waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <1qk5oi$d0i@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes: |In article 211353@mavenry.altcit.eskimo.com, maven@mavenry.altcit.eskimo.com (Norman Hamer) writes: |>  |> The question for the day is re: passenger helmets, if you don't know for  |>certain who's gonna ride with you (like say you meet them at a .... church  |>meeting, yeah, that's the ticket)... What are some guidelines? Should I just  |>pick up another shoei in my size to have a backup helmet (XL), or should I  |>maybe get an inexpensive one of a smaller size to accomodate my likely  |>passenger?  | |If your primary concern is protecting the passenger in the event of a |crash, have him or her fitted for a helmet that is their size.  If your |primary concern is complying with stupid helmet laws, carry a real big |spare (you can put a big or small head in a big helmet, but not in a |small one).    Well, you can accomplish both goals, actually, if you have a definite physical type in mind when you go to these (cough) church meetings..  If your tastes tend to smaller, more petite (cough) churchgoers, it is more likely that they will have a smaller head, and you can safely get a medium or small helmet.    This works for me, and I traded my spare large helmet with my best friend, who, at 6'9", tends to look more for women that are over 6'0", and can't usually fit into the medium size helmet he previously had...    Of course, if you aren't picky what size (*cough*) churchgoers you give helpful motorcycle rides to, then Ed's advice will hopefully cover any eventuality as far as legality is concerned, and a spare handtowel in the tankbag makes acceptable padding so the passenger can see out of the viewport (rather than the padding above the viewport) in the cases of extreme mismatch.  Randy Davis                            Email: randy@megatek.com ZX-11 #00072 Pilot                            {uunet!ucsd}!megatek!randy DoD #0013
>>>>> On Wed, 21 Apr 1993 12:30:30 GMT, mjs@sys.uea.ac.uk (Mike Sixsmith) said: Mike> lotto@husc4.harvard.edu (Jerry Lotto) writes: Me> The understanding and ability to swerve was essentially absent among Me> the accident-involved riders in the Hurt study.  Mike> I would agree entirely with these three paragraphs. But did the Hurt Mike> study make any distinction between an *ability* to swerve and a *failure* Mike> to swerve?  Yes, it was specifically the *ability* or understanding of the technique which was absent.  We have made a lot of progress between rider education and responsibility over the last ten-twenty years... but I am still amazed anytime I teach an ERC how many people of many year riding experience "discover" countersteering for cornering or swerving.  Mike> everything else. Hard braking and swerving tend to be mutually exclusive Mike> manouvres - did Hurt draw any conclusions on which one is generally Mike> preferable?  The specific recommandation cited in the Hurt study was that a formal "street strategy", like SIPDE for example, was the most important component of any rider education curriculum.  The specific skills of emergency braking, cornering and swerving must be taught and practiced as well, but more significant was that 35% of rider did NOTHING confronted with a potential accident, and another third collided or fell over as a result of rider error.  The choice of specific maneuver is much less significant to the outcome than early detection and the proper execution of ANY effective countermeasure.
In article <121765@netnews.upenn.edu> sanjay@kin.lap.upenn.edu (Sanjay Sinha) writes: > >I just noticed that my halogen table lamp runs off 12 Volts. >The big thinngy that plugs into the wall says 12 Volts DC,  20mA > >The question is: Can I trickle charge the battery on my CB650 >with it?  You could, but it would be considerably cheaper to spend $8 or so on a trickle charger from K-Mart, Venture, or Target, then it would be to replace the halogen lamp power supply after you fuse it trying to pump current into the battery...  While charging, the charger should be putting out around 14 or 15 volts as well...
bergman@panix.com (Mark Bergman) writes: ]To those of you who have the BMW heated handgrips: ]	Are they comfortable? Do they transmit a lot of ]	vibration? How do they compare to the stock grips? ]	To foam grips?   I don't have the grips, but have looked into getting them. it's my  understanding that the grips themselves are the standard european  style grips now coming standard on the 93 bikes (K1100RS, K1100LT, etc). it's also my understanding that the heater resides _inside_ the bar  itself so if anything I would suspect it would reduce vibration by  providing more bar end mass.  I don't see why they wouldn't work with the old style foam grips aside from the fact that it might cause the foam to deteriorate or something. hard to belive considering they do fine in the 100+ degree texas summers.  'course, I don't actually have them so you can save your flames.
