waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <1993Apr6.203237.20841@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, fsset@bach.lerc.nasa.gov (Scott Townsend) wrote: >  > I got a question from my dad which I really can't answer and I'd appreciate > some net.wisdom. >  > His question is about some 18-24" diameter balls which are attached to > electric power lines in his area.  He's seen up to a half dozen between > two poles.  Neither of us have any experience with electric power distribution. > My only guess was that they may be a capacitive device to equalize the > inductance of the grid, but why so many between two poles?. I'll bet there's a runway nearby.
In article <Zw6F3B1w165w@inqmind.bison.mb.ca> Baden de Bari, baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca writes: >Anybody have a 'scoop' on FAIRLY LOW PRICED >BLUE< LED's??? Hosfelt T-1 stock # 25-214 T-1-3/4   # 25-213 Both $1.29 - Vf 3.0..3.4, 470nm, 3mcd @ 10ma, Mfg Liton Call 1-800-524-6464 Disclaimer - dont know these guys from a bar of soap, but the price looks reasonable.
mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes: >>> >>I don't know for sure that this will work, but you might try MEK (methyl >>ethyl keytone?).  It worked getting the stickum left over from shelf paper, >>and is available at paint stores.  Use a carbon gas mask and lots of >>ventilation--this stuff really stinks!   >--  >:-  Michael A. Covington, Associate Research Scientist        :    ***** >:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs      mcovingt@ai.uga.edu :  ********* >:-  The University of Georgia              phone 706 542-0358 :   *  *  * >:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **  <>< If you use MEK for your sake wear safty glasses or better still industrial goggles. The small est drop in the eye will casue blindness by a catalysis reaction that is non cureavble once it starts. The results are similar to mustard gas contamination. Note MEK peroxide is a hardner form fibreglass resins.
alee@bmerh794.bnr.ca (Louis Leclerc) writes:  >  > In article <34263@oasys.dt.navy.mil> you write: > >VA, CT, Wash DC  and I think BC Canada where I've heard they actually > >use Radar detector detectors. >  > Nope, not in British Columbia.  Detectors are legal here in BC, I've even > got one. >  > In Alberta and Ontario they're illegal, and detection devices are sometimes > used.  I've heard the police in Ontario prefer a much more direct method of > detection.  Just trigger the radar gun, watch for people slamming on the > brakes, and search the car. >  >  > David Lee > leex@sfu.ca >    They are illegal here in Manitoba as well though I don't know what  methods are used to detect them.  It has always amazed me with the way the laws work.  It is not illegal to  sell them here in Manitoba, only to have them within a vehicle.  (Last I  heard, they don't have to be installed to be illegal.)
: >I want to upgrade my system and was thinking of buying Adcom seperates. : >I have heard from alot of people, though, that Adcom sounds great but : >that the components are made cheaply and therefore won't last very long. : >The time estimates I've heard are like only 3 or 4 years.  Is this true?  I own the Adcom 60W power amp.  As far as I'm concerned, there's no   amp which can touch it at the price range. The build quality is very impressive and is far superior to other    amps in the price range.  The whole amplifier is extremely solid   with massive heat sinks and very solid casing. If you open the amp up, there are only very good quality components    in and the amp seems to be designed extremely well.  Perfect   symmetry for both channels and TWO transformers - one for each   channel.  The binding posts on the back of the amplifier are   virtually the same as those on the Classe model 70 ie. very good.  I was also sceptical about the amps being built in the far-east   or where-ever.  But if you look in the amp and see what components   they use and how it was designed, you can easily see why the   amplifiers sound so brilliant. I cannot see why people say the amplifier won't last - not with   those quality components inside.  Sure the amp runs very fairly   hot - but that's how you get an amp to sound incredibly good.  My last point, I recently auditioned the Adcom preamp something like   the 545 or something.  It was two years old and it still sounded   like new.  If you build an amplifier decently, like the Adcom's, they will   sound brilliant and last a long time - period.  Just my thoughts, but then - I do own one of Adcom's amps.
