January 8, 1913

Caraveli, Peru.

Feeling that the trip across the mountains from Cuzco to Caraveli was not as successful as was anticipated at the start, I wish to first make a dayby day transcript from my notes and then make a sort of summary at the end of the various difficulties met with on the trip. The notes pertain to the business part of the trip only.

## Saturday Nov. 30, 1912

Worked in the storeroom packing the various articles for the trip and weighing the cargoes. Had all the mules shod. Went to the barritilla in the afternoon and bought 20 sheepskins and riatas for the packsaddles.

## Monday Dec. 2,

Finished packing but have delayed the start one day because the mules have not eaten all their oats, the two packsaddles have not arrived from Santa Ana and Luis has no good saddle.

## Tuesday Dec. 3

Waited all day for the packdaddles but they did not arrive.

## Wednesday Dec. 4

Left Cuzco at 8 A.M. with 24 mules and 2 horses; arrieros are Marcos Arenas, Luis Rodriguez and Henrique Santos; 6 cargoes in all, none of which weighed over 5 arrobas; rested at noon at Puyura; arrived at Zutite at 3.30 (not bought a canchon of alfalfa for five soles. Mules not tired.

## Thursday Dec. 5

Rained heavy in the night and all the mountains /and the cuchillo covered in snow. Reached the cuchillo at 9.45 A.M. and the town of Limatambo at 1.00 P.M., where I bought some maiz for the mules and rested them a hour. Reached The Hacienda Estrella at 5.45 P.M., after having sent Marcos ahead to arrange for the forage; on arrival found that the owner, Senor Montes, refused to give the mules any forage at any price, not even the ref-use of the cane leaves. As next Hacienda was 15 miles away on a dangerous road it was necessary to stop anyway and the mules went without any food/

## Friday Dec. 6

Left Estrella at 6.30 and reached the Apurimac River at 8.30; very hot; tried to obtain sugarcane at the little hacienda on the trail for the mules but the place had not been cutting for two weeks and so I failed. Rested a little and then pressed on toward Curahuasi. At 11.00 A.M. the old white machu began to be tired and could not carry the packsaddle even; later began to bleed from the penus and show signs of dying; sent the others ahead and stayed with it with Marcos; entirely exhausted in deep and hot quebrada just before Curahuasi and as an Indian offered 4 soles for him, I sold for that price. Half an hour later the Indian caught up with us and wanted his money back saying that it was dying; Died later. Reached Curahuasi at 3.00 and gave the mules some maiz, after which we continued to the Hacienda Lucmas where camp was made for the night and the mules had alfalfa. Rain in the night.

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Saturday Dec. 7

Left Lucmas at 7.00 A.M. Reached the cuchillo at 12.60 M. with an elevation of 12850 ft. Rested the mules an hour and then started down into the valley reaching the outskirts of Abancay at 4.00P.M. Bought one large canchon of alfalfa, sufficient for two days.

Sunday Dec. 8

Rested mules all day in alfalfa; rearranged the cargoes; cleaned
rifle; sent Marcos to buy corn for mules; went to town to inquire of trail
to Challhuanca. Advised that there was a good trail with forage at the
haciendas; given letters of introduction to some of the owners; Marcos
failed to buy more than 2 soles of corn and not any to cargo, being very a
scarce.

Monday Dec. 9

Rested the mules another day in camp, therefor getting one day late in the schedule/Bought a little more corn and a canchon of standing oats. Tried to get Caraveli by telegram but failed.Heavy rain in the night.

Tuesday Dec. 10

Left the camp in Abancay at 6.30 A.M. and reached the Hacienda Yaca at 3.30 P.M. where we spent night. The trail is fairly good and level, the only difficulty being the intense heat and little water which made the mules very tired at night. Hacienda Yaca only place where it was possible to stay, the other haciendas not cutting cane and not having any other food for the animals. Owner of the hacienda quite inhospitable and charged 30cents per mule for eating in the cane refuse; no alfalfa or maize.

Wednesday Dec. 11

Left Yaca at 7.00 A.M. and spent the night at the Hacienda Lucmayo. Passed a bad ford in the morning across the River Silcon. For 4 leagues trail is good, then there is another hard ford across the Pachachacca River after which the trail is bad. Trail is rocky, narrow, cliffs, dry and hot with numerous ascents and descents. The mules felt the heat extremely. Reached Hacienda at 3.30 P.M. Hospitable and sold all the maize needed but no alfalfa or oats.

Thursday Dec. 12

Left Lucmayo at 7.00 A.M., carrying corn for the mules/ In one hour the trail reaches a very bad ascent of 1500 feet. Rested the mules an hour at the Hacienda Amara and fed them the corn. Trail all day extremely hard on account of the intense heat and dryness. Passes through deep gorges and along dangerous cliffs. Heat overcame one mule and stayed back with it reaching camp at 6.00: the mule staggered in to the camp like a drunken man. Bought all the forage in the town of Puente which amounted to 3.00; forage very scarce on account of lack of rain in the valley.

Dec. 13

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Left Puente at 8,30 A.M. and found that the trail was much better. Told repeatedly that there was no forage in Challhuanca at any price and that it would be better to go through Senaica where there was foarge. Senaica was a little town about half way to Challhuanca but at one side of the trail; arrived there at 1.00 P.M. Elevation at 113,000 feet and cool, especially after the heat of the valley. Stopped at the house of Genor Carrillo, who sold me all the oats necessary for three days.

Dec. 14

Bought all the oats for sale in the town and telegraphed to Caraveli that I was proceeding slowly on account of the mules, which were in bad shape. Sick in bed all day from old trouble caught in Abancay.

Dec. 15 Sunday

Sick in bed all day. Advised that there is no forage in the town of Challhuanca and that it is advisable to go from Senaica to Coracora direct, that being the shortest way. Mules better in the cooler climate.

Dec. 16 Monday

Sick during the day. Can buy no more forage and so necessary to go on. Marcos advises cargoing in the night with the moon and an Indian guide. Leave Senaica at 4.30 P.M. for an all night cargo in the pampa. Reached the pampa at 6.00 P. M. with an elevation of 13000ft which held all the night. Trail fairly good, passing through a volcanic region where there was no pasture. Made camp at 1.30 A.M. in an uninhabited quebrada. Very cold and no wood for a fire.

Dec. 17 Tuesday

Slept in the morning and the mules ate pasture in the warmth of the sun. Broke camp at 3.00 P.M. for a second night cargo; in short while a wind and rain storm set in which increased in violence as we pursued our way toward a cuchillo ahead. Started to snow and the wind separated the mules and nearly blew them over; intense cold guide said that it would be dangerous to try to pass the cuchillo in such a wind and snow could be seen on it, so that I considered it best to stop. Too windy to pitch tent and so slept in a cave. In dark the mules separated.

Dec. 18 Wednesday.

Mules all found by noon but the snow and the rainstorm continued and necessary to stay another day waiting for the cuchillo to clear.

Dec. 19 Thursday

Broke camp at 7.00 A.M. Mountains covered with snow; trail wet and muddy. Steady ascent to 14400 feet which held all day. Worst trailing of the whole experience, because although the trail itself is good, it is high altitude, no pasture, no houses, rain and snow and boggy, treacherous ground. Left Enrique with six mules in the pampa which were too weak to make altitudes with the same speed as the others. Considered it best to get the strong mules through at once. At 2.00 P.M. snowstorm started and continued all day. Pitched camp at altitude of 14050 ft on the pampa and

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in the snow. No houses for 20 leagues. Snow covered all the pasture of the mules and it was so cold that they would not eat anyway. Tried to force way into the tents. One mule giving out.

Friday Dec. 20

Trail all the morning over pampa at height of 14000 feet. Reached small quebrada where pacha grass grew and stopped for two hours for the mules to rest. Rain and snow started as usual at noon. At 6.00 P.M. while debating as to whether the mules could ford a swollen freshet and cargo in the night to Coracora, one of the mules fell from weakness and that settled the question; we camped there and I wrapped the mule in blankets for the cold night.

## Saturday Dec. 20

Weak mule frozen to death in the morning; others had eaten nothing on account of the cold and so let them eat until 10.00 A.M. Crossed freshet successfully. Henrique caught up to us with two mule s. Reported that the old horse and three mules had died of cold and exhaustion; that he had slept on the pampa in the snow with only poncho to protect him. (Between this point and the thirtieth of Dec. I kept no daily notes, being too busy with the mules and sick after I reached Coracora.) In an hour reached ascent of 1000 feet with very hard trail and soon saw that some of the mules would never make the ascent without food back of them. Using my own judgement and with the advice of the arrieroes I selected the most sheltered quebrada that I could find which also had pacha grass, discargoed all the mules including the pack saddles, left Luis and Henrique in charge of the five weakest mules, took Marcos and the guide, and started to cargo to Coracora with all the mules that were able to go. We took nothing, not even blankets for sleeping. Left the others at 1.00 P.M. and, with short rests pressed on until 1.00 A.M. in the morning when we found ourselves on the outskirts of Coracora. Then let the mules pasture until daybreak and slept in the rain on the pampa with no blankets; cold.

## Sunday Dec. 22

Reached Coracora at 7.30 A.M. and bought a canchon of alfalfa/ Left mules feeding and entered the town; sent telegram to Mr. Carpenter; met sub-prefect and promised 12 mules to cargo food back to the mountains and bring in the cargoes; bought 18 arrobas of oats; mules to be ready in the morning.

## Monday Dec. 23

Morning came but no mules; told that it is hard to get them; started to hunt for some myself and finally arranged with Senior Lopez for six and two horses for 30 soles; nothing to do but wait for the mules to come in from the pasture. Sick part of the day with old trouble.

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Tuesday Dec. 24

Mules came in the morning. Returned to the canchon of alfalfa to care for our mules and sent Marcos back to the mountains with the hired ones and the xix oats. Slept in an old Indian hut.

Wednesday Dec. 25

Watched mules all day. Had raw eggs and bread for Christmas dinner.

At 4:30 P.M. Henrique arrived with the hired mules and the cargoes; reported that one more mule had frozen to death and that it had snowed and rained incessantly all the time it had been away.

Thursday Dec. 26

At 7.00 A.M. Marcos and Luis arrived, having travelled slowly all night in order to get the weak mules down from the altitudes. Marcos reported that one more mule had died in the trail during the night; (the branding marks of these mules I have shown to Mr. Carpenter and the ears.) Bought another canchon of alfalfa for three days.

Friday Dec. 27

Moved to the new canchon of alfalfa. Sick.

Dec. 28, 29

Resting mules.

Monday Dec. 30

Left Coracora at 6.00 A.M. with all the mules. Passed Chumpi at 8.30 A.M. Good trail and arrived at Ingahuasi at 3.30 P.M/ where camped for the night. Mules in good condition.

Tuesday Dec. 31

Moon in the last quarter and bright so that we broke camp at 2.00 A.M. to take advantage of the cool morning. Passed Lake Parinacochas all the morning and rested for two hours in Saylla-saylla where we was able to get alfalfa. Easy trail and reached Cahuaco at 5.00 P.M. Mules good and had alfalfa.

Wednesday Jan. 1, 1913

Left Cahuaco at 7.00 A.M. and cargoed over a volcanic pampa all day, reaching Caraveli quebrada at 1.00 P.M. Sharp and hard descent of 2000 feet. Reached the town of Caraveli at 3.30 P.M. and reported to Mr. Carpenter. Delivered 17 mules and one horse and all the cargoes. 7 mules and one horse had died on the route.

Above taken from daily notes

Signed,

1.

January 12, 1913.

Caraveli, Peru.

In another paper I have given a transcript of my notes showing
the manner in which I tried to bring the mules and their cargoes from
Cuzco in good condition, without making any comments on those notes.
Here I wish further, to summarize those notes, commenting on the diffi-
culties met with and the character of the trail from Cuzco to Caraveli.

On Friday Nov. 29, 1912 Professor Hiram Bingham left me in
Cuzco to in charge of 24 mules and two horses which I was to take to
Caraveli over the Cordillera, together with six small cargoes of various
merchandise. These things were to be delivered to Mr. E. N. Carpenter for
the E. I. DuPont de Nemours Powder Company. Between Nov. 29, and Dec. 4
I spent the time in preparing for the journey, caring for the mules, fix-
ing their packsaddles and arranging the cargoes. My orders had been
to leave Cuzco on the 3rd of Dec., but owing to the fact that two pack-
saddles were still lacking which had been telegraphed for from Santa Ana,
and that the mules had not finished the lot of barley, I delayed the
start one day, leaving on the fourth.

Two primary reasons and one subordinate one account in general
for the partial failure of the mules to arrive. First, the time fix of
the year in respect to forage; second, the time of the year in respect
to weather conditions; and the subordinate reason the condition of the
mules. Taking up the first of these questions, it can be fairly said that
the mules had sufficient forage in only two places during the trip,
once in Abancay and again in Coracora. Furthermore, these two places
were at the two ends of the most severe part of the trip. On arriving
in Abancay all the mules except one which had been overcome by the heat
in the Apurimac Valley were in fairly good condition and the arrieroes
and myself both thought that they would all go through. Here, too, we
told that forage was easy to obtain in the Pachachacca River Valley.
In spite of these two things I rested the mules two and a half days in
Abancay, instead of the one day as per the original schedule. They had
corn, alfalfa and standing oats. From Abancay, however, to Coracora we
were forced to take two weeks time and during that period the mules
went on short rations and that too in a terrible region to trail.
For four days, or during the Pachachacca River Valley, the trail ran six
along in cliff fashion, rocky and dangerous most of the way, terribly
hot and dry. Cactus plants lined the way and water for the mules to ix
drink was very scarce on the road. The only places to stop at for the
night were haciendas and in these places the majority had no alfalfa to
sell and not sufficient caneleaves for the number of mules that I had
with me. No price could obtain forage in what I considered sufficient
quantities offers of double the regular price and as high as fifty
cents a mule per night for permission to eat in the refuse of the
sugarcane leaves were refused. The reason for this was the time of the
year. In this section the rains had not yet started and water was
scarce for the few crops that were cultivated. After having left Abane
cy for three days and repeatedly informed as I approached Challhuanca
by persons who had recently been there that no forage was obtainable
in the town, I directed the march to a town called Sanaica, situated

On the mountain-side about five leagues from Challhuanca and on the trail to Coracora also. Here 1 was very hospitably received by Senior Carrillo, who obtained for me all the forage that could be bought in town and who also hired me mules to go to Challhuanca and inquire as to forage there. The latter town had none at all. In Senaica the forage was solely of oats and sufficient for three days which was the time that we remained there. To go sooner and cargo part of the oats was not advisable because one mule and horse had literally staggered into camp for two nights overcome by the heat in the valley and by weakness. It was necessary to rest these before starting on another four days trip to Coracora. Yet even here I expected that the mules would reach their destination all right, for the hot part of the trip had been left behind and inquiries resulted in the news that the trail from here led over pampa and was very good, with pasture but no houses. In the coolness of the higher altitude the mules would walk better. In general the trail was good and it was cool but to such an extent that it snowed every day and covered what little pasture was with snow so that the mules had practically nothing for four days. In Coracora a stop of an entire week was made, with the mules eating alfalfa and oats all the time and recovering from the past few days in the cold. From Coracora to Caraveli was only a three days cargo and although forage was scant yet each night the mules had something to eat, both from what 1 cargoes from Coracora and a little alfalfa on the road. In addition the trail was very good and the days cool so that the mules did not suffer as before.

The second question in respect to the time of the year as related to the weather, is reflected of course in the forage question. But it had another aspect also. I believe that it is always hot in the rivers valleys but it is not always rainy and cold on the pampa. It was our fortune to cross the pampa after the rains had fairly started and we found it almost an impossibility to make consecutive headway on successive days. As we had planned the trail from maps in Cuzco we had expected to meet with steep and difficult ascent of the Huazo Cordillera to a height of some 17000 feet and then a descent on the other side. This would have been much preferable to what we did encounter. The Huazo Cordillera lies between Challhuanca and Coracora, or, in the route that I took, between Senaica and Coracora. With the moon full and knowing that we knew about to enter pampa region Marcos, the chief arriero advised the hiring of a guide and packing in the night. This had the double advantage of permitting weak mules to pack in the cool hours and eat in the warm ones. I consented and the first night went successfully with no trouble, all the mules going well. The trail had gone straight up to 13000 feet and held that height all night. The second day the trail continued to ascend and after we had cargoes about one hour, or from 3.30 to 4.30 P.M. a heavy wind and rain storm started, increasing to such violence that the mules refused to face it, were several times nearly blown over by the gusts and soon began to separate and seek shelter behind rocks. The trail higher could be seen to be covered with snow and the guide advised that it would be foolish to ascend further until the wind had subsided. This proved to be true when we finally went on, for the trail led across boggy places and rocks both. The wind was too violent to pitch tents so that we camped in a cave and placed the mules in a poor corral. During the night they broke

t

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through this and started to scatter. Most of them went in a straight line for the warmer valleys below, without following any trail. It was late the next day before all were recovered and meanwhile the storm had continued. It stopped the next morning and we succeeded in getting an early start for the night packing was clearly not feasible at this period of the year. At ten we had reached 14000 feet altitude and one mule had fallen exhausted, while others were evidently going to delay the whole krian train. I left six with one of the arrieroes with orders to follow slowly, and pushed on slowly myself. It was not fast because the rain started again at noon, changed to snow at four and forced us to stop. To continue in the snow was impossible both because the mules feet became huge balls of frozen ice and because of the danger of losing the trail. That night we camped in the snow, after tying the most important mules together to prevent there escaping again. Here the mules really suffered. What little pasture there was lay hidden beneath a coating of sleet-snow and it was so cold that they had no desire to attempt to eat standing in a huddled group to keep warm. Several tried to force their way into the sleeping tents. Again we started in the morning and at noon reached a sheltered quebrada where pacha grass grew and the sun was shining. We discarded and let the mules grazefor a while. Later we were stopped by a swollen freshet, and camped for the night on its banks. In the morning one mule was dead and news came by the arriero whom I had left behind that four of the animals left with him had froze to death. He had pushed straight across the pampa by a different route than we had taken. By 1.00 P.M. we had succeeded in going only a very short distance and were confronted by a difficult ascent. Feeling that Coracora could not be more than twelve leagues away, I left all the weak mules, all cargoes and packsaddles with two arrieroes and started for Coracora. We reached it after an all night pack and obtained a field of alfalfa. Then with hired mules and forage the cargoes were brought in and all the mules except two that had frozen in the meantime. This is all clear in the notes and needs no comment. The point to emphasize is this:-for an ordinary four day pack and one which took us six, the trail had passed over an immense desert pampa, where only the vicuna lives. In that time we had seen only three or four shepherd huts and two or three Indians tending flocks in the valleysof a few quebradas. Each day the rain started, then turned to snow, covering both pasture and trail. Not once does this trail go below 12000 feet for more than an hour or two and for leagues holds above 14000 feet. Thus the heat of the river valley and the cold of the pampa both proved injurious to the mules. In the valley one died; in the pampa seven. As mentioned in the notes Marcos preserved the branding marks and the ears of the mules that died until reacing Caraveli.

The third reason which I place subordinateto these is the condition of the mules on leaving Cuzco. The mules were in fair condition and I believe that all could have reached Caraveli easily if the forage had been plentiful and the rainy season had not started. But the combination of the two factors proved too much for mules that had worked as steadily as these. Even mules in the prime of condition would have found it hard to pull through. Their exhaustion

EXPLORER.

"... a voice as bad as Conscience, rang interminable changes
On one everlasting Whisper day and night repeated--so:
'Something hidden! Go and find it. Go and look behind the
Ranges--
Something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you.
Go.' "..

by Rudyard Kipling.

Professor Hiram Bingham, Director of the Latin American
Department of Yale University, inspired Osgood Hardy and me with
Kipling's quotation which he used in his book "Inca Land". In
1911 he was still in his middle thirties when he returned from his
third expedition to South America with the astonishing and exciting
news that magnificent Inca ruins had remained hidden from the Span-
ish Conquistadores and the Peruvian nation for some four hundred
years at Macchu Picchu in the canyon of the Urubamba River, Peru.
Deep in the heart of this incredible gorge he had camped for a
night at Manda Pampa, a lonely native inn beside the river, com-
prised of a single grass-thatched hut, operated by Melchor Arteaga,
proprietor. During the campfire talk that night Arteaga revealed
his knowledge of an ancient city hidden in the jungle that covered
the lofty precipice across the river. The next morning he guided
Professor Bingham to it for the modest fee of fifty cents.

The scientific impact of this faraway event has resulted in
the publication of many articles and books upon its relation to
Incaian history with the result that Macchu Picchu today is known
throughout the world as a National Park of the Peruvian nation.

The lives of Osgood and myself were also substantially changed.
He accompanied Professor upon three separate expeditions to this
area and subsequently achieved a splendid career as Chairman of the
History Department of Occidental College in California. Osgood
and I were tent-mates during the 1912 Expedition.

Brought up under the quite rigid customs of rural Connecticut
at the end of the nineteenth century, the accepted background of
my early life and its teachings should have surely

8.

contained me within the New England environment. No dreams of mine
nor urgings of family or friends dwelt upon foreign involvement.
I have never deciphered what stroke of Fortune or changing Star
cast these strange events into my life. Certain it is that they
have ever remained in memory as a panorama of years filled with
enjoyable and stimulating experiences.

To be a member of such a scientific expedition appealed to me
as being a wonderful opportunity. In the 1910-1914 period the
Victorian Era was still in the near background. Our great indus-
trial expansion had not reached its stride and world wars were un-
known. A few automobiles were in use but aeroplanes, radios, tele-
vision, concrete roads and atom bombs were non-existent. The far
places of the world-and Peru was in that category- were known to
few people. The land of the Incas opened before me.

After recieving my Baccalaureate Degree which contained two
full years of Spanish language study I decided to enter the Yale
Graduate School and obtain a Master of Arts degree in Latin Amer-
ican Import and Export Economics. This decision placed me under the
direct supervision of Professor Bingham in the early fall of 1911,
just after he had returned from Peru with the official reports and
photographs of Macch Picchu. I attended his first formal lecture
upon them in Lampson Lyceum. We decided that the thesis for my
degree should be centered upon the structure and influence of the
Peruvian Corporation, a company which dominated the railroad systems
of Peru under British guidance.

Evaluation of the findings of his 1911 expedition resulted in
the immediate formation of the "Yale-National Geographic Peruvian
Macchu Picchu Expedition of 1912" under his direction with a dura-
tion from June 1-December 31, 1912. He offered me the opportunity
of becoming a member of it in April.

As officially listed in the National Geographic Magazine,
April, 1913 the members were;

Professor Herbert E. Gregory, Geologist

Dr. Herbert E. Eaton, Osteologist

Mr. Allen Bumstead, Chief Topographer

Mr. Elwood E. Erdis, Archeological Engineer

Mr. Luther T. Nelson, Surgeon

Mr. Kenneth C. Heald, Assistant Topographer

Mr. Robert Stephenson, Assistant Topographer

Mr. Paul Bestor, Assistant

Mr. Osgood Hardy, Assistant

Mr. Joseph Little, Assistant

The three assistants, Messrs. Bestor, Hardy and Little, were
required to do all the miscellaneous work such as checking and

9.

caring for the equipment, assisting in map-making, buying local provisions and providing provender for the mules. Bestor had the misfortune to come down with amoebic dysentery while packing in the Apurimac River valley early in July and was sent to the United States Military Hospital at Ancon, Panama. He was unable to rejoin the expedition.

In addition to the above duties Osgood and I became topographical assistants assigned to Mr. Bumstead. He was an artist of the highest order in his field and created many varied and beautiful maps of the areas we traversed. The final and permanent maps of the Peary North Pole Expedition were made by him from the official notes accumulated by its members on that discovery.

By contract the sponsors of this expedition retained all tangible and intangible rights to the notes, photographs and artifacts taken by the members during its life; neither could we lecture or write articles about it. The events described in the following pages, therefore, are only intended to portray a few personal experiences while upon and subsequent to it during my continued stay in South America.

