42

Of Tea.

very hot with a little sugar, we found
it very wholliom; and comparing the
effects of this *Tea* with thofe of wine,
especially as they uſe it in this Coun-
try, where the Stomach is weakned
by the extream heat, and its force
is oppreſſed by the quality of the nou-
riſhment, it is doubtfull which of
thefe two may obtain the pre-eminence,
if not this leaf; the uſe whereof is
grown so common in thofe Countries,
it having many excellent properties,
the chief of which is to make one
that is drunk become ſober. Where-
in 'tis very different from all other
liqours whereof men make uſe,
which being drunk with exceſs, either
weaken or quite deprive them of
their understanding, whereas *Tea* for-
tifies, and frees them from the va-
pours which hinder its effects.

In the ſeveral Voyages of Fa-
ther Alexander of Rhodes, the thir-
teenth Chapter is wholly taken up,
in treating of *Tea*, and reflecting
on the advantages of the People of
*China*. He ſays, One of the things
which in my opinion do very much
contribute to the great health of this
people

Of Tea.

43

people, which oftentimes appears to
the very last, in their old age, is *Tea*,
whose use is exceeding common
through all the East, and begins to
be known in some Countrys of Eu-
rope, by the means of the Hollanders,
who bring it from *China*, and sell it
at Paris for thirty Franks the pound
which they buy in this Country for
eight pence or ten pence, and yet I per-
ceive that it is commonly very old
and naughty. 'Tis thus that the
*French* and *English* suffer strangers to
enrich themselves in the East-India
trade, whence they might draw all
the best commodities of the world, if
they had but the courage to undertake
it as well as their neighbours, who
have lefs means to prosper therein then
our own Country-men.

*Tea* is a leaf, as big, as that of
our Pomegranate tree, it grows on lit-
tle shrubs very much resembling the
Myrtle Tree, it is not to be purcha-
fed in any Country of the World,
but only in two Provinces of *China*
where it grows, one whereof is cal-
led *Nanquin*, whence comes the best
*Tea*, which they name *Cha*, the o-
ther

44

Of Tea.

ther is the Province of Chincheau, in
these two Provinces, there is as
much care taken in the Crop of this
leaf as there is in our Vintages.
It grows here in so great abundance,
that they have enough thereof to fur-
nish the rest of China, Japan, Tun-
quin, Cochinchina, and several other
Kingdoms, where they so ordinarily
make use of Tea, that those who
drink it but three times a day, are
the most moderate, others take of it
ten or twelve times a day, or to say
better, every hour.

When this leaf is cropt, they
dry it well in an Oven, then they put
it into tin boxes, which must be
well shut, for if it takes wind, 'tis
spoiled, and has no more strength
then dead leven. I leave to you to
judge if the Hollanders take great
care of that they fell into France.
To know if the Tea be good, you
must see that it be very Green, bit-
ter, and so dry as to be easily broken
with the Finger, if it is all thus, 'tis
good, otherwise assure your self it is
not worth much.

The fashion of the Chineſes when
they

Of Tea.

45

they make use of this *Tea* is to boyl
some Water in a little pot very clean,
when it boyls well, they take it from
the fire, and put therein, so many
leaves according to the proportion of
Water, that is to say into a good
large glafs of Water, they put about
an Ounce of *Tea*, they Cover the pot
well, and when the leaf links to the
bottom of the Water, then is the
time to drink it, for 'tis then that
the *Tea* Communicates its vertue to
the Water, giving it a reddish dye,
they drink it as hot as they can, for
if it should cool it would be good
for nothing, the same leaf which
tarries at the Bottom of the pot will
serve a second or third time, but
then they boyl it with the water.

The Japenefes take it another way,
for they firſt beat the *Tea* to powder,
then they put it into boyling water
and Swallow it all together: I know
not whether this way of taking it
be more wholſom then the former.
I have made use of, and always found
that way of the Chineſes to be ex-
ceeding good : both of them mingle
a little ſugar therewith to correct
the

46 Of Tea.

the bitternes of the *Tea*, which ne-
verthelefs methinks is not so very
unpleasant.

There be three principal vertues in
*Tea*; the firſt of which is to cure and
to hinder the pains of the head; for
my part, when I had the *Megrime*, in
taking of this *Tea*, I found my ſelf so
very much eafed and comforted that
it drew out all the pain of my head:
for the principal force of *Tea* is to
abate and expell thofe groſs vapours
which ascending from the Stomach
into the head do very much incom-
mode us. If you take it after ſupper,
it commonly hinders ſleep, yet there
be ſome who by drinking of *Tea* ſleeps
the better, becauſe allaying none
but the moſt foggy vapours, it leaves
behind it thofe that do cheifly cauſe
ſleep. For my part I have experi-
mented it often enough, when I
have been compelled to fit up all
night about ſome extraordinary buſi-
neſs, I needed to do no more but
to take ſome of this *Tea* when I
perceived my ſelf beginning to ſleep,
and I could eafily watch all nightwith-
out winking, and the next morning

Of Tea.

47

I was as fresh as if I had slept my
ordinary time ; this I could do once
a week without any trouble. I tried
one time to continue waking six
nights together. But the last night
I found my self quite spent.

*Tea* is not only good for the head,
but it has a marvellous force in easing
the Stomach, and helping digestion,
they drink it also ordinarily after
dinner, after supper not at all, e-
specially those that would sleep. The
third thing for which *Tea* is good, is
to purge the reins of the Gout and
Gravell, and 'tis perhaps the true
reason why these diseases are unknown
in those Countries.

I have the more enlarged my self
on this discourse of *Tea*, for since my
abode in France I have had the ho-
nour to see some, persons of great
quality and of an illustrious merit,
(and upon whose lives and healths
the safety of France does almost de-
pend,) who make use thereof with
good successes, and who have had the
goodneſs to command me to teach
them the nature and quality of this
Drug, the knowledge whereof I
have

48

Of Tea.

have gained by a thirty years experience.

Nicholas Tulpus Phyfitian of Amsterdam, in his Book of medicinal obfervations speaks thus. There is nothing more ordinary in the East Indies than the drink, which is made of the decoction of a certain Plant, called by the Chinese, Tea, by the Japanese, Tchia, whereof I shall make no difficulty to communicate to Pomerity, all the knowledge that has been imparted to me by those who hold the Sovereign authority in these Countries. As therefore the aboveaid Plant has leaves long picked, and jagged round about, so on the other side its root is full of strings, and divided into two little partitions, and does not grow only in China and Japan, but also in Chiam or Siam: moreover there is this difference, the leaves of China are of a dark green something inclining to a black, but those of Japan, are of a more pale and whitish green, and of a more pleasant taste, which is the very reason why the Tchia of Japan is much more esteemed than the Tea of China, so that

Of Tea.

49

that it often happens, that one only
pound of Tchïa is fold for 100.
French Livres. And indeed 'tis the
common vogue and opinion of this
Country, that there is nothing more
Soveraign then this plant, as well
for the prolonging of our days even
to an extream old age, as for diffi-
pating all that may be an hindrance
or obstacle to our health, and that it
not only renders the body more vi-
gorous, and preserves it from the
pains of the Stone ( to which there
be none in these Countrys that are
found subject) but which is more, it
cures all pains of the head, Rheums,
and forenefs of the eyes, of the breast,
shortnefs of breath, weaknefs of the
Stomach, Griping of the Guts,
wearinefs, and it so evidently hin-
ders sleep, that those persons who
drink of the said decoction pafs some-
times whole nights without sleeping,
and overcome without any trouble,
or tediousnefs the necessity of sleep,
which otherwife were insupportable:
for it heats moderately, and contracts
the upper orifice of the Stomach, it
retains and suppresses so well the va-

D pours

50

Of Tea.

pours necessary in the creating sleep,
which rise from below, that those
who have a desire to spend the
whole night in writing, or studying,
do thereby find no manner of trouble
or disturbance.

Moreover it is very likely that this
plant has not been long known to
the Chineses themselves, and that it
has been in use amongst them but a
small time, since they cannot find
in their language any ancient word
whereby to explain it, and have not
any hieroglyphic characters ( such as
are almost all the Letters of the Chi-
neses ) by the means whereof they
might express its nature.

