waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie) writes: >My car was recently destroyed in a hail storm.  [...] >I fully expected to get jerked around by the insurance company. >I wasn't the only one who had hail damage.  State Farm >opened its claim centers on evenings and weekends, and flew down >additional adjusters from Dallas.  i have no experience with State Farm, but i think it's important to differentiate your experience from a typical "accident."
In article <1pq29p$29p@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM writes: > >Any reason you are limited to the two mentioned? They aren't really at >the same point along the SUV spectrum - not to mention price range. >How about the Explorer, Trooper, Blazer, Montero, and if the budget >allows, the Land Cruiser?   Any advice on HOW to buy a Land Cruiser? My local Toyota dealer says they get two a year, and if I want one I can just get on the waiting list. Forget about a test drive or even kicking the tires. And if they are that rare, I doubt there is much of a parts inventory on hand.
In article <jgladu-060493121851@128.249.27.63> jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy/John F. Gladu) writes: >In article <1993Apr6.130550.13550@cs.tulane.edu>, >finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan) wrote: >>  >> As an additional data point, I have run Castrol 20W50 exclusively >> in the following cars: 75 Rabbit, 78 Scirocco, 76 Rabbit, 78 Bus, >> 70 Beetle, 76 Bus, 86 Jetta GLI.  I've never had an oil-related >> problem. > >Add mine to that list:  '71,'72 SuperBeetles; '68,'69 Bugs; '61 dddPanel; >(cringe) '87 Toyota Tercel (It's my WIFE's car, honest:-).  I'm still >chicken about running it in the '90 Vanagon - that's got Castrol 10W40 in >it.  I don't understand this last statement about the '90Vanagon...Our '90Vanagon Owner's Manual RECOMMENDS 20W50 !!
In article <1993Apr6.131018.12873@acd4.acd.com> jwg@sedv1.acd.com ( Jim Grey) writes: >In article <1993Apr2.174850.6289@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> prm@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (paul.r.mount) writes: >> >>In your experience, how true is it that a fuel injector cleaning >>will do much more good than just using detergent gas.   While I >>agree that a clogged fuel injector would darken my day, how clogged >>do they get, and is $59 a good price (or can I do it myself by buying >>a can of ____ (what?) and doing ___ what? > > >A "fuel injector cleaning" at the dealer is probably little more than >them opening your gas tank, dumping in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, >and sending you on your merry way $59 poorer.  Go to KMart and buy the >cleaner yourself for $1.29.  Personally, i wouldn't use the $1.29 product from KMart. I knew about this previously, but this past weekend on PBS's MotorWeek Pat Goss  (their resident tech type) discussed these products, and recommends not using them (i.e, the non-isopropyl alcohlo based injector cleaners).  Supposedly only the isopropyl based cleaners actually remove moisture from your fuel tank as they clean your injectors.  And although the  others (ethyl based) do clean injectors they also cause rubber  components in the fuel system to deteriorate, and they don't mix well with water to help remove it from the fuel system.  I use a product recommended by VW called 44K (by BG Products, Inc.). It cost more about $14.00, but it is supposed to do the job without the potential harmful side effects, and its results are supposed to  last from 2k to 4k miles. I have also used Chevron's Techtrolene (sp?).  I can't say that i have noticed any difference using either, since i  only use these product as a preventative maintenance item.  >  >Just because you dealer sez you need it, don't mean it's necessarily so. >Be suspicious. >  >jim grey >jwg@acd4.acd.com                                                    .                                                    /                 Larry                            __/    _______/_                  keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \                                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===             ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \          /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |         |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      /          /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO             \       /                           \       /                          -            1990 2.0 16v           -          ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------                         The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates             that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
In article <1qehi6$ork@armory.centerline.com>, jimf@centerline.com (Jim  Frost) writes: > Ok, I'll give you a few reasons: >  > 1. Neither car was designed to turn at those speeds. > 2. Neither car was designed to stop quickly from those speeds. > 3. Safety mechanisms were not designed for impacts at those speeds. > 4. An uncontrolled environment leads to unpredictable circumstances >    where you might need to turn or stop with no notice.   Do you, by any chance own an SHO or have access to one, such that you would have any idea what it is designed for or how it handles?  Just wondering...
