possible, herring-bone the edges all round, except the top, which is to be set into a band. It is quite open, except three inches up the leg, which must be joined. Set the legs into a double band of callico, twenty-two inches wide, and, when doubled, four and a half inches deep. Make the bands the length of the calico, as, by that means, the width of the calico will make the depth of three bands;—thus twenty inches of calico will make the three bands.

Let the two flannels pass each other full three inches in the front of the band.—As this is a difficult pattern to explain, perhaps, a representation of the drawers set into the band, but not joined up the legs, as already described, may render it more clear to the reader.

This sketch shews how the flannel is folded over at C, the shortest sides of the legs being in front, they are set into the band quite plain till they come to the plaits DDD. The sides, marked AA, to be joined up three inches, and also the sides, marked BB. The three button-holes at the top of the band are to button the drawers to the stays. For the greater uniformity and neatness of the drawers, they had better be made, one

DRESSES.

17

pair with the two joined legs, the other two pair will then be without seams.

### DRESSES FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS OLD.

The prettiest dress for a little boy, is a nankeen frock and pantaloons.

Ten yards, quarter, and half quarter, will make six dresses complete.

There is an English manufacture, called Patent Nankeen, which answers admirably for this purpose; it measures half-yard wide.

As it is thick, and a child's dress should have as little fullness as possible, I think two breadths, each three quarters of a yard long, will be full enough; however, should the child be very fat and large, half a breadth more may be added with great propriety.

When the seams are run up, pin them together, and then pin on the pattern (Plate XI). Nothing can possibly be more simply made. Cut the line AA to the seams, and then cut the line BB, which will leave the back C: split down the back of the skirt four and a half inches, and gather the fullness of the skirt into the bottom of the back. Stitch the little shoulder-straps (DD) together. Set in the sleeve quite plain, except a little fullness on the top of the shoulder. Hem the bosom, and draw it with a bobbin. A little white cotton cord forms the sash; and, to keep it in its place, put a little loop on each side of the back at E. The sleeves cut to most advantage, if made down the nankeen, (instead of across it, which is called the right way of the cloth;) it wears quite as well.

The sleeves should be six inches long, and twelve

c

18

PANTALOONS.

inches wide, so that a yard, quarter, and half quarter,
will make six pair of sleeves, and nine yards will make
six dresses without sleeves.

For the pattern of the sleeve (see *Plate XII, Figure 1*).
The length of three sleeves cuts out of the width of the
nankeen, and the width of four sleeves out of the length;
namely, one yard, quarter, and half quarter.

By cutting the sleeve by the pattern (*Plate XII*),
the sleeve sets better than if hollowed alike. A shews
where the sleeve joins the top of the shoulder-strap,—
B the back of the sleeve, which is deeper than the
upper side, or front, at C, thus giving more room to
the back of the shoulder. Observe, in this way of cut-
ting the sleeves, they must be made for the different sides
of the dress.

PANTALOONS FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS
OF AGE.

Four yards and a quarter of nankeen will make three
pair of pantaloons complete.

They must be full twenty-two inches long. Two
breadths will make a pair of pantaloons. First, cut off
the two breadths, then fold each breadth down the mid-
dle; cut it by the following example:—

The Selvages.

22 Inches.

PANTALOONS.

19

Cut the nankeen only through the upper side along
the line AA, which is thirteen inches; the piece sloped
off being two and a half inches, from B to G; then cut
the slope from B to C, through both sides of the nan-
keen; take off only one inch at the wide part C, and
slope it to nothing at B, then pin on the paper pattern
(Plate XII, Figure 2), putting the straight side of the
pattern to DD, and cut out the hollowing between the
legs EE, when two of these legs are so cut out, join
the straight line FG, with the correspondent straight line
in the other leg; and, in like manner, join the sloped
lines AA together:—then cut a slit from C to H, about
three and a half inches long, and set the pantaloons
into two bands, one for the front the other behind. The
front band should be twelve and a half inches wide,
and, when doubled, should appear three inches deep.
The narrow side of the pantaloons is the front; that
is to say, the side which, in the small example, appears
uppermost. The back of the pantaloons which, from
not having any piece sloped out at FG, is the fullest,
must be set into a narrower band; this band should be
only eleven inches wide. By not being quite so wide as
the front band, it allows a good deal of fullness in the
back of the pantaloons. This fullness must be regularly
plaited into the band. A breadth of nankeen, twenty-
four inches long, will make bands for three pair of pan-
taloons; as the depth of each band, namely, six inches,
allows three bands to be cut out of the width of the
nankeen; and the width of two bands, one twelve and a
half inches, and the other eleven, will cut out of the
length; namely, twenty-four inches, and will allow a
little turning in.

C 2

20

NIGHT CAPS, FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS
OF AGE,

Made of cambric muslin, measuring yard wide.

A quarter and half quarter of cambric muslin will make
two caps.

They must be half yard wide:—fold back for the head-
piece four and a half inches; then pin on the pattern
of the Foundling cap (Plate VI, Figure 2), and cut it
exactly, only observe it will be an inch deeper at BB.
It must be made up the same as the other Foundling
caps, only without runners, being double in the head-
piece. Trim the cap with a narrow trimming of cam-
bric; a yard and a half will trim a cap. If the child has
a large head, the pattern (Plate VII, Figure 2), may
answer better. The reason the third size is likely to fit,
is that not having any runners in the night caps, they
are the whole depth of the pattern, and no fullness is
required round the head as in a day cap.

NIGHT GOWNS FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS
OF AGE.

They should be made of calico three quarters of a
yard wide.

Thirteen yards and a quarter will make six gowns
complete.

First cut off six breadths, each fourteen inches long.
Each of these breadths will make one pair of sleeves
and one collar. Cut from the width of each of these

NIGHT GOWNS.

21

breadths six inches for the collar, and the rest of the
width makes the two sleeves, which will thus be four-
teen inches long, and about ten and a half inches wide.
Slope the sleeve a little at the wrist, (which will preclude
the necessity of gathering it into a wristband,) about an
inch at the bottom, and sloped to nothing at the elbow.

Having thus cut out the sleeves and collars, proceed
to take from the remainder of the thirteen yards and
quarter, two breadths, each four and a half inches; cut
these two breadths into six pieces, which will make the
twelve sleeve gussets, four and a half inches square;
then cut two other breadths only two and a quarter
inches deep, and cut them into squares for the twelve
neck gussets: there will be a little bit left after the
twelve gussets are cut out, but it is a very small piece,
and cannot be avoided unless twelve night gowns are
cut out at a time, and then there need be only one
breadth, two and a quarter inches deep, to the second
half dozen gowns.

Nothing now remains to be done except to cut the re-
mainder of the calico into six pieces for the bodies of
the night gowns; they are to be folded from selvage to
selvage, across the middle, like a man's shirt; and, in
like manner, must be cut open down the front about
eleven inches, and must be cut across the top so as to
leave the shoulder-straps entire, four inches and a half
long.

Set in the collar gussets, and gather the fullness of the
top of the gown into the collar, precisely like a man's
shirt. The top of the collar should be trimmed with
muslin, two inches deep and a yard in fullness. Set
the sleeves quite plain into the armholes. Stitch a
broad hem at the bottom of the sleeves and make a

c. 3

22

SPENCERS.

button-hole in it. Set the button more or less back as the size of the child's wrists may require.

## SPENCERS FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO YEARS OF AGE.

One yard and six inches of cambric muslin, or any material measuring about thirty-two inches wide, will make two spencers.