As to the manner of using this Plant,
we must take notice that these nations
are very different one from another in
that matter. For the Japanese beat
the same Plant to powder, pounding
it upon a marble stone, and afterwards
mingling it well with hot water :
but the Chineses only boyl it in some
liquor, adding thereto a few grains-
either of Salt, or Sugar, which de-
coction, as yet hot, they present after-
wards very courteously, as well to

those

Of Tea.

5¹

those that being invited to dinner
they treat at home, as to them that
come to render them a visit : This
drink they make with so great care
and so nice an application of their
mind thereto; even persons of the
highest quality are not ashamed, but
on the contrary they take great pride
to make with their own hands the
decoction of this herb for their friends,
or at the least affront in the mingling
thereof, and preparing it as it ought
to be, having exprefly for that pur-
pose in the middle of their Palaces
Rooms set apart, wherein there are
little Ovens made of the most pre-
cious stones, and of most exquifite
wood, referved particularly for the
aforeaid preparation, keeping, also
curiously in these Rooms the pots,
trivets, funells, bowls, porringers,
and other vessels belonging to this
fort of kitchin, perfectly well wrought,
and on which they freely berow
some thousands of Crowns, keeping
them handsomly wrapt up and folded
in peices of silk, and not shewing
them to any but their most intimate
friends. They do also make as great

D 2

account

The Preface.

after it: And therefore it does not seem needles to me to have undertaken this labour, for the profit and content of the publick, endeavouring to accommodate this Drink to every Man's liking, according to the variety of things, which may be mixt therewith, to the end, that every one may choose that which he shall find most agreeable towards the cure of his infirmities. I have not seen any thing of the like nature in Print afore, unless that which a Physician of Merchend (a Town in Andaluzia) speaks thereof, who judges the Chocolate to be obstructive, because the Cacao is cold and dry, and because this reason may not sufficiently avail with some persons (that are troubled with obstructions) to make them forbear the use thereof, I think it fit to defend this mixture and composition by Philosophical Reasons against all those that would condemn so good and wholesom a Liquor.

THE

(57)

THE

USE

OF

CHOCOLATE

The First Part.

IN this first Division I affirm that Chocolate is a word of the Indians which vulgarly signifies no more than a certain confection, in the which besides the other simples and ingredients the Cacao Nut comes in as the principal basis and foundation; the Nature whereof first of all we must necessarily mention. Chocolate therefore, or Chocolatl, is an Indian word by which (as I said before) is meant a certain paste or mixture compoſed of very many drugs, of which they take a certain portion to dissolve it in ordinary Water, or any other Liquor that may serve instead

58 Of Chocolate,

instead of drink. This Drink is not
common to all the Indians, but on-
ly to those that inhabit the Northern
America; and namely to those that
dwell in New Spain, where grows
the Cacao in great abundance, which
is the chiefest thing in this compoſi-
tion, it is particularly uſed in Mexico,
whence it is transported into Europe,
to those places which hold great
Commerce and correspondence with
the Mexicans. I hold therefore, with
the common opinion of all the world,
that the Cacao is cold and dry, ac-
cording to the exceſs of its quality.
Our Authour not ſpeaking any
thing concerning the Tree which
bears the Cacao, we are obliged to
ſupply his overſight, by giving you
a deſcription thereof extracted from
the works of Francis Ximenes, in
his book intituled Of the Nature
of the Plants and Animals of New-
Spain, a Work very curious and ve-
ry ſcarce, which was printed not
long ſince at Mexico. The Tree of
the Cacao call'd Cucabuaguabuith
(says he) is of the fame bigneſs, and
has the fame leaves tho ſomething
larger

Of Chocolate.

59

larger, with the Orange Tree. Her-
rera compares them to those of the
Chefnut Tree, or for the better under-
standing it, like our plumb trees; its
fruit is long, and like a, Melon or
Pumpion, but it is streakt, chanelled,
and ruddy, the which is named Ca-
cahuacintla full of small Nuts call'd
Cacao, something lefs than an Al-
mond, but better cimented, and of
a good taste, its Nuts are divided into
two equal parts, well compacted and
close together. It is of a fine nouri-
shment, being of a middling taste
between sweet and bitter, its tem-
perament something cold and moist,
There be four forts of this Tree, the
first is called Cacahuagnahuitl, which
is the biggest of all, and bears a
great quantity of fruit. The second is
called by the same name, but of a
middle size, the leaves and fruit
whereof is a great deal lefs. The
third is named Xuchicacahuagnauhuitl,
lefs than other, of which the fruit
is redder on the outside, within 'tis
altogether like the others. The
fourth fort is the least of all, so it is
term'd Ilalcacahuagnahuitl, that is
to

to

60 Of Chocolate.

to say, a little low Tree of Cacao,
the which bears a fruit less than all
the rest, although there is no difference
between them as to the colour:
Now all these fruits are of the same
quality, and of the same use, although
they make use of the last principally
in drink, the others serve rather for
money and change. Moreover they
were wont to Plant near the Tree
which bears the Cacao another Tree
which they call Atlynam, to the
end that it may shade it and defend
it from the heat and rays of the Sun,
besides which it is not good for any
other use. He that will may see
what is further spoken thereof in the
Chronicle of America Printed at
Francfort 1602. In Joseph Acosta in
his general History of the Indies: In
Jean Eusebe de Nuremberg ; and in
Clusius of strange things. It is con-
venient to know for the intelligence
of this thing, that although it may
be true that every Medicine, as sim-
ple as this, poisons and keeps in it
self the four qualities of the elements.
Nevertheless from the acting and re-
acting, which they have one upon
another,

Of Chocolate.

61

another, there proceeds and results
another quality distinct and different
from these four former called Com-
plexion or Temperement.

This quality or Complexion which
results from this mixture is not always
the fame, neither is it of the fame
fort in all the mixt bodies : but it
has nine kinds and differences, to wit,
four simples, which have one only
Superiour quality; four compound
which have two predominant quali-
ties, but however which agree very
well together, and for that reason
are called symbolizant, and a ninth
which the Philosophers call ad pon-
dus, as if one should say a tempe-
rament exactly equal, when as all the
aforeaid qualities are evenly poised,
that is equal in weight and in de-
gree. The complexion and tempe-
rament of the Cacao is compounded
of all these, for it has two qualities
to wit, cold, and dry, which are Su-
periour, and predominant, the which
render the body wherein they are
found adlstringent, opilative, and ma-
king obstructions, from the terrestrial
quality thereof, but furthermore
the

## 62 Of Chocolate.

the Cacao being a mixt Body, composed of the four Elements, it ought necessarily to have some parts correspond, and proportionable to all the elements; and it has some particular parts, and those not a few, which correspondant with the element of the air, which are the heat and moistness, which qualities are found joyned with the buttery parts, so that they draw from the Cacao a great quantity of butter, which they use in making their faces fhine, which I have seen practice'd in the Indies by the Spanish Women born there, who are call'd by the Spaniards Croillas.

Againft which one may make this Philosophical Objection: two contrary and disagreeing qualities, cannot be found in the highest degree in the fame Body; as for Example, the Cacao is cold and dry in the highest degree, consequently therefore the Cacao cannot be hot and dry in the fame degree, which are contrary to cold and moisture. The firſt proposition is moſt certain, and received in good Philosophy. The ſecond is alſo agreed to by all the

World

Of Chocolate.

63

Would, therefore the conclusion is
most true and certain.

