waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
This is turning into a FAQ   Here is how to violate your Quadra 700 warranty and install your own memory.  1)  Insert usual disclaimer here   2)  Remove the top lid of the machine. You will see the floppy disk and     hard drive mounted in a plastic tower. Follow the usual anti-static     precautions and of course make sure the machine is OFF when you do     this. Unplug the wall and monitor power supply cords from the back 	of the mac.   3)  Remove the power supply by pulling the plastic interlocking tab on the     tower forward and simultaneously pulling the power supply straight up.     The tab is a piece of plastic from the left posterior aspect of the     tower which extends downward to hook on to the power supply. You may     also feel a horseshoe shaped piece at the right portion of the power     supply. Leave that alone. The plastic tab from the tower is all you     need release.   4)  Look at the rear of the tower assembly. You will see the flat ribbon     SCSI connector to the hard drive, a power cable and a flat ribbon cable     leading to the floppy drive. Disconnect all these from the motherboard.     The hard drive power cable connector has a tab which must be squeezed     to release it.                                              5)  Unplug the drive activity LED from its clear plastic mount  6)  Look down the posterior, cylindrical section of the plastic tower. A     phillips head screw is at the base. Remove it, taking care not to drop     it into the case. A bit of gummy glue on your screwdriver is helpful     here.  7)  Remove the tower assembly by pulling medially the plastic tab on the     right side of the tower. This tab prevents the tower from sliding 	posteriorly. Slide the entire tower assembly 1 cm posteriorly then 	lift the tower assembly straight up and out of the case.  8)  Congratulations, you have now gained access to your machine's SIMM     slots.  9)  The six big slots are for VRAM. One usually must install all six to     gain useful video modes. All SIMMS (RAM or VRAM)  installed with their 	chips facing the front of the motherboard. 	     The four smaller sockets in front are for RAM SIMMS. Install SIMMS in 	sets of four into these sockets. Be sure you seat the SIMMS squarely 	and firmly into a fully upright position. 	 10) Reinstall the tower assembly by first placing the right wall of the     tower against the right wall of the case with the tower assembly about 	1 cm posterior of its intended position. Lower the tower assembly into 	place while maintaining contact with the right wall of the case.     Once fully down, slide the tower assembly anteriorly until it clicks     into place. 	 11) Reconnect the motherboard ends of the cables. DONT'T FORGET THE FLOPPY     DRIVE CABLE.  12) Replace the phillips head screw  13) Drop the power supply straight down into place until it clicks in.  14) Plug the hard drive activity light back into its clear plastic mount
In article <generous.734035090@nova>, generous@nova.sti.nasa.gov (Curtis Generous) writes: |>  |> I need to get an Apple 40SC tape backup unit working under |> Sys 7.0.x, but do not have any drivers/software to access |> the device.  Does anyone know where I can fidn the tools |> to access this device? |>  |> Appreciate any info/comments. |>  |> --curtis |> --  |> Curtis C. Generous	generous@sti.nasa.gov		(703) 685-1140 |> NASA STI, Code JTT, Washington, DC 20546
Hi all: Thanks to you all who have responded to my request for info on various kinds of fax modem. I'd like to ask a few more questions. 1.  What are the advantages of buying a global village Teleport Gold over other cheaper brands like Supra, Zoom etc? 2.  I heard that both Supra and Zoom use the same software. Why are there so many complaints about the incompatibility problems of Supra?  What kind of incompatibility is it? 3.  If I decided to buy the Teleport Gold, is there any possibility to add a voice option in the near future? 4.  Has anyone heard of a possible voice option that Supra will offer this coming summer? 5.  A person did mention a new AT&T modem.  Is it getting good reviews from various Mac Magazines? 6.  If I want the best, fastest, most economically sound and possible voice option, what fax modem should I buy?  Sorry for posting so many questions, but I think they're necessary. I promise to repost any answers if they're not already posted by a responder.  Thanks so much in advance.  Regards,
My company has developed an application for the Mac that emulates a chart recorder - virtual pen traces scroll smoothly across the screen.  As we tested the application on a number of computers we discovered some surprising performance differences across products.  The scroll performance of the IIsi and LCII was better than the IIfx. This led us to investigate Color Quickdraw performance across the Apple line.  The results:  The fastest QuickDraw color performing computer Apple makes is the (drumroll please) LCIII.  And the Color Classic ranks right up there with the Quadra line.  The Centris line pales in comparison.  Does anybody know the differences in these computers that explains the disparity in graphics/processor performance?