Sayeth sjwyrick@lbl.gov (Steve Wyrick): $Anybody keeping track of how many of these there are?  So far I have $Miata, Tredia, Previa, Sentra, Maxima, Altima, Camry, and Justy, not to $mention Lexus, Acura and Infiniti!       You're apparently including names that are, or appear to be, derivatives of real words in English or some other language (e.g. Acura, Infiniti, Maxima, Altima), in which case you missed ones such as Integra, Supra, Allante', Capri and Calibra.  In Canada, add Serenia and Precidia.  If you count misspellings, add Protege and (in Canada) Vigor.  How about the forthcoming Mondeo, if it is given that name in North America?     Others might include Celica, Corolla, Paseo, and Tercel.  In Canada, add Asu"na.
-- My boss is interested in a new 300 series Mercedes Benz wagon. Does anyone have any testimonial evidence and/or strong opinions on this car (or line)?  Particularly, I would like to hear about power (manual t. only) reliability, feel, and any unusually good or bad features of the line.  She currently drives a VW Passat, and is being plagued by its electrical problems.  The dealer claims there is nothing wrong, even though the doors have a habit of locking and unlocking them- selves while you are driving down the road.  The automatic shoulder restraints also like to move back and forth as you move along. She does not have the new, larger engine and is quite dissatisfied with its lack of power.  The MB wagon would have to have more power and no peculiar problems such as the Passat's electrical system.  She is also considering a Saab 9000 (add some letters).  Any comparisons between the 9000 line and the Mercedes would be helpful.  Price is not an impediment.  -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jeremy J. Corry                    | Churchill claimed the traditions   jcorry@erasure_sl.cc.emory.edu     | of the navy are rum, mutiny, and                           __       | sodomy.                           \/                                                   My opinions are my own, but I probably got them from someone else.
In article <23056.74.uupcb@cutting.hou.tx.us>, david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (Da vid Bonds) writes: >In rec.autos, CPKJP@vm.cc.latech.edu (Kevin Parker) writes: > I'd like to get some feedback on a car with most bang for the buck in the > $13000 to 16,000 price range. I'm looking for a car with enough civility to be > driven every day, or even on long trips, but when I hit the gas, I want to fee l > >Take a look at a '91 Taurus SHO - they can be found for ~13k, and are the >ultimate in 4 door sports cars.  Performance similar to a Mustang, but >quite civil and comfortable...  Try to get a late model 91 for the better >shifter. > >  >---- >The Cutting Edge BBS (cutting.hou.tx.us)   A PCBoard 14.5a system >Houston, Texas, USA   +1.713.466.1525          running uuPCB  >Well, you could always go with a 5.0 Mustang LX with a pleasant V8, but the diamond star cars (Talon/Eclipse/Laser) put out 190 hp in the turbo models, and 195 hp in the AWD turbo models,  These cars also have handling to match the muscle, and are civil in regular driving conditions, rather than having a harsh, stiff ride....The AWD Turbo is clearly the better choice of the two (because of all that torque steer on the front drive model), but you may have to go with a leftover or "slightly" used model for that price range....tough decision...          Rob Fusi         rwf2@lehigh.edu
In article <2BD0BDC3.25868@news.service.uci.edu> raman@translab.its.uci.edu (Balaji V. Ramanathan) writes: >	The part about spending $5000-7000 on repairs reminds me >of an article I read in a magazine comparing the 5 year ownership costs >of a Toyota Camry and a Ford Taurus or something like that.  The result, >which they announced with great flourish was that it cost the same at the >end of the period.  That was their argument to prove that you don't go >wrong buying the Ford Taurus over the Camry. > >	Now, if I remember correctly, the Camry costs about $4000 or so more >in initial costs.  Essentially, it means that you spend about $4000 extra >on repairs on the Taurus.  That is ridiculous.  Every time your car >needs repairs, it is extra hassles, loss of time and a dozen other things. >I would much rather spend $5000 more in initial costs than spend $4000 more >in repair costs.  did you account for depreciation?  i seriously doubt that a taurus would rack up an extra $4000 in repair costs over 5 years.
