waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <1993Apr16.193553.27118@mksol.dseg.ti.com> a207706@moe.dseg.ti.com (Robert Loper) writes: >In article <C5L8rE.28@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu> callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) writes: >>In article <1993Apr15.232412.2261@ganglion.ann-arbor.mi.us> david@ganglion.ann-arbor.mi.us (David Hwang) writes: >> >>I would be willing to bet that if we removed the automatic >>transmissions from all "performance-type" cars (like the 5.0l >>Mustangs, Camaros, and the like) we'd cut down on the number of >>accidents each year. Autos are fine for sedate little sedans, >>but they have no business in performance cars, IMHO. >> >>				James >> >I have to disagree with this.  I have a 92 Z28 with a 350 and a 4-speed auto >w/ overdrive, and it is really better that way.  Chevy autos are reknowned >for their long life and ability to handle copious amount of power.  I live  >in the Dallas area, and a manual would be much harder to drive in the traffic  >here.  Now if I still lived out in the sticks like I used to, a manual would be >more fun.   > I don't know if it's as much an issue of their ablility to handle the power as it is the power they lose (in the torque converter, etc).  >Safety-wise, an auto is less distracting...I would hate to have to be     >shifting gears while I was trying to ease into traffic in the freeways here. >Performance-wise, I can hold my own against any stock 5.0 Mustang or 5.0 >Camaro w/ a five speed.   > However, if you encounter a '93 Formula with 5.7L & 6-Speed Manual, You'll be SOL, I'm afraid. ;) BTW, I know of what I speak as a former owner of a 5.7L Auto IROC (1989) and current owner of the aforementioned car...    Chris S.  --  -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chris Silvester      | "Any man capable of getting himself elected President chriss@sam.amgen.com |  should by no means be allowed to do the job" chriss@netcom.com    |   - Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
Hi everyone,  I'm getting a car in the near future.  I've narrow it down to 300ZX and SC300. Which might be a better choice?  Thanks for your opnion, Danny --
Hi Netters 	I want to know if 13500 (w/o tax) is a good deal for 1993 Mazda 626 DX How is the performance review so far on Mazda 626. Is it a good buy? Please reply to me as I don't read this group often.  Thanks In advance Ravi -- Ravi Kiran Puvvala		| "The purpose of education is not merely,  ravi@merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com	|  the assimilation of facts but blow all  Motorola Codex, Boston  MA 	|  the money" - Ravi Puvvala
The best auto-shifters on the street (AND NOT THE TRACK) are those from  Porsche... they wont change if you floor the gas during a turn.... a few  years back a was in a 200SX auto (you guys call it a 240SX [without turbo]) and was going round a corner.... I floored it and next thing I know I was  pointing backwards! The other drivers seemed quite amused ;-)
I came across this interesting information in my local public library while   researching minivans.  It is the dealer price and the retail price for a   minivan I am thinking about purchasing.  Someone told me that the number for   base price was slightly lower than the current price, but this should still   give you some idea about pricing and how much you can negotiate.   Mercury Villager GS                           Dealer     Retail Base Price                $14688     16504 Air Conditioning             729       857 Rear Defroster               143       168 Calif. Emissions              87       102 7 Passenger Seating          282       332 AM/FM Radio (no cassette)    STD       STD Automatic Transmission       STD       STD Anti-lock brakes             STD       STD Destination                  540       540  The total dealer cost is $16469 The total retail price is $18467    Nissan Quest XE                           Dealer     Retail Base Price                $15212     17545 Air Conditioning             STD       STD Rear Defroster               STD       STD Calif. Emissions              59        70 7 Passenger Seating          STD       STD AM/FM Cassette               STD       STD Automatic Transmission       STD       STD Anti-lock brakes             593       700 Destination                  540       540