One cannot deny but this is a ve-
ry strong argument, and 'tis likely that
these reasons being considered by that
fame Philitian of Merchena, might im-
duce him to affirm, that Chocolate was
obstructive, for he thought it contra-
ry to all Philosophy, to lay that the
Cacao is hot and moist in the highest
degree, which is certainly believed to
be cold and dry. But to this I anfwer
two things, the one is the small expe-
rience and knowledge this Physician
had thereof, having never seen them
extract the great quantity of Butter
from thence; and that, when they
prepare the Chocolate, without do-
ing any thing to the powder of the
Cacao, but beating and pounding
it sufficiently, it becomes a part firm
and well compacted, which is a cer-
tain sign that it has within an oy-
ly and viscuous matter, which ne-
ceffarily corresponds with the ele-
ment of the air : The other Argu-
ment we shall draw from the very
fountain of Philosophy, wherein I
shall demonstrate, that in the Cacao
are

64

Of Chocolate.

are included different Substances, in some of which, to wit, in those that are not so thick and groans, there is a greater quantity of oyly and buttery than of earthy parts, and in the condense and heavy parts there is a more earthy than oyly substance; in the former heat and moisture are predominate, the latter are accounted cold and dry.

Yet it is hard to believe, that one and the same substance, and that so small as the Cacao is, can contain two different qualities. Yet that this may appear more easie, clear, and evident, we see it more especially in Rhubarb, the which has some hot and purgative parts; others cold, dry, and astringent, which have the power to fortifie, shorten, and to stop the flux of the belly. Whofoever also shall see and consider the nature of Steel, which is of an earthy quality, heavy, thick, cold, and dry, will (methinks) hardly be induced to believe that it is good against obstructions, but rather more fit to increase them, and yet for all that the best Physitians do prescribe it as the chiefest remedy against them.

This

Of Chocolate.

65

This difficulty is resolved; for supposing that Steel has several gross and earthy parts, there be some Sulphurous, and Mercurial; whereby it is opening, and takes away Obstructions. It is true, that this does not appear, but by means of the way and preparation thereof, which is that in pounding, grinding, and beating it into a very fine powder, its Sulphurous and Mercurial parts, as being active subtil, and incisive, mingle themselves so perfectly and exactly with the terrestrial and astringent, that being thus mingled the one with the other, one cannot affirm that the Steel is astringent, but rather that it is incisive, attenuates, and removes obstructions.

We will prove this opinion by several Doctrines, and first that of Galen, who in the Third Book Of the Faculties of Simple Drugs, in the 14th chapter, at the beginning thereof; faith, That all Drugs, that are simple to the outward appearance, are altogether mixt, and by this means have contrary qualities, that is to expel, and to retain; to thicken, and subtilize; to condense, and tarify; of which there is

no

66 Of Chocolate.

no wonder, since that the same Drugs
hath the power to heat, and make cold,
to moisten or dry, and that in every
Drug or Medicament there are found
parts subtil and gros, thick and thin,
soft and hard, and in the following
Chapter of the same Book; he afferts
the example of an old Cock, the broth
whereof loofened the belly, but its
flesh was binding; and also of Aloes,
the which being washed, immediately
loves its purgative vertue, or that
which remains thereof is very feeble.
Then that this difference of the vertues
and qualities is found in different parts
or substances of Medicaments, Galen
thews in his I. Book Of the Power of Me-
dicaments, c. 17. Where he particular-
ly instances of Milk, wherein is found,
and from which is separated three di-
stinct substances, to wit, the Cheese,
which hinders and stops the flux of
the Belly, the ferocity or Cream which
is purgative, and the Butter which
nourishes, as he himself has explain-
ed it in the Third Book Of Aliments,
and in the fifteenth Chapter.

This is manifestly experimented in
the Muſt or new Wine, which like-
wife

Of Chocolate.

67

wife has three different Substances,
the Terrestrial, which are the Lees;
the Subtlety, which is the Flower or
the Scum thereof; and a third which
is properly the Wine; and each of
these Substances has its different fa-
culties and vertues, in colour, taste,
and in other Accidents. *Aristotle* in
his fourth Book of Meteors, *Chap. I.*
treating of Putrefaction or Rotten-
ness, acknowledgeth these different
Substances; as the more curious, if
they will take the pains, may see at
large in the following Chapter of the
same Author, and so according to the
opinion of Galen and *Aristotle*, diffe-
rent Substances are assigned to each
mixt part, under the same form, and
quantity, which is very agreeable to
reason, if we consider that of each
Aliment, how simple soever it be,
there is produced, and ingendered in
the Liver four humours, not only dif-
ferent in temperament, but also in sub-
stance, and there is ingender'd more
or less of such a humour, according as
such an aliment has more or less parts
conformable to the substance of the
humour, which will be produced in a
greater

68 Of Chocolate.

greater quantity: And so to cold dif-
eafes we order hot food, and to hot
we preſcribe cool.

From these so evident examples,
and from divers others, one may ga-
ther, that when the Cacao is pounded
and beaten, the Substances which it
has naturally different, in it divers
parts are so artificially, and exactly
mingled and joyned, the one with the
other, the fat and buttery, hot and
moist, with the terrestrial, cold, and
dry, (as is aforefaid of the Steel) that
these last are quelled and corrected, so
that they are no longer so aſtringent as
before, but with a mediocrity or mode-
ration more inclining to a hot and
moist temperament of the Air, then
to the cold and dry of the Earth, as is
manifest, when we reduce this Cacao
to a Drink: [Maradon in his Dia-
logue fays it is made like a Spindle
wherewith they Spin the thred in
Spain] for ſcarce can one give two
turns with the Mill, which is an in-
strument of Wood they employ for
that purpose, but you may fee a thick
ſcum, which is a clear proof, that
there are a great many buttery parts
in the Cacao.
By

Of Chocolate.

69

By this above said we manifest, that those Physicians are very much deceived, touching the Chocolate, who affirm, that it causes Obstructions because the Cacao is astringent, as if the costiveness where not enough corrected by the exact mixture of the parts, one with the other; besides, as has been said, the grinding, and there being with the Cacao, so many other ingredients hot of their own Nature, it must necessarily happen, that they work their effects, which is to cut and attenuate, and not at all to stop or obstruct, and certainly there is no need of other examples or doctrines, as a proof to confirm this truth, then that which we see in the very Cacao; the which if it be not pounded, and prepared as we have done in the making of the Chocolate, [as also the eating thereof, as it is in the fruit, by the Spanish women born in the Indies] causes stoppages and notable obstructions by no other reason, but that the divers substances and parts are not so exactly and perfectly mingled together, by the chewing alone, as they are by the artificial grinding which they

use

70 Of Chocolate.

use therein: Furthermore our adverse part ought to confider, and call to mind the firſt Rudiments and Principles of Philosophy, which ſay, that from a particular propofition, & a di- eto ſecundum quid, we muſt not draw from thence a general & ad dictum ſim- pliciter, ſo that it ſerves for nothing, to ſay this man has white teeth, by conſe- quence this man is white ; for it may happen, that a man that has white teeth may be black; in like manner 'tis a foolish thing to ſay the Cacao is aſtrin- gent, that by conſequence therefore the confection which is made thereof and of other ingredients is aſtringent.

The Tree which bears this fruit is ſo delicate, and the ground where it grows ſo excejſively hot, that for fear the Sun ſhould burn and dry it up, they plant there the Plantane or Bono- na tree to be a ſhade, and defence to them, to ſecure them from the par- ching beams of the too near Sun, and when theſe are great, and grown up they plant under them the Cacao Tree, (thoſe Trees the Indian call Athlynam, vul- garly the Mothers of the Cacao ) to the end, that when the young and tender

Tree

Of Chocolate.

71

Tree shall spring up out of the earth,
the others may serve as a Canopy to
them. Its fruit also is not naked, or
uncovered, but ten or twelve Cacao
Nuts are as it were wedged, and in-
closed in the same shell, just like a lit-
tle gourd, as big as an early fig, and
sometimes bigger, of the same colour
and form with the said fig. There be
two sorts of the Cacao, the one is ordi-
narily of a Brown colour inclining to
a reddish, and the other bigger and
larger, called Patl ixte, the which is
great and very drying, and which by
that means keeps persons awake, and
hinders sleeping, and therefore that's
the reason, that this is not so proper
as the ordinary Cacao, and this is all
that can be said, touching this Fruit.

