5 Rue Christine VI
Paris

October 13, 1954

My dear Poppy:

It has taken me far too long to thank you for your marvelous gift - to tell you what a joy it is to possess a third untiring arm. It has revolutionized kitchen work and has been a life saver these ten days of my return. It was necessary to cook for friends here for a short while - also Mr. and Mrs. Bessie - editor of the recipe book - with an immobilized right hand. The blendor took over everything! And so adequately - so gently that it calmed me and made excellent lunches. Jo thought it best to attach it to the strongest current and use the lower speed and that lower speed is instantaneous - and now this is my discovery. With the Waring Blendor mixes are a handicap to first rate results, inferior quality of material and rigidity of flavors - poverty in results due to economy of eggs. It makes marvelous popovers, false quenelles - (by preheating the container and reheating it - by plunging into hot water several times.) It is not only a life saver but a life's diversion and so very beautiful. Isabel Wilder had not yet seen a copper finished one. She was green with envy. The blendor is kept on the dining room table and is a perfect center piece for the Tuscan Renaissance table. How can I ever thank you enough for it's magic, it's beauty.

The first hectic days of my return are over and now I am digging in against the winter. There are incredibly beautiful moments each day but there are many darkened hours. The compensations are two very fine picture shows - a Picasso and a Ceyzanne and the Viennese opera to come.

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Have you seen a very vulgar notice in Time of marijuana fudge. At first I was furious as it was not a recipe of mine but one contributed by a friend. Then in no time it was naturally forgotten. (G.S. once said Alice doesn't forgive, she just forgets.) Now Thornton Wilder writes from London that everyone is talking rapturously of the m. fudge matter. It has set the Thames and the Seine on fire and perhaps the Hudson and the Volga who would have thought that you would pull a publicity stunt. And who would have.

The months vacation near Grasse on a hillside amongst the olive trees was restful, calm and delightful - we hated to leave - one of the friends with whom I was staying is a superb cook. He built a spit in the garden and cooked fish wrapped in funnel and pork basted with sage twigs and veal with rosemary twigs or basil. The vegetable - fish and fruit markets were like New Orleans - and the meat - poultry and game better by far than Paris and very cheap. Have you located walnut oil in N.Y. if not let me know *at once please*. Have you the West Coast Cookbook.

Thank you dear Poppy again and again for the miraculous Blendor.

A thousand good wishes to you.

Alice

5 Rue Christine VI
Paris

October 13, 1954

My dear Poppy:

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Have you seen a very vulgar notice in Time of marijuana fudge. At first I was furious as it was not a recipe of mine but one contributed by a friend. Then in no time it was naturally forgotten. (U.S. once said Alice doesn't forgive, she just forgets.) Now Thornton Wilder writes from London that everyone is talking rapturously of the m. fudge matter. It has set the Thames and the Seine on fire and perhaps the Hudson and the Volga who would have thought that you would pull a publicity stunt. And who would have.

The months vacation near Urasse on a hillside amongst the olive trees was restful, calm and delightful - we hated to leave - one of the friends with whom I was staying is a superb cook. He built a spit in the garden and cooked fish wrapped in funnel and pork basted with sage twigs and veal with rosemary twigs or basil. The vegetable - fish and fruit markets were like New Orleans - and the meat - poultry and game better by far than Paris and very cheap. Have you located walnut oil in N.Y. if not let me know at once please. Have you the West Coast Cookbook.

Alice

# COOKING WITH COGNAC

By Alice B. Toklas

It has been my habit for several years to keep a carafe of good cognac on a kitchen shelf. Like salt it brings out and amalgamates the various flavors of any dish.

Here are recipes requiring more than 1 or 2 tablespoons of cognac, lighted or not.