Cut off a breadth eight inches and a half long, this will cut into one body, (see *Plate XIII*, *Figure 3*), and one collar; the dotted straight line shews how the collar (*Figure 2*) may be cut, that pattern is a quarter of a collar. Being double, and made in four pieces, there is necessarily a join in the front of the collar; in the plate the cambric is supposed to be doubled, thus two pieces of the collar are cut at the same time. The spencer is, of course, open behind:—join the collar by the narrow ends, thus the collar will fit close under the child's chin. To make the body, stitch the lines *A* and *B* together for the shoulder-straps. Gather the back so as to set each side into two inches of the collar behind. The front, as far as the turn *C*, must also be gathered, and set into the rest of the collar, so as to put the curve *CDE* plain in, otherwise the spencer will not set well; of course, the body must be set into the straight side of the collar. The bottom of the spencer must have a hem and a drawing-string; the back broad hemmed for buttons and button holes. The collar must also have two buttons to fasten it round the neck; and a thick

SPENCERS.

23

cotton should be drawn in round the edges to give it stiffness, and make it set neatly round the throat.

Having thus cut out one body, take a strip off the width of the remaining cambric eight inches and a half wide, this will make the second body; then divide the length of the yet remaining piece in half, and each piece will make a pair of sleeves, (see *Plate XIV*, *Figure 1*). As the sleeves should be cut rather across the cambric, the reader will do well to cut a whole sleeve in paper from the pattern of the sleeve, and pin it across the cambric, so as to admit of cutting the sleeves one out of the other. In setting the sleeves into the body, of course, the hollowed part of the sleeve is to be put towards the front. The seam in the sleeve must be put nearly opposite the shoulder-seam; that is, somewhat to the front of the spencer, instead of being quite under the arm. The fullness of the sleeves must be put into plaits on each side the seam of the shoulder-strap; but, in making the spencer, it is little trouble to fit the sleeve on to the child before it is fixed in, and thus, by following these directions, there can be no difficulty. A button, and loop of bobbin, to go round the wrist, an inch and a half from the bottom of the sleeve, must be fixed to the seam.

By cutting the spencers thus, one body will be made the width, and the other the length, of the cambric, but they will both look and wear equally well. Trim the collars with muslin.

c 4

A WALKING COAT FOR A CHILD ABOUT TWO
YEARS OLD.

One yard and three quarters will make a complete
coat, if made of a material measuring ell-wide. This
is the usual width of Salisbury flannel.

One breadth, and a third of another, will make the
coat sufficiently wide; therefore, after dividing the cloth
into two breadths, cut, from one, a strip fifteen inches
wide, this is for the back breadth of the coat; then
split the whole breadth down the middle for the fronts.
Pin the pattern, *Plate XV*, (which is for the fronts of
the coat,) on to the half breadths. *A* is a lappel; *C*, the
shoulder-strap, which must be joined to the shoulder-strap
*C*, in *Plate XVI*. When the fronts of the coat are
cut out, continue the line *B*; all the rest of the width
of the cloth, which will be about ten and a half inches.
Having cut out the fronts of the coat, proceed to cut
the back, for which purpose, fold the strip down the
middle, and pin the pattern (*Plate XVI*), on to it, so
as to put the middle of the back to the folded part
of the cloth, as there must not be any seam down the
middle of the back of the coat. Join the little seam
under the arm (*D*) with the correspondent seam in the
front.

The line *B* is to form a fold upon the hips; but to
prevent its being too full, the best way is to gore off a
piece from the front breadth, three inches wide at the
top, slope it to nothing at the bottom of the coat. As
the slope will be very trifling, the seam will join equally
well with the back breadth. When the two seams are
joined up, put the fullness in plaits under the arm, in
the inside of the coat. There must be a double collar

FROCKS,

quite straight; cut, for this purpose, a piece thirteen
inches wide, and seven inches deep, as the collar must,
when doubled, be three and a half inches deep; this
will cut from the pieces left in cutting out the sleeves.
The collar reaches no further than the star * (Plate
XV). Cut the sleeves by the *Plate XVII*: they must be
cut across the cloth. Sometimes the lappels are lined or
faced with the same, which will cut out of the hol-
lowings, &c. which must remain after cutting out the
sleeves and collar. Put a band round the waist. I am
aware there might be less bits left, after cutting out the
coat, were several cut out at a time; but, in private fa-
milies, they are seldom wanted of the same size in
greater numbers.

FROCKS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OF AGE.

My study in these patterns, and directions, being to
combine simplicity of shape with economy; at the same
time, never losing sight of what may be most grace-
ful when completed, I shall omit all fancy dresses for
children, and merely describe such frocks as, in my own
opinion, unite those advantages.

To make the frocks, (Plate XVIII, Figure 1). One
yard and three quarters of cambric, measuring yard and
quarter wide, will make two frocks. First cut off a
breadth four and a half inches long, this will make the
two pair of sleeves (Plate XVIII, Figure 2). The sleeves
must be cut out one at a time, as they must be cut, al-
ternately, one up and one down, to get sufficient width
for them;—this will be evident when the paper pattern
and the material are before the reader. The bottom

26

PROCKS.

of the sleeve to be set into a narrow band of worked muslin, not quite eight inches long. Having cut out the sleeves, divide the remainder of the cambric muslin into two breadths, one for each frock. The body, shoulder-straps, and skirt, being in one piece. Leave the seam open behind, about ten inches. When the cambric is thus joined, measure from the middle, or front of the frock, where there is no seam, seven inches, and lay the cambric into two plaits; each folded about two inches. Let the plaits meet each other—these are to give fullness to the skirt, under the arm. Tack these plaits slightly some distance down the frock, then pin on the paper pattern and cut out the shoulder-straps, bosom, and arm-holes: the size of the paper, not allowing the whole of the pattern, the reader will observe the front is quite exact, and the top of the back AA, is to be continued quite straight to the selvages. Join the top of the shoulder-straps together, and set the top of the frock into a narrow band of worked muslin, about twenty-eight inches long.

Sew the bosom and shoulder-straps quite plain into the band, and gather all the fullness of the back into the rest. A running string at the top of the band makes the frock fit exactly. When the arm-holes are cut out, stitch the plaits under the arms, one inch and a half, or more, if the waist is required longer. At the length of the waist put a tape just broad enough for a runner. Set in the sleeve, putting the fullness at the top of the shoulder. The frock should be tied with a band, or sash, the same as the band at the bosom. The band should be cut to the size of the child's waist, and sewed to two pieces of cambric muslin, each about a quarter of a yard long, and about three inches wide, for a bow behind; of course, as the bow will be wider than the

MORNING DRESSES.

27

band, it must be laid in plaits, and sewed or stitched strongly to the band. Fix a button on the shoulder-straps of the stays, and make a button-hole in the shoulder-straps of the frock; also a button on the back of the stays, and a button-hole on each side of the back of the frock, (either at the bottom of the waist of the frock, or at the top;) to keep the dress in its place, the two button-holes being put on to one button.

MORNING DRESSES, TO FASTEN ROUND THE THROAT, FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OLD,

May be made of cambric muslin, about yard and half wide, as one breadth will then be sufficiently full, and there will consequently be only one seam, which seam will go down the back of the dress. The body and skirt may be in one piece. The body looks particularly neat, if it is made quite plain down the front, and on each side a great many of the smallest plaits, or tucks, possible to be run. The plain stripe, or space, down the front of the body, should be about two inches and a half wide. The best way is to fold the cambric, which is for the dress, down the middle; the cambric must be yard long,—then, with a black lead pencil, mark the shape of the front of the dress (Plate XIX), make what plaits may be thought proper; the reason for making the pattern thus, is to avoid unnecessary work, as there is no use in doing the plaits in the piece to be hollowed out. Having made the plaits, or tucks, pin on the paper pattern, and fold over a plait under the arm about two inches, to give fullness on the hips, at C; then cut out the arm-holes, backs, and front of the dress.