viralbus@daimi.aau.dk (Thomas Martin Widmann) writes:  >So far I have only seen pictures of the new ergonomic keyboard, >but it seems that the 'b' is placed on the left part after the split. >However, when I learned typing in school some years ago, I was taught >to write 'b' with my right hand. Is this a difference between Danish >and American typing, or what???  It must be... ...I type it with my left hand.  Personally, I would have a real problem with my keyboard opened up like that, because I tend to share some keys with both hands, particularly if I'm doing something else with one hand (like using the cursor keys, mouse, or glass of Jolt).
I am in the market for a 120M hard drive! I have a IIsi with 5/80 and I am almost all filled up! Is anyone selling any HD's for the Mac for cheap? Where can I get one through mail order and where is the best place to buy from for the best prices? Is there anyone on the net or on this newsgroup that sells them for wholesale or cheaper? Any info would be appreciated! Thanks!
Double speed performance from a CD drive does not require SCSI-2 interfacing. The resultant 300 kbps speed is well within the transfer rate of an LC. In other words, I believe you have been given incorrect information.
In <1993Apr16.091202.15500@waikato.ac.nz> ldo@waikato.ac.nz (Lawrence D'Oliveiro, Waikato University) writes:  >I have heard of no such warnings from anybody at Apple. Just to be sure, I >asked a couple of our technicians, one of whom has been servicing Macs for >years. There is *no* danger of damaging logic boards by plugging and unplugging >ADB devices with the power on.  The problem is that the pins in the ADB connector  are close to each other, and if you happen to bend the cable a little while inserting it, you short the ADB port. If you take it to an Apple Repair Centre, that means a new motherboard (though a component replace IS physically possible)  Same goes for serial ports (LocalTalk as well)  Cheers,  					/ h+ --   -- Jon W{tte, h+@nada.kth.se, Mac Hacker Deluxe --
Is it going to be possible to upgrade a C610 to Tempest? If so, how...motherboard switch?   Probably gonna be expensive right?
Hi there!  I wonder if anyone knows and can recommend me a good NuBus display card for driving a 14" multisync (NEC 3D)? The NEC 3D can do horizontal refresh from 15.5 kHz to 38 kHz and vertical from 50 Hz to 90 Hz and can do max 1024x768 interlaced, though I am looking for something more like 800x600 or 832x624 noninterlaced. It would be very nice to find a card which can be programmed quite freely within these limits and is capable to display at least 8bits/pixel, preferably more.  Is there anything on the market that comes even close?   Thanks
jfinete@cats.ucsc.edu (Joseph Manuel Finete) writes: >The IIvx...LCIII performance at a Centris 610 price.  >And unless >you're running FPU-intensive software, the 610 will blow the doors off the >LCIII and the IIvx.  From the benchmarks I've seen (was that in MacUser or MacWeek?) the FPU-less Centris 610 is _faster_ at floating-point operations (the kind of calculations that get routed to an FPU) than a Mac IIfx!  And a Mac IIfx (68030 @ 40MHz + FPU) is _the_ fastest 030-based Mac.  Take note, of course, that benchmarks never tell the whole story... Get your favorite program(s) and run them on both machines at the store.  They should let you do that before you plunk down a hefty amount...  Virtually, Philippe
1.  Why, or how actually, can a Powerbook have a 640 x 400 pixel     display, regardless if it is a 9" or 10", and still keep the     72 dpi resolution?  (I assume that it doesn't, and I don't      mean to imply they *all* have these dimensions)   2.  Any info on price drops or new models (non-Duo) coming up?
