sitting on a chair, elbow on knee, staring wistfully upwards. His knees are gory - he has brown kinked curls 2½ feet long, a red velvet cape and a great Sacred Heart necklace His eyes are warm - poetic, in the worst sense; a trickle of blood streams down the exact center of his nose, from the throny crown he wears. His feet rest on a lace pillow.

After emerging from the glories of Rosario chapel - we come upon a Mary Mourning, sitting behind a gold grille, life-size doll on a chair. She has a black lace dress, and holds a crown of thorns in her hands, looking at it regretfully. The real rings on her fingers glint - but she is so SUDDEN an apparition, one jumps when passing her unawares - jumps and cries out....

BLUE IS THE COLOR OF MEXICO - when, paradoxically it ought to be red and yellow; not a soft color... blue rebosos, blue denims, blue tiles on church domes, blue eyes often, strangely startling and beautiful, blue skies, blue distances - a powder-blue tint of a maguey plantation... there is even a corn that has blue kernels. One sees more blue here than any other color.

TAXCO IS TRISTE - the pink towers of the cathedral, pushing above the massy Indian Ixkai laurels of the plaza, are gay, operatic, but the city is sad... forgotten. One can detect the outsider, merely by the carriage and expression of face, as he goes up the steep stony streets... pain, was there ever such pain for the attainment of a vista? Even the wood bench outside the cantina is a martyrising griddle, sitting on which you can only think of your sins to repent. Life is quiet here - bare feet make no noise on round small cobbles. The flares in the market at night are quiet in the sweet quiet air - and the shades sitting over peanuts, fruits and bowls of pig crackle are quiet, too.

"There are only two seasons in Mexico - the sun and the shadow"

TEPOTZOTLAN - enroute we stop at the pyramid of Tenayuca. Here is a small pyramid, but unique for its serpent base - the coiling serpents running around the entire base. They are shockingly realistic - the heads are solid stond, carved within maws gaping outward. The coiled bodies are made of stones set together with some binding material, but scale-shaped bones, to that one feels their aliveness. There are excavations within the pyramid - the remains of two other pyramids - the inner core being a very ancient mound, over which the Toltecs built, then over that - the Azecs, etc - a sort of three-in-one pyramid. But its setting is charming. . .completely shut in by organ cactus fences, small thatched huts, pigstys, etc - a mound rising out of the heart of a tiny town.

Then - the same day - only an hour or so later, to be in the convent of Tepotatlan - the choicest gem of colonial architecture - where all was built for creature comfort and spiritual peace. There are long white corridors with old iron lanterns swinging from long chains - and arched windows that give out upon tiny patios where orange trees grow. There is a chapel in the convent - all gold and tiles, with the most adorable statues still standing in the niches there. | One wants to snatch them down and runn off with them under one's coat.

No one would stop the vandalism. There is no guardian for these vast colonial remains - only little Indian boys who run about the vast corridors, their gigglings echoing strangely where once the Jesuit voices intoned.

There is one statue in this chapel - the first on the left upon entering - the most adorable in all Mexico - if one loves a little lady in a gold dress who leans backward, arms extended, head slightly

on one side as if asking to be adored - not for
her ecclesiastical record, but rather
for the perfect beauty of her body's line.
There are scores of statuettes in these chapel
niches - each lovely, carved in wood, worked
in color and gold-leaf. The arched ceiling
is gayly painted - and the floor around the
altar is inset with fine old tiles.
Mirrors and mirrors inset in the goldleaf
altar and framed pictures. . .
As you leave the chapel, you look again at
the lovely lady in her left niche. . . her
eyes are blue, her lips so pink and her
black gown is decorated with gold-leaf
flowers.

The church itself is a crushing effect
of super-decoration - yet, in the chirruguresque
way, it attracts and draws one on in the vain
hope of looking each carven angel in the face,
of discovering each strange gargoyle buried
among scrolls and garlands. . . of tracing
( to its owner each gold foot that protrudes
from the great altars in their upward march toward
the high ceiling. Angels wing through forests of
goldleaf.

Then there is Capilla del Camarin - one
great vaulted room about 12 by 12 - tiled
floor, pilasters of red and gold carved work,
whereon negros are carved, upholding
baskets on their heads. . . .angels, angels
and angels, and faraloft where the dome
grows small so its outside could be covered
with pure onyx - far aloft one perfect gold
dove alone in his cerulean vault. The
doors to this tiny chapel are carved, painted
blue and red with the shining outline of
goldleaf. It looks so Moorish. . . .

