4

heavy jungle was on both sides of the trail.

About 3:30 I caught up with the pack train, and at about
the same time it began to rain. This made going a little slower,
and also darkness came a great deal quicker. A short distance above
a spot called Huaynaypoco, where there were three Indian huts, we
had to pass over a bridge, and one of the mules, slipping just as
she stepped on it, fell off the edge and down about ten feet, where
she landed on a little sloping bank about 10 feet above the stream.
Marcos dropped a noose over her head and tied her to a tree so she
wouldn't try any more antics, but just about the time the knot was
well tied, the mule's feet slipped in the mud and down she went again
until brought up by the rope. When that happened she promptly began
to strangle. With my sheath knife I cut the rope and let her drop
into the stream, which took her off her feet and robbled her over
and over downstream for about 30 yards. There she gained her feet
and waded out. We pulled her up the bank and looked her over. She
had a bad limp besides several healthy bumps, so I decided we had
better camp there. Accordingly, Marcos unpacked and made his camp
while the mayordomo and I went back to the huts, carrying our beds
with us. At the first hut we stopped and had the woman kill the fatted
rooster and cook supper for us. The meal consisted of a stew of
chicken and potatoes which was very good indeed, though the fowl had
undoubtedly been a muscular one during life. I was given a bedstead
of bamboo. On this I spread my bed, and, with the squeaks of the
guineau pigs which swarmed over the floor acting as a lullaby, went
to sleep. Not for long however, for I was soon awakened by certain
insects which were making an earnest endeavor to fill themselves on
white man, and were succeeding wonderfully. The rest of the night
I spent fighting for my life, or at least for my blood, and got up

5

in the morning weary with battle but alive.

The next morning we made an early start, and in an hour reached Culpapampa. Here the mayordomo left us, but he supplied us with a guide to show us the road to Yanama. On leaving, he said that he was glad to have met me and looked forward to seeing me again that night as by no possibility could we cross the pass that lay ahead of us. This thing had been continually dinned into our ears. That the pass was covered with snow and could not be crossed. I had not paid much attention to it but the peons and Marcos and Tomas were getting frightened.

We pushed on as fast as we could, the injured mule showing scarcely any signs of lameness, and after five hours, in which time we passed only three Indian houses, at each of which we had the old chorus of going on a fruitless journey, we reached the foot of the pass. There was no doubt about its being snow covered, and from the tracks at its base no one had attempted it in some time, from which I reasoned that nobody really knew whether it was very bad or not. After a short rest, I gave the order to start up. They all did. Instead of starting their legs, however, they started their tongues. They all told me how we would certainly die. That even in good weather we could not start so late in the afternoon--it was all of 1:45--and get across. That night would catch us when we were halfway across, and we would miserably freeze to death. I knew that it was no use arguing with these people, so just said "If you die, it will be in better company than you have lived! Vamos!" and turning my back to them started up, leading my horse. When I stopped to breathe in about five minutes, Tomas, Marcos, and the guide from Culpapampa caught me, while I could see Marcelino toiling along below. I grinned at them but their faces were long. Again they asked that we return, and again I refused them, so they

6

said, "'Bien senor' we know that we will die, but if you, the 'patron'
say it must be so and go ahead, we will come." They kept their word
too. Soon we were in the clouds, fighting our way through snow
that was belly deep for the animals. From time to time snow squalls
caught us, but luckily these did not last long. There was one obvious
course to follow however, as the mountain rose on both sides of us,
so the danger of wandering was practically nothing. After a three
hours fight we reached the top of the saddle. Then down to the
headwaters of the Amaru. The descent was much shorter than the
ascent, but was also much steeper. Time and again the animals fell,
but we could always hold them on the slope by their halters until
they could regain their feet. In spite of, or perhaps because of,
the slipping and sliding we soon passed the snow line, and arfer stop-
ping five minutes to breathe the animals, went on down the valley.

From the foot of the pass Yanama is only about 4 miles,
but, tired as we were, it took us an hour and a half to get there.
So long as the light lasted I enjoyed it, for the scenery here is
wonderful. The valley is wide, being glacier cut, and has many old
moraines and other evidences of glacial work. On either side the
mountains climb high into the sky, all snow capped, and with many
glaciers on their slopes, the blue ice front in some cases being
over 100 feet high. Right up to the foot of the ice the long
yellow grass grows, and from each glacier come down many little
streams, all joining in the bottom of the valley to form the Amaru.
This stream grows with great swiftness from a brook one can step
across to one which it is dangerous to ford.

Yanama was reached at 7:00 P.M. All the people had
already gone to bed, but a shout brought them out. The only ones
there were the mayordomo with his wife and two children, and two

7

servants. At my request they made us stew for supper and showed me a place where I could pitch my tent. With the hot stew inside me, the cold, wet shoes and stockings off me, and the warm blankets around me I was soon in perfect peace.

The next morning the first thing to do was to get the mayordomo bysy looking for men to go with me to hunt for Choquequirau. As to the location of this place, he could tell me no more than the general direction. He said a German had made the attempt the year before, but after seven days had come out without reaching the place. I asked if it would be possible to have any of the men who had gone with the German, and he thought it would.

Before going on, perhaps it would be well to describe Yanama. It is a small group of buildings, four in number, and, with the exception of one two roomed house, all of one room. They are all connected by a wall, and a wooden fence completes an enclosed rectangle which is variously used as a salting pen, a slaughter yard, and a corral. The place was founded by the Jesuit fathers a very long time ago. They had cleared places on the river where they grew cane, coea, and coru, while the uplands gave them potatoes for themselves and pasture for their cattle. Besides this they worked many mines, running the ore through a rude smelter and getting lead and silver. After the expulsion of the Jesuits the place was not worked for a long time. Then Senora Vargas, or rather her father, bought it as a part of the hacienda of Huadquina, and since then it has always been occupied by one renter or another. The present tenant is one Sr. Palma of Cuzco. He has let all the plantations go to waste except a few places where potatoes are grown, and has but 1/5 of the amount of stock that he originally had. In spite of his lack of management however, he still is able to get a living out of it as the annual rent is only 400 soles.

8

The number of Indians on this finca are comparatively few, there
probably being not over 50 in all.

After the mayordomo had gone to look for men, I took
Tomas, and we climbed a point to the south west, from which it
looked as though we could see a good deal of the surrounding country.
After a three hours climb we reached the spot, well above 14000
feet, and had a splendid view of the country. From here I could get
an idea of the kind of traveling I would encounter and it did not
look very inviting. Where the jungle was not thick the mountain
sides were steep and rocky. I could see the course of the Apurimac,
somewhere near which was Choquequirau, and the green cane fields in
the Province of Abancay on the other side. From a purely artistic
point of view the country was wonderful, with its splendid ranges
of gleaming white peaks all carved by glaciers, and the dark
green of the jungle below, leading down into straight sided
valleys, with streams white with foam running down them. From
the point of view of one who had to travel through it for the
purpose of getting to a place, location unknown, in it, and making
a trail to that place, it was anything but lovely.

After looking my fill, and taking compass readings on
Yanama and various prominent points, we started down. There had
been condors swinging above us ever since we had reached the high
point, and now one flew quite close. I fired at him with the 22
automatic I had, and for a moment thought he was going to fall.
He recovered his balance however, and went sailing off, but after
traveling about half a mile he suddenly collapsed and fell,
turning over and over and over, into the brush, where, after quite
a hunt, we found him, dead. He was a splendid bird, spreading
a little over 9 feet, 6 inches and measuring 4 feet from bill

9

to tail tip. This shot showed both the hitting power of the
little 22 and the wonderful vitality of the condor. The mushroom
bullet had gone through breast and breastbone, lungs, liver,
and intestines, lodging against a thigh bone. Tomas carried the
bird back to the hacienda where the prowess of the little rifle
caused much admiration. We took off the skin and spread it to dry
on one of the frames built to jerk meat, of which there were several
in the yard. Next morning it was nowhere to be seen, and as the
mayordomo said that it was no use looking for it, I surmised that
he knew where it was, and agreed with him.

That same evening after I had gone to bed there was a big
stir outside and Sr. Palma Jr. arrived. As I was tired I did not
bother myself to get up however.

I had been promised six men to go with me. One of my own
cowards had, after a days delay, followed me across the pass.
Therefore I was counting on seven peons to go with me besides having
Tomas and Marcelino. Marcos I sent back to Bingham at Machu
Picchu. On this day I hoped to make an early start. The hope
quickly died however, for the mayordomo told me that the men he had
told to come in had not come. I found out later that he had not
told any men to come, preferring to wait and see what Palma wanted
to do before making a move. I asked him to send out and hurry the
men up and he promised to do so, but nothing happened until young
Palma got up, which he did about 10:30. Putting my case before him,
he said that he couldn't let me have six men but would get me two,
and that right away. In half an hour the two men were there and
ready to start. One of them had been with the German the year before.
I sent the peons on with Marcelino to watch them, and Tomas and
I followed on horse and muleback respectively about an hour later.

10

As this first half day we were going to be on the Arma trail, we borrowed a pack horse from Sr. Palma, and he promised to send a man after us that evening to bring it and our own animals back to Yanama. On the pack horse we put two food boxes, tools consisting of five machetes and an axe, and my bed roll and kit.

The Arma trail is in good shape and we made good time, soon catching up with the peons and hurrying them along. About 5:00 we left the trail and went down through woods and brush to a little spring, where we made camp. The man who had been promised in order to take the horses back, did not show up that night, but early next morning he put in an appearance. The man said that Sr. Palma had told him to go in with us for one day, and then return for the horses so we put the heaviest load on him to get what we could out of him. I had intended to cache one food box at this camp, but the extra man enabled me to take it along. The peons' food was the most bulky articula as it consisted almost entirely of potatoes. They had brought many fresh ones instead of the dry frozen "moraya" which is just as nourishing and much lighter; a thing they regretted before they were through. My own boad was light, consisting of bed roll and cooking kit. The whole thing could not have weighed over 35 pounds.