In article <byrne1.735286675@husc.harvard.edu> Laurence Byrne, byrne1@scws7.harvard.edu writes: >Has anyone had any success or experience with the HP DeskWriter v3.1 >drivers? The new driver has a nice "Save as Default" option which claims >to record your paper size, font substitution settings etc. for future
I need to get an Apple 40SC tape backup unit working under Sys 7.0.x, but do not have any drivers/software to access the device.  Does anyone know where I can fidn the tools to access this device?  Appreciate any info/comments.  --curtis
patrickd@wpi.WPI.EDU (Lazer) writes ... >I'd appreciate it greatly if someone could E-mail me the following: >(if you only know one, that's fine) >1) Specs for the 68040 (esp. how it compares to the Pentium)  Specs for the 68040 can fill a 500 page book.  Some highlights are... 32-bit address space w/ 32-bit data width.  18 32-bit integer registers  & 8 80-bit floating point registers.  8K copyback capable caches, 4-way set associative.  Typical 1.2 clocks/integer instruction.  5 clocks for a floating point multiply.  (interesting aside: the 68040 can multiply two 80-bit floating point numbers in less time than it can multiply two 32-bit integers)  >2) Specs for the 68060 with estimated cost, release date, etc...  More of the same but with multiple instruction dispatching.  Figure about 0.8 clocks per instruction typical (my guess).  But the Motorola guys are pretty bright, it may be less.  >I'm interested in speeds, systems it can run (Windows NT, RISC, or whatever), >costs, bus info, register info.  All the technical info.  Call Motorola.  I'm not typing it all in.  >I am hoping that the 68040 can win yet another battle against the intel people.  I'm predicting that both the 680x0 and x86 lines are reaching their ends.  New experimental processors have 64-bit data pathways and can schedule up to 8 out of 32 instructions each clock cycle.  That sort of trick can't really be done with CISC architectures.  I finally saw some details on the 586/Pentium and was not greatly impressed.  They've finally done some work on the FPU to get it up to speed, but otherwise it's only going to be a 2x speedup.  And to get that they're using two integer units, larger caches, and a branch target buffer.  Yes, I know they're talking about 100MHz processors. Big whoop.  Designing a 100MHz board is difficult and really expensive.  Priced 15ns memory chips lately?
Chances are that this has been discussed to death already, and if so could someone who has kept the discussion mail me or direct me  to an archive site. Basically, I am just wondering if Slick 50 really does all it says that it does. And also, is there any data to support the claim.  Thanks for any info.
In article <1r0vk6INNaft@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM writes: >>I too was puzzled by this obvious untruth. What I think is going on is that >>Nissan claims that the Altima is "the best selling new car namelplate in >>the US" (I think I have this near verbatim). Lee Iaccoca's statistics >>dept. would have been proud of that sentence. > >Note that the Corolla/Prism are also new designs... but hey are not new  >"nameplates."  I guess Nissan doesn't even sell as many Altimas as >Toyota does Corollas, or there would be no "nameplate" qualifier.  But waiiiiiit, isn't Nissan officially registering the car as far as government paperwork goes, Nissan Stanza Altima, to avoid costly and lengthy paperwork? I read this on the net a while ago, and someone actually may have said there's a little Stanza logo on the Altima somewhere.  You *can* have it both ways :-)  Spiros
In article <1993Apr20.174246.14375@wam.umd.edu> lerxst@wam.umd.edu (where's my   thing) writes: >  >  I was wondering if anyone out there could enlighten me on this car I saw > the other day. It was a 2-door sports car, looked to be from the late 60s/ > early 70s. It was called a Bricklin. The doors were really small. In   addition, > the front bumper was separate from the rest of the body. This is  > all I know. If anyone can tellme a model name, engine specs, years > of production, where this car is made, history, or whatever info you > have on this funky looking car, please e-mail.  Bricklins were manufactured in the 70s with engines from Ford. They are rather   odd looking with the encased front bumper. There aren't a lot of them around,   but Hemmings (Motor News) ususally has ten or so listed. Basically, they are a   performance Ford with new styling slapped on top.  >    ---- brought to you by your neighborhood Lerxst ----  Rush fan?
I bought an Intrepid about two months ago and am very happy with it.  Lots of room inside and even with the smaller engine it has enough power for me.  The only problem I found was a small selection on the dealer's lots. They are hot sellers around here.
In article <1993Apr15.170720.8538@colorado.edu> drew@kinglear.cs.colorado.edu ( Drew Eckhardt) writes: > >Most cars have drain petcocks in the radiators, and I've never >seen nor heard of a vandal opening one.  I imagine that there >would be an even lower risk with an oil plug because you have >to crawl furthur under the car to open it. > >Car vandals are usually real traditional in their methods, and do things >that don't get them dirty, like keying your car, dumping sand, sugar >or mothballs in the gas tank, TPing it, etc.  USUALLY....go enough places and you'll see stuff happen you didn't think did.