28

PANTALOONS.

Cut the line AA, to the length you wish to make the waist, probably about six inches and a half, and cut out the rest of the cambric along the line BB, to the plait under the arm. Gather the fullness into the bottom of the back, or set it in large plaits. The little tucks in front, the plaits under the arms, and the gathers at the bottom of the back, must, of course, be exactly at the length you like to make the waist. Cut the collar by the pattern, (Plate XIII, Figure 2), only a little wider round the throat. The sleeves must be twenty inches long. Cut the hollowing at the top, by the Plate VI, Figure 3. The sleeve must be sloped gradually till it becomes only six inches and a half wide at the wrist. Three pair of sleeves may be cut out of the width of the cambric muslin, by cutting the sleeves one out of the other. There will be no fullness where the dress is set into the collar; put a tape runner to draw the waist. A cord of cotton makes the sash.

PANTALOONS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS
OF AGE

Should be made of cambric muslin, or fine calico. The material should measure about a yard and two nails wide, and is called yard and quarter wide.

Three quarters of a yard will make a pair of pantaloons. The best way of cutting out being to have an exact paper pattern to pin on to the material to be converted, and the limits of this work not allowing a plate of the size of half a pantaloon, it is advisable for the reader to provide herself with a couple of sheets of cap paper joined together, so as to be about three

PANTALOONS.

29

quarters of a yard long, and ten and a half inches wide; then, from the width, cut out the piece (Figure 1, Plate XX), for the hollowing between the legs; then, folding the width of the cambric muslin in four, pin on the paper pattern, so that the selvages may run down the side from whence the hollowing is cut, as, by this means, there will be no join down the outside of the leg. Cut out the piece for the hollowing between the legs. When the pantaloons are thus far cut out, unpin the paper pattern, and, as the pantaloons require less fullness before than behind, pin on the paper pattern (Plate XX, Figure 2), to the two selvages. Of course, the point must be downwards towards the hollowing for the legs. Cut off the piece, then fold the pantaloons to assume this appearance:

there will be no seam down the middle behind. Cut a slit on each side from A to B, about nine inches long. Slope the top of the pantaloons about two inches deep at the slit, and so gradually to nothing; this makes them fit well at the hips. Set the front into a double band, two and a half inches deep when set on; and about twelve inches wide. The back into a band of the

30

DRAWERS AND STAYS.

same depth, but only ten and a half inches wide:—the
fullness behind must be rather most towards the middle;
in the front, the fullness must be all towards the hips.
The bands may, by having one join in them, be made
out of the hollowings of the pantaloons. To avoid un-
necessary repetition, the reader will refer, for further
particulars as to making the pantaloons, to page 18.

DRAWERS AND STAYS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS
OF AGE

May be joined together, and this will render the length
of waist the same as for a child of two years old; they
must be made the length of the stay cord; and the depth
of two pair of stays will cut out of the width, (as in
page 14). The stays must be twenty-six inches wide;
therefore, three quarters of a yard will make two pair of
stays. The shoulder-straps must be made of tape. For
the pattern of the stays, (see Plate X, Figure 1). Line
the stays with callico.

The drawers will not require bands, as the stays will
form a band. They may be made by the directions,
(page 15); only they should be about three inches longer;
and round the bottom of the leg should be allowed
about an inch and a half wider. Two yards, quarter,
and nail, will make three pair of drawers.

31

SHIFTS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OF AGE.

Nothing differs more in width than Irish; but, by en-
quiring the real measure of the cloth, any lady may be
served with the width she most approves; and should
there be an inch difference in the width of this sized
shift, it will be of no consequence. The shifts should
be about three quarters of a yard long, and the sleeves
three inches and a half long. Four yards and three
quarters of yard-wide Irish will make six shifts; one
breadth to a shift. As it is less trouble, and does equally
well, the shifts need not be gored. Cut off four
breadths, each three inches and a half deep:—these
breadths will each make three sleeves. Divide the rest
of the cloth into six breadths, for the shift bodies; sew
up the selvages, leaving in the seam an arm-hole, six
inches and a half long, and a flap, for the bottom of
the shift, about seven and a half inches long. Thus
there will be a seam only on one side of the shift;
on the opposite side cut an arm-hole and flap. The
gussets for the sleeves and flaps will cut out of the hol-
lowing of the bosom. Set the sleeves in plain, or with
only two or three gathers on the shoulders, in which
case the arm-hole may be half an inch shorter. I usually
slit down the back of the bosom about three inches, and
then the shifts may be slightly tacked into the stays,
which keeps the child's dress particularly neat. For the
hollowing of the bosom, (see Plate X, Figure 3).

## SPENCERS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OF AGE

May be made by the directions, page 22, (Plate XIII,) only the bodies must be ten inches long, and cut at the arm-hole and bosom by the dotted lines in Plate XIII, Figure 1. The sleeves also must be cut three inches and a half longer, and an inch and a quarter wider, unless for a very large child; then two inches will not be too much. As the size of the plates will not admit of my giving a full pattern of the sleeve, I shall only shew how the top must be cut; the rest being easily done by cutting the pattern (Plate XIV, Figure 1), three inches and a half longer, and an inch and a quarter wider. For the shape of the top of the sleeve, (see Plate XIV, Figure 2). The collar should be an inch and an half longer, and somewhat deeper than in Plate XIII, Figure 2.

## NIGHT CAP FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OF AGE.

Three quarters of a yard of cambric muslin, full yard wide, will make four night caps.

The width of two caps being cut out of the width of the cambric, and the length of two caps out of the length of the cambric; therefore, divide the length in half, fold back a piece for the head-piece, and dividing the strips each into two parts, pin on the pattern (Plate IX, Figure 1), and cut out the caps very exactly. Trim them with a yard and three quarters of Dutch lace, or

## WOMENS' NIGHT CAPS.

cambric. Join on a small strip of cambric muslin, or a bit of fine tape, to make a runner at the back of the cap.

## NIGHT GOWNS FOR A GIRL ABOUT FIVE YEARS OLD.

The night gowns must be made like those for a child of two years old (see page 20), except that they must be longer, and also the sleeves must be somewhat longer and wider. They must be made of calico, three quarters of a yard wide. Fifteen yards will make six night gowns complete. First cut off six breadths, sixteen inches long; each breadth will make two pair of sleeves, and one collar. Cut from the width of each of these breadths, four inches for the depth of the collar; thus, allowing the sleeves to be rather more than eleven inches wide. After cutting out the sleeves, take off from what remains of the calico, two breadths, four inches and a half deep, for the sleeve gussets; and two breadths, two inches and a quarter deep, for the collar gussets; then divide the rest of the calico into six pieces, and make the night gowns by the directions (page 21).

## WOMENS' NIGHT CAPS.

The best width of muslin for a womans' night cap, (see the annexed figure,) is that which measures full yard wide.

Two yards and a half will make six night caps.

D

34

WOMENS' NIGHT CAPS.

First, cut off two breadths, each fifteen inches deep. Each breadth cuts into three cap cawls, they being fifteen inches long, and twelve inches wide. Then cut fifteen breadths, each four inches deep; three of these breadths, divided in half, will make the six inner head pieces. Join the twelve remaining breadths, two and two together, by the selvage: this will make the head piece and band in one piece, the joining being at the top of the head at D. The cap is drawn small, to give the reader a clear idea of the manner of making it.