This countryside, in the month of September
(late) is covered with flowers - the soft
pink of wild cosmos. Distant blue mountains
show shanks all soft with the curious
pink which from a distance looks like
a strangely diluted sunset pouring upon them. . .
water lilies in ditches parelled in the
roads. . . .

18

IN THE DEEP SOUTH...

Sealsland

A resort of smart distinction with the south-
ern flair for gracious living... An island haven
in the sun where each individual of a selected
clientele is a king in his own right. Pursue
your own bent. Golf, swim, ride, hunt, shoot

skeet, bicycle, play tennis. Or
live a life of luxuriant leisure.

THE CLOISTER

Sea Island, Georgia

Write direct, see travel agent or Cloister
N. Y. Office, 630 5th Ave., Circle 3-5055

BERMUDA

PLEASURE ISLAND

LIFE GOES ON at a serene and pleasant pace in Bermuda. A kindly sun shines on white-roofed cottages; lazy surf curls over coral beaches; and man moves by bicycle. Yet, for the energetic, there is golf on cedar-bordered courses, tennis, fishing, and sailing on moonlit water. Regular Alcoa Steamship and Pan-American airplane transportation from New York. Passports required, but you will incur no difficulty. Favourable exchange rates. Ample hotel and guest-house facilities.

An air view of the Homestead at Virginia Hot Springs.

THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY

A visit to the Shenandoah Park presents one with an
mirable opportunity to enjoy the attractions of the beau-
ful and historic Shenandoah Valley. Here history, scenery and
recreation have combined to make the Valley a mecca for the
sands of visitors each season.

Outstanding among the Valley attractions is Natural Bridge
one of the seven natural wonders of the world, near Lexington
It was once worshipped by the Indians and owned by Thom
Jefferson, who bought it from King George III, of England, for
twenty shillings.

Lexington, guardian of the tombs of Lee and Jackson, is the
seat of Washington and Lee University and the Virginia Mil-
tary Institute, both closely associated with the nation's his-
tory. At Staunton is the birthplace of Woodrow Wilson, which
recently restored.

In the Shenandoah Valley region are nine caverns of amaz-
ing beauty and design. Here stalactites and stalagmites of unique
sizes and shapes have been congealed. Each cavern appears to
be a buried city of geologic wonders. The caverns open to the
public are: Battlefield Crystal, on United States Route 11, one
mile north of Strasburg; Dixie, on United States Route 11;
fourteen miles west of Roanoke; Endless, three miles south of
New Market, on United States Route 11; Grand, at Grottoes
Luray, just west of the town of Luray, on United States Route
211; Massanutten, six miles east of Harrisonburg, on United
States Route 33; Melrose, six miles north of Harrisonburg, on
United States Route 11; Shenandoah, three miles north of
New Market, 45 miles south of Winchester, on United States Route
11; Skyline, about one mile south of Front Royal, on Route 11.
near the northern entrance to Skyline Drive.

THE OLD DOMINION

Richmond, Capital of the State, is closely identified with the
Revolutionary and Civil Wars. In Richmond is St. John's
Church where Patrick Henry delivered his eloquent address
ending with these now famous words, "Give me liberty or give
me death." Henry's great speech did much to arouse Virginia
to armed resistance to Great Britain.

The Capitol, designed by Thomas Jefferson after the Maison
Carrée, at Nimes, France, houses the magnificent statue of
George Washington done by the French sculptor, Houdon, as
well as other important works of art. Maymont, once a private
estate, is now a municipal garden park, noted for its rare plants,
trees and flowers, some of which came from foreign countries,
and many of which are particularly beautiful in their autumn
dress. Besides these, Richmond has the White House of the
Confederacy, the home of President Jefferson Davis during the
war, and now a museum of Confederate relics, and Battle Ab-
bey, with its works of art associated with the Confederacy.

Once a private estate, Maymont in Richmond is now a
garden park, noted for its rare plants, shrubs and trees.
It is open free to visitors seven days of the week.

In the northern portion of Virginia are Fredericksburg and Alexandria, also closely identified with the Revolutionary and Civil War eras, each having a number of historic shrines reminiscent of these periods. Along the Potomac River is the George Washington Birthplace National Monument, and Stratford, home of the famous Virginia Lees and birthplace of Robert E. Lee.

Overlooking the Potomac near the Nation's Capital is Mount Vernon, home and final resting place of George Washington. The estate is maintained today much as the first president left it, and it is one of the most visited historic shrines in America.

Charlottesville boasts not only the home of the University of
Virginia, which was founded by Thomas Jefferson, but "Monti-
cello," Jefferson's mountaintop home which he designed. The
house contains many of the third president's unique but useful
inventions. Jefferson is buried on the estate. Nearby is "Ash
Lawn," home of James Monroe.