As for the other ingredients which
go to the making of your Confection
of Chocolate, I find many different sorts,
some put therein black Pepper or Ta-
vafco, the which as being very hot and
dry does not agree but with those
whose Liver is very cold. An emi-
nent Doctor of Physick of the Univer-
sity of Mexico is of the same opinion,
who, as likewise a certain Religious
man

72 Of Chocolate.

man, worthy to be credited has affur-
ed me, that it seemeing to him, that
black pepper was not very proper in
Chocolate, to prove his opinion, and to
make manifest that the pepper of Me-
xico, called Chile, is far the better, try-
ed this experiment in the Liver of a
Sheep, in half of which having put
black pepper, and in the other half
pepper of Mexico, in four and twenty
hours he found that part, wherein the
black pepper was, quite dryed up, but
the other, that had the Mexico pepper,
moift and juicy as if nothing had been
put therein.

The Receipt of our Physician of
Merchena to make Chocolate is thus :

Take seven hundred Cacao Nuts, a
pound and a half of white Sugar, two
ounces of Cinnamon, fourteen grains of
Mexico Pepper, call'd Chile or Pimi-
ento, half an ounce of Cloves, three lit-
tle Straws or Vanilla's de Campeche, or
for want thereof, as much Annis-feed as
will equal the weight of a shilling, of
Achiot a small quantity as big as a Fil-
beard, which may be sufficient only to give
it a colour; some add thereto Almonds,
Filbeards, and the Water of Orange
Flowers.

Touch-

Of Chocolate.

73

Touching this Receipt; I affirm firſt of all, that by following this form one cannot fit the infirmities of every man that is indispoſed, but we muſt add thereto or take away according to the neceſſities and temperament of each one. As for the Sugar, though they put thereof when they drink the Chocolate, I do not judge it inconve- nient to mingle therewith the quan- tity which I ſhall name. The Ladies also, and Gentlewomen of Mexico, make little delicate Cakes of Chocolate for daintineſs, which are ſold likewife in the Shops, to be eaten juſt as Sweet- Meats.

The Cloves which the ſame Au-
thor uſes in this compoſition are not
allowed by thofe that well understand
the manner of making this Drink;
grounded perhaps on this reaſon, that
they bind the belly, though they have
the property to correct the ſtinking
breath, and ill ſmell of the mouth, as
is ſhewn by a learned perſon in these
Verſes,

Fætorem emendant oris Carisophila fædum
Conſtringunt ventrem primaq; membra ju-
vant. E that

74

Of Chocolate,

that is to say, that Cloves make a sweet breath, stop the loofnes of the Belly, and eases the Stomack, when it is troubled with a hard digestion.

And so these Cloves being astringent, one ought not to make use of them, altho' they be hot and dry in the third degree, and though it aids the parts of Concoction, as is showed in those Verses.

Every body uses in this confection and puts therein certain little straws, or as the Spaniards call them *Vanillas de Campeche*. The Description of which I have not seen in any Author, nor of the Plant which produces them, they seem to have deduced their Name from a certain Town call'd *Campeche*, which is in the Province of Yucatan in New Spain, as likewise a kind of Brasil wood, which they call the Wood of Campeche, which the Dyers employ very much in their trade, and of which there is great abundance brought into Europe. They fetch it from the West Indies, and are of an opinion that it is gathered from a little shrub called *Cucur aqua*, by the Tarasquains, and *Quammochetl Xuitzquahuitl* by the Mexicans.

Of Chocolate.

75

Mexicans; but this Wood has nothing of affinity with our Vanilla's which are used in making the Chocolate, the which are very pleasant to the fight; they have the smell as it were of Fennel, and perhaps not much different in quality, for all hold that they do not heat too much, and do not hinder the adding Annis-feed, as the Authour of Merchena seems to intimate in his Receit: It being certain that they never make Chocolate without Annis-feed, for being hot in the third degree it is very proper in many cold distempers, and allays the coldness of the Cacao Nut, and to the end that you may know for what cold Members it may be useful and necessary I will here repeat the Verses of a curious person;

Morbosos renes, Vesicam, guttura, Vulvam Intestina, jecur, cumq; liene caput Confortat, variisq; anisum subdita morbis Membra, istud tantum vim leve semen habet.

Which in English is, the Annis-feed through its sovereign Vertue cures, the diseased and infected Kidneys, the

E 2

Tjoint,

76

Of Chocolate.

Throat, the Bladder, the Matrice, the Members brought under and weakned with divers dilleaes, so great is the force and power of that little inconfiderable Seed :

The *Achiote* is a certain dye or tincture drawn from a fruit-Tree which some call *Achiotl* others *Changuarica*, and others *Pamaqua*, take it as it is described by Francis Ximenes in the fifth book at the third Chapter, it is says he a Tree, in greatneſs, body, and shape very like the *Orange* Tree, its Leaves are like thole of the *Elm* in Colour and roughneſs, its Bark, Body, and Branches are reddith drawing to a Green, its flowers are large, diſtinguified or divided into five Leaves in the shape of a Star, of a whitith Purple Colour, its fruit is like the outward *Shell* of a *Cheſnut*, of the form and bigneſs of a little green *Almond*, Quadrangular or four Square, which being ripe opens it ſelf, containing certain grains or Stones like thole of the *Raisins*, but much, more round. The Savages and Natives of the Country have it in great Eſteem; and Plant it near their houſes,

tis

Of Chocolate.

77

'tis green all the year round, and bears
its Fruit in Spring time, at which time
they have a custome to lop it, for
out of its wood they Strike Fire as
with a Flint stone, its bark is very
proper to make Ropes, which shall be
stronger than that which is made of
Hemp it self, of its feed they make
a Crimson red tincture, which the
Painters imploy in their Colours, they
make use of it also in Physick, for
being of a cold quality, and being
drunk with some Water of the same
Nature, or applied to the outward
parts, allays the ardour and burning
of the Feaver, hinders the Dysenterie
or griping of the Guts, lastly they mix
it with great profit and succeds in all
the cooling potions, whence it hap-
pens that they mix it with the drink
of Chocolate to cool, and to give it a
taste and fine colour, fed bæc obiter.
Now this Achiote in the quantity of
a Nut is not sufficient to Colour so
great a quantity of ingredients con-
tained in the receit, that must be left
to the Judgement of him that com-
poses this confection, who shall use as
much as he shall think sufficient to give
it a good Colour.

It

78

Of Chocolate.

It is no small good to add thereto Almonds, (Here our Author speaking of Almonds, means those of the Indies and not our European ones, the description of which we will give you, as Joseph Acofta has it in his Natural History, Book 39. Chap. 26. Of Indian Almonds. There is another kind of Cacao's which have in their Shell a number of small nuts like Almonds, of the shape of the Pomegranate grains, these Almonds are three times as big as those of Castile, and resemble them in taste, altho they are a little more rough, and are also humide, moist, and oyly; tis a reasonable good food, they do also use it in Sweet meats for want of Almonds to make March-panes, and other such like things, they call them Almonds of the Andes, because these Cacao's grow abundant on the high Mountains call'd the Andes in Peru, and they are so hard and strong, that to open them they are wont to strike them with a huge Stone with all their force; when they fall from the Tree if they meet with the head of any one they will hinder his journey from going further. And it seems to be

a

Of Chocolate.

79

a thing incredible, that in the crevices
or hollow of these Cacao's, which are
not bigger, or but little more than
the others there should be such a vaft
number and quantity of those Almonds;
but concerning these Almonds, both
these and all the other Fruits in like
manner, must give place to the Almonds
de Chachapoyas, which I know not
how otherwise to name: This Fruit is
the most wholsome delicate and dainty
of all that I ever saw in the Indies:
Even a Learned Philosopher assured me
that amongst all the fruits which are
found either in the Indies or in Spain
none came near the excellence of these
Almonds. There be some of these that
be bigger, others less than those of
the Andes, yet all of them are bigger
than them of Castile. They are very
tender, have very much substance
and juyce, very oyly, and very agree-
able to the taste; they grow upon
high tall Trees, very thick of leaves,
and as it is a precious thing, Nature
has beftowed on it a coverture and de-
fence almost impregnable, it has a
Skin or Shell something bigger and
more pointed than that of a Chestnut,
neverthe-

80 Of Chocolate.

nevertheles, when this is dry they get
the Kernel out very easily. They
report that the Apes which are very
greedy and desirous of this fruit, of
which Creature the Country of *Chapoyas* in *Peru* does greatly abound,
(which is the only Country I know
of, that has this sort of Tree) who
to break the Shell and to get the *Almond* from thence, they strongly throw
it from the tops of the boughs upon
the stones, and so having broken it,
they make an end of eating it at their
pleasure. The *Filbeards* also are far
better than the *Maiz* or *Panis* which
some are wont to put therein to give
a better body, and strength to the
Composition, and therefore I would
use them in all forts of *Chocolate*, for
besides all the commodities, and ad-
vantages, which I have here before
counted, they are moderately hot and
have a delicate juice, especially the
dry ones, the green and the new be-
ing in no wife proper, but rather
hurtful according as a *Learned man*
has expressed in these Veres

Dat

Of Chocolate.