erickson@azure.nmt.edu (Alan Erickson) writes:  > 	I'm trying to bring in 8+ bits to a PC, and would like > 	to use interrupt-driven routines. Without buying an IO > 	board or making a new port, _where_ can I bring in these > 	bits? LPT seems to have only a few inputs, but I've heard > 	rumours that some LPTs have bidirectional lines. Anybody > 	know fer sure? If any bi-d LPTs, which boards have them > 	(I'll be running a new 386DX-33)?  I know for sure that the Everex Magic I/O EV-170A can be jumpered for a printer mode, or for a general purpose bidirectional I/O mode.  Also, I know for sure that the IBM Technical Reference says the following about the Monochrome Display & Printer Adapter and the IBM Parallel Printer Adapter:      It is essential that the external device not try to pull these     lines [referring to the data lines] to ground.  And later:      If an external device should be driving data on these pins (in     violation of usage ground rules) at the time of an input, this     data will be `or'ed with the latch contents.  I will accept no responsibility if you incur damages of any kind as a result of my saying, ``I DO NOT know for sure, but I think you should be able to use a traditional parallel port as an input port by writing 0x to the data lines, and then reading from the data lines, while an external device drives them.''  The input data will not be latched, so noise could make this infeasible.
Yes, you increase the RPM slip of a "boxer" type fan by installing a capacitor in series with the fan's power supply.  The air flow of small 3.5 inch fans can be reduced by about 50% by using a 1 to 4 uF capacitor.  Use a good grade nonpolarized unit with working voltage rating around 250 volts.  Note that some impriical study is usually required to experimentally determine the best size capacitor for a given application.  For DC powered applications, try the Radio Shack 12 volt box fan. It can run and start reliably from as low as about 4.5 VDC.  It is exceptionally quiet, but at admittedly low flow.  I wish I knew who made the fans for Radio Shack.
In article <Apr23.223805.66909@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> jmiller@terra.colostate.edu (Jeff Miller) writes:   >In an earlier article Kasey Chang wrote:  >: Nothing, but if you read my WHOLE suggestion, I'm saying that you register >: via MAIL by mailing in your registration card, THEN the company send you >: the patch which includes the info you put on the registration card.  >The problem with this scheme, is that when I buy a game, I want to play it >*THAT* day...mailing a card to and from California would probably take a week >or more.  I didn't say the program is DISABLED, did I?  (I HATE!!!! it when people take my words out of context...)  I mean that once you have installed it, you cannot DEinstall it without registering it, or transfer it to another machine, or SOME SORT OF LIMITATION (the author will decide), WHICH WILL BE REMOVED WHEN THE PROGRAM IS REGISTERED.
In <sasrer.735576383@cinnamon> sasrer@unx.sas.com writes: > services we offered was an engine cleaning (remove all that oil BEFORE you > sell the car...  ;-}). Unfortunately, we did not have a high pressure > washer so we would use one several miles from the shop. On more than one > occasion after washing the engine, it would not start as water would have > gotten under the distributor (I would put a plastic bag around it to try and > minimize this), around the spark plug wires, etc and it would be nearly > IMPOSSIBLE to try and wipe all these areas down with a dry rag. The usual > solution was to carry a can of WD-40, and when the car wouldn't start to spray > all the likely areas and it would then start on the very first time. >  This definately gets the car going, but... WD-40 is highly flammable. Explosive even in the right conditions, like a vapour sealed inside a distributor for eg. And contact points tend to arc a tiny bit :)
Hi there, Can anyone tell me where it is possible to purchase controls found on most arcade style games.  Many projects I am working on would be greatly augmented if I could implement them.  Thanx in advance.
In article <1993Apr21.024036.7394@lynx.dac.northeastern.edu> dnewman@lynx.dac.northeastern.edu (David F. Newman) writes: >Subject: arcade style buttons and joysticks >Can anyone tell me where it is possible to purchase controls found >on most arcade style games.  Many projects I am working on would  What about the common joystick found in all computer shops?
