Part II - data edition - 14 January 1977

BALTIMORE SUN 14 January 1977

The Kissinger Era

Henry Kissinger's acute sense of irony must be tickled by the confirmation testimony of President-elect Carter's nominees. Although they pay obeisance to their chief's campaign rhetoric about candor (they're for it) and covert operations (they're against them most of the time), their greatest loyalty seems to be to Mr. Kissinger's foreign policy. Modalities and style will change—for who could be another Henry? —but the substance of Kissinger diplomacy lives on: Indeed, the testimony of Harold Brown indicates that the next Secretary of Defense may be closer to Mr. Kissinger in his views about strategic weapons and the Soviet threat than the current secretary, Donald Rumsfeld.

Mr. Brown told the Senate Armed Services Committee he did not put much faith in "worst case" Pentagon estimates that the Soviet Union is driving for nuclear superiority. "I'm concerned that the controversy over strategic nuclear weapons is taking our attention away from what may be more important politically...," said Mr. Brown. "I would like to (switch) the focus to conventional forces."

Compare that to Mr. Kissinger's assertion this week that the idea of nuclear supremacy has no "operational significance" when casualties on both sides would be in the tens of millions. "The military danger we face is in respect to regional conflicts," he said, adding that conventional and tactical nuclear forces must be strengthened, especially in Western Europe. Mr. Kissinger's successor, Cyrus Vance, told Congress there is "general parity" between the two superpowers, (i.e., not Soviet superiority) and proclaimed that "detente is back in the vocabulary."

The endurance of Mr. Kissinger's policies is as much a tribute to his genius as to his realism. When he moved into the Nixon White House, he

perceived the world as a place in which totalitarian Communist power could be checkmated only by brilliant and bold leadership in the slack and divided democracies. He eagerly seized this leadership, in many ways eclipsing the two Presidents he served. His admirers were awed by his ego and his intellect, his detractors appalled by his duplicity and ruthlessness. Yet in the end Mr. Kissinger did more to influence the international atmosphere than any man of his time. He established a remarkable personal rapport with men as diverse as China's Chou En-lai and Egypt's Sadat, cowed his bureaucratic rivals and tried to make American foreign policy conform to his global conceptions of how to keep a little order in a disorderly world.

Yet even Mr. Kissinger, probably not to his surprise, found the world rather hard to manage. His achievements in arms control and the Middle East, for example, were offset by his failures in Cyprus and Angola. Yet as he came under election year attack from left and right, he never ceased trying to shape events—pushing for a SALT II agreement when the Pentagon balked, bringing his personal shuttle diplomacy to southern Africa and keeping alive prospects for a new Panama Canal treaty. After the November election, the controversy swirling about the rotund Mr. Kissinger started to abate. Even Congress took its scolding well when Mr. Ford read it a Kissinger-inspired lecture on the dangers of legislative interference in foreign affairs. Many Americans are starting to realize they will miss having Mr. Kissinger at the center of the Washington scene he so dominated for most of eight years. His humor, his brashness, his sense of drama, most especially the reach of his mind—these are talents he has in an abundance rarely seen.

THE WASHINGTON POST

E2 Saturday, Jan. 29, 1977

...R

# Hughes: A Life Out of Sight

Reviewed by Russell Sackett

The reviewer, currently a free-lance writer, covered Howard Hughes extensively as a senior editor of Life and a national correspondent for Newsday.

Long before it was considered chic, Jim Phelan was an investigative reporter, and a good one. The Saturday Evening Post, to which he was a regular contributor, was still a weekly magazine, only beginning to discover how to lose money, when he first tackled the Howard Hughes story.

Hughes, whose regard for the press even in those days was baleful, reacted with typical grace; Phelan was offered a substantial check and unlimited free travel via TWA, which Hughes owned at the time, if he would simply forget about the story. Certain other writers, not unlike certain political figures, had unlike and have rationalized taking Hughes's money. Phelan declined, marking him among Hughes' legions as a man to be watched closely. (On two later occasions, Hughes agents would manage to obtain copies of Phelan's manuscripts before he could even get them to his publishers.)

As Hughes systematically dropped from sight, Phelan persisted, accumulating massive files and cultivating reliable sources under the most trying circumstances. He became a leading authority on the strange and powerful man whose consuming wish, to be alone would take him past eccentricity and into the grotesque, his wealth subsidizing at great cost a style of life whose wretchedness and isolation no

## Book World

HOWARD HUGHES: The Hidden Years. By James Phelan

(Random House, 201 pp. $7.95)

Angels," his introduction of flush-riveting to airframe manufacture, or the support systems he devised for Jane Russell's anatomy—was what the author calls Hughes's "Secrecy Machine." It not only made life miserable for reporters, but enabled Hughes to dodge service of court orders, to avoid taxes and to force the whole rotten world to deal with him only through plenipotentiaries who were themselves never permitted to see him, and whom he could renounce at will.