Official reports upon the "Yale-National Geographic Peruvian Macchu-Picchu Expedition of 1912", amplified by several books and articles closely related to it, are as follows;-

"In the Wonderland of Peru"; National Geographic Magazine, April 1913, Volume 24, Number 4.

"Further Explorations in the Land of the Incas"; National Geographic Magazine, May 1916, Volume 29, Number 5.

"Macchu Picchu-A Citadel of the Incas" by Hiram Bingham; published for the National Geographic Magazine; New Haven, Yale University Press; London, Humphrey Milford, Oxford University Press, 1930.

"Inca Land- Explorations in the Highlands of Peru" by Hiram Bingham; published by Houghton Mifflin, New York Company; Cambridge, the Riverside Press, 1922.

"Lost City of the Incas" by Hiram Bingham; published by Duell, Sloane and Pearce, New York, 1948.

"The Monroe Doctrine- An Obsolete Shibboleth" by Hiram Bingham; published by Yale University Press, New Haven, Connecticut; Humphrey Milford, Oxford University Press, 1913.

"The Journal of an Expedition Across Venezuela and Columbia, 1906-07" by Hiram Bingham; published by Yale Publishing Association, New Haven, Connecticut; London, T. Fisher Unwin, 1909.

10.

"The Collection of Osteological Material from Macchu Picchu" by George Eaton; published May 1916, in Memoirs of the Connecticut Academy of Arts and Sciences.

"The Indians of Cuzco and the Apurimac Valley" by H.B. Ferris, M.D., Professor of Anatomy, Yale University, from anthropometric data collected by L.T. Nelson, Surgeon of the Peruvian Expedition of 1912.

Various other articles were published under the auspices of the expedition, relating to the study of insects, butterflies, minerals, geology and metallurgy.

Professor Bingham's influence enabled me to join the E.I. duPont de Nemours Nitrate Expedition in southern Peru which was headed by Mr. E.N. Carpenter. Its liquedation six months later led to a connection through Mr. Carpenter with the Cerro de Pasco Mining Company in its subsidiary division at Morocoche, Peru. After a year learning the rudiments of non-ferrous mining under the direction of Mr. Harold Kingsmill, General Manager, I returned to the United States in May 1914, arriving at New York on Memorial Day.

Joseph P. Little.

II.

12.

NEW YORK TO CUZCO.

Preparation for our actual field work demanded many hours of practice in photography, studying the elements of astronomy and the making of topographic field maps. Osgood and I spent one pleasant weekend in New York purchasing our personal equipment at the outfitting house of Abercrombie and Fitch.

We sailed from New York June 6th on a United Fruit Company banana boat, the S.S. Carillo. This all-white ship had splendid appointments but was quite bouncy because it was wide of beam and was going south empty. Off Cape Hatteras we ran into a violent storm in the midst of which our Captain hove the Carillo windward to assist a Ward Line steamship rescue the crew of a three-masted schooner. All their lifeboats but one had been disabled in the heavy seas and they hesitated to risk their last reserve except in a final emergency. Our first lifeboat swung out from its davits and promptly crashed into the side of our ship but the second and third boats succeeded in rescuing a motley crew from their sinking vessel. They turned out to be Jamaican negroes captained by a Maine skipper. The schooner had been overloaded with lumber and the stack on deck had torn loose from its moorings, shearing off the mainmast very neatly. During their two days and night exposure they had subsisted scantily upon occasional cans of beans and corned beef that floated up from the galley.

We stopped a full day at Kingston, Jamaica, and this enabled Hardy and myself, together with co-passengers Marjorie Pone and Clochette Magruder to try out the beach at the old hotel before taking an inland drive to the beautiful botanical gardens which were the pride of the city. It was the middle of June. Osgood and I were both hatless. A horseman trotted by, stopped and after the usual amenities said, "You know down here we never tempt Fate by going without a head covering in the middle of the day. The sun is just too hot. While you are near the Equator why don't you follow suit?" He smiled and road away and that afternoon we purchased hats.

The Panama Canal was a decided novelty to all Americans in 1912. Ships were passing through it even though certain last phases of construction were still in progress. It was at Colon and Ancon that I had my introduction to Latin America, followed by a most interesting trip through the entire canal, the outstand feature of which were the huge locks. We all agreed, however, that Balboa Town at its western entrance held the most interest with its international wharves and docks. We had passed through the fever ridden Panamanian jungle which wrecked the health of the brilliant French engineer De Lesseps only to yield to the American General Gorgas and now we had the thrill of standing on the spot where Balboa had struggled forth to be the first European to view the mighty and restless Pacific Ocean. We soon severed our last small tie with New England when we boarded the coastal cattle boat "Quilque" in Balboa's picturesque harbor where it was flying the Peruvian flag.

13.

As we steamed down the coast we stopped at most of the local ports except Guayaquil which was quarantined during one of its recurrent epidemics of yellow fever. Our most interesting stop was at Payta, an open roadstead seaport on the northwestern coast, which serves as an outlet for the more habitable inland city of Piurs. International oil explorations were starting in this desert area which turned out over the years to be among the most important in the world. Here, too, the Peruvian government was fostering a colonization experiment by hundreds of immigrant foreigners and aiding them in the development of tea, cotton, coffee and sugar plantations. Specific nations that were cooperating in these projects were Japan, Brazil and Germany.

We went ashore at Payta and were immediately besieged by Indian and mestizo merchants offering their local wares. You were badly swindled on values unless you haggled at length over prices. Straw hats handwoven under water by the Indian women were outstanding in quality. We all purchased one. I kept mine for over two years and sold it at a profit when I left Peru. The very finest of these hats are frequently prized as heirlooms and bequeathed at death.

A pseudo-black market existed on old relics and many of these depicted an ancient coastal culture which was far more sensual and uninhibited as to phallic worship than that of the upland Quechua tribes. Their sale was prohibited by law.

Our cattle boat was a pleasure and offered to us a mixed variety of new experiences. We were privileged to sit at the Captain's table in front of an open window which looked down on several score of scrawny, dirty steers whose stables were cleaned infrequently. Invariably the wind blew our way. Osgood and I shared a cabin and when lying in our bunks thoroughly enjoyed watching the antics of two large, tame cockroaches that scurried about the ceiling crevices. We named them Jim and Janice. What they named us we never found out.

We watched their crude methods of loading and unload-
ing cattle many times. Lighters carried the cattle out to the steamer
at the proper time. Deckhands threw a noose, dangling from a winch,
over the horns of the animal and thus it was lifted and dropped into
the hold of the boat. Many times the horns were forcibly torn out.
It was cheap and cruel.

The distance from Piura to Callao is about seven hundred and fifty miles and most of the time the steamer seems but twenty miles from shore. We passed close to the famous guano islands of Peru upon which for centuries millions of birds have deposited the renowned fertilizer which was known equally well to the Inca husbandman.

We lounged in the steamer chairs and watched the unfold-
ing terrain of Peru pass by. The great South American Coastal Desert
is roughly eighty to one hundred miles wide and fifteen hundred long.
It rises rather quickly from the shoreland to an elevation

14.

of four to six thousand feet. The complete absence of water leaves
its entire surface extremely arid. Ordinary vegetation is never
visible and even cactus is rarely seen.

Rising twice from the depths of the Pacific Ocean eons past
it contains a variety of volcanic characteristics and unlimited
manifestations of ancient marine life. This tremendous area dis-
plays the utter barrenness of the Arabian Desert plus the glorious
color pageantry of Arizona. These diverse elements form a fluid
base of changing lights and shadows against which is opposed the ma-
jestic beauty of the lofty Andean Cordillera whose splendour lies
but a few leagues away. In early morning its glacial peaks recieve
the frosty, slanting rays of the eastern sun and with each revealing
hour the bleak and barren uplands of Inca Land stand clear. Long aft-
er the great orb had dissappeared below the western water's edge its
golden shafts accentuated the challenge of the Andes. Such was the
fascinating introduction to the scene of our coming explorations.

I saw Callao many times. It is both a naval station and a fine
harbor for the commerce of Lima which is located ten miles away.
The reputation of being one of the "sink-holes of the world" added
greatly to its allure for us. Wanted men found refuge in its slums
until they could book passage on a Chinese junk to an oriental hide-
out and oblivion.

Our final port of debarkation was Mollendo three hundred miles
south of Callao. Here in the open roadstead we were treated somewhat
like the cattle at Payta except that we sat in a sling and were der-
ricked down into the lighter with our luggage. This city had little
to offer beside the fact that it was the ocean terminal for the South-
ern Railroad of Peru. The latter climbs easterly over the desert and
mountains to Juliaca where it divides, with the right hand line drift-
ing over to Puno, Bolivia and the left going northwesterly to Cuzco.

Our train crawled up from the ocean shore, ascending sharply
for three thousand feet to the lower desert floor where all day long
it slowly ascended to Arequipa where we stopped for the night. This
old city proved to be very attractive. It has a prosperous atmosphere
and its environs are well irrigated. The Spanish homes are arranged
around lovely outdoor patios which are surrounded with solid contin-
uous walls of adobe. We visited Harvard's meteorological observatory,
staffed over the years with scientists equipped to take astronomical
data of the southern hemisphere. The beautiful and conical Mount
Misti rises from the desert close to the city, while far away to the
northwest Mout Corapuna dominates the scene. It was first ascended
by Professor Bingham on a previous expedition.

We had been warned about the open prostitution, with its high
incidence of syphilis, which was officially permitted in these West
Coast cities. Hardy and I observed it quickly on our first evning
walk. Women were not in evidence on the streets but within thirty

15.

feet of a uniformed policeman, a young urchin accosted us. He was about ten years old and handed us the calling card of Senorita Dolores, simultaneously urging us to visit at her nearby apartment. Osgood and I immediately decided to make our first scientific research by visiting her and discussing this most interesting problem. With our broken Spanish we got nowhere.

Our first experience with high altitudes came on the train ride between Arequipa and Juliaca. After fifty miles of winding across the bleak desert we climbed and twisted and tunnelled through the mountains until we reached the highest pass of twelve thousand feet below which lay Juliaca where we spent the night. All of us had siroche-some very badly. It is a terrible malaise and worse than sea-sickness. A throbbing iron band tightens around the head and nausea follows. Violent wrenchings occur and nothing stays in the stomach. We deserved it all for being too active on the journey and eating too many strange foods. The train had moved so slowly up the mountains that Osgood and I had often left it to walk along the tracks, determined to take exercise in the true American fashion. A group of British engineers who were playing cards en route cautioned us in a friendly way to sit still and let the body adjust itself to the rapid increase in elevation. This would have partially defeated any siroche attack. We showed our inexperience by ignoring this expert advice and suffered very badly before the siroche wore off.

The train equipment was very old-fashioned. Food was not served on it nor did it run at night. The seats were of a woven rattan material and one slid all day long over their slippery surfaces to the ultimate damage of one's composure and the seat of his breeches.

The next day's run was increasingly exciting as we approached the heart of the cordillera. We entered the Vilcanote River basin following its water course until the railroad branched off to its tributary the Huatenay River. Here lay the cradle of the ancient Inca civilization and the location of part of our work. The valley closed in, the railroad came to an end, and there lay Cuzco with a myriad of Indian huts, Spanish colonial architecture and the ruins of Inca palaces. About one hundred and ten thousand people lived here despite an elevation of eleven thousand feet.

The Hotel Nacional was our headquarters and the House of Lomellini y Cia took charge of outfitting all exploration parties into the interior. Specific duties were assigned to each member of the expedition as he arrived in Cuzco. I had the following three projects until the end of November: first, Osgood and I were assigned to assist Mr. Bumstead in making a "Topographic Map of the Cuzco Basin" covering the area from Cuzco to Mount Piquillacta. Upon this completed map another was super-imposed by Professor Herbert E. Gregory and Robert Stevenson entitled "A Reconnaissance Geologic Map". Both Maps were published in the

16.

American Journal of Science, Volume XIII, Plates I-II, with a
printed credit to Osgood Hardy and Joseph Little. Second, I
was requested to make a scale map of the entire city of Cuzco
showing every alley and street. This was accomplished by a
plane table survey with the aid of arriero Marcos Arenas.

Third, Mr. Bumstead was assigned to make a complete topographic
field map of the territory between Abancay, Pasaje, Arma, Puquiura,
Lucma and Santa Ana and to return from the latter point to Cuzco
by way of the Urubamba River and Macchu Picchu. His assistants
were Joseph Little and Osgood Hardy, accompanied by Dr. Luther
Nelson and escorted by Lieutenant Sarmiento of the Peruvian Army.

Authentic maps had never been made of this formidable mountain
region which had provided a final defense for the Incas during the
first decades of Spanish invasion.

III.

ARCHEOLOGICAL BYPLAY.

18.

What then did we see and do that was not a part of the official reports? Every aspect of this foreign country was so different from Puritan New England that it was most interesting to us. A few of the more outstanding impressions may be worth recording.

All students of Peruvian history know the details of the dramatic encounter of Inca Atahualpa and the Spaniard Pizarro which culminated in the latter's treachery to the Quechua Indian ruler during a friendly peace meeting. Osgood and I went immediately to see Atahualpa's statue in the main plaza. Like a thousand other statues in the New World it attested to the glory of another Indian nation defeated by the power of weapons new to them—the horse and gunpowder. More than that, however, it symbolized the destruction in these mountains of the fabulous Inca civilization. It depressed us to think that this ancient race had to be subjected to the arrogance of the Spanish conqueror, augmented by the intolerant bigotry of the Church. On one side of the plaza stood the remarkable Spanish cathedral, built upon the ruins of the old Inca palace whose foundations were so strong that the Spaniards were unable to demolish them. Only a block away we found the Iglesia de la Merced much more interesting for it contained the finest hand-carved choir stalls in the city, or even in Peru. We visited here many times.

We rode our mules up to the high fortress of Sacsahuaman which commanded the Cuzco Valley and constituted the city's main defense in Inca days. Archeologists and historians debate the period of its construction to no certain conclusion. We wandered for hours through the large storerooms and defense chambers. The formidable layout of entrants and re-entrants, designed for maximum defense, gives Sacsahuaman its great claim to historical fame and grants to its architects a high place in military concepts.

Both of us liked to experiment with good food, particularly if it was hotly spiced. We decided that the hotel did not serve true native Indian dishes and so I prevailed upon my arriero to find us a typical Quechua noonday meal. A few days later he introduced us to his friends in their one room adobe home on the outskirts of the city. We all set down on the dirt floor around the single large pot that contained the entire meal which Americans would call a vegetable stew. A very small piece of meat was smothered by many vegetables such as maize, barley and potatoes but above all native redhot peppers. I intended to show the host's wife a due appreciation of her cooking and took a liberal helping lightheartedly. My tongue burned, my cheeks flushed and moisture streamed from my forehead. The family laughed heartily at my predicament with the peppers. The Indians relish them very much and seem immune to their strong flavor.

19.

I had read in an old Spanish book of a rather strange Quechua beverage and while surveying a high pampa above the Vilcanote River I enjoyed the opportunity of trying it. Actually it is a variety of "chicha" which closely resembles beer and it had been a favorite drink among the Incas for centuries before the Spanish era. There are three kinds of chicha. In the lowlands it was called "de azucar" made from the refuse of the sugar cane; in the higher lands "del maiz", a fermentation of corn; and "de las viejas", a blend concocted by the old women of the tribe. The arrieros were frequently talking of this third type and so again on this high pampa I found myself in an Indian hut with my arriero drinking the "chicha de las viejas" (chicha of old women). It was very good and carried a fine punch at that high altitude of fourteen thousand feet. Their method of fermentation interested me. Old village crones assembled when the morning sun was hot and sat in a circle about a large earthen jar. They slowly chewed the kernels of corn to a pulp with their toothless gums and when they had collectively spat enough of the pulpy mass into the jar, it was exposed to the noonday sun for fermentation. Excellent as it tasted I doubt that it would pass a good bacteriological test.

A member of the Lomellini family who had been educated in Europe befriended us in many ways. He escorted us through a Franciscan monastery to which he had especial access. It occupied an area comparable to several city blocks entirely surrounded by high adobe walls. The inside patio was laid out in pleasant formal walks where the monks strolled, meditating or reading their breviaries. The individual sleeping quarters were clean, simply furnished. In the assembly rooms we saw many splendid specimens of wood carving which showed the skill of artisans transported from Spain in colonial times and attesting to this art of the Middle Ages. The choir stalls contained seat after seat of exquisite imagery.

Scores of lovely canvasses appeared throughout the monastery. Many portrayed scenes from the lives of the Saints and all were of a religious nature. We particularly noticed "The Agony of Christ" in a dark, unlighted room. They seemed priceless to us, tucked away here and unknown to the public.

The crowning treasures to me were the tomes of Latin chants located in a fine library which seemed largely composed of old books. Many had been aged in centuries past; many were in the vellum covers of the Renaissance with gorgeous coloured hand lettering. Our Brother Guide placed one of these upon an inlaid lectern and permitted us to leaf through it. We commented upon the size of the lettering and sheets. He explained that when these books were lettered that scribes and artists of the highest skills were very scarce and therefore it was customary to make the texts of sufficient size so that all the members of an order could read them together from the lectern in communal chants.

The personnel and warehouses of the export House of Lomellini y Cia became very familiar to us for it was in their patios that our various parties outfitted. It supplied all arrieros and local equipment. One day we were shown several large rooms filled with museum pieces of antique Spanish and Peruvian furniture. Where did they all come from, we asked? Well, it appeared that some years ago a wealthy art connoisseur had collected these rare pieces with the idea that he could make a fortune by exporting them to Europe or the United States. The Peruvian government forestalled this by passing a law forbidding the export of cultural antiques. His treasures were still there when we departed nor did Lomellini's know what their disposition would finally be,

The Catholic church was the stated religion in Peru and ruled supreme in all spiritual matters. Monasteries and convents were numerous and in the latter the nuns made excellent lacework for public sale in order to further their charities. I rode over to a famous nunnery with the dual idea of purchasing a few gifts and the hope of seeing many lovely nuns. My illusion was quickly dissipated for the entire transaction took place through a peep-hole in a door so arranged that not even the eye of the seller could be seen. Surely their sales could have been doubled by devising a better psychological approach.

We met various orders of monks and friars daily on the streets and highways. They certainly created a severe strain upon the charity of the people. Underneath all the panoply of the Christian religion relevant to the church with its orders, monasteries and convents it was apparent that substantial remnants of the old Inca Sun Worship existed. Cuzco still was as much the religious Mecca of the Quechuas as ever the Arabian Mecca is to the Moslems. Old folk dances were continually held throughout the small villages and towns by which their loyal tribute to the Sun was glorified, outshining the modern compulsive and formal submission to the Roman Church. It appeared that the Church tolerated this condition while reserving for itself the traditional prerogatives of its clergy. This curious intermingling of two ancient faiths was perhaps deliberately designed to satisfy an illiterate race.

A small Protestant Mission of Canadian origin maintained its staff within the city limits and struggled to match its version of Christianity with the two older groups. It had little success. One afternoon our entire group attended a pleasant tea-party at the parsonage. The missionary was a dour personality, imbued with the single issue of conversion. He did not realize that his wife's charming personality, endowed with sympathy and tact, far outweighed his austere dissemination of the Good Word. This was my first contact with American missionary efforts and its effect upon me was definitely negative in appeal. Missionary efforts seem to create as much harm as good for we tend to view their results through our nationalistic aims rather than by an Infinite plan.

21.

A certain amount of preliminary work can usually be per-
formed before the main body of an expedition arrives at its head-
quarters. Two of the younger men had been sent down a few weeks
ahead of us for this purpose. One of them, stationed in Cuzco,
found time hanging a bit heavy on his hands and elected to cele-
brate a Peruvian national holiday with an old-fashioned, wide
open binge. At its height he recalled his irritation at the
native custom of using the streets and sidewalks as a substitute
for the ivy covered outhouses of his youth and so he purchased
about three dozen small Peruvian flags and proceeded to implant
one in each little heap in the street. The result was electric.
He landed in jail and the American authorities in Lima had to
act fast to keep the matter from becoming a "cause celebre" be-
tween the two governments. With great humor he regaled Osgood
and I with all the intimate details of the celebration and his
personal satisfaction with the outcome.

My assignment of mapping the streets of Cuzco was a very
different matter. The streets of the Indian section were prim-
itive and crooked with the most elementary type of sanitation.
Adults and children of both sexes used the middle of the street
as a common outhouse. The very high and extremely dry altitude
eliminated the usual dangers of fecal contagion for the feces
dried up and disintegrated immediately. What an exhilarating
experience it was to aim my theodilyte over the black-haired
Quechua woman who was enjoying all these open air privileges.
She just squatted in the alley with her baby securely fastened
within its blanket upon her back and kept knitting away at a
new scarf. Many an earthy custom was unearthed in the mapping
of all the haciendas, churches, stores and hovels of the City
of the Sun.

Map making had never entered my thoughts while in college.
Maps were useful on occasion but seemed rather dry and lacking
in appeal. In Peru I came to love them and after many years
I still have an affection for them akin to that which I feel for
especially fine books. Mr. Bumstead wrought the change. He was
a master at making topographic maps talk, producing contour lines
that pictured so clearly every varying elevation of precipice and
ravine, meadow and pampa, outperforming even the camera with its
inevitable blur. While making the Cuzco Basin maps we usually
camped at the mouth of a large quebrada. Messrs. Bumstead and
Hardy would map one quebrada while my arriero and I would tackle
another. With a chain, theodilyte and plane-table, we worked and
struggled up the difficult, torturous dry bed of a stream until
we burst forth upon the relatively level upland several thou-
sand feet higher. A collection of Indian huts would always be
found nearby. We then hastened our descent to camp in order to
escape the sudden onslaught of tropical darkness. Mr. Bumstead
would correlate my rough contours and barometric elevations
with his own work when making his final official map.

Professor Bingham rode into our camp at Orepesa one evning

22.

and outlined plans for us to make a topographical map of a certain
region on the Apurimac and Vilcabamba rivers between Abancay and
Lucmas. We abandoned camp the next morning and returned to Cuzco
where arrieros Marcos and Luis were ready with our packtrain. Each
member was assigned a small sleeping tent large enough for a duffel
bag and army cot. We were supplied with a 22 gauge repeating rifle
which dissasembled for saddle-bag carriage, a camera with tripod,
a lantern and aneroid barometer. Sleeping gear was a Northern Three
Star eiderdown sleeping bag with two Hudson Baywoolen blankets for
additional warmth in high altitudes. We wore knee-high leather field
boots or woolen puttees, full length all wool Jaeger underwear, ab-
dominal belts, wide Stetson hats, woolen shirts and strong hunting
coats. On location we would be 10 degrees south latitude in eleva-
tions 4-17000 feet elevation, with temperatures ranging from 15 de-
grees below zero to 100 degrees above. All these variations could occur
within a short distance. Abercromvie and Fitch had prepared our food
rations on a dietary basis sufficient to last one man sixteen days,
two men eight or four men for four. These rations were shipped from
New York in rugged tongue and grooved crates, fixed with a screwed lid
and lock suitable for mule packing. When empty they were used for re-
turn shipment of bones, shards and artifacts.

Osgood and I were thrilled. Our new route would take us out of
the Cuzco Valley into relatively unexplored country containing all the
glamour and mystery of the headwaters of the Amazon river. The inspir-
ation and hardships of this trip became the basis of a lifelong friend-
ship; Mr. Bumstead's reaction was much more conservative, however,
for he had left a comfortable home and was less keen about camp life.

For over four hundred years the Inca dynasty had maintained a
strong ascendancy in northwestern South America, now comprising Peru,
Ecuador, Bolivia and a portion of Chile. During this regime the Quechua
Indians deemed it a penance to leave sacred Cuzco, nestling as it did,
at the western end of Cuzco Valley under the shadow of its encircling
hills. Where the winding trail to the west climbs over the first pass,
they had built a small enclosure. Here the traveller turned for a
farewell view of the valley which symbolized all that was best of
their religious and commercial life. True descendants of this ancient
race still follow the old tradition and make obeisance to the east
where the Sun is born.