I wrote a commercial program called GAME-MAKER (can you guess what it does).  What we do is have a document protect (answer Question on page x,  line y), which is a real pain.  We also allow the user to register by sending in a card, and computing a # based on their name.  The system works in that we've gotten lots of registration cards. 	I hear that the program has been cracked though.  Someone two people  actually called up my support--one with a question, the other wanting to buy our graphics libraries (right!).  Anyway if anyone wants to help me catch a cracker and has the cracked version, mail me.  I won't accuse you (unless you're the cracker of course).  --                                              Andy Stone       -					     stonea@suned.cs.yale.edu
Excerpts from netnews.sci.electronics: 16-Apr-93 Re: What do Nuclear Site's .. by R_Tim_Coslet@cup.portal.  > From: R_Tim_Coslet@cup.portal.com > Subject: Re: What do Nuclear Site's Cooling Towers do? > Date: Fri, 16 Apr 93 21:27:21 PDT >   > In article: <1qlg9o$d7q@sequoia.ccsd.uts.EDU.AU> >         swalker@uts.EDU.AU (-s87271077-s.walker-man-50-) wrote: > >I really don't know where to post this question so I figured that > >this board would be most appropriate. > >I was wondering about those massive concrete cylinders that > >are ever present at nuclear poer sites. They look like cylinders > >that have been pinched in the middle. Does anybody know what the > >actual purpose of those things are?. I hear that they're called > >'Cooling Towers' but what the heck do they cool? >   > Except for their size, the cooling towers on nuclear power plants > are vertually identical in construction and operation to cooling > towers designed and built in the 1890's (a hundred years ago) for > coal fired power plants used for lighting and early electric railways. >   > Basicly, the cylindrical tower supports a rapid air draft when > its air is heated by hot water and/or steam circulating thru a network > of pipes that fill about the lower 1/3 of the tower. To assist cooling > and the draft, water misters are added that spray cold water over the > hot pipes. The cold water evaporates, removing the heat faster than > just air flow from the draft would and the resulting water vapor is > rapidly carried away by the draft. This produces the clouds frequently > seen rising out of these towers. >   > That slight pinch (maybe 2/3 of the way up the tower) is there because > it produces a very significant increase in the strength and rate of > the air draft produced, compared to a straight cylinder shape. >   > The towers are used to recondense the steam in the sealed steam > system of the power plant so that it can be recirculated back to the > boiler and used again. The wider the temperature difference across > the turbines used in the power plant the more effecient they are and > by recondensing the steam in the cooling towers before sending it > back to the boilers you maintain a very wide temperature difference > (sometimes as high as 1000 degrees or more from first stage "hot" > turbine to final stage "cold" turbine). >   >                                         R. Tim Coslet >   > Usenet: R_Tim_Coslet@cup.portal.com >         technology, n.  domesticated natural phenomena  Great Explaination, however you left off one detail, why do you always see them at nuclear plants, but not always at fossil fuel plants.  At nuclear plants it is prefered to run the water closed cycle, whereas fossil fuel plants can in some cases get away with dumping the hot water.  As I recall the water isn't as hot (thermodynamically) in many fossil fuel plants, and of course there is less danger of radioactive contamination.
