San Francisco's skyline seen from the water.

## The Key to the Shops
### Around the World

**ANTICIPATION** — experience — reminiscence!

The pleasures of world traveling, or of any traveling in fact, are made up of these three parts; anticipation, that sprightly expectation of all that is to come; experience, the actual seeing and accomplishment of the things so long looked forward to; reminiscence, the recollection of experiences, of places seen, of things done, of persons met, and of contacts made.

It is what one brings back from his travels that makes them worth while. Some of these are only memories — intangible things — lovely mind-pictures — of high mountains, whose snowy peaks touch the heavens — or giant chasms overwhelming in mass, coloring, and configuration — or purpling seas beneath the dying sun — or teeming cities, the roar of whose incessant traffic still resounds in one's ears — or camels of camels grunting under their loads — or battlemented crags overlooking placid rivers. Lively recollections, too, of acquaintances made at such and such a time — of interesting and fascinating fellow travelers — of ships and ports on foreign shores. More substantial souvenirs than these intangibles, however, are the purchases brought home. Their very sight or

touch is enough to conjure a whole pageant of happy memories. These are the things the enjoyment of which can be shared with others. They bring pleasure alike to owner and to friends. Trophies of the chase, spoils of the shops, tangible mementos of eventful days, are found in these examples of the handicrafts of the workers, the products of the people. Even the things that were seemingly insignificant in their native place assume an exaggerated value when seen back home. The lure that draws the average men and women from their homes, to travel in strange lands and among alien peoples, to cross vast oceans and to tour great continents, lies neither in the varied scenery of mountain and plain, nor in the heather-covered hills or sun-splashed villages along the shore, nor in stinging sands or fragrant orchards. It is not the great cities with their wealth of historic associations and architectural masterpieces, or the venerable chateaux and ancient cathedrals; it is not the art galleries, or the vast museums, not the universities or the theaters, that cause the itch in the wandering feet of those who travel far afield. While interest in these may be a factor in arousing their desire, the real magnet that consciously or unconsciously draws the travelers away from home to move back and forth across the

## HONOLULU

THE ROAR OF THE SURF across the reef—the glint of the sun on green and violet waves—the golden crescent of the sandy beach—the sinuous length of the hard white road winding over the mountains—the rustle of the wind in the palm fronds—the flaming glory of the sunset—all these come back in haunting visions of Hawaii conjured by the things brought home: the lovely koa wood bowls, with their satiny luster; the tapa cloths with their odd, artistic designs; the tinkling ukulele, the hula skirt that served so well at the fancy dress ball, the brilliant leis—magic keys to unlock the heaped-up treasure chest of memory.

world is the people themselves. They are the backbone of any nation, the individual elements that make up the composite whole. Of these people, their lives, their habits, their aspirations and inspirations, nothing is more typical, nothing more expressive, nothing more fascinating than the work of their hands and brains, the products of their energy, the fruits of their industry. These are spread out in riotous profusion before every visitor in their shops and stores, their markets and bazaars, their tiny stalls and mammoth emporiums. To see them is to gauge the power of that country or city, to measure its resources in mental and material equipment, to observe its trends of thought, the flow of its activities, and the beauty of its customs. For this reason the keynote of any country is found in the daily commercial life of its nationals and in the production of its workers. The marts of trade and the places of sale are the mirrors that reflect the people themselves.

It is therefore to the shops that line "the road of buy and buy" that travelers go to return enriched with the treasures of experience. In the great bazaars, the fascinating silver shops, the wonderful art and curio studios, the amazing collections of rare and beautiful things that line the Ginza in Tokyo, Nanking Road in Shanghai, Legation Street in Peking, Baillie

YOKOHAMA

REMINISCENT OF DAYS IN YOKOHAMA—the first port of call in the Orient, the meeting place of East and West—the city of crooked, narrow streets and quaint, intriguing shops—are the kimonos; soft, thin, washable ones for bath use; thick, rich, lustrous crepes and failles decorated in true Japanese fashion with charming hand-painted designs or the tie-and-dye patterns that are so highly prized by the Japanese themselves rather than the gaudy over-decorated styles that find their way into the shops at home; and haori coats worn for centuries in Japan and now most popular for sports and beach wear, to say nothing of the lovely silks.