In article <1993Apr20.142818.14969@ericsson.se> etxmst@sta.ericsson.se writes: >Hello netters! > >I'm visiting the US (I'm from Sweden) in August. I will probably rent a Chevy >Beretta from Alamo. I've been quoted $225 for a week/ $54 for additional days. >This would include free driving distance, but not local taxes (Baltimore).  >They also told me all insurance thats necessary is included, but I doubt that, > 'cause a friend rented a car last year and it turned out he needed a lot more >insurance than what's included in the base price. But on the other hand he  >didn't rent it from Alamo. > >Does anyone have some info on this? > >Is $225 a rip-off?  No, that sounds pretty reasonable for that car and that city.  >Probability that I'll be needing more insurance? Unless you have an accident, you won't need more.  If you plan on paying for the car with a credit card, check and see if your card automatically covers rental cars.  Also, your own auto insurance may cover rental cars also.  Most rental companies here offer extra insurance when you rent, and require you to initial in several spots if you don't want it.  The credit cards and personal auto insurance provide the same sort of coverage that the rental agency is trying to sell.  I have never rented from Alamo, so I don't know if they follow this same practice.  >Is the beretta a good rental car? Yes.  It is a compact 2-door, probably a bit dull performance and acceleration-wise, but very adequate.  It will have an automatic transmission, AM/FM stereo, air conditioning, and possibly power  windows and door locks.  Joe
In article <185900001@hpindda.cup.hp.com> jimb@hpindda.cup.hp.com (James Bruder) writes:   > From: jimb@hpindda.cup.hp.com (James Bruder) > Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1993 22:01:32 GMT > Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA > Path: eclipse!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!news.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcss01!hpindda!jimb > Newsgroups: rec.autos > Lines: 12 >  > anyone else experiencing a similar problem? >  > This concerns the clutch on a 92 Honda Accord 5 speed. When the clutch > is first used in the morning, about the first 4 miles of shifting, there > is a significant amount of clutch chatter until things warm up.  Then the > clutch shifts smoothly.  This chatter started when I moved to the San  > Francisco Bay area from a low-humidity environment.  The dealer stated > that this is known to happen since Honda changed from an asbestos to > non-asbestos clutch material.  No remedy!! Seems that moisture on clutch > surface causes slipping until the moisture evaporates. >  > Any comments out there?   I have been having problems with a slightly different clutch problem on my 90 Prelude. See rec.autos.tech for more detail. My problem is a false engagement point below the actual one. It also seems affected by weather - it is most noticeable (and annoying) on damp or cold days. My dealer says he can't reproduce the problem - I think I'll just sell the car.
In article <1993Apr19.145238.9561@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Brian J Queiser) writes: >anything if he hadn't emptied his gun into the asshole.  Texas--it's >whole other country.  That reminds me of one of Texas's ads...you hear a guy speaking in French (like it's a letter home), then the French moves to the  background, and a French-accented voice come to the foreground, talking about how he went walking on the beach, and it felt so much like home that he decided to take his shoes off...and the rest of his clothes. It ended with "please send bail." :-)  >On an rec.autos note, does anyone carry a gun on them or keep one in >their car (which is bad idea, isn't it?) if you work in a bad part of >town (or regularly go through one)?  Is this a loaded question?  :^)  I normally have an unloaded Colt Delta in my glove box with a loaded magazine handy (which is perfectly legal in Oklahoma). For those times that I'm travelling inter-state, I keep an unloaded  S&W .44 Magnum revolver in the glove box, with a speed-loader in my pocket (which is legal everywhere, under Federal law, Illinois State Police be hanged).  As I've said before, this is stricly for defense; my insurance will pay to replace my car, but I only have one life...  				James
Okay, okay, I know the Ford Probe is made in the US, in fact it's made in Michigan, at a Mazda plant.  My question: are most of the parts from American or Japanese sources?  I have been told that most of the US assembly plants for Japanese automakers import almost all of the parts used in the vehicles.  Any information anyone has on this will be appreciated!