THE BATTLEFIELD PARKS

Virginia was the major theatre of action during the War
Between the States. Most of the battlefields have now been
developed into parks, with others under construction. In them,
the visitor will find that the fields themselves are outdoor lab-
oratories that attractively combine opportunities for recreation
and study.

Attractive woodland drives, walks and bridle paths make the
fortifications and key positions accessible. The parks are pro-
vided with picnic and sanitary facilities. There are visitors'
information stations at strategic points where expert guidance
may be obtained without charge.

Museums, libraries, narrative and directional markers, relief
maps, orientation discs and other educational features add to the
interest and pleasure of a visit to the Virginia battlefields.

The parks are Richmond National Battlefield Park, near Richmond; Petersburg National Military Park, near Petersburg; Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, near Fredericksburg; Appomattox Courthouse National Historical Monument, near Appomattox (under construction); Manassas National Battlefield Park, near Manassas (under construction); and Sailor's Creek Battlefield Park, in Amelia and Nottoway Counties (under construction).

19

In the years that have gone, a never-ending stream
of American visitors went year by year to Great
Britain and Ireland; how many of them must be
longing for the time when they will do so again!
Even in these days of war, however, American
visitors of distinction on exploratory pilgrimages,
have not been lacking and although you may not
be able at the moment to visit these islands the
day will surely return when the American tourist
can and will be welcomed as in the past. To the
thrill of visiting places time-hallowed before
Columbus, will be added the knowledge that they
will be still more hallowed as the final outposts of
Civilisation which withstood the onslaught of the
Barbarian.

So, when lights gleam again in hearts and
hearts and homes—as they burn still in the spirit
—of the Old World, these little sea-girt isles will
once again open arms of welcome to their kith
and kin from the New World who stood by them
in their struggle for liberty and democracy.

Meantime, the British and Irish Railways continue to maintain their contact with their American friends through the General Traffic Manager in New York, C. M. Turner.

Associated
BRITISH & IRISH RAILWAYS
Incorporated

C. M. TURNER, General Traffic Manager

9 Rockefeller Plaza, (16 W. 49th St.) New York, N.Y.

24

The Keystone State

Autumn paints a gay, bright canvas in picturesque Pennsylvania. Flaming colors — scarlets, yellows, oranges and reds — spread out a scene that stretches from the Poconos on the East to Lake Erie in the Northwest and from the New York border across the state to the Mason Dixon line.

Crisp winds come down from the mountains. Clear and sharp yet warm days and cool nights are tonic for the vacationist, the motorist, the rider and the hiker. The vacationist who has saved up his time and his money to enjoy a respite from everyday life and cares finds a Pennsylvania autumn most appealing and enjoyable.

Once a poet wrote

"Oh, what is so rare as a day in June?
Then, if ever, come perfect days."

He could have written the same thing about Pennsylvania in the autumn. Then, too, come perfect days that fill one with vigor for the tasks ahead in the coming winter.

"In these days, especially, when we have to do the best kind of a job in building up our national defense it is imperative that the executives and leaders as well as the men behind the machines, get out into the fresh, clear air and away from work for as long a time as possible, to freshen up a bit and get back on the job with renewed vigor and a new slant on life," urges the State Department of Commerce of Pennsylvania. "One can only do the best job possible in the defense effort when physically fit — and days outdoors will give that fitness. One of the most important things in the defense effort is the building up of our own bodies. The nation is geared at full speed in the defense effort. Our people must relax better at play and recreation to work better at the huge job ahead, and Pennsylvania offers that opportunity."

In autumn there is a peace pervading the Pennsylvania countryside. Farm crops have nearly all been gathered, many fields are already ploughed for next year's crops. The freshly-turned brown earth vies with the gaily colored hillsides. Soon dry rusting rows of cornstalks in military formation will dot the farmlands, interspersed with rows of yellow pumpkins and red apples growing in orchards on a thousand hills.

It is a time for reflection, for contemplation, for peace and the full enjoyment of a season that is rapidly coming to be more and more appreciated by increasingly large numbers of persons who wait until this time of the year to visit Pennsylvania's scenic and historic sites, to enjoy the facilities of the resorts and recreational areas — to have a grand, good time before winter comes along.

Visiting historic sites and scenic areas, golfing on excellent courses, hiking over the hills, riding the bridle trails, camping in a snug cabin in a state park or relaxing at one of hundreds of resort hotels, spending a week at a farm home or a mountain inn, fishing — and soon hunting! — visiting industrial centres and agricultural areas — all these, and more, offer the visitor an opportunity for a change of scene and relaxation and rest.