The first part of the trip was a quick drop, or rather slide, to the valley. The valley sides were earth covered, but the slope was very steep indeed and covered with slippery grass. We fell repeatedly. One would not get the first ha! ha! out of his mouth when another fell, before his own feet would fly out from under him and all his mirth would get jarred out the top of his head.

11

We had hardly gotten started before we made the acquaintance of the green jungle flies. They are little fellows but the way they bite is not the least in proportion to their size. Every place they bite they leave a blood spot about the size of a pinhead, and this burns and itches for two or three days. There were swarms of them and soon we were all swelling. The only thing we could do was to grin and bear it. When we stopped to rest, we made a smudge, but while traveling the best we could do was slaughter as many as we could.

We reached the floor of the valley and started down the bank of the stream. For a little while all went well. Then the stream swung against a cliff and we had to ford. A repetition of this would sum up the days traveling. About noon, happening to glance across the stream, I saw a beautiful spectacled bear, not thirty yards away. I didn't imagine the 22 could kill him, but thought I might knock him down and reach him with my knife. Accordingly I shot him in the head. The bullet glanced off without even jarring him. As he turned to run I shot him behind the shoulder-- a foolish proceeding as a bear can run a mile with a 45 bullet through its lungs. Crossing the stream we found splotches of blood and followed them for a short way, but soon lost the trail and gave it up.

The fording business was quite dangerous enough to be interesting. At one place one of the men fell, and was rolled quite a ways, getting some bad bumps before I could get hold of him and straighten him up. Luckily he was carrying a food box that had never been opened and nothing got wet. The last event in the days trip was a waist deep wade for 40 yards; a hard ending for a hard day.

12

With the coming of dark the flies had left us, but they
left us in very bad shape. Not a man of us could bend his wrists,
they were so swollen, the knuckles on the hands were invisible,
and our eyes were mere slits that it cost an effort to open enough
to look out of. Still there was a lot to be thankful for. There
was lots of dry wood where we stopped and we soon had a fire going
which warmed and dried us. The night was clear, so there was no
danger of being gotten out of bed by rain. I had shot a jungle
duck and the inner man was perfectly satisfied. What bothered me
most was that I was afraid the peons would try to run away and I
very much doubted my ability to carry enough food to enable me to
find Choquequirau without their help.

The next morning the first thing I did was to convert a
dish towel into a mask and gloves. Tomas and Marcelino followed
my example, but the peons refused my offer of cloth for similar
purposes. The mask arranged to my liking, we started on down the
valley. The bottom broadened out and we came to cane brakes where
the Jesuits had had plantations and where the sugar cane now grew
wild. It was all tramped with bear and deer trails, and I was
constantly in hopes of seeing one or other of these, but though
we could hear them, we never got in sight. All morning we walked down
the bank or scrambled over the boulders at the margins of the
streams but without having to ford once. Finally we came to where
a flood had filled the valley with mud and stones, the flood coming
in from a side stream which originated in a glacier not more than
4 or 5 miles back. This material had formed a dam causing the stream
to spread out and effectually stop us from continuing without
crossing. I tried the ford in three separate places, but without
success. The third time I was taken off my feet and carried into

13

the lake, luckily without being dashed very hard against any boulders, and had to swim out. There was nothing for it but to build a bridge, which we did in about an hour, cutting trees that would reach across the stream and lashing them in place with lianas. Then we went on down stream for about two hundred yards, when we recrossed, this time by an easy ford. Then we crossed the side stream that had done the damming. This could be almost done without wetting one's feet. As the extra man said he would have to return from here we made a cache of one food box, putting it under some boulders so the bears could not get at it. Then we pushed on down stream for about half a mile until we came to a point where there was a little spring, and where the peon who had been with the expedition of the year before said we must leave the Amaru. I decided to camp there that night but, as there were still three hours of daylight to be used, I put them in on the trail that would help us get out of the Amaru valley. This was necessary as for twenty feet the bank rose almost perpendicularly. Then after a few yards along a terrace it was another scramble up a steep draw that took a good deal of step cutting. Above this draw was a little grassy pampa which we tried to fire, but the grass proved too wet, so giving up the attempt, we returned to camp, where I investigated the Peruvian method of cooking parrot by roasting it on the coals, and found it a very good one indeed.

As I had been told that from this point on there was no water, I had brought a five gallon kerosene tin, and this we filled before starting the next morning. Passing the little "pampa" which we had tried to fire the night before, we went on up the mountain which rose steeply in front of us. At 11:30 we stopped under a

14

tree and ate lunch. Here it occurred to me to again try firing the grass and bush, as it held us back a great deal. This time it was a success, the fire going roaring up hill. Also it worked over toward us, but before reaching us we managed to get on an already burned place, where we were half stifled by smoke and uncomfortably warm, but in no danger from the fire. A new danger soon rose though. A row of cliffs was in front of us. The fire passing up over them loosened stones which came bounding down the hills and kept us continually on the move. Some of the larger pieces must have weighed 400-500 pounds.

For an hour and a half the fire kept us from advancing. Then, keeping a good lookout for the falling rocks, we made our way across the burn to a grove of trees in a little draw which I hoped would up through the cliff. This hope was realized, though it took some step cutting and helping one another. The stone in this draw instead of being gneiss like most of the country rock, was a calcareous tufa, and I at once surmised that there was water present. A few minutes digging with a machete proved that this was so, for we got, first, muddy earth, and then a trickle of water. As I felt sure that the water in the can would be sufficient to last us, and believed this to be still untouched, we pushed on without opening the shring sufficiently for use.

A short distance above this spring we came to some earthen terraces. On asking the man who had been on the expedition of the year before whether he had seen these before, he replied that he had not, as their party had turned back without attempting the passage of the cliffs we had just come through.

After reaching this first man-made terrace there was no

15

more steep climbing that day, the whole mountain side having been terraced for cultivation. There were many potsherds on the ground, and occasional pieces of what were probably once little one roomed huts. About 4 P. M. we stopped to rest and again tried the experiment of firing the grass. Again it worked beautifully, the fire taking and in a few minutes roaring up the mountain cutting almost as wide a path as the one which we had first set and of which we could now see the front some two miles off, the dark red flames jumping 40-50 feet in the air and the smoke making it almost twilight.

The new fire effectually stopped our progress for the day, so we made camp where we were.

The next morning when I went to fill my canteen with water, I found that there was none. The men said they had drunken it but I felt pretty sure that they poured it out believing that then we would have to turn back. I would have done so, though no farther than the spring we had uncovered the day before, but Mr. Bingham had told me there was a spring easily found at Choquequirau and I was confident that we must be near the place. In front of us rose a sharp ridge. I was sure that if we gained its top we would see the city on the other side. The fire had cleared the ground so going was not hard, and had also cleared out the flies. After about two hours climbing we stood on top of the lowest saddle in the ridge. This had been reached after some rather ticklish cliff climbing. On looking over the other side we were tremendously disappointed, for instead of a city there was an impossible ravine. All the morning we worked along the knife edge of this ridge always hoping that the city would come into view and always disappointed.

16

By noon we had come to where the ridge merged into the mountain proper, and were working along its side. After the stop for lunch the men refused to go any farther. They said if they did the it would be merely to die of thirst. That city of Choquequirau was non-existent and that they did not wish to die just because I did. I knew we couldn't make them work, but I thought we could force them to travel. Giving the 22 to Tomas I told him to shoot any man who tried to bolt, but to do it carefully around the edges. Then taking a machete I started ahead cutting the way, and told them to follow. As Tomas stood between them and the back trail they decided to do so, and for two hours we went ahead in that way.

By that time I was just about exhausted as we were working through thick cane and I was going at top speed. Coming out on a little shoulder I thought I saw some ruins on the next spur ahead.

Looking through my glass confirmed it. Then I pointed them out to the men. They too saw them and after that there was no trouble. as They were anxious to get there as I was for we were all suffering from thirst and I had told them there was a spring there. Two hours of hard work placed us on the spur though still high above the ruins. From there we could see several stone houses and two thatched huts which had been left by the treasure hunters who had come from Abancay two years previously. Just at dark we reached these huts. They showed signs of the old occupancy. There were two or three skulls lying around. A table stone or two was in evidence and in one corner was an old Inca pot.

While four of us were fixing camp I sent the other two out to look for water. In an hour they came back with the news that there was none to be found. By this time we were all very thirsty but there was nothing to do but to grin and bear it.

17

About midnight I was wakened by a man crying and pleading. It was Tomas who was having a nightmare. This in itself would not have been serious but it excited the superstitions of the peons. They said the Incas were angry because we were there and they wanted to be gone at daylight. I thought it best to spend some time making a search for the spring, so as soon as it was light we started, and for an hour hunted in the jungle, but without result. The best we could do was to get water from air plants and chew certain bulbs which contained much moisture. This was not such a small help as it might seem, for many of the air plants had a good swallow of water in them, though of course we got it a drop or two at a time.

Giving up hopes of finding a spring near the city, we took the back trail. We were all pretty weak, but we made very fair time. Reaching the ridge we climbed down by a new way, marking our trail with piles of stones, and also followed a new trail back to the draw in which the spring was, striking the draw a good deal higher up. This turned out to be a better road. Also it led us to the discovery of a series of stone faced terraces, and at one point in them the spring broke through so that with a little fixing we could get all the water we wanted, and that was a good deal.

It was fairly late in the afternoon when we reached the spring, and as it was a good place to camp we stayed there all night.

Early next morning we again took the trail. The men by this time were out of food, but we had seen a smoke on the mountain across the way and hoped that more men from Yanama were coming to meet us. Three hours took us to the Amaru and by noon we were at the bridge. About a mile above the bridge we found the

18

ashes of a fire, and hanging to a tree some meat and ground "moraya"
or frozen potato,

I told the men they could have an hour to eat and they
immediately reduced the stock by half. Their appetites were some-
thing wonderful.