The figure above represents the cap, before the top of the cawl (C) is gathered into the head piece (D). A bobbin had better run in from A, and come out on the opposite side, at B, and vice versa, as the cap will thus set close to the head. The cap should be trimmed the length of the head piece, with a double border, two and a half inches deep, including lace. One breadth of muslin in each border. Some slope the ends of the border, towards the ears, rather narrower than the rest of the border, which has a neat effect. The ends of the bands should be trimmed with a frill, not quite two inches deep. One breadth will trim both ends. For the rounding of the cawl, (see Plate XVI).

35

## SHIFTS FOR WOMEN.

It is now become very much the fashion to use fine calico for shifts, instead of Irish. The calico should be full yard wide. Irish, however, may also be had of the same width.

The shifts should be yard and a quarter long; one breadth and half in each shift. The sleeves six inches long—three sleeves in a breadth.

To make the shift body, sew the half breadth into the whole one, in the manner of a bag. When this is done, pin the two seams together quite exactly, and fold the shift across to cut the gores, so that when folded, one side will measure eleven inches, and the other sixteen.

The figure represents the shift with its seams joined and pinned together. AA represents one of the seams, the other being exactly under it. BB the line in which the shifts must be cut across. The sleeve gussets cut out of the bosom, for the hollowing of which, (see Plate XXI, Figure 2). The gussets must be full five inches square. The arm-hole ten and a half inches long; the sleeves gathered in towards the top of the arm-hole.

D 2

36 NIGHT SHIFTS FOR WOMEN.

Thus made, twenty-three yards and three quarters will
make twelve shifts.

Should the sleeves be thought too small, they may be
made only two in a breadth, and then twenty-four yards
and a half will make a dozen shifts. In this case,
the sleeve must be gathered into the arm-hole.

NIGHT SHIFTS FOR WOMEN

Should be made of full yard wide callico, or Irish.

Twenty-two yards will make six shifts.

First, cut off a breadth two yards and six inches
long. Divide this into six breadths; each breadth will
make one pair of sleeves.

Then cut off a breadth sixteen inches long; divide
the width of this into six for the six collars.

Afterwards, cut off a breadth, half a yard long; divide
this into three breadths, and each breadth will produce
six gussets; thus there will be eighteen gussets—twelve
for the sleeves, and six, which cut in half, will make the
twelve neck gussets; as they are made single, conse-
quently one square will make two gussets. Slope off
from the bottom of the sleeves a small piece to make
the wrists, not more than seven and a half inches wide;
let the slope go off gradually at the elbow.

Having thus cut out the sleeves, collars, and gussets,
divide the rest of the cloth into twelve breadths; two
to each shift body. Sew up the seams, and pin them
exactly together, then cut them across as in the direc-
tions (page 35), only the line AA will be exactly in

NIGHT JACKETS.

37

the middle of the cloth; and, in cutting the cross line
BB, the narrow end must be about ten inches wide,
and the broad end eighteen. Sew up the sloped sides,
leaving a place for the arm-hole, ten and a half inches
long; then join the shoulder-straps three and a half
inches long. Join them by folding them about half
an inch over, and stitch them in two rows. The sleeves
must be gathered and set in to the arm-hole. Slit down
the front of the shift fourteen inches, set the collar on as
a man's shirt; trim the collar, the bosom (where it is
split down), and sleeves. The sleeves must be open
about four inches at the wrist, and should have the least
gussets possible, to prevent splitting up. They cut from
the sloping of the sleeves.

NIGHT JACKETS

May be made of cambric muslin, or fine callico, mea-
suring not quite yard wide; three yards and three quar-
ters will make two complete jackets. Divide the quan-
tity into five equally long breadths; one breadth split will
make the two backs; two of the breadths will make the
four fronts, and the other two breadths the sleeves and
collars. And first, for the backs—after the breadth is
split, fold each piece down the middle, and from the
outside cut the shoulder-straps and arm-holes; thus there
will be no seam down the middle of the back, (see *Plate
XXII. Figure 1*).

As the fronts are straight before, cut from the op-
posite sides to the selvages, the shoulder-straps and arm-
holes (Plate XXII. Figure 2.) join the seams A and B to-
gether under the arms.

D·3

38

MEN'S SHIRTS.

Lastly, for the sleeves and collars. The sleeves will be three-quarters of a yard long; they must be eight and a half inches wide at the bottom, and from A to A, in Plate XXIII. Figure 3, they must measure sixteen and a half inches. The dotted line, in Plate XXIII. shews the square of the cloth, and by cutting the side B almost straight with the selvage, the sleeve, when cut out, will appear cross way of the callico. The sleeves cut one out of the other, and thus leave sufficient for the collar; which, when doubled to put into the jacket, must be four inches deep and seventeen inches wide. In setting in the sleeve, observe to put the seam about two inches forwarder than the seam of the jacket, under the arm. The fullness of the sleeve must be at the top of the shoulder, and towards the back, being set in plaits. The top of the jacket is quite straight where it is set into the collar. Observe, between the shoulder-straps the back must be set in about seven inches and a half, and what fullness there is, must be gathered into the middle of the back; the fronts gathered equally from the shoulder-straps. A welt should be set on to the waist at the back, to draw the jacket into shape behind. The sleeves may be hemmed at bottom; button them round the wrists. The collar drawn in two places; both collar and wrists trimmed.

MEN'S SHIRTS

Should be made of Irish, which really measures yard wide; it is usually sold in pieces, measuring from twenty-five to twenty-six yards long.

39

MEN'S SHIRTS.

A piece, nearly twenty-six yards long, will (unless a man is very tall) make eight shirts, cut as follows :—

First, *Cut off five yards and half a quarter of a yard*
For the eight pair of sleeves, divide this in eight breadths; each breadth will be one pair of sleeves, as each sleeve must be half a yard wide and about twenty-three inches long.

Secondly, *Cut off one yard,*
This will make six collars, as they must be half a yard long; so that the length of two will cut out of the length of the cloth; and the width of three, out of the width of the cloth.

Thirdly, *Cut off twelve inches,*
This will make six pair of sleeve gussets, as they must be six inches square; thus there will be two in the length, and six in the width of the cloth.

Fourthly, *Cut off half a yard*
For six pair of wristbands; they must be nine inches long, and six wide. Thus there will be two in the length, and six in the width of the cloth.

Fifthly, *Cut off ten inches and a half*
For the six pair of shoulder-straps; they must be three inches wide. So that the twelve will cut from the width of the cloth.

Sixthly, *Cut off half a yard and half a quarter*
For the six pair of sleeve binders; they must be three inches wide; and thus twelve will cut out of the width of the cloth.

Seventhly, *Cut off a breadth six inches long*
For the neck and side gussets; which must be both of a size, namely, three inches square. Thus two cut out of the length, and twelve out of the width of the cloth.

Eighthly, *Cut off one yard*
For the pieces wanting to complete the eight shirts;

D 4

40

MEN'S SHIRTS.

namely, two collars, two pair of sleeve gussets, two pair of shoulder-straps, two pair of sleeve binders, two pair of wristbands, two pair of side gussets, and two pair of neck gussets. Cut them by the following example—supposed yard square:

<table><tbody><tr><td colspan="3">Selvage.</td><td colspan="3">12 inches.</td></tr><tr><td rowspan="2">18 inches<br>1 collar.</td><td colspan="2">18 inches<br>1 collar.</td><td colspan="3">6 in.</td></tr><tr><td>9 inch.<br>1 wristband.</td><td>9 inch.<br>1 wristband.</td><td>9 inch.<br>1 wristband.</td><td>9 inch,<br>1 wrist-<br>land.</td><td>6 in.</td></tr><tr><td rowspan="2">9 inch.<br>1 wristband.</td><td colspan="2">22½ inches,<br>Sleeve-binders,</td><td colspan="3">10½ inches.<br>Shoulder-strap.</td></tr><tr><td>Ditto.</td><td>Ditto.</td><td>Ditto.</td><td>Ditto.</td><td>3 in.</td></tr><tr><td>Neck-<br>gusset.</td><td>do.</td><td>do.</td><td>do.</td><td>3 in.</td><td>3 in.</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2"></td><td>Ditto.</td><td>Sleeve-<br>Gussets.</td><td>Sleeve-<br>Gussets.</td><td>3 in.</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2"></td><td>A</td><td>Sleeve-<br>Gussets.</td><td>Sleeve-<br>Gussets.</td><td>6 inches.</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2"></td><td></td><td>6 inches.</td><td>6 inches.</td><td>6 inches.</td></tr></tbody></table>

Then divide the rest of the cloth into eight pieces, for the eight shirt bodies, and they will be about two yards and half a quarter long; and there will be out of the whole piece only that small bit marked A in the above example, unemployed.