Historic sites are particularly appealing in these days of armed strife and stress. Pennsylvania is the birthstate of the defense. Within the boundaries of the Keystone State — even the nickname indicates the commonwealth's strategic position in the founding of the country — the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution of the United States were adopted and signed. Tourists at beautiful Valley Forge can take a flash-back into the days when Washington and his ragged Continentals wintered there to come through with final victories. And Gettysburg — there's another national shrine close

Top to bottom — Washington's Headquarters at Valley Forge; a typical Pennsylvania farm scene; Old Covered Bridge on Route 501; shelter in a Pennsylvania State Park.

PENNSYLVANIA in the Autumn! The flaming foliage of Fall transforms the hillsides... flecks the valleys with crimson highlights... glorifies the whole countryside with the glowing tones of the turning leaves. Pennsylvanians... and visitors to that historic state... are favored each Fall by a lavish display of color running riot through the woodlands... the woodlands that to this day still cover almost half the area of the Commonwealth. Many

square miles of the forestland are preserved for the enjoyment of all the people in Pennsylvania's State Parks and Forests... in State Recreational Areas... and in and around the historic shrines that serve as perpetual reminders of the part the Keystone State played in the founding of this Nation and in the struggle to preserve the Union. Plan a visit now... while Autumn marches Southward along the mountain ridges and the fertile farmlands of Pennsylvania.

32

Tennessee. Indians demanded toll and were so persistent in their bloody attempts to collect it that the Federal government finally agreed to give them $1,500 a year in goods to let the travelers pass.

When Tennessee became a state in 1796 more vigorous steps were taken to protect travelers. About this time William Walton cut a road from Monterey, through Cookeville, to the present site of Carthage where he operated a ferry. This shortened the distance to Nashville and enabled that growing settlement to get mail twice a month.

For many years the Old Wilderness Road, still one of Tennessee's busiest highways, was the only link between Nashville and the east and was frequently traveled by Andrew Jackson who consumed a month each time he drove his old carriage to or from Washington.

That ancient vehicle is still to be seen at the Hermitage, the beautiful home where Jackson lived and ventured forth on his exploits. This old home is a classic example of the best architecture of its day and is preserved by patriotic women in every detail just as it was when Old Hickory passed away.

The Hermitage is only a few minutes' drive over splendid roads from Nashville. Visitors to this shrine enjoy a scene of sylvan loveliness and quietude, while within the building they see many of the relics and mementos of Jackson's tempestuously busy and aggressive life.

Another old and romantic road enters Tennessee through Cumberland Gap, made famous by Daniel Boone when he blazed the trail into Kentucky. This gap is one of the most scenic and historic spots in

America and is about to be converted into a National Park.

This road leads into the country to which tourists are now flocking because it is the home of Alvin T. York, world war hero who killed twenty-seven German soldiers and captured 137 more single-handed. Among the numerous hotels of the area is the Mark Twain Hotel at Jamestown. This old inn was named for America's great humorist, whose parents lived at Jamestown until three months before he was born when they moved to Missouri. Twain's father was county court clerk and many of the documents in the courthouse are in his handwriting.

Other roads of adventure lead through the vast cotton fields of West Tennessee where David Crockett did valiant pioneer work before going to Texas where he met his heroic death at the Alamo. Some lead to Memphis where DeSoto first gazed upon the Father of Waters. Others take sportsmen to Reelfoot Lake, one of the wonders of the world. Formed by an earthquake in 1811, this 14,500-acre stretch of water is the home of more than thirty varieties of fresh-water fish. The forests within and around it are almost primeval and give refuge to practically every variety of wading and swimming water-fowl on this continent.

All these old Roads of Romance, some of which were built with bullets as well as shovels, are links in Tennessee's 7,266-mile network of first-class highways that give an urge to go agypying where each succeeding mile reveals another scene of nature's beauty.

Complete information on any part of the state can be had by writing to the Division of State Information, Department of Conservation, Nashville, Tennessee.

Reelfoot Lake in Tennessee.

Emphasis on Comfort

FOR YOUR

ATLANTIC CITY

AUTUMN VISIT

To complete the countless pleasures of an autumn vacation in Atlantic City, these seven leading hotels—all on the ocean-front—offer you a choice of superior accommodations—of spacious guest rooms, sun decks, lounges and solaria overlooking beach and Boardwalk—private fresh and sea water baths—a high standard of cuisine—individual and varied entertainment—and all appealing especially to a select clientele.

Address Reservation Manager at any of the following
hotels for rates, reservations and detailed information.