When our packtrain reached this little shrine we found an old
Indian within it, typical of the upland tribes of the central Andes.
His ragged knee breeches were of hand-woven llama wool, held in place
by a native girdle. It was tasseled at the ends and decorated in
the weave with curious figures of animals and human beings. Straight
lines were largely used. His legs were uncovered and very muscular.
Leather thongs passed between his toes and around the ankles, holding
in place two pieces of rough hide which served as foot-pads. His
wrinkled face was half hidden beneath a flat pan-cake hat, a type
common in these mountains.

23.

A dirty poncho was flung over one shoulder and from his
belt hung two leather pouches, one full of the inevitable coca
leaves and the other of parched corn. A Quechua Indian can travel
many leagues a day with only these two diverse foods for sutenance.
He was mumbling his sible prayer with his head toward the East.
Our packtrain slowly passed by and we, too, found it hard to leave
lovely Cuzco.

We enjoyed the thrill of riding over one of the four main
highways which connected the distant provinces of the empire cent-
uries ago. It was six to sixteen feet wide and solidly paved with
stones. In sharp ascents it took the form of terraced staircases
with stone supports.* Late in the afternoon we entered the extensive
plain of Anta on the far side of which lies the town of Zurite with
about five thousand inhabitants. We purchased a canchon of alfalfa
from an innkeeper who immediately asked us to spend the night in his
house. We considered this a good bargain since it kept us close to
our mules and cargoes.

The pack-train was on the trail by six-thirty in the morning
and soon we were crawling up the stiff divide that separates Zurite
from Limotambo. Thick mantling mists had sprung up from the Anta
plain during the night and only the bell-tower of Zurite pierced this
grey robe. Ahead of us the moisture had crystallized, producing the
effect of a snowfall, surmounted on the upper left side by glacial
icebanks.

We approached this divide with great interest, knowing that
the chances were even that the opposite valley would be closed in by
clouds. The denoument resembled climbing over a high wall. One mo-
ment you are struggling upward and the next one reveals a tremendous
valley stretching miles away to the base of magnificent Mount Salcantay.
I have seen mountains higher than Salcantay's 23000 feet elevation
but none more beautiful for it has an arrow-shaped apex of ice and is
paneled with a myriad of glaciers. A heavy cloudbark usually veils
its peak from view but this morning not a wisp of cloud appeared to
spoil the luxury of the vast panarama blending into the terrain
verdure of the jungle.

Three hours of steady descent brought us to Limotambo, where
we stopped for lunch. Several ancient Inca tambos still stand out
side the present village and adjacent to the agricultural fields.
At the height of the empire these were used as communication
for the storage of crops such as wheat, corn and potatoes, as well
as resting places for royal messengers going to and from Cuzco. Tambos
were common along the Royal Highway. The Quechua Indians of the
Andean highlands lived in great numbers at elevations higher than
10000 feet and developed abnormally strong and sturdy legs and hi-
lung capacity. They could run for hours at a steady pace over mo-
ain terrains that would exhaust sea-level people. They are still
doing it and frequently carry a light load trapped to their backs.
Conversely their upper arms are under-developed.

* "Highway of the Sun" by Victor W. von Hagen; Duell, Stoeve and Pierce.

Night had fallen when we entered the Hacienda La Estrella, owned by Senor Montez, a most hospitable host. A large acreage of sugar cane was under cultivation here and we were surprised to learn that their modern electric power plant was produced by Allis Chalmers Company.

A two hour descent the next morning was filled with the ever increasing roar of the "Great Speaker", the Apurimac river, which was welcoming us with its usual thunderous noise. We crossed the modern suspension bridge at Tablachacha, which had replaced the famous historical "rope"bridge which formed the basis of Ogden Stewart's "The Bridge of San Luis Rey". The Incas actually used interwoven vegetable lianas for suspension purposes and the swing structures formed a strong connecting link for their road systems. Stewart's book became a best seller but he took liberties with the actual conditions pertaining to the river and bridge, among them a snowstorm as an agent of the Lord. I have been in Tablachacha twice. Snowstorms? Never.

The Apurimac makes a tremendous impression when one is standing upon its banks. Its canyon walls have cut through towering mountain ranges at the bottom of which masses of glacial water roll tumultuously along. It rises fifty or sixty feet in times of violent rains in the mountains and falls with equal vigor. Except at Pasaje 's upper reaches there are no fords and therefore an inaccessible hinterland became a fortress for their Spanish struggle. Nothing better could have been created. The desolate scenery is arid and torn by heat burns down mercileously upon it. One senses the isolation of this runged land and is filled with consuming curiosity to know it better.

We reached Abancay by crossing two mountain passes at twelve thousand feet elevation. Several high ranking provincial officials live in the city permanently since it is the capital of the province. Many hacienda owners also reside here. The merchants and their stores better than average. The topographical survey started at this point and so we set up camp three miles beyond the city. From here we went to a good and I alternated each week between daily camp work and assisting Mr. Bumstead in his field work.

The Prefect entertained us at a fine party composed of government officials and important civilians. Since we had introduced from the Peruvian State Department and were escorted by an army lieutenant, this was in accord with protocol. The men were very friendly and after the formal amenities were over we were toasted individually by each of the Prefect's entourage, to which we responded in turn. This immediately broke down all language barriers and we became brothers at heart. Framed in this setting we encountered the traditional Peruvian code of personalized hospitality. One of our new friends displayed a fine old-fashioned folding watch hung upon a monstrous gold chain which one of us admired. He gave it up immediately, saying, "Oh! You like it; then take it. Its Your's". Protestations were of no avail and with great embarrassment we took

25.

it back to camp. Our relief was great when the owner's servant appeared before breakfast and retrieved it. Indulgence in such a strange custom may have been provoked by the fact that we could not possibly abscond with it from this isolated point.

One evening at sunset while we were cooking dinner three well mounted horsemen appeared. They had been out hunting and were well armed. They carried an invitation to lunch with Senor y Senora Lopez on the morrow. After working all morning we entered the patio of their hacienda quite dusty and tired and were amazed to find Senora Lopez dressed in fashionable clothes. A few moments later we were enjoying an American cocktail which was deliciously cold from glacial ice which Indians packed down daily upon their backs. The lunch turned out to be a full course dinner replete with fruits, fish, fowl, meats and dessert. It was doubly enjoyable because both our host and hostess spoke excellent English. Their music room contained a piano and after lunch Senora Lopez played and sang for us that old song of the nineties "After the Ball Is Over". A piano so deep in the hinterland demanded an explanation and she related how her father had packed it in from Arequipa upon the backs of two bullocks strong enough to handle its heavy and cumberson weight. She had inherited the hacienda and with her husband, a Venezuelan, divided the years between Abancay, London and Paris. Their lands were extensive and well contained, ranging as they did from the ice-fields to the tropical lowlands. They were able to produce such varied crops as barley, potatoes, oats, wheat and tea, coffee, coca and sugar cane, together with all the tropical fruits of South America.

A few days later our trail led us through an Indian village of three thousand population which was located upon the lands of the hacienda and we were able to visualize how such a semi-feudal estate was managed. The workers received wages of ten cents gold per day which generally rotated back to the hacienda owner at the week's end through purchases of merchandise and alcoholic beverages by the recipients of these starvation stipends. This form of disguised peonage is made possible because less than five per cent of the ruling class control all land. This chasm that separates naked poverty from entailed wealth creates in South America the anachronism of de facto dictatorships thinly hidden behind the facade of democracy. It contains all the elements that nourish Communism.

As we edged our way farther down toward Pasaje on the Apurimac River we became increasingly aware of the tropical fringe effects. Whether sitting about our camp or working on the trail flocks of birds in brilliant and gaudy plumage would suddenly screech their way from one forest to another; or a group of monkeys would make the woods pleasant or hideous with their jargon of small talk. All three of us were together one day on a high point that overlooked a vast undulating semi-jungle. Suddenly a storm developed below us and when the thunderclouds subsided a brilliant rainbow spread a soft spectrum of colour over the cloud puffs beneath, not as an arching bow but rather as a great tapestry spread over the evanescent mists.

26.

Less fortunate aspects of our outdoor life were the infi-
nite assaults upon us by bugs. We had taken smallpox and typhoid
inoculations, for these diseases together with malaria and dys-
entery, were the scourges of the lower altitudes. We drank only
boiled water. Our recourse for malaria was to chew quinine pills
when working at elevations less than six thousand feet. This is
not as innocuous as it sounds for the astringent taste puckers up
the mouth so drastically that only the last mouthful of dessert
tastes normal. Mosquitoes were not just casually present; swarms
of them took command at night. The American preparations that we
carried did not have any effect. If we closed the apertures of
our mosquito proof tents the intense heat was stifling. Our great-
est relief was to open the apertures and sleep with all our clothes
on after wrapping layers of cheesecloth around our faces and hands.

The moscas presented another problem. These minute imita-
tions of mosquitoes-but no relation- found the cheesecloths no
barrier and literally peppered us with their pinpoint jabs that
left a freckled spot on the skin's surface. At breakfast Osgood
and I always wagered as to who could count the most bites on one
hand and wrist and scarcely a morning showed less than fifty.

The mules suffered most in these tropical battles for their
mortal enemies were vampire bats. These flew at night in droves,
settling on the withers of the animal at the only spot where they
could not be kicked off or bitten with the teeth. Abercrombie's
vampire blankets did not provide sufficient coverage. The mules
lost great quantities of blood and most of their night's rest.
Unfortunately the actual flesh wounds came at the exact spot where
the primitive pack-saddles poked and scraped, particularly on down
trails. The mules finally became so weak that they were unsuitable
for work. We saved all bacon fat and grease from our rations and
each morning an arriero and I would take it to the corral. Tying
a rope's end into the doubled up mule's tail for a purchase hold,
the arriero would make a slip noose of the rope's other end and
by pulling it up under a foreleg the mule would be forced off bal-
ance to the ground. While he sat upon its head I would cleanse the
wounds with warm water and smear them with bacon grease which acted
as an antiseptic and kept the bugs away. Sometimes the wounds were
two gashes a foot or so apart and so entirely separated from the mule's
frame that I could pass my forearm through the connecting apertures.

We spent two or three days at one lovely camping site about
12000 feet high. A fine hadienda was nearby which overlooked many
fields of barley, wheat and potatoes. Indian huts dotted the coun-
try side with the usual abundance of pigs, chickens and small child-
ren. We realized vaguely that no men were in evidence but gave
little consideration to it until one dark morning about two o'clock
when the stillness was broken by bell ringings, guttural shouts and
noise all about us. Jumping out of my sleeping bag I grabbed my
revolver and gun, urged Osgood to do the same and get ready to repel
an attack. He did not respond to this eagerness for battle, but calmly
dressed and laced his field boots. With a twinkle in his eye he said,
"Joe, if I have to see my Maker in a few moments I'm surely going

28.

sand, rocks and boulders until suddenly the great frozen river was at my feet. It was most beautiful. I walked out upon its solid surface. The crevasses became deeper and deeper and their cold green depth less inviting. The inert power of the lofty ranges seemed to be waiting for my slightest error. Truth to tell I became frightened at the insecurity which my ordinary boots afforded me. I was proud to have been there and left vowing that the next time I would take a rope and a friend with me.

Above our camp at Choquetira rose the great Andean Divide which boasts a dozen or more peaks of eighteen to twenty-four thousand feet elevation. Its rugged grandeur posed a terrifically severe pack over the Chucuito Pass into the mountainous Panta region. It is difficult to describe such a crossing at fifteen thousand feet. Almost every semblance of a walking trail disappears. Mules and men climb up stony out-croppings. They proceed slowly for both are beset by siroche and must pause every few moments for breath. Abrupt step-ups of two or three feet require the men to lean a shoulder to the mules rear end and give him an upward thrust. Snow soon covers the earth and the feet of the mules become clogged with ice balls, making their balance so precarious that several fall and roll many feet off the trail. It is a heart-breaking task to reload their packs and get them on the trail again in the intense cold and high winds.

A halt is called upon reaching the top of the pass itself. Mother Nature deflated any elation that our successful ascent may have given us by displaying on each side of Chucuito the massive cordillera that rises thousands of impassable feet higher. The badly fatigued men and animals prepare themselves for the long down trail which is actually more tiring than the ascent because the constant and forward jolting of the packsaddles downgrade throws a redoubled weight upon the forelegs of all the mules, and men.

The panorama on both sides of Chucuito is magnificent. Back of us lies the barren slopes to Choquetira surmounting the jungle stretch to Pasaje. Facing ahead we view the almost unknown Panta region which embraces a wilderness of jumbled peaks and glaciers. The arrieros soon call out the familiar "Anda no mas, macho viejo!" or "Get along old horse!" and the bell-horse, which all the mules follow unerringly, starts down.

We pitched our camp at thirteen thousand feet beside the rushing stream of the inspiring valley of Arma. We were now on the eastern slope of the Cordillera where the clouds from the Atlantic Ocean, three thousand miles to the east, precipitate heavy rainfall against the mountains of the Urubamba River Basin into which the Apurimac finally flows. We ran out of provisions here and for three days enjoyed a miserable satiety of unsalted goat meat several times a day. One rainy afternoon when field work was impossible we were playing poker. Suddenly a series of yells broke the silence and we rushed outside to find a deer struggling across the foaming stream with several Indians in pursuit. Since the deer was off balance in the water we were able to catch him

29.

by the horns only and despatched by knife. Division of the spoils
was quite simple for it turned out that the Indians were satisfied
with the entrails only, which they carefully for their dinner. They
believed that they had the best of the bargain even though we enjoyed
the entire carcass. Our relief provisions arrived two days later
and fortunately contained many American canned items. These empty
tins were ideal for bartering with the Indian women who eagerly traded
goat's milk, eggs and chickens for them.

This valley had a great variety of mountain flowers and while
searching for new specimens we climbed a small hill near our camp.
The circling horizon presented a view of seventeen separate and im-
pressive glaciers upon whose fields the gleaming sunshine on some was
offset by the lightning and rolling thunder of the others. The map-
ping of ArmaValley ended in a quebrada whose upper reaches contained
a glacier. We decided to give its ending area close consideration.
It was a splendid example of a flowing ice-field with minimal evidenc-
es of debris or terminal moraine. Streams of water were dripping from
its face to give birth to an Amazon tributary. This melting process had
formed a large ice cavern under its nose, which we examined inward for
some fifty yards. It was a unique experience to see sunlight trick-
ling down through hundreds of feet of aged ice, displaying innumerable
pastel colors, high-lighted by blue-green shades of surpassing loveli-
ness. The noisy creakings and groanings of the overhead ice mass grew
louder and more threatening the further we advanced and before we reach-
ed the farthest recesses of the cavern, it made discretion overcome
valor as we turned back.

Another conserving climb over a fifteen thousand feet pass
marked our exit from the Panta area to the trail to Puquiura village.
This relatively modern town is near the ruins of Vitcos, the last cap-
itol and fortress of the Incas after their defeat by the Spaniards
in the Cuzco area. Part of our stay was at Nusta Espana which is an
ancient shrine surrounded by many legends and traditions. We actually
camped for a few days in a cane which had been used originally by the
Incas as a burial location and then converted into a jail by the
Spanish Colonials. I cooked many of our evening meals within it. *.
**.

This substantially lower elevation provided a warmer climate
which was conducive to a great variety of tropical fruits. Unfort-were in
unately two concurrent epidemics of typhoid fever and small-pox swing,
with a victim of one or the other lying in each home. Dr. Nelson
treated most of these cases but our medical supplies were too meagre
to successfully cope with all. Multiple funerals were held nightly
which were lighted by flaming torches as the mourners chanted their
way to their cemeteries. Knowing nothing about the bacterial origin
of typhoid and small-pox they had no aversion to open contact with the
patients. Relatives donned the garments of the dead immediately.

* "Wonderland of Peru", National Geographic Magazine; vol.XXIV, No. 4, page 569, shows Joseph Little cooking within the cave.

** "Inca Land", by Hiram Bingham; published by Riverside Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts.

30.

Disinfection. We were fortunate to escape without casualties in our group.

When our map-making was completed at Lucesa, a few miles
from Puquiura, we headed for Santa Ana by packing down the Vilca-
bamba River which empties into the Urubamba river. On the second day
out a cargo mule began staggering under its weight and I decided to
walk with it slowly while the others went ahead to find the night's
encampment. Even my saddle proved to heavy for it to carry, for it
finally just dropped to the ground and died. I packed the saddle on
my shoulders and proceeded forward, hoping to find our camp. The
swift approach of tropical darkness made this impossible. Instead of
sleeping on the trail, I made the foolish mistake of pushing on in
utter darkness.

Jungle noises rose constantly and the deep roaring canyon of the Vilcabamba warned me of its deadly white water. Suddenly the trail right-handed and I walked straight over its precipice. A shrub stopped my fall about thirty feet down but the saddle crashed far down to the river bottom. I inched my way back up to the trail by feeling endlessly for foot and handholds in the darkness. Back on the trail I lay down in the dirt and slept. The sun awakened me just in time to sweep off my out-stretched arm a centipede that was slowly crawling toward my mouth. Many are the stories that tell of what men have thought in dire emergencies but I can only attest that no vivoind of my past flashed through my mind. I just plain cussed. I found my companions at a very intriguing hacienda where I enjoyed huge breakfast and an outdoors spring bath.

The present owner's family had possessed this large acreage for
many generations. Since it lay astride the only trail into the interior
from the upper provinces, the owner exacted a toll from all who used it.
We enquired how the land holdings had been kept intact amid the many
revolutions. "Oh, that is very simple", our fried replies, "we
train one member of the family to be in each political party so that
we always have influence in Lima."

Santa Ana is the capitol of this province. It is a natural
distribution point for the down river trade and a large sugar cane indus-
try also surrounds it. Haircuts had been unavailable since we had left
Abancay and so all of us headed for a barber shop. For several weeks
Osgood and I had grown full and bushy beards, not only for the protect-
ion that they afforded against the huge swarms of insects but also be-
facial hair was held in great respect among the Indians as denoting su-
periority. They could seldom coax more than a few hairs on each cheek.
When Osgood's ordeal was over the Indian barber had ruined his splendid
Van Dyke beard. I had a full Governor Hughes type with a part in the
middle and strangely enough the barber made it very presentable. I was
always surprised about my beard because, when fully grown, it had a fine
tinge of burnished bronze, an inheritance that I have never deciphered.

31.

When the rest of the party left for Cuzco I stayed behind in Santa Ana because I had contracted a fever. Upon recovery I trailed up the Urubamba with my mule Manoso as my only companion. It was a solitary pack but during each hour I enjoyed the variety of scenery engendered by the duality of the river itself and the net difference of eight thousand feet in elevation between Santa Ana and Cuzco. For three full days the river rushes by the trail's edge in an impassable mass of turbulent water. I could look almost straight up and see the highest parts of the forbidding Cordillera with intervening stretches of jungle, above which lay the brown pampas. The vastness of such inaccessible vistas exerts a subtle power of mystery which challenges one to search out the hidden enigmas within them.

Macchu Picchu, the central point of our entire expedition, lay at the upper end of the Urubamba Canyon. It was in use by the Incas at the time of the Spanish conquest but its remoteness had left it undiscovered for four hundred years. Since last May, Mr. Erdiss had been removing the forest and excavating the ruins with a large ax of native workmen. All work had been discontinued by the time I arrived and the area was completely deserted. It lay upon a ridge several thousand feet above the river. I climbed up to it alone and spent a leisurely day exploring these marvellous structures, piled upon them they were into staircases, shrines and palaces.

One emerges from the canyon into the wonderfully irrigated and terraced country of the upper Urubamba River valley, which carries the Quechua name of "The Valley of Yucay". This garden spot retains many vestiges of Inca days. On the eastern hills they built endless miles of "asequias", the irrigation canals of Inca design. They are still carrying water to the fields and orchards. The terraces for soil conservation narrowed frequently to fifteen feet.

During my journey's final hours my route rejoined our outbound trail to Abancay. I stopped again at the ageless traveller's shrine before descending to the charm of Cuzco and my friends. I had, of course, been anticipating the ocean voyage home but that dream was quickly dispelled when Professor Bingham offered me the opportunity of transporting, by packtrain over the Andes, all the mules and equipment the Peruvian Expedition which had been purchased for the E.I. duPont de Nemours Company by Mr. E.N. Carpenter, their South American financial representative.

This company had obtained a nitrate concession in the southwestern desert of Peru and was outfitting an expedition for its exploitation. A successful outcome of this search for sodium nitrate-bearing caliche would break the Chilean government's monopoly in organic nitrates. I accepted Professor Bingham's offer for it provided an excellent opportunity to obtain practical experience in my chosen field of South American economics.

I entered the employ of the duPont Company on November 29, 1912.

32.

It was a depressing moment for me when the train to Mollendo puffed out of Cuzco's station carrying the other members of the expedition homeward to the United States. Twenty-four hours later, however, a telegram arrived from shipside with the message, "Goodbye and good luck! Gregory, Hardy, Eaton, Erdis, Nelson, Bumstead, Bingham," signed Bingham.

This message inspired me to begin preparations for a thrilling pack-trip across the Andean Cordillera to Caraveli, a small city on the edge of the southern desert of Peru.

43.

## Pachachacca River Valley. South wind No. 5.

**N.B.** During the stay in Senaica it was most difficult to tell the direction of the wind for it seemed to come from all regions with no relation to time of day or duration. Senaica is situated on a hillside of a transvers quebrada in the Pachachacca River Valley and at times severe gusts blew from the mountains above, generally at about 5.00 P.M.

From now on, sickness and mule troubles, together with storms and night trailing, prevented regular notes.

**Tuesday, December 17, 1912.** Slept in the morning while the mules found pasture poor in the warmth of the sun. Broke camp at 3.00 P.M. for a second night of carrying. In a short while a wind and rain storm set in which increased violently as we pursued our way to the cuchillo above us. About 4.00P.M. it started to snow. The wind separated the mules and nearly blew them over; neither mules nor men could face it; the cold became intense. Our guide said that it would be dangerous to try and climb through the pass in such a wind. Snow could be seen upon it. I considered it best to stop. Too windy to pitch tents! After corraling the animals in a steep-sided quebrada, I slept in a big, overhanging cave. During the night the mules broke out of the corral and instinctively headed straight down the mountainside for warmer climates.

7.00 A.M. In a quebrada of the Huazo Pampa about nine leagues south of Senaica. Bar. elevation 12800 feet, bar. pressure 18.08. Clouds cumulus 1.00 Wind No. 1.

12.00 M.J. On Same place. Bar. elevation 13,100 feet, bar. pressure 17.97. Clouds cumulo-nimbus 1.00. North wind No. 41.

3.00 P.M. Same place breaking camp. Bar. elevation 13050 feet, bar. pressure 17.88. Clouds cumulo-nimbus .9. South wind No. 5. Thunder and lightning with a light sprinkle at 2.00 P.M. one

6.006.00.P.M. On league south of the previous camp. Bar. elevation 13,250 feet, bar. pressure 17.55. Clouds nimbus 1.00. North wind No. 4.

## Wednesday, December 18, 1912.

Waking up in the morning I found that all the animals and arrieros had disappeared; no notes; completely alone on the high pampa; a bit eerie.

Shot two ducks before breakfast. Photographed the west side of the quebrada. Mountain rocks here are very soft and all show evidence of great wind and water erosion, with fantastic shapes showing on the cliff sides.

A noticeable feature is that about 8.00 A.M. an increasing north wind blows up the quebrada and in the afternoon a heavy south wind blows down from it.

45.

6.00 P.M. Huazo Pampa 4 leagues farther south on the trail to Coracora. Bar. elevation 14,050 ft. Clouds nimbus 1.00 with a steady rain. South wind No. 2.

## Friday, December 20, 1912

Trail all the morning over pampa at height of 14,000 feet. Reached small quebrada where pacha grass grew and stopped for two hours for the mules to rest. Rain and snow started as usual at noon. At 6.00 P.M., while debating as to whether the mules could ford a swollen freshet and cargo in the night to Coracora, one of the mules fell from weakness and that settled the question; we camped there and I wrapped the mule in blankets for the cold night.

