waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In a previous article, a207706@moe.dseg.ti.com (Robert Loper) says:  >In article <C5L8rE.28@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu> callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) writes: >>In article <1993Apr15.232412.2261@ganglion.ann-arbor.mi.us> david@ganglion.ann-arbor.mi.us (David Hwang) writes: >>>In article <5214@unisql.UUCP> wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie) writes: >>>>In article <chrissC587qB.D1B@netcom.com> chriss@netcom.com (Chris Silvester) writes: >>>> >> >>Why anyone would order an SHO with an automatic transmission is >>beyond me; if you can't handle a stick, you should stick with a >>regular Taurus and leave the SHO to real drivers. That is not to >>say that there aren't real drivers who can't use the stick (eg >>disabled persons), but they aren't in any position to use an >>SHO anyway.  >> >>I would be willing to bet that if we removed the automatic >>transmissions from all "performance-type" cars (like the 5.0l >>Mustangs, Camaros, and the like) we'd cut down on the number of >>accidents each year. Autos are fine for sedate little sedans, >>but they have no business in performance cars, IMHO. >> >>				James >> >I have to disagree with this.  I have a 92 Z28 with a 350 and a 4-speed auto >w/ overdrive, and it is really better that way.  Chevy autos are reknowned >for their long life and ability to handle copious amount of power.  I live  >in the Dallas area, and a manual would be much harder to drive in the traffic  >here.  Now if I still lived out in the sticks like I used to, a manual would be >more fun.   > >Safety-wise, an auto is less distracting...I would hate to have to be     >shifting gears while I was trying to ease into traffic in the freeways here. >Performance-wise, I can hold my own against any stock 5.0 Mustang or 5.0 >Camaro w/ a five speed.   > >All of this IMHO... :)  all of my HO's disagree with your HO's.  I LOVED Dallas rush hour in my stick.. detested it in the auto(like i did any other time in the auto...).  Of course, Dalls rush hours are nothing, from what i hear..if i lived in LA, i might be of a different persuasion.  And, just for the record, rarely do you shift gears when merging into traffic..that is what 5 speeds are good for..4th is good up through around 80-90, most of the time, so you can just wind it out.. it's not going to hurt anything, and keeps it in the powerband anyway.. only shift into top gear when you are exceeding redline in 4th(fairly rare, unless you drive a ferrari or some such, i'd bet) or when you hit cruising  speed where you feel comfortable(or when my mother is sitting in the  passanger seat complaining about how you wind her "poor little engine" way too hi :-) Just my HO's..
thwang@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Tommy Hwang) writes:  >	Sorry for the mis-spelling, but I forgot how to spell it after  >my series of exams and NO-on hand reference here.  >	Is it still possible to get those cute WWII VW Jeep-wanna-be's? >A replica would be great I think.    >							-TKH '93  According to _The Complete Guide To Specialty Cars_, 7th Edition, from Crown Publishing, it's the VW Kubelwagen (w/ 2 dots over the 'u'). The company is:     Wolfkam    P.O. Box 1608, Vika    0119 Oslo 1, Norway     011-47-30-26601 voice line    011-47-2-166138 FAX line   An excerpt from the blurb:     ...This fine Kubel clone from Wolfkam is a very close copy of    the original, and offers the same all-weather and cross-country    capabilities as its WWII forebears.  The robust fiberglass body    kit is very complete, and includes all the hardware you will    need, except for your own VW donor car.  The phone number [...]    is the entire AT&T dialing sequence; call and ask for Karl    Torum, or send $5 cash or _International Money Order_    for a complete literature package.   George.  P.S., I'd be happy to share what info I have on other kit cars and       kit car manufacturers.
In article <C5yBo4.E5I@vcd.hp.com> dmunroe@vcd.hp.com (Dave Gauge) writes: >If you had free reign to design your own instrument cluster, which >gauges would you choose to have beyond the basic set?  Turbo boost is necessary if a turboed car. Fuel reserve warning. Coolant level warning.  It would also be nice to have a gauge that would cycle across the different sensors in the FI system such as O2 sensor, altitude, Air Flow...  I'd love to get Tranny and diff. Brake temp would be great...  And a BIG ASS tach.  :)  Sean
Last night I had a dream that my dad bought a Viper. I took it out for a test drive, without his knowledge, and had to push it all the way home just to avoid a ticket. Wierd dream, I wonder what it means....