In article <C5xy2x.35G@world.std.com> artc@world.std.com (Art Campbell) writes: >bergman@panix.com (Mark Bergman) writes: > >>To those of you who have the BMW heated handgrips: > >>	What are they like during the summer? Yes, you >>	wiseguy, I mean while they are off! > >>	Are they comfortable?  >They're a hard rubber-like compound. I always wear some kind of glove >(fingerless) on the hottest days. Given those two factors, >They're OK, but certainly not cushy.  When I needed heated grips I made them from pieces of an old bicycle inner tube and a cheap electric heating pad from the drugstore, on top of foam grips: soft *and* warm.  Cheaper by about a factor of 5, too.
In article <1993Apr15.215428.11116@research.nj.nec.com> behanna@syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna) writes: >In article <1993Apr15.180644.25263@ll.mit.edu> jburnside@ll.mit.edu (jamie w burnside) writes: >>( Sure is alot harder to load on a trailer than the KDX200 was. )  I should >>be road legal tomorrow.  I am ignoring the afforementioned concerns about  >>the transmission and taking my chances. > >	There should be no worries about the trans. > >>Being a reletively new reader, I am quite impressed with all the usefull >>info available on this newsgroup.  I would ask how to get my own DoD number, >>but I'll probably be too busy riding ;-). > >	Does this count?  Yes.  He thought about it. > >$ cat dod.faq | mailx -s "HAHAHHA" jburnside@ll.mit.edu (waiting to press >							 return...) > >Later, >--  >Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1983 H-D FXWG Wide Glide - Jubilee's Red Lady >behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike >Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  1991 ZX-11 - needs a name >agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.  Jack Waters II DoD#1919
Mark Kromer, on the Thu, 15 Apr 1993 00:42:46 GMT wibbled: : In an article rtaraz@bigwpi (Ramin Taraz) wrote:  : >Does the "amount of exhaust allowed to leave the engine through the : >exhaust pipe" make that much of a difference? the amount of air/fuel : >mixture that a cylender sucks in (tries to suck in) depends on the : >speed of the piston when it goes down.   : ...and the pressure in the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stroke.  : With a poor exhaust system, this pressure may be above atmospheric. : With a pipe that scavenges well this may be substantially below : atmospheric.  This effect will vary with rpm depending on the tune of : the pipe; some pipes combined with large valve overlap can actually : reverse the intake flow and blow mixture out of the carb when outside : the pipes effective rev range.  : >Now, my question is which one provides more resistence as far as the : >engine is conserned: : >) resistance that the exhaust provides  : >) or the resistance that results from the bike trying to push itself and : >  the rider  : Two completely different things.  The state of the pipe determines how : much power the motor can make.  The load of the bike determines how : much power the motor needs to make.  : -- : - )V(ark)<  FZR400 Pilot / ZX900 Payload / RD400 Mechanic   :                    You're welcome.  Well I, for one, am so very glad that I have fuel injection!  All those  needles and orifices and venturi and pressures... It's worse than school human biology reproduction lessons (sex).  Always made me feel a bit queasy. --  Nick (the Simple Minded Biker)   DoD 1069   Concise Oxford   Tube Rider  M'Lud.
In a previous article, phj@remus.rutgers.edu (P. Ju) says:  >nuet_ke@pts.mot.com (KEITH NUETZMAN X3153 P7625) writes: > >A friend of mine (who's probably reading this right now) just bought a new >Yamaha Virago 750.  After spending 1-2 hours very late one chilly evening >watching him struggle with the bolts (had to remove the right peg, loosen >the brake pedal, &c. &c.) I've pretty much decided never to get this >particular model unless he or someone else wants to change the oil/filter >for me.  Compared to the 5-minute change he was used to for his Honda, this >is just a design flaw/oversight in my eyes. > > >Patricia >phj@remus.rutgers.edu > Sure don't know what bike was being worked on but it sure wasn't a Virago.  I've owned both the 750 and 1100 and you can do the filter change in about 5 mins and nothing has to be removed.  Obviously the "new" bike was modified as the stock machine is simple to work on.   Watching for imitators!!