Heavy rains above our camp are indicated by the fact that the river in front of us rose so rapidly within an hour that a ford was impossible.

7.00 A.M. Same place before breaking camp. Bar. elevation 14,005 ft. Bar. pressure 17.22. Clouds cumulus .6. No wind.

12.00 M. In a small quebrada of the Huazo Pampa called Quellemayo River. Bar. elevation 13,810 ft., bar. pressure 18.06. Clouds cumulonimbus 1.00. South wind No. 3.

6.00 P.M. Still in the quebrada. Bar. elevation 12,625 ft. (This elevation is more reliable than that of 12.00 M., because at 12.00 M. we had descended a sharp descent of more than 1500 feet in three-quarters of an hour and the barometer had not adjusted itself.) Bar. pressure 18.18. Clouds nimbus 1.00. Wind No. 1. Started to snow at 1.00 P.M., turning to rain at 3.00 P.M., which continued until 7.00 P.M.

## Saturday, December 21, 1912

Weak mule frozen to death in the morning. During the night I was awakened by the commotion this mule made trying to get into my tent out of the wind. Marks were made on mule's feet by the Indian guide in the form of a cross to keep it alive.

Other mules had eaten nothing on account of the cold, so let them graze until 10.00 A.M. Crossed freshet successfully. Henrique caught up to us with two mules. Reported that the old horse and three mules had died of cold and exhaustion; that he had slept on the pampa in the snow with only poncho to protect him.

After Henrique's arrival, list of deaths now stands:

1. White machu in Curu huasi of heat.

2. Caballo, La Negra, La Tetintá, La Frontina passed away with Henrique on high pampa of cold and weakness.

3. La Sorra, in quebrada of Huazo Pampa of cold and weakness.

4. Total, 6 mules.

Half way up ascent of 1,000 feet from freshet it became evident that two mules and possibly more could never keep up. Chose a pampa quebrada,

46.

discarded all cargoes and packsaddles, left Henrique and Luis with five mules and cargoes to wait until Marcos and I could reach Coracora and send back forage and hired mules. With fifteen mules going suelta (running free of anything) and walking most of the way we pushed on until 1.00 A.M., a twelve hour pack. Will never forget the night; cold and rainy; tired and hungry. At 1.00 A.M. in sight of Coracora and left the mules graze at pasture until morning. Slept four hours in pasture with nothing but saddle blankets and poncho to keep off rain.

7.00 A.M. Same quebrada. Bar. elevation 12,575 ft., bar. pressure, 18.22'. Clouds strato-cumulus 1.00. No wind.

12.00 M. Leaving the quebrada. Bar. elevation 12,725 ft., bar. pressure 18.12. Clouds cumulo-nimbus .9. Wind No. 1.

N.B. Between this date and the 30th of December no observations were taken on account of difficulties with the animals, night work, and my constant sickness.

Sunday, December 22, 1912

Reached Coracora at 7.00 A.M., and bought a canchon of alfalfa. Left mules feeding and entered the town; sent telegram to Mr. Carpenter.

Met Senor Calvo, the Sub-Prefect, who kindly gave me the hospitality of the Sub-Prefectura for two days. Promised me 12 mules through the Gobernador for the next morning to cargo back food to the mountains and bring in the cargoes. Bought three fanegas of oats at 3.60 soles per fanega. (1.6 bushel)

Had a great breakfast at little FONDA kept by a Chinaman. Beefsteak and french fries never tasted so good in my life after those days on the pampa.

Took a picture of the plaza and a group at Sub-Prefectura. Met Senor Menacho who is acquainted with the Brydes at La Paz and Senor Andia of Caraveli, Slept in the Sub-Prefectura.

Monday, December 23, 1912

As usual, tomorrow arrived, but no mules. The Gobernador was too lazy to get them and everybody else Sunday-drunk. Scouted myself, and arranged with Senor Lopez for eight beasts and a peon at 30 soles. It was a hard bargain but I was afraid to delay any longer. Nothing to do all day but await the mules. Sick part of the day with the old trouble, the result of the beefsteak, without doubt.

Tuesday, December 24, 1912

Mules came. Returned to canchon of alfalfa. Cared for mules and rested. Marcos went back to pampas to fetch cargoes. Had eggs and bread at noon and night. Slept on ground in old Indian hut. La Reina fooled me well when I took mules out to water. I thought I had lost her and spent several hours chasing the vicinity only to discover finally that she had rolled in grey dust and disguised herself so completely that I had even chased her out of the alfalfa.

Although no regular observations were taken in Coracora, yet it can be

49.

Monday, December 30, 1912

Left Coracora at 6.00 A.M. with all the mules in good condition. Feel a little better. Owner of alfalfa did not appear and so he is unpaid for it.
At seven o'clock the town of Chumpi is in sight. Land cultivated to alfalfa. Rest is a sandy pampa. Collected stones from hill south of Chumpi. Arrived at Ingahuasi at 3.00 P.M. and pitched camp. Elevation 10,925 ft.

This town is on Lake Parinacochas, the plains of which are low and flat, extending some fifteen or twenty miles in length and three or four miles in width, bordering the lake. Grass is abundant and hundreds of cattle, horses and sheep graze in pasture. Upon the lake are hundreds, indeed thousands of ducks, flamingoes, hualpas and other birds. They are hard to approach. The lake is very shallow, being hardly fifteen feet deep in its deepest sounding. Indications are that the former shoreline was substantially higher, taking in the bordering plain. The water is salty and there is no outlet to the lake. (See pamphlet by Professor Bingham, Yale University).

Surrounding pasture is in very good condition for this country, but beyond it the country is pampa desert. Rocks are volcanic and soft.

Across the lake to the east Mount Sara-Sara looms majestically, its snowclad peaks hidden in snow and mist.

Its a beautiful and gorgeous sight to see hundreds of flamingoes take flight in the sunlight, their wings glowing soft as crimson velvet. Again and again I stirred them up, their marvelous beauty flaming against the dark and grim mountains on these ending days of a memorable year.

In Chumpi earlier in the day I had secured a guide from the Gobernador, Nestor Castillo, a pleasant young Limanian. In conversation with him he said that he had heard on reliable information that, in a small plain near Ingahuasi and upon a mountain high up, was hidden much Inca treasure, concealed from the time of Atahualpa's ransom. The place was 15,000 ft. high and hard to work on account of rain and snow. The plain has concentric circles of stone walls, with the stones open spaced and hewn. He himself had seen some silver and gold images that weighed an ounce or more and found by Indians in that place. He had offered as high as a hundred pounds for them but could not buy them. He plans to lead a searching expedition there with good implements. How many times these tales were met up with in Peru. I never heard the result of this expedition.

Coracora, Bar. elevation 10,800 ft. 7.00 A.M. 1 league south of Coracora. Bar elevation 10,625 ft., bar. pressure 19.56. Clouds cirrocumulus .4. Breeze No. 1. In sight of Chumpi.

12.00 M. 1.3 leagues south of Chumpi. Bar. elevation 11,000 ft., bar. pressure 19.38. Clouds cumulus .3. Wind No. 3. West, rain seen on the cuchillo several leagues north of Coracora.

3.00 P.M. Ingahuasi (Lake Parinacochas). Bar. elevation 10,925 ft., bar. pressure 19.44. Clouds strato-cumulo .9. West wind No. 3.

6.00 P.M. Ingahuasi. Bar elevation 10,875 ft., bar. pressure 19.49. Clouds cumulo-stratus .8. Breeze No. 1.

50.

## Tuesday, December 31, 1912

Broke camp at 2.00 A.M. taking advantage of the cool morning and the last quarter of the moon. Rounded Lake Parinacochas in early dawn of morning. In the first paling of the dark night, great black bugs seemed to dot the lake. They turned out to be cows feeding on weeds. It was a beautiful sunrise with thousands of flamingoes, delicate pink as the morning glow crept across the lake, crimson when flying.

Trail goes level to Saylla-Saylla where there is alfalfa. Rested an hour there. Bought a quantity of milk for a medio (five cents Peruvian or two and a half cents American) that would have cost fifty cents gold in the States.

Chose trail via Airoco and Cahuaco in place of Sondor because it is more level and has more forage. From Saylla-Saylla to Airoca it is all pampa and level but one needs a guide. Airoca is high and windy with no forage; bad stopping place. Cahuaco is a pueblo with plenty of forage. Will not sell alfalfa.

7.00 A.M. Mud huts called Tarco on the extreme southwest edge of Lake Parinacochas. Bar. elevation 10,760 ft., bar. pressure 19.56. Clouds cirrus .1. Breeze No. 1.

12.00 M. 1 league west of Saylla-Saylla on the southeast corner of Lake Parinacochas. Bar. elevation 11,360 ft., bar. pressure 19.22. Clouds cirrus .2. East wind No. 4. This point is on the pampa between Saylla-Saylla and Cahuaicho.

6.00 P.M. No observations.

## Wednesday, January 1, 1913

Left Cahuaco at six A.M. and at elevation of 11,190 ft. In the pampa at noon three leagues north of Caraveli and elevation 9,025, lowest since Senaica.

Trail led over volcanic region, rocky but not too hard as all is now downhill. Reached the edge of the pampa above Caraveli at one-thirty. Very pretty valley to look down upon, but outside the green irrigated strips it is a barren nitrate type of land.

Descent of 2,000 feet into the quebrada is one of the hardest and most difficult short descents that I have known. Reached Caraveli at three-thirty. Met Mr. E. N. Carpenter, head of duPont Company in South America at that time; Mr. Sundmann, Finnish engineer for exploring nitrates and who had spent most of his life on the South American West Coast; and Dr. Wallen, physician to the expedition.

Delivered 17 mules and 1 horse and all the cargoes. 7 mules and 1 horse had died on the route.

6.00 A.M. Leaving Cahuaicho. Bar. elevation 11,190 ft., bar. pressure 19.28. Clouds stratus 1.00. No wind.

7.00 A.M. 1 league south of Cahuaicho. Bar. elevation 10,850 ft., bar. pressure 19.50. Clouds stratus 1.00. South wind No. 1.

51.

12.00 M. Pampa 3 leagues north of Caraveli. Bar. elevation
9025 ft., bar. pressure 20.92. Clouds stratus 1.00. Southeast
wind #3.

reached Caraveli at 3.30 P.M. Boiling point taken here on
Feb.4,1913, by Mr. Lomas, engineer, gives the elevation of Caraveli
as 5635 ft. by one thermometer. It will be taken over again later
on, in order to make a more definite correction of Mr. Raimondi's
map, Foja 28, in which he gives the elevation as 5979.44 ft., or,
as on one map 1823 meters.

It is a wonderful relief to get here and meet such pleasant
people. Everything is satisfactory so far. This moment ends the
crossing of the Great Cordillera and the immediate beginning of
the expedition of the duPonts for nitrate in the wastes of the
Peruvian Coastal Desert.

The previous four weeks have been hard, difficult and at
times almost disastrous. Putting the purely business aspects of
the trip, however, the crossing of the high Andes is a wonderful
and thrilling adventure. The majesty and depth, the power and height of
mountains creates an impact upon one hard to eradicate. The uplands
contain primitive society, steeped in Inca traditions centuries
older than those of the Spanish armoured Dons. Sun worshipers they
were and the glory of the sun is about you constantly, burning you
parched up in the tortuous canyons during the day even while the
frozen and barren wastes of the high glaciers, flashing and sparkling under the intensity of its attack, tell of an artic cold.
When the curtain of night wraps its blue-black blanket over this
varied land one sleeps only to awaken again to the strength of this
giver of all things, the beneficent and ever-present Sun.

(s) Joseph Little.

54.

across both boggy places and rocks. The wind was too violent to pitch tents so that we camped in a cave and placed the mules in a poor corral. During the night they broke through this and started to scatter. Most of them went in a straight line for the warmer valleys below, without following any trail. It was late the next day before all were recovered and meanwhile the storm had continued. It stopped the next morning and we succeeded in getting an early start, for the night packing was clearly not feasible at this period of the year.

At ten we had reached 14,000 feet altitude and one mule had fallen ex-
hausted, while others were evidently going to delay the whole train. I left
six with one of the arrieroes with orders to follow slowly and pushed on
slowly myself. It was not fast because the rain started again at noon,
changed to snow at four and forced us to stop. To continue in the snow was
impossible both because the mules' feet became huge balls of frozen ice and
because of the danger of losing the trail. That night we camped in the snow,
after tying the most important mules together to prevent their escaping
again. Here the mules really suffered. What little pasture there was lay
hidden beneath a coating of sleet snow and it was so cold that they had no
desire to attempt to eat, standing in a huddled group to keep warm. Several
tried to force their way into the sleeping tents.

Again we started in the morning and at noon reached a sheltered quebrada where pacha grass grew and the sun was shining. We discargoed and let the mules graze for a while. Later we were stopped by a swollen freshet and camped for the night on its bank. In the morning one mule was dead and news came by the arriero whom I had left behind that four of the animals left with him had frozen to death. He had pushed straight across the pampa by a different route than we had taken.

By 1.00 P.M., we had succeeded in going only a very short distance and were confronted by a difficult ascent. Feeling that Coracora could not be more than twelve leagues away, I left all the weak mules, all cargoes and packsaddles with two arrieros and started for Coracora. We reached it after an all night pack and obtained a field of alfalfa. Then with hired mules and forage the cargoes were brought in and all the mules except two that had frozen in the meantime.

This is all clear in the notes and needs no comment. The point to
emphasize is this: for an ordinary four day pack and one which took us six,
the trail had passed over an immense desert pampa where only the vicuna lives.
In that time we had seen only three or four shepherd huts and two or three
Indians tending flocks in the valley of a few quebradas. Each day the rain
started, then turned to snow, covering both pasture and trail. Not once does
this trail go below 12,000 feet for more than an hour or two, and for leagues
holds above 14,000 feet. Thus the heat of the river valley and the cold of
the pampa both proved injurious to the mules. In the valley one died; in the
pampa, seven. As mentioned in the notes, Marcos preserved the branding
marks and the ears of the mules that died until reaching Caraveli.

THE THIRD REASON which I place subordinate to these, is the condition
of the mules on leaving Cuzco. The mules were in fair condition and I believe
that all could have reached Caraveli easily if the forage had been plentiful
and the rainy season had not started. But the combination of the two factors
proved too much for mules that had worked as steadily as these. Even mules
in the prime of condition would have found it hard to pull through.

57.

Caraveli, Peru.

January 12, 1913.

Professor Hiram Bingham
Yale University,
New Haven, Conn.

Dear Sir;

By the last mail which leaves here once a week I sent
you a short note telling that I would later send you a fuller
account of the trip over the mountains. By this mail I send
a registered letter containing practically all of the business
of the trip; an account of the expenses made in behalf of the
duPont Company so that you can see where and what I gave the
mules; a list of the rebates as I have made them out; a short
list of my notes that were taken daily so that you can trace
the day's work and also a summary of those notes. If you think
of any other data that I can forward I shall be glad to do so
at once. Of course I have other notes in my book on the weather
and rocks but for the present I have left these, hoping to work
them up and send them to you in due time. I also have a few rock
specimens and a few photographs. The small number of the latter
is due to the fact that the rains, snow, night cargoes and the
weak mules did not conduce to such amusement. I spent all the
time with the packs.

I am sure that you will understand how dissappointed I
am to have to send you this report. If there is anything that
I can do now or look up and send you I will be glad to do it.
I feel that I have been the last one of the expedition to turn
in a bad report and that in so doing have added one more trouble
to your list. I can only say that the difficulties were greater
than I anticipated. It was sure hard to see the mules go under,
especially those that had worked with me all summer. They lit-
erally froze to death and dropped by the roadside. You may tell
Hardy that the Senorita worked harder than any other mule on the
trip and was at once called upon to continue to the port of Atico.
You may recollect that I had boasted to the effect that I would
bring "La Reina" into Caraveli unridden and well. Her back was
about the same as in Cuzco but I had been forced to put a pack
on her at the end of the trip as she was the strongest of the lot.

As for myself I enjoyed the trip to a great extent;
enjoyed it in the sense that the country was but another type still
of what this country can show. Instead of lofty mountains and
glaciers or the forest of the Urubamba, I saw the immense pampas
stretching for hundreds of miles with no living being on them
and experienced the bitter cold of snow and rain in the high places.
It was worth much but I do not care to go to Cuzco again by the
same route. Even the much abused railroad has an attraction
sometimes.

58.

My work here promises to be very interesting and not yet have I regretted that I decided to remain. After resting in Caraveli for nine or ten days I came to the camp in the pampa and shall probably be here most of the time of this investigation. The charge of the books has been given to me as well as time-keeper and storekeeper. The training in itself ought to be of immense value as a regular system of books is kept and the development of the business should give many opportunities, provided that I can make good. The work of investigation alone will probably take over a year and if nitrate of sufficient quantity is found it will mean railroads, reservoirs and the future expenditure of great capital. I feel now that I have been very fortunate to have had this chance and again wish to express my thanks to you for your interest in me.

Probably for some time I will not be able to send any news of interest to you or your classes "from the front" as we are up here miles from any town; when the time comes I will send what little data I have taken. At present I have started to take regular weather observations and pressures.

As the head engineer here is taking bearings on Mt. Corapuna and does not know much about the mountain nor which is the highest point I think that he would appreciate reading your record of the ascent although I have not asked him. If you could send it with this year's reports sometime I would appreciate it very much.

I wish to thank you and the others for the telegram that you sent from Mollendo. It reached me in Cuzco. If you would please mention to Hardy that I am getting to a point where I will have time once more to start my correspondence and that then he will hear from me regularly.

With best wishes to you and for the continued work of the expedition in the University, I am,

The Peruvian Expedition of 1962.
under the auspices of
Yale University and the National Geographic Society.

Hiram Bingham, Director.
Drawer A, Yale Station, New Haven, Conn.

February 13, 1913.

My dear Little;

I have read your letters and your notes and accounts
with the very greatest and most sympathetic interest. I knew
that you would have a hard time but I had no idea that it would
turn out to be so difficult. It could not have been more diffi-
cult had you gone by way of Cotahuasi; and yet when you once
got to Coracora you had an easier time than you would have had
from Cotahuasi on. You have learned by bitter experience some
of the hardships that are included in the word "exploration"
and I am glad to see that you are not discouraged but can look
ahead with a cheerful countenance. The one thing to do is to
guard your health with the utmost care. If you are still troub-
led with dysentery, you should take pains to get hold of a large
quantity of bismuth. I will ask Bestor to write you of how he
was cured and that may benefit you. Do not let it go too long.
My father suffered from tropical dysentery for years and although
it did not prove fatal, it greatly interfered with his work and
if he had not had a magnificent constitution (he was the strong-
est man in college in his time) he would have succumbed to it.

I am writing W.R.Grace and Company asking them to place
to Mr. Carpenter's credit 760 soles, 25 cents, as per your state-
ment. You had very poor luck with your weather just as poor
Scott did. Amundsen, on the other hand, had wonderfully good
luck, lost no men and had more dogs at the end than he had at
the beginning. Scott in going across practically the same country
at almost the same time of year had terrible weather and was finally
overcome himself with all the members of the party that reached
the South Pole. With the best will in the world and the best pos-
sible organization and preparation, exploration is difficult and
out of the way places are ever fraught with danger.

I hope to hear from you at intervals and how the arrieros
are getting along and how you like your work and how you are
doing. I am proud of your record; it shows that you had courage,
bravery, patience and a good head which you used well in bad emer-
gencies. No one could have done better under the circumstances.
The thing that astonishes me most is the inhospitality you en
countered at La Estrella. How do you account for it?

(signed) Hiram Bingham.

Copy.

60.

New Haven, February 13, 1913.

Dear Mr. Carpenter;

Doubtless you have received copies of Little's
letters and his reports of expenses in transporting mules and
sundries from Cuzco to Caraveli. I find that I am indebted to
your company in the sum of 760 soles and 25 cents, being the balance
due for the mules and other goods not delivered. I enclose a
copy of my letter to W.R.Grace & Co. in Lima, authorizing them
to pay this amount to Mlne & Co. for Mr. Carpenter's account.

Little had a taste of the same kind of bad
luck in regard to weather that beset poor Scott in the Antarctic.
When explorers and frontiersmen have a run of good luck everyone
forgets the risk and the danger. It is only after reading a
story like this of Scott's that one can appreciate his. Such a
story has in it all the elements of Anglo-Saxon bravery and cour-
age in the face of illness and the worst kind of weather that the
Andes could give him. I think that you have occasion to be proud
of having in your employ a fellow with so much grit and determin-
nation as Joseph P. Little. Some men whom I have had on my exped-
itions would have deserted practically all of their mules and all
of their outfit and thought only of saving themselves and getting
out alive. It seems to me from his report that he may have con-
tracted amoebic dysentery in which case he will need two pounds of
Bismuth sub-nitrate to put him on his feet again. --------

With kindest regards, believe me to remain,

R.R.M. Carpenter,
Wilmington, Delaware.

63.

Mid-day trail follows ancient sunken river bed for miles. Quebrada walls rise several hundred feet on either side. Can-not get out if we want to. Finally a cross-trail appears and we climb to the main desert floor. All afternoon is a dusty pack across one hillock of sand and then another. Volcanic rock formation is everywhere and in the quebradas numberless evidences of prehistoric ocean life show openly in their walls. Shells, mollusks, vertebrae tell of a time when all this was under salt water.

Mules have a tough time of it. We finally hit camp #1 at 5.30. Wooden office is not yet constructed so we revert to tents, sleeping bags. An outdoor kitchen is a lean-to affair of four poles thrust into the sand, tied together with burlap strips.

Jan. 14, 1913.

Busy all day organizing tents, getting tools in order and attempting to start books and inventory records. Some job in the great outdoors.

Jan. 15, 1913.

Rough lumber being packed in by mules for an office building and sleeping quarters. Contractors get busy erecting them. No cellar needed. two other camps being erected for prospecting some fifteen miles apart under direction of Lomax.

Jan. 16-Feb. 8, 1913.

Impossible to keep daily notes. A certain confusion exists these first few days. Large quantities of food, materials and tools arrive daily by mule train. Have to weigh all items, check their invoices and set up double-entry books.

Office building is finally complete and makes life much easier. The desert is unbelievable to me for I have never been in one; cool at night but unbearably hot during the day.

The job we have to do is simple. The duPonts have a lease option on 1000 square miles of this desert running for 99 years if exercised. Its only value will depend upon discovery of "caliche", the nitrate bearing deposit made by the ocean when the land was submerged and which still exists due to the extremely dry climate which prevents the dissipation or dilution of the chemical. To this date Chile has had a world monopoly on virgin nitrate, becoming wealthy by placing export taxes upon it. Their big fields are to the south of our concession, across the Peruvian-Chilean border, where it is mined in large quantities and exported from the ports of Iquique and Antofagasta.

If the duPonts find sufficient caliche here, they will have to build a seaport, railroads up from the ocean, processing factories and houses for the workers. It is a gamble and a big one.

Have signed up with International Correspondence Schools, Scranton, Pa. for a course in bookkeeping and a Palmer Shorthand course from London, England. Am weak in the former and no good at all in the latter and the typewriter would be a bastard portable Corona.

Not much to do except work. Can ride about the hills but they are all the same and one cannot go far and leave the camp unprotected. My work involves staying largely at Camp #1 and seeing that proper shipments are made to the other camps.

Have had a couple of wonderful campfire talks with Lomax. He is thoroughly British, Empire minded, and so of course we do not see eye to eye on Bunker Hill and such debatable matters. He tells marvellous stories of beachcombers on the West Coastal ports.

## Sunday, Feb. 9, 1913.

Entered Milne & Company* invoices for October 10, 1912. Made up account of A. Salinas**. Despatched arrieros to Atico*** with fourteen mules.

Dispatched arrieros Tamayo and Sandubal to Camp #3 with provisions from Contractor's tent.