At the heart of the Machine was a handful of purposeful and uncommunalistic men to gladden the heart of an old Fleming. They were known as the "Palace Guard," or the "Mormon Mafia" — all but one of them were Mormons, and they took their orders from Frank William (Bill) Gay, a key Hughes executive of long standing who was also a Mormon. These men at tend-Hughes' basic needs and catered to his caprices around the clock, handling his mail, filtering incoming phone calls, feeding him, giving him enemas, bathing his bedsheets, running his ubiquitous movie projector—keeping the world away from him, and him from it.

Toward the end, the Machine even protected Hughes from himself, a classic science fiction climax wherein the master is engulfed and absorbed

this might make a suitable sitting room, which he had not had in years. The guard blanched, and then stammered that passing helicopters could easily take pictures of him—"Here is your room, Mr. Hughes." And Hughes was led into yet another tiny bedroom with sealed windows; soon, he climbed back in bed and began watching a movie; life returned to abnormal.

Another dangerous onset of sociality occured at Nicaragua, a country which, aside from poor communication facilities and earthquakes, Hughes admired very much. In a rush of gratitude, Hughes arranged a meeting with President Anastasio Sonora and U.S. Ambassador Turner Shelton. Mell Stewart is summoned from eternal standby to spend hours bathing and trimming and shaving Hughes for the meeting, which lasts nearly an hour and is marked by cordial, ungloved handshakes, It would happen once more, before Hughes fell and broke a leg in London. But after that he never again got out of bed under his own power until his death more than two years later.

In some literary quarters there has been a tendency to cite Howard Hughes as the modern apotheosis of solitude-seekers. Nonsense, says Phelan. The gap between Thoreau at pondside, contemplating the lot of mankind, and a ravaged Howard Hughes sitting naked in a sealed hotel bedroom, flicking his attention from the unprejudiced screening of "Ice Station Zone," to the recalcitrating logistics of his next marathon trip to the bathroom over a fresh path of Kleenex put down to protect his feet from con-

## Catering and Banquet Professional

Refined individual experienced in the planning and execution of elegant social and business functions desired for excellent position with enviable opportunity. Describe past experience and qualifications in letter to Box # M1910

## Semi-Annual Savings

Accent tables that accent savings!

Mahogany (Genus Swietenia of the Meliaceae family) exposed surfaces.

Pie crust table 25" in diameter and 25" high 188.75

Pembroke table has inlaid maple stripe around top, satinwood banding. 296.75

Limited quantities.

OUR FOR

POTTERY FAIR

STOREWIDE SALE
25% OFF

FINE CHINA stoneware

stainless flatware gourmet cookware

barware crystal stoneware

casual furniture table linens GIFTS

25% OFF

ON ALL PURCHASES OF $3.00 OR MORE

THROUGH FEBRUARY

ITEMS DISCOUNTED MORE THAN 25% ARE EXCLUDED

CHEVY CHASE STORE
5534 CONNECTICUT AVE.

VIRGINIA STORE
LOEHMANN'S PLAZA

Mission Austerity [103]

MONDALE, From E1

derstand that there would be no gifts exchanged. The only exception was a compromise worked out with Pope Paul VI, who was allowed to bestow a papal medal on Mondale. In return, Mondale gave the Pope a commemorative medal of President Carter's inauguration.

The actual amount of savings for taxpayers is still not clear. Some of the expenditures cut out of the travel budget will instead be picked up by embassies, making Mondale's balance sheet look better but not changing much in the big picture.

Getting the 100 journalists to pay for their own booze at the Crillon shaved $1,500 off the trip's expenses, Mondale aides proudly let it be

known. Kissinger never socialized with reporters who were not traveling with him and were, to a great extent, dependent on his version of the business he was conducting.

Among the guests at the Crillon was Pierre Salinger, John F. Kennedy's press secretary and now an occasional columnist for a Paris weekly news magazine. Salinger is reliably reported to be on the list of names submitted to President Carter for the post of Ambassador to France.

Among other names that have reportedly been discussed in the White House are former Undersecretary of State George W. Ball, Chase Manhattan Bank Chairman David Rockefeller, who reportedly is not interested in the job, and Atlanta Coca Cola executive J. Paul Austin.

considered dangerous weapons.

Producer Samuel Goldwyn Jr., 50, son of the movie industry pioneer, has been arrested on a misdemeanor prostitution charge for allegedly soliciting an undercover policewoman in Hollywood

With an emotional plea, disabled author Michael Shaara, 47, Thursday won continuation of his Florida state

in January. Jimmy has been a self-employed peanut farmer in Plains, Ga. since leaving a Georgia state government position in January 1974.

"Jimmy appears to be very pleased with his new position and has indicated that he and Rosalynn expect to be at their new address at 1600 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W. for at least four years." Let's hear it for the class of '47.

—Karen De Witt

# 'Washingtonian' Awards

By Karen De Witt

The blustery winter weather didn't keep "Washingtonians of the Year" in —they were all out at the sixth annual dinner-dance held at the Washington Hilton last night

back to the magazine after his leave, he said.