We followed the stream a little farther, and then swung
off from the old trail and started up the mountain. It was steep,
almost vertical in places, and we had to cut footholes for every step
we took. Necessarily our progress was slow, and when night came we
were still far from the crest of the mountain. We made our camp
on the sloping hillside, digging benches wide enough to give
us a level place to lie on. Again it was a dry camp, for the one
peon who had been this way before had told us that we would have
no trouble in making Yanama in one day's march from the Amaru, and
we thought we could stand it for that length of time.

We started at dawn and toiled on up, making trail as we
went. It was a slow and tiresome job. When the slopes weren't
very steep, necessitating the making of steps, they were covered with
jungle. Often we had a combination of both. About two o'clock
we reached the top of the mountain and saw what was ahead of us.
We must drop down several hundred feet into the jungle and work
through it some miles, then climb to a point about 3000 feet above
where we then were before the drop to Yanama began. The thirst
was beginning to tell on the men and even without it to bother
them, what they'd gone through in the last six days had weakened
them badly. I picked out the strongest one, and giving him a canvas
bucket told him to hurry ahead and return with water from the first
spring he came to. The rest of us followed as fast as we could

19

without abandoning our packs. We gave up all pretence of trail
making, only cutting enough to let us pass. There was an old trail
along the mountain here, indistinguishable in places and full of
pitfalls made by the rotting out of stumps or by crossed fallen
trees covered with moss. Many places we had to crawl on all fours.
To increase the difficulty a fog settled down so that we could only
see a little ways, and by five o'clock it was dark. If one of the
peons had not been over the trail before and remembered it with the
tenacity of memory of these mountain Indians, we would soon have
been hopelessly lost. All the time we were expecting to be met by
the man we'd sent ahead, but he did not show up.

About 5:30 we emerged from the jungle onto some steep grasslands. Above us we heard shouting, and guided by this--for we who could not see 25 feet,--we found the man who had gone ahead, sitting under a ledge. He had found water, but, judging the bucket would be too heavy, had contented himself by filling his skin water bottle, and of course, his own skin. The bottle held about two swallows apiece for us. This was better than nothing but the thought that it was just this man's laziness that had kept us from having all we wanted, was almost sufficient provocation for a murder.

The place where we now were was slightly protected by an
overhanging ledge from the drizzle that had set in, but it was on
a very steep hillside where lying down was out of the question.
Accordingly we sat up all night.

At the first hint of light we were on our way. When
we could see, we found a very fair trail leading up through open grass
land to the pass we must go over. The men were now very tired, and
while we all stuck to our packs it was only by resting every few
feet that we made progress. About 9:00 A. M. we reached the top,

20

and looking down could see Yanama. A drop of a few hundred feet and we found a spring. There we dropped our loads and spent two hours eating, drinking, and resting. Then another hour and a half took us to the finca buildings.

For the next day and a half I did no work. It would have been impossible to get men anyway, as the mayordomo and Sr. Palma were both away, but I had no desire to. On the second day after my return however I had Tomas catch my horse for me, and rode up to the last pass we had come over. There was a kind of a trail which could easily be fixed into a good one, and most of the way the horse could carry me. Once on the pass I worked with my compass trying to get points that would enable me to plot the route we had traversed. It was foggy making slow work, and about 4:00 o'clock I gave it up. On my return to the finca I found a peon waiting for me with a telegram. In it was word that Dr. Bingham could not come to Yanama, and orders for me to report at Machu Picchu on the 17th, six days off.

The first thing to do was to recover the box of provisions I had cached on the Amaru. Marcelino had pretty well recovered, and I sent him with one man to get it, promising them a good bonus if they got back in three days. The time before their return I put in looking at old prospect holes and looking the country over generally. Every day Tomas and I would start on our horses and try to find out a little more about the country.

On the third day I made only a short trip, hoping that Marcas would show up with mules to take my outfit to Machu Picchu. There was no sign of him. The two men I'd sent after the food box got back however, and received their bonus.

21

The night of the 14th came and still there were no mules.

On that night the mayordomo arrived, and I told him I had to have
animals. He promised to get them for me but did not know how soon
they could be found. We had everything packed, and early on the
morning of the 15th started six men to hunt for pack animals. At
10:30 they came in with two, and at 10:45 the packs were on and
we were ready to leave.

Just then there came a clatter outside and in came
Marcos driving two loaded mules. Also he had a letter directing me
to go in again to Choquequirau, fixing the trail, looking for graves,
and fixing things generally for the coming of a larger party.
Dr. Bingham said he would be in Yanama on the 27 or 28, so I had
just about ten days to get things into good shape.

The first thing to be done was to get more men. No one
wanted to go. I could count on Tomas, Marcelino, and the one peon
who had come with me from Huadquina, the last because he had 20
soles coming to him. The natives around Yanama were all scared
however. Finally the mayordomo said he had four who would go in
with me, and with that I had to be satisfied.

The first days work consisted in making a good mule
trail to the top of the first pass. This I thought the men could
do in half a day, so got everything we were going to take into
bundles, and told Marcos to pack them up the hill that afternoon.
Tomas had charge of the trail making. I went ahead to try to find
a way to get out of going through the jungle we had traversed in the
fog. In order to do this I kept along the very crest of the ridge,
following the course of a ditch the Incas had made. Beyond seeing
a very good piece of engineering I accomplished nothing however.

22

Returning to the pass late in the afternoon I found all the bundles and packs, loads for five men, there. The peons had gone back down the hill but I had left orders for them to come up early the next morning. I had found water in a prospect pit near the top of the ridge, at an altitude of about 13,600 feet, and near it I made my camp, and spent a rather cold, but very pleasant night.

Fairly early the next morning Tomas, Marcelino, and three peons came up. They said the other two would follow soon, so I sent the three peons on ahead with the heaviest loads, and the rest of us waited. Finally, after three hours, I decided they weren't coming. We had two extra packs at the top of the hill and I did not dare to leave them there, so we divided them up, giving us about 100 pounds apiece when combined with our original loads.

It was almost noon when we started after the others and we hurried as hard as we could. After about two miles we came to a place where I thought the goods would be safe, so we had a readjustment, Tomas and I taking about 50 pounds each, and caching the rest. Marcelino was sent back to Yanama with a note to the mayordomo asking for more men and with orders not to come back without them. Then at top speed Tomas and I pushed after the three peons. We made fine time, getting through the jungle quicker than I thought we could, and were soon on the crest of the second mountain, which I called Sharps Preferred. This was a sharp peak and the natural name for it was Needle Peak, but there are so many Needle Peaks I thought I would make this a particular kind, and hence the name. Once round the shoulder of this peak, it was all down hill to the Amaru, but that was easily the worst part of the day. I was wearing moccasins and Tomas had sandals, which in no time the grass had

23

polished so they would slip at the slightest provocation. We over-
took the peons about 3:30, and hurried them all we could, but
were still high above the river when night fell. As there was a
moon we pushed on, or rather fell on, for I imagine we slid as far
as we walked. The mountain side seemed lined with sharp rocks
which cut like knives. At last, about eight o'clock, we reached
the river and by the fire took stock of our injuries. The men were
utterly fagged out. All of us had one or more bleeding cuts on
our feet. However, I felt that we had passed the worst stretch of
trail that we would meet.

We were up and off at dawn. This time we had come
prepared with masks and gloves so the flies did not bother us. We
pushed along as hard as we could and to such good purpose that by a
little after noon we had reached the spring in the rock terraces
on the hillside. The men were very tired though so I gave them
two hours rest. Also we left one foodbox and in its place took the
tin of water. Besides the five gallon can, we also filled a canvass
bucket and my two kettles for use that night. Our progress in the
afternoon was very slow and we camped on the earth terraces where
we had spent a night on the first trip in. We were all so tired
that we rested an hour before getting up energy to make a fire and
cook supper.

I got started ahead of the men the next day leaving Tomas
to bring them along, and kept ahead of them until noon. There were
many bad slopes and I cut steps in these as I went along, thus really
getting the whole party ahead faster than if I had stayed with the
men, for I naturally travelled a good deal faster than they did and
on easily sloping ground could almost make up for time lost while

24

step cutting. My geological pick proved to be an ideal tool for
this work. By noon we were well around the shoulder of the mountain,
and, in spite of time taken to fix the trail, Choquequirau was
reached at 2:15. Dropping our packs, we started right out to look for
water. Some distance away I could see a waterfall, the noise of
which came to us faintly, and thinking that this must be a certain
stream which Dr. Bingham had mentioned the main trail on which he came
as crossing, we decided to try to reach it. Near the huts two years
growth of cane and vines had wiped out any vestige of a path. When
we had cut a way for about half a mile however, we found old cuttings
and followed them. One of the peons was a natural pathfinder, and
he went ahead with a two handed bush hook, the others following and
clearing with machetes. Sometimes the leader would plunge into a
thicket of cane when I would almost have been willing to take oath
that the trail led elsewhere, but he always proved right. For two
hours we went ahead, in places having to clear every step, and in
others having the old trail distinct, but at the end of this time we
were still far from water, the noise of the fall seeming as faint as
ever, so we turned back leaving the finishing of the trail until
morning.

On the way back to the huts we found some little yellow
wild tomatoes, all seeds and skin. These we ate, and soon after chanc-
ing on a fruit which looked much like them, I took a bite out of
it. One of the men happening to see it in my hand told me it was
poison. This was very cheering news, especially as a goodly piece
had already gone down. A finger down my throat proved that the
old rule of "What goes up, must come down," could be reversed, and
beyond a slight dizzy feeling, a burning in the throat, and a
ringing in the ears, I felt no bad effects.

25

The can we had brought with us was still full of water, so we not only had enough to drink, but could use it to cook with, it being practically a certainly that the stream would be reached in the morning.