*Note*.—Be sure there are twenty-six yards in the piece before you cut out the shirts.

41

A MAN'S NIGHT CAP,

Made of fine cambric muslin, yard and a half wide. They must be half a yard long, and the width of the cambric will make two caps. They are merely a straight piece of linen joined together, and then hemmed at the top and bottom. When this is done, run a welt in the muslin itself, for a strong bobbin, two inches from the edge; this being drawn, makes a kind of tassel at the top of the head. Then, about an inch and a half from the edge of the other side of the cap, run on a broad piece, about an inch wide, to make a runner. This must be on the outside of the cap, and having two broad button holes in the inside of the cap, for a tape string to come through, the cap is finished. When put on, turn back three or four inches of the front of the cap, and draw the broad running string tight round the head; thus there will be a sort of border round the face. When the cap is washed, untie the bobbin at the top, and the cap is quite flat.

44

CAPS FOR INFANTS.

the pattern of the night-cap, and the hollowing of the
shirt bosoms, are to be found exact, and of the full size
(Plate XXIII. Fig. 1 and 2).

Note. Some persons disapprove the use of cambric muslin for poor infants' shirts; but as want of cleanliness in the parents is the only real cause of objection, the advantage in warmth, price, and quality, should be considered.

CAPS FOR INFANTS.

One yard and a quarter of cambric muslin, called
nine-eighths, but measuring about forty-nine and a half
inches, will make fourteen caps, cut in the following
manner.

Four breadths, eleven and a quarter inches deep each
breadth, divided as in the following example:—

<table><thead><tr><th></th><th>14 in.</th><th>14 in.</th><th>14 in.</th><th>7&frac12; in.</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><th>1&frac12; in.</th><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>&frac12; cap</td></tr><tr><th>1&frac34; in.</th><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>&frac14; cap</td></tr><tr><th>1&frac12; in.</th><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>&frac12; cap</td></tr><tr><th>1&frac14; in.</th><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>1 cap</td><td>&frac14; cap</td></tr></tbody></table>

FROCKS FOR INFANTS.

45

The four half caps will make night caps, as per *Plate XXIII*, *Figure 1*, as that shape may be joined over the top of the head. The other caps may be cut either as night caps, or according to the pattern (*Plate XXIV*, *Figure 1*).

The caps trimmed with Dutch lace, which saves much work, and looks full as well as a muslin border. One yard will trim this sized cap.

Of course the reader will perceive that half a yard and two nails will make seven caps.

FROCKS FOR INFANTS.

Four yards and three quarters of print, (three quarters of a yard wide), will make three frocks.

First cut off one breadth, a quarter of a yard deep—this will make three pair of sleeves, being split to make two breadths, each four and a half inches deep—three sleeves in each breadth, each sleeve being by this means four and a half inches long and nine inches wide. (See *Plate XXV*, *Figure 3*). The remaining four and a half yards, divide into three breadths, and each of these breadths will make a frock-skirt and body; each body being one breadth wide, and four inches and a half long; (see *Plate XXV*, *Figure 1*). There will be two breadths in each skirt, which skirts will, by this means, be about twenty-five inches long. For the shoulder-straps, the best way is to cut from one breadth of each skirt one inch and a half down the selvage, this will make two pair of shoulder-straps: and the difference of one inch and a half in the width of the skirt will be of no consequence. It will be ob-

46

## BED GOWNS FOR INFANTS.

vious to the reader, that the third frock may have the
whole width of the print in the skirt, as a strip from
two of the frocks will be more than sufficient for the
three pair of shoulder-straps, as they should be about
five inches long.

When the shoulder-strap is joined in; hem the top and bottom of the body to admit a tape; and also the bottoms of the sleeves may be hemmed, to admit a drawing string.

### BED GOWNS FOR INFANTS.

Seven yards and a quarter will make six complete bed gowns, three quarters of a yard long.

Take off half a yard for the six pair of sleeves, which
half yard must be divided into four breadths; each
breadth making three sleeves four and a half inches
long, and nine inches wide. The sleeves must be made
like shift sleeves, with little gussets one inch and a half
square; they will cut out of the hollowing of the bo-
soms.

Having cut off the sleeves, the remaining six yards
and three quarters must be cut into nine breadths;
each bed gown requiring one breadth and a half. Three
of the breadths must be split down the middle to make
the six half breadths for the gores.

Fold the half breadths down the middle, to cut the
gores by the following example:—

47

## FLANNEL BLANKETS.

The half breadth doubled.

The whole breadths will make the backs and fronts of
the bed gowns; for instance, cut the whole breadths
in half, and one half will make the back, and the
other, split, will make the two fronts of each bed gown;
then join in the sloped sides of the gores down the sides
of the bed gown; of course the bed gowns will be
open down the middle. For the hollowing of the bo-
som, (see Plate XXIV, Figure 2). The bosom must
be drawn with a tape, and also the bottoms of the
sleeves. The sleeves must be set in rather full at the
top of the shoulder. The arm-hole about five and a
half inches long.

### FLANNEL BLANKETS.

For the lower class of infants, a yard of flannel bound
with white ferret, answers every purpose. I think good
white baize is a very proper material, as it usually runs
rather wider than flannel; being called yard wide, and
measures nearly thirty-four inches. It is also cheaper.

## ROLLERS,

Are a band usually worn over the blanket. They may be made of coarse thin calico.

Rollers ought to be about five inches wide, and yard and quarter long. Cut them the length of the calico to avoid seams.

One yard and a quarter will make five rollers, as coarse calico usually runs nearly twenty-five inches wide, and is called three quarters wide. The edges neatly herring-boned down.

Though, perhaps, rather foreign to my purpose, I trust parents will excuse a hint on the subject of rollers, which is of great consequence to their infants. Nurses are apt to bind the roller tight round a child's body, thus stopping the circulation in a great degree, and rendering that highly prejudicial, which (if properly used) tends to warm and support the body of a tender baby.

## STAYS AND PETTICOATS.

The upper petticoats should be made of the same coloured linen as the frock. The petticoat half-yard and half-quarter long. A breadth and a half to a petticoat.

Ten yards will make eight petticoats, without bands; and one yard more will complete them, by cutting it into six strips, about four and a half inches long, which

BED GOWNS FOR WOMEN.

being joined together, will make eight bands, with which the petticoats are to be bound.

The stays will be more convenient if the flannel coats are joined into them. As flannel shrinks very much, the flannel petticoat may be cut the same length as the upper petticoat. One breadth of baize joined, and cut across for the gores, is sufficient. When the baize is joined fold it six inches at one side, and eleven at the other, to cut it across, so that when cut, the top of each breadth will appear twelve inches wide, and the bottom twenty-two inches.

The stays may be made of dimity which is called three-quarters wide, but measures about twenty-five inches.

One yard will make five pair of stays.