Limpert said he had informed Washingtonian magazine owner Laughlin Phillips earlier in the week of his decision, but Phillips said Limpert

A FIGURE IN HISTORY

How much is the world going to regret the departure of Dr Kissinger from the State Department? He has been one of the most remarkable men ever to hold high office in the United States. Almost single-handed he has managed American foreign policy through eight years of turbulence and demoralization, through the withdrawal from Vietnam, Watergate, the Middle East war, the oil crisis, a worldwide recession, the resignation of Mr Nixon and the defeat of Mr Ford. His absence will take some getting used to. The first crisis that has to be solved without him will measure the width of the gap he leaves.

History is likely to give him a mixed verdict. His talents are not disputed, nor his dedication to the pursuit of peace. He brought greater depth of thought to the job than most of his predecessors. He won acclaim for the clarity of his conceptions, the energy with which he pursued them, and, the high hopes he raised. He seemed often, very near to snatching a major settlement from the brink of crisis.

Throughout the Watergate affair he performed one of the most difficult tasks in the conduct of any nation's foreign policy: to preserve the Government's authority abroad when it has lost authority at home. The decline and fall of President Nixon might have been accompanied by the collapse of American influence and interest in the outside world. That this did not happen was almost entirely Dr Kissinger's personal achievement. His prestige was such, both with the leaders of other countries and with the American public, that he was able to maintain the vigour of United States foreign policy at a time of international as well as domestic crisis. He was the point of stability when all else was disintegrating around him. For that alone he would deserve to be judged well by history.

tion of Cambodia, not even negotiating points can justify this. It remains an appalling shadow across his record, a savage and pointless misuse of power against a small and fragile country.

In the Middle East he achieved a fragile partial settlement after the 1973 war, and the world was properly grateful, but nagging doubts remain that he might have won a more comprehensive settlement, or that the war itself might have been avoided if American diplomacy had been active earlier. In Africa neglect also led to crisis, and then to being outmanoeuvred in Angola. Now the fragile outline of a Rhodesian settlement looks threatened by the partial deception with which it was achieved.

But Dr Kissinger's central concern was the balance among the great powers. He arranged the long overdue opening to China, which remains a lasting contribution even if severely limited by the unsettled problem of Taiwan. He also achieved a new level of understanding with the Soviet Union. He saw rightly that the Soviet Union was emerging as a global power and that the United States could not rely only on straightforward military containment. His aim was to manage and contain the emerging power, to restrain it with interlocking arrangements, and to try to educate the ruling elite towards more responsible and informed attitudes.

He 'seemed to be succeeding for a while, with the first Salt agreement, the rise in Jewish emigration, and the important Soviet decision to expose itself to world trade and to give high priority to relations with the United States. Of course the Soviet position was tactical in the sense that the Russians could not abandon their revolutionary ideology, but they did seem ready for a breathing space which could, provide openings for

ing place, influenced as much by struggles for freedom, justice and economic equality as by the deployment of military force. Perhaps Dr Kissinger strove too hard for stability. With his early memories of the breakdown of Germany he believed order to be more important than justice, and this may have blinded him to many of the pressures that drive events. For instance, he ignored warnings on how black Africa would react to the South African invasion of Angola, and he failed entirely to appreciate the European desire to make respect for human rights a condition of détente in Europe, so that he pressed impatiently—and fortuitously in vain—for a quick agreement that would have given the Russians most of what they wanted.

Hard to follow

Altogether his hopes for a world order managed by the five main centres of power have come little nearer realization. Conflicts of interest between the Soviet Union and the United States have proved too acute, though perhaps milder than before. The other power centres are unready for the burden, and the countries allotted subordinate roles are not willing to accept them. The world has not measured up to Dr Kissinger's expectations. It is swept by feelings for which he has little sympathy and by forces which are insufficiently responsive to his reasoned approach and to either the political example or the military power of the United States.

He has been brilliant but limited, open in the exposition of his policy but deceitful in its execution, understanding towards adversaries while impatient with allies, persuasive with foreign statesmen but unable to win the sympathy or support of his own Congress—a failure that has cost him dear. His act will be in some ways very hard to follow, but

was bound to provoke waves in the untapped
reservoir of American moral idealism. Contain-
ment, in order to get support at home, only had
to mobilize the nation around the flag, and for
the ideal of defending "the values of the free
world." The far more complex Kissinger policy
required domestic persuasion: An "age of nego-
tiations" abroad needed an age of bargaining at
home. But he and Mr. Nixon relied on showman-
ship too long.

Does all this amount to a fiasco? Paradoxically,
the answer is no. The Kissinger legacy is posi-
tive in two respects. First, his greatest talent
has been his skill as a negotiator, not as a "con-
ceptual thinker," to use a lovely pleonasm. It is
in personal diplomacy that he has best used his
sense of power, his incisive analytic mind, his
psychological astuteness, and his formidable
powers of concentration.

And it is there that he has obtained important
breakthroughs, however much one may regret
that he did not use those skills earlier (as in the
Middle East before the war of October 1973, and
in Rhodesia) or wish that he had used them less
cautiously (as in his step-by-step diplomacy, or
in the rest of southern Africa).

It is through these skills that he has forced
the admiration of many foreign leaders, thus
maintaining United States prestige despite Wa-
tergate and Vietnam.