That night a queer thing happened. I was wakened by hearing Tomas crying and pleading as he had on the first night spent here, and on waking him he told me he had had the identical dream which was that a huge black animal with sharp teeth had seized him by the arm and was dragging him to the cliffs which were on one side of the city to throw him over. This repetition of a nightmare frightened the peons very badly, and they wanted to go home right away. I half expected them to sneak off, but they surprised me by taking my refusal to let them go as deciding the matter, and stayed until I myself was ready to leave.

While the men under Tomas went to finish the trail to the stream I went into the jungle looking for graves, though without much success. The men were back by noon however, with the can filled, and I could then work the whole force at punching holes in the jungle. We made quite a lot of trail and found two graves which had been opened and some places where there might be more. On returning to camp and having a little time before dark, I went rummaging around, and found two water kegs which had been left by the people two years before. One of these was still about a quarter full of water although the bung was out, proving how little evaporation there is in that region. These kegs, with a little cleaning and soaking, were excellent for bringing water in, and allowed us to cut the necessary trips to the stream in two.

All this time, we had heard nothing from Marcelino. The

26

next afternoon however, as we were working on the back trail so as
to make it ready for a quick march when we wanted to leave, he came
limping along followed by three men. He had a tale of woe which
was in truth a sad one. He had had a hard time getting the men,
being delayed two days. Then he had lost one man by a step in a bank
giving way and the man falling about twenty feet, and opening his
head with the box he carried. The man had not been killed, and after
a little was able to walk, so had been given provisions and had turned
back for Yanama. Then Marcelino himself had run a stick into his
foot, and though he had gamely kept on, it was with difficulty that
he could walk, having to use a stick for a crutch. Blood poison had
set in and the foot had swollen badly.

The new party rather than an accession of strength, was
a weakness, as the men had no food. One day was spent with them in
gophering around in the jungle however, and them we made a flying
start for home. I had opened Marcelino's foot and gotten out a
good deal of pus. Then I bandaged it as well as I could and he
said it did not hurt him much. This statement was based more on
fear that we would leave him than on anything else however. While
still dark I started him out on the back trail, and the rest of us
followed as soon as we could see well. As we went we fixed the
trail, putting it into the best shape we could, which was not any too
good. Even at that we reached the spring in the terraces before noon.
Marcelino reached it a little ahead of us, making good time. A
little above the spring we saw a fine bear. He payed no attention
to us, passing about 75 yards away. As on this trip I had brought
no gun he was perfectly safe.

After an hour for lunch we pushed on. A little below
the spring we swung off from the old trail, and I was delighted to
find an old road paved with cobble stones and having steps twenty

font wide, 16

27

feet wide, leading down the hill. This road we followed for a
short distance, then lost it in a slide. For an hour we hunted around
hoping to find a way that would relieve us of the terrible climb
over Sharps Preferred, but finally convinced that every other way
was blocked by cliffs we turned back. On the back trail we again
picked up the Inca road and followed it about a mile, when we came
to where it had gone down into the bed of the Amaru. Here the
bank had slumped off leaving a cliff 100 feet high. There was
nothing for it but to turn back to our own trail. This we did and
reached the Amaru about 4:30. It was beginning to get dark but we
went ahead for another hour and reached and passed the bridge. This
made me feel safer, as the sky was very threatening and I knew that
a flood could prove serious, stopping us for days. With the extra
men in the party there was force enough to make good steps all the
way up Sharps, and fix the trail generally, among other things raking
the dead grass out of it. The men were almost out of food so the
poorest workman was sent ahead with orders to reach Yanama and hurry
back with something to eat.

Though the men worked well we were still a little below
the highest point the trail passed on Sharps when we stopped for
the night. It was drizzling, so I had them make grass shelters.
The rain let up long enough to let us cook supper, and then set in
again. This time there was no thirst, for we had brought water bottles
and pails full from the Amaru.

Another day's work took us to Yanama and left a very
passable trail behind us. It could hardly be called a boulevard, but
there were steps on the steep slopes, the worst pitfalls were filled
up, there were only a few places where one had to crawl on hands and
knees, and there were only two or at most three really dangerous
places for a careful man. On the whole I was very well satisfied.

28

The man who had broken his head was getting well, and Marcelino had reached Yanama and his foot was almost the normal size. With a way by which Choquequirau could be reached, and no men lost in the making of it, I was very well pleased indeed. Now there was nothing to do but wait for Dr. Bingham and his party. As it was the 25th when I got out I expected them on the following day, or at farthest on the day after. Meanwhile I stayed under the covered porch for it rained steadily. The 26th passed this way. Also the 27th and still none of our party came. On the 28th in the evening a party filed into the yard, but it was Sr. Palma, his wife, and numerous servants. He told me that Dr. Nelson of the expedition would arrive from Huadquina on the following day, and that Dr. Bingham was making a circuit and would come in over the Arma road. I was glad of the news for I had gotten pretty well rested, and was ready to be going again. Tomas' and Marcelino's faces lengthened when I told them to get ready for we were going in again, but they said "Very well, senor" and did as they were told.

On the 29th the rain stopped and I climbed the mountain south of Yanama where I could get a view of the trail. Finally, along in the afternoon, I saw some horsemen coming along the Huadquina road. Hurrying to meet them I was delighted to find not only Dr. Nelson, whom I had expected, but also Dr. Eaton. There was also with them a young scion of the Peruvian aristocracy, Carlos Duque, just graduated from Notre Dame University in the states, and a very likable young fellow. With them came Marcos and another arriero, driving three pack mules. Duque also had a servant whom he called his secretary, a boy from his father's hacienda of Santa Ana, whose special duty it was to see that his master was taken care of and kept safe.

29

After some talk, Sr. Palma agreed to let us have five men.
These, with Tomas, Marcelino, Duque's man, and the extra arriero,
made us 13 in all. On the evening of the 29th, Palma Jr. expressed
his wish to go with us, and I told him to come along. The morning
of the 30th was spent in looking over our stuff and deciding what
should go in and what should be left. In the afternoon we started
up the hill, riding, with Marcos bringing all the packs along on
mules. We intended to camp at the top of the hill where I had stayed
once before.

The first thing of note was Duque's losing something off
his saddle, and after turning back for it, and trying to find it,
losing his way and wandering about on the mountain for about an hour,
until Tomas, who was coming after us, heard his shouts, and showed
him the trail.

Palma had not started with us but said he would join us
later. The evening passed without his showing up however, and in
the morning we did not feel like we could wait for him. The peons
came up the hill in good time, and we got off. Having as many men
as we did enabled us to travel better for it left Dr. Eaton and
Dr. Nelson without a pack to carry. This was a good thing for
though both of them were willing and repeatedly expressed their
willingness to carry any load which might fall to them, they were not
used to packing and it would doubtless have been very fatiguing.
As for Duque, the idea of putting a load on a true born son of the
Cuzco 400 is ridiculous. I did give him a camera to carry once but
after struggling under it for about a mile he gave up and turned it
over to a peon who would not mind the small addition having already
75 pounds on his back.

I cannot say that the rest of the party were very en-
thusiastic over the road. No one said that he would like a charming

30

path like that to take a walk on every Sunday when he got home, or even
expressed a desire to make the trip a regular feature of all
Peruvian expeditions in the future. And when someone stepped into
a hole and barked a shin, or slipped on the grass and jarred his
spine, there were even some uncomplimentary terms used. On the whole
however I couldn't really blame them. The trail wasn't their pet.
They hadn't raised it from infancy. All went fairly well until we
struck the down slope leading off Sharps Preferred to the Amaru.
There Duque gave out. He had jammed his small feet, of which he was
proud, into a pair of shoes about half a size smaller than the model
called for, and the result was naturally somewhat unpleasant. He
stuck to it gamely through the woods, but the down hill drop must
have been agony, and besides he was going through a new experience.
Stick-to-it-iveness is not an ingrained quality in the Latin American
I was really surprised to see him do as well as he did. Though
he repeatedly asserted that he could not go a step farther he always
did, and ended up at the Amaru with the rest of us.

With an early start we reached the spring in the terraces
by noon. Again Duque had played out. Eaton and Nelson had been
invaluable at keeping him going, cheering him along and keeping his
spirits up, though they themselves were far from tired. Slow as our
progress had been we were yet far ahead of the men, who were the most
inferior bunch I had gone in with. In fact they were so late in
reaching us that I decided to spend the night at the spring. This
was really just as well, for we were all tired, Duque's feet must
have been very painful, and Dr. Nelson had raised a blister on his
heel. Duque's shoes by this time must have stretched somewhat though,
and both he and Dr. Nelson took my suggestion and greased their socks
with tallow, after which there was no more trouble from feet.

31

The box of food which I had left at the spring on the second trip was still intact. The bears had been at it but had been unable to get into it, and as the men were already well loaded, I decided to leave it right there. We got away early the next morning. All were feeling rested and we made fine time. Near the top of the ridge we stopped to rest. Just as we were about to push on again, Dr. Nelson drew back and pointed out a snake coiled in the trail. Dr. Eaton and I must have stepped over it, and were lucky indeed not to have stepped on it. About this time the snake started to leave us, but by means of the geological hammer he was persuaded to stay. He was a beauty, about two feet long, of a red copper color, with three rows of tiny black dots down his back. He had small poison fangs in his mouth.

Without any extra effort we made our way around the mountain and reached Choquequirau about 3:30. Everything was as I had left it. When I came away I had placed the two kegs, full of water, in a corner, and they were still there. We did not try to do any work in the jungle but contented ourselves with fixing up the camp so it would be as comfortable as possible. When the news came, we sent them after fresh water and they made a record trip getting back in two hours. Then Dr. Eaton produced his flute and we celebrated our arrival with a concert. The next morning there was a thick fog. I had received instructions to aid Dr. Eaton in every way possible, and also to make a survey of as much of the country as I could. As the latter was impossible I devoted myself to the former. We set out hunting for graves, visiting places I had marked on my previous trips.