RADAR (Radio Association Defending Airwave Rights) says that Geico insurance not only buy's Radar for police but also actively lobbies states to promote making Radar Detectors illegal.   I think the buying part is a misuse of money but the Radar Detector part shows how little they know about the issue.  No study I am aware of has ever concluded that detectors have a negative impact on safety or that users have a higher average speed.  Incompetence by Geico?  I think so.   Troy Wecker troy@sequent.com Sequent Computer Systems Beaverton, OR
In a previous article, aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) says:  > >In a previous article, eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) says: > >>In article <1r1vofINN871@usenet.pa.dec.com> tomacj@opco.enet.dec.com (THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO !!!) writes: >nice theory.  too bad the MR2's never came with a four cylinder over 2.0 >liters.  More like 1.6.  Or did they? were the nonturbo MR2II's  2.2 or >some such?  let me clarify, i think they both are 2.0 litres.  >I also understand that anyone using balancing shafts on four cylinders, must >pay SAAB a royalty for using their patented design..like Porsche's 3.0 I4...
I was recently thumbing through the 1993 Lemon-Aid New Car Guide.  What I found was a car would be given a 'Recommended' under the picture while a few sentences later noting how a driver and passenger were virtually guaranteed to be killed in a front end collision.  The most highly recommended small car (The Civic) has the worst crash rating of all of the small cars listed.  There were many such cases of 'great' vehicles where you wouldn't survive an accident.  Is it only me, or is safety not one of the most important factors when buying a car?
In article <1993Apr24.150653.8115@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Brian J Queiser) writes: | cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: | >aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes: |  | >>i think that it is technicaly known as a 180 degree vee configuration. | >>(could be wrong....this is how i've seen them referred to) |  | >    Then what is a "Flat-" engine??? |  | flat = 180 deg V = horizonatlly opposed |  | Usually, it also equals "boxer," however, I think the term is | traditionally reserved for 8's and 12's (and firing order matters). | This was talked about here in r.a many months back; I can't remember | the consensus. |  | Examples: |  | Ferrari's 512TR is a flat 12 boxer. | Porsche's 911 is a flat 6. | Subaru's Impreza is a flat 4. |  | Regards, |   Not to inject a non-automotive note to this thread, but the BMW opposed twin used in motorcycles for a *long* time is and always has been known as a "boxer".
Thanks to everyone who responded to my Honda Accord break question. It does seem that the master cylinder is bad. I will have my mechanic double check and be sure it isn't something simpler and cheaper first, but from your responses it sounds like it is very likely to be the master cylinder.  Thanks everyone!!
Consumer Reports once wrote about the S-10 Blazer that it "shook and rattled like a tired taxi cab".  There is one noise that is expecially irritating - the back window squeaks.  I believe its because the whole tailgate assembly and window are not solid.  Anyway, has anyone had the same problem, and have you found any fixes?
Has anybody noticed that Toyota has an uncanny knack for designing horrible ugly station wagons?  Tercels, Corollas, Camrys.  Have their designers no aesthetic sense at all?
In article <C5JnHA.8IB@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, rmt6r@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Roy Matthew Thigpen) writes... >  >Last night I had a dream that my dad bought a Viper. >I took it out for a test drive, without his knowledge, >and had to push it all the way home just to avoid a ticket. >Wierd dream, I wonder what it means.... >  You probably should told you dad to buy that car, than your dream might come true.