SEASIDE • TRAYMORE • BRIGHTON • CHALFONTE-HADDON HALL

CLARIDGE • DENNIS • MARLBOROUGH-BLENHEIM

On the Isle Romantic in the Blue Atlantic

Books about our SOUTH AMERICAN NEIGHBORS

□ Our nearest South American neighbor—and perhaps our most important—Colombia lies less than one hour's bombing time from the Panama Canal. In this complete, fascinating, witty book, Kathleen Romoli shows the history, present-day politics, and geographical features of "the land of contrasts," where one can wake up in the air-trains," where one can feel the comfort of a modern hotel de conditioned comfort of a modern jungle with bow-and-arrow Indians, and spend the night in the perpetual cold of the highest mountains.

COLOMBIA
Gateway to South America
by Kathleen Romoli

Illustrated with 8 pages of
photos, end-paper maps, $3.50

DOUBLEDAY, DORAN

□ THE ALL-AMERICAN FRONT—by Duncan Aikman—is THE book on our relations with South America. "A gold mine of information . . . brilliant, episodic, grammatic."—N. Y. Times. Maps, $3.50.

□ YENEZUELA—by Henry J. Allen, Fascinating key to politics, history, national beauty of the nation that has no unemployment, no national debt, $3.50

□ RIO—by Hugh Gibson. "Should be read for sheer enjoyment, and for an understanding of the Brazilian people."—Times Book Review, Illus. $3.50

□ AZTECS OF MEXICO—George C. Vailaut. Fabulous history of the Aztec nation and its strange influence in the world. American Museum of Natural History Science Series. Illus. $4.00

□ THE MEXICAN EARTH—Todd Downing. "A notable history, from earliest times, with a sympathetic and convincing analysis of the problems of today."—Times Book Review, Illus. $3.00

□ DEFENSE OF THE AMERICAS—André Cébradame, distinguished French historian. This terrifying book should shock Americans into a true realization of our peril from the Nazi "Invisible War." $3.00

40

THE HILARIOUS, FASCINATING
STORY OF HAWAII

Abounding in fabulous anecdotes, this book
nevertheless tells the complete story of Hawaii
from the time the white man first landed up to
the present day. Mirrored in it are the glamor, the
color, the beauty that have given Hawaii its repu-
tation as an almost legendary land of delight,
Beautifully illustrated.
$2.75

By Thomas Blake Clark

PARADISE, Limited:
An Informal History of
The Fabulous Hawaiians

MODERN AGE BOOKS • 432 4th AVE. • NEW YORK

STEFAN
ZWEIG

Endowed with the practiced
eye of an inveterate globe-
trotter and the trained mind
of an historian and psychol-
ogist, Stefan Zweig has pro-
duced a rich and useful book
about a very great, yet little
known land.
$3.00

Brazil

Land of the Future

THE VIKING PRESS

18 East 48th Street • New York

THE COLORADO CONQUEST

By David O. Woodbury

From the time it was first seen by the old Spanish conquistadors, it was a river to challenge the fighting spirit of men, such a potential giver of life and wealth as had never before been seen — if it could be tamed. Mr. Woodbury unravels the long, tangled story and welds the whole variegated mass into a moving, dramatic tale of one of America's great epics.

$3.00

DODD, MEAD

BALTIMORE ON THE CHESAPEAKE

by Hamilton Owens

This newest addition to the *Seaport Series* is a vivid tale, for "There is hardly a deep-sea sailor anywhere who doesn't know Baltimore as one of the great ports, who doesn't know something at least of its history of fighting, privateering, slave trading and blockade running, and who can't sing a chantey or two in which the Baltimore clipper figures." Others of the series are: *THE PORT OF GLOUCESTER, HARBOR OF THE SUN* (San Diego), and *NORTHWEST GATEWAY* (Seattle).

$3.50

DOUBLEDAY, DORAN

NOVEMBER ROWEN

By Cornelius Weygandt

The title, meaning late Fall mowing, is perfect. For here are the mellowed, mature, personal impressions of the people, crafts, institutions and customs of New Hampshire, by a man whose love for this picturesque state is felt on every page.

$3.50

APPLETON

HAVANA MAÑANA

By Consuelo Hermer and Marjorie May

For anyone Havana bound, this book is as essential as a one-
way ticket. How to get there, what to do and visit and try
there, what to buy and what to avoid and how much everything
will cost, the clothes to use and to shun, the food to eat and the
liquor to drink, the places to play and dance and gamble —
everything under the Cuban sun and stars is here.