Mr. Lomax(Henry) in Camp #3. He brought me back a rock specimen with something like roots in it; was found about three feet below the surface in a test hole. Moscoso brought me three transparent obsidian pebbles from Camp #3, Square #103; also some surface pebbles much worn; and a piece of old pottery found in the open desert away from any track.

Read a little from Stevenson's quotations.

## Monday Feb. 10, 1913.

Wrote Clint Farnham about special stones found here.

Copied Mr. Wallen's Caraveli inventory.

At noon packed up a few of the little glass crystals found in volcanic rock.

Started to type the meteorological reports of the Cuzco-Caraveli trip.

## Tuesday, Fed. 11, 1913.

Four cargoes of alfalfa and one of water weighed in this morning. Letter dispatched to Dr. Wallen, Mr. E. N. Carpenter and Clint.

Petty cash made up. Built me a little letter box.

N.B. * Milne & Company, our supplier and correspondent in Lima.

** A. Salinas, our contractor in the desert.

*** Atico, small open roadstead port on Pacific ocean; destroyed by earthquake later.

66.

March 13-20, 1913.

The expedition operates from a central camp which supplies the entire needs of ten subordinate camps simultaneously. Operators of these locations explore for or actually dig down to sample the vein depth of such caliche formations as are found. All camps are directly supervised by Mr. Lomax who spends the majority of his time in the field.

Camp #1 supplies all camps with food, meats and operating requirements and my main task is to keep a set of books that show correct inventory balances by location. Our small wooden office building doubles as a dining room to which food is served from the outdoor kitchen by Mariano. The winds which blow constantly always help the chef sprinkle all foods with a liberal portion of sand.

The main disadvantage of this open air living is the constant propagation of millions of flies. They are a pest at all times with the height of their annoyance coinciding with meal times when it is literally impossible to keep them from entering one's mouth with the food. The evnings being cool they nest in droves upon the inside rafters of the dining room. Each night we make a flaming torch on the end of a long pole, pass it rapidly along the roof beams and singe their wings just enough to make them fall to the floor. Each morning a large basket is filled with them, dead proof that our efforts have failed to decimate them.

March 21-28, 1913.

Superstitions, which probably had their origin in pre-Spanish times, are prevalent everywhere. I had a personal experience with one of them last week. It concerned a small scorpion type of lizard with the musical name of chuquique macha. They are only two or three inches long and can be encountered unexpectedly in strange places such as the cracker box or one's bed. Its bite is about as welcome as a rattler's in Wyoming. Mariano told me many tales of their deadly attack, protesting loyally that he would come to me for iodine and the knife if he were bitten.

It happened suddenly. I could see that he was almost hysterical with terror as he ran into my room and shouted "chuquiquemacha". I gave him my best snake-bite treatment, bandaged his wrist and made him promise to return in the evning. He did not show up. He left camp as soon as darkness descended and headed for Caraveli for the native doctor's ancient Indian treatment of herbs, food and drink.

The strangest thing about this elaborate ritual requires

67.

that the patient drink a brew partly composed of his own fecal matter. Mariano came back in three days assuring us that he was completely cured. I have preserved a specimen of this scorpion in alcohol and shall send it to Professor Bingham.

A day came when Mariano and I could leave camp safely. Taking a couple of pack-mules we trekked across the desert to an intersection of two trails. The first runs between Caraveli and the coastal town of Chala, the rough direction being east and west, while the other trended north and south. This intersection was made at the bottom of a wide quebrada, and, as the northern trail emerges from the sunken river bed to the desert plain 400 hundred feet above it, the walls on both sides are covered with pictographs and glyphs of men, women, llamas, deer, snakes and other objects.

These carvings must have conveyed definite information to whatever race portrayed them, the most obvious being travelling information. They may be the equivalent of modern road signs, since this is the only possible crossing of the quebrada for many miles. Both modern and ancient villages are far distant and water and forage are unavailable. Passable trails in this area are scarce and often barely definable.*

Any analysis of this desert leads to the related geology of the Pacific Ocean. Without doubt land area was above the ocean level once with large and steep rivers cutting out the quebradas as they flowed to the ocean. Subsequently, after a submergence of many eons, a tremendous geological upheaval thrust it upwards again to its present high plateau of 6000 feet elevation. The side-walls of the intersecting trails of this quebrada show unmistakable evidence of marine life such as sharks teeth, petrified mollusks, many varieties of shells, as well as a few outlines of fishes in sedimentary formations.

April 6-13, 1913.

The expected packtrain from Atico arrived yesterday. The mules and horses are very tired.

When taking morning rides to the summits of nearby hills I nearly always find a circle of rocks on top, with diameters of 12-30 feet. A good solution for their presence is not apparent and at present religious significance is absent.

Last evening Derr and Sundman posed the question of whether the current culture of Caraveli exceeded in merit that developed by a pre-Inca race. We all agreed that there would be little basic difference. House foundations and construction are the same. Irrigation systems are little improved. Tropical crops and fruits have changed but little. Religious cultures are diverse, with Sun-worship opposing Christianity but the former would have but a small task to improve upon the current characteristics of local inhabitants, a large proportion of whom are lazy, drunken and immoral.

N.B. *See chapter VI, "Pictographs and Glyphs, Caraveli Desert".

April 14-21, 1913.

I have just returned from a fast trip to Caraveli to talk with the
contractors about closing up the expedition and settling their ac-
counts. Mariano was my companion for one seldom travels alone. We
stopped at an hacienda to watch the natives make a crude wine.

They threw the grapes into adobe vats, some six to eight feet high,
where several naked men trample out the juice in the hot sun while
Indian troubadours play wierd, minor tunes. And all this goes on
and on into a state of exhaustion! Of such ingredients is the "wine
of the country"- an entrancing combination of dirt, perspiration---
and grapes.

We drink it sometimes as one of three choices of liquid refreshment.
Water became taboo after the first month because Mr. Lomax stumbled
onto the source of the water which a contractor was furnishing us in
the main camp. He filled his water casks from a water hole where
twenty or thirty cattle were standing many hours day and night. Boiling
such a liquid did not completely remove our vision of bacteria de-
velopment in such placid surroundings. Inevitably we were thrown
back to whisky and rum, fervently hoping that alcohol kills all germs.

April 22-May1, 1913.

My last trip to Caraveli was today, May 1, by direct trail across the
desert. I enjoyed a good visit with Senora Sabinaco. Returning to camp
I took another route which paralells the Caraveli River south until
it becomes a dry arroyo. My object was to visit old ruins which are
described later in chapter VI, Desert Ruins Near Caraveli".

May 2-9, 1913.

We are closing down all operations and caliche mining has stopped.

An attempted robbery at Camp I has stirred up great excitement. A niate expedition requires a large quantity of dynamite for blasting off surface rock from the caliche or raw nitrate. We stored our surplus a safe distance from our quarters and assigned an arriero to sleep near it during the nights. Dynamite also has a very high value in the desert. The rattle of firearms woke us one night, telegraphing that robbers were at work. We saved the dynamite but although the tracks of the attackers were fairly clear the local police never arrested anyone. Without doubt some townspoeple collaborated in the attempted theft.

May 10-16, 1913.

Climatically this is a wonderful place to live. A never-ending deluge
of sunshine! It is occasioned by the fact that we are near the 15th
paralell South, with year round prevailing winds blowing from the
West or off shore. Consequently, the nights are cool enough for
blankets at this 6000 feet altitude while the midday intense heat
makes woolen underclothes advisable for helping to ward off the

69.

direct sun rays. I always wear a Jaeger woolen abdominal belt such as the British soldiers wear in the tropics. The intense perspiration makes it limp quickly but it protects the stomach and abdomen from the drastic changes in temperature which take place during each twenty-four hour period. Hiding at noontime one cannot drop his hands upon khaki covered knees. About three o'clock the wind veers to the west and reversing itself blows up to the desert the ocean's increasing coolness all night long.

Living in this never-ending desolation one soon realizes the tremendous influence and majesty of the sun. Nature forced the Incas to become Sun worshipers. Map-wise the country is tropical but the great Andean Cordillera comprises the north and south backbone of their land upon which millions live at altitudes higher than ten thousand feet elevation. With equal beneficence it pours upon the watery Amozonia jungle and retreats from the glacial upland. One looks to its Providence daily for each hour is dependent upon it.

Sixty miles to the east, Mount Coropuna's triple peaks tower twenty-one thousand feet. Each morning this Incaic Sun transforms its frozen wastes. Deep blankets of blue-black shadow become a symphony of white and gold, austere and forbidding. Valley mists cradle its lower shoulders. Warmth and life embrace it during the day's long hours until it veils itself in daylight's farewell. Then it is that all shades of crimson and yellow and shadowed blue flame up as the sun reaches for the western horizon, exhausting itself in the creation of delicate pastel colors that usher quick dusk upon us. For long moments after the golden orb has sunk into the Pacific Ocean its rays continue to roam upon the gorgeous glaciers of Coropuna, dimming out their hibernal silence. The deep and hidden emotions of the soul are stirred by the mystic, alluring voice of the Incan Sun.

May 17, 1913.

We are aboard the steamer Mantaro at Atico, headed for Callao. Camp #1. was crossed entirely on May 14th when Derr, Sundman and myself left it for Atico. The previous day was spent selling the camp equipment to buyers from Caraveli. Senor C. Velarde bought the general camp structures. The steel and dynamite went to Dr. Maldonado. Senores J. Velarde and Ramirez bid highest for the office building.

70.

The nitrate venture is an entire failure. Mr. Lomax examined 1000 square miles of desert using ten field camps to full ad- vantage. Caliche deposits are plentiful but not rich enough in commercial content for developement.

Messrs Derr, Sundman and myself left camp early May 15th. I rode Sundman's macho, a very good saddle mule with an easy gallup. We lunched on a high hill where we could watch the Pacific breakers roll in to the sandy shore. We descended hur- riedly to the beach and plunged into the surf which was partic- ularly inviting to me after a full year in the hinterland.

Atico is a small town of mud and bamboo huts situated in a quebrada of the same name, with some two hundred population. Vegetation covers about one square mile. Alfalfa, potatoes, bananas, guayas and other tropical fruit flourish wherever there is water. This little town gave me a memorable banana experience. A tramp steamer had unloaded a mixed cargo here consigned to the duPont expedition. I gave Marcos and Luis orders to bring it up to Camp #1 and gave them ten cents American money to buy a few bananas. When the packtrain unloaded a few days later one mule was completely loaded with great bunches of bananas of all types- yellow, red, long and short. I remonstrated with the men but they only laughed and said that "todas las bananas por los diez centavos", (they only cost ten cents).

Senor Rivera furnished us quarters for the night and as we were enjoying the evning's glamour, Mariano came up and said "Go to the plaza, senores, and see the arriero". We went at once and found him in drunken Indian splendor, displaying a mattress to the assembled Aticans in the center of the plaza upon which he proposed to sleep. Each corner of his bed was ceremoniously decorated with his purchases from our sale of the previous day- fine, white, good old American four poster thunderjugs. He was admired by all as he enjoyed his wealth with the aid of a bottle of whisky.

In the morning we left Atico for the port itself, about three miles distant, where a small promontory makes a semi-harbor for tramp steamers. The entire operation consists of one house for the agent and a hut for the workmen; no vegetables, no poeple; all rocks and sand; desolate place; one old derrick for hoisting mules and cargoes onto the shipping lauches.

The steamer was a day late and so we sent the mules back to Atico. Derr, Sundman and I slept on the beach under a brilliant moon at three quarters and the Southern Cross low in the heavens. The noise of the steamer's siren wakened us at five o'clock. Derr and I swam for awhile and then sweated out a three hour period during which the captain threatened to depart without them. My farewell with Marcos and Luis was a deeply affectionate one for they were capable and loyal men who had carried the burden for me in many rough spots. Mariano returned to his home in Caraveli.

71.

About one-half mile southwest of Atico are ruins of
of an old city which very much resemble those in the Caraveli
quebrada except that the houses and corrals are larger; more of the
stones are roughly faced. I do not have time to examine them
closely. Smaller ruins are found on the shore about one and one
half leagues to the north. Remnants of a very old, unpaved road
are visible following the shoreline with a width of about sixteen
feet. It is marked by two rows of stones, one on each side. Veg-
etation is absent from these ruins for all available water is
used in present day Atico.

The city does not have telegraph connections and is not a
regular port of call for steamers. Chala is the nearest point
for these services and is forty miles to the north. In this
latitude the distance between shore line and foot-hills is quite
narrow ending with a sharp ascent to the desert elevation of
5000-6000 feet.

May 17, 1913.

After steaming northward all day we stopped two hours at
Port Lomas. It is a small town with a little well water, no rail-
roads and no vegetation of any kind. The country is a bit flatter
here and the hills of Lomas recede six leagues from the coast. Ex-
ports are cattle and copper ore in sacks. It is understood that
east of here coal, iron and copper deposits are rich in content
with some active production.

We left at 10. P.M. after loading one hundred cattle and
two launch loads of copper. In the morning we ran into fog
and the horn went into action. Later visibility disclosed two
whales, seals and many birds.

Captain Winrow is an energetic and capable man of British
extraction. Captain Potter was introduced in Callao harbor and
is a slower paced individual. Mr. Garcia of San Francisco is
returning home and was delighted to see us.

May 18, 1913

The San Lorenzo Islands outside Callao harbor were sighted
at 3.50 P.M. and anchor was cast at seven. The custom officials,
by government order, passed our baggage through unopened and we
were soon at the Hotel Maury in Lima, very tired in body but happy
in spirit.

Mxxxi & xxxi

Derr, Sundman and I went back to Callao and with some trouble
got the mules ashore. We called at Milne & Company and met Mr.
Milne and his daughter, an attractive girl, and then returned to
the Hotel Maury to find the cuisine excellent.

Mr. Milne (Fred) called on us later and brought a welcome
batch of mail for everyone and the afternoon was spent reading it
and unpacking our camp clothes. Orders from home are to close
up all business at once after which Messrs. Carpenter and Derr
have indefinite leave of absence. Word has not yet come from the
Chilean duPont office as to my possible employment.

72.

We dined at the Exposición Restaurant where one could select his own avacados from the patio trees. It was a fine treat, accompanied with the music of an Austrian trio which played "Madame Butterflu" and "Recuerdos".

I arose late and found that some thief had broken the lock of my trunk to steal all my neckties. He was selective, at least.

Several business men from the United States are staying at the hotel and the interchange of gossip reveals; first, that Mr. Bates has lost his application for a government irrigation concession in the north; second, Mr. Borer failed to have one granted in the coastal area of Payta; third; the syndicate of Messrs. Crawford and McCune is having a hard time with President Billingshurst who is holding it up on technicalities. This covers minerals, mahogany and rubber on the Ucayali River, operating under the name of Pacific and Amazon Company. If permission is granted work will start at once; President Billingshurst's political relations are now bad and he can trust no one.

May 20, 1913.

Betty McCune called on me today. We had never met although we had started corresponding while I was in the desert, through the medium of Mr. Carpenter. She is very attractive and accompanies her father while he develops any concessions he may obtain. Years ago he crossed the American plains by ox-cart and made a fortune through mining and gambling. He told me that his first big break came in a poker game when he won control of a rich mining claim. I have watched him wager heavily in the Chinese gambling houses here which are licensed by the government. Their home is in Salt Lake City.

May 21-May 31, 1913.

This morning I made a final closing of all the expedition's accounts in the Callao office of a Peruvian auditor.

In the afternoon I visited with Mr. Babbitt who is in charge of Cerro de Pasco's Lima office. I presented Professor Bingham's letter of introduction to Mr. Kingsmill to him and he will make arrangements for my employment at the Morococha Division.

Days and nights pass swiftly with many an afternoon spent at the American and British consulates where the younger foreign set congregate for tennis and dances. Unquestionably, daughters of overseas families are in the majority, in contrast to unmarried men who are much less in evidence. Invitations to afternoon teas at British homes were frequent and especially so at Mr. Milne's. The latter arranged temporary memberships for us at the British Phoenix Club, which was a good refuge in Lima with its recreations of cards, pool and billiards.

73.

Empire Day provides an outstanding event for British colonials to celebrate all over the world. The Lima Golf Club held athletic competitions all day long, followed by a formal dinner which was maximized by a toast to their Sovereign. I was included in the party of Mr. Milne and the Cerro de Paseo officials.

Mr. McCune took me and Betty to the Exposition Restaurant one evening where his son joined us later. He had just returned from an overland packtrip to the eastern slopes of the Andes which took him into the jungle area of the Ucayale River and his fascinating stories of that primitive region, where the head-hunting Indians lived, excited us. His photographs of the montana and the cordillera are magnificent. The object of his trip was to locate gold placer mining claims which had been acquired from prospectors. I was extremely interested because I had packed down the upper part of this river where placer mining was utterly impossible.

Our paths soon parted but four years later I followed reports of his trial in a United States Federal Court. He was convicted of making fraudulent claims regarding these mines to stock buyers. Hyperdermic needles had been used to inject additional gold contents into mailing samples that had already been sealed by the Peruvian Post-office officials.

Predictions of a revolution filled the club every day but we ignored them until a British gunboat dropped anchor in Callao harbor. A one day revolution did take place shortly after this but we kept out of danger by staying in the Phoenix Club for twenty-four hours. The fall of the government disturbed few people.

The diplomatic arrival of his Majesty's gunboat demonstrated how well the British government its foreign citizens and interests. Other nations do not seem to care about their colonials. The British flag carries the most influence in all parts of the interior of Peru and I always carry one for protection.

Pizzarro built the great cathedral, which, with the National Museum and the Archbishop's Palace, face the Plaza de Armas. I visit the cathedral often to compare its numerous relics with those of Cuzco and Arequipa and especially to see Pizzarro's Tomb. Sunday mass is the most interesting time to be present and watch the parade of the lovely but closely guarded senioritas of the upper social class.

The status of these young women can be divined by the delicate beauty of their mantillas with their high supporting combs. The majority of women wear plain black mantas which are square cotton head coverings.

I did not enjoy my first professional bullfight in Lima but before I left Peru I became a true aficionado. At one memorable corrida the matatadora was a beautiful woman, strikingly dressed in her professional garments. As the infuriated bull charged toward her a mishap occurred in her timing and the horns of the bull encirled her breasts, gliding underneath her armpits. She was the angriest and most dusty

74.

woman I have ever seen as she arose from the dirt with her lovely finery in disarray. She waved aside the attendants who rushed to her aid and played the bull correctly before despatching him with a perfect thrust. She retired with the honors of the day amidst tremendous applause.

After enjoying two weeks of the social amenities of Lima, my connection with the duPont Company ended on May 31st. Mr. Lomax has already joined another government mission at Caraveli. Messrs. Carpenter, Derr and Sundman exchanged farewells with me at the Phoenix Club with mutual good wishes to meet again in the United States.

The desert episode of searching for caliche now ends. The experience of camping for many months within the desert has created within me an abiding love for the lonely existence which a vast barren land so insidiously offers with its breadth of solitude.

75.

Camp "I
Caraveli Desert, Peru.
February 25, 1913.

Desr Sir;

Your letter written on the 27th of December 1912 is at
hand and would say that your account in regard to the subscript-
ion of the National Geographic Magazine is in accordance with
mine, the six soles that I remitted to you in Cuzco being for the
one year's foreign subription. I wish to thank you for the
trouble that you took in nominating me to the Society as I have
received official notice that I am now a member and have recieve
the issues of the magazine up to date.

I acknowledge also the receipt of the medical report of
the 1912 Expedition and on the last mail have received from you
the pamphlet "A Search for the Last Inca Capital" and the book
"Vitcos, The Last Inca Capital". The first of these I have read
already and found that it was exceedingly interesting, both be-
cause it recalled the places that I had been in and made them
much clearer in their significance to me than formerly. The longer
article I am reserving for a good opportunity because reading mater-
ial is too precious to skim through hurriedly. Thank you for both.

The work on the nitrate catoe is each day getting more sys-
tematized and more interesting. As a very small part of the con-
cession has been examined, no definite opinions have been expressed
but it is known that there is caliche here. From the preparations
under way one may assume that the party will be in the field at least
four or five months more. Mr. Carpenter is at present in Lima. I under-
stand that Mr. Derr will arrive and join us shortly.

Personally I enjoy my work very much and feel that I am ob-
taining a valuable experience as well as a good salary. As all the
books are under my care I will soon know how to keep an entire set.
We have now a small portable wooden house to work in, more comfort-
able than tents.

On February 21st Henrique Santos died in Caraveli of pnu-
monia. He was the arriero we engaged in Cuzco for his knowledge of
Quechua. Ever since our arrival in Caraveli he had been ailing with
a cough and cold which suddenly developed into a serious nature with
final death. I have no doubt but that he contracted the primary
symptoms during the days on the packtrip when he was exposed for
hours at a time to rain and snow with insufficient food.

During my spare moments I have amused myself with various
things, though some of them may not be of value. I. I have typed
a record of the meteorological observations taken on the trip from Cuzco.

77;

Camp #1.
Caraveli, Peru.

April 12, 1913.

Professor Hirwm Bingham
Yale University
New Haven, Conn.

Dear Sir;

Last week I wrote to Hardy and in the letter mentioned
that I might delay writing to you for some time on the chance
that I might be in Lima. Developments in the last few
days seem to indicate that I will not go, so that I will send
you a rather delayed answer to the one that I received from
you nearly a month ago and dated February 13th. I was very glad
to receive your letter and know your opinion of the trip.
Thank you for your words of good cheer for I appreciated them
very much. I have also received in the last mails the pamphlet
on "Axes" and your pamphlet on the ascent of Mount Corapuna.
The latter has been read by us all and the engineer Mr. Lomax
has used it in his work. Each day, especially in the morning,
the great tri-dome stands out on the horizon some seventy miles
away. I wanted Mr. Lomax to have it as has triangulated the dome
from camp.

he

Without saying anything yet that Mr. Carpenter might not
wish repeated, I think that I can say that the expedition here
has been a complete failure. A little nitrate has been found but
not in any quantity such as would warrant an approach to an ofici-
na. It has been a big disappointment to all, the government in-
cluded. President Billinghurst cannot credit the reports that
nitrate is not here, for the previous engineers were Peruvians
and had followed the usual custom of keeping their positions
through lies of all sorts. They reported ten to twelve feet and
we have been lucky to have found twelve inches. On the next steamer
Mr. Carpenter and Mr. Lomax are going to Lima for the windout
with the government and to arrange for the cessation of the work.
At first I thought that I would go also but now Mr. Derr and I
are to remain here for the end. All our workmen leave here by
the next boat so that things are in earnest all right. Chile
will have the broad smile, I imagine.

My sickness has been gradually going and now I am all
right, I think. Due to your kindness in writing to the Wilming-
ton office, they sent Mr. Carpenter three pounds of chemically
pure bismuth. Following the instructions that Bestor used as
well as possible in a camp of this kind, improvement was rapid.
This is such an unsanitary place that we are still boiled water
fiends. It will be one of the things to be thankful for when I
can drink a good glass of water without wondering how my chances
are for a long existence. I have been in camp all the time and

78

working on the books. I have enjoyed the camp life very much
and the work as well. I feel that I have really learned a few
of the rudiments of bookkeeping. When this work is over I do not
know just what my plans will be but Mr. Carpenter has suggested
that he may be able to send me to the oficina in Taltal until
he should need me as a kind of secretary in Valparaiso or Iquique
if the home office should send him to Chile again. If such an
opportunity comes to me I think that I shall accept it in prefer-
ence to the Cerro de Pasco mines. I should be glad to have your
opinion as to the relative desirability, though. . If I go to
Chile are there any things that I can do for your the University?