Why crawl under the car at all? I have a machine I got for my boat that  pulls the oil out under suction through the dip stick tube. It does an excellent job and by moving the suction tube around, you can get more  old oil out than by using the drain plug. I think I paid $25 at E&B Marine. The oil goes into a steel 3 gal can - wait until it cools and decant into your favorite device. I use soft drink bottles. Easy to take them down to the local oil recycle center.
It is actually simple in principle. Porous adsorbents like zeolite and activated carbon can adsorb gases evaporated from the adsorbate (water or methanol, etc.) giving the cooling effect.  Upon being heated, the  gas-saturated adsorbent bed will give off the gases which are then to be condensed.  This forms the adsorption refrigeration cycle.  The only problem is that the COP is very low (0.2 -0.6).    Max
On the subject of the V4,Ford in the UK used V4 engines exstensively in their Ford Transit vans.This brings back a memory from the seventies.I played in a band at the time and for something like 180 pounds four of us bought a 1967 "tranny" to cart the gear around in.It was in terrible shape (cosmetically) because it's last owner was a pig farmer.We spent days cleaning it up and putting in a partition and more seating but 'til the day it died everytime you turned on the fan to the defroster dried pig shit came flying out the vents!!!.     Back to the engine if I remember right it was a 1600cc V4 and that thing could haul,we could fill it with equipment and up to 8 people and it went like a bat out of hell,of course there were no pollution controls on the engine and the gas was leaded and higher octane than we get now.     When the mechanical fuel pump quit we put in an electric one from a  Morris Minor that worked great. Ah fond memories.
Eve'.  I am looking to buy 4 new p195-50r15 tires.. (R or HR). I don't have much to spend, but I would like a tire that will LAST. Does anyone have any experience with the following brands?  	Riken 	Falken	 	BFG	 	General	  There are others, but these I can find here for under $70.. Like I said, I am mostly interested in threadwear then speed, since I hardly get to drive them over 80 or 90 mph. Also, is it true that "noone will give you warranty on such tires", according to a tire dealer?  Finally, do HR tires last longer than R tires (threadwear again), or is that strictly a speed factor?  Thanks for any replies..
In article <49422@fibercom.COM> rrg@rtp.fibercom.com (Rhonda Gaines) writes: > >I'm planning on purchasing a new car and will be trading in my '90 >Mazda MX-6 DX.  I've still got 2 more years to pay on it.  How does >that get taken into account when I purchase my new car?  Does the >dealership pay off my car and add on the amount they had to pay to >the purchase price of the new car?  someone please explain this to >me.  If you don't already know it, you should call the bank/credit union/ finance company that holds the loan on your present car and get the current payoff cost.  If you are trading in your current car on the new car, subtract the payoff amount from the trade-in the dealer is giving you.  (If this turns out to be a negative number, you need to reconsider the deal.) Subtract this difference from the price of the new car.  This is the size of the loan you will need for the new car.  The dealer will take care of paying off the loan on your old car out of the money you give them when you pick up your new car.  At least that's how it worked for me 5 years ago in Ohio...  > > -thanks >  rhonda
In article IGw@world.std.com, edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes: >I am considering buying one of these two vehicles (new). >I want a fun-to-drive family vehicle that can go through anything. >The Jeep is very popular, and has the features. All-Wheel-Drive, 4 wheel >anti-lock, roomy passenger cabin (but limited cargo with an internal spare). >THe Toyota is an aging design with only part-time 4-wheel and only rear >anti-lock (and no anti-lock in 4WD!). It also has a very inconvenient >rear gate, not to mention awkward ingress to the passenger cabin. >  Any reason you are limited to the two mentioned? They aren't really at the same point along the SUV spectrum - not to mention price range. How about the Explorer, Trooper, Blazer, Montero, and if the budget allows, the Land Cruiser?  Bear in mind that 90% of all SUV's purchased never venture off-road. Carefully weigh the trade-off between comfort and off-road performance when choosing one, and realistically decide whether you'll actually make enough use of the off-road-ability to sacrifice (some of) the on-road comfort.    John
In article <93112.103631LRR105@psuvm.psu.edu>, <LRR105@psuvm.psu.edu> writes: >I HAVE, THEY SHOWED THE FOOT CAM AND TELEMETRY FOR RUSTY WALLACE SHIFTING AT AT >LANTA LAST YEAR AND HE NEVER TOUCHED THE CLUTCH EXCEPT VERY SLIGHTLY WHEN DOWN >SHIFTING - 700 HP IS PRETTY POWERFUL TO ME  I doubt his trans uses standard syncros.  There are several mechanisms for coupling a gear with the transmission output shaft, some of which are fine for racing and unsuitable for street use.