$2.00

RANDOM HOUSE

View from the dining room of Pocono Manor
overlooking Paradise Valley in Pennsylvania.

Hawaii

Standing two thousand miles out, in the
gentle latitudes of the South Pacific,
HAWAII is firmly woven into the fabric
of the nation, by MATSON ships.

In an atmosphere which Hawaii herself
has created, MATSON ships make of this
famous four-and-one-half-day sea voyage
an inspired experience.

Your Travel Agent or MATSON LINE
offices will gladly give you illustrated liter-
ature about HAWAII and the SOUTH SEAS.

STIECHER

Matson Line
TO Hawaii•

TO Hawaii•NEW ZEALAND•AUSTRALIA
VIA SAMOA • FIJI

S. S. LURLINE • S. S. MARIFOSA • S. S. MONTEREY • S. S. MATSONIA

Orizaba.

# Notes From a Mexican Diary

By Kathryn Hulme

Director of Publicity, Ask Mr. Foster Travel Service

Mexico has many entrances — by ship into Acapulco from the West coast or into Veracruz from the East coast, by train, by plane or by motor car down the excellent 750 mile Pan American Highway connecting Laredo, Texas with Mexico City. But the Veracruz entry is the most dramatic of all, because of the stunning train ride from sea level up to Orizaba, following the trail of Cortez in its tortuous 8,000-foot climb from tropical levels to the high plateau on which Mexico City is built. During the all-day ride in the glass-enclosed observation car of the Mexican Railways, you sit and stare at wild and gorgeous scenery. There are trees one has never seen before, a tropical underbrush specked with flowers amid long grass, lush and bright at the end of the rainy season in September.

This is the perfect season for travel in Mexico; the rains are over, the blue sky filled with drifting galleon clouds and fields and mountainsides carpeted with wildflowers. As we climb from the seacoast at Veracruz, we get into thick tropical growths — banana palms, pineapples, coffee bushes and coco palms struggling against the thrusting jungle. At each small station the people of the town cluster with wares to sell. The groups of Indian women with baskets of fruit on their heads — chirimoyas, guavas, man goes and small red bananas — are Diego Rivera frescos come to life. At the midway station of Fortin, gardenias are sold — floral pieces like great towered wedding cakes of solid gardenias, each flower tied to a stick and stuck into the soft pulp of a banana stem, creations that make one cry for joy . . . and for sale at 10¢ each! Everyone buys and the train turns into a gardenia hot-house swooning with perfume. There are little baskets with great spreading surfaces of gardenias studded with scarlet camellias and there are segments of hollow banana stems closed at both ends, filled with gardenias that keep as fresh as if in a refrigerator. The train climbs upward through tropical country, past stations draped in bougainvillea and all the strange trees have orchids on their tops. Toward the top, we wind endlessly around Orizaba with its

perpetual snow, seeing it from right, then from left, until finally we arrive at Esperanza at the top of the climb. Now on the high plateau, plants, flowers and trees become recognizable. There are fields of wild pink cosmos, mustard and goldenrod, against a vast blue sky filled with the miraculous white clouds of Mexico at the end of the rainy season. Round-topped mountains close in each vista and the long plains are covered with maguey, the spear-shaped grey-green cactus that provides fiber and *pulque*. Maguey plantations stretch for miles, giving occasional glimpses of the great haciendas where the owners live. The villages far off on the plateau plain, each with a snow-white church, are curiously suggestive of Arab villages . . . except for the bluish green atmosphere with shadows the color of maguey leaves. At stations, *pulque* is sold. Indian women bring it to the train windows in earthen jugs with little clay cups — a white milky fluid brackish and flat-tasting to the unaccustomed tongue. Now the air is chill and bracing and ears respond to altitude. As we approach Mexico City, Popo hides in the clouds but the Teotihuacan pyramids are visible, as impressive as anything to be found in Egypt. Guadalupe, the Mecca of Mexico . . . and then Mexico City.

**MEXICO CITY** — One's first impression is contradictory. Autos, millions of them, and busses and trams with horns and bells, give a feeling of bustling western life. This is only the surface impression. It will change in a day or so after one recovers from altitude weariness. Then Mexico comes into the heart, and you're an *aficionado* forever. The Zocalo is the center of the town and just about everything begins from this plaza — the trams for every section of the city, the busses and private motor cars for every town in Mexico you're longing to see. The Cathedral dominates the Zocalo. We go to mass in the elaborate Sacristy adjoining the Cathedral. It is gorgeous with gold altar pieces and the floor is aged wood planking on which Indians kneel and sometimes beat their heads. The whole building sinks out of plumb (Mexico's spongy substrata) and the effect of something

[1941]

18

IN THE DEEP SOUTH...