81

Dat modicum calidum dulcifque amygdala
succum.

Et tenuem inducant plurima damna nove.

Then the Filberts are not unnecesfa-
ry, Christopher Acofta in his book Of
Spices Chap. 18 describes the In-
dian Filberts after this manner: The
Tree is a very great Tree, strait,
smooth, round, and of a spungy
matter or substance, its leaves are
longer and larger then that of the
Palm Tree which bears the Cacao's, and
which bud out of the very top of
the Tree, amongst which there spring
out little smooth branches, full of
small white flowers, and almost with-
out any smell, whence proceeds the
fruit called Arecá, as big as Wallnuts,
yet not altogether round, but Oval
in the form or shape of a little Pul-
lets egg, the outward Skin is won-
derfully green before it becomes ripe,
being ripe it becomes very yellow, like
Dates that are fully ripe; this Skin or
Shell is of a soft and Shaggy sub-
stance, which contains a Kernel as big
as a large Chefnut, white, hard, and
full of little red Veins, which the in-
habi-

82 Of Chocolate,

habitants eat; being yet green they put
it under the Sand, to render it bet-
ter and more agreeable to the taste,
sometimes they eat it mixt with the
leaves of Bethel, other times they
break it, and dry it in the Sun, and
afterwards make great use thereof in
their eating, and in their astringent
potions, with the Skin they clean
their Teeth. There is another kind
of Filbert which grows in the Isle
of St. Dominico, which is purgative,
but this is not that they mix with
the Chocolate. These Filberts there-
fore I lay, are not altogether unuseful,
since that they have the same tempe-
rament or Nature with the Almonds
though being dryer, they come more
near to a Chollerick temperament, but
they have also this good, they corre-
borate the Stomach, and Belly being
well dryed before the fire, and as it
were broyled, as they Prepare it for
this composition: moreover they hin-
der the fumes of the Stomach from
rising up into the Brains as the same
Author writes.
(vum

Bilis Avellanam sequitur, sed roborat al-
Ventris & a frnmis liberat affa caput.

That

Of Chocolate.

83

That is to say, the *Filbert* engenders melancholly humours, but it strenghens the weak Stomach, and being well rofted, allays and depreffes those fumes which would otherwise disturb the brains, and it is therefore very necessary for those that are troubled with Windines, and Fumes, which from the Spleen rife up into the brain, and fill the head with turbulent dreams, and frightful imaginations. Those that mix Maiz or Panich in the Chocolate do very ill for they beget bilious and melancholy humours as is evident from the said Author,

Craffa Melancholicum præstant tibi panica succum.

Siccant si ponas membra gelantque foris.

It is very certain that both the one and the other begets Choler and Windines, and that they do not make use of this ingredient but for their own profit and to augment the quantity of the Chocolate, each buſhel of Maiz coſting them but eight Shillings, bringing each pouud to four Shillings which

84 Of Chocolate.

which is the true price of the Cho-
colate.

This which the Indians call Maiz
we call Indian or Turky-Wheat,
which being so common amongst us
there is no need to treat thereof a-
ny further, yet I cannot forbear to
mention that of Francis Ximenes in
his third Book Chap. 7. who seems to
contradict our Author speaking of
it very advantageously in these terms.
The difference of the Maiz is in the
Colour of its ears, (which the Vulgar
call Mazereas) of which there is a
great difference, for some are of a
white Colour, others red, there be
some that are almost black, others
purple, blew, and diversified or
sprinkled with divers Colours, which
is to be understood of the upper
skin, for the flower of each is white;
as to the rest if there be any Corn
that God has made of a temperate
quality and great nourishment with-
out doubt it is the Maiz ( which
the Mexicans call Theolli ) for it is
neither hot, nor cold, but a mean
hetwixt both, as also neither moist,
nor dry, but equally participating of
both

Of Chocolate.

85

both temperaments, far from being
of a groſs and Vifcuous nouriſhment,
as ſome have imagined: They alſo
are very much deceiv'd that affix
it begets obſtructions, but one may
clearly ſee the contrary in the Sava-
ges, who live upon it and are alto-
gether unacquainted with opilations,
and obſtructions, and are never
troubled with a pale and ſickly com-
plexion, but they affure us that it is
of an eafe digestion, and ſharpers
the Appetite: That even before the
coming of the Spaniards they never
knew what were the paim of the Stone
or Gravel in the Kidneys, in fine the Sa-
vages have not a better and more expe-
dient remedy than this to refilt the ſharp
diseaſes, the which experience does
ſufficiently tefſifie, for Maiz boyled in
Water does abundantly nouriſh the
body, and is digeſtéd without any
trouble or difficulty, it qualifies and
ſoftens the breaſt, mitigates the heat
or burning of Feavers; chiefly the pow-
der of its Root, ſteept in Water, and
expoſed to the cold of the Evening
and afterwards drunk. Then this
Maiz boyled is not only a laudable
and

86 Of Chocolate.

and wholefom food, but it may alſo
be given without fear as well to thoſe
that are ſick, as to thoſe that are in
good health; to young as well as to
Old; to Men and to Women of what
condition ſoever they be, and laſtly
it may be uſed in all Diftempers with-
out any hurt, or trouble, they ſay
moreover that it provokes Urine, and
cleanſes the Pipes. Then ſince that the
Maiz, uſed as it ought to be, brings
along with it a thouſand Commodi-
ties, and no dammages (unleſs as ſome
affirm it breeds too much Blood and
choler) one ought not to hearken to
thoſe who affirm that it is hotter than
our ordinary wheat, that it is difficul-
tly digeſted, and that it begets Ob-
structions, let us rather follow the
Mexican Phyſitians, who having reje-
cted the Ptisana or Barly broth, as
troubleſom, to the diſtempered perſons
have conſtituted in its place, the A-
tolle of which we will ſpeak hereaſ-
ter, I'le paſs over in ſilence the manner
of making the bread of Maiz as be-
ing nothing to our purpose, and too
much a digreſſion; the other thing is
the Panick or Indian Oatmeal, which is

a

Of Chocolate.

87

a small grain like unto millet with a
knob full of Corn, though the vulgar
European *Panick* is not here meant,
but that which grows in the *Indies*,
which if the Reader has a mind to
fatisfie his curiositý he shall find more
at large defcribed by *Dodonné* in the
fourth part of his Hiftory *Of Plants*
book the 7. Chap. 26. and by *Dalechart*
in the great *Herbalſt* book 4. Chap.20.
The next ingredient is the Cinnamon,
but it seems our Author means the Cin-
namon of the *West-Indies*, and not that
of the *Eaſt-Indies*, which was unknown
in *New-Spain* before the Spaniards
had discovered it. This Cinnamon
is defcribed by *Monardes* in his Hi-
ſtory *Of Plants* Chap. 25. *Laet* in his
tenth Book Chap.26. ſays that the
Cinnamon Tree is as big as the O-
live Tree, producing certain little pur-
fes with their Flowers, which being
pounded, come near in some ſort to
the *Eaſt-Indian* Cinnamon. *Monardes*
takes notice that they do rather make
uſe of their Fruit than of their bark,
and that being beaten to a powder
they fortifie the Stomach, diſperſe the
Wind, make good breath, take away
the

88 Of Chocolate.

the pains of the belly, comforts the heart gives a good Colour to the food being mixt therewith just like the true Cinnamon. This Cinnamon therefore is hot and dry in the third degree, it is good for the Urine and the reins, expels cold distempers, 'tis also useful for the eyes, and in effect it is a Cordial as a certain Author says.