Now I must make what I like to call a report to you.
I have developed the pictures that I took on the trip from Cuzco
and some of them are all right and some are not. Also I have
taken three films since I have arrived here and as that makes a
film book I expect to send it registered soon, 'in all probability
I shall ask Mr. Carpenter to mail it in Lima. My photographic
work shows many signs of inexperience and I realize it very much.
In time I hope to improve. The pictures here are very hard to take
The sand seems to have a peculiar light value and the horizon is
never clear-cut, but always lined with a blue haze. Perhaps they
are good for an idea of the place. I would give anything to be
able to picture the wonderfully beautiful colors that these cliffs
and sands can assume in the sunsets. They are marvellous. In re-
gard to the numbering of these had no idea of what number to
take so I finally adopted the plan of starting with number I and
placing my initial after it so that you would know mine from the
expedition's. Thus they are numbered 43 L or 25L. Another thing
that I would like to ask is this, -many times I find that I would
like to take pictures that will have no especial interest to you
such as group pictures, yet these are not the things for which you
gave me the films. As it is probable that I will stay a long time
in South America I would like to suggest that I use your films for
any purpose that comes along, scientific or personal, and that
when they are used up and I buy more personally, I will send you
these as well, giving you all the negatives that I take while in
South America for your collection. I could have those that I
wanted printed when I return and in your large collection the few
personal ones that I take will pass unnoticed.

In my last letter I mentioned that Mr. Lomax had run across many
inscriptions on rocks. I notice that you found some on the ascent
to Corapuna. As yet I have not had a chance to photograph these
but I shall send you one that Mr. Lomax took. It shows the inscrip-
tion quite plainly.

I think that I have some rock specimens and fossil shells
that are worth sending home. Naturally I do not know their scien-
tific value but they include spiral shells, petrified sea-urchins
shells, petrified clam shells, volcanic surface rocks, etc. Some
of these have been taken from two or three feet below the surface
of the nitrate test holes. In one pampa an area of some nine square
miles has a layer of sea shells in each formation, of perhaps
special interest will be a collection of teeth that Mr. Lomax

79.

found imbedded in sand. They appear to be fishes teeth. Above the teeth deposit was a layer of petrified shells and all this I have described in the paper that you will find with each specimen. I shall not send this small box of specimens until I can remit it in Lima through some reliable house and if you can I wish that you would tell me the best way to send it in regard to custom houses here and home. The box should not be opened if possible for the shells are fragile and packed in cotton. Then, too, will the Peruvian government get obstinate if I address it to you?

As to weather observations I have taken them with unavoidable breaks as far as the first of April but Now I think that I will have to discontinue them.

You asked me to send you any news that I might hear. Talking with Mr. Carpenter he tells me that the irrigation project for Payta, backed by Mr. Rorer has been lost; also that Mr. McCune has been having a hard time with the President in regard to the Ucayali concession. For some reason the President is also holding up the transfer of the concession to the Crawford Syndicate. He has made the statement, however, that he would approve it if the technicalities are removed. Mr. McCune is now working on that. Engineers are ready to leave New York if the Crawford Syndicate gets control. The opinion is favorable among the Americans about it.

The favor that President Billinghurst had when he entered office is waning badly. Mr. Carpenter puts it this way, saying the President catered to the working people, granted them many things, retained their favor as long as he gave all their requests in the matter of short hours and large pay, helped labor unions and so forth. Quite naturally the time came when a line had to be drawn and when the working people found that they were being refused some things they immediately turned on their former favorite. So it is that President Billinghurst can trust no one in his cabinet circle for he never had the favor of the aristocrats and has forfeited the regard of the common people. He is in a hard predicament and we feel here that the failure of this nitrate concession will make it harder for him yet, for it will touch the pride of the Peruvians to be laughed at by the Chileans.

This is a long letter but I have found it hard to stop when once I got started. Hardy and I always found that we had a common difficulty in winding off the conversation in camp and I guess that it has been transferred to my letter-writing. Marcos and Luis are still with us and I think that they will ask to stay to the end. Both are as stout as can be and Marcos especially seems to be happier than ever. He never looks at me but what he laughs and I've been wondering where the humorous part came in; now, for instance did he always laugh when he looked your way?

With best wishes to you,

Yours sincerely,

E.I. du Pont de Nemours Powder Co.
Lima, Peru
c/o Milne & Company. powder co.

(s) Joseph Little.

The Peruvian Expedition of 1912.

Hiram Bingham, Director

April 26, 1913.

My dear Little;

Many thanks for your long and interesting letter
of February 25. You know how deeply concerned I am in everything
that takes place in Peru, and so you can readily appreciate with
what interest I read everything that you write about local con-
ditions.

Your friend, Mr. Laubscher, called to see me the
other day and inquired after you. He said that he had written
you some time ago but had received no reply.

The National Geographic Magazine for March is just
out; the April number will contain our report. If you will send
me the names and addresses of ten people to whom you would like
them sent, we shall be glad to do so.

There is only one word of caution that I feel dis-
posed to inflict upon you. Don't ever let your surroundings in
Latin America affect your ideals of work and faithfulness to
duty. I have noticed over and over again in South America a
spirit of carelessness towards one's employers and lack of loy-
alty. It is extremely difficult to maintain one's New England
sense of conscientious attention to details and everlasting hustle
when one is surrounded by such laziness and easy going ways as
are prevalent in many parts of South America. It may not be that
you will be troubled with anything of that kind in your present
position, but I wanted to put you on your guard against it, for
I have seen so many good men get slack owing to the influence
of their surroundings.

I am sorry to hear of the death of Enrique Santos.
He was never very strong and had a cough when he worked for me.
I presume that his lungs had been affected for a long time.

Thank you for your record of the meteorological
observations taken on the trip from Cuzco. This I am turning
over to Professor Gregory.

I am glad that you are keeping up your scientific
work of taking observations and collecting specimens and infor-
mation. This is all good stuff and I am delighted to hear about it.

81.

Under the auspices of
Yale University and the National Geographic Society.

Hiram Bingham, Director

Drawer A, Yale Station
New Haven, Conn.

May 2, 1913.

Dear Little;

The preliminary report of the Expedition is being
printed as the April number of the National Geographic Magazine.
It occupies the entire number and contains about one hundred
and seventy pages and over two hundred and twenty-five pictures,
besides maps and drawings.

It has been decided to allow each member of the Ex-
pedition ten free copies and we shall be glad to mail them to
any addresses that may be furnished to us or to send them all
directly to you. Extra copies, if ordered in time, can be sec-
ured at regular price of twenty-five cents per copy which is
less than the actual cost of publishing.

It may interest you to know that with the magazine
goes a supplement consisting of a panoramic view of Macchu
Picchu about eighteen inches in length. The expense of getting
out this supplement, some $1600, has been met by the National
Geographic Society.

Will you kindly let me know at your earliest con-
venience what disposition you wish made of your copies? They
ought to ready for delivery in about two weeks.

Mr. Joseph P. Little
Care of Milne & Cia
Lima, Peru.

82.

I know that there are a good many pictographic rocks in the region where you are located. It would be a splendid thing if you could secure a route map of that country with the location of all such rocks. This would be a great help to anyone who had to go there and study the matter. I shall be very glad to have pictures of any of these rocks, as I have already quite a collection and hope to prepare an article on South American pictographs some time in the near future.

You are quite right that it would be a splendid idea for you to write a description of the work from the beginning, following the development and all transformations that take place. This will make interesting reading and the result would certainly warrant the trouble.

Indeed your typewriting is much improved over the specimens you turned in a year ago. I am glad to hear that you are studying shorthand. Plug at it hard and make yourself the most useful man that Mr. Carpenter has ever had anything to do with. Also continue to plug hard at Spanish. I believe that your future as far as the duPont company is concerned depends on three things; first, your character and reputation as a hard and conscientious worker; second, your mastery of the Spanish language; third, your ability to pick up information and qualifications that may be of use to the company, such as shorthand, bookkeeping, typewriting, etc., etc., etc.

Mr. Joseph P. Little
Milne & Cia.
Lima, Peru.

Hiram Bingham, Director

May 19, 1913,

My dear Little;

Thank you for your long and very interesting letter and for the negatives that have been safely received and the photographs of the pictographic rock, which I am delighted to have. I approve of your idea in regard to your own negatives and you need not hesitate to use our films for any purpose that comes along with the understanding that when they are used up and you buy some on your own responsibility, you will send those also giving us the negatives that you take while in South America for our collection. This I am sure will redound greatly to the advantage of the University.

Now in regard to the fossils; they had better be sent to W.B.Grace & Company in Lima. Grace & Company will forward them to us free of charge if they are marked for me, South American Department, Yale University. It might be a good idea to write direct to Mr. A.C.Ballen about this and send me a copy of the letter so that I could follow it up if they did not arrive. If you can send a map with the places marked on it, that will greatly enhance the value of the fossils. It is most important to know the altitude of the location from which they were taken.

If Mr. Carpenter gives you a chance to continue with the duPont Company I should certainly accept it. I had a talk in New York day before yesterday with two other members of the company and I think they are interested in you and desirous to push you ahead just as fast as you can make good. My advice to you is to be unremitting in study. The only thing that can eventually keep you back is a lack of knowledge and ability. This is the time to gain these things. You have gotten a good start with a fine company, have made a good impression and have attracted the attention of some of the head men in the company. It is really all up to you now. Unremitting labor, careful attention to details, the acquisition of far more knowledge than they have any right to expect you to have, and the ability to use it when the occasion arises will spell success for you in the future. It speaks well for you that they want to continue you, although they will have to let go many of the people that they were using in Southern Peru.

84.

Many thanks for your news. I presume Hardy keeps
you posted as to affairs here. The revolution has struck the
University and we had a far different Tap Day from what anyone
has seen these twenty-five years.

to remain

With kindest regards and best wishes, believe me

Lima, Peru

June 5, 1913.

Professor Hiram Bingham
Yale University
New Haven, Conn.

Dear Sir;

At last I am in Lima and mighty good it seems to be here
and have a little relaxation. Instead of those healthy camp
hours in the pampa, Derr and I have regularly accepted every
invitation to stay up into the morning hours. Most of the time
is, of course, spent in the British Club and I have met many of
the members whom I like. Mesrrs. Rogers, Bird, Kingsmill,
Babbit and others have inquired for and wished to be remembered
to you.

You probably know that Mr. Carpenter is in the
States at the present time and as yet has no definite plans of
his own in regard to resuming operations for the government or
the company in South America. Mr. Derr has been left to pre-
sent our accounts to the government here and at about the end of two
weeks should be ready to sail for home also. With conditions
as they are at the present time it has seemed best to me to
accept Mr. Kingsmill's offer to go to Morococha in his employ.
I met him personally at the club a few nights ago and he con-
firmed the offer that he made you for me. I shall go with him
at twenty-five pounds per month and board and room. Although
in my last letter I expressed the desire to see a little of
Chile I do not feel in the least dissappointed and am rather
looking forward to finding out how a great mining company is
conducted. I think it will be another experience well worth
while in my South America travels and also (for me rather im-
portant) it will be a place where the social life will not be
heavy.

Two letters from you arrived together dated
April 26 and May 2. Thank you for the notice in regard to the
copies of the expedition's report which are at my disposal.
I would like to have one copy sent to each of the following
addresses;-

Miss Edith Little, Y.M.C.A., Howard Street, Springfield, Mass.
Mr. Herman Little, Care of Miss Little.
Mr. Payson Little, Dalton, Mass.
Mr. Alonzo Little, Columbia, Conn.
Mrs. William B. Clarke, Columbia, Conn.
Mr. Harry C. Folsom, Danbury High School, Danbury, Conn.
Mr. Charles Ricketts, Monson, Mass.
Mr. O. Ellsworth Farnham, 14 Hancock Street, Westfield, Mass.
Miss Beulah Manning, South Manchester, Conn.
Mr. Joseph Little, Morococha Mining Co., Morococha, Peru.

Besides these copies I would appreciate it if you would turn

86.

over to Paul Hardy at some convenient time five more copies to hold for me. He will be able to pay you I think as he has access to my accounts.

You cannot write to me too strongly about yielding to lax conditions of life in this country. They do exert such an insinuating influence that it is only when one stops to think that he realizes how they are always at his elbow and ready to enter his life. I can see them plainly but believe me when I say that it is much harder to cut them out than at home. Such words as your's help a fellow a lot for they bring back with a jolt the realization that some day he will return to the States and better conditions.

I wrote you last time that I would like to send you a box of specimens but was at a loss as to how to send it. I think that that difficulty has been solved for Mr. Derr says that he will take charge of it from Lima to New York and as he knows all the things that are in it he will be able to meet any questions that arise. Aside from the smaller specimens I have put in a block about one foot square which has on it a very fair specimen of the figures which are frequently found on the Caraveli pampas and of which I have spoken before. I shall enclose a separate paper with a description of its location and the number of its photograph which I took when the rock was in its natural position. I hope that it goes through all right.

In regard to affairs here and the current gossip there are a few things that are of interest. Mr. McCune's concession is as bad off as before, the President holding off on technicalities. Mr. Lesser, who is head of the borax trust in South America, states that the President would never let the concession go through as he was very bitter about it and opposed it personally. This is inside dope, of course, but Mr. Lesser is on very good terms with the President and heard this from the President. Mr. Lesser himself has just received an important concession to establish & borax property for the trust in the neighborhood of Arequipa. I think that work will proceed shortly. The reason for the entrance into Peru from Chile he bases on the ever growing scarcity of labor and its high cost on the Chilean pampas. In the nitrate business of Peru the President is at present negotiating with Mr. Lomax, our previous engineer in Caraveli, to send another expedition in the south to continue cateos for nitrate. This expedition will be a government one. It is a political move on the President's part and by a judicial slowness he can drag the affair along until he is out of office and thus shift the blame for the failure on another administration. Mr. Derr is satisfied that there is no nitrate there such as exists in Chile.

Mr. Guthrie of Milne & Cia dined with us the other evening and we talked a bit about Bolivia for he has travelled there for several months. He told us that he had spent most of his time in the great Bolivian Chaco. He considered it a great

87.

undeveloped country with immense possibilities for stock and grain. Land is cheap and well watered by numerous rivers and easily obtainable. The climate is much better than Peru, being healthy and agreeable. The point of interest was his remark that he thought that the chances of success for a young man in the Chaco were superior to Peru and that he would unhesitatingly take a chance there if he were younger and not tied up in business. He upheld his argument by reason of the Chaco being an agricultural land while in Peru all progress must be based on mining. He has purchased land there. To make a success of it as a speculation he considers that $4000 gold is a minimum amount with which to enter the country for until the railroads entered more fully the land would have to lie fallow. The whole question resolves itself into the need of the world for more and more food sections. Another thing that may interest you is his opinion as a business man that Bolivia will enjoy a boom under the administration of Senor Montes, the entering president of that country, whom he considers above the average for South American statesmen.

Perhaps you have read articles on the Putomsyo question but have not run across these that I enclose. They explain themselves as being written to give a square deal. I would only add that coming from an English newspaper at this time that they have aroused quite a bit of comment in the British colony, with which I can hardly agree for I think that both sides should have a say in the matter.

When I was walking home one evening a man thrust the enclosed article on Tacna and Arica into my hands. They have been entirely distributed in the night which only makes the glowing phrases of patriotism and bravery seem all the more contemptible and characteristic of this nation. On reliable information I have heard that the President is the backer and responsible for its distribution.

At the present time you have two ardent supporters in Mr. Derr and myself for your work in the diplomatic service. We make no further statements than those found in my notes which we felt might as well be read by you too. I know little about diplomatic etiquette but there are other types of course!

Well, I will ring off. My next letter will be from above the clouds. Although I get a bit homesick every so often you can bet your bottom dollar that I am having a good time, enjoying the work and will stick to it until I can return and better decide what my future will be.

Very sincerely yours and with best wishes,

(s) Joseph Little.

Address

Morococha Mining Company,
Peru, S.A.

September 7, 1913

Morococha, Peru.

Getting this letter off to you is one of the first things that I have done since returning to Morococha and it seems good to feel that at least one letter to the States is ready. Work is quite strenuous and in the evnings the light is so poor that I do not like to work on account of eye sight.

In this letter I am enclosing the bill of lading which has reached me after considerable delay. Perhaps you have one also. By the same mail I will send a parcel containing the following things; -

1. One map of the district covered by the duPont concession, Raimondi's Foja No. 28, in which I have endeavored to locate the principal places of which I have written you in other letters.

2. One film book of photographs Nos. 51L--100L.

3. One envelope of miscellaneous photographs by Ralph Derr.

4. One essay that I have written at odd moments describing a few of the ruins near Caravelli.

5. A few sheets of weather observations taken in Camp #1. I am sorry that these are not more complete but perhaps something can be made of them.

I wrote the essay just after I had returned from Lima where I had been ill. Since then I have been working every day in the mines and trying to learn a little of the mining business. Mr. Kingsmill placed me in the sampling department for a start, which is considered by everybody to be the best place to start learning. Another fellow and I have to take samples from every place in the mines and in this way become acquainted with all the veins, metals, waste material, men and general conditions. I have enjoyed the work so far although I will admit that the first time I went down some of the ropes hand over hand into the darkness below that I longed for a quiet chair in some cozy library. That is all over now and I am beginning to have the real miner's attitude that it is a good job in spite of all the hard work. Perhaps I will even get the fever and dream of lucky strikes.

The only thing that bothers me is the altitude and weather. We work each day at an altitude of fifteen thousand feet and it is rainy or snowy about half of the time. The combination makes it almost impossible to keep free from coughs and colds. So far I have had several, being more subject to them now after the attack of pneumonia. I shall stay as long as possible without injuring my health but do not feel that I should stay longer.

89

We have good American food and comfortable rooms.
A club room also contains a piano, home papers, victrola and
such things.

I am pretty well behind in regard to South Amer-
ican affairs. The only thing I have heard about is a severe earth-
quake that struck the southern part of Peru two or three weeks
ago.

The center of the disturbance appears to have been
in the immediate vicinity of the nitrate camp because the towns
of Atico and Caraveli were reported as completely destroyed while
Chala was partially ruined. Several persons were killed.

Last Sunday I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Frank,
the author of "Zone Policeman' 88". At present he is on a walking
trip from Mexico to Buenos Aires, via Quito, Lima, Cuzco, La Paz
and Sucre. He intends to publish a book about the trip when he
returns home. Among other things he told me that after reading
your account of the 1912 Expedition in the National Geographic
Magazine that he would visit Macchu Picchu if possible. Between
Quito and Lima he very nearly lost his life in a severe attack of
dysentery.

Perhaps you would be interested to know that the
duPont Company sold all the mules of their outfit to Mr. Kings-
mill so that I still have the pleasure of seeing my old friends
each day.

If Hardy has returned to the university when this
reaches you, please tell him that he is slated for the next week's
mail and a good long letter at that.

With best wishes
Very sincerely yours,

(s) Joseph P. Little

C/o Morococha Mining Company
Morococha.

YALE UNIVERSITY
New Haven, Connecticut

90,

Hiram Bingham.

September 30, 1913.

My dear Little;

I was extremely interested in your letters of
June 5 and August 3, although my delay in answering them may
seem proof to the contrary. I spent nearly two months abroad this
summer, one of my chief objects being to study the Peruvian
collections in the various museums of Europe. When I came
back I found an unconscionable amount of work piled up that
had to be done as soon as possible. I am only just beginning to
see daylight again.

The account of your experience with Ralph Derr and
the American Minister is most interesting. It must be grati-
fying to you to know that the gentleman with whom you and Derr
had such an unpleasant experience is out of a job. There were
a good many accounts against him.

Your request that copies of the Expedition Report
be sent to the list of names was attended to as soon as your let-
ter reached this office last June. I have recently delivered to
Paul Hardy the five other copies for which he has paid as
you requested.

I am distressed to hear of your serious ill-
ness. While illnesses come sometimes out of a clear sky I
am afraid that you helped yours along by having too good a
time in Lima just before you went to Morococha. The tempt-
ation is terribly strong when one has been in the wilderness
for several months and finds one's self in a gay little capi-
tal like Lima to make a sudden change and quoting from your
letter "instead of those healthy camp hours in the pampa, Derr
and I have regularly accepted every invitation to stay up
into the morning hours". It does tax a man's vitality. It
is an awfully good thing not to do. At the same time, I know
from experience that it is an awfully hard thing not to do.
However, I am delighted that you got through your illness and
at last accounts were able to do your job. It was a pretty
tough welcome to Morococha.

The box of specimens arrived all right and I am await-
ing with interest the next book of negatives with numbers 51L
to 100L which, you say, gives the pictures of Indio Viejo.

I trust this letter will find you in good vigorous health and that you are enjoying your work with Mr. Kingsmill. Please give him my best personal wishes, and write me

fully about your job. You know I am interested in all the details. We take the "West Coast Leader" here, so we keep more or less up-to-date with Peruvian news, but I should like to get inside information about how things are going, for I know that lots of things happen which are not chronicled in the newspapers.

Joseph P. Little, Esq.
Morococha Mining Company,
Lima, Peru.

P.S. If you get hold of any fossils near Morococha, be sure and keep us in mind. We were delighted with those you sent from Southern Peru.

YALE UNIVERSITY
New Haven, Connecticut.

92.

Hiram Bingham.

October 6, 1913.

My dear Little;

I have just finished reading over your weather reports and have read with great interest your article on the ruins in the Caraveli Valley. I like it so much that I am going to see if we cannot get it published. I shall edit out the part relating to nitrates and anything else that seems to me irrelevant, but the description of the archeology is decidedly worth publishing. I presume you will have no objection. I read the article with great interest. I congratulate you on turning out such a good piece of work. If you get a chance to do anything similar in the region where you now are, don't hesitate to do it. You have a very readable style and you ought to keep your hand in practice.

I wrote you a long letter a few days ago, so I will not take up more of your time now.

I am sending you by mail a copy of my little book on the Monroe Doctrine with which I think you will find some points of agreement.

With kind regards, believe me to be

Hiram Bingham.

October 29, 1913.

Dear Little;

I have just heard from Mr. Carpenter that he is about
to start for Europe and then Buenos Aires and Chile. He ex-
pects to reach Valparaiso about New Years. His address is
Castilla 1422, Valparaiso, Chile.

"I expect to open negotiations for nitrate lands,"
he says, "which may possible result in business of considerable
importance. Am trying to steal a man for private secretary from
the duPont oficina in Taltal, but would prefer a man with Little's
education if he could take dictation. I of course would not ask him
to leave a position I had secured for him, but he might keep me post-
ed in case he wishes sometime to make a change."

I think you probably would enjoy the work with Mr.
Carpenter better than the high altitude where you are now located.
The only question is how long it would take you to learn dictation.

Joesph P. Little
Morococha Mining Company
Morococha, Peru.

November 14, 1913.

Morococha, Peru.

Dear Sir;

Within the last two weeks I have received two letters from you dated September 30 and Oct. 6 respectively. I also wish to thank you for the bound copy of your "Monroe Doctrine" which I have read with great interest and with which I can honestly say that I agree. The longer one lives here the more clearly he sees the force of your arguments.

I am glad that the papers I sent you arrived safely and that you were pleased with the short essay on those ruins near Caravelli. If you think that they are worth putting in print, nothing would please me more and any changes you care to make will be agreeable to me. However, as your old pupil, I want to say that your approbation comes first with me.

During the past weeks work has continued as usual and I have enjoyed it all with the one exception of the climate which is a regular mixture of rain, snow and hail with a ray or two of sunshine. I have kept fairly well and feel that the effects of the pneumonia is gradually wearing off.

In regard to doing any amateur scientific work I will try and do whatever comes to my notice. At the present season it is practically impossible, or I should say too disagreeable to go out much on Sundays on account of the rains. There is an old Spanish place near here owned by the company called Puquara, which was built by Pizarro probably to mine silver. His original deeds are at present in the possession of the company. No work is done there now.

Every six months or so we have a vacation. In the rainy season the fellows go to Lima but in the winter they generally go inside on horseback trips. If I stay here my winter trip would come in July and I have thought some of going down to Huanuco and Huanuco Viejo. These ruins are quite well known but I would like to see them. It would only be two or three days on horseback from Cerro de Pasco. Do you know anything of these places and are they worth seeing?

If you are the kind that cares for compliments I can send on a few by saying that every fellow in camp has borrowed my copy.

of the Expedition's report and that I have answered about you and
your work until I have acquired a set speech on the subject.

Mr. Kingsmill sends his regards to you and hopes that
you are well.

With best wishes,

Sincerely yours,

(s) Joseph Little.