Commence a meal with this excellent

## Onion Soup

Put 4 sliced onions in a saucepan in which 4 tablespoons butter is bubbling, sprinkle 1 teaspoon sugar over the onions. In about 10 minutes when they are golden, not browned, remove from heat. Cut 1 lb. French bread in 1/3 inch slices and toast them, butter them generously and cover each with a slice of Swiss cheese. Place the onions in a large fireproof earthen ware dish and pour over them six cups hot beef bouillon, 1/2 cup cognac, salt and pepper and the prepared bread. Place for 20 minutes in a preheated moderately hot oven. Serve piping hot and pass grated parmesan cheese. This is distinctly an onion soup with a difference.

## Omelette With Chicken Liver Paste

This is the recipe for the Famous Omelette of La Mère Poularde of Mont Saint-Michel. To commence with the chicken liver paste which is my contribution. Cook 3/4 lb chicken liver in 1/2 cup cognac over low flame. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon butter. Cover but stir once or twice to prevent scorching. They will be sufficiently cooked in about 12 minutes. Test with the point of a sharp knife to see that it is juice not blood that exudes. Then pound through a sieve and keep hot in a covered saucepan while the omelette is being prepared. Beat 6 eggs with a pinch of salt for 5 minutes with a rotary beater. During this time a piece of butter the size

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of an egg has been heating in a heavy saucepan. After 5 minutes the egg should be quite thick. Raise the heat under the saucepan and when the butter is golden pour in the eggs. In 1/4 minute (is a stop watch amongst your kitchen utensils?) stir the omelette with a long handled fork. The pan should be very hot. In 3/4 of a minute (the stop watch to the rescue again) lift a corner of the omelette and add another piece of butter the size of an egg. The omelette will be cooked in 1 minute (here the kitchen dock will suffice for this). At once pour the liver paste on the omelette. Fold the omelette over and serve at once on a warm but not hot plate.

A good recipe for

## Jugged Hare

Wipe the hare with a moist cloth and disjoint it. Marinate for 24 hours in a bottle of excellent dry red wine (the better the wine the better the sauce) 1/2 cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Turn the pieces twice before removing from their bath the next day. Dry each piece thoroughly and brown in 6 tablespoons butter. Cook in a covered saucepan for 1 hour 1 sliced onion in 1 tablespoon butter. Put 4 tablespoons butter in a Dutch oven. When it bubbles add 1 tablespoon flour. Stir until golden brown. Add over very low flame the browned pieces of hare, the onions, 1/2 tablespoon fat, back of pork (rind included), a bouquet of several stalks of parsely, of thyme, of basil, of celery and 2 bay leaves, 3 cloves, 3 shallot and a blade of mace. Cover the pot and allow to stew in its own juice for 1/4 hour over very low flame. Bring to a boil and add the marinade which you have had the precaution to heat. Cook gently for 3/4 of an hour and then add 1½ cups brandy. The hare, depending upon its age and size, will require about 1 hour further cooking. It should be served surrounded by croutons covered

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with

## Soubise Sauce

1 cup thick Bechamel sauce to which has been added 2 tablespoons onion juice

2 tablespoon veal or chicken bouillon and 2 tablespoon heavy cream, salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg.

Brown the croutons in the oven.

This is an old way - 1939 to prepare

## Fried Spring Chicken

Wipe 2 broilers with a moist cloth, dry them and rub with half a lemon, this will keep them white. Disjoint them, the second joints and drumsticks in one piece and the loins and filets. Discard the rest, they will make a bouillon. Cover the pieces of chicken with 1 beaten egg to which has been added 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Cover each piece completely with dry bread crumbs. In a heavy frying pan heat 1/4 cup butter and 1/4 cup olive oil. Lightly brown the pieces of the chicken, being careful not to disturb the egg crumb coating. Lower the flame and cover the pan after having added 1 cup lighted cognac. Shake the pan frequently so that the chicken will not scorch. In 1/2 hour they will be ready to serve. Serve with

## Oyster Sauce

Slice 3 truffles and put aside. Chop one very fine with 3 stalks parsely, 1 shallot and 1 green onion. Pound through a hair sieve. Mix with 1/2 cup soft but not melted butter. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/3 teaspoon pepper and put aside. Allow 2 dozen oysters to just come to the boil in their juice. Drain and keep the juice. Paint a saucepan with the truffle-butter mixture. Place half of the sliced truffles at the bottom of the