Cut the dimity into four breadths, join them by the selvage, very neatly, and cut them after they are joined into pieces twenty inches long. This will make the five pair of stays. The stays must be of double dimity, so that when folded, they will appear about twenty inches wide, and half a quarter of a yard deep. There will, therefore, be no seam at the top of the back, (see *Plate XXVI*, *Figure 2*). The shoulder-straps quite straight, fixed to the front, and merely tacked into the back of the stays, at *a* and *b*, as they may, by that means, be made to fit the child; the hollowing of the bosom will make them.

## FOR WOMENS' BED GOWNS.

Two yards and three quarters of coloured print, which measures about three quarters wide, will make a bed.

E

CALLICO NIGHT GOWNS FOR WOMEN.

50

gown for a woman; to go with the box of child-bed
linen.

First, half a yard for the sleeves, and a quarter of a
yard for the collar and wrist-bands, and also the sleeve
and collar gussets; thus there will be two yards left
for the body of the bed gown. Fold the two yards
across the middle as for a man's shirt.

Split the front breadth up the middle, exactly, and
cut a transverse slit four inches on each side from
the middle, into which set the collar gussets, and then
set it into the collar, which must be fifteen inches long.
Remember it is to be cut from the quarter of a yard
of print, so that it will be nine inches deep; then cut
the wristbands also from the width—they must be each
about two inches and three quarters wide, and nine in-
ches long. The rest of the quarter of a yard will make
the sleeve gussets, four and a half inches square, and
the collar gussets about two inches square.

The sleeves become long enough by being joined into
the stump sleeves left by the gores. Begin to cut the
gores below the arm-hole, which must be seven inches
long.

The gores must be cut one inch wide at the bottom
of the gown, and four and a half inches wide under the
arm-hole; thus, leaving a stump sleeve four and a half
inches long. The collar will set better if the back and
bosom of the bed gown are a little hollowed; of course,
the gores must be set into the opposite sides.

CALLICO NIGHT GOWNS FOR WOMEN

Must be made of calico, called three quarters wide, and
measures about twenty-four inches and three quarters.

SHIFTS.

51

One yard and three quarters will make the gown
complete.

Take off one breadth for the sleeves, thirteen inches
deep; half a breadth for each sleeve. The rest of the
callico folded, as in the coloured bed gown, which saves
a join on the shoulders. Begin to cut the gores about
six inches from the top of the gown, to leave stump
sleeves. The gores must be four inches wide at the top,
and sloped to nothing at the bottom. The gussets cut
from the hollowing of the bosom, (see Plate XXVI,
Figure 2). The bosom must be hemmed and have a run-
ning string through it; the bottom of the sleeves also
drawn by a tape.

SKIRTS,

Made of Irish, called three quarters wide. They will
require three breadths, and must be yard long, set into
a broad double band. One yard will make the band, as
it should be yard and a half wide, or long, and a quarter
of a yard deep when doubled, so that it will take two
breadths, half a yard deep. Set the skirt into the band
with small plaits, and leave about half a quarter of a
yard on each side of the band to pin over. There must
be a slit behind about thirteen or fourteen inches deep.

SHIFTS FOR CHILDREN FROM ONE TO TWO YEARS
OF AGE

Should be made of Irish, called three quarters wide, but
measures about twenty-six inches.

R 2

52 STAYS AND FLANNEL COATS.

Two yards will make three shift bodies.

Cut the Irish into four breadths, half yard long.
One breadth and a third of a breadth will be enough
for a shift.

For such small shifts it is unnecessary to gore them,
therefore, join the two seams; and, in one seam, leave
the depth of the arm-hole at the top, and at the bot-
tom three inches; thus making little flaps, like a man's
shirt. The bosom hollowed as per *Plate XXVII, Figure 3*.

By this means there will be a seam only on one side
of the shift, and one in the back. On the other side
the arm-hole and flap must be slit to their lengths.—
Put in little gussets at the flaps.

The sleeves for these shirts will take a quarter of a
yard, as each sleeve should be four and a half inches
long; and three sleeves will cut out of the width. They
must be sewed plain into the arm-hole. The gussets
from the hollowing of the bosom. Do not make the
arm-holes till the sleeves are made, and then they may
fit exactly.

*Note.* Two yards and a quarter will make three complete shifts.

STAYS AND FLANNEL COATS FOR CHILDREN, FROM
ONE TO TWO YEARS OF AGE.

The stays, made of dimity, the same as for infants,
only the arm-hole cut a little deeper than in *Plate
XXVI*. The length of the shoulder-strap making suf-
ficient difference for a child of a year and half to near
two years old.

NIGHT CAPS.

53

The flannel petticoat to be made of one breadth of
baize, half a yard long, cut as in page 48.

UPPER PETTICOATS FOR CHILDREN, FROM ONE TO
TWO YEARS OF AGE.

The most desirable mode is to make the petticoats of
the same material as the frocks. They must be cut half
a yard long, and should be a breadth and a half wide.
They should have bands of the same.

Six yards will make eight petticoats, without bands;
and seven yards will make the petticoats complete.

The width of the yard being cut into six strips, down
the selvage, and all these strips joined together, cut the
piece, so joined, into eight lengths, and these lengths
will be bands, four and a half inches deep, and about
twenty and a half inches long; so, that when bound
on the petticoats, the bands will appear about two
inches deep.

NIGHT CAPS FOR CHILDREN, FROM ONE TO TWO
YEARS OF AGE.

In making clothing for the poor, I have endeavoured
to consider not only what may be most useful, but also
what may be made with the greatest ease, the least work,
and smallest expence.

For night caps, the pattern, (*Plate XXI, Figure 1*),
will be found to answer particularly well, being very

E 3

54 PINCLOTHS.

warm, as the cap is double throughout, and also as the
border is formed by the cap.

One yard of yard-wide cambric muslin will make four caps.

Divide the cambric therefore into four pieces; these pieces will be square; fold each piece in four, and pin on the paper pattern, so that the folded part may go round the face, thus making the border double without being joined. In cutting the pattern, let the seam at the top, or round, go all the way, as the cap sets better, for the seam continuing over the top of the head quite to the front. Put a drawing-string where the runner is drawn, and fix it at A and B; the rest will then draw as a frill round the head.

This cap being double throughout, is very excellent for boys at school, and may easily be made larger from this pattern.

## PINCLOTHS FOR CHILDREN, FROM ONE TO TWO YEARS OF AGE,

Should be made of brown Holland, called seven-eighths wide, but measuring about twenty-nine inches and a half. They must be half a yard and half a quarter long, and one breadth wide.

Five yards will make eight pincloths.

Fold the width in quarters, and cut the arm-holes about six inches long. The bosom and shoulder-straps as per *Plate XXV, Figure 2*.

55

## FROCKS FOR CHILDREN FROM ONE TO TWO YEARS OF AGE.

One yard and a half of print, three quarters wide, will make a frock.

Cut off two strips the whole breadth, each five inches deep, and from one strip cut the sleeves each ten inches wide; this will leave a piece, which must be added to the other strip, to make the body sufficiently wide. Cut the body by the pattern, (*Plate XXVII, Figure 1*); the sleeves by the pattern, (*Plate XXVII, Figure 2*). The shoulder-straps may be made out of the hollowing of the bosom; they must be full one inch wide, and five inches long. Having cut out the body and sleeves, divide the rest of the linen in half. One breadth split will make the frock open behind, so that the skirt will be two breadths wide, with a seam on each side.

E 4

INDEX.

A.

PAGE

APPAREL for the Poor - - - - - - - 42

B.

Bed Gowns, for poor Infants - - - - - - 46

—, for poor Women - - - - - - - 49

Box, of Linen, to lend to the Poor - - - - - 42

C.

