waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In a previous article, jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) says:  >jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes:  >>In article <1r1jr9$m1v@armory.centerline.com> jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes: >>>tcorkum@bnr.ca (Trevor Corkum) writes: >>>I figure that 30mph collisions into brick walls aren't common enough >>>for me to spend that much extra money for protection, but there are >>>lots of low-speed collisions that do worry me.  >>Get into an 30+ mph accident and you may reconsider. I've been in one >>and it is *really* scarey. My life is something I value more >>than a car's looks or handeling. Consider it insurance, it may not >>happen often but when it does, you'll sure be glad you got a safe car.  >>Granted the tests aren't perfect but I'd much rather be in a car that >>did well in the test than a car that did horribly.   >You raise a valid point, but again it's a tradeoff -- how much money >do you want to spend for that kind of protection?  You could buy a >Volvo, Saab, or 'Benz and get really good crash protection (and other >luxuries) but you'll pay significantly more for it.  In my case it's >out of the question because *all* of those cars are beyond my budget.  I've been in two _major_ auto accidents, both were multiple car.  The worst was a head-on three car collision (T intersection and one person ran a stop sign).  In both cases I was stopped and had no place to go (and I saw it coming both times).   >Even in high-speed head-on collisions the most beneficial item you can >have is a good old 3-point seatbelt.  Nowadays, at least in the US, >you get an airbag if you get a 3-point belt so (presumably) you get an >added safety benefit there as well.  That's something I certainly look >for and which can be had in inexpensive cars.  If you _really_ want to add safety to _any_ car, simply add a cage to the car.  They are available and cheap (about $500 in the USA).  Add to that four or five or six point belts and you will walk away from collisions that were otherwise not survivable.  but instead of people spending a little extra money, we get legislation that says the gov't must mandate a minimal level of protection for everyone.   One other significant factor in improving one's own safety is to get some training.  This will improve your safety more than any other single investment will.  Drive/ride defensively (and that does not mean you have to be a doddering old stick in the mud).  People here tend to enthuse about autos more than the average (probably in the top 15th percentile in driving ability), but still we sometimes overlook the obvious.  I've been to two driving schools, and three riding schools for my motorcycle.  A very worthwhile investment (and besides, it was a lot of fun too ;-).   Safety is what you make of it, just because a carmaker doesn't provide you with an adequate level of protection doesn't mean you have to leave it go at that.
In a previous article, parr@acs.ucalgary.ca (Charles Parr) says:   A list of options that would be useful. They can be existing options on a car, or things you'd like to have...  1) Tripmeter, great little gadget. Lets you keep rough track of>    mileage, makes a good second guesser for your gas gauge...  2) Full size spare  3) Built in mountings and power systems for radar detectors.  4) a fitting that allows you to generate household current with the engine running, and plug ins in the trunk, engine compartment and cabin.  Feel free to add on...  5) Power windows
Enough, already. Let's take this discussion to some other newsgroup that's more appropriate. Most of us are tired of it and would like to  get back to old cars, IMHO.
I looked at that Bimmer yesterday. It's an '81, has about 90kmi, according to owner (odometer stopped working at 68Kmi). Drivess well, sounds good, body is OK, he wants $3000. i liked the car, despite it's auto tranny, but my wife will be a primary driver on this one, and she wants auto. The radio does not work untill the car warms up and you honk the horn (!) The A/C seems to have a leak.  The sunroof is sticky, but operational. Odometer does not work, as mentioned before. Idle is a bit bouncy, going from 900rpm to 1200rpm. Wipers are slow. That's teh gripes. The owner says that he changed radiator, alternator,  rotors and calipers, exhaust. The biggest problem, is that the owner is a shifty SOB, telling strange stories. I hate that. I would never buy from a persom like that, except, how often you see a descent 528i for that amount of money. He also said that, although I could bring a mechanicin, he wouldn't let me check the car by taking  it to a garage. Suspicious. And who knows what milage is on it. So, let me know what to check for, given there's practically no rust. I know there was an article on 528i in R&D a few years back, anybody remembers what issue? Mike.S
In article <1993Apr15.192250.18815@cbnewse.cb.att.com> turbo@cbnewse.cb.att.com (gerald.l.lindahl) writes: >From article <1993Apr15.024246.8076@Virginia.EDU>, by ejv2j@Virginia.EDU ("Erik Velapoldi"): >> This happened about a year ago on the Washington DC Beltway. >> Snot nosed drunken kids decided it would be really cool to >> throw huge rocks down on cars from an overpass.  Four or five >> cars were hit.  There were several serious injuries, and sadly  About a year ago, some kids tossed a rock off an overpass on I-94 near Eau Claire, Wisconsin and it killed the driver below.  (I believe he was a schoolteacher from Minnesota.)