In article <sehari.735331566@marge.ecss.iastate.edu> sehari@iastate.edu (Babak Sehari) writes:  >I was wondering, what copy protection techniques are avaliable, and how >effective are they?  Has anyone have any experience in this area? > >                      With highest regards, >                           Babak   Sehari.  One of the easiest, and really very used ways of copyprotection, is to mark  a specific sector on the installation disk bad. This is very easy to get  around, though, if you have any knowledge of hw-hacking, but most 'normal'  users (yes those lowly key-punchers) don't. Whatever you do, please do  _not_ use a hardware key. These were very popular a few years ago, and they  STINK!!  MAIL-mail: gunnarh@sofus.dhhalden.no    SNAIL-mail: Gunnar Horrigmo            gunnarh@fenris.dhhalden.no               Oskleiva 17                                                     N-1772 Norway
In article <1993Apr15.144826.4607@bnr.ca> moffatt@bnr.ca (John Thomson) writes: >: >> >Just a thought of mine here: >: >> >Since an on-hook line is aprox 48-50V, and off-hook it usually drops below 1 >: >> >How about an LED in series with a zener say around 30V. >: >> >On-hook = LED on >: >> >Off-hook = LED off. >: >> >Would this work? If anyone tries/tried it, please let me know. >: >> >: >> Aye, there's the rub -- if you draw enough current to light an LED, the >: >> equipment at the phone company will think you've gone off hook. >: >> In the on-hook state you're not supposed to draw current. >: > >: >Which means you should just use your Digital VoltMeter. You can use an >: >old VOM but the phone company equipment can detect that and might think >: >there's something wrong with the cable. >: > >:  >: Look Guys, what's the problem here?  If you want a light that goes on when  >: the 'phone is *Off* hook, all you need it to run it in *series* with the  >: line, as I mentioned in my previous post.  If you want a light that goes on  >: when the 'phone is *on* hook, all you need is a voltage threshold detector. > >If you're going to do the series Diode thing (which is the easiest), just >make sure that the LED can take the current (I can't recall it off-hand, but >it's something like 100mA or more?)  Careful now folks... Also consider the 90VAC+ @20Hz that is forced on ring and tip when the phone's supposed to ring!  Even with a simple zener and LED setup, you might end up with some carbon real quick.  Whatever scheme you use, make sure you've got at least 200V-rated components on  the frontend.  Also remember that, if I'm not mistaken, the phone line is a 600ohm equivalent circuit.  Any current you draw from the 48V or so gets dropped across that 600ohms.  That's fine until you're down to roughly 12V, when Ma Bell considers it to be off-hook.  But dropping it that far down is probably a big no-no.  The easiest implementation to accomplish the above??      tip  ------->|-----\/\/\/\-----+----------+               rectifier  resistor  |          |               diode                |          \                                     V          /                           zener  /---/        \  resistor                                    |          /                                    |          |                                    |          V   LED                                    |         ---                                    |          |     ring --------------------------+----------+  This is only a suggestion...go ahead and blow holes in it, but you get the idea.  Choose a high-efficiency LED so you don't need much current to get it to light up.  Choose values for the other components as required.
In article <1993Apr27.145201.15495@walter.bellcore.com> deaddio@ski.bellcore.com (Michael DeAddio) writes: >Does anyone know of any type of acceleration sensor that has >an electrical output of any sort?  It would only have to sense >acceleration in one direction. >Thanx, Mike >Michael DeAddio (MTS)         | Work hard, play hard,  >Bell Communication Research   | the only problem is that  >deaddio@thumper.bellcore.com  | playing hard makes  >201-829-5024                  | working harder. >MRE 2Q-260                    |   SETRA SYSTEMS, 4 Nagog Park, Acton, MA 01720, Ph: (617) 263 - 1400 Schaevitz Engineering,  US Rt. 130 & Union Ave., Pennsauken, NJ 08110      Ph: (710) 892 - 0714  Accelerometers are not cheap, mainly because the outputs are fairly linear  with respect to acceleration.  You don't say what the range of acceleration  you want to measure is, and there are other ways in which to measure it  other than using an accelerometer.  Additional information would be helpful  to anyone who may respond.
Hi Could someone please send me enough info to talk to a MK3801? It's some kind of multifunction peripheral chip made by Mostek I believe. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance  Dave
In article <1993Apr22.004728.6736@mtu.edu> cmwolf@mtu.edu (Engineer by Day - Asleep by Night) writes: >Dave Martindale (dave@imax.imax.com) wrote: >: They require two separate grounds.  One ground goes to the ground pin >: of the outlet, and the other ground wire is connected to the outlet's >: mounting tabs (and thus grounds the box and faceplate screw and metal >: faceplate, if any). > >I thought the ground WAS connected to the metal frame on the socket. > >--  >------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >Christopher Wolf             Electrical Engineer                cmwolf@mtu.edu >------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >         Remember, even if you win the Rat Race - You're still a rat.  Not in isolated ground recepticles (usually an unusual color, such as orange or yellow) often used in low noise, low leakage applications, as mentioned earlier in the thread.