(bus affert.

Commoda & urine Cinnamomum & rene-Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat.

The Achiote [the Virtue which our Author attributes to the Achiote is different from what Ximenes reports thereof, for the one holds it to be refreshing, the other that it heats, yet it is not of great importance whatsoever is the quality thereof confidering the small quantity that is made use of in the Chocolate] has a cutting and attenuating heat, as is evident by the ordinary practice of the Indian Physicians, who having proved its effects do judge it to be cutting, and rarifying the gross humours, causing shortness of breath, which they call Asthma and the stoppage of the Urine and

90 Of Chocolate.

and hanging like Grapes, which
at first are green, a while after red,
and at last black, of a sharp and biting
taste, and of a good smell, hot and dry
in the third degree, so that it may be
used instead of Pepper, the Apothecaries
may employ it to the same use as Carpo
balsamum, the Spaniards call it pepper
of Tavafco. I affirm that there be thereof
four Sorts: The first are called Chil-
cotes, the second, which are very lit-
tle, Chiltecpin, which two sorts are ve-
ry sharp and mordicant; the third are
called Tonachiles, which are moderate-
ly hot, so that they eat them with bread
just as they do other fruit, although
they have a bitterish taste; and they
grow no where but in the Marshes of
Mexico, the fourth sort is called Chil-
patlagua, which was a kind of Chiles
or Pimientos very large, they are not
so biting as the two former, nor so
mild as the third, and they are those
which are used in Chocolate.

There be other ingredients that they
put into this composition, the chief of
which they call Mecafuchil. This
Plant is described by Laet in his fifth
Book, Chap. 4. There is an Herb
(he

Of Chocolate.

91

( he says ) by name *Mecaxuchitl* creeping upon the earth, whose leaves are great, thick, and almost round, sweet-smelling, and of a sharp taste, it bears a fruit like long pepper, the which they mix with the drink of the *Cacao*, call'd *Chocolate*, to which it gives an agreeable favour, it corroborates the heart and the Stomach, attenuates the thick and slow humours, and is an excellent Medicine, and Antidote against poison, its other vertues, as likewise the figure of its fruit, are more fully set out by *Jean Eusebe*, Book 14. chap. 62. Another ingredient is the *Vinacaxtli*, but here I fear mine Author may be deceived, or that there has been a mistake in the Printing, and instead of *Vinacaxtli*, he should have put *Huclimacutzli*, which is a Tree the flower whereof is called by the Spaniards, *Flor de la Oreja*, or Flower of the ear, because of its near resemblance with the ear: It is composed, sayes *Laet lib. 5.cap. 4*. of purple Flowers within, and green without, it is of a very sweet and pleasant smell, the name *Xuchinacutzli* in our Language signifies little ears, which are flowers odoriferous,

Aromatick

92 Of Chocolate,

aromatick and hot. The *Mecafuchil* is purgative, and the *Indians* make thereof a purging Syrup. Thoſe that live in Europe for went of *Mecafuchil* may put therein powder of Roses of *Alexandria*, for thoſe that have a mind to loosen their belly. There be two other ingredients of which our Author being filent we are forc'd to supply his defect, the one is the flower of a certain pitchy or roſi'ny tree, which yeilds a gum like that of the *Storax*, but of a finer colour, its flower is like that of the Orange tree, of a good ſmell, which they mix with the *Chocolate*, and repute it good for the ſtomack; the other ingredient is the Chale or cod of the *Tlixochitl*, which is a creeping herb having leaves like the Plantane, but longer, and thick, it climbs up to the top of the trees, and intwines it ſelf with them, and bears a Chale long, ſtrait, and as it were round, which ſmells of the balm of new Spain, they mix this Chale with their famous drink of *Cacao*: their pith is black full of little ſeeds, like that of the poppy, they ſay that two of these steept

94

Of Chocolate.

THE
SECOND PART.

IN this Second Part, we must observe that though they mix with the Cacao, all these hot ingredients, yet for all that the quantity of the Cacao is greater than all the rest, so that the others serve only to allay, and temperate the coldness of the Cacao, so that of two medicaments of contrary qualities, we artificially compote one, which is temperate, and moderate, just so by the action and reaction of the cold parts of the Cacao, the Chocolate receives a temperate and moderate quality, very little different from a mediocrity or mean between both, and when we shall venter to say that ( in leaving out of the Chocolate, both pepper and cloves, and only putting therein a little annis-feed, as we will then hereafter ) it is purely temperate, perience,

Of Chocolate.

95

we are able to prove it both by ex-
perience and reason: First by experi-
ence; (supposing that which Galen
says, That every temperate Medica-
ment heats that which is cold, and
cools that which is hot, giving for
example the Oyl of Roses) with experi-
ence I say, grounded on the practice and
custom which they have amongst them,
in the Indies, for (I coming very much
heated to visit one of my Patients,
when I desired some water of them
to cool my self) they advised me to
take a Disth of Chocolate, with which
I quenched my thirst, but taking it
the next morning faesting it heated
me and fortified my Stomack. Now
let us prove this opinion by reason,
we have before demonstrated that
all the parts of the Cacao were not
cold; for we have shew'd, that the
buttery and oyly parts, which are in
great number are hot, or at least tem-
perate. Then although it be true,
that the quantity of the Cacao put in-
to the Chocolate is greater and stronger
than all the other ingredients together,
the cold parts which correspond
therewith do not amount at furtheft
but

96 Of Chocolate.

but to the moyety, and so that altho
all together come to surpaſs it, ſeeing
that it remains ſomthing allayed, by the
grinding, or rubbing together, by the
means of the hot and buttery parts
of the Cacao, and again on the other-
ſide by the other ingredients that are
hot in the ſecond and third degree, it
muſt needs be reduced to a mediocri-
ty. Juſt as we ſee in two perſons,
that joyn their hands together, where-
of the hands of the one are cold, and
the others hot, thoſe that are hot
grow cold, and the cold hot, and fi-
nally both the one and the other, re-
main without that exceſs of heat, or cold
which they had before, and at laſt
become temperate.

Like this does it happen to thoſe
that wraſtle, at firſt they have their
Forces ſtrong and entire, but at laſt,
by the action and reaſction of the two
adverſaries ſtriving together, they en-
ſeeble and weaken themſelves, so that
the wraſtling being ended, they remain
weakned both the one and the other.
'Tis the opinion of *Ariſtote*, in the
fourth Book *Of the generation of Ani-
mals*, Chap. 3. He ſays, that every A
gent

Of Chocolate.

97

gent suffers as the Patient, so that we
see, that which cuts is blunted by the
thing that is cut, that that which
heats is cooled, and that which push-
eth or thrusteth is in some manner
thrust back and repulsed. Hence I
gather, that it is better to make use
of the Chocolate sometime after it has
been made than to take of it whilst new
and fresh, but you must let it stand at the
least a whole month together, for I
judge so long time to be necessary,
and very expedient, to the end that
the contrary qualities may weaken
and spend themselves, and be reduced
to a convenient temperament and me-
diocrity; for it might happen that in
the beginning each contrary would
imprets and work its effect, and na-
ture cannot endure to be heated and
cooled at the same time.

That is therefore the Reason that
Galen in his Twelfth Book of the Me-
thod, advises us to tarry a whole year,
or at least six months, before we make
use of the *Philonium*, because in its com-
position there is put the juyce of Pop-
pies called *Opium*, which is cold in the
fourth degree, and Pepper with other

F

in-

98 Of Chocolate.

ingredients, that are hot in the third degree. And this doctrine is confirmed by the practice of several learned Physicians, whom I have desired to inform me which was the best Chocolate, they presently answered me, that which has been kept several months, and the fresh and newly made Chocolate, did do them a great deal of hurt, and did very much soothen and relax their Stomach, which in my opinion is very probable; for the fat and buttery parts, are not altogether corrected by the earthy parts of the Cacao, which I will prove by the reason I shall bring hereafter, that if you should take a dish of Chocolate to drink, that which is thick and buttery thereof separates it self from the rest, and relaxes the Stomach, ( although it be old) as if it were but just made.