Because riding a passenger doesn't really depend on the type of bike. The things you want a passenger to do/not do is the same.  Ergo, if he's asking advice, I reasoned he doesn't have much practice, period.  If you say he does, fine.  I still wouldn't take the uninitiated up a road that's all switch backs and reverse/center/uncrowned roadway, not to mention the BDCs and squids who will also be on that particular road.  He asked for advice, and even though it wasn't what he meant, I still consider it some of the best I've read.
mjs@sys.uea.ac.uk (Mike Sixsmith) writes:  >bobm@brimstone (Bob Morley) writes:  >>In article <sfpPIsK00WB64HPO5e@andrew.cmu.edu>, Catherine Barbara Saum <cs20+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes: >>> While "passngering" on my fiance's Bandit, my hip-pack rubbed against the tail >>> and left a nasty dull finish and teeny scratches. Is there a way to get >>> rid of these?  Buff them out?  Wax them out? help!  McGuyers makes a full line of polishing compounds and waxes... Read the lables and pick the one that matches the marks that you see on the paint. Then do both you and your fiance a favor by putting a nice thick coat of the carnuba wax on the bike. After that those little scratches will just buff out.
In article <C61r0B.C7@world.std.com>, 	 daved@world.std.com (Dave T Dorfman) writes... ]I was enjoying lunch this saturday at foodies in Milford NH with an assortment ]of other nedod folks when Dean Cookson ( yes he has not left the  ]country, yet) mentioned that the wiring diagram of the VFR750  ]shows that  the light switch is a three position switch.   ]high beam ]low beam ]Both beams  ]Well the actual ergonomics of the switch make it appear to be a ]2 position switch, but sure enough as Deam expected , when ]you balance the toggle switch in the center position both the high ]and low beams go on.  ]This provides a very nice light coverage of the road.  ]This is true for the St11 and the VFR750 and I would expect for any  ]other late model Honda with the standard two position light switch.  ]Thanks to Dean for reading the schematics, try it you'll like it.  	Be a bit careful doing this; I used to balance the switch on my GS550B avec Cibie' H4 insert so that both beams were on.  I eventually fried the main ignition switch, as it wasn't designed to pass that sort of current.
In article <C4zKCL.FGC@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> Eric@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (93CBR900RR) writes: >Would someone please post the countersteering FAQ...i am having this awful >time debating with someone on why i push the right handle of my motorcycle  >foward when i am turning left...and i can't explain (well at least) why this  >happens...please help...post the faq...i need to convert him. > >				eric
Apparently, the only place to take the MSF course around here in NC is at a community college.  That woudl preclude some sort of state subsidation, then, no?
In rec.motorcycles, sheppamj@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (Matthew Sheppard) writes: >All our local 'experts' say it's the tappits that need some adjusting so >I am soon to attempt that.  I would like any advice anyone had.  I do >not have a shop manual but have read about the procedure in Chiltons and >in a few other places.  Is there anything I need to be particularaly >carful of?  Any problems anyone else has encountered?  I would stongly recommend a factory service manual, and if you are not an experienced machanic then get a chiltons or haynes (sp?) ALSO. Make sure the bike has cooled at least 6 hours since being run. Read the books and if you have more questions you could mail me. Also, be very careful when tightening valve cover bolts.  They take very little torque and breaking one is disaster.
cjackson@adobe.com (Curtis Jackson) writes:  > In article <MJMUISE.38.733926270@1302.watstar.uwaterloo.ca> MJMUISE@1302.wats > }I think the cops and "Don't You Dare Drink & Drive" (tm) commercials will  > }usually say 1hr/drink in general, but after about 5 drinks and 5 hrs, you  > }could very well be over the legal limit.  > }Watch yourself. >  > Indeed, especially if you are "smart" and eat some food with your > drink. The food coating the stomach lining (especially things like > milk) can temporarily retard the absorption of alcohol. When the > food is digested, the absorption will proceed, and you will > actually be drunker (i.e., have a higher instantaneous BAC) than > you would have been if you had drunk 1 drink/hr. on an empty stomach. >  > Put another way, food can cause you to be less drunk than drinking on > an empty stomach early on in those five hours, but more drunk than > drinking on an empty stomach later in those five hours. > --  > Curtis Jackson	   cjackson@mv.us.adobe.com	'91 Hawk GT	'81 Maxim 650 > DoD#0721 KotB  '91 Black Lab mix "Studley Doright"  '92 Collie/Golden "George > "There is no justification for taking away individuals' freedom >  in the guise of public safety." -- Thomas Jefferson  Again, from my alcohol server's class: The absolute *most* that eating before drinking can do is slow the absorption down by 15 minutes.  That gives me time to eat, slam one beer, and ride like hell to try to make it home in the 10 minutes left after paying, donning  helmet & gloves, starting bike...