The first place we dug was in the corner and wall of what had been a small house. From here we got numerous potsherds and llama bones. Also a little mortar and pounding stones, but nothing of

32

great interest. Then in the corner of a little house, the men found three large broken pots, two of them being almost whole. A little ways farther along, after quite a hunt, we found some real graves. I had found an opened one not far off, but the discovery of the unopened one which in turn led to the finding of a regular graveyard, was made by Dr. Eaton.

For the next two days, as the fog kept up, we worked in the one locality. We had offered prizes to any man who found a grave with pottery in it and the peons were all keen on the hunt. One man among them found practically all the graves we examined however, he seeming to have the knack of knowing when a pile of rubbish would show a grave wall if burrowed into.

In spite of the number of graves, many quite elaborately finished, in only one did we find any whole pottery, and in none did we find any metal ornaments or implements. On the evening of the third day of our stay the men all gathered around me and began to jabber at the top of their voices. Tomas translated and said they were all out of food and would have to run for home. That they still had coca, and had said nothing until their food was exhausted, counting on being able to reach Yanama by tightening their belts. This would not do as a hungry man can't travel or pack anything like he should, and there was still work to be done. I therefore looked over our stock of provisions and figured that there was enough for all hands for two and a half days or that there were 78 meals for one man. That was counting the box back at the spring in the terraces. Evidently one days more work was all we could get in, and this was occupied by surveying on my part and by taking notes on the architecture etc. by Dr. Eaton. In the evening we prepared for a flying start. As we were packing out bones and pots, we could not

33

take all of our kit, and a few things had to be abandoned, though
we left little of value.

It was barely gray when the party started up the hill
the next morning. I stayed behind to see that the peons did not
load themselves with anything but when I had put on them for if
given half a chance they would have gathered up glass bottles, and
the sugar and salt we were leaving just so they wouldn't have
more than they could handle on a forced march, and would likely
give out. The packers were started first, Tomas going with them,
and I offered them a prize if they reached the spring before we did.
Then Dr. Eaton, Dr. Nelson, and Duque, accompanied by the secretary,
the arriero, and Marcelino left. I stayed five minutes, and saw
Marcelino coming back, evidently after some of those wonderful
bottles. His surprise when I stepped out was laughable. I
picked up a nice strong cane and he promptly guessed what I meant
to do with it, for without a word spoken by either of us he turned
and went up the hill on a jog trot.

I caught the rest of the party at the head of the spur
on which the city is built. They were all sitting down, resting,
but the peons soon shouldered their loads and moved along. Then
Dr. Nelson made me very uneasy by telling me that Dr. Eaton was feel-
ing very badly. This Dr. Eaton admitted but gamely said he would
stick to the trail, and he kept his word in a wonderful way, for
that day we made the longest march which had yet been made over the
trail. We did not travel fast, but started early and stopped late.
Too much credit cannot be given Dr. Eaton for the pluck he showed
in playing the game out. It might be thought by some that we
should have made an easy march that day but I cannot see it that
way. It was a case of make the march or go hungry, and if anyone

34

was going to come down sick, the nearer Yanama he was when it happened,
the better it would be for all concerned.

At the spring we found that a bear had at last gotten
into the box, having ripped a hole big enough to get a paw into,
and having eaten a good deal of the contents. There was left a box
of crackers, some jam, a tin of oatmeal and several tins of meat
however, and for this we were duly thankful. The spring was reached
at 9:30, the river by eleven thirty, and by two o'clock we were
where the trail started up Sharps Preferred. The men clamored to
be allowed to stop, saying they were exhausted and could go no
farther. I told Tomas to see that they did go farther, up to
a certain point on the mountain where I remembered a flat grassy
place. To the men's argument that they were tired I opposed the ar-
gument that if they didn't go they would be fined one days pay.
My argument proved the stronger, and Tomas' presence with a stout
walking stick (which he never used but liked to carry) encouraged
them to make good time, so when dark came we were camped on the
little flat, high on Sharps Preferred and with the worst piece of
the worst climb over.

Another gray dawn start and steady walking took us
almost to the top of the mountain before the sun reached us. Dr.
Eaton was feeling better and we were all going strong. By noon
we were well into the jungle with only one more climb ahead, and
then the drop to Yanama. The last of the food was finished at
noon but that didn't worry us for at 2:30 we topped the ridge, and
at 3:45 were being greeted by Sr. Palma, having set a record out
from Choquequirau that ought to last some time. Marcos, who had
been left with the mules, was greatly tickled to see us, though
he denied being sorry that he hadn't been able to go in with us.

35

I expect that the pleasures of the trail lost nothing
in the accounts given by the other arriero and Tomas. The other
arriero had had a narrow escape on this last day though we did not
learn of it until he got in at five o'clock. The clinging moss or
lichens on which we crossed one rock face had given way with him,
and he had had a good start for eternity. He struck against a tree,
and hung on until the other men could pull him up with a rope.
It was really a very narrow escape and he was lucky to get out of
it with only a toe nail torn off. Tomas said that the devil had
reached for him but had only gotten hold of the toe. The nail
coming off saved the arriero from being dragged to the pit.

We spent one day in getting our cargoes ready, and then
left for Huadquina. Before leaving I asked young Palma why he had
not come with us, and his explanation was rather rambling, so I
judged that the real reason was poor circulation in his lower
extremities.

The trip out was uneventful but very pleasant, the party
being congenial, and all feeling that the hardest job which would
fall to their lot during their stay in Peru was probably over.

ECONOMIC GEOLOGY.

(By K.C.Heald)

This paper deals with the natural resources seen by the writer
during his work for the Peruvian Expedition of 1912, also with those
of which he heard, with opinions on the reliability of the information.

Coal.- The most extensive deposit seen was one existing on Titi-
caca island and on the adjoining peninsula of Copocabona. The kind, as
nearly as could be determined by superficial examination without any
analysis, is lignite. The formation in which it comes is undoubtedly
Carboniferous. There is one principle bed or seam which varies from
2inches to 4 feet in thickness. The coal is very dirty, and in places
at least, carries much pyrite.

Besides the main seam which appears fairly persistent, there are
in places two others, one of which shows a thickness of 2 feet in one
place, but generally where visible they are not over 3 inches thick.

There is a thin seam of coal a few miles below Cuzco. I merely
saw the outcrop of this seam in passing and took no notes on it. It's
thickness is measured in inches. It has been mined a little but I
know of no one in Cuzco who has used it. Dr. Gregory in his report
on the Cuzco basin doubtless has any information which could be ob-
tained on this seam.

I heard of coal beds in the Province of Taruro, near the town of
that name. Several Peruvian writers have mentioned them and some of
the natives of Cuzco also spoke to me of them. They have been worked
a little but never profitably.

Water.- In the Urubamba valley, the sources where water power
could be developed are numerous. Not only has the Urubamba river it-
self in most places a drop quite sufficient to make it easily available,

(Economic Geology: Heald: 2)

but smaller, more easily handled side streams, are encountered in many
places. These all have a high velocity owing to the steep slopes they
traverse, as they practically without exception head in glaciers thou-
sands of feet above the floor of the valley and not very far back from
it. The larger haciendas all operate their cane mills by water power,
and these water powers could easily be put to work on a larger scale.

The only river on which I took any measurement was the Aobamba. By
rough computation I figured the velocity of this stream near its mouth
to be about 5.89 ft. per sec. and its discharge to be about 233 cu.ft.
per sec. This should be very close to the minimum discharge as it was
well along in the dry season when I made the observations.

The Andiguela which flows past Huadquiña should have a discharge at
least 1.5 that of the Aobamba, though its velocity is not so great. This
1.5 is a minimum figure. It may be 3 or 4 times that as I took no
measurements and those which I asked the hacienda owners to make were
never taken.

I believe that there are three large streams which come into the
Urubamba from the west between Urubamba and Machu Picchu. Of these I
know nothing except that they are probably at least as large as the Ao-
bamba.

The only use the water is put to at present is irrigation, to run
small cane mills, and of course, for drinking and watering stock. Of
one thing there can be no doubt. This is that there is ample to irrigate
all the land available in the Urubamba valley.

In the vicinity of Cuzco, the main streams are the Huataney and the
Huancaro. Besides the main trunks there are numerous small side streams.
None of the water from these large streams is used for domestic purposes,

(Economic Geology:Heald:3)

Cuzco's water supply coming from the lake of Chincheros some 15 miles away, while the lesser towns and fincas are supplied by the smaller branches. The water is used for irrigation however, though the knowledge of irrigation is so poor that there is much land in the valley bottom which bears no crop, but which could be watered and made to produce. There is evidence in the shape of old banks and traces of ditches to show that the Incas cultivated every inch of valley land. The present inhabitants cannot compare with their predecessors either in industry or in knowledge of irrigation engineering.

Of ground water (underground) practically nothing is known, the water supply of all towns in the regions visited being gotten from surface water in rivers, creeks, or lakes.

Of mineral water springs, there are three well known in this region, two near Arequipa - the springs of Yura and Jesus - and one near the Hacienda Huadquiña, in Convención in the Urubamba Valley.

**Building Stone** - The hard gray limestone of Cuzco is an excellent building stone. It would be called a marble by the trade as it is capable of taking a polish. It is very hard and strong, and resists weathering very well indeed. There is a great amount of it around Cuzco and over towards Urubamba.

Farther down the Urubamba valley the mountains are formed of a fine grained granite which is white to red in color. This also is an excellent building stone in that it is strong and resists weathering well, but it would probably be too hard to ever be popular.

**Lime** - The natives burn lime in many places in the province of Cuzco. Near Cuzco itself they make very good lime from a vein of almost pure calcite. By Yauriske there are kilns though what quality of lime they produce I cannot say. At Culpapampa, 21 miles from Huadquiña, they produce lime of very good quality.

**Natural Cement** - There is an impure limestone on Titicaca Island which is claimed to be a good natural cement. Of this I saw no proofs

(Economic Geology: Heald: 5)

either in the shape of analysis or samples which had been burned and
used.