Street or the Fort in Colombo, or Chowringhi Road in Calcutta, or a hundred or more famous shopping streets, there are gathered together for inspection and purchase dazzling arrays of merchandise that intrigue the eye and tend to empty the purse. Shopping in these magnificent places is ever a memorable event because of the wealth of wares that is set before one. It leaves one almost breathless with the barbaric splendor and lavish variety of the display.

But there are in all these same cities other shops, little shops, tiny bazaars tucked away from sight—shops not at all fine, lacking in plate glass and in vast variety of goods—dirty shops and clean shops, native shops, traders’ shops, shops where the things sold are the things made in the back rooms or upstairs or perhaps right before your eyes—shops scarcely large enough to hold more than two persons—shops whose only “overhead” is the roof—family shops where father, mother, brother, and sister all are at work—shops that live on the business done with their own people—shops that have beautiful and lovely things along with a lot of cheap and worthless “truck”—shops that are treasure troves to the one who knows what he wants and appreciates values no matter where found. In such shops the exhilaration of bargaining

KYOTO

FOR CENTURIES THE CENTER of Japan's arts and crafts, Kyoto, the ancient capital, has never relinquished its leadership in the creation of things beautiful. Here, in tiny shops handed down from father to son, the secrets of the craft are jealously guarded as nimble fingers turn out the beautiful cloisonnés, the boxes and trays and cases of damascene and lacquer, the inimitable swords whose blades surpass those of Damascus, the bronzes in varying sizes and shapes—from the huge more-than-man-high lantern to the delicate, silver bronze match box—the dainty Satsuma and Awata ware—Kyoto, the overseas shoppers' paradise.

still is found. There few, if any, sales are ever closed without a contest of wits and words; there the smallest purchase takes on a new zest and becomes something of an achievement. These are the shops that one remembers best—they are the places from which are brought back the highly treasured memories of one's wanderings in strange lands. One says quite casually, "That silver bowl—oh, yes, I bought that at Car-gills' in Colombo"—with scarcely a ripple of remembrance of the day and the time, perhaps not even a recollection of the price paid. But how the eye brightens and the color heightens when the jade earrings are mentioned. "Ah, those! I picked them up in the quaintest place in Phnom Penh (or Jaipur or Hangchow or Kyoto, as may be), a tiny hut quite off the road. I think they belonged to the woman's grandmother—and how we argued to persuade her to sell them—and what a ridiculously low price. I was almost ashamed to take them from her." So runs the gamut of shopping experience. From the magnificence of the great bazaars, and even modern de-partment stores, to the bargaining for bargains in the small stalls; from the buying a bit of this or that from the owner—perhaps a precious heirloom—in a thatched hut beneath the bamboo grove to the selection of a King's ransom in gems or

KOREA

A QUEER OLD MAN, with a few sparse hairs for a beard, and a hat, for all the world like Happy Hooligan's except that it is made of horse hair, sits at the entrance of his shop. Behind him in the dimness are wonderful Korean chests of cedar richly bound with gleaming brass, bowls and giant candlesticks of heavy brass, boxes of quaintly carved silver, curious ornaments, bejewelled hairpins. Around the corner in another rambling street the brass spinner is fashioning the graceful bowls that ring like chimes and sell by weight—all Korea comes back at the sight of these souvenirs, and the memory of the bargaining for them.