Hiram Bingham.

December 3, 1913.

Dear Little;

It was a pleasure to get your letter of November 14 and hear that your health continues good.

I do not wonder that you find it more agreeable to take a good rest on Sunday rather than go prowling around for antiquities. You would find the ruins of Huanuco and Huanuco Viejo very interesting and I hope that you can get some photographs of them. They have been described by Reginald Enock in the "Geographical Journal". The article on the ruins of Huanuco Viejo was reprinted as chapter XXII of his book on the "Andes and the Amazon". If you go, be sure and take sufficient surveying apparatus with you, something in the nature of a prismatic compass and steel tape, so as to have a plan of the ruins and write an article on them describing them as carefully as you can. Even though they have been described before, it is always advisable to have the accounts of other travelers, and I think that you should have no trouble in getting it printed.

I am glad that you have no objections to having the essay on the ruins near Caraveli printed and I hope to arrange for it before long.

With kind regards to Mr. Kingsmill, believe me to

Faith

Remain faithfully yours,

(s) Hiram Bingham.

Joseph P. Little, Esq.
Morococha Mining Co,pany
Morococha, Peru.

98

SUN GOD OF CARAVELI.

Hiding the desert of Caraveli
O'er Incan trails of mystery
We felt the hour that heralds night
Creep up our burning hills of sand,
Painting with brilliant rainbow wand
Vast pageants astounding our sight.

Lavish spirits wield fiery beams,
Spraying glorious, golden streams
Killing noonday colors so dull.
Canyon walls are tinged with red,
Forming a surging color bed
For Corapuna's thrice crowned head-
Brushed with dying sun-shafts of gold-
Waiting night's shadows to enfold.

Kneel to this God whose stains of wine
Momently gilding Hell divine,
Crowns this land with a Master's sign,
Creating wondrous symphony
O'er Incan trails of mystery.

Joseph P. Little.

99.

DESERT RUINS NEAR CARAVELI, PERU.

MAY 1913.

The splendid ruins of Macchu Picchu, uncovered by the Yale - National Geographic Peruvian Macchu Picchu Expedition of 1912 aroused my deepest interest in the early history of Peru, whether Inca or Pre-Inca. When that expedition closed in November I took a long pack-trip in December over the great Andean Cordillera from Cuzco to Caraveli, situated on the eastern edge of the Southern Desert of Peru. During its duration of thirty days I sought eagerly for signs of old ruins and rumors of Inca habitations. Aside from the comparatively well known tambos at Limatambo I found none and the immediate area of Caraveli yielded no evidence of antiquity.

I spent the succeeding three months inside the hot and arid Pacific Coastal Desert searching for nitrate fields with a geological party which covered one thousand square miles of the sandy pampas which comprise it at an elevation of four to six thousand feet.

I found to my surprise that its dry river bottoms and quebrada walls as well as silent hill tops submitted proofs that in centuries gone by a crude and primitive race dwelt among cultivated fields where today a desolate land has preserved for generations secrets well worth investigation. I will present a few of these facts, which came to my personal notice even though in a casual and hurried manner.

The most conclusive proof of an older civilization lay in the scattered walls of several ruined villages situated beside the dry bed of the Caravlei River as it flows in a southwesterly direction. I travelled this route twice and the second time I examined them and took notes for about four hours.

A word about the present village of Caraveli seems imperative if one speculates on the manner of life in these older areas. Today's town lies in a narrow river valley of the same name. On each side sheer walls of rock and talus rise three thousand feet high and then spread out into great distances of uninhabited mountain pampas. One or two cliff-hanging trails reach these pampas for access north and east while the river valley presents a rocky path south and west. The three thousand people who live in and about Caraveli depend upon one factor-water. Down from the snow fields of the Andes flow several mountain streams which unite a few miles above Caraveli to form a fairly respectable river twenty feet wide and one foot deep. Eight miles below the city plaza the river

100

river bed is absolutely dry. Not a bit of water is to be found. It is possible of course that an underground river exists from this point south. Indeed, the presence of a thick fringe of scrub tree growth continuing down the dry bed for many leagues in the midst of a sandy desert points rather positively to the existence of moisture underneath the surface, However that may be, the fact remains that the town of Caraveli, man, woman and child is dependent on irrigation and most of its water goes for that purpose. All land sales and leases of land are made with reference to water rights from this one stream and form the most important cause for litigation among the people. It serves for household purposes, sewerage facilities and land culture combined. As regards the latter, nearly all tropical and semi-tropical fruits are grown such as figs, oranges, bananas, paltas, mangoes, chiromoyas, pears, apples, peaches, plums and grapes. Alfalfa is the principal crop but corn and oats are grown in smaller quantities.

Although the inhabitants of Caraveli are practically self-supporting and live within a strip of profuse vegetation which may be one mile wide and twelve miles long, yet a too strong emphasis on their one lone water supply cannot be made. Since the rainfall approaches zero the withdrawal of the stream on a given night would result in a forced exodus the next morning, leaving the present fertile oasis to be swallowed up by the encroaching desert. The demarcation line between absolute barrenness, although potentially splendid agricultural land of the finest kind, is as sharp as the black and white contrast of a Japanese nature sketch.

With this brief introduction to the physical surroundings of present day Caraveli let us start upon our trip. At quarter to nine one clear morning I skirted the outlying houses of the town and immediately picked up the desert trail. Despite the intense tropical heat the ride was interesting from the outset. For an hour the left hand side presented its acres of irrigated fields, mud houses and fruit trees; on the right sandy volcanic hills culminated in the pair of locally famed mountains with the suggestive names of Indio Viejo and India Vieja (Old Indian Man and Old Indian Woman).

By ten o'clock the new and the old civilizations began to change places. At this hour I reached a large grape finca situated on the south side of a dry and deep quebrada which joins the Caraveli River. The mouth of the quebrada takes the form of a very rocky, though level, alluvial fan with a quarter mile width. The remains of many old stone walls are visible which divide the alluvial fan into field plots 20' X 30' and 40 X 60'. Vegetation is limited to hardy scrub trees. The entire extent of these old fields is overlooked by some sixty houses dotting a little hill which rises on the southern side. These are built of rough uncut cobblestones and are extremely crude. The roofs have disappeared in all cases although the finding of small quantities of pacha grass and the

101,

ends of bamboo poles super-imposed on some of the upright house-
walls would make it appear probable that these two articles were
used for roof construction in a manner similar to that in most
Peruvian towns today.

A second group of ruins were passed half an hour
later although this time they were more scattered and partook
much less of the nature of a village. Modern irrigation ceased
here and the Caraveli River disappeared with the dry bed con-
tinuing to be marked by the presence of the afore-mentioned
scrub and thorn trees. The sunken river bed runs through a plain,
which is one quarter of a mile wide, and 15' X 20' below the level
of the old fields and ruined village.

Gradually the river valley contracts to a width of
one hundred and fifty yards with steep granite walls rising to
a height of four hundred feet suggesting a miniature canyon. At
irregular intervals carvings and pictographs are seen up on the
solid cliffs or on large loose boulders. In many places they
are just visible to the naked eye and appear to be inaccessible.
The existence of such boulders lying on talus slopes with dis-
figured carvings upon them suggests the thought that once they
formed a part of higher accessible pictographs that natural eros-
ive action, whether wind or frost, broke apart. In general the
inscriptions take the form of llamas, men, snakes and insects,
with a variation of squares and circles.

The ragged cliffs of this canyon present a rather
peculiar form of the older civilization that flourished in this
area. The walls on the east side and many on the west are cov-
ered with small rock terraces. They are constructed of angu-
lar talus rocks from the cliffs themselves and are impossible
to reach in many cases. It is hard to analize their exact pur-
pose, perched high above any chance of land culture even by use
of asequias. I climbed up to two of them and found that they en-
closed a level space sufficient for two or three men to remain
in comfort. The surface of the enclosure was of rough stones and
dirt. Only three reasons occur to me for their existence. First,
it is possible that huts or cliff houses were built there although
the difficulty of supplying them and the confined building space
argue against it. Second, some of these terraces occur in success-
ive steps at points where a vein or fault is most prominent in the
cliff and therefore they may have been used for surface extract-
tion of ore. This theory explains only a part of them, however.
Third, these cliffs mark the narrowest part of the Caraveli Valley
for a long distance. Active villages near here would presuppose
a fair amount of water, none of which exists today. Assuming
that the Caraveli River flowed through the narrows at that time
and supplied their water needs then the old north and south road
would be forced quite close to either the east or west cliff.
Since an enemy's successful flank movement through the desert
would be attended with great logistic difficulties this canyon

102

provides a natural strategic position and the little terraces
on the cliffs would make admirable vantage points for a defending
force to roll down boulders or shoot weapons at an advancing army.

As the valley widens below The Narrows one finds
another small village situated on both banks of a small quebra-
da. Larger terraces than those on the canyon cliffs are frequent
with many being used as the back wall for huts. Scattered about
the houses are numerous bits of pots and sherds. Such markings
as distinguish the pottery of Cuzco and Nasca were absent and
both the inside and outside finish was quite crude and rough by
comparison.

After a slow trot for three quarters of an hour I
reached the largest ruined village on the southern perimeter
of Caraveli. It has three distinct sections each one of which
appears upon a separate knoll jutting out at right angles from
the main eastern quebrada wall of the Caraveli Valley. The actual
extent of the entire village is about six hundred yards long and
and one hundred yards wide. The rear of the town is protected
by an abrupt rise of the valley wall for four hundred feet.
A sandy plain one half mile wide fronts this location on the
western side of which, the sunken river bed, filled with thorn
trees, lies fifteen feet lower. The level plain is divided into
50' X 60' rectangular plots by regular rows of stones which appear
to be ancient field boundaries. Very few rock and stones lie
in the fields themselves, which from their appearance and sit-
uation once formed the basis for the town's food supply. If one
visualizes the plain with irrigated crops of alfalfa and fruit trees
the view from the village hills would present a second, or rather
first Caraveli such as we know today.

For clarity I shall refer to the southern knoll as
Section I; the middle division as SectionII; and the houses on
the northern hill as SectionIII.

In Section I at least eighty stone foundations and house
walls still exist. The dimensions of these houses vary from
6' X 10' to 20' X 30'. For the first time we notice an improve-
ment over the unfaced cobblestone structures of the smaller towns
upstream, for here some stones are hewn on one face. At least half
of the houses are circular. Arches or indications of them are
not visible. The town cannot boast of a roof to its head, al-
though here again slight traces of pacha grass and bamboo poles
are to be found on top of some of the foundations. The stones used
in the construction of the house walls show no particular variety
except those used in the doorways of the larger houses. These are
soft, white volcanic blocks sized about 1' X 3' X 8" and faced on
all sides. They resemble light limestone in appearance.

The majority of houses contained a ground hole and
lined with stones between which a mud cement is found. The care

103.

107.

and skill shown in the placement of these stones was markedly superior to that shown in the housewalls but whether this was due to the fact that the holes, sunken as they were in the ground, have been unexposed to the ravages of wind and age is not clear. Many of the holes are now filled with drifted sand but those that are clear of such deposits vary in size from 1' -3' wide at the top and 3' - 6' wide at the bottom, with a maximum depth of five feet. Maiz kernels were on the bottom of several holes and indicate that they were used for food storage, a view supported by local tales. One other thing in connection with them presents an interesting problem. Human bones were within the walls of several houses and often near the edge of the hole. Skulls were the most numerous, about fifteen being seen in all three sections. They were also the best preserved, although ribs, shin bones, thigh bones and many others, the names of which are unknown to me, were in relatively good shape. The bones were not scattered about pro-miscuously for what were apparently the remains of one body would lie together underneath one or two pieces of roughly woven cloth. The first impression that I had, which still remains to a great degree, was that these bodies had been buried in the holes by the original inhabitants and later exhumed by vandals in search of buried treasure, reports of which abound in the Caraveli district.

The effect of winds and climatic conditions upon bone preservation were clearly evident. In this part of the southern desert rain falls with great rarity. During my four and one half months stay, from January 1 to May 15th and including the rainy season, rain fell perhaps three times and never in more than a misty drizzle of a few hours duration. On the other hand dry south-westerly winds blow with steady force each afternoon. Consequently bones show remarkable preservation despite their long years of exposure. Several of the skulls were fairly perfect with ten or twelve teeth still in place. They were very light, dry and clean to the touch. One found, however, that they were fragile and would crumble to powder with little pressure if they were handled. This reason prevented me from attempting to carry away any specimens since I had no special packing equipment.

### A description of Section I duplicates Sections II and III as regards buildings, holes, skeletons and shards. Section II has perhaps 90 houses and Section III one hundred and forty. Street locations have been given scant attention in any section for they are mostly but narrow paths winding here and there with much irregularity.

Among several objects which deserve special mention is one hut which has a rude projecting stone niche about one foot long, nor did I see any others like it. Another house stood out with a four-stone fireplace. Some of the better homes obtained greater privacy by creating two compartments with a central dividing wall. A broken grain mortar of well polished porphyry lay in one section. It was 12" X 8" X 12". On a separate hill to the north of section three lie the remains of several

104.

huts. Near them are the remnants of circular stone rings one
layer high and four feet in diameter. The peculiar thing re-
garding these rings is the fact that they are found, with
varying diameters, on the top of nearly every high hill in
the surrounding country for an area of at least seventy square
miles to the south and west. The several that I examined con-
tained no evidence of ashes or religious rites. The thought that
they might have some astronomical significance seemed more
logical.

Rock carvings are found similar to those in evidence
at The Narrows. Several boulders have roughly carved snakes
in back of Section II and across the valley beyond the sunken
river bed is a small ravine, the walls of which are covered
with photographs of men, animals, snakes and insects for about
three hundred consecutive square feet.

Such are the meagre traces of a people who once lived
in Caraveli Valley. The ruins as a whole are primitive and rel-
atively uninteresting after the magnificent ruins of Cuzco and
Macchu Picchu. Comparisons made between these cobblestone
houses and the carefully fitted granite palaces and temples of
the Incas end in futility. Nor can one relate the miles of gar-
den terraces which front the Urubamba River in the Valley of
Yucay with the defensive types found in The Narrows. The most
impressive fact about these ancient villages is the surrounding
desert, barren to our eye but concealing within its desolation
chemicals that only need water to create verdure. How many decades
have passed since changing conditions rendered these towns un-
inhabitable? How many centuries have desert winds attempted to
overthrow them since the exodus took place? While an ironclad
answer cannot be given to these questions I believe the solutions
to them can be directly related to deprivation of water supply.
If one's imagination reactivates the sunken river so that it
flows down into the desert with a volume sufficient to irrigate
the plain lying west of the village, then the picture evolves
of several thousand people living here in a state of low civiliz-
ation. The period of culture would more likely be Pre-Inca than
Inca.

Joseph P. Little.

August 31, 1913
Morococha, Peru.

105

Lima, Peru, S.A.
June 5, 1913.

Location of old carvings and photographs in
the Caraveli pampas from which the stone was taken that
Joseph P. Little sent to Professor Hiram Bingham, Yale
University, June 13, 1913. See attached letter June 15, 1913.

The carvings lie in Indio Viejo Quebrada, so named from
having its source at the base of Cerro Indio Viejo, one of the
most prominent landmarks in the vicinity of Caraveli. The pos-
ition of the carvings is fairly inaccessible but can be approached
from two good vantage points to my knowledge. First, one can
start from a trail at Caraveli that is well-known, go to the
source of the quebrada and then follow the quebrada's bed for
about fifteen miles until the carvings are reached. Second,
the route which I followed is to start from Pampa San Carlos,
a small pampa midway between Caraveli and Atico, follow a
small but well defined trail that runs up the second dry river
as one travels from Atico and which runs at about 310 degrees
angle to the top of the ridge which encircles the pampa. Des-
cending this ridge the trail enters another dry gulch which it
follows for about two miles. At any point where the gulch has
levelled itself fairly level, turn to the right and cross a
level stretch of about a mile. No distinct trail exists at the
present time but one cannot help, if he keeps a westerly course
at this point, from striking Indio Viejo. (I should say here that
many Indians call this the true Quebrada Indio Viejo while others
claim that it lies a thirty minutes ride farther on.) Be that
as it may, I know of only two points where one can descend to
the quebrada floor for several miles and it is necessary to ride
along the edge until these are found. I know of no other way
to direct a trail except that one heap of stones marks a turn
of the trail. In this trail Quebrada carvings are scattered up
and down for a distance of two miles from the point of the trail's
entrance, The best carvings, however, lie in the quebrada men-
tioned above about thirty minutes ride further on. It is shall-
ower, easy of access. I took many photographs in it.

When I send you filmbook with numbers 51L--100L you will
find that number 61L is the gulch into which one descends from
the San Carlos ridge. Numbers 62L--73L are taken in Quebrada
Indio Viejo as mentioned in this article and numbers 74L--85L
are taken in the quebrada thirty minutes farther on which some
call Indio Viejo. It was here that I took the stone that I sent
you. Specifically, numbers 79L-80L show it where its relation
to the next figure can be seen. Numbers 74L--85L show the side
of the quebrada wall within a distance of fifty yards.

I am told that even better carvings are found at Quebrada
del Toro. This location is two hours farther and I have never
seen them.

(s) Joseph P. Little.

107.

MOROCOCHA MINING CAMP.

I took the morning train of the Central Railroad of Peru for Morococha on June 1, 1913. This road operated from Callao on the seacoast to Huancayo in the interior with a short spur line at Ticlio for Morococha; a hundred miles further on another branch line ran from Oroya to Cerro de Pasco. I was non-chalant about this all day trip even though in one hundred and ten miles to Ticlio it climbed over the highest railroad pass in the world at 15000 feet. Engineering circles considered it a marvel of construction by Alexander Meigs, for in the short mileage to Ticlio it contained scores of switchbacks, tunnels and suspension bridges. After all I had been over similar heights by foot and felt myself well hardened by more than a year of continuous outdoor life.

It was a festive departure at the station as the train filled with a few engineers, Peruvian families and Indians. They carried all sorts of nostrums for warding off siroche through fruits, liquor and medicine. These worked well until the ten thousand level was reached but from then on nearly all the passengers succumbed slowly until the coaches resembled melacholy hospital rooms filled with the nauseas, headaches and groanings of disillusioned travellers. All the gorgeous scenic beauty was ignored. I had no discomfort and at Ticlio changed over to the single coach for Morococha, arriving at the mining camp late in the afternoon.

Instead of enjoying a light dinner and letting my body adjust to the rigors of the camp's altitude of 14600 feet, I made a foolish and nearly fatal mistake by walking over to the common dining room and eating a heavy American meal as a recompense for my light lunch. By midnight I had a terrific attack of siroche, complicated during the next twenty-four hours by a deep chest cold. I was unconscious the next morning and Dr. Shaw, the company's physician, advised my immediate removal to the sea-coast. Patients with highly congested lungs or pneumonia had little chance of recovery in this atmosphere devoid of normal oxygen content. Mr. Kingsmill arranged for a locomotive and caboose to make a run to Bellavista Hospital at Callao. Since he offered a bonus to the train crew I had a wild and record breaking ride down to sea-level. At Bellavista the pneumonia took its usual tiring course, my cure being assisted by two Indian nurses who could not speak English and a French girl who had trouble with my terrible French accent.

While convalescing in Lima I contracted a severe case of malaria and back I went to Bellavista Hospital for another three weeks of alternating chills and fevers. When the latter occurred the nights were filled with outlandish, never-ending dreams. From nine o'clock at night until early morning I was thrown entirely upon my own resources even though the fever

108.

ranged up to 105 degrees. An old-fashioned commode on the opposite side of the room was the highlight of these delirious nights.

On August 1st I broke up my second trip to the mines by a two day stopover at Chosica, a summer resort halfway up. One evening the hotel manager invited me to a fine cock fight which was an open event near the plaza. The cocks were well bred and heavy wagering developed in the last and main event which ended in the usual death fight.

Morococha was a sprawling community of mud coloured adobe houses and shacks. The town merchants and officers were mostly mestizos. Nestling within a curve of forbidding hills about two miles below the town was the little settlement of Tuctu, largely populated by men of the mine's executive staff. The mines themselves were scattered throughout these mountains within a radius of ten miles in a very barren terrain for we were above the timber line. Some conception of the practical difficulties of living and working in these operations is shown by these approximate elevations:

<table><tr><td>The executives living quarters</td><td>14600 feet</td></tr><tr><td>Morococha town and railroad station</td><td>15000 feet</td></tr><tr><td>Copper-silver mines</td><td>15-165000 feet</td></tr><tr><td>Snow line and glaciers</td><td>17000 feet</td></tr></table>

About twenty-five supervisors were housed in adobe dwellings, two men together occupying a sitting room and two bedrooms. We enjoyed a dining room with an American chef who who served as much imported food as was possible, a gathering room equipped for stag parties and ample stables and corrals for horses and mules. The Manager's house was set apart and quite commodious. Our group came from, Canada, United States, England, Germany, Hungary and Peru. Singly of in small groups they had mined or worked in Hungary, China, South Africa, Morocco, Mexico, Philippines, Arizona, Alaska, Venezuela and the Panama Canal Zone. One never could separate fact from fancy as they outdid each other with their yarns and stories. They certainly differed from my friends of New England.

Upon our arrival we were issued Winchester army rifles with plenty of ammunition to keep at bedside. We always wore a visible holster revolver while at work. I had two, a long nosed Colt 45 revolver and stub nosed Colt 38 automatic. On Sunday mornings we enjoyed an hour or two of competitive shooting practice on the company's rifle range. It was necessary to be armed for personal safety while working as well as for any revolutions, two of which occurred while I was there. About one day's notice of an impending crisis would arrive from Lima which would convert our headquarters into an armed camp with everyone on all night alert until news arrived that the government had retained its power. Being always armed seems to give one a certain sense of power and security.

109

Most of these mines were very old and had been worked by the Spaniards as far back as three hundred years. Water seepage made the mines unprofitable to the Peruvian owners and the Haggin interests in the United States had purchased them and were engaged in a complete modernization project. We were the advance guard and until the new machinery arrived we were using the more primitive methods of our predecessors. In general, tunnels were drifted into the mountain-side at levels one hundred feet apart vertically and these in turn were connected with shafts and winzes. Once inside the mine one went from one level to another by sliding down or climbing up one hundred feet of rope hanging from a four by four beam placed across the shaft opening. Going down was ticklish enough but climbing up hand over hand was far worse due to the altitude. We wore the typical carbon headlamps. Both copper and silver contents ran high and were generally found in copper pyrite veins although many large stopes were also developed. The ore was shipped to Croya for refining.

Our largest mine was called San Francisco. Another was called San Geronimo which still retained the vaulted rock barracks where it is related that the Spaniards imprisoned thousands of Indians to work until death released them. At 16500 feet I sampled a strange mine which had a high silver content in a soft clayish formation. Here the drifts followed the veins, twisting about in many directions as well as slanting up and down until one could be completely lost. The old drifts were scarcely four feet high and the ore used to be carried up by Indian boys in twenty-five pound lots. Prior to World War I these old workings had not been completely mapped and explored from fear of the latent gases far inside.

Two twelve hour shifts were used and when working the night shift at the San Francisco we would come out from the inner workings to join the other supervisors before a large fireplace in the temporary mine office. We would make our selection from the pile of raw steaks which our chef sent up from the head-quarters kitchen and broil it to our own taste on the fireplace coals. It always tasted good as your companions unfolded another set of improbable episodes.

The rules concerning strangers in our power plant were very strict for fear of damage by ignorant workmen. The nights were bitterly cold and many wanted to sleep inside it. On my night shifts an old prospector asked me permission to do so. Finally I yielded and he put a blanket on the floor for several nights and enjoyed the warmest kind of slumber. I visited his lodgings in town several times. He had an ancient hair-covered trunk full of beautiful ore specimens of shimmering native silver which he offered to sell me weight for weight with silver pesos. In this manner I obtained a few but did not have the means to purchase his best ones. He maintained that he knew their mother lode down in the head waters of the Amazon and wanted only the underwriting of a thousand dollars to make our fortunes. True or false I never found out but these alluring tales were weighted with wonderful specimens.