>> >>The reason I ask is because I went to a classic car meet here in the UK, >>and saw a very nice old De Soto, 1920's vintage I'd guess, with wooden >>artillery type wheels, etc, but it was right-hand drive. I can't believe >>that DeSoto produced RHD cars just for the UK....  Well Sweden and Australia, and lord knows wherever else used to drive on the "wrong" side of the road, so the export market might have been larger then than just the UK.  >i'm guessing, but i believe in the twenties we probably drove mostly down >cattle trails and in wagon ruts.  I am fairly sure that placement of the  >steering wheel was pretty much arbitrary to the company at that time.....  By the 1920s, there was a very active "good roads" movement, which had its origins actually in the 1890s during the bicycle craze, picked up steam in the teens (witness the Linclon Highway Association, 1912 or so, and the US highway support act (real name: something different) in 1916 that first pledged federal aid to states and counties to build decent roads. Also, the experience of widespread use of trucks for domestic transport during WW 1 convinced the government that good raods were crucial to our national defense.  Anyway, by the 20s there were plenty of good roads, at least around urban areas, and they were rapidly expanding into the countryside.  This was the era, after all, of the first auto touring fad, the motel, the auto camp ground, etc. Two good books on the subject spring to mind - Warren Belasco "America on the Road" (title may not be exact - author is) and another called "The Devil Wagon in God's Country" author I forget.  Also, any of John Flink's  or John Bell Rae's auto histories.  As to placement of the steering wheel being arbitrary, by the early teens there were virtually no American cars that did not have the wheel on the left.  In the early days, cars had the wheel on the left, on the right, and even in the middle, as well as sometimes having a tiller instead of a wheel.  This was standardized fairly early on, though I don't know why.   Dan dh3q@andrew.cmu.edu Carnegie Mellon University Applied History
In article <AfqzkhS00iV1E2YIss@andrew.cmu.edu> "Joseph D. Mazza" <mazz+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes: >BTW, I just saw the new Q45 on TV this weekend.  The big changes: a >GRILLE has been added (looks nice, too!), and some WOOD for the >interior.  Otherwise, it looked largely unchanged.   They changed the lights and slope of the hood, along with the new grille.  Otherwise, it is unchanged.  Interestingly, their lack of wood and lack of a grille was a BIG design statement... they tried to defy conventional wisdom and carve their own niche ... unfortunately, sales were only half those of the LEXUS and hence, they now join the pack.  I still wonder if much of the problem wasn't the slow start from the initial AD campaign.  Personally, I like the Q without the Grille.
Having recently purchased a 93 Probe with clear-coat paint, I  would like to give it a good wax job.  What is the Best type of wax to use for this type of finish?  Is paste or liquid better? I would be waxing it by hand, and buffing it by hand, I guess using cheesecloth to buff it (anything better you would suggest?).  I've heard comments here before about things like Turtle Wax and Raindance not being very good, so I'm wondering what is recommended for a quality finish.  Thanks in advance. Bill
You guys are correct.  The Bricklin was produced in Canada. The National Museum of Science and Technology here in Ottawa has one, and sometimes they put it on display.  Most of the time, it stays in storage because the museum doesn't have much room. It's a big deal for a car to be Canadian and that's why they  have it.  If anybody's a fan, they also have a nice green '73 Riviera that looks like it just came out of the showroom. --  MIKE HARKER OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA VOICE: 613-823-6757
>Eliot is right about 2.2 liter engine in the second (and last) generation >MR2's. But the original guy did not indicate the year of his MR2. If it's a >first generation car (like my '85), it has 1.6 liter engine (or perhaps >same engine with a supercharger, if it's '87 -'89). >The sound he describes is common to any older Toyota engine I ever heard. >I don't know the relevance of his observations about oil changes, my simply >makes noise. Not all that annoying, mind you. But you hear it well when the >engine is right behind your left ear :-) >Mike.S  Sorry 'bout that - Mine is a '91 model non-turbo 2.0. (with ABS and revised suspension (whatever revised means)). I'm in Australia, so we always seem to  get the versions without extras which the Europeans and Americans get as  standard.  My query is, - why does the noise get noticeably LOUDER about 2-3 months after an oil change. I just find it a bit wierd that this happens. Is it the oil I'm using (Mobil 1) or is it the engine (the 3S-GE version/model) ie. gets noiser the older the oil is (I'm only guessing).   Its not annoyingly distressing or anything, but just slightly puzzling.