Grf. Dropped my Shoei RF-200 off the seat of my bike while trying to rock  it onto it's centerstand, chipped the heck out of the paint on it...    So I cheerfully spent $.59 on a bottle of testor's model paint and  repainted the scratches and chips for 20 minutes.    Then, while it was drying, I realized that I was out of smokes and that my  cage is not currently running... So I "had to" take my bike down to the  store. Not wanting to mess up my paint job, I said "Well, heck. I can just  use my old helmet".... this is your standard el cheapie openface...      I didn't notice a big difference when I switched TO the shoei, but  switching back was really bad...     1) Doesn't fit worth a damn, too wide in the sides, too short front to  back...  2) With a faceplate, it's still bloody windy... with the shoei, I normally  ignore the face shield until I get up to about 30ish... with this one,  taxiing to the end of the driveway was too smegging much wind.
In a previous article, npet@bnr.ca (Nick Pettefar) says:  >Jonathan E. Quist, on the Thu, 15 Apr 1993 14:26:42 GMT wibbled: >: In article <txd.734810267@Able.MKT.3Com.Com> txd@ESD.3Com.COM (Tom Dietrich) writes: >: >>In a previous article, egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) says: > >: [lots of things, none of which are quoted here] > >The nice thing about horses though, is that if they break down in the middle of >nowhere, you can eat them.  	And they're rather tasty.   >  Fuel's a bit cheaper, too. >  	Per gallon (bushel) perhaps. Unfortunately they eat the same amount every day no matter how much you ride them. And if you don't fuel them they die. On an annual basis, I spend much less on bike stuff than Amy the Wonder Wife does on horse stuff. She has two horses, I've got umm, lesseee, 11 bikes. I ride constantly, she rides four or five times a week. Even if you count  insurance and the cost of the garage I built, I'm getting off cheaper than  she is. And having more fun (IMHO).    > > --  Go fast. Take chances.
In article <1993Apr5.151323.7183@rd.hydro.on.ca> jlevine@rd.hydro.on.ca writes:  >In article <C4wKFs.BC1@eskimo.com> maven@eskimo.com (Norman Hamer) writes: >>Question for the day: >> >>What protective gear is the most important? I've got a good helmet (shoei >>rf200) and a good, thick jacket (leather gold) and a pair of really cheap >>leather gloves... What should my next purchase be? Better gloves, boots, >>leather pants, what? > >I would go for the gloves. There's not a whole lot that you can do in life if >you have no skin on your hands.   Yup! Ruins your sex life!  Tony
Re: Rubbing Compound....   You mean Meguire's* didn't work?    * THE DOD magic elixir of choice for plastic stuff
mbeaving@bnr.ca (Michael Beavington) writes:  >The down side is that when I'm in my cage, I have on numerous occasions >slammed my hand into the rolled up window in an effort to wave at >a passing biker.  Ow.
In article <1qkhrm$7go@agate.berkeley.edu> manish@uclink.berkeley.edu (Manish Vij) writes: > >Can someone recommend how to ship a motorcycle from San Francisco >to Seattle?  And how much might it cost? > >I remember a thread on shipping.  If someone saved the instructions >on bike prep, please post 'em again, or email. > >Thanks, > >Manish  Step 1) Join the AMA (American Motorcycling Association).  Call 1-800-AMA-JOIN.  Step 2) After you become a member, they will ship your bike, UNCRATED to  just about anywhere across the fruited plain for a few hundred bucks.  I have used this service and have been continually pleased.  They usually only take a few days for the whole thing, and you do not have to prepare the bike in any way (other than draining the gas).  Not to mention that it is about 25% of the normal shipping costs (by the time you crate a bike and ship it with another company, you can pay around $1000)
In article <1993Apr19.223026.10137@Pacesetter.COM> lynn@pacesetter.com (Lynn E. Hall) writes: > > I just got back from the 11th Annual Southern California Harley Dealers >Association Run to the Colorado river city of Lauglin, Nevada. > >AKA - the Lauglin Run >  I went there too.  All I can say is  "TOO MUCH TRASH".
In article <1993Apr15.220511.11311@research.nj.nec.com> behanna@syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna) writes: >	Do I have to be the one to say it? > >	DON'T BE SO STUPID AS TO LEAVE YOUR HELMET ON THE SEAT WHERE IT CAN >	FALL DOWN AND GO BOOM!  True enough. I put it on the ground if it's free of spooge, or directly on my head otherwise.  >	That kind of fall is what the helmet is designed to protect against.  Not exactly. The helmet has a lot less energy if your head isn't in it, and there's no lump inside to compress the liner against the shell. Is a drop off the seat enough to crack the shell? I doubt it, but you can always send it to be inspected.