1954 MG-TF with frame-up restoration in early '70's - a local show winner! Driven very little and stored inside since then - mostly collected dirt & dust.  Needs attention to brake cylinders (like all MG-T's) but otherwise ready to run.  Chrome & paint not fancy but it is mechanically excellent. The engine, a 1250cc, was completely overhauled by a machine shop.  It is priced at $12,000.  1953 MG-TD Good shape but hasn't been run since '70's.  Needs engine work, but no rust and everything is with it including a top, side curtains and carpet that were new and haven't seen the outdoors since the '70's. $9,500.  1952 MG-TD Basket Case.  I'd call it a parts car, but it's too good for that.  Everything seems to be there except the tach.  Would make a good project car or parts car if you insist.  No apparent rust but the upholstery is a disaster.  Stored inside since the '70's.  The top was new but now soso.  This one has wire wheels!  Looking for $4,500.  All three cars will be sold "as they stand" with no hassles or haggles. Time has passed by and it is time to part company.  Prices are negotiable.  Reply via matthews@Oswego.oswego.edu or   U.S. mail to: P. O. Box 1015                                        315-341-3501   Oswego, NY 13126   --
mliggett@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (matthew liggett) writes:  >In <C5t3B2.DG@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes:  >>boyle@cactus.org (Craig Boyle) writes:  >>>In article <C5sxI4.J9B@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: >>>>gibbonsa@fraser.sfu.ca (Darren Gibbons) writes: >>>>>I'm looking for information on Opel cars.  Now you ask, which model? >>>>>Well, the sad truth is, I'm not entirely sure, but it's a two-seater, >>>>>with roll-over headlights, hard top, and really sporty looking.  My >>>>>friend has one sitting in his yard in really nice condition, >>>>>body-wise, but he transmission has seized up on him, so it hasn't run >>>>>for a while.  Does anyone have any info on these cars?  The engine >>>>>compartment looks really tight to work on, but it is in fine shape and >>>>>I am quite interested in it. >>>>>Thanks! >>>>>Darren Gibbons >>>>>gibbonsa@sfu.ca >>>>	 >>>>	This would be the manta, would it not???  Sold through Buick dealers in the mid '70's as the price leader????  >>>Sounds a lot more like an Opel GT to me. I'd guess that this is on the same >>>chassis as the Kadett, rather than the bigger Manta - but I could easily >>>be wrong.  I think the later Kadett's were sold here as Buick Opels.  >>>Craig  >>	I think the Manta is the European name for the "GT."  I'm pretty sure >>that the only Kadett's sold here were/are the Pontiac LeMans.  I think the >>GT is just an early '70s to mid '70s Manta.   >>--  >>Chintan Amin <The University of Illinois UrbanaChampaign> mail: llama@uiuc.edu >>*******SIG UNDER CONSTRUCTION HARD HAT AREA********  >Bzzt. >The manta was a two-door sedan in the US. >It had a 1900 engine. >Was sometimes referred to as an Opel 1900. >Manta's are also ve hot and fun cars too.  >| |\/|  __   -=> mliggett@silver.ucs.indiana.edu <=- (mliggett@iugold.bitnet  | >* |  |/\||   'junk' collector, toys R us kid, antiauthoritarian, and fan of   * >| frogs, iguanas, and other herps.					      |  	Funny, the Manta's over in Europe look surprisingly like the Opel alluded to by the original poster.