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saucepan. Dot with 1/3 of the remaining truffle butter mixture. Then put a layer of all the oysters. Then dot with truffle butter, add the rest of the sliced truffles and top with all the remaining truffle butter. Cover and keep hot but do not allow to boil. Skim excess butter and add oyster juice, 1/2 cup cognac and 1/4 cup chicken bouillon. Bring slowly to a boil. Remove chicken from frying pan to preheated serving dish. Add a little of the hot sauce to pan and stir to thoroughly mix. Add to sauce, heat well and pour over chicken. Serve at once.

A still older recipe (1691) is for

## Roast Chicken With Olives

Entirely cover the breasts of a fine chicken with a large thin slice of fat back of pork (rind removed), tied securely but not too tightly in place. Put it in a roasting pan or better still on a spit. In the dripping pan put 1/2 cup butter and 1/2 cup chicken bouillon with which the chicken will be basted. In a saucepan put 3 stalks of parsley, 1 cubed green onion, 2 tablespoon lard and 1 tablespoon flour. When the lard commences to bubble add the contents of the dripping pan, bring to a boil and add 1/2 cup hot chicken bouillon, and 1/2 cup cognac, 1 laurel leaf, a twig of thyme, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 12 pitted and finely chopped olives and 1 crushed boned anchovy. Cover and simmer for 1/4 hour. Then add little by little 1/2 cup more hot chicken bouillon. When the chickens are done place on a preheated shallow serving dish. Strain the sauce and replace over flame. Pour a little of it into the pan (if the chickens have not been cooked on the spit) and stir to release any of the juice adhering to the pan. Add this to the sauce and skim the sauce. Pour over chickens. Surround by green tips of asparagus that have waited in salted water for 6 minutes. Sprinkle on them 2 chopped hard boiled eggs mixed with fine bread crumbs browned in butter.

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## Boeuf à la Mode

Marinate 5 tablespoons top round of beef for 24 hours in 1 bottle good dry white wine and 1 cup good cognac, turning the meat several times. The next day remove meat from its bath and dry thoroughly. You will have to lard it yourself because the strips of fat back of pork must soak for four or five hours in cognac. Each strip after it has been placed in the larding needle must have pressed onto it some finely chopped parsley, some powdered basil, salt, pepper and a good pinch of cloves, of mace and of thyme well mixed, rubbed into it. Push the larding needle into the meat with the grain of the meat in 8 or 9 evenly separate places. Allow the lardons to extend 3/4 inch beyond the meat on either end. Rub into the meat 1 tablespoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1/2 teaspoon ginger and 1/4 teaspoon mace. Put 4 tablespoons butter in a heavy enamelled pot and brown the meat gently on all sides and pour 1/2 cup lighted cognac over it. Remove meat and line the pot with a piece of fat back of pork, about 3/4 of an inch thick rind is included. Place the meat on it and pour over it the marinade brought to a boil with 1 cup beef bouillon, 1/2 lb. sliced carrots, 2 large sliced onions, a bouquet of parsley, thyme and laurel leaf and a calf's foot washed in hot water and thoroughly scraped. Cover and bring to a quick boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 4 1/2 hours. Remove meat and carrots to preheated shallow serving dish. Skim sauce and strain over meat.

This is a succulent dish and is equally delicious cold in which case the juice must be clarified. To do this bring the juice after it has been strained over medium heat and 2 whites of eggs and 2 egg shells. When it comes to a boil remove from heat and strain through a moistened cloth. The meat is sliced and the slices placed overlapping in a deep bowl. When the juice is as thick as cream pour it over the meat and place the bowl in the refrigerator. Unmold in the usual manner. Half of it may be eaten hot the first day and the rest

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cold the next day. As there will be half of the sauce to clarify use 1
white of egg and 1 egg shell.