silver or porcelains or furs in one of the modern stores, there
is always the joy of acquisition. To the visitor from the West
accustomed to the established one-price system, the native
shops and dealers are always a delight. There one turns back,
in a minor degree, to the old days of barter and haggle, of
chivvy and cheat, when every piece of goods offered must bear
the fingering of the cautious, and every coin that changes
hands must feel the bite of skeptical teeth. Not that today's
custom is quite as bad as that, but with buyer and seller in a
good-natured battle of wits, a matching of shrewdness with
shrewdness, of meeting guile with craft, each seeking some
advantage for himself, there is added a certain zest to the sale
that is lacking in the more matter of fact purchasing. In the
daily life of the people in the lands that lie beyond the sunset
and beneath the sunrise, the prosaic prosperity of the one-
price West is still an unknown factor. Century after century,
beneath the towering walls and storied temple gates, through
narrow, crooked, crowded streets with their multitude of
tiny home-industry shops, there has ever risen the turmoil of
trading, the babel of bargaining, the strident note of chaffer-
ing buyers and shrilly remonstrating sellers. Everything is
for sale—everything has its ultimate price—time is a matter

PEKING

MEMORIES OF SILVER STREET, where the shops are agleam with hand-wrought silver work—of Slipper Street and Jade Street—of Rug Street, where the noise of the looms is heard at all hours—and most of all of Fur Street—come surging back with the touch of the soft sable coat that is a most prized possession. From across the frozen steppes of Siberia and wind-blown deserts of Mongolia the caravans bring vast treasures of furs and skins. The recollection of the days when constant bickering and unmerciful insistence on a lower price finally won the prize is among the most delightful—it brings with it all of wonderful Peking.

of little consequence—whether it is sold today or tomorrow
or next week depends on the exigencies of the present owner.
They who gain most in material advantage and mental fillip
from such trafficking are they who follow the leisurely meth-
ods that have been in vogue in the Far East since Alexander
stormed into Trebizond; since the Polo brothers trekked
across the trackless wastes to Cathay; nay, since Jacob tricked
Laban, his father-in-law-to-be, in the little matter of the off-
color lambs. Everything comes to him who has patience, sym-
pathetic understanding, and generous appreciation of human
nature. Until one has sat within the shadowed depths of an
Indian gem shop while the merchant laid out tray after tray
of sparkling jewels and semiprecious stones; until one has
watched with outward unconcern, but with inward delight,
the shy approach of the native peddler who produced such
lovely wares from his untidy bundles; unless one has seen the
rug sellers of Persia unroll bale after bale of wonderful rugs
and silky carpets, or has sat on the spotless tatami in Japan and
sipped innumerable cups of fragrant tea, listening the while
to the shopkeeper's tale of the history, the manufacture, and
the value of his wares; until one has smoked cigarette after
cigarette and discussed with the Chinese vendor every article

SHANGHAI

THERE ARE HUGE DEPARTMENT STORES in Shanghai, where the Chinese flock to trade just as does the populace of the cities of the West, thrilled with the size and glamor of the surroundings. There are also other shops, small and mean in external appearance, but rich beyond a miser's dream in lovely merchandise hidden away in locked chests. Once the merchant realizes that here is an appreciative as well as a reasonably curious customer, all the boxes and drawers are tumbled out to display the silks, the jades, the ivories, the carved silver, and the seductive man-darin coats of rich, heavy silk such as the one that was brought back home.

except that in which he is really interested; unless one has
been awakened with the dawn and slipped from his hotel
while all Peking was sleeping, to visit the "thieves market"
with its amazing display of stuff; unless one has lingered in
the second-hand shops of Java where all may find loans from
the Government on their heirlooms and treasures; unless one
has listened to the vociferous arguments of buyers and sellers
wherein both have done everything but come to blows; un-
less one has made his offer and been met with the expected
refusal; unless one has argued and bartered and haggled and
perhaps been unsuccessful in getting his price; if one has
never handed back the goods and started to walk out of the
shop, hoping all the time to be called back with an offer
nearly as low as his own; if one has not yearned to turn back
and pay the price rather than lose the precious trinket; if one
has not lost something very much wanted in the battle of
bargaining; if one has not wondered after his price has been
accepted if a lower one could not have been obtained; if
one has not done these things or some of them; if with the
precious souvenirs from far-off lands there have not been
brought back sheaves of memories of the time and place in
which they were obtained, pleasant recollections of good-