Secondly, he has been flexible and resourceful,
capable of changing direction whenever the pre-
vious course had run into a dead end, or a stone
wall: Hence, the new beginnings in the Middle
East, in Rhodesia, in North-South relations, in
anti-nuclear-proliferation policy, the return to
consultations with allies, and, at home, the cam-
paign of speeches aimed at regaining support.

Although he has left them without a design,
it is on the foundations that he started to lay
down in the last couple of years—when he was
trying to cope with each new crisis, and after
he had given up the dream of folding the world
into his formula—that his successors will be able
to build.

Ultimately, therefore, his "myth" lies not in
the tasks he had set for himself, nor even in his
achievements, which are both controversial and
fragile, but in what he is: in his character, as
demonstrated by his gifts of persuasion and
resilience.

Stanley Hoffmann is professor of government at
Harvard.

WASHINGTON POST
THE JANUARY 24, 1977 EDITION

Carter and Brzezinski Stress
What NSC Chief Will Not Do

By Murrey Marder

Washington Post Staff Writer

If Zbigniew Brzezinski is ever transformed into an all-powerful replica of Henry A. Kissinger in the Carter White House, it will not be for any lack of assurances that it will not happen.

No other office in the Carter administration is being established with comparable declarations about what it will not do.

Foremost among the assuredly is Brzezinski, who has his National Security Council staff nearly three-fourths completed. Figuratively hanging over Brzezinski's operation is an array of warnings by President Carter and Brzezinski of the dangers that reside in the aggrandizement of power and "Lone Ranger" diplomacy.

Looking on, not dispassionately, are veterans and newcomers at State, Treasury and other departments. They learned from the Kissinger era that ambition, plus proximity to the President, can outweigh any diffusion of power that is proclaimed or inscribed on organizational charts. Only experience will dispel, or confirm, suspicions that Brzezinski might duplicate Kissinger in converting the post of presidential national security affairs adviser into a launching pad for preeminence in the government.

There are fundamental differences, however, at the outset. Not least of them is the attitude of the No. 1 man in the White House.

President Nixon wanted foreign policy to be run out of the White House with utmost secrecy: he and Kissinger shared disdain or distrust of the bureaucracy. President Carter and Brzezinski have proclaimed the opposite approach. Carter, in addition, has been insistent that he alone will control the formulation of policy.

Kissinger, before coming to office, said, "It is dangerous to separate (policy) planning from the responsibility for execution." But he embraced that danger, nevertheless, on grounds that "the only way secrecy can be kept is to exclude from the making of the decision all those who are theoretically charged with carrying it out."

Brzezinski, though no less eager than Kissinger to display dynamic capacities, last week took the opposite tack:

"I conceive my challenge to be to prove that in a highly complex world of political, economic and security challenges, a team effort can work. Anything less than a team effort would not give us the kind of comprehensive policy that we need," he said.

Brzezinski recognizes that critics are bound to scoff. But the 48-year-old former Columbia University professor maintains that not only does he mean it, but that Carter, who called himself

Brzezinski's "eager student" in world affairs, means it most of all.

The President took a direct hand in designing the new NSC staff system, another source said, and "threw out" the original structure submitted to him on grounds that it was too complex and inflexible.

What the new NSC operation intends, it is said, is "to put more authority back into the departments." to fix responsibility for an issue in a single department to the maximum extent possible and to give the President opportunity to participate in the system when he desires.

Brzezinski's NSC deputy is David L. Aaron, 38, a former Kissinger NSC staff member and later foreign policy adviser to Walter F. Mondale, who directed the NSC transition staff.

The new NSC staff accents youth, imaginativeness, doctoral degrees and a more liberal political orientation than the staffs that more recently worked for Kissinger or his successor, Brent Seewort.

A leaner, "more collegial" system is planned with a cut from about 50 staff members at the Kissinger peak to about 20 for Brzezinski.

Instead of seven interdepartmental committees chaired or dominated by Kissinger, there will be two. One is the Policy Review Committee, to include formal NSC members (the secretaries of State, Defense and Treasury, director of central intelligence, chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, and national security affairs adviser to the President) plus other agencies as required. Chairmanship will depend on the subject: Carter may join in. The other is the Special Coordinating Committee, chaired by Brzezinski, on crises, covert intelligence operations and what are labeled "cross-cutting issues," such as arms control policy.

(Brzezinski also is a member of the administration's Economic Policy Group).

The declared purpose of the NSC staff is to coordinate policy and to serve as a "think tank" rather than to make policy. That distinction disappeared in the Kissinger years—and may again.

Brzezinski has looked for staffers described as "sensitive to the global challenge." He has created a Global Issues Office to cover a range of subjects from U.N. affairs to arms sales, nuclear weapons proliferation and human rights.

Heading this office will be Jessica Tuchman, 30, daughter of historian Barbara Tuchman. Jessica Tuchman received a Ph.D. in nuclear biophysics and biochemistry after studying three years at California Institute of Technology and two years at Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

A North-South office will encompass Latin American, African and

Asian issues. It still lacks a chief: Robert O. Pastor, 29, of Harvard has been named for Latin American affairs.