**Salt.**- Salt is produced near Cuzco by evaporating the waters of certain streams which carry a fairly high per cent of NaCl. The source of the salt was not in evidence and no analyses of the water were obtained.

There is a deposit of rock salt somewhere a day's march (30 miles) from Yanáma.

**Iron Ore.**- I saw no deposits of iron ore. There was float on some of the hills near Cuzco. This always consisted of hematite, and was always near Inca ruins, so more than likely it was brought there by the Indians.

**Copper.**- The copper deposits seen by me were a thin streak of carbonates in the Peruvian sandstone near Guaqui, Bolivia, and some veins near Cuzco.

Around Cuzco there are several places where carbonates of copper may be found in the sandstone. Also there were some deposits which were observed near an igneous intrusion. Some of these had been worked either by the Incas or by the Spaniards. Whether the work was for copper or for some associated mineral there was no way to determine. The ores were practically all carbonates. Besides these I of course heard of the well known Coro-coro copper in Bolivia and the Cerro de Pasco copper in Peru. Also the less well known Ferrobamba mines in Peru.

**Lead and Silver.**- There are many veins of silver bearing galena around Yanáma. They appear to be fissure veins, and for the most part

(Economic Geology:Heald: 6)

are of small extent, though there are at least two of quite workable size. No analyses were obtained. These veins were worked for their silver content by the Jesuit fathers many years ago. Their methods of mining were very crude. The ore was gotten out by gophering, small tunnels being put in and following, presumably at least, the richest part of the deposit. I saw no place where stoping had been tried or where any timbering had been done. The ore was evidently carried out in sacks by peons, and was smelted at Yanáma. From what I could gather the ore was smelted in a reverberatory furnace, of which one can still see the foundation, and cupelled on the spot. I saw many fragments of gray slag, and at Huadquiña saw some vats in the sugar mill which had been made from the Yanáma lead.

I was told of rich silver mines in the Vilcabamba region but the information could by no stretch of the truth be called reliable.

**Gold** - In the region around the Urubamba and Apurimac rivers there was very little gold. On the Aobamba river I got a color but no more. The same holds for the Ameru.

In Bolivia I saw placer gold taken from the graves below La Paz. This gold looks much like the California placer product and agrees with that in having much quartz with it, evidently not having traveled a very great distance.

**Tin** - In Bolivia I heard much of the tin ore, and saw many samples, but had no opportunity to visit mines.

**Nickel** - I saw one sample of nickel ore - nickelite - while in Cuzco. The possessor seemed to think he had the secret of fabulous wealth, although he confessed to its being merely a piece of float. It came from the Vilcabamba region.

(Economic Geology:Heald:7)

**Gold** - In the region around the Urubamba and Apurimac rivers there was little gold. I found colors on the Aobamba and the Amaru but nothing more.

I heard of the Santo Domingo mine, which is a quartz vein from which some millions have been taken, and of the Inambari River placer gravels where an English company has spent 250,000£ and taken out 11 oz. of gold. These two are in the department of Puno.

While in La Paz I saw some gold extracted from the gravels there.

ECONOMIC GEOLOGY.

(By K.C.Heald)

Coal.- The most extensive deposit seen was one existing on Titi-
caca island and on the adjoining peninsula of Copocabana. The kind, as
nearly as could be determined by superficial examination without any
analysis, is lignite. The formation in which it comes is undoubtedly
Carboniferous. There is one principal bed or seam which varies from
2inches to 4 feet in thickness. The coal is very dirty, and in places
at least, carries much pyrite.

I heard of coal beds in the Province of Faruro, near the town of
that name. Several Peruvian writers have mentioned them and some of
the natives of Cuzco also spole to me of them. They have been worked
a little but never profitably.

In the vicinity of Cuzco, the main streams are the Huatansay and the
Huancaro. Besides the main trunks there are numerous small side streams.
None of the water from these large streams is used for domestic purposes.

(Economic Geology:Heald:3)

(Economic Geology: Heald: 3)

**Iron Ore** - I saw no deposits of iron ore. There was float on some of the hills near Cuzco. This always consisted of hematite, and was always near Inca ruins, so more than likely it was brought there by the Indians.

Of ground water (underground) practically nothing is known, the
water supply of all towns in the regions visited being gotten from sur-
face water in rivers, creeks, or lakes.

Of mineral water springs, there are three well known in this region,
two near Arequipa - the springs of Yura and Jesus - and one near the
Hacienda Huadquína, in Convención in the Urubamba Valley.

**Lime** - The natives burn lime in many places in the province of Cuzco. Near Cuzco itself they make very good lime from a vein of almost pure calcite. By Yauriske there are kilns though what quality of lime they produce I cannot say. At Culpapampa, 21 miles from Huadquína, they produce lime of very good quality.

(Economic Geology:Heald: 6)

**Gold** - In the region around the Urubamba and Apurimac rivers there was very little gold. On the Aobamba river I got a color but no more. The same holds for the Amaru.

(Economic Geology:Heald:7)

**Gold** - In the region around the Urubamba and Apurimeo rivers there was little gold. If found colors on the Aobamba and the Amaru but nothing more.

I heard of the Santo Domingo mine, which is a quartz vein from which some millions have been taken, and of the Inambari River placer gravels where an English company has spent 250,000£ and taken out 11 oz of gold. These two are in the department of Puno.

PAITA, PERU.

The sea cliff at Paita lends itself readily
to study, the port being entered by practically all
the steamers on the West Coast, and the cliff being
but a short walk from the landing. Owing to this ready
accessibility, several men have been able to contribute
to a knowledge of conditions there.

The first to do any work there was Raimondi. In
his collection of Peruvian fossils which were determined
by W. M. Tobb, there were several from this place.
Grzybowski, sometime later, wrote a short account of the
formations there in his article on the Tertiary of
Northern Peru, and also described some fossils gathered
by him. George I. Adams included a brief account of the
Paita formation in his Outline Review of the Geology of
Peru. Professor Hiram Bingham of Yale made a collection
of fossils there, as did also Professor Bowman of the
same institution. These fossils were determined by

2

The writer estimated a section there and looked over conditions in May, 1912 when acting on the Yale Peruvian Expedition of 1912 under Professor Bingham.

The hills from which the section is determined, rise steeply back of the town to a featureless coastal plain, which stretches some twelve miles in a southerly direction to the mountain known as "Silla de Paita". So far as known, the surface of this plain is formed by the horizontal conglomerates and coarse sandstones such as are to be found in the sea cliff.

The section which was measured by the writer, is made up of a series of marine conglomerates, resting unconformably on shale. This section differs radically from the one given by Grzybowski in that I noted no bed of true sandstone such as he indicated, and also in the thickness of the marine conglomerates. Of these last I estimated a thickness of twenty-eight feet as against fifty meters given by him. Part of this difference may be due to different points of measurement. Besides the

3

unconformity noted above, Grzybowski noted a second, between
the shale and an underlying bed which he called phyllite.
This shows to the west of the town.

The conglomerates are alternately fine and coarse,
resting conformably on each other. They are all made from
the same materials, the variations being in the size and
proportion to each other of the constituent particles and
not in chemical composition. These constituent particles
are quartz pebbles and slabs or flattened fragments of
argillaceous shale. The source of the quartz is unknown
to me. It might come from any of the higher inland hills.
which he
The shale fragments are ascribed by Grzybowski to the bed
calls phyllite. Of these two components the heavier beds
have a higher per cent of the shale fragments and the
finer grained ones of the quartz.

The hardness of the conglomerates is most variable.
In places it will be cemented into a very firm, hard rock,
in others if may be crumbled with the fingers. As a result
the cliff scarps are often interrupted by slopes of gravel.

4

What the cementing substance is was not determined, but is
probably lime with more or less iron oxide.

What bedding is shown in the conglomerates is hor-
izontal. That in the underlying shale was originally so
but there is now a slight angular difference between it and
the overlying beds. The fact that many of the flat stones
in these overlying beds form large angles with the hori-
zontal merely goes to show that they were deposited in the
littoral zone where they might take any inclination, or
in shallow water where wave action reached the bottom or
where strong currents were running.

The formation has been differentiated by Adams as
follows: The shale immediately under the conglomerates
is called the Talara formation. The conglomerates them-
selves are called the Paita formation.. The phyllite
showing to the west was not assigned a name.

The age of the formation as shown by Raimondi's fos-
sils, is Phocine. Unfortunately the exact locality from
which they came is not known. Grzybowski assigned Phocine

5

age to both the Paita and Talara formations, basing it upon
the fossils collected from these formations and determined
by him. The fossils collected by Bingham and by Bowman
agree in giving age to these beds.

The extent of this formation has not been determined.

The section obtained by Grzybowski is as follows:
(From top to bottom.)

(a) 50 meters of conglomerate in layers from .5 to
one meter thick, coarse grained and at times calcareous,
which is made up of very coarse rubble. Here and there
many cobbles have gathered to form a very loosely cemented
conglomerate. The cobbles are almost exclusively the more
or less broken up pieces of the phyllite which outcrops
to the west.

(b) 30 meters of sandstone. The components vary
from hard, medium sized, clear grains, to yellowish, clayey,
weak sandstone. The two materials are not sharply differ-
entiated, and together build a typical sedimentary rock.
There is an unconformity between this and the next number.

6

(c) Schist, yellowish-brown, brittle, and with gypsum
in tiny crystals, and thin, centimeter-thick layers of fine,
clayey, yellow sandstone. The exposed portion is about
twenty meters.

The section estimated by the writer is as follows:
(Numbered from bottom to top.) (See typewritten sheet
No. 7.) (Put in figure of section)

The fossils obtained by Professor Bingham are given
below:----(put in fossils with descriptions)

Bibliography:

1. Neues Yahrbuch. Beilage-Band XII, 1899 "Die Tertiar-ablagermigen des nordlichen Peru und ihre Mollusken-fauna." Josef Grzybowsky.