Caps, Under, for Infants - - - - - - - 2

—, Boy's, for Infants - - - - - - - 13

—, Foundling, for Infants - - - - - - - 9

—, Night, for Infants - - - - - - - ib.

—, Night, for a Child about two Years of Age - 20

—, Night, for a Girl about five Years of Age - 32

—, Night, for Women - - - - - - - 33

—, Night, for Men - - - - - - - 41

—, for poor Infants - - - - - - - 44

—, Night, for poor Children from one to two
Years of Age - - - - - - - - 53

—, Night, for School Boys - - - - - - - 54

Clothing for Children about two Years of Age - - 14

—, for a Girl about five Years of Age - - 25

D.

Drawers for a Child about two Years of Age - - 15

—, for a Girl about five Years of Age - - 30

Dresses for a Child about two Years of Age - - 17

—, Morning, for a Girl about five Years of Age 27

INDEX.

F.

PAGE

<table><tbody><tr><td>Flannel Blankets for poor Infants</td><td>47</td></tr><tr><td>Robe for Infants</td><td>4</td></tr><tr><td>Petticoats for Infants</td><td>6</td></tr><tr><td>Petticoat for poor Children from one to two Years old</td><td>52</td></tr><tr><td>Frocks for Infants</td><td>1</td></tr><tr><td>Three Quarters Clothing</td><td>11</td></tr><tr><td>for Girl about five Years old</td><td>25</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Infants</td><td>45</td></tr></tbody></table>

G.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Gowns, Night, for Infants</td><td>5</td></tr><tr><td>Night, for Three Quarters Clothing</td><td>13</td></tr><tr><td>Night, for a Child about two Years of Age</td><td>20</td></tr><tr><td>Night, for a Girl about five Years of Age</td><td>33</td></tr><tr><td>Calico, for poor Women</td><td>50</td></tr><tr><td>Bed, for poor Women</td><td>49</td></tr></tbody></table>

J.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Jackets, Night, for Women</td><td>37</td></tr></tbody></table>

M.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Morning Dresses for a Girl about five Years old</td><td>27</td></tr></tbody></table>

P.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Pantaloons for a Child about two Years of Age</td><td>18</td></tr><tr><td>for a Girl about five Years of Age</td><td>28</td></tr><tr><td>Petticoats, Flannel, for Infants</td><td>6</td></tr><tr><td>Upper, for Infants</td><td>ib.</td></tr><tr><td>Three Quarters Clothing</td><td>12</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Infants</td><td>48</td></tr><tr><td>Fannel, for poor Children from one to two Years old</td><td>52</td></tr><tr><td>Upper, for poor Children from one to two Years old</td><td>53</td></tr><tr><td>Pincloths for poor Children</td><td>54</td></tr><tr><td>Poor, Directions for their Clothing</td><td>42</td></tr></tbody></table>

R.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Rollers for poor Infants</td><td>48</td></tr></tbody></table>

INDEX.

S.

PAGE

<table><tbody><tr><td>Shifts, Three Quarters Clothing</td><td>11</td></tr><tr><td>for a Child about two Years old</td><td>14</td></tr><tr><td>for a Girl about five Years old</td><td>31</td></tr><tr><td>for Women</td><td>35</td></tr><tr><td>Night, for Women</td><td>36</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Children from one to two Years old</td><td>51</td></tr><tr><td>Shirts for Infants</td><td>7</td></tr><tr><td>for Men</td><td>38</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Infants</td><td>43</td></tr><tr><td>Stays for Infants</td><td>6</td></tr><tr><td>Three Quarters Clothing</td><td>12</td></tr><tr><td>for a Child about two Years old</td><td>14</td></tr><tr><td>for a Girl about five Years old</td><td>30</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Infants</td><td>48</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Children</td><td>52</td></tr><tr><td>Spencers for a Child about two Years of Age</td><td>22</td></tr><tr><td>for a Girl about five Years of Age</td><td>32</td></tr><tr><td>Skirts for poor Women</td><td>52</td></tr></tbody></table>

T.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Three Quarters Clothing</td><td>11</td></tr></tbody></table>

U.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Under Caps for Infants</td><td>2</td></tr><tr><td>Upper Petticoats for Infants</td><td>6</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Infants</td><td>48</td></tr><tr><td>for poor Children from one to two Years old</td><td>53</td></tr></tbody></table>

W.

<table><tbody><tr><td>Walking Coat for a Child about two Years old</td><td>24</td></tr></tbody></table>

BOOKS LATELY PUBLISHED.

A NEW SYSTEM OF DOMESTIC COOKERY, formed upon PRINCIPLES of ECONOMY, and adapted to the Use of Private Families. Comprising also, the Art of CARVING, Observations on the Management of the DAIRY, and POULTRY YARD; Instructions for HOME BREWERY, WINES, &c.; COOKERY for the SICK, and for the POOR; many very useful MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, and DIRECTIONS proper to be given to SERVANTS both in Town and Country. To which is prefixed, an ESSAY on DOMESTIC ECONOMY, and HUSBAND MANAGEMENT, containing many Observations which will be found exceedingly useful to the Mistress of a Family. BY A LADY. A NEW EDITION, in a neat and closely printed Volume, containing Ten useful Plates. Foolscap 8vo. 7s. 6d.

"This is really one of the most practically useful books of any which we have seen on the subject. The Lady who has written it, has not studied how to form expensive articles for luxurious tables, but to combine elegance with economy. She has given her directions in a plain sensible manner that every body can understand; and these are not confined merely to cookery, but are extended to a variety of objects in use in families; by which means the utility of the book is very much increased indeed. —Anti-Jacobin Review, Aug. 1807, Vol. XXVII. p. 433.

"We will conclude with the mention of a Lady's book on Cookery, which, because our account of it was jocular, some readers have supposed we meant to slight. This was by no means the case. We considered cookery as an art not demanding a grave discussion from grave men, but the book we believe to be a good one; and more practically useful than most that have appeared, especially for private families."—British Critic, Jan. 1808, p. xix. Preface to Vol. XXX.

TO THE BINDER.

There are Twenty-seven Engravings.—To be placed at the End of the Book.

2. THE WORKS OF MRS. CHAPONE; containing—LETTERS on the IMPROVEMENT of the MIND.—MISCELLANIES in PROSE and VERSE.—CORRESPONDENCE with Mr. RICHARDSON on the Subject of Parental Authority and Filial Obedience.—A Series of LETTERS to Mrs. ELIZABETH CARTER.—And FUGITIVE PIECES. To these is prefixed, an authentic Life of the Author, drawn up by HER OWN FAMILY. 4 vols. Foolscap 8vo. 16s.

Mrs. Chapone's LETTERS on the MIND, and MISCELLANIES, may be purchased separately. Price 4s. each. And her POSTHUMOUS WORKS, 2 vols. Price 8s.

"We strongly recommend these volumes to the attention of young female readers in particular; as containing a fund of entertainment and instruction, which may in vain be looked for in many modern publications, repeated editions of which have been obtruded by fashion upon the public."—British Critic, Jan. 1808, p. 64. Vol. XXXI.

BOOKS LATELY PUBLISHED.

3. THE LADY'S LIBRARY; containing—I. Dr. GREGORY'S Fa-
ther's LEGACY to his Daughters.—II. LADY PENNINGTON'S Unfortu-
nate Mother's ADVICE to her Daughters.—III. The MARCHIONESS of
LAMBERT'S ADVICE of a Mother to her Daughter.—IV. MOORE'S Fa-
bLES for the Female Sex. Printed very neatly in one Volume. Fools-
cap 8vo. 6s.