Other offices and staffers are:

* European affairs—William G. Hyland, former Central Intelligence Agency official, senior adviser to Kissinger on Soviet affairs, State Department intelligence director and, most recently, NSC deputy to Seewort. Also, Robert P. Hunter, foreign affairs adviser to Sen. Edward M. Kennedy (D-Mass.).

* Middle East affairs—William Quant, former NSC staffer under Kissinger, later on the faculty of the University of Pennsylvania.

* Far Eastern affairs—for China, Michael Oxenberg, professor at the University of Michigan; for Japan, Michael H. Armacost, Foreign Service officer.

* Policy Analysis Office—headed by Victor A. Utgoff, from the Center for Naval Analysis, a Ph.D. in electrical engineering from Purdue, specialist on weapons and strategy; also NSC holdover Roger Molander, specialist on nuclear strategic arms.

* Economics—chief still unnamed: to include holdover Robert D. Hormats.

* Intelligence—includes holdovers Samuel Hoskinson, former CIA national intelligence officer, and Air Force Col. Robert Rosenberg.

Other NSC staff members include special assistant Karl F. (Rick) Indurthi, 30, former legislative assistant to Sen. Gary W. Hart (D-Colo.) who worked on the special and current Senate intelligence committees; also Col. William Odum of West Point.

Among Washington power-watchers, interest was piqued last week when Brzezinski added as a staff member a veteran journalist, Jerrold L. Schecter, 44, diplomatic editor of Time magazine, with the title of "associate press secretary/congressional liaison, National Security Council." In the past, NSC press liaison has been a routine function.

Brzezinski disclaims any aggrandizing intentions. He also maintains that the rivalry that developed between Kissinger and other Cabinet members is doubly unlikely in his case because of the shift in the NSC pattern, and especially because of his prior close friendship with current Cabinet members.

He was associated with Secretary of State Cyrus R. Vance. Defense Secretary Harold Brown and Treasury Secretary W. Michael Blumenthal on the Brzezinski-initiated Trilateral Commission, and also worked closely with Vance on other projects.

Vance, in any event, is moving out to establish primacy as Carter's global envoy. He already has scheduled a February trip to the Middle East, and a March trip by Vance to the Soviet Union is projected.

THE WASHINGTON POST

B4

Friday, January 14, 1977

Sorry, No Floating Bullfights...

By William Claiborne

NEW YORK—It could only happen in New York. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals yesterday arrested a Manhattan man and a self-described “matador” in the promoting of a bullfight to be held Jan. 29 on barges anchored in the Atlantic Ocean several miles off Coey Island.

John Hoffman and his "matador" were arrested while conducting a news conference in front of the Plaza Hotel and charged with violating a New York State agriculture and markets law prohibiting the promotion of fights between animals. The charge can carry a 10-day jail sentence and a $1,000 fine. Under the state law, ASPCA is empowered to make such arrests.

Duncan Wright, New York ASPCA executive director, said tickets had been selling for $25 with promises that the bullfight would feature bulls, matadors and horses imported from Mexico. It had been claimed that drinks and entertainment would be included.

Wright said that two barges tied together would be large enough to accommodate 2,000 spectators and an arena large enough for bullfighting.

Wright said in a telephone interview that ASPCA "undercover agents" had been working on the case for two months.

The matador, identified as Miguel (Mike) Troy, 36, "formerly of the Bronx and now Nogales, Mexico." was dressed in a red and gold-trimmed bull fighting suit and was sitting on a horse with a sign proclaiming: "John Hoffman presents First Bull Fight—U.S.A., east of Ambrose Lights."

The ocean-going barges were to be equipped with hot-air blowers and flood lights.

Wright said that while he had considered the possibility of a fraud, with no intent to actually stage the bull fight, he has witnessed enough cockfights and dog fights in New York to believe that the promised bull fights might actually have taken place "I am not surprised and shocked by this. We are not going to allow the tormenting of an animal. I think we have nipped something big in the bud."

CANKER SORES

New Medication Helps Relieve Pain and Soothes Irritation

At last, a fast-acting, long-lasting method to help relieve canker sores. Now, new Cank-aid™ with its healing oxygen formula can help you eat, drink and be free from the miseries of canker sores. Just a few drops from the Cank-aid painless no-touch tip applicator starts its four phase therapy into action.

1. Helps relieve pain.

2. Helps soothe inflammation and irritation.

3. Helps cleanse canker sores.

4. Helps wash away food particles where bacteria and odor breed.

Cank-aid is available without prescription at drug stores everywhere.

Sweets.n.Things

is a
Party
Store

Paper
Party
Dependables

• party goods

• party favors

• party decorations

• candy

1214 Wisconsin Avenue, N.W.
Georgetown, D.C. 20007 Tel. (202) 338-1009

Ruth Rider

LANGLEY PARK—SILVER SPRING—VAN NESS MALL
FREE PARKING AT ALL STORES

JANUARY
CLEARANCE Sale!