Where can you get info (brochures...) on Differential GPS Systems and where to  buy them?
Ferry Toth writes:  >For some time I've been thinking about the possiblity of starting a group >where scientific articles can be published (or perhaps just summaries). >Possible advantages would be: >* Free disribution >* Fast acceptance >* Online discussion between authers and readers  >This would be possible with one group with a moderator for publishing the >articles and one perhaps without for discussion.  >The best thing would be if all the articles would be in a standard format which >would make it possible to print or view the documents camera ready. Perhaps >Postscript or Rich Text Format?  >But how do you start a new group? Anyone interrested?  >Greeting from Ferrie >Electronics Research Laboratory >Delft University of Technology >Delft >Holland  Yep! Sounds good to me. suggestion: sci.electronics.art ?  Best regards,
In article <1993Apr14.181738.18472@bmers95.bnr.ca> alee@bmerh794.bnr.ca (Louis Leclerc) writes: > > In article <34263@oasys.dt.navy.mil> you write: > >VA, CT, Wash DC  and I think BC Canada where I've heard they actually > >use Radar detector detectors. > > Nope, not in British Columbia.  Detectors are legal here in BC, I've even > got one. > > In Alberta and Ontario they're illegal, and detection devices are sometimes > used.  I've heard the police in Ontario prefer a much more direct method of > detection.  Just trigger the radar gun, watch for people slamming on the > brakes, and search the car. > > > David Lee > leex@sfu.ca >  Detectors are legal in Alberta, the old law was overturned a long time ago.  --
If you can find a copy of "8088 Assembler Language Programming: The IBM PC" by Willen and Krantz, 2nd ed. pub. by Sams, there is a discussion of the game control adapter, monostable multivibrators, and conversion to other uses, as well as an assembler program. If you need greater accuracy, there is no reason you couldn't modify the approach to suit your needs.
Aaron Lung (alung@megatest.com) wrote: : >I was also sceptical about the amps being built in the far-east : >  or where-ever.  But if you look in the amp and see what components : >  they use and how it was designed, you can easily see why the : >  amplifiers sound so brilliant.  : Good point...also, I wouldn't be surprised that the components : they use off-shore are of inferior quality.  As long as it was : properly designed and robust, premium components are used, it : shouldn't matter where it is assembled.  Definately, I agree wholeheartedly.  If they can build the amp where   the labour is not so expensive, they can afford to put decent   components in and go to more effort to improve the design of the   amplifier - as Adcom has done.  : >I cannot see why people say the amplifier won't last - not with : >  those quality components inside.  Sure the amp runs very fairly : >  hot - but that's how you get an amp to sound incredibly good.  : An amp that runs hot has no bearing on how it's gonna sound. : The amp you have probably is running Class-A the whole day.  : Actually, I'd be wary of excessively hot amps, 'cauz even though : the components inside may be rated to run that way, excessive  : heat will dramatically shorten the life of *any* electronic component : regardless of quality.  In fact, an amp that does run hot to the touch is : because either the engineer or manufacturer of that amp wanted : to skimp on heatsinking or cooling to save costs!  Hmmmmm....  Sure, I didn't mean to imply that because of the heat generated, the   amp sounds good.  My Adcom GFP 535II runs fairly warm - not hot to   the touch - but enough to satisfy me that the amp is running nicely. I don't like it when an amp runs dead-cold.  It makes one think that   the amp is doing nothing :) The heatsinks that Adcom uses in their amps are certainly far for   skimpy - they're massive things with heating vents both below   and above.  More than enough to carry away excessive heat.  My opinions once again.
I'm working on an audio mixer project, but I'm having trouble finding parts.  I want to use op-amps for the gain control stages.  The ones I have found that are good for audio are LM739 and LM833, but I cannot find either of these in the electronic parts places I've looked.  Are there any good substitute op-amps and/or are there any parts suppliers in the LA area that carry this kind of thing (10KOhm dual audio taper slider pots would be nice, too).  Any info would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.