2. Smithsonian Report 1903. "An Outline Review of the
Geology of Peru." George I. Adams.

3. American Journal of Conchology. Vol.V, part I, page 5.
Description of New Species of South American fossils.
Tertiary by W. M. Tobb.

Note. (Put in copy of phott # 2513. Section was taken near center. Unconformable phyllite shows in lower right hand corner.)

K.C.Heald

SECTION AT PAITA, PERU.

6. 3' Heavy pebble conglomerate. Large, well rounded, colored quartz main constituent. 1 1/2" - 3" diam. Some slabs of clay-stone. Poorly cemented Almost weathered away. Fossiliferous.

5. 10' conglomerate. Yellow gray. Small, sharp, angular pebbles and shell fragments .01" - 1" in diameter, about 1/8" prevailing. Many fossils. Mostly bivalves. No gastropods found. Distinct band of shells appears about 2' from the top.

4. 2' rock fragments 1"-10" across. Well rounded quartz pebbles, and slabs of ash gray clay stone. Good fossils. Gastropods conspicuous.

3. 12' conglomerate, stained yellow by limonite. Fine gr. Fragments of shale, small, well rounded quartz, and slabs of clay stone. Varies from hard to very soft. Horizontal bedding. Has good fossils of marine shells and many casts. The casts are molded in sand and show on the lower 5'. Gastropods and bivalves.

2. 1' conglomerate. Like #4. Bedding horizontal. No cement. Contains some shell fragments, but found no whole shells.

1. 200' + shale, yellow gray, arenaceous, no bedding shown but included band of gypsum shows slight inclination. Further along the coast there is a decided dip. Contains many crystals of gypsum. A few poor fossils near the top.

Scale 1/6'
1m=6ft.

PAITA.
(K.C.Heald)

The section at Paita, Peru, is made up of a series of marine conglomerates, resting unconformably on shale. These conglomerates are divided into distinct beds of coarser and finer material, but the variation in the constituent fragments is only in size and not in composition, in a predominance of quartz pebbles in the finer grained, and, if not a predominance, at least a higher per cent of claystone or mudstone in the heavier beds than shows in the lighter. In both cases practically the whole rock is made up of the two above mentioned constituents.

The cement in the conglomerates seemed to occur in patches. In one place the beds would be almost like fresh beach with nothing binding the pebbles to each other, in another they would be firmly joined to form a hard rock. What the cement was, was not determined. All the beds were more or less stained with limonite, #3 particularly so, but it was not proven that iron oxide was the binding substance.

What bedding is shown in the conglomerates is horizontal. From the fact that the flat mud-stones do not all lie horizontally however, but are inclined at all angles to the vertical, it may be inferred that during deposition there were currents running which in a sand deposit would have left rocks showing marked cross-bedding.

There are no unconformities except the one between the shale and the lowest conglomerate.

All the beds are more or less fossiliferous, the best fossils being gotten from the finer grained deposits. The fossils obtained were all mollusks, and they place the age of the deposit in the Quaternary. There were many bands where the rock was almost a shell limestone.

(Palta: K.C.Heald)

In this section there are eight cycles of development shown as
follows

1. Weathering, but not to base level, of the shale at the base.

The reason why it cannot be said to have been base leveled is because the bed shows old valleys and ridges where the present action of the sea has exposed the section.

2. Slow subsidence and the covering of the shale with shoal water for a short period, during which time #2 was laid down.

3. more rapid subsidence and deeper water conditions, lasting for some time, during which #3 was laid down.

4. Shoaling of the water and beach conditions resulting in the second deposit of heavy gravel (#4)

5. Subsidence and deeper water conditions during which #5 was deposited.

6. Shoaling of the water resulting in another heavy conglomerate.

7. Renewed upheaval bringing the deposits out of the water.

8. Weathering into their present condition.

There is nothing to show that there were not several more beds representing other stages of development. In fact the presence of the many fossils in the top layer of #6 rather leads one to think that must have been the case, as shells are not as a rule common on a heavy gravel beach, except in the shape of fine fragments.

The above deductions are based on observations made during a one hour trip to the top of the measured section, and should be taken as suggestions rather than as statements of known facts.

The Picture Rocks Near Vitor.

On the morning of Dec. 3rd, Mr. Stephenson and I got off the train at Vitor, which we had been told was the nearest place to the Inca picture rocks which were said to be in the desert between Arequipa and the coast. We had left Arequipa about 6:30 A.M., and as the run only took about two hours we had a good part of the day yet before us.

We were agreeably surprised to find a very good hotel there. I mean good for Peru. It is run by an old Belgian who is a very interesting character and whose presence makes the stay much more interesting than it otherwise would be. What a hotel is doing in this place is a point which I cannot elucidate, for as far as we could find out, there was practically no custom. However as his present wife does the cooking, and his numerous children, results of previous experiments in matrimony, do all the rest of the work, his expenses are almost nothing.

When we had gotten our baggage into our room, we immediately started questioning to find the location of the hieroglyphics. The old man said that they were in a place called "La Caldera" and pointed out the direction, but said he did not know the way. A muleteer who said he knew the place refused to go with us. It ended by our chartering two of the craft with the long bowsprits characteristic of the mule family, and starting on a voyage of discovery. We know the general direction, and when we came to a fork in the yrail we always chose the branch that seemed most

likely to take us near hills with rocks on them. After about an hour and a half of riding, Mr. Stephenson saw some markings on a rock, which, on examination, convinced us that we'd found what we were looking for. This rock was on the top of a pass, and looking around we saw several more which also had pictures on them. Another pass about a quarter of a mile farther along also produced pictures but we found no more than these two places.

When we found the picture rocks it was well along in the afternoon. We put in the time that was left us, sketching and photographing, and went back to the hotel with the knowledge that we could finish in one more day. That evening the

That evening the Belgian entertained us with tales of his youth. He had led a very interesting life and should undoubtedly have been hung several times over.

By getting an early start the next morning we finished our photographing by one o'clock, and had time to do a little more exploring. This came to nothing however.

The "Altos de La Caldera" lie about four miles a little S. of West from Vitor. They are hills lying on the very edge of the desert, rising steeply, and with their slopes covered by granite boulders, mostly of small size. On these boulders the Incas carved their pictures by the simple process of hammering, presumably with another rock. This exposed a fresh surface which showed up well. The pictures are in most cases fairly clear, though rudely drawn.

The Picture Rocks Near Vitor.

A muleteer who said he knew the place refused to go with us. It ended by our chartering two of the craft with the long bowsprits characteristic of the mule family, and starting on a voyage of discovery. We knew the general direction, and when we came to a fork in the trail we always chose the branch that seemed most likely to take us near hills with rocks on them. After about an hour and a half of riding, Mr. Stephenson saw some markings on a

rock, which, on examination, convinced us that we'd found what we
were looking for. This rock was on the top of a pass, and looking
around we saw several more which also had pictures on them,
Another pass about a quarter of a mile farther along also produced
pictures but we found no more than these two places.

When we found the picture rocks it was well along in the after-
noon. We put in the time that was left us, sketching and photo-
graphing, and went back to the hotel with the knowledge that we
could finish in one more day.

By getting an early start the next morning we finished our
photographing by one o'clock, and had time to do a little more ex-
ploring. This came to nothing however.

Paruro Trip: Heald: 2)

the transit would take the stadia reading and vertical angle, and
figure the horizontal and vertical distances. I would locate the man
with the open sight alidade on the plane table, and on getting horizon-
tal and vertical distances would locate the rodman on the paper and
sketch in the contours. We ran a regular traverse around the area to
be mapped, but usually oriented the plane table by the three point
problem.

The time spent on the ground was three days. That spent in actual
surveying was two days, one morning being used up in adjusting the
transit and looking over the ground, and one afternoon being lost on
account of rain.

(2)

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 2)

projecting some 10 feet beyond the first span. The shore ends were weighted with rocks, and cross pieces were lashed on with lianas, making the bridge about four and a half feet wide, as far as it went. Then a forked upright 10 feet high was lashed and wedged into place at the end of the first pier.

(See Fig. 1.)

A long light stringer was now pushed out on the completed part, and the end thrust out over the water toward rock #2, the end being held up by a rope fastened around it and passing through the fork of the upright. (See Fig. 2)

This method proved successful, the timber's end being laid on the rock which formed our second pier. Two more light timbers were put across this way, and then a heavy one was tried, part of its weight being borne by the pieces already across, by means of a yoke locked on the end. (See Fig. 3.) This and another piece were successfully passed over, and after that there was little trouble, crosspieces being lashed to the heavier logs and the lighter timbers being used to form the next and shorter span.

The making of this bridge took a day and a half. The next thing was to make a trail to the city. The lower slopes of the mountain were not very steep, and were covered by fairly heavy timber in a moderately open wood. This wood did not extend far back from the stream, however. About a quarter of a mile back the hill rose abruptly and in the place of forest there was cane jungle, presenting a net of tangled canes and vines. Many of the slopes were quite steep, though none would be called precipitous, and there was little bare rock.

MACHU PICCHU

(By K. C. Heald.)

On July 5 we left Cuzco for Mandor Pampa, which was to be the base from which a trail up the Cerro Machu Picchu was to be constructed. One day and a half took us to Ollantaytambo, where laborers were obtained. Two days from there brought us to Mandor Pampa.

In order to reach the city of Machu Picchu a bridge must be made across the Urubamba river, here some 80 feet wide, and a trail made up the mountain. Arteaga, a half-breed living at Mandor Pampa, knew the best place for a bridge having had one there himself the previous year, and also, the way to reach the city. He was accordingly engaged at a wage of one sol per day, to act as guide and to help direct the work of the peons.

The place for the bridge is 1 1/2 miles above the Mandor Pampa. Here the space is broken into four parts by boulders in the river, the longest being about 35 feet, and the shortest, which was the one nearest our own shore, about 8 feet long. The arrangement of the reaches was 8 feet, 35-40 feet, 20-25 feet, 15 feet.