>In article <1qcaueINNmt8@axon.cs.unc.edu> Andrew Brandt writes: >|> I looked into getting a/c installed on my 1987 Honda CRX Si. >|> The unit is $875 plus shipping, installation is like 5 1/2 hours on >|> top of that.  This is a hunk of change. >|>  >|> Does anyone know *any* place that does aftermarket a/c installation >|> (not with a Honda a/c unit, but some third party unit). >|>  >|> I cannot seem to find anyone who can put a third party a/c unit in a >|> Honda.  I am in No Carolina, so I would prefer some place nearby, but >|> any references would be handy. >|> >|> Thx, Andy (brandt@cs.unc.edu) > Les Bartel's comments: >>>Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I do have a comment to >make concerning aftermarket A/C units.  I have a Frost-King or Frost-Temp >(forget which) aftermarket unit on my Cavalier, and am quite unhappy with >it.  The fan is noisy, and doesn't put out much air.  I will never have >an aftermarket A/C installed in any of my vehicles again.  I just can't >trust the quality and performance after this experience. >> > - les > >--  >Les Bartel			I'm going to live forever  Let me add my .02 in. I had a A/C installed by the Ford garage and it did not work as well as the A/C that was installed by the factory in pickups  identical to mine. I have talked to other people that have had the same result. Don't know if this is just a problem with Ford or what??
Probably the most famous V16 is the one Cadillac made from about 1925   to 1935.  They had to scale down then because the Great Depression really put   the crimp on luxury cars.  It had 452 cubic inches with over two hundred horse   power.  "They don't make them like they used to."   	There were others though.  Packard had one until about 1930 whe it down   sized to their legendary Twin-Six, their mainstay for the next twenty years.    Lincoln and Pierce Arrow might have also had one but I am not two sure. 	Most luxury and semi-luxury cars of this era at least experimented with   V16 if they did not actually produce them.  There was actually a "cylinder war"   among the Big Three to see who could produce the biggest engine.  Big M
My son is considering the purchase of a 71 MGB, which has been substantially restored.  The odometer has rolled over, but we can't be sure of the actual mileage.  The engine and drive train apparently weren't touched in the restoration, except for a new carb and a few hoses.  He plans to do vacuum and compression checks to see what they might tell us about the engine.  The body and undercarriage have no visible rust, the interior is new, as are tires, front brakes (not sure about the back), battery, bumpers and other misc parts. The paint is checked in a few places, and scuffed here and there, allegedly by a wind-blown car cover.  It seemed to handle OK, except for soft front shocks. Questions:  Are there problem areas common to MGBs we should check out?  The brakes seem soft and rather ineffective; what should we expect in the way of braking action?  It seemed to be "doggy" when accelerating from a stop.  What should we expect it to do, given the 4-cylinder engine?  The top is in place, but will not reach a number of the snaps.  The weather was cold.  Should the vinyl stretch and fit when it warms up, or is it forever shrunk?  Is it normal for the wire wheels to be painted, or are they usually chromed?  Given this rather limited description, what would be a reasonable price?  Gee, this turned out to be a little long--sorry.  While my brother once owned an XK120 Jag (what a car!) we're obviously not into sports cars.  Any help with these questions, or suggestions on other things to investigate would surely be appreciated.
In article <tcora-220493100925@b329-gator-3.pica.army.mil> tcora@pica.army.mil (Tom Coradeschi) writes:  [Useless road design, speed rate discussion deleted.]  >> Actually, the roads were designated as safe at 80 when they were built >> in the 1950's taking into account the kinds of cars then available. The >> number would be much higher today because the cars, tires and just about >> everything else has imprivoved a lot. > >Except the drivers.
Alright, beat this automobile sighting.  Driving along just a hair north of Atlanta, I noticed an old, run down former car dealership which appeared to deal with, and repair, older rare or exotic foreign sports cars. I saw:  Ford GT-40 (!), the famous model from Ford, that seemed to win most of  its races in the late 60s, including Le-Mans 4 or 6 times.  Two Jensen Interceptors, one a convertable, one a hatchback?  Porsche 911 (boring compared to the rest)  THREE Ferarries, a Mondial, a 308 prepared for racing, and a red 60s model that I couldn't identify.  And at the bottom, a late 70s MG convertable.  Outside there was a rotting Rover 3500 saloon, which was never regularly sold in the U.S.  And in the showroom, there was a small italian body, either an Alpha Romeo or a Lancia. It was about the size of an Austin Mini. The trunklid was missing, exposing a boot with a voltage regulator  in the upper left corner of the wall, and a chunk of metal removed from the floor on the right hand side as if something would leave the trunk and go to the outside from here. The taillights looked like they would be the round type (if they were there). Does anyone know what the make of this one is?    Certainly made my day...