Therefore to conclude this Second Part, we must acknowledge that the Chocolate is not so cold as the Cacao, nor is it so hot as the other ingredients, but from the action and reaction thereof, there proceeds a moderate complexion, or temper which may agree with, and serve as well for the stomachs

Of Chocolate.

99

Stomachs that be cold, as those that are hot, provided it be took in an in-different quantity, as I will show you by and by, and that it has been made a whole month, as is said before, so that I know not any one, who having experimented this confection (made as it is convenient for every individual) can speak ill thereof, or in any wife discommend it: besides that all the world generally using it, there is scarce any one, that does not highly approve of it, through all Europe, as well as in the Indies. I know not therefore what reason any one has to say that Chocolate causes obstructions, for if it should be so, and the Liver become obstructed, it would bring a leanness on all the Body, but experience teaches us the contrary, for we see nothing fattens more than Chocolate, whereof I will give the reason hereafter, and so much for this Second Part. Proceed we now to the Third.

F 2

THE

100

Of Chocolate.

THE
THIRD PART.

IN the First Part having treated of Chocolate, and given you the definition thereof, as likewise the quality of the Cacao, and the other ingredients: And in the Second of the temperature or complexion, which results from the mixture of the said ingredient. In this third Part it remains to show you how they mix it: But first I judge it not unnecessary to give you the best receipt thereof, and the most convenient I could find, and tho I have said before, that it is impossible to give a Receipt, that may be proper and agreeable to all sort of Persons, but that is meant for those that are diftempered, and not well in health; for to those that are in good health, this here is most fit and convenient; but for the others (as I have shewed at the end of the First part) each one may choose the ingredients according as they shall be most needful to one or other diftempered part of his

body

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101

body. This therefore is the Receipt,

With each hundred of Cacao's you must mingle two grains of Chile, or Pepper of Mexico, of those great Grains which we have elsewhere told you are called Chilpatlagua, and for want of them they use to take two Indian Pepper corns, the largest and the least hot that you can find, or if you can get them the Pimiento's of Spain, a handful of Annis-feed, two of those Flowers called Xuchinachutzli or little ears, and two others named Mecasuchil, if there be need to loosen the Belly. In Spain instead of these last they are want to use the powder of six Roses of Alexandria, vulgarly called pale Roses, a little Bean Cod or Vanilla de Campeche, two drams of Cinnamon, a dozen of Almonds, and as many Filberts, half a pound of Sugar, such a quantity of Achiote as shall be sufficient to colour the whole composition.

## The way of making Chocolate.

The Cacao and the other ingredients are pounded and beaten on a Stone, which the Indians call Metatl, made for that purpose. The first thing they

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be-

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Of Chocolate.

begin to do is to broyl well, and carefully to dry before the fire all the ingredients ( except the *Achiote*) to the end that they may be easily pounded and broken, but in the broyling of them before the fire, there must be great heed taken, that they be often turned and flirr'd about, for fear of burning or becoming black; besides which, they being too much done, lose their vertue and receive a bitter taste. The Cinnamon and the Pepper of Mexico ought to be first pounded, and the latter of them should be beaten together with the Annis feed: The Cacao is that which is to be last of all beaten, but by little and little, till you think there is so much as may be sufficient for your purpose, and every time you must give it three or four turns in the Mortar. You must also take care that every one is beaten severely, and by it self, having beaten all these ingredients to a fine powder, you put them altogether in a Vessel, where the Cacao is, and these powders they stir and mix with a spoon, and presently they take of this past, which they begin again to pound in the

Of Chocolate. 103

Mortar ( or rather if they have it the forementioned Stone ) under which they make a gentle fire, taking special heed, that they do not make it too great and too quick, nor that you heat it too much, for fear of scattering and dissipating the buttery parts. You must also take notice, that in pounding the Cacao you mix the Achiote therewith, to the end that you may give it a better colour, and the texture may remain, and be the better implanted therein. The Powder of each ingredient, except that only of the Cacao must be well sifted, and if you peel the Cacao, and take it out of its little shell, the drink thereof will be more dainty and delicious. Then when all shall seem to be well mixed and incorporated (the which you may easily know if you find it without the least straw or lump) you shall take with a spoon of this mass, which will be almost all melted and dissolved (whereof they make little Cakes) and put into boxes, which by that time it is cold will become hard and firm. You must observe neverthelessthat to make these Cakes they throw

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a

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Of Chocolate.

a spoonful of the Liquor on some paper, or as in the Indies on some great leaves, like those of the Plane-Tree, our Author means here the Indian plane-tree and not that of Europe, for the Platanus of the Indies was so named by the Spaniards for reasons that are unknown to us, for it has no resemblance with our Plane-tree, but it is rather like the Palm tree, as well in shape as in the bigness of the leaves, which are so large, that they cover a man from head to foot. This also observable, that these leaves serve for the same use as paper with us: But to the purpose; two or three spoonfuls being thus put on one of these leaves, and set in the shade, do soon grow hard, and afterwards folding or doubling the paper, those Cakes, as being very fat, are easily separated from the paper: But if you should pour it into some earthen Vessel, or on some board it is not easy to unfasten those Cakes, or get them off whole.

They drink this liquor in the Indies two ways, of which the first and most ordinary is to take it hot with Atholle, an ancient Drink of the Indians, who call

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105

call by this name, a Drink made of
the flower of *Maiz*, well steept in
Water, and boyl'd to a clear Liquor,
or rather like starch; but there be o-
ther different forts thereof which are
excellently well descripted by *Laet* in
his 7th. Book Chap. 3. which the cu-
rious may consult at their leaure :
That discourse being too great a di-
gression to be here inferted. With
this Liquor the Indians mix their
*Chocolate*, and to make it more whol-
fom they clear the *Maiz*, by taking
away the upper skin, which is Windy,
and begets melancholick humours ,
and so there remains the best and
most substantial thereof: Return we
now to the second manner, of ta-
king it, which is the modern and has
been introduced since the Spaniards
have made use of this *Chocolate*, the
which is also two fold.

The first is to steep or dissolve the
*Chocolate* in cold Water, and to take
off the scum which they put into a-
nother dish, then to set the remainder
over the fire, putting therein as much
Sugar as you shall judge convenient
to sweeten it, and latly it being hot

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and

106 Of Chocolate.

and having mixed the Scum there-
with, which you had set apart, you
may drink it. Before I give you the
other way of making this Liquor
twill not be amiss to describe the
Cup or Goblet wherein they drink
the Chocolate, made of Xicara, or Co-
co, which the Mexicans call Tecomates.
They also make them of the fruit of a
certain Tree call'd by the Spaniards Hi-
guero, the Tree is very big, which bears
leaves in shape and largeness like to
our Mulberry Tree, and has a fruit
like the gourd, whereof the Savages
make Cups to drink their Chocolate,
as to the Palms which bear these Co-
co's I have nothing to say to them,
which yet are one of the stupendious
Miracles of Nature, I shall only take
notice with the Learned Doctor Pa-
Indanus, in his remark on the Voyage
of Linschot, that the Coco is covered
with two barks, the first whereof is
rough, and hairy, of which they
make the Cables and Cordage of a
Ship, of the next Shell they make these
Cups; the common opinion being that
these Cups have an innate vertue (of
which the Chocolate being put therein

par-

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107

participates) againft the Apoplexy.
Sed hæc obiter. To the purpose there-
fore. The Second way of preparing
this liquor is to heat the water, put-
ing into this forementioned Cup, as
much Chocolate as is thereto necessary,
and withal a little water, then work-
ing the Chocolate and incorporating it
till it be well mixt, and diffolv'd all
in the Cup, put the rest of your hot
water with some Sugar therein, and
so drink it: Thus in Spain. But we
in England usually boyl the Chocolate
with the water, and some to make it
more dainty, though kefs wholesome,
uſe therein Eggs and Milk. There is
yet another way, something different
from this former, for they boyl both
the Chocolate and water together till
there ſwims at top a fat buttery sub-
ſtance, taking care, that there is not
too great a fire to make it boyl over:
But this way I do in no wſe approve
of, for the fat ſeparating it ſelf from
the earthy parts, this ſinks to the bot-
tom, and the other keeps at top, so
that being thus drunk, the firſt loofens
the ſtomack, and takes away the appe-
tite, and the latter cauſes melancho-
ly, &c.