HONG KONG

BECAUSE THE BOLD ADVENTURERS of Spain and Portugal brought back to their wives, sweethearts, and mistresses the gay and beautiful shawls that only the Chinese can make, the gorgeous creations became known the world over as "Spanish shawls," although none of them were ever made in Spain. Visions of loveliness, rich, heavy fabrics, marvelous colorings, embroidery that stands out like bas-relief, the floor and counters, the tables and chairs piled high with silken wares, are called up by the shawls that were part of the purchases in Hong Kong. The teakwood desk and chairs and the jade Buddha on the writing desk came along with it.

natured bickerings, of offers and counter offers, of twists and
turns, of hard eyes and smiling lips, and grim features and
keen, amused eyes; until one has encountered these actions
and reactions, his or her shopping experience is a hollow
name, even though the treasures of the world have been
bought and paid for from his purse.

It is in the Far East the charm still lingers. There is yet a
relish and flavor in the individual trade—in the purchase
where the price depends on the knowledge of human nature
as much as on the quality of the goods. In Nippon and Cathay,
in Burmah and Camboge, Malaya and Thibet, the mental
hazard of the lower price still adds to the interest of the sale.
The Orient is the world's greatest pleasure place today. There
are the lands of contrasts. Its shops and stores, its bazaars and
markets, its opportunities of seeing things as they are made—
its appreciative enjoyment of buying and selling arguments,
invite and intrigue. The marvelous precision of incomparable
Western mechanics there gives place to the wonderworks of
human hands, to the artistic dreaming of unfettered brains
transposing their dreams into bronze or clay or silk or jade.
The life of the shops is the life of the people themselves; the
activities of the market place are the reflections of the na-

SINGAPORE

BECAUSE SINGAPORE IS THE CROSSROADS of the world, where ships from every
route touch and people from many lands congregate, its shops are most diver-
sified. The Chinese, who constitute its merchant class, are the world's greatest
traders, and into their tiny shops-or giant markets flows the merchandise of Java,
of Malaya, of Siam, of India, and all the East. Its silversmiths are in a class alone,
producing designs in heavy beaten or light filigree silver that are not obtainable
elsewhere. That sarong in lovely batik design, heavy with gold and silver threads,
that now does duty as a rare arras on the wall, alone was worth the trip there.

tional tendencies. The history of the day is written in the
marts of merchandising—the unfolding scroll of human
progress. To travel to these lands of contrast is to steep one's
self in the joys of enlightenment, that comes only from sym-
pathetic contact with the different. To come home after such
an experience in the shops abroad is to return with a keener
appreciation, a broader sympathy, and a greater understand-
ing. To the radiant romantic bazaars—to the markets
drenched in color of the sunrise—to the dim nooks that hide
such unsuspected treasure—to the winding, smelly streets
—to dark and devious alleys—to homes where potters'
wheels whirr—where silk looms clatter—where hammer
smites metal—to the thousand and one places where things
are made for use rather than for sale—to the treasure chests
that are hidden away in far-flung cities and scattered ports of
the world, the N. Y. K. Line offers the magic keys. Its steam-
ers, sailing frequently on their appointed courses, girdle the
globe, touching all continents and spanning all oceans, serv-
ing eighty ports in twenty different countries. The joy of
world touring, of shopping around the world, is vastly in-
creased if your ticket is marked N. Y. K. Line. In it is the best
insurance of service, of comfort, and of satisfaction.

BANGKOK

THE STAMP OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT is seen in much of the ware that came from Bangkok. The brasses have a curious way of presenting some form of this design in every shape and carving. Brasses, platters, plaques, and trays, vases, bowls, candlesticks, jewels and their settings, even the toys bear the record of this mythological deity. The joys of a week's stay overflow from the two superb bowls that were picked up in a tiny shop in this colorful capital—the pleasures of sight-seeing in one of the most unusual cities are flashed back from the jewels that were purchased in that amazing Silver Street as mementos of the stay in Siam.