110,

Early in September the author Harry A. Frank visited the mines for a few days and I was delighted to see him for he knew my sister Edith, of Springfield, Massachusetts, which was his home town. He was on a walking trip from Mexico City to Buenos with the intention of writing a book on his adventures, for such books were his profession. After leaving Quito, Ecuador, he had lightened his knapsack of various items and very unwisely threw out his medicine kit with them. Soon after, he caught amoebic dysentery and but for the kindly care of a native Indian he would have died on the trail. He had been convalescing in Lima but still looked quite emaciated from the ravages of the disease. We discussed the newly discovered ruins of Macchu Picchu and he agreed to visit them. He reports on his visit to them in his book "Vagabonding Down the Andes", published by Grosset and Dunlap, New York. I have annotated in detail my personal copy of this book. While he colors some of his accounts for the reader's interest, yet, on the whole, his descriptions and historical references are accurate and absorbing.

Most of my friends owned a saddle horse but I preferred the fine saddle-bred macho of Mr. Sundman which had been on the duPont nitrate expedition and now belonged to the mining company. He was my daily companion for months but rejected all my efforts at friendship and remained quite aloof. Whether on the uneven desert or the high and dangerous mountain trails a macho is far safer than a horse. He will not overeat or drink and literally keeps his nose right down to the trail bed. The horse reverses this procedure and is often gazing at the stars in dangerous places.

One shortcut to the San Francisco mine was on the railroad track and I frequently used it. When trotting along it one afternoon the macho halted suddenly before a covered culvert whose steep drop off prevented detouring it. Neither with whip or spurs could I induce him to cross over either mounted or on foot. Although I was furious at his stubbornness ♂ had to give in and take a three mile detour. It turned out that the macho was correct for the planks of the culvert were found to be rotten and we would have broken though them. We approached the same culvert the next afternoon and I tried to rein in Manoso but he just put his head down and trotted over it with his hooves banging on new steel plates. Another incident occurred one night when he started to limp badly as we approached the stables. I dismounted and reached down to extract a stone from a rear foot; he promptly kicked me in the face and jogged on while I walked in.

Sooner or later most of us contracted severe cases of Rigg's disease-pyorrhea. The pain would ebb and flow but when it became unbearable Dr. Shaw would give us oral injections. Frequently the best cure was a two week trip to sea level where the difference in elevation was beneficial. We assumed that it was a combination of low oxygen consumption and a faulty high protein diet, for the Quechuas had very fine teeth. Our condition would become so bad that the front teeth could be wiggled back and forth, morning and night, with extensive

111.

bleeding, a condition that led many unsympathetic friends to comment that the camp's syphilitic condition was getting much worse.

Many areas deep within the mines had heavy water seepage so that when the working shift was over one emerged wet and severely chilled. At such times I would often drop in at Smoky Porter's cabin before reaching camp. He would always have a simmering tea kettle of milk ready to heat up and mix with a shot of Jamaica rum and after a round of two of these drinks your discomfort and weariness would vanish. He was an independent contractor tunnelling through the base of a high mountain to drain by gravity an upper lake for future mining exploration.

Mine superintendent Bill Cooper had run away from home in Toronto and joined the Northwestern Mounted Police at an early age. He had trailed above the Arctic Circle and knew the eastern Alaskan Territory. He was a fine photogenic type of man with black hair and smiling eyes who seemed always ready for any emergency. While eating lunch together one day above the mines he underscored the point that if I stayed in the mining game two years I would never leave it because the allure of its gambling aspects would be too great. As the months passed by I realized that his philosophy had a strong, clear base not found in more settled careers.

I was studying in my room one Sunday night, vaguely aware that a noisy party was boiling up three or four doors down the patio. Suddenly the door was flung open and there stood Bill, hatless and naked to the waist, with straw gauntlets pulled up on his forearms. "Joe", he said, "I hear that you can wrestle. Well, I can box; so which will it be." He was adamant and what a wrestling bout it turned out to be. We knocked the scuttle of soft coal all over the floor and threw the chairs into the bedrooms. His back became raw with the coal dust grinding into it but an hour passed before he decided to return to the pleasures of the drinking party. My advantage was due to five years of wrestling at Yale.

Christmas and New Year's parties were held in the recreation hall where an old gramophone and piano were available for Ken William's intermittent music. A large punch bowl was placed upon a table and each participant poured into it the bottle of his choice. This master cocktail fired up the fiddler and pianist to render music for stag dancing. Inhibitions were not tolerated and variations of the Highland fling and European waltz were mixed up with the Hungarian polka and Indian war dance. One celebration included an old beachcomber who drifted in for the weekend. He was so clever with card tricks that we could not detect them even though we stood closely packed around him. A liberal collection helped him to his unknown destination.

112.

Laundry work was performed by Indian women while standing in ice-cold running water and pounding each piece with stones against a larger rock or smooth ledge. I watched a young wife perform these chores many times in the stream that flowed past the chemist's office. She continued her washings in this icy water all through her pregnancy and even on the day after her child was born she appeared with a fresh batch of clothes.

Our camp was located upon a substantial incline, through the center of which and between the sleeping quarters, ran a fast stream contained in its course by a concrete sluiceway. Resting upon beams thrown across its banks stood a corrugated iron shelter familiarly known by many names such as the Men's Room. Several of our more accurate and exuberant marksmen delighted in shooting through the backside of this structure after a quick estimate of the sitting position of the occupant. Loitering in this particular station was always at a minimum.

Herbert Spencer's "Science of Society" aroused in me a great interest in local customs and one day I realized that I had stumbled across a Morococha gem. Two of our better foremen, Juan and Pedro, lived at opposite ends of a series of adobe family quarters. When Pedro showed me some lovely pictures of his children I said that I would like to stop by and see them. Since I intimated that the address he gave me was Juan's, he laughed and said, "Si, Senor! But Juan and I've exchanged wives for a few months."

Poker was probably the steadiest amusement over the weekend with aution bridge, blackjack and slough following in order. Mr. and Mrs. Kingsmill usually kept open house on Sunday where only royal auction bridge was played. The draw poker games called for no limit table stakes, English gold coins for chips and no I.O.U.'s. Each player brought his own bottle of liquor and placed it on the floor beside his chair. Sound play was the rule with most of the men as they were old hands at it and not easily misled.

The Casapalca Mining Company, owned by Scotch-English interests, was on the Central Railroad between Ticlio and Lima. An interchange of all day visits took place about once a year. In December they telephoned us to say that a couple of card sharks from Lima had spent the night with them and taken all their money. They were warning us to be on the lookout if they visited us and also hoped that we could get their money back. Four of our better players arranged a set of signals between themselves and decided to take on the sharpers. Sure enough the latter came but when the all-night game was over our money went on to Lima with that of Casapalca's.

113.

Government sponsored lotteries provided large national rev-
enues in Peru and daily tickets were sold on every street corner.
We bought them when we could and our camp favorite was the annual
Madrid Special. I won forty dollars on this one but it had to be
cashed in Lima. Our cashier was leaving on a Saturday morning just
as it happened to dismount at camp from my night shift. I gave him
my coupon to cash and that was the last time that I ever saw him.
He absconded with company funds plus a large amount of jewelry which
Mrs. Kingsmill and the executives had had kept in the company's vaults
for safe keeping. Since his record showed previous occupations in the
Orient it was presumed that he had slipped out of Callao harbor on
a Chinese junk, for he was never apprehended.

One pleasant Sunday morning thirty of us rode down the valley
to enjoy a pachamancha, the equivalent of an outdoor barbecue. A large
trench lined with hot stones was filled with beeves, roasts, lambs,
pigs and chickens, togehter with corn and potatoes. During the inter-
vening hours before the feast, various contests were held jointly
with local inhabitants, who had been invited to join us. The feature
event was an amateur bull fight in the public plaza. The star of the
day turned out to be our introverted bookkeeper, addicted to reading
Zola's novels. He took the matador's part and even kneeled on the
ground to flaunt the red cape in the bull's face without recieving
a scratch. He was the toast of the day but no coaxing on our part
ever led him to disclose where he had learned such proficiency.

Mr. Kingsmill continued his career with Cerro de Pasco Company
and ultimately became its board chairman. Early in life he had made
a gold strike in Canada and acquired the nick-name "Champagne Harry"
after the celebration party in Montreal. His wife, Maud, had a charm-
ing personality and whenever one of us was afflicted with a minor
ailment she took over until recovery was effected. When the gold
rush to Porcupine, Ontario, started about 1909 she was the first woman
to join her husband there by trailing to the camp on snowshoes in
January.

Life in this mining camp was always interesting. Long hours
of work in the fascinating gamble for Nature's hidden riches were
balanced by the excitement of the idle hours. In one sense loneli-
ness was impossible among so many fine friends but in due time a
mounting homesickness, an indefinable nostalgia for a remembered
past, builds up and calls you home. This type of mining camp pre-
cludes a satisfactory home life for the vast majority of women and
is impossible for children.

I resigned on March 26, 1914 and returned to the United
States with Bob McIlhenny. We took the Pacific Steamship Line from
Callao to Montevideo. En route we stopped in Chile at the ports of
Iquique, Valparaiso and Consepcion. In the harbor of Valparaiso
the powerful German fleet was anchored, while on its highly publi-
cized world cruise. The passage of the Straits of Magellan was superb,

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not only because of their historical glamour to the Portuguese nation but also because our attention was divided between the icebergs that drop into the straits from Patagonia on the north and the bleakness of Tierra del Fuego on the south. Its largest city, Punta Arenas, has the austere charm that goes with a frontier city devoted to the fur trade.

The South Atlantic Ocean began to show its kinship with the Antartic on the cold and rough passage to Port Stanley on the Falkland Islands. Great numbers of whales followed the ship at various times and gave us fine entertainment. It was here, too, that in the night the heavens were illumined by the full glory of the Southern Cross.

Seven months later World War I recorded the disastrous defeat of Admiral Von Spee during the Battle of the Falkland Islands off Port William.

Montevideo left a lasting impression of rose gardens by an ocean beach and the loveliest women in South America. Their lighter skins are in startling contrast to the darker hues of the west coast countries.

We journeyed by river boat up the La Plata River to Buenos Aires and spent two weeks absorbing the life and sights of this great city. We soon became addicted to the lazy afternoon custom of cafe con leche on the sidewalks of Avenida de Mayo while fashion paraded its best of style and human kind. The world famous race track attracted to it the best horses of the Argentine ranches and Europe. Escoleta Island was notorious the world over for its vice and shabby life. It lies near the shipping basin and before entering it by boat soldiers searched everyone for guns and knives. The dance halls and beer gardens as well as open air cinemas were all set up to pander to the sailors of all nations who frequented it in great numbers.

Bidding farewell to Buenos Aires and South America we embarked on a Munson Line freighter for New York, arriving after a six weeks, non-stop trip. It was the end of May and just about two years after I had sailed for Macchu Picchu. The Statue of Liberty gave me the same great thrill that all travellers must receive the first time it appears to them from the ocean side.

World War I was to start in eight weeks.

By February 19, 1915 the duPont Company offered me a position at their smokeless powder plant, Carney's Point, New Jersey, which I accepted. This was a direct result of my work with them in Peru for Mr. Eury R. Carpenter, Vice-President in charge of duPont development, was a nephew of Mr. E.N. Carpenter. When the war ended I was fortunate enough to be transferred March 31, 1918 to the Chevrolet Motor Company, Flint, Michigan. During the

117.

March 31, 1931.

Dear Professor Bingham;

It was a wonderful surprise to me to receive your volume of "Macchu Picchu" last Saturday. Although several months ago I had written my sister to see if she could pick me up a volume of it some time, I certainly did not expect to receive one directly from your hands. And may I also add that it was an equal pleasure to hear from you again.

The book came Saturday and I spent many hours over the week-end renewing my acquaintance with old scenes and absorbing your latest conclusions as to the historic past of Macchu Picchu and that section of Peru. Perhaps the fact that I spent so many months there and the love which I have for that type of country may prejudice me, but I think that the volume is splendid and I want to congratulate you on its completeness and arrangement. I wonder that you have been able to find time to bring it to such a fine conclusion.

It clarifies many problems even though in their conclusion others equally intriguing are raised. I was particularly interested in the archeological data and in the photographs and description of the various relics which were brought back from the different expeditions because, as you know, I did not see very many of these on the trip, being with Mr. Bumstead making maps. Incidentally, I think that his maps are works of art themselves.

Loving, as I do, old books for themselves alone, I think that the University Press has done a fine job in the formation of the pages and binding.

For some time past I have been in charge of a division of General Motors Corporation having to do with dealer management. This is somewhat far from export work, yet it has been my fortune to contact quite a bit with General Motors Export Company.

About three years ago I called on Paul Hardy at his home in Los Angeles, finding him very happy and contented in his work with Occidental College. About two years ago he and Amy stopped here on a trip East for some summer school work. I believe that he finds greater delight in teaching than following any type of business career.

Again expressing my deep appreciation for your
your courtesy, I am

Hon. Hiram Bingham,
United States Senate
Washington, D.C.

Hiram Bingham
Connecticut.

UNITED STATES SENATE

Washington, D.C.

April 2, 1931.

Dear Joe;

It gives me great pleasure to read your letter and to learn of your enjoyment of the Macchu Picchu Book.

Let me congratulate you on being in charge
of an important subsidiary of the General Motors Corp-
oration. I hope that you will make a success of it as
I am sure that you will.

If ever you come to Washington be sure and
look me up.

Mr. Joseph P. Little
13-114 General Motors Building
Detroit, Michigan.

HIRAM BINGHAM

WASHINGTON
1818 R Street, N. W.

May 28, 1953.

Dear Joe,

Your letter of December 16, 1952, gave me a great deal of pleasure, although it has taken me a long time to acknowledge it.

During the past two years and a half I have been so busy with the duties and correspondence of the Loyalty Review Board that I have neglected many letters from friends.

Yesterday the President's new executive order went into effect. It abolishes the loyalty program set up by President Truman and hence abolishes the Loyalty Review Board of which I have been Chairman since January 3, 1951. However, we are given 120 days to wind up our affairs, although no more cases are to be sent to this office, except possibly from the United Nations.

Consequently, I am getting ready to leave the office since there is really very little for me to do and all matters of policy and plans for future hearings have now been completed.

I am glad to hear that you have been having a good time since you stopped working and particularly that you were able to enjoy eight weeks in my native land. My wife and I spent two monthsthere last summer and she fell in love with it and we plan to go there again in the not too distant future.

On our way back we had a good visit with Osgood Hardy who seemed to be very vigorous and active.

The members of the new cabinet do not seem to go to parties very often, so I have not had an opportunity to meet your friend, C.E.Wilson, the new Secretary of Defense.

My fifty-fifth class reunion begins two weeks from Saturday. I expect to spend a few days in New Haven at that time. We are going to be in Manchester by the Sea this summer and if you should by chance come that way do look us up.

With best wishes,

Joseph P. Little, Esq.
1584 Dorchester Road
Birmingham, Michigan.

122.

goodwill which members of northern races invariably grant each other when they meet in the tropics. Every morning we exchanged greetings as we passed on to our work.

Regarding him as we did the shock of finding him taken from our community was not so much a personal grief as it was the disturbance which follows any destructive upheaval of an old landmark. Like a knarled and withered tree, battered and devoid of beauty, he had suggested a strength and vigor which battled for expression in the upper Sierras.

A trip to Huanihuasi mine that morning took me by the San Pedro. I dismounted for a moment's talk with a group of local authorities who had already gathered here.

"Buenos días, senor," said Juan Garcia, the alcalde of the small town around which our mines clustered.

"Buenos días también, senores," I replied, "How are you? And have you captured the murderer yet?"

"No, senor. It remains a mystery. Every clue has been run down and yet we must confess that up to the present time we have found nothing. Absolutely nothing!"

"But was no one near, no one about the vicinity?" I asked with some surprise. I knew the mayor and was certain that he would use every means to bring the affair to a satisfactory issue and yet I felt an underlying conviction that some miner or drunken Indian must have been seen near the mine entrance. Men kept coming and going all through the grinding night shifts.

"Positively no one! Tomas says he was watching all night; that nothing unusual occurred. The miners swear to it."

Tomas was the watchman stationed at this particular spot. Years ago he had lost an arm in a premature blast in the San Miguel lode and the company had pensioned him off by creating the fiction that the San Pedro property was in possible danger. He was past fifty and his record had been exceptionally fine, so any suspicion that he was involved seemed hardly tenable; moreover he held a job which was practically a sinecure so that the meagre profits of the German could hardly excite his greed. Yet the suspicion was uttered when I asked if they were holding Tomas in jail.

"Hardly," laughed the mayor, "He couldn't have done that. If he had he'd be miles over the mountains or drunk in some chicha hut instead of cooking lunch for me."

Evidently the mayor knew Indian psychology and how

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the glitter of money meant an inevitable debauch. "Right now we're waiting for Captain Sarmiento whom the Prefect has appointed in charge of the crime."

"Splendid, my friend!" I replied, pleased at hearing this news, for Captain Sarmiento was an active and energetic man who would apprehend the murderer, were it possible to do so. His reputation in our area rested upon the rapidity with which he had quelled the incipient revolution, and the despotic secrecy he used in deporting the top ringleaders of the miner's strike, acting with utter disregard of the elements of common law. His men placed implicit though blind reliance upon his judgement.

Bidding my friends goodbye the arduous work of the day kept me from speculating further upon the Captain's course of action. Indeed, it was a slight surprise that evening at dinner when Schuyler Watson inquired politely if I had heard that Sarmiento's first act had been to jail Tomas in solitary confinement.

"Its the beginning of the third degree trial as these mountain soldiers see it," continued Watson, frowning slightly as though shutting out a troublesome memory of his past experience.

"Then you think that Tomas is guilty or somehow mixed up in the matter?" I asked with some curiosity, for Watson's extensive knowledge of the crude workings of South American frontier justice tinged his opinion with extra value.

"Its as much of a mystery to me as to you, or too Sarmiento for that matter. After all I imagine that holding Tomas is largely a matter of bluff; but its a bluff that will be carried to the finish. I'll bet that right now he's planning an ordeal to test the stoutest heart. For Tomas it'll be fatal if he has any knowledge of the deed. Sarmiento won't wait long either."

Watson's latter prophecy was true. While I was watching the installation of some air compressors early next morning I heard the sharp patter of a cavalry squadron. It was trotting across the town's main plaza followed by a crowd of urchins and onlookers. Such an exit indicated an important matter and instinctively I felt that it was connected with yesterday's sinister occurrence.

The soldiers galloped toward the Indian cemetery which lay stretched across the side of a small, barren hill about a quarter of a mile away. Several groups of people had already collected amidst the graves. I soon arrived at the cemetery myself and joined the civilians who had grouped themselves at a respectful distance from the soldiers, two of whom were digging a shallow grave. Tomas stood at the head

124.

of it and was unconfined except for a thin rope loosely tied
about his ankles. He was hobbled rather than bound. A few
paces to the left stood Captain Sarmiento, closely watching
the countenance of Tomas which apparently had not changed
during the reading of a proclamation by Sarmiento's side, the
end of which I heard.

"------ a citizen has been murdered and since we
have been unable to find the guilty person upon whom our
laws pronounce the death penalty, it has been decided that the
watchman to whom was entrusted the murdered man's home should
have prevented the act or have knowledge of it. If such in-
formation is not forthcoming then the watchman shall pay the
penalty for this crime.

You have been brought here, Tomas Gonzalez, to
watch the digging of your grave. Speak out the truth for as
this earth is thrown aside your grave widens before you.
You will be placed at the head of it unblindfolded. One
volley shall be a warning knell; the second will carry oblivion
as your body falls into its eternal resting place."

Whisperings could be heard among the crowd but too
low to determine whether they arose from anticipation of the
coming ordeal or as a protest for such cavalier treatment of
justice. Audible denunciations concerning the proclamation
were stopped by the presence of the armed soldiers. It was
a tremendously interesting scene. I recalled Watson's frown
last night when he pondered the portent of Tomas's arrest
and speculated about any such gruesome events in his past.
Perhaps his absence this morning was because of a satiety of
such episodes.

As the silence was broken only by the click of the
spade and thud of the earth thrown aside, a hundred thoughts
overwhelmed me. What a contrast to justice as dispensed in
my country! Sterile hills open to heaven only replaced a
drab municipal courtroom; sophisticated women and blase men
of the world turned into shoeless, poncho-covered Indians or
nonchalant Latin storekeepers; Inca spirits from surround-
ing graves guarded this dramatic scene instead of jurists'
portraits of bygone days peering from old canvasses; no
middle-aged judge hearing objections weighted down by tomes
of precedents presided at this hearing but rather, a young
man in the dashing prime of life was desiring quick justice, and
was guarded by steel. Counsel for the offense was a platoon
of soldiers shooting at the accused across an open grave
while the defense had only the nerve of a single man pitted
against the bluff. of Death.

125.

A trace of the spirit of Phillip the Second's Inquisition lingered in the soul of this captain, displaying itself in the cruelty of his torture and arrogant assumption of power over this race which his forefathers had fought and conquered. I thought of the wheel of torture lying in Lima's museum not far from the cathedral which boasts of guarding the immortal Pizarro's bones and my impression grew that the same dominant use of physical power which had gained for the latter his golden, magnificent successes bade fare to triumph for Sarmiento. So much for the progress of four centuries!

The soldiers stopped digging. The rumble of mining cars across the lake never ceased. Wierd minor notes rose from e shepherd's flute higher in the hills. Tomas remained unmoved but a slight breeze could not dry the perspiration that damp- ened his brow. He had spoken to no one. Intent on the least bit of evidence, damning or otherwise, that might flit across the swarthy features of the Indian, Captain Sarmiento nodded to his lieutenant to proceed.

"Attention!" The bystanders fell back and gave ample space for the principal actors, an officer watching the well executed movements of his soldiers as they faced Tomas across a black hole. Tomas's lone arm twitched at his threadbare poncho.

"Fire close." When the volley broke Tomas started and only by extraordinary agility saved himself from falling into the grave. His eyes conveyed an expression of fear as though his nervous start had embraced the picture that would be presented after the second volley echoed back from the hills as his spirit mingled with those of the neighboring graves.

The twitching of his arm increased and he tried to sup- press it by firmly clutching his coca pouch. He did not speak.

"Count ten and shoot to kill." It was Sarmiento speaking quietly to the lieutenant.

"One,--two,--three,--four,--." As the measured count proceeded Tomas crossed himself, leaning upon this religious rite to bolster his failing nerves. A slight smile crossed Sarmiento's face as though he interpreted the act favorably.

"Seven,--eight,--." Through the heavy silence one could feel the soldiers tighten their rifle butts against their shoulders for a better focus on Tomas.

126,

"Nine." A shout rose from the crowd. Tomas had toppled into the grave, not from deadly bullets but because his stolid will could no longer withstand the pitiless sight of shining rifles and the certainty that another round would bring death. He had fainted. In a few moments he opened his eyes and encountered the unflinching gaze of Sarmiento who was bending over him.

"Stand him in his place. Continue the count," the latter ordered.

"No! No! Captain, not that. I can't die. I'll tell everything. I know the man. But he was my friend, Captain, and I couldn't betray him. God help me!"

"Take him to jail for questioning." With the light of another victory shining in his eyes he turned and walked quickly to the orderly who held his horse. As a mountain man he had dealt with a mountaineer and Justice had been upheld.

"They have captured the murderer," remarked Watson that evening. "He was hiding in a tambo on the road to Xauxi. Sarmiento has his confession. Tomas saw the crime committed but had no part in it. He'll be released."

"Is that so?" I replied. "I thought that the matter would be settled before sundown for this morning I saw Sarmiento's torture of Tomas in the cemetery. It was a mighty rough deal."

As he started to leave Watson gave me a penetrating look. "Ah! Then you'll never lose the experience. I know. It turns back the pages of history hundreds of years."

In hearty agreement with this morbid opinion I could but wonder what the next episode would be in this strange land.