ENTIRE STOCK
WINTER FASHIONS

1/3 to 1/2 off
and more

• COATS • DRESSES • FORMALS

• PANT SUITS • SPORTSWEAR

USE LAYAWAY OR CREDIT CARDS

RATTAN

FURNITURE
& ACCESSORIES

SALE

12% to 40% OFF

Tropic Shop

2605 CONN. AVE., N.W.
667-3366

FREE
DELIVERY
TO
BEACHES

"Furnishing

On Mah-
duction
Dressers
Anne C.
for ever.
Select 1
STATTO
CABIN
more.

WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY, TUESDAY, JANUARY 18, 1977 2

You Ring,
We Bring!
Same-day service

DAYTONA
DELIVERS!

BRAIDS, LACES, JUTE,
ELASTICS, RIC-RAC, SCARVES,
RIBBONS, ETC.

DAYTONA
TRIMMING CO.
251 W. 39th St., NYC
(212) 354-1713 4-5-6
Sales Reps Wanted

## Corrections

A statement by Lionel Shargel of Natco's handbag division on page 27, Jan. 14, that he expects 35 to 40 percent of handbag business to be in fabrics and 65 to 79 percent of the fabrics to be in canvas referred to his estimate of industry figures and not of his own company's business.

David Berger is president of Fred Perry Sportswear. Because of an editing error in a story on page one, Jan. 17, the names of the company and its president were transposed.

The crochet-like knit with gold metallic yarn pictured on page 15, Jan. 17, is by Edmund Weisberger of Held Fabrics. Because of a typographical error, the firm was not correctly identified.

## TODAY'S NEWS

<table><tr><td>Arts & People</td><td>17</td><td>Features</td><td>6-7</td></tr><tr><td>Classified Advertisements</td><td>27-31</td><td>Financial</td><td>26</td></tr><tr><td>Dialas</td><td>19-22</td><td>From Where I Sit</td><td>19</td></tr><tr><td>Eye, View</td><td>4, 14</td><td>Furs</td><td>24</td></tr><tr><td>Fabrics</td><td>23</td><td>Home Sewing</td><td>23</td></tr><tr><td>Fashion Rtw</td><td>26</td><td>NOW Sportswear</td><td>18</td></tr></table>

## RETAIL

RECORD-BREAKING or near-record cold temperatures in many cities Monday in the Northeast and Midwest affected retail business with traffic off as much as 50 percent. (1 and 16)

GEORGE P. KELLY has been appointed chairman and chief executive officer of J.W. Robinson, Los Angeles, effective March 1. This confirms a report in WWD Jan. 11. (23)

MANY RETAILERS are missing a big bet by not utilizing all the data they have or could have about customers and failing to turn this into information that could lead to sales, according to Herbert E. Strawbridge, chairman, Higbee Co. (10)

HIGHER-PRICED fur are selling well, and at Neiman-Marcus, Dallas, Russian lynx jackets retailing for $17,500 are a best-seller. Another good seller is a natural beige chinchilla topper at $6,995. People are dressing up and chinchilla is a dressy fur, says a Neiman's executive. (24)

MERCANTILE STORES, Wilmington, Del., had an 11.7 percent increase in volume in December and 11.9 percent in the 11 months to Dec. 31. Sales for the month were $116,051,000, up from $103,929,000. In the 11 months, they were $659,508,000, up from $589,309,000. (26)

PROFIT OF Discount Fabrics, Portland, Ore., dropped 44.3 percent, even though sales rose 10.2 percent for the year ended Sept. 30. Net income was 19 cents a share, down from 35 cents the previous year. Sales totaled $17,300,000, up from $15,700,000. (26)

## GENERAL

AVONDALE MILLS, Sylacauga, Ala., more than doubled its profit in the fiscal first quarter to Dec. 19. Volume was up slightly, 0.7 percent. Profit was 71 cents a share, up from 34 cents. Sales were $66,591,488, compared with $66,111,760. (26)

PROFIT OF Spencer Cos., Boston, dropped 39.9 percent in the second quarter and was down 35.7 percent for the six months ended Nov. 27. Volume was down 9.8 percent for the quarter and 10.7 percent for the six months. Profit was 12 cents per share, down from 20 cents for the quarter, and for the six months, 22 cents compared with 34 cents. Volume for the quarter was $17,597,452, down from $19,516,378, and for the half was $34,197,177, down from $38,288,095. (26)

THE SALE of Beaunit Corp. to a new corporation is expected to be completed Feb. 28 for about $42,500,000, consisting of $2,500,000 in notes and $40 million in assumption of debt. El Paso Co., Beaunit's parent, will take a special after-tax writeoff of $33,700,000, plus $3,015,000 for operating losses of Beaunit through October 1976. This information is contained in papers filed with the SEC. (23)

PRESETATIVES OF nine industry groups from the fiber, textile and apparel fields proposed guidelines for further voluntary or mandatory flammability standards. In the first industry position paper on flammability, the group outlined efforts to come up with reasonable test methods for apparel. (12)

ALLIED CHEMICAL raised prices on several fine-denier nylon apparel yarns including most 40-denier tricot yarns. The increases average 14 percent. The boosts will only partly offset severe price declines in the nylon apparel market during the past six months. (1 and 16)