>ip02@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Danny Phornprapha) writes: >>I'm getting a car in the near future.  I've narrow it down to 300ZX and SC300. >>Which might be a better choice? >>Thanks for your opnion, >>Danny   >I've been asking myself this same question for the past year, so, if/when >you find out, would you please share the magistic answer with me..  >The way I see it right now, work twice as hard so you can have both. >cheers :) >Issa
Is it ok to take the car out of gear without using the clutch (while the car is turned off)?  Thanks in advance.  Please reply by mail.
In article <20APR199310391109@csa3.lbl.gov> jtchew@csa3.lbl.gov (Ad absurdum per aspera) writes: >Wharf Wrat rites: > >>They were designed for speeds of upwards of 80 - I forget the >>exact spec - but for military vehicles.  That's 80 in a 1958 Dodge  >>Powerwagon.  Not 80 in a 1993 Ford Taurus. > >Ever' once in a while, you still see a reference to the super- >slab system as "Interstate and Defense Highways."  But whether >the military has much of anything that goes 80 on the road is >another matter.  A few of their most whomped-up diesel trucks, >maybe, load permitting.  The military surplus stuff I've >driven -- "Jeep Classic" (Willys/Kaiser/AMC, pre-independent >suspension) and Power Wagons (Slant 6 in a crew-cab pickup)  Actually, I've heard that some M1 Abrams tank commanders take the  governers off their turbine engines, and can acheive 90MPH on a paved road.  Never seen it myself, but I believe it...  >weren't exactly congenial at highway speeds, and I wouldn't >swear any of them would do 80 except as a bedload on a semi.  [stuff deleted]  > >--Joe >"Just another personal opinion from the People's Republic of Berkeley"   ----------------------------------------------------------------------------         ___                  / _ \                 '85 Mustang GT                        Bob Pitas       /    /USH              14.13 @ 99.8                      bpita@ctp.com      / /| \                  Up at NED, Epping, NH           (Cambridge, MA)                             "" - Geddy Lee (in YYZ) Disclaimer: These opinions are mine, obviously, since they end with my .sig!
Another user recently requested info about the Shadow/Sundance cars, but I haven't seen any public responses.  What are people's experiences with these cars?  Daryl
Any one with experience in having a centreforce clutch (or any other) on his/her car? I'm considering to replace my old stock clutch on my 90 CRX Si. What is a fair price?
In article <1r7js5$k50@biz.ecs.umass.edu> suri@ganzer.ecs.umass.edu () writes: >hi, >would someone like to post a comparative analysis (quantitative >measures -hp etc and more so the qualitative feel of how they compare >for the driving feel, handling, noise, responsiveness etc) for the >saab 900/9000's and the bmw 3/5 series. >any comments on just comparing the 900 with the 9000 re: handling.  >i take it that the saabs and bmw's are comparable for reliability and >all that....would be nice if flaming wars could be avoided and >folks just post their experiences ..  I had a '82 Saab 900 Turbo, and now have a '87 BMW 325is  There is no comparison for handling, reliability, or overall quality of engineering. The BMW wins hands down. After 5 years I was sick and tired of the all the little problems and entropic decay of the SAAB. The 6-year old BMW is still as sweet as it was new.  But I see you are posting from western MA. BMW's **SUCK** in the snow. I have aggressive snows, plus a hundred pounds of sand in the back, and I still try to avoid driving in the snow. I happily took the SAAB through blizzard conditions without a worry. I would say this is the single design flaw in the BMW.