There-

108 Of Chocolate.

There is another way of making this drink of Chocolate, which is cold, which takes its name from its principal ingredient, and is therefore called Chocolate, whereof they take to refresh themselves, and is made after this manner. They steep the Chocolate powder'd into a little water, working it well with the little Mill, whence they abstract a very large flcum, which is so much the more augmented by how much the Cacao is more old, and rotten, this flcum they put into a dish a part, mixing therewith a sufficient quantity of Sugar, which done they set it up for their use, and drink it cold, when they find they have need thereof, but it is to be understood, that they do not take this fort in Winter, but in the greatest heat of Summer, yet thus prepared it is to extraordinary cooling, that it does not agree with all stomachs, for experience shows the ill thereof, it causing distempers in the stomach, and cheifly to Women. I would here give you the cause and reason thereof, but I shall omit it, that I may not seem too prolix, and to trespas on the Reapers patience.

There

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109

There is also another way of drinking it cold, which is prepared by calling it Cacao Pinoli, it is made in adding to the same Chocolate (after having made the confection as we have shewed) an equal quantity of Maïz parcht and pounded, but first well cleared of its skin, the which being beaten in the Mortar with the Chocolate becomes a powder and minables it self with the other, and of the powders managed as we shewed just before arises a Scum which they also take and use as the precedent drink.

There is yet another shorter then the former ('Tis the same with ours) and therefore more fit for men of businesses, who have not the leaure to attend a longer preparation, the which is very wholefom, and 'tis that I make use of my self; whillt you let on the water to boyl, you must take a Cake of Chocolate, which you may either pound in the Mortar, or rather grateit to a fine powder, mixing it with some Sugar, in a little pot, the water being hot you mult pour the Chocolate therein, then taking it from the

IIo Of Chocolate.

the fire, work it well with your little
Mill, and for want of that, brew it a
score times, out of one pot into ano-
ther, which yet does not so well in-
corporate it as the Mill ; this being
done, let it be drunk without separa-
ting from it the scum, as is usual in
the aforeaid preparations.

THE

Of Chocolate.

III

THE
FOURTH PART

IN this last part it remains to show
you in what quantity the Chocolate
is to be drunk, in what time we
must make use thereof, and to what
persons 'tis most proper, and agreea-
ble, for some using it too excessively,
I do not mean only Chocolate, but
also all sorts of food and Liquors,
how good and excellent soever the
things are in their own Nature, do
thence receive great incommodities,
and mischiefs, and if some persons
do complain, that it caues obstructions,
'tis by reason of the excessive
use thereof; just so we see Wine,
which if excessively drunk instead of
heating, breeds oftentimes cold Di-
stempers, Nature not being able to
furmount nor turn in its substance so
great a quantity thereof; so likewise
those that drink too much Chocolate,
since

112 Of Chocolate.

since that it has several fat parts,
which cannot disperse themselves in
the same quantity through all the bo-
dy, it must necessarily follow that
obstructions are caused by those which
remain in the little veins of the Li-
ver, which may be remedied, if a
Man will content himself with five
or six ounces only of Chocolate in the
Winter time, and if he that takes
thereof is bilious and subject to me-
lancholly, instead of drinking it with
common water let him use therewith
Endive water, the same thing is to
be done in the Summer, by those
that would take it as a medicine a-
gainst the obstructions and hot Di-
stempers of the Liver; but he that is
troubled with the coldness of Liver,
and full of obstructions shall take the
same Chocolate with water of Rhubarb.

In fine it may be safely (if regu-
larly) used as long as till the month
of May, especially if the air be tem-
perate, but I do not at all approve
the use thereof during the Dog-days,
unless by those to whom it will do
no hurt by reason of an habitual
custom and continual use thereof.

Then

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113

Then if any one stands in need there-
of, even in the Dog-days, and if he
be of an hot constitution, he shall take
it mixt with Endive Water, from
four days to four days, especially if in
the morning he finds his Stomach to
be weak, and feeble. And although
it be very true, that in the Indies,
which is a very hot Country they
take it at all times, and that by con-
sequence one might do the fame in
Spain and in our other European
Countries, which are far lefs hot, ne-
verthelefs I anſwer thereto, that firſt
we muſt attribute that to Custom.
In the ſecond place that the excejſive
heat of thofe Countries being joynt-
ly annexed to an excejſive moſtneſs,
which helps to open the pores of the
Body it happens oftentimes that there
follows ſo great a diffipation or ſpen-
ding of the proper ſubſtance of the
Body, that one might not only make
uſe of Chocolate in the morning, but
also all day long, without any injury
or detriment. And it is alſo as true,
that by the excejſive heat of the
Country the Natural heat is waſted,
and exhaled, and that the heat of
the

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Of Chocolate.

the Stomach and other interiour parts
of the body so extend, and spread
themselves to the exterior, that not-
withstanding this excess of heat the
stomach remains cold, so that they
receive great profit and advan-
tage not only from Chocolate (the
which as we have proved is mode-
rately hot) but also from pure Wine,
the which, though it be very hot does
no hurt, but on the contrary, rather
fortifies, and cherishes the Stomach;
but if amongst these excessive heats,
the Indians should drink Water, they
would receive notable detriments by
the coolness, which it would cause
in the Stomach, whereby the con-
coction would be corrupted, and pro-
duce several other bad Distempers.

You must take notice also, that
the terrestrial parts, which we have laid
are in Cacao, sink to the bottom of the
Cup, when you boyl your Chocolate,
yet there be some who think that
which falls to the bottom is the best
and most substantial of all, and there-
fore those that drink thereof do un-
dergo great danger; but besides that
this substance is earthy, thick, ob-
structive

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115

fstructive, it breeds melancholy humours, so that we must avoid it as much as we can, contenting our selves with the best which is the most substantial. Lastly it remains to resolve one difficulty which I have lively touched here before, that is to say, what is the Cause that Chocolate does so much fatten those that drink thereof? For if we consider all the ingredients except the Cacao, we shall find that their quality is rather to extenuate; and make lean the body, than to fatten, as being all hot and dry, in the third degree. The qualities likewise of the Cacao, as we have shewed you in the beginning, being cold and dry are altogether unfit to cause fatness. I affirm however that the great quantity of buttery parts, which I have proved to be in the Cacao, are those which fatten, and that the hot ingredients of this composition, serve instead of a Pipe or Conduit to derive it, and make it pass by the Liver, and the other parts till they arrive at the fleshy parts: Where finding a substance which is like and conformable to them, to wit:

116 Of Chocolate.

wit hot and moist, such as are these
buttery parts, converting themselves
into the substance of the subject they
augment, and fatten it. One might
say several others things drawn
from the fountain of Philosophy and
Physick, but as being more fit for the
Schools than for our discourse we
shall omit them. I shall only take no-
tice that to my Receipt one might add
the Seeds of a Melon, Gourd or Valenzia
(I could never find out what sort of
drug this Valenzia is, however one may
venter to say it is of the same Nature
with the Seeds of a Cucumber,) the
which beat to a powder will be extra-
ordinary good for those that have the
Liver, or the reins excessive hot, and if
there happen any obstructions in the
Liver or Spleen, with a cold intempe-
rature, you may mix amongst the rest
the powder of Harts tongue, or Cete-
rach, and with all these compositions
to give thereto a good odour, you may
put a little Amber-greece or Musk. I
shall receive no small satisfaction if
this little Treatise and Discourse may
be acceptable and agreeable to all the
World.

FINIS.