In article <1993Apr18.173934.14572@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, markm@latium. (Mark Monninger) writes: |> Although not in direct response to the referenced article, just to set the  |> record straight, Beamers are BMW motorcycles. BMW cars are Bimmers. Please,                     ^^^^^^^ Huh!  I though Beamers were IBM employees :-)
Now, my ego with regards to my shifting ability is as big as anyone else's, but I just ordered my first car with an auto trans. I wasn't planning on it; but after driving a few I was convinced: Things have changed since the days of  "Slip 'n' Slide Withe Powerglide". They shift *better* than I do, there's no clutch to wear out (Honda wanted $800 for my 4WD wagon last year!- got it done for $500), it only costs about 5% in gas milage on the highway and it makes it easier to concentrate on all the radios in my car ;-)  (Oddly enough, while two of my best friends- both in the auto industry here in the  Motor City- have switched wholeheartedly to autos, their wives *insist* on  manual. Shift envy?)  Braggadocio aside, given today's technology and the warranties they're handing  out the auto trans seemed like an excellent choice. Call me a convert.
hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes: > I came upon a  > train parked on a trestle with its locomotive sitting directly over > the northbound lanes. [...] Just as I passed from underneath the trestle, > my radar detector went into full alert - all lights lit and all chirps, > beeps, and buzzes going strong. > Could this have been caused by the train's radio or what?  recently-manufactured locomotives have wheel-slip detection systems that use frequencies shared with police radar (i forget which band). these will set off your radar detector if you get close enough, though i believe the range is pretty short.
>From: drew@kinglear.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt) >In article <pod.734834505@sour.sw.oz.au> pod@sour.sw.oz.au (Paul O'Donnell) wri >>In <1qgi8eINNhs5@skeena.ucs.ubc.ca> yiklam@unixg.ubc.ca (Yik Chong Lam) writes >> >>>Hello, >> >>>      Does anyone know how to take out the bolt under the engine >>>compartment?  Should I turn clockwise or counter?  I tried any kind >>>of lubricants, WD-40,etc, but I still failed! >>>      Do you think I can use a electric drill( change to a suitable >>>bit ) to turn it out?  If I can succeed, can I re-tighten it not too >>>tight, is it safe without oil leak? >> >>You shouldn't need any power tools to undo it, an electric drill >>probably won't give you much extra torque anyway.  WD40 will help >>things that are seized due to rust but this is unlikely for a drain >>plug.  You should be able to undo it with a spanner.  When it >>loosens, it will probably become very loose and you will bash your >>knuckles on the underside of the car - this is the price you must >>pay for doing you own work. > >No, that's the price you pay for not knowing how to use a >wrench.  You want to pull the wrench towards you, away from >painful knuckle splitting hard things.  If you can't pull it >because things are in the way, push it with an open hand.  I find this method much better myself, too, although I do really hate it when the bolt finally comes loose and the wrench and my hand both come crashing into my face.  After coming to, which is about 15 minutes later, I change my clothes (because by this time all the oil has drained *on* me), and ice my entire face and suck down about 20 Tylenol to ease the pain.  Later in the day I then proceed with refilling the engine oil.  It's just crazy how I try and change the oil on my cars in one weekend---I go through about 3 bottles of Tylenol and 2 bags of ice.