I still can't understand all the hype about the Impalla SS, it STILL has the ugly Caprice body (Orca on wheels).  The Caprice was the worst new body style to come out of Detroit EVER! Now just because the LT1 engine and a few suspension tweeks are being added.  Its STILL UGLY, its STILL a BARGE.  GM's answer to everything is "throw in a V8 and someone will buy it."  Or "add some plastic ground affects and a few stickers and call it a GT, GTZ or SS, and someone will buy it."  IMHO GM needs to scrap the Caprice body COMPLETELY and start over with a BLANK sheet of paper.  No minor modification (wheel well treatments, tail amp modification, or nose re-design or even the LT1 engine) will help the existing Caprice.
We get about 20 Taurus/Sables for fleet cars at our site every year, then the company sells them a year later to employees. The folks I know who drive/buy them have no complaints. The cars seem to drive real nice too.
folks,  i am going to be purchasing a new vehicle in the next few months.  i am trying to hold out until the fall since i have heard that i can be in a better negotiating position to purchase a '93 right when the '94s are coming out.  i need something that can comfortably carry 2 adults, 2 kids in car seats, and 2 60-pound dogs.  i can probably afford something in the 14k-16k range.  i am interested in the SUV's but am not sure there are any that are decent which i can afford. i think the ford explorer got good reviews from consumer reports but is above my $$$ range.  the isuzu rodeo is probably in my price range but i think consumer reports gave it a big thumbs down.  can anyone offer any suggestions?  i am hoping for something a little more hip than the traditional wagon, and the SUVs look like fun (we do a lot of camping too).
Although not in direct response to the referenced article, just to set the  record straight, Beamers are BMW motorcycles. BMW cars are Bimmers. Please, let's get our terms straight.  Actually, some purists would argue that the only true Bimmer is a round tail light 2002 or 1600.
My BBB Autoline arbitration experience is over.   The outcome was decidedly mixed.  I won the battle but  lost the war.  The arbitrator found that the car was  defective, but decided to offer a repurchase well below  market value :(.  At the time of the hearing, average  retail on my truck in the NADA book was $21,025, but  the decision was for  $17,665.  I wrote a letter to the  Council of Better Business Bureaus pointing out the  fact that if you have an automobile that does not  depreciate rapidly, the manufacturer has no incentive  to deal with you.  There is no way that the  manufacturer can loose because they can turn around and  sell the vehicle at a profit if the consumer is awarded  a repurchase.  The attitude of Chevrolet's  representative at the hearing tends to support this  point of view;  he was totally unprepared and did not  seem to take the proceeding very seriously.  I decided to take the repurchase, even though I am  getting totally screwed on the price.  I will not have  to deal with continuing repairs or selling a lemon  myself, and I have no case for a civil suit based on  the Idaho lemon law.  I am planning to send a letter to  my elected representatives telling them how utterly  ridiculous the Idaho lemon law is.  The law allows for  a "use deduction" equal to the IRS mileage allowance.   As if Chevrolet were buying my gas and paying  for my insurance.  Summary of the case:  In May 1992 I bought a new 3/4 ton HD Chevrolet pickup.  Between May 1992 and December 1992  this vehicle required repair after repair.  Systems  that required attention included the transmission,  heater fan, paint, suspension, and motor.  The main  problem was the five speed manual transmission.  They  could not install a non-defective transmission in at  least four attempts.  So, in summary, it is possible to get a repurchase, but  you are going to get screwed on the price, unless you  paid too much in the first place, or if your car  happens to be a model that depreciates rapidly.
In article <93113.123459U59985@uicvm.uic.edu> <U59985@uicvm.uic.edu> writes: >I agree with Gaia. Even though the Saturn has proved to be a very reliable car >so far, a little money spent now is worth the peace of mind.  this is an interesting point.  some people are not really buying the coverage, they are buying 'peace of mind', marketing folks love selling that.  i suggest that people *choose* to not engage their minds in peaceless worry rather than buying that 'peace of mind'. > >In my opinion, getting the PowerTrain warranty is enough. In my case, that's be >cause; anything that needed repairing in the interior (sunroof, windows, doors, > etc.) I could do myself. I just didn't want to mess with the engine and such.