## Short Ribs of Beef

Have the butcher separate 4 lbs short ribs of beef. Tie them together but not too tightly. Cover a Dutch oven with slices of fat back of pork. On them place 2 sliced onions and 1 lb. sliced carrots. Place the spareribs on this with 1 lb. of beef knuckle in several pieces. Add 1 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, a good pinch of ginger and of cinnamon and a bouquet of parsley, 1 larch leaf and a twig of thyme. Place over low heat covered for 20 minutes so that the meat will exude its juice. Then add 2/4 cup cognac and 1/2 cup Madeira and enough beef bouillon to cover the spare-ribs. Then add 1/2 calf's foot which has been washed in hot water and scraped. Place the Dutch oven hermetically covered in a preheated 350° oven for 3 1/2 hours. Turn the meat twice. The meat will be quite tender, what the French call fondant (melting). Remove from oven, place spareribs on preheated fire proof dish, pour strained juice over it. Put in hot oven to glaze. This dish requires a green vegetable, braised lettuce for instance.

This was a favorite dish in 1797.

## Duck in Delicate Aspic

Cover the duck with pieces of fat back of pork that has one side rubbed with salt, pepper, ginger, mace and very finely chopped shallots, green onion. Tie in place-prepared side on the duck. Cover the bottom of a Dutch oven with fat back of pork, rind removed, place the duck on it and sprinkle over the duck 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, 2 grated carrots, 1 grated parsnip or turnip, 2 grated onions, 1/4 cup chopped lean ham, 2 cloves crushed garlic, a sprig of parsley and 3 whole cloves. Pour over this 1 cup cognac, 1 cup dry white wine,

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1 cup beef bouillon which has been brought to the boil. Bring to a boil covered over high heat and put in preheated 350° oven. (The recipe says to put the pot in hot ashes.) It will take about 3/4 hour to cook the duck. Place the duck in a bowl breast down after having removed string. Skim the juice, add 1 tablespoon orange juice and strain the juice over the duck. Chill and unmold before serving. Delicious.

This recipe is also dated 1797. It calls for legs of turkey but any presentable pieces of left over turkey are just as tasty. Though its intriguing name would be a misnamed, for it is called

## Turkey Legs Revived

Put 2 turkey legs, second joints and drumsticks in a sauce pan with 3/4 cups cognac, 3/4 beef bouillon, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, a bouquet of 1 stalk parsley, 1/2 clove garlic, 1 green onion and 2 cloves. Cover and cook over medium flame when the liquid will be completely absorbed. Place the pieces of turkey on preheated serving dish and cover with this which has been prepared while turkey was cooking.

## Stew

Soak a sweet bread for 1 hour in cold water. Place in saucepan, cover with cold water, add 1 teaspoon salt, cover saucepan and bring to a boil. The sweet bread will be cooked in 20 minutes. Remove from pan and allow cold water to run over it until it is tepid when fat tubes and skin should be removed and the sweet bread cut in cubes. Put 4 tablespoons butter in a sauce-pan. When it bubbles add cubed sweet breads, 1/2 lb. sliced mushrooms, 1 chopped green onions, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of this and gradually add 1/2 cup hot beef bouillon and 1/2 cup hot cognac. Simmer for 15 minutes, stirring with the wooden spoon. Pour over turkey legs and serve.

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To end with a good plain American dish with an addition

Sweet Potatoes and Oranges

Boil in their jackets 6 sweet potatoes until they are not quite
tender. Peel, slice put a layer in a buttered fireproof dish, dot with butter,
sprinkled with brown sugar, cover with a layer of thinly sliced unpeeled oranges from
which seeds and the white center have been removed. Continue in this manner until the
six potatoes and 2 large oranges, 1/2 cup brown sugar and 1/3 cup butter have been
used. Pour over the contents of the dish 1/2 cup cognac. Sprinkle over the top
brown sugar and dot with butter. Bake for about 1/2 hour or until well browned
in medium oven. Serve very hot with pork roasted or grilled.