Well, I'm afraid the time has come; my rice-burner has finally died. I'd always promised my wife that we would do a Scandanavian tour when my car died and pick up a Volvo in Sweden, drive it around and then import it home.   Can anyone give me 1) advice on feasibility and relative costs 2) references where I might learn more 3) Personal experience?  Please email
In article 21071@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com, mperry@vnet.ibm.com (Mark Perry) writes: >>Hardly a good reason, most US cars do too - and plenty of people >>buy them (in the US anyway :-). I think the 850 is quite a good >>looking car - unlike the US influenced 740! >> >>kevinh@hasler.ascom.ch > >I don't think it's so easy to tell the 850 from any other 7 or 9 series unless >you look real close. I really do think Volvo's are all dogs though beacuse they >are 1.Agricultural   While previous Volvos have been essentially very fast tractors, the 3,4 and 8 series are far from 'agricultural' in design or execution (how many FWD tractors have you  seen?).  >2.Have godlier than thou advertising.   You state this like it is a bad thing.  :^)  (remember, car companies use ad agencies - they don't do their own ads!)  >3.are part of Renault.  Is this true?  I know that they had done joint ventures with Renault, but I haven't heard about their subsumption into Renault - does this mean that the French Government now owns Volvo?  - anyway, Renault makes some very nice cars, they just don't sell 'em in N. America!  > >However... One thing that I do think is in their favour is that they are >immediately recognisable as a VOLVO and that is not something you can say >about most Japanese manufacturers and Ford. Saab also have a strong corparate >look which like it or not is what I thing all car makers could aim for to >make life a little more varied.  Here! Here!  > > >mperry@vnet.ibm.com
I was wondering if someone could point me to somewhere I could find a list (and hopefully comparison) of all the convertibles that are out these days. Seems like they are making a big comeback - but I'm not sure where to look
In article <1993Apr13.182100.26650@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes: >In article <49071@fibercom.COM> rrg@rtp.fibercom.com (Rhonda Gaines) writes: >> >>I'm in the market for a new car.  Currently I own a '90 Mazda MX-6 DX >>which has served me just fine.  However, I'd like to get >>a 4-door car since I don't relish the thought of moving a carseat >>around in a 2-door car.  My criteria are: 4-door, a/c, am/fm cassette, >>quick acceleration, cruise control, decent rear seat legroom (my >>husband is a 6-footer).  It must also be under $20k >>preferably closer to the 11-15k range (which will probably rule out >>the Accord).  The '93 cars that have caught my eye are: Toyota Corolla,  >>Toyata Camry, Mazda 626, Pontiac Grand Am, Pontiac Grand Prix,  >>Honda Accord, (and Civic if it's roomy enough and still comes in a  >>4-door model), Hyundai Sonata, and maybe even a small Oldsmobile,  >>although not the Achieva.  All opinions, benchmarks, >>recommendations, etc. are welcome. > >I really wouldn't consider the Grand Am/Achevia/Skylark (all the same) >since they are very bad in frontal collsions and don't have any >other really outstanding qualities. > >john >--   I really must object to that last statement.  Having a lot of experience with a '92 Grand Am coupe, I can firmly state that they do have a lot of outstanding qualities.  Very reliable throughout.  Great layout of controls and components.  Very roomy considering the exterior size of the car.  They  look sharp inside and out.  The V6 that I drive has exceptional power and  drivability compared to other similar cars that I have driven.  All in all, it's a fun-to-drive, dependable, and reasonably priced vehicle. Please don't knock it with a statement like that unless you back it up with specific reasons why you feel that way.  Rob bell@plains.nodak.edu
cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (CarolinaFan@uiuc) writes:  >shoppa@almach.caltech.edu (TIM SHOPPA) writes:  >>I thought that the V-10 was originally designed for a truck (not necessarily >>a pickup!) and then just sort of dropped into the Viper's frame because >>it fit and was available.  A friend of mine and I saw (and heard) a Viper, >>and my friend's first response was that it sounded like a truck!  It sounded >>fine to me, but then again, I don't like the whiny noise that most modern >>sports car engines make.  BTW, the Viper we saw was moving at about 10mph, >>just like all of the other cars on the 10 freeway heading east out of LA >>on a Friday afternoon.  Looked really nice, though.  >	Actually, I was under the impression that the V-10 in the Viper was >NOT the V-10 that Dodge was developing for its new Kenworths.  I have always >thought it was the exhaust system and not the engine that produced the noise >of a car...?  Well, yes, the exhaust is where the majority of the noise comes out, but the basics (tone, firing cadence, etc.) are determined by the engine configuration. In the case of the Viper, yes, we are discussing a HUGE multicylinder 90-deg. engine, which will sound somewhat like a truck.  And my understanding, btw, is that that V-10 engine was designed originally with the intention of being ad- aptible for either the trucks or the Viper.  And from what I've heard (no first hand knowledge :-( ) it's doing a pretty good job at both.  And the best exhaust sound in the world is now and will always be a 60-degree DOHC Colombo-designed V-12.  Period.