Oh boy, a little K-bike versus /2 scuffling? Grow up! And that goes for the both of you!  I do hope that the "dump dempster" campaign works however. I think that he is a crook, and I am suprised that it has taken this long for anything to be done (though obviously, it ain't over yet) On the other hand,  I'm not sure that I want to be in bed with ANY of the wackos running. Throwing $20.oo down a rathole might be more effective than sending it in to the club. You wouldn't get anything, but you don't get anything now.  The magazine you say? Ever since the MOA politburo installed Don it has lacked any sort of panache it may have had.   Ah, but what would I know? I own a /6 AND a K-bike
Mark Bergman (bergman@panix.com) wrote:  : To those of you who have the BMW heated handgrips:  : 	What are they like during the summer? Yes, you : 	wiseguy, I mean while they are off!  : 	Are they comfortable? Do they transmit a lot of : 	vibration? How do they compare to the stock grips? : 	To foam grips?   : Do they really make a difference during the winter?  I just got a K75 and had the heated grips installed.  As far as I can tell the grips look and feel the same as the standard grips.  They are *not* soft.  Last weekend I did a 500 mile round-trip and got to a point where it was in the 30s and raining.  Those heated grips were *great*.  I've only had the bike a month and the heated grips are already one of my favorite features on the bike.
: In article <1993Apr14.181352.6246@ra.msstate.edu> vech@Ra.MsState.Edu (Craig A. Vechorik) writes: : >If I remember correctly, the reason that BMW's come with those expensive, : >and relatively worthless, short lived Varda batteries, is 'cause BMW owns : >a controling interest in that battery Manufacturer.                   : What's wrong with the BMW battery? I've never had problems and I know : numerous people that are still using the original battery in there : 8-10 year old beemers.  THe original battery in an 8-10 year old BMW may be fine.  Mine lasted many years.  The replacement 30AH battery from BMW was a disaster.  The mechanic from Comp. Acc. told me that CA would warantee replace the bad one with a new one of the same evil bad batteries and tell the customer if they have problems to bring it back and they'd do it again.  It seems that many of those 30AH batteries were DOA, near-DOA, and always unlikely to be going strong by the end of the warantee period on them.  THere was a big batch of bad ones, and they replaced them with -you guessed it - more bad ones.  BMW switched to a 25AH battery that has more cold cranking amps, even if it has less total juice.    I switched to a YUASA that has even more cold cranking amps and cost one third fewer dollars.
On the other side of the fence, I owned a Bieffe off-road helmet. Took what I would consider a minor fall, and had visible damage to the shell.  Yes, the helmet did its job.  But the damage/impact ratio was scary.  I own Bell Moto-5 now, have taken impacts on order of twice the Bieffe impact (we do this frequently in MX), and don't even have a scratch on it after two seasons.  My recommendation is to buy _high_ quality gear.  YMMV.
In article <1993Apr23.121316.1564@news.columbia.edu>, rdc8@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Robert D Castro) writes: |> When/How do you decide that it is too windy to ride? |>   Too easy.  When you are dragging your pegs while driving in a  straight line.  Actually I've driven in 50 mph side winds with just a little difficulty.
Does anybody share my opinion that in big-city traffic a bike can be so low-powered that for example it cant accelerate out of trouble when necessary..the "screwed-down" versions of bikes sold on the German market with the different classes of liscence seems to make a lot of middle aged men putt putt around on 25-40Km/Hr maschines that are constantle getting in the way of "real" traffic!  Does anybody else have opinions on this topic!?  snuffy  --
I'm selling the following items...  	- a pair of hard saddle bags  	- easy installation  	- snap release feature with lock 	- black  	- brand is Krusures  	- two oshi full face helmets  	take all for $275  These are comming off of my bike that I'm selling, maybe  you could use the whole thing, bike and accessories.  	1983 Yamaha, vision 550   	call Medi @ work (415) 940-2306 		    home (408) 744-1169  Thanks
JACK ROGERS WATERS (jrwaters@eos.ncsu.edu) wrote: : In article <1ppejb$3h0@vtserf.cc.vt.edu> ranck@joesbar.cc.vt.edu (Wm. L. Ranck) writes: : > : >Well, at least I damaged my own bike.  If I had done it to someone else's : >property I'd *really* feel like a jerk.  As it is I just feel stupid. : > : I don't mean to be a cynic but . . . . you may want to reconsider : having the body work done right away.  The same type of thing : may happen again.  Wait till you get used to the bike, etc.  Well, I waited a whole week to take the pastic bits off and take them to the body shop.  Is that long enough :-) --