For material we had timber, growing on the bank; for tools, axes, machetes picks, and a coil of rope. The workmen were ten in number, not counting my soldier, Tomás.

The first step was the felling of the timber for the first two reaches. That was quickly done, and the short 8 foot space put in place. Then came the task of getting a stringer to the rock forming the next pier. My first scheme was to lay a log in the water, parallel to the bank, and upstream from the bridge, and fastening the lower end, let the current swing the upper end around until it lodged on the central boulder. On trying this the timber proved to be so heavy that it sank and was lost.

We next tried building out over the water as far as we could. Two heavy logs were put in place with their butts on the shore, and their outer ends

(2)

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 2)

(3)

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 2)

The first part of the trail, that through the woods, presented little
difficulty, all that was necessary being the cutting of a few trees, and the
filling up of pitfalls made by rotting stumps and crossed logs. The part
through the cane, however, was more difficult, as we not only had to cut
every step of the way, but in many places had to cut "gradillas" or foot holes
The cutting of brush was materially lessened by setting fire to the cane, but
even at that it was a tiresome job, and two days were spent in getting the
trail to the city. That done, two more days were spent in making it into a
good pack trail by putting in zig-zags in place of the footholes, so that in
no place was a packer in danger of a fall and bad slide if he stumbled.

After trail and bridge were done, we put in two days at clearing the city,
but, although the men worked well, they made little impression on the vast
amount that was to be done.

MACHU PICCHU

On July 5th I left Cuzco with a string of pack-mules in charge of the
arrieros Mariano Pantigosa and Santos Garcia, a boy, Marcelino Huamán, and
a soldier, Tomás Cobines, with the immediate object of reaching and making a
trail to Machu Picchu.

The first day we reached Urubamba, about a 28 mile trip over easy road.
This first day gave me a chance to size up the outfit. The mules were in good shape, and very fit for the trip. The arrieros were very poor, neither one having the art of putting on a pack so it would stay balanced. The boy was willing, but stupid, but the soldier made up for him, being willing and far from stupid.

We reached Urubamba soon after dark and went straight to the house of
sub-prefect Ochva, for whom I had a letter. He was very hospitable, asking
me to sit down to supper, and later doing what is, so far as I know, a very
rare thing in Peru, furnishing me with a bed. This was the only place I ever
stopped where the guest was not supposed to supply his own bedding.

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 4)

(4)

Next morning the sub-prefect gave me a letter to the gobernador of Ol-
lantaytambo, ordering him to supply me with men to go with me to Machu Picchu,
and I travelled on down the valley, reaching the above-mentioned town about
2:00, the distance being about 13 miles. A little hunting brought the gober-
nador to light. He was in a state of mild intoxication, but quite able to
read the sub-prefect's letter, and he assured me that all that was ordered
should be done. Then he left me very abruptly, and when I sent Tomás to find
him an hour later I learned that he was dead drunk. As there was evidently
nothing in the way of supper to be expected from him, I got out the primus
burner from the packs and cooked up my own meal. Then, taking possession of
a bedstead in the room in which I was, I got into my sleeping-bag with the
intention of getting a good night's sleep. It was not to be, however, for
the light had not been out five minutes before something lit on my face and
sampled it. From that time until morning I fought the insects, whatever they
were, but with such little effect that when I got up next morning I looked
like a smallpox patient.

The next morning was spent mainly in foiling the wily gobernador who was
bent on separating me from some of my money. First he said that he should
really receive two soles per man. To that the obvious reply was that perhaps
he should, but that he wasn't going to. Then, a little later, he brought
around an haciadero, explaining that he himself could get no men, but that
the haciadero could, and would, for one sol each. I told him that if he
couldn't comply with the orders of the supreme government, my friend the pre-
fect of Cuzco would doubtless oblige the Expedition by appointing some one
who could. A third time he came with two men, saying that they would go, but
would need double the wage I paid, that is one sol instead of 50 centavos a
day. Again I had to refuse his magnanimous offer. Along toward evening he
asked me to come to the jail as he had "collected" eleven men, and I should
give them each an advance so as to contract them. The jail was an enclosure
with a high adobe wall and one small room for refractory prisoners. The man-

(5)

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 5)

ner of "collecting" the laborers had been to go out into the streets and grab them, hauling them to the jail.

When I entered the jail yard I was greeted by an uproar of Quichua, each man telling me at the top of his voice why he could not go to work in the juncle. I had been told that this was their usual proceeding, however, so paid no attention to the noise, and had the men line up, and giving them each $1.05 the sol being an advance and the $.05 a present. Then, leaving my soldier with them to see that they did not get drunk, I went back to my room, cooked supper, and, moving my bed into the air, went to sleep.

Next morning we started. It was rather a difficult proceeding. I had engaged an ex-soldier named Varias to act as "captain" of the laborers, and he marshalled them into the street with a stout stick in his hand, which, however, was only for looks, as I never saw him use it. The pack train I sent on ahead, but had Tomás ride behind the peons to see that none ran away.

As we went down the street the men would stop and embrace about every other person they met, but we finally got them clear of the town. Our troubles did not stop there, however, for at the first sign we passed the owners came running out, and wanted to know what right I was taking their laborers. It seemed that the gobernador had a grudge against them, and had given me four of their men. As I needed the men as badly as they did, we finally struck a compromise by each taking two, and they refunding the advance I had given.

After that I thought all would be plain sailing, but some two miles farther along another haciendero claimed a man. He had a written contract to prove it. The man also admitted it. That ended in my paying seven soles. Five for the advance the man had given the peon, and two for the broken contract. This was charged against the workman, as he said he would rather go on with me than stay behind.

After this I had no trouble with men trying to take away the peons, but had quite a bit with the peons themselves. Having money, they were bound to

(7)

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 7)

blade, and probably reaching his heart. This sight had a very unwholesome
effect on my laborers, for they immediately conjectured that if one man could
be killed, another could, and they all asked me most volubly and vociferously
to be allowed to return home. On reaching Mandor Pampa, however, they seemed
to get over their fear and joined enthusiastically in the preparations to
bury the dead man.

At Mandor my first care was to see Arteaga, the man who lived there, and
who knew the best place for a bridge over the river and a trail up the moun-
tain. He was somewhat drunk, in fact I never saw him when he wasn't, but
after a little parley he contracted to give me his services until I reached
Machu Picchu, for the consideration of one sol per day. That attended to, I
pitched camp a little below his house, putting up my tent and stacking the
food boxes, of which there were 27, in a pile where they could be covered
from the rain.

The next morning we went up the river a mile and a half to where Arteaga
said the best place for a bridge was. There were several places where one
could be made, but this was undoubtedly the best, as there were three big
rocks in the stream, which divided it into four reaches shorter than I could
find anywhere else.

The first thing to do was to cut a path from the road to the river. A-
bout forty yards. Thatof course was simple. Then, choosing the tallest
slender trees, we felled and trimmed them. There was splendid timber for
bridge making, its only fault being its weight. The trees were tall and slen-
der for their height. The question of stringers was easily answered there-
fore, and there was also quite a bit of the easily split "cedro", which made
excellent crosspieces or flooring. After one false start, when we lost a nice
piece of timber by trusting it to the stream and having it sink like pig iron,
the work went steadily along. While my peons did not do a quarter of the work
that white laborers would have done, they did very well for natives. I found
that an occasional mild kick, and a reward to the best worker at the end of the

(8)

(Machu Pichu: Heald: 8)

day did far better and pleased them much more than talking to them. Every-
one except the kickee enjoyed the physical remonstrance against laziness, and
he mostly took it with a grin. Also with an accession of energy which was
very gratifying.

Their habit of stopping three times a day to renew their cuds of coca
is a nuisance, but one for which there is no remedy.

On the second day of work we finished the bridge about noon, and start-
ed making a trail up the hill under the guidance of Arteaga. After the first
quarter mile the going was very slow. Not only did the steepness of the slope
and the tangled condition of the cane jungle retard us, but the men were very
much afraid of snakes, a fear which proved itself justified, for one of them
was very nearly bitten by a little gray snake about 12 inches long.

The second day's work on the trail took us to the city. The path was
still far from finished though. There were many places which were almost ver-
tical, up which we had to cut steps. Up these places we now made zig-zags,
so that there was comparatively little difficulty in climbing.

On the first day I had set fire to the cane in order to clear the trail.
This fire did not clear much, however. On the second day I was about a quar-
ter of a mile behind the workmen, or rather above them, when suddenly Tomás,
who was with me, said: "Look, they have fired the cane." Sure enough, they
had started it, and in a minute it had gained a head and was roaring up to-
ward us, the flames reaching 15 to 20 feet into the air. There was nothing
for it but to run, and we did that, tearing through the jungle down hill in
an effort to get around the side of the fire. Suddenly, on one of my jumps,
I didn't stop when I expected to, but kept right on through the air. The
brush had masked a nice little 8 foot jump-off, and I got beautifully bumped.
In a minute there came a thump, and Tomás landed beside me. It amused me so
much to watch him that I forgot all about my own jolted bones. There was
nothing broken, and we made our way without much more trouble around the fire
and fell upon the peons who were gathered in a bunch, speculating as to where

(9)

(Machu Picchu: Heald: 9)

we might be.

With the trail done, I started to clear the city of Machu Picchu.
When I got there there was little to be seen of the houses under their cov-
ering of vines, trees, cane, and moss. One Indian family lived up there, hav-
ing a trail up from the other side from which I approached, which was, however,
impracticable for a man with a pack, or in rainy weather, for anybody. This
family had some of the old terraces cleared, and on them raised corn, pepper,
and pumpkins. They also had a trail to one of the springs from which the old
inhabitants must have gotten their water. For the most part, however, the
ruins were pretty well hidden under jungle. I moved my camp up, cleaned out
the spring, and started clearing, but before much was done the arrival of the
main party under Dr. Bingham relieved me of the work, sending me on to pas-
tures new.