PRESIDENT FORD submitted a $440-billion budget for fiscal '78, which is heavy on higher defense and welfare expenditures, but light on funds for government regulation and consumer programs. (12)

## LIFE STYLES

OSCAR DE LA RENTA came up with one of his best summer lines, stressing Clean and easy, with soft summer dressing in linen and silk. He shunned taffeta Fantasies. The collection of 60 styles features a variety of themes. (14)

## PEOPLE AND PLACES

THE ROUND of parties for departing Secretary of State Henry Kissinger may be coming to an end in Washington, but they haven't begun yet in New York. Brooke Astor will have a party for him, followed by Kitty Carlisle. At a recent party in the capital, he was given a pair of roller skates. His wife, Nancy, said he's never been interested in making money, but he does enjoy spending it. (1, 6 and 7)

LIV ULLMANN'S autobiography, "Changing," is a moving book written by a sensitive, witty, troubled woman. Her autobiography isn't organized like a conventional autobiography or memoir. It is more of an impulsive chronicle, written during a time when she moved from her native Scandinavia to go to Hollywood, and then to New York. (17)

## Dow Jones average loses 4.91 points

NEW YORK (FNS) — Stock prices slipped again Monday as some selling pressure showed after two major banks raised their prime interest rates from 6 to 6¼ percent.

The Dow Jones Industrial Average was down 4.91 to 967.25. The Dow had been off more than 8 points at mid-afternoon, but rebounded after a Commerce Department report that personal in-

come was up 1.4 percent in December, the biggest gain in a 18 months.

Gaining issues numbered losers by 8 to 7. An average share lost 8 cents on the New York Stock Exchange, but gained 2 cents on the smaller American Exchange. Volume on the Big Board dropped to 21,060,000 from 24,500,000 on Friday.

TEA SHIRTS
PARIS

MADE IN FRANCE

Spring/Summer

NOW SHOWING

NEW YORK
1441 Broadway
Suite 2604
(212) 391-2022

LOS ANGELES
416 So. Robertson Blvd.
(212) 272-7971

DALLAS
Dallas Apparel Mart
Suite 39319
(214) 634-0909

WWD

The retailers' daily newspaper
Published by Fairchild Publications
A division of Capital Cities Media, Inc.
7 E. 12th St., New York, N.Y. 10003
Telephone 212-741-4004

Published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. Copyright 1977, 1978. Publications, Capital Cities Media, Inc. Second Class postage paid at New York, N.Y. and other offices.

All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES

U.S. and possessions, daily for one year: $48; once a week for one year, $18. Other countries daily for one year: $76; once a week for one year, $30. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to offices.

Meet DAVID PIK...
Broadway's newest dress resource
for the updated missy...

with a summer collection
so beautifully detailed
you'll find it hard to believe
it's moderately priced.

Come see and believe at our new showroom!

DAVID PIK INTERNATIONAL

DAVID PIK INTERNATIONAL

1411 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, N.Y. 10018
212/221-6375

california contemporary fashion guild

Weatherbee Coats, Inc. / 512 Seventh Ave. / N.Y., N.Y. 10018

## CALIFORNIA

Shirtdresses

Westcoast/Southeast
Miami: Sheraton Four Ambassadors
Dallas: Apparel Mart Group III
Rm. 39704

Northwest: Carl Elwood
Portland Seattle Markets

Atlanta: Mdse. Mart Rm. 6 H-4

Charlotte: Sheraton Center Hotel

John & Claudia Price

Midwest: Bob Blanchard

Chicago Apparel Center
Room 12-110

New York: Joe Handelsman Asso.
498 7th Ave., 19th Floor

Calif./Ariz.: Lou Kinshberg
Executive Offices:

860 S. Los Angeles St. LA Cal.

Fred Rothschild

misses dresses / jacketdresses

LOS ANGELES: Calif. Mart. Suite 8925
NEW YORK: Ruth Bruce Inc. 498-7th Ave.
and with our representatives on the road

CHECKOUTS
from

Melwine
of Miami
INC.

#2666: 3-pc. border print ensemble with matching jacket, shell and solid pants. Navy or mint. 100% Kodel® polyester. Sizes 8-20. $22.75 #2766: Available in half sizes, 12½-24½.

it's easier with
Kodel®
polyester

Fabric by
Victoria Mills

MELWINE OF MIAMI INC.

NEW YORK: 488 7th Avenue; 212/868-2670

MIAMI: Main office & showroom:
2451 N.W. 5th Avenue, 305/576-3228

KODEL is Eastman's trademark for its polyester fiber.

You're invited to an
art exhibit on the ceiling
of the Biltmore Hotel.

We've put more beauty
in one vaulted ceiling than
most places give you in an
entire hotel. The Biltmore,
Los Angeles, California
90013. Call (213) 624-1011.
Elsewhere in California,
call (800) 252-0175.
Outside California, Hawaii
or Alaska, call (800) 421-0156.

The Biltmore

Lord & Taylor realigns exec. posts

NEW YORK — Lord & Taylor has realigned a number of executive posts.