As the subject says.  It has 70k and my brother-in-law wants $250.  Please don't reply to me as I am posting this for him. Here's his numbers :               5pm-10pm   712 676 3669               daytime    712 269 1261
-- In article <1993Apr20.231748.26273@convex.com>, maynard@convex.com (Mark Maynard) writes: |>Newsgroups: rec.autos |>Path: llpost!ll.mit.edu!xn.ll.mit.edu!ames!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!bogus.sura.net!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!dptspd!tamsun.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!maynard |>From: maynard@convex.com (Mark Maynard) |>Subject: Re: Opel owners? |>Message-ID: <1993Apr20.231748.26273@convex.com> |>Sender: Mark Maynard	 |>Nntp-Posting-Host: trojan.convex.com |>Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA |>References: <gibbonsa.735339907@sfu.ca> <C5sxI4.J9B@news.cso.uiuc.edu> |>Distribution: rec.autos |>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 93 19:17:48 GMT+5:00 |>X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer |>              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and |>              not necessarily those of CONVEX. |>Lines: 22 |> |>In article <C5sxI4.J9B@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: |>>gibbonsa@fraser.sfu.ca (Darren Gibbons) writes: |>> |>>>I'm looking for information on Opel cars.  Now you ask, which model? |>>>Well, the sad truth is, I'm not entirely sure, but it's a two-seater, |>>>with roll-over headlights, hard top, and really sporty looking. |>>>gibbonsa@sfu.ca |>>	 |>>	This would be the manta, would it not???  Sold through Buick dealers in the mid '70's as the price leader???? |>>	Chintan Amin |> |> |>Sounds more like an Opel GT.  Neat cars, fun to drive.  Sold through |>Buick from 196? through 1973 (if I remember correctly).  I believe it |>was in '72 that there were some engine mods made such that parts |>were not interchangeable with the older models.  Parts are thus much |>harder to come by for the later models.  Parts in general are not |>too difficult to find.  At one time JC Whitney carried some stuff |>including a brand new (not remfg) long block.  Either a GT or a |>Kharman Ghia (hmm that spelling looks hosed) will be my next project. |> |>Mark |>  In 1972, they lowered the engine compression so that it would run on regular gas (not to mention the addition of emission controls).  The '72  also added pop-out rear quarter windows...  Alot of parts are available for the GT from C & R Small Cars in CT and used from Bill Daley's Opel Parts in MA....   ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Matthew R. Singer                                    MIT Lincoln Laboratory (617) 981-3771                                       244 Wood Street singer@ll.mit.edu                                    Lexington, MA 02173
In article <C5HHGM.1rM@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu>, callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) writes: | In article <1993Apr13.215605.26252@slcs.slb.com> dcd@se.houston.geoquest.slb.com (Dan Day) writes: | >In article <1q4466INNb85@ctron-news.ctron.com> smith@ctron.com writes: | >> | >>It's a big aftermarket business.  Almost no cars come from the factory with | >>vynal any more, and any fake "convertible" job _definitely_ came from some | >>aftermarket place.  What amazes me is how much people are willing to pay for | >>bad taste | > | >How about those really ugly fake wheel compartments stuck onto the | >trunk or side (or both sides!) of some tacky luxury cars? |  | Some of 'em aren't fake (if you're talking about the Continental kit, | named after the Lincoln Continental, the first car to sport one). I | personally would _love_ to have a '56 T-Bird with a Continental kit | (and the supercharged V-8 :-); that is one of the most beautiful | cars ever built, IMHO. |  | 				James |   The Continental may have been the first "modern era" auto to mount the spare on the rear of the car but it was hardly the first car to sport one. Various mounting techniques for rear mounting the spare were quite common in early automobiles, both US and Foreign.
> >And bythe way 5.0 and Camaro both have drums on the rear breaks ... >Hello , this is the 90 's ? > >Vlasis Theodore
Does that mean that they're gonna bring back the Biscayne and Bel Air?
In article <C5xtp7.MtB@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> jmh@hopper.Virginia.EDU (Jeffrey Hoffmeister) writes: >In article <1993Apr22.192652.3032@virginia.edu> jmm4h@Virginia.EDU ("The Blade Runner") writes: >>I just have got to remind all of you that this is it!  Yes, >>that's right, somtime this fall, Ford (the granddaddy of cars) >>will be introducing an all-new, mega-cool >>way-too-fast-for-Accord-drivers Mustang.  It's supposed to be >>100% streamlined, looking similar to the Mach III concept car >>Ford came out with around January.  I can't wait.  Anyone out >>there hear anything about it recently? > > >If everything I've read is correct, Ford is doing nothing but "re- >skinning" the existing Mustang, with MINOR suspension modifications. >And the pictures I've seen indicate they didn't do a very good job >of it.   > >The "new" mustang, is nothing but a re-cycle of a 20 year old car. > >Jeff > > gee.... is it 1999 already?  Yes, it will still be on the fox program chasis, anything that will be different on the new car as far as mechanical's is unknown. The suspension will most likely be changed, as well as the drive drain. From what has been printed on it, there is no clear idea of what will be done, as some say it will have the modular V8 and others the current small block... just have to wait and see Also is far as styling goes from what I seen is good, a return to tradition. C scoop on the sides and roof line much like a '65 or '66 fastback.
aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes: :  : >: nuet_ke@pts.mot.com (KEITH NUETZMAN X3153 P7625) writes: : >: > HELP!!! : >: > my wife has informed me that she wants a convertible for her next car.   : >jp@vllyoak.resun.com (Jeff Perry) writes: : >: FYI, just last week the PBS show Motor Week gave the results of what they  : >: thought were the best cars for '93.  In the convertible category, the  :                                                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~     (snip, snip)  : Does Porsche have a patent on the "targa" name? : I mean, convertible to me means "top down", which the del Sol certainly : does NOT do.  It has the center that lifts out.  This is what i would : term a targa(unless Porsches was gonna sue me for doing that).  I know : the rear window rolls down, but i still can hardly consider this car : to be a convertible. :  : DREW  Here we go...  No, of course Porsche doesn't have a patent on the "targa" name.  If that were the case, what would Fiat do?  I suppose that technically my del Sol is not a "convertible" in the literal sense, but it certainly classifies as an open- topped car.  In addition, the rear section behind the removable top is what makes my car _infinately_ safer than a convertible.  (flame-retardant on ...)
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos (c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com) wrote: : But waiiiiiit, isn't Nissan officially registering the car as far as : government paperwork goes, Nissan Stanza Altima, to avoid costly and : lengthy paperwork? I read this on the net a while ago, and someone : actually may have said there's a little Stanza logo on the Altima : somewhere.  I just bought an Altima (and like it very much) and yes there is a little Stanza logo ever so discretely placed on the trunk. The Altima is emblazoned in big silver letters, but the itsy-bitsy Stanza is shunted to the far left of the trunk lid. You can only see it if you get up close to the car and know where to look. It is very inconspicuous.  In fact my first clue that this was a Stanza was that the owners manual called the car a Nissan Stanza Altima.  Anybody know *why* Nissan did it this way?
I am thinking about getting an Infiniti G20. In consumer reports it is ranked high in many catagories including highest in reliability index for compact cars. Mitsubushi Galant was second followed by Honda Accord).  A couple of things though: 1) In looking around I have yet to see anyone driving this    car. I see lots of Honda's and Toyota's. 2) There is a special deal where I can get an Infinity G20, fully    loaded, at dealer cost (I have check this out and the numbers match    up). They are doing this because they are releasing and update mid-1993    version (includes dual air-bags) and want to get rid of their old 1993's.  I guess my question is: Is this a good deal?  Also, Can anyone give me any feedback on Infiniti?  Thanks,  Carl Hoffman  P.S.
davidd@lonestar.utsa.edu (David . De Leon) writes:  >In article <113364@bu.edu> selick@csa.bu.edu (Steven Selick) writes: >>I've got an 86 Plymouth Colt that I'd like to do a front-end alignment >>on. Is it possible to do without all of the fancy schmancy gadgets the >>pros have? How? >>-Steve >NO.NO.NO.NO. >If you do so, you are putting the lives of others on the road at consider- >able risk.  Why do you think mechanics are ASE certified??  Anyway you put >it, you need those *fancy scmancy* gadgets...  Awww, right, you want all the home mechanics lined up against a wall and shot eh?  Bull Pucky you chicken! Read the service manual and get your head out of the sand! Certainly there are tools for the job that are cheaper than an alignment rack, that do the job as competently (albeit, not as swiftly), if not more accurate, due to the natural pride an owner/mechanic places on his work. You can do an `acceptable' job of aligning a car using simple tools and some imaginative work that would *never* have the effect of endangering anyones life. The worst that happens is that your tires wear oddly (well, you could have the wheels aiming TOTALLY pigeon toed and not be able to steer the car, raise your hands those that think their vision is so poor that they would screw up this badly!)  I bet you are one of those people that feels that honing a cylinder wall with sand paper will kill millions of people. It aint magic. Go take the certification course, and look at the people that have never learned to add in their whole life that are taking the certification!  BTW, I am disgusted at the Colt (and some of the other Chrysler offerings) because they go out of alignment if you sneaze at them. My '84 Chrysler Laser (Similar to the Daytona, a reskinned Colt) needed a realignment every 3 months ... Bolt a good grade 12' 2x4 to each wheel, using a carefully welded spacer jig. Measure toe in, adjust to manufacturer specs. Camber a bit more difficult to adjust and measure ... I used a micrometer to measure the space between the rim and a funky bent up pipe that could be placed on upper and lower portions of the rim on the inside of wheel (hard to explain). This same tool could be used instead of the 2x4s.  I had made these tools up *right* after the last alignment done professionally so I had a reference that the original poster might not ...