Deloreans NEVER had a factory V8.  They were considering production with a turbo (or twin turbo, I forget) version of the standard V6.  As to who produced it, you got me!  Jonathan
dcd@se.houston.geoquest.slb.com (Dan Day) writes: > In article <1qh61m$b6l@armory.centerline.com> jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes: > > > >If the Mustang and/or SHO platform were designed for 130mph, it would > >come with better seatbelts, more supportive seats, a stronger > >passenger compartment cage, better brakes, a stiffer suspension, > >different tires, and a body design that takes advantage of aero > >effects to keep the car on the ground. >  > In other words, it'd be a 1993 RX7.
Hmmm....I was listening to the local radio expert (who is, amazingly enough, an Honest-to-God Expert(tm); it's amazing what he knows...),  and he said that, based on his conversations with the inventor of  Slick50 (who is no longer with the comapny, due to some kind of  conflict), he avoids it like the plague.  He does recommend other  teflon-based/type oil additives, though.  				James
In article <1993Apr20.143930.13144@chpc.org>,  rboudrie@chpc.org (Rob Boudrie) writes... >In article <9285.27317@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> > bob@runway.swdc.stratus.com (Bob Hutson) writes: >>After agreeing to terms I signed the contract and drove home in my new >>car.  Later that same night I noticed that the terms in the were >>different from the terms I had agreed to.  (I made the stupid mistake >>of not checking everything on the contract).  This all happened last >>Saturday.  >>I have heard that there is a "cooling-off" law allowing me three days >>to reconsider the contract.  Is this true?  Can anyone point me to the >>law?  The transaction happened at the dealership, if it matters.  >This cooling off period applies only in certain situations - lik ewhen >you are solicited at home.  I also think the cooling off period ends >if you actually accept the merchandise.  >If this were not the case, any car buyer would have the right to return >a slightly used, highly devalued, car 2 days after buying it.  Yeah -  >that's the trick - if I want to buy a new car, I'd have a firend buy  >& return one, then go in and negotiate a better deal on a pre-owned >used car.  FOR DISCUSSION PURPOSES ONLY  On the other hand, if it can be proven, it's possible the changed  terms could be thrown out.  The question will be whether the  agreement contains a merger clause.  See UCC @ 2-202 (parol  evidence).  If we're talking about warranties, then, of course,  UCC @ 2-316 should be looked at.  But we have so little information that none of us can say anything  conclusive.  						Daniel Reitman
>In article <1pq29p$29p@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM >writes: >> >>Any reason you are limited to the two mentioned? They aren't really at >>the same point along the SUV spectrum - not to mention price range. >>How about the Explorer, Trooper, Blazer, Montero, and if the budget >>allows, the Land Cruiser?  >  >Any advice on HOW to buy a Land Cruiser? My local Toyota dealer says they >get two a year, and if I want one I can just get on the waiting list. >Forget about a test drive or even kicking the tires. >And if they are that rare, I doubt there is much of a parts inventory on hand.  Land Crusier is just simply nice with shit-load of power and room. Fully stocked, it cost ~$40,000.  I think it is worth the money. Only problem is when you get into accident(it doesn't usually break down unless you forget to get a oil change for 30000 miles or something stupid like this), body parts and other parts are very hard to locate.  Parts are over priced also.  One of my friend had accident in past snow storm and he is still waiting for front bumper and passenger side fender.  Well, if you test drive Land Cruiser, all other SUV look like toys. One of magazine writer called it "Land Bruiser".    If you have $40,000 to spare for SUV, get Land Cruiser and forget Lange Rover.
I am considering buying an new car, so I called three insurance companies in California to get estimates. I asked for the same coverage and same deductibles. Most of the companies charge you according to your zip code. Others charge according to your city. Anyhow, I gave the same zip code and city to all three places. Here's what I found (for a '93 Integra GS):  AAA: ~$2000/yr. State Farm: 2614.92/yr. Allstate: 1220/yr.  AAA is non-profit, so they said I could also expect to receive about $200-300 back at the end of the year.  Still, There is a huge gap between all of these companies. State Farm wants MORE than TWICE as much as Allstate. I think I should be suspicious, but I've never heard anybody else complain.  Any comments?