Susan Carrey, who recently joined the store as vice-president, has been given responsibility for all Chicago region L&T stores. She succeeds Charles Slegmann, who now becomes managing director of the Woodfield store and also will assume similar responsibility for the Fox Valley store when it opens.

William Kelley, who has been regional vice-president for the southern division, has been named vice-president and general merchandise manager for all accessories and children's wear. He is succeeded by James J. Caniglia, who presently is managing director at Woodfield.

Frank Watson, vice-president and general merchandise manager for the home and children's wear, will relinquish children's wear and add men's.

Lewis B. Koppelman has been named to the new position of divisional merchandise manager of better sportswear. He has been divisional merchandise manager of moderate sportswear, a post that will be taken over by Gregory Crews. Crews has been buyer of moderate-price traditional sportswear.

All appointments are effective Feb. 1.

AAMA sets April
technical meeting

WASHINGTON (FNS) —

An extended three-day forum on performance requirements for apparel products will be the focus of the American Apparel Manufacturers Assn.'s third annual technical meeting April 5 to 7.

Sessions on flammability, standards development and marketplace performance will be held in Arlington, Va., at the Stouffer's National Center Inn.

Expected to highlight the meeting will be a standards development session featuring industry, government and consumer representatives in what is hoped to be a free-wheeling discussion on regulatory problems facing the industry.

Magnificent

SILK FABRICS
for
Elegant Designers

Take advantage of one of the Orient's most elegant, exquisite and extensive silk collections.

SAMPLE YARDAGE AT
WHOLESALE PRICES

• Crepe de Chine • Raw Silk

• Satin • Georgette • Pongee

ALWAYS IN STOCK —

all the fashion colors
and patterns you want.

SILK PLAZA

512 Seventh Avenue, N.Y., N.Y.
Tel: (212) 869-9011

THE SPORTING TAILORS

Ready Now!
Our Spring Collection
Quality Dresses
Pants, Skirts & Longs

Piazza Hotel
New York
by appointment
PL9-3000

WVD'S
CLASSIFIED
HOTLINE

Chicago
(312) 726 3170
Emily Rose

ALISON AYRES
AYRES UNLIMITED
THE KNIT GROUP
by E. Eysen

DONALD BROOKS

Seymour Stern
President

Kissinger :

From the left: Iranian Ambassador Ardeshir Zahedi (center) greets Judith and Herb Schlosser, NBC president; Loraine and Sen. Charles Percy; Lady and Sir Peter Ramsbotham, British ambassador; Bunny Buchen

"Henry's never been interested in making money. But he does enjoy spending it," said Nancy Kissinger at Iranian Ambassador Ardeshir Zahedi's recent Kissinger farewell party. Henry proved the point. Opening up Zahedi's gift to him, a pair of roller skates which Zahedi selected to satisfy a $50 State Department spending limit, Kissinger equipped, "Once I get out of this job, we can all forget about the $50 limit."

Meanwhile, those who have it played it cool. Gloria Guinness and Pamela Harriman snuggled up for a little tete-a-tete on a dance-floor sofa. "Henry's so wonderful," said Gloria. "He never makes a mistake."

The West Coast set savored the caviar but skipped the politics. "We flew down here especially tonight because of Ardeshir and for Henry," said Gregory Peck. "I'm not going to make any political comments on Jimmy Carter." Son Carry Peck, a researcher of Sen. Claiborne Pell, tackled the subject. "I don't think Carter will make any difference on the Congress. Congress knows what it wants to do, it's very independent and it's proud of that fact."

NBC chairman Julian Goodman was busy rationalizing his own battles. "We're all doing better than ever," he insisted. "People look at ratings like a football game, where someone has to lose. But it doesn't work that way."

main issue of his administration, he said, "I don't know what this Jimmy Carter family thing is all about. The only thing I can see of his family is that daughter Amy." Graubard was especially impressed by Georgia banker and Carter's budget director Bert Lance, whom he met at Krusty Kay Graham's Kissinger farewell the night before. "He has a vanity license plate," said Graubard. "It spells out LANCE."

As guests finished up the night with strawberries and champagne, Kitty Carlisle contemplated the best way to get through yet another Kissinger party. "It's easy," she beamed. "I just keep looking forward to all the welcome-home Henry parties that are coming up in New York, Brooke Astor's having one for him, and then it's going to be my turn."

Irene Selznick offered her own suggestion. "I just wish we could walk out the door and go directly onto the shuttle and back to New York," she said, contemplating a night at Washington's Embassy Row Hotel.

Meanwhile, Henry was fending off another attack, this time on his dog Tyler. While Zahedi insisted on calling the canine "tailor" all night, Henry took the pup's part. "For years we've been unable to crack the Iranian secret code — with no success," he said. "Finally we realized it was Ardeshir speaking English."

As for Jimmy Carter's administration, Marion Javits put it this way: "The best way to experience an inauguration is to stay home and watch it on television."

—SUSAN WATTERS

Evangeline Bruce, Anne and Kirk Douglas; Phil Buchen, counsel to President Ford

Karen Sulzberger, Car-
ry Paul Peck, Marion
Javits

Marion and Jacob Javits

Anne Douglas and
Gregory Peck