## Sea Island

A resort of smart distinction with the southern flair for gracious living...An island haven in the sun where each individual of a selected clientele is a king in his own right. Pursue your own bent. Golf, swim, ride, hunt, shoot skeet, bicycle, play tennis. Or live a life of luxuriant leisure.

THE CLOISTER

Sea Island, Georgia

Write direct, see travel agent or Cloister
N.Y. Office, 630 5th Ave., Circle y-805

## BERMUDA
PLEASURE ISLAND

## THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY

A visit to the Shenandoah Park presents one with an admirable opportunity to enjoy the attractions of the beautiful and historic Shenandoah Valley. Here history, scenery and recreation have combined to make the Valley a mecca for thousands of visitors each season.

Outstanding among the Valley attractions is Natural Bridge, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, near Lexington. It was once worshipped by the Indians and owned by Thomas Jefferson, who bought it from King George III, of England, for twenty shillings.

Lexington, guardian of the tombs of Lee and Jackson, is the seat of Washington and Lee University and the Virginia Military Institute, both closely associated with the nation's history. At Staunton is the birthplace of Woodrow Wilson, which was recently restored.

In the Shenandoah Valley region are nine caverns of amazing beauty and design. Here stalactites and stalagmites of unique sizes and shapes have been congealed. Each cavern appears to be a buried city of geologic wonders. The caverns open to the public are: Battlefield Crystal, on United States Route 11, one mile north of Strasburg; Dixie, on United States Route 11, fourteen miles west of Roanoke; Endless, three miles south of New Market, on United States Route 11; Grand, at Grottoes; Luray, just west of the town of Luray, on United States Route 211; Massanutten, six miles east of Harrisonburg, on United States Route 33; Melrose, six miles north of Harrisonburg, on United States Route 11; Shenandoah, three miles north of New Market, 45 miles south of Winchester, on United States Route 11; Skyline, about one mile south of Front Royal, on Route 12, near the northern entrance to Skyline Drive.

## THE OLD DOMINION

Richmond, Capital of the State, is closely identified with the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. In Richmond is St. John's Church where Patrick Henry delivered his eloquent address, ending with these now famous words, "Give me liberty or give me death." Henry's great speech did much to arouse Virginia to armed resistance to Great Britain.

The Capitol, designed by Thomas Jefferson after the Maison Carrée, at Nimes, France, houses the magnificent statue of George Washington done by the French sculptor, Houdon, as well as other important works of art. Maymont, once a private estate, is now a municipal garden park, noted for its rare plants, trees and flowers, some of which came from foreign countries, and many of which are particularly beautiful in their autumn dress. Besides these, Richmond has the White House of the Confederacy, the home of President Jefferson Davis during the war, and now a museum of Confederate relics, and Battle Abbey, with its works of art associated with the Confederacy.

Charlottesville boasts not only the home of the University of Virginia, which was founded by Thomas Jefferson, but "Monticello," Jefferson's mountaintop home which he designed. The house contains many of the third president's unique but useful inventions. Jefferson is buried on the estate. Nearby is "Ash Lawn," home of James Monroe.

## THE BATTLEFIELD PARKS

Virginia was the major theatre of action during the War Between the States. Most of the battlefields have now been developed into parks, with others under construction. In them, the visitor will find that the fields themselves are outdoor laboratories that attractively combine opportunities for recreation and study.

Attractive woodland drives, walks and bridle paths make the fortifications and key positions accessible. The parks are provided with picnic and sanitary facilities. There are visitors' information stations at strategic points where expert guidance may be obtained without charge.

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So, when lights gleam again in hearts and hearths and homes—as they burn still in the spirit—of the Old World, these little sea-girt isles will once again open arms of welcome to their kith and kin from the New World who stood by them in their struggle for liberty and democracy.

The Keystone State

Once a poet wrote

Historic sites are particularly appealing in these days of armed strife and stress. Pennsylvania is the birthstate of the nation — and it is and always has been the keystone of national defense. Within the boundaries of the Keystone State — even the nickname indicates the commonwealth's strategic position in the founding of the country — the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution of the United States were adopted and signed. Tourists at beautiful Valley Forge can take a flash-back into the days when Washington and his ragged Continentals wintered there to come through with final victories. And Gettysburg — there's another national shrine close

PENNSYLVANIA in the Autumn! The flaming foliage of Fall transforms the hillsides ... flecks the valleys with crimson highlights ... glorifies the whole countryside with the glowing tones of the turning leaves. Pennsylvanians ... and visitors to that historic state ... are favored each Fall by a lavish display of color running riot through the woodlands ... the woodlands that to this day still cover almost half the area of the Commonwealth. Many square miles of the forestland are preserved for the enjoyment of all the people in Pennsylvania's State Parks and Forests ... in State Recreational Areas ... and in and around the historic shrines that serve as perpetual reminders of the part the Keystone State played in the founding of this Nation and in the struggle to preserve the Union. Plan a visit now ... while Autumn marches Southward along the mountain ridges and the fertile farmlands of Pennsylvania.