## N. Y. K. Line Around-the-World Fares Are Low

WITH A GREAT FLEET of 140 ships serving 80 ports in 20 different lands, the N. Y. K. Line is one of the world's greatest steamship companies. Its passenger steamers are noted for the excellence of table service and comfort of accommodations. Despite this the N. Y. K. rates are unusually reasonable. With its far-flung network of sea services, frequent sailings, and excellent connections, the N. Y. K. Line offers exceptional facilities for independent and party tours — to Japan and China — around the Pacific including Japan, China, Indochina, Siam, Straits Settlements, Java, South Seas, Australia, and New Zealand — or the complete circuit of the globe. Outlines of some of these tours with mention of special features are given in the following pages. The rates quoted are for steamer transportation, food and berth aboard ship at sea and in port en route to the destination. They do not include expenses ashore or wines and liquors aboard ship.

Anyone contemplating a world tour — in either direction and from any point — will profit by inquiry concerning the N. Y. K. Line rates. Despite the moderate charges, the excellence of the accommodations and cuisine, and the willing service assures the happiest of ocean journeys.

## CALCUTTA

THE MARKETS AND BAZAARS of Calcutta are the mirrors that reflect the handi-crafts of India. Darjeeling and the snowy peaks of the Himalayas—the mys-tic Lama temples of isolated Tibet—Delhi and the fairy loveliness of Agra's 'Taj Mahal, and the never-to-be-forgotten "Vale of Kashmir"—all find expression in the merchandise that is seen in the marts of this great Indian metropolis. The mag-nificent tiger skin, the superb fur scarf, the silky sheen of the wonderful Kashmir shawl, purchased there after days of searching among the fascinating shops, are continual reminders of an Indian holiday that was all too short for us.

N. Y. K. Line Around-the-World Fares
From San Francisco and Los Angeles $983.00

THE ROUTE OF THIS TOUR—identified as Tour No. 1B—is practically the same as Tour No. 1A described on page 23, except that the arrival or departure of steamers is from San Francisco or Los Angeles, and the tour includes a stopover not exceeding thirty days at Honolulu and the Hawaii Islands.

The rate for this tour is only $983.00, first-class accommodations throughout.

After leaving the Pacific seaboard the ports of call are Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Moji, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Penang, Colombo, Suez, Port Said, Naples, and Marseilles. The traveler may journey to the North American Atlantic port of his choice via any allied transatlantic line and to the starting point by any direct railway line.

Tickets can be routed in either direction from starting point following the above schedule.

The traveler need not follow a hard, fast schedule on this tour. Stopovers are permitted at any port and on main points of American rail lines. Fortnightly sailings for both California Orient and Japan-Europe lines.

## CAIRO

WHENEVER THE EYE FALLS on the beautiful rug or the hand caresses the graceful beauty of the tall brass urn, or the arms and shoulders thrill at the touch of soft, sensuous silks, or the nostrils quiver at the fragrance of a Turkish cigarette, there comes the memory of the pageant that daily and nightly unfolded itself before the eyes of those who sat on the terrace of Shepheard's or the Savoy in Cairo. Here the "Streets of Cairo"—always a phrase of intriguing suggestion—became an actuality—a page of an Arabian Night's tale come true, vivid in color, sparkling in action, amazing in composition and action—never to be forgotten.

Special Facilities Offered to
N. Y. K. Line Passengers

IN ADDITION to moderate rates and a high standard of excel-
lence in accommodations, cuisine, and service, the around-
the-world traveler using N. Y. K. Line steamers has the ad-
vantage of many unusual features of service and connection
to add to the ease and pleasure of the journey. A number of
such features are listed on this and the following page. They
include:

*Free passage* between Hong Kong and Manila or vice versa on N. Y. K. Line steamers or ships of other lines with which the N. Y. K. Line has connecting arrangements.