4. ROMANCES; consisting of MEJNOUN and LEILA, a Persian Romance, interspersed with Notes and Poetry, descriptive of Oriental Scenery; LOVE and HUMILITY, a Roman Romance; The LOVERS, or the Birth of the Pleasing Arts, an Arcadian Romance. By I. D'ISRAELI. THIRD EDITION. With an Engraving after a Design by WESTALL. Foolscap 8vo. 7s. 6d.

"The mind of Mr. D'Israeli, naturally susceptible of vivid impressions, seems to have caught a richness of fancy from his inti-macy with oriental poetry. The pompous imagery of the eastern poets is given in an English form so judiciously, that it has little of that extravagance which would inevitably deform a bald trans-lation. The romances are interspersed with poetry, which, like his prose, abounds with luxuriant imagery. A richness of lan-guage and oriental novelty of thought adorn the poems. The story of Leila and Mejnou is the principal romance, and the more highly to be valued for its beauty and pathos. The suc-ceeding one is elegant and pleasing, and the third is very inge-nious."—*Monthly Review for June, 1799.*

"Mr. D'Israeli has shewn the richness of his fancy and the refinement of his taste, in these three beautiful romances. In pre-serving the local peculiarity of the country, his style resembles the soil of Persia, which is covered with fragrance and with flowers. The bosom not frozen by apathy, will often thrill with tenderness during the perusal of a story, over which, the genius of the author has thrown the most varied and the richest hues."—*Critical Review, November 1807.*

5. QUEEN-HOO-HALL, a legendary Romance, and ANCIENT TIMES, a Drama, exhibiting the Domestic Manners and Amusements of the Fifteenth Century. By the late Mr. JOSEPH STRUTT, Author of Rural Sports and Pastimes of the People of England, &c. 4 vols. Foolscap 8vo. 16s. *In the Press.*

6. MEMOIRS of MARMONTEL. Written by Himself; contain-
ing his Literary and Political Life, and Anecdotes of the principal
Characters of the Eighteenth Century. A New Translation, with
Notes and Illustrations. By the Author of the SWISS EMIGRANTS.
4 vols. 12mo. 1l. 1s.

"We are not sure that we have perused any book, that has afforded us more entertainment than these little volumes. The narrative is so gay and airy, the tone and sentiment so mild and unassuming, and the lively pictures, with which the busiest part of the scene is crowded, so full of delicacy, truth, and vivacity, that it is impossible not to be charmed with the performance.—Edinburgh Review, Vol. VII. p. 358.

BOOKS LATELY PUBLISHED.

7. AN ACCOUNT of the LIFE and WRITINGS of JAMES BEATTIE, L.L.D. late Professor of Moral Philosophy and Logic, in the Marischal College and University of Aberdeen, including many of his Original Letters. By Sir WILLIAM FORBES, of Pit-sligo, Bart. one of the Executors of Dr. Beattie. SECOND EDITION. 3 vols. 8vo. 1l. 7s.

"It is with pleasure we introduce our readers to a work, which forms a very important addition to the literary history of the last half century. The writings of Dr. Beattie amply deserve the mo-nument here raised to his fame by Sir William Forbes, who ap-pears to possess all the judgment and taste which can render biography interesting or desirable, and we are here gratified by memoirs of Dr. Beattie, with such a judicious selection of his correspondence, and with such valuable additions to the literary history and characters of his contemporaries, as ought not to be received without ample acknowledgement."—*British Critic*, Vol. XXVIII.

8. A TREATISE on SELF-KNOWLEDGE. By JOHN MASON. A.M. A NEW EDITION. Printed in the most beautiful manner, by Ballantyne. Foolscap 8vo. 6s.

9. MARMION, A Tale of Flodden Field; a Poetical Romance, in Six Cantos. By WALTER SCOTT, Esq. Author of the "Lay of the Last Minstrel." Printed in the most beautiful manner, by Ballantyne, in 4to. 1l. 11s. 6d.

10. THE MOUNTAIN BARD; consisting of Ballads and Songs, founded on Facts and Legendary Tales. By JAMES HOGG, the Ettrick Shepherd. SECOND EDITION. 12mo. 5s.

A few Copies are very handsomely printed in 8vo. 7s. 6d.

11. POPULAR BALLADS and SONGS, from Tradition, MSS. and scarce Editions, with Translations of similar Pieces from the ancient Danish Language, and a few Originals, by the Editor. Rt. JAMIESON, A. M. and F. A. S. 2 vols. 8vo. Printed by Ballantyne. 1l. 1s. in boards.

\*\* This Work is similar in Plan and Arrangement to Mr. Scott's Minstrelsy of the Border, and particularly applicable to the Traditional Tales of the more Northern Counties of Scotland.

12. LONDON CRIES; or, Pictures of Tumult and Distress: a Poem, with Notes, chiefly relative to Mendicity and Female Misery. To which is added, The Hall of Pedantry. Foolscap 8vo. 4s.

"Though the title of this little volume is of a serious cast, yet it contains much well-pointed satire and good serious writing, upon the tumult, the beggars, and the repentant females of the metropolis."—*British Critic*, Vol. XXVIII.

13. THE CODE of HEALTH and LONGEVITY; or, a Concise View of the Principles, calculated for the Preservation of Health, and the Attainment of Long Life. By Sir JOHN SINCLAIR, Bart. SECOND EDITION. 4 vols. 8vo. 2l. 8s.

BOOKS LATELY PUBLISHED.

14. THE ADVENTURES of ROBERT DRURY, during Fifteen Years Captivity on the Island of Madagascar. Containing a Description of that Island; an Account of its Produce, Manufactures, and Commerce; with an Account of the Manners and Customs, Wars, Religion, and Civil Polity of the Inhabitants: to which is added, a Vocabulary of the Madagascar Language. Written by Himself, and now carefully revised and corrected from the original Copy. 8vo. 6s.

"Among the numerous relations of voyages and travels, which combine so much instruction with delight, the Adventures of Robert Drury will be found one of the most interesting and amusing; for the work is not that of one who passed rapidly through the scenes which he describes, but the experience of a long series of years spent in captivity. Indeed, the author was become so naturalized, that he found much difficulty in regaining his native language. The narration of the numerous destructive wars, and the surprising incidents and vicissitudes of fortune which his unfortunate condition induced, together with the descriptions of the customs, the religion, and the productions of the country, cannot fail highly to gratify every reader. The whole is delivered in an artless style, which enhances the interest we feel for the author, as we are more immediately introduced to his situation of life, and more habituated to his own modes of thinking.

"We are glad to see so entertaining a book revived, in its present very handsome form. It will not be read without interest, either by young or old. The authenticity of the narrative has been amply confirmed, and the facts have been adopted by the compilers of geography."—Gentleman's Magazine, Feb. 1808, p. 143, Vol. LXXVIII.

15. SOME ACCOUNT OF NEW ZEALAND; particularly the BAY OF ISLANDS and surrounding Country; describing its soil and productions, the Religion and Government, Language, Arts, Manufactures, Manners, Customs, and Amusements of the Natives; and an Account of a Native of New Zealand, brought to England. By JOHN SAVAGE, Esq. With the Portrait of a Chief, and Two other Engravings. 8vo. 5s. 6d.

"This is a publication of considerable merit, and of very modest pretensions. We must refer our readers to the work of Mr. Savage itself for details, and likewise for a very amusing account of the native whom he brought to England—his behaviour on the voyage, and after he landed here. We trust that Mr. Savage's example will be followed by other voyagers; and are sure, that, at any rate, he has laid the public under considerable obligations, both by the light which he has thrown on the character and habits of these islanders, and the intelligence which he has communicated respecting them."—Edinburgh Review, No. XX.

THE END.

W. Wilson, Printer, St. John's Square.