32

Tennessee. Indians demanded toll and were so per- sistent in their bloody attempts to collect it that the Federal government finally agreed to give them $1,500 a year in goods to let the travelers pass.

When Tennessee became a state in 1796 more vig-orous steps were taken to protect travelers. About this time William Walton cut a road from Monterey, through Cookeville, to the present site of Carthage where he operated a ferry. This shortened the distance to Nashville and enabled that growing settlement to get mail twice a month.

For many years the Old Wilderness Road, still one of Tennessee's busiest highways, was the only link between Nashville and the east and was frequently traveled by Andrew Jackson who consumed a month each time he drove his old carriage to or from Wash- ington.

That ancient vehicle is still to be seen at the Her- mitage, the beautiful home where Jackson lived and ventured forth on his exploits. This old home is a classic example of the best architecture of its day and is preserved by patriotic women in every detail just as it was when Old Hickory passed away.

The Hermitage is only a few minutes' drive over splendid roads from Nashville. Visitors to this shrine enjoy a scene ofylvan loveliness and quietude, while within the building they see many of the relics and mementos of Jackson's tempestuously busy and ag- gressive life.

Other roads of adventure lead through the vast cotton fields of West Tennessee where David Crockett did valiant pioneer work before going to Texas where he met his heroic death at the Alamo. Some lead to Memphis where DeSoto first gazed upon the Father of Waters. Others take sportsmen to Reeffoot Lake, one of the wonders of the world. Formed by an earthquake in 1811, this 14,500-acre stretch of water is the home of more than thirty varieties of fresh-water fish. The forests within and around it are almost primeval and give refuge to practically every variety of wading and swimming water-fowl on this continent.

All these old Roads of Romance, some of which were built with bullets as well as shovels, are links in Ten- nessee's 7,266-mile network of first-class highways that give an urge to go agypsying where each succeeding mile reveals another scene of nature's beauty.

Reeffoot Lake in Tennessee.

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Emphasis on Comfort

FOR YOUR
ATLANTIC CITY
AUTUMN VISIT

To complete the countless pleasures of an autumn vacation in Atlantic City, these seven leading hotels—all on the ocean-front—offer you a choice of superior accommodations—of spacious guest rooms, sun decks, lounges and solaria overlooking beach and Boardwalk—private fresh and sea water baths — a high standard of cuisine—individual and varied entertainment—and all appealing especially to a select clientele.

☐ Our nearest South American neighbor— and perhaps our most important—Colombia lies less than one hour's bombing time from the Panama Canal. In this complete, fasci- nating, witty book, Kathleen Romoli shows the history, present-day politics, and geo- graphical features of "the land of con- trasts," where one can wake up in the air- conditioned comfort of a modern hotel de luxe, lunch in the streaming jungle with bow-and-arrow Indians, and spend the night in the perpetual cold of the highest mountains.

Illustrated with 8 pages of
photos, end-paper maps. $3.50

☐ THE ALL-AMERICAN FRONT—by Duncan Aikman—is THE book on our relations with South America, "A gold mine of information, brilliant, epi- grammatic."—N. Y. Times, Maps. $3.50

☐ VENEZUELA—by Henry J. Allen. Fascinating key to politics, history, nat- ural beauty of the nation that has no unemployment, no national debt, $3.50 unemployment, no national debt. $3.50

☐ RIO—by Hugh Gibson. "Should be read for sheer enjoyment, and for an understanding of the Brazilian people."—Time Book Review, Illus. $3.50

☐ AZTECS OF MEXICO—George C. Vaillant. Fabulous history of the Aztec nation and its strange influence in the world. American Museum of Natural History Science Series. Illus. $4.00

☐ THE MEXICAN EARTH—Todd Doun- ing. "A notable history, from earliest times, with a sympathetic and convincing analysis of the problems of today."—Time Book Review, Illus. $3.50

☐ DEFENSE OF THE AMERICAS—André Cébradame, distinguished French his- torian. This terrifying book should shock Americans into a true realization of our peril from the Nazi "Invisible War." $3.50

DOUBLEDAY, DORAN