*No extra charge for meals or lodgings* on steamers while passengers are awaiting to make connections with another N. Y. K. steamer,

*Optional side trip* by steamer from Kobe or Moji to Tientin or Tsingtao (thence by rail to Shanghai at passenger's expense).

*Optional side trip between Singapore and Calcutta* or vice versa in lieu of traveling by N. Y. K. Line steamer between Singapore and Colombo.

LONDON

THE GLADSTONE BAGS and other luggage, purchased in London, bring back with amazing sharpness the indelible recollections of England and its overwhelming metropolis. With the sole leather trunks and travel accessories, they constitute almost indestructible souvenirs of a sojourn in London. With them is inseparably associated the roar of traffic in the city, the outpouring of the theatre crowds along Piccadilly, the solemn impressive quiet and beauty of Westminster, and not least the brilliance of the spectacle presented by "trooping of the colors" when the King rode from Buckingham to Whitehall when all the Guards are in brave array.

Special Facilities Offered to
N. Y. K. Passengers—Continued

Special privilege of embarking on steamers 24 hours prior to sailing on connection, extended to N. Y. K. Line around-the-world travelers, breaking the sea journey and traveling by rail between intermediate ports — except at terminal ports.

Option of taking passage between Japan and China ports or vice versa on any of the numerous N. Y. K. Line steamers including the fast express liners Shanghai Maru and Nagasaki Maru which sail every four days, making the journey in 48 hours and passing through the beautiful Inland Sea in daytime.

Free railway tickets between ports in Japan will be issued by pursers of N. Y. K. Line steamers or offices on application by passengers desiring to travel by rail instead of by steamer. The tickets are for rail transportation only and the passenger must bear such charges as sleeping car fee, meals, and extra express train fares.

Optional Japan-China Overland Tours. The N. Y. K. Line passengers holding through tickets covering as their portions the passage from Yokohama to Shanghai, or vice versa, may travel overland if they so desire through Chosen (Korea), Manchuria, and China with various special facilities by purchasing Overland Railway Ticket Coupon Books which are on sale at the N. Y. K. Line offices in Tokyo, Yokohama, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. No refund of passage money can be made on the unused portion of the N. Y. K. Line steamer ticket, as the reduced fares quoted have been arrived at with due allowance made for the unused portion of the through ticket.

N. Y. K. Line's Principal
Passenger Services

TO GIVE SOME IDEA of the network of N. Y. K. Line routes from Japan, herewith are listed the N. Y. K. Line's principal passenger services, as well as those of the N. Y. K. subsidiary, the K. Y. K. Line. Frequency of sailings also is included.

<table><tr><td>Orient-California Service</td><td>Fortnightly</td></tr><tr><td>Japan-Europe Service</td><td>Fortnightly</td></tr><tr><td>Orient-Seattle Service</td><td>Semi-monthly</td></tr><tr><td>South American Service (East Coast)</td><td>Monthly</td></tr><tr><td>South American Service (West Coast)</td><td>Monthly</td></tr><tr><td>Japan-Australia Service</td><td>Monthly</td></tr><tr><td>Japan-Bombay Service</td><td>Semi-monthly</td></tr><tr><td>Japan-China Rapid Express Service</td><td>Every four days</td></tr><tr><td>Yokohama-Shanghai Service</td><td>Every six days</td></tr><tr><td>Osaka}-Shanghai Service</td><td>Semi-weekly</td></tr><tr><td>Osaka}-Tsingtao Service</td><td>Semi-monthly</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2">South Sea Islands Service:</td></tr><tr><td>Eastward Service</td><td>Monthly</td></tr><tr><td>Westward Service</td><td>Monthly</td></tr><tr><td>Osaka-Tientsin Service</td><td>Every five days</td></tr><tr><td>Yokohama-North China Service</td><td>Weekly</td></tr><tr><td>Kobe-Keelung Service</td><td>Every five days</td></tr></table>

The New York Skyline