I don't want to sell this car, but I need money for college. 1972 Chevelle Super Sport Rebuilt 402, four speed, 12 Bolt positrac Numbers match 110,000 original miles no rust Looks and runs excellent $5995 or best offer. Call Dennis at (503)343-3759 or email dennisk@cs.uoregon.edu
In article <1qqv7k$e5g@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes: >In a previous article, callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) says: >>In article <1qn4ev$3g2@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes: >>>In a previous article, wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie) says: >>> >>>>	That shows how much you know about anything.  The brakes on the >>>>SHO are very different - 9 inch (or 9.5? I forget) discs all around, >>>>vented in front.  The normal Taurus setup is (smaller) discs front,  >>>>drums rear. >>> >>>one i saw had vented rears too...it was on a lot. >>>of course, the sales man was a fool..."titanium wheels"..yeah, right.. >>>then later told me they were "magnesium"..more believable, but still >>>crap, since Al is so m uch cheaper, and just as good.... >>> >>>i tend to agree, tho that this still doesn't take the SHO up to "standard" >>>for running 130 on a regular basis.  The brakes should be bigger, like >>>11" or so...take a look at the  ones on the Corrados.(where they have >>>braking regulations). >> >>Well, let's see...my T-Bird SC has a computer-controlled adjustable >>suspension, 4-wheel ABS disks (11" vented front, 10" (?) rear), 3-point 							^^^^ 						Rears also vented  >>belts, sturdy passenger compartment, aerodynamics good enough for  >>NASCAR without too much change, 210 hp/310 ft-lb supercharged 3.8l V6, >>4-wheel independent suspension (plus limited-slip differential), with  >>a top speed in excess of 130mph, and rides on V-rated tires (I have yet >>to find 225/60-R16s in any other speed rating).  >> >>Is that "up to standard"? If not, why not? > >james, i really hate to do this, but try reading the damn posts!  Then you shouldn't've done it. Try answering the damn question. I am well aware of the fact that there was no mention of the SC in there.  >never was a t'bird mentioned.  The discussion was about SHO's and >'stangs not being up to spec.  I do not know about t'birds.  I >only know that the specs quoted for the SHO by previous poster sounded >a little anemic for me to say that it was up to snuff.  This does not >kn any way  disencourage* me from wishing to own one, nor does it make it >a bad car.  It merely means that i think Ford could have added that extra >bit of safety  and tossed in larger brakes, as the wheels are plenty large >enough for them to fit (if memory serves right, which it may very well not) >and the motor plenty powerful enough to need it.  Well, my point was that the SC and the SHO both have very similar characteristics (front and rear disks (ABS on the SHO?), high output V6, 4-wheel independent suspension, very good aerodynamics, 3-point harness, fat rubber, and 130mph+ top speed). If one of them is  up to standard (and I think the SC is), but the other isn't, then why is that? No flamage, just curiousity.   				James
In article <1r6j9lINNac6@phakt.usc.edu> rmakarem@usc.edu (Total Stranger) writes: >Hi, >I need your help with a problem I have with a 1989 Mitsubishi >Galant GS transmission.  The car has a 5 speed manual tranmission. >Since the car was bought new, while shifting from 2nd to 3rd,  unless  >I do it SLOWLY and carefully, it makes a "popping" or "hitting" sound. >The dealer and Mitsubishi customer service (reached by an 800 #) say  >this is NORMAL for the car.  IS IT? >And about a year ago, at 35Kmiles, the stick shift handle got STUCK >while attempting to put it in reverse: >   1- The shifter would not budge.  The clutch had no effect. >   2- The front tires would not budge, even when the clutch is >      fully depressed. >   3- If the clutch is released the engine would die. >   4- Assuming that some gear was engaged while the shifter was >      stuck, I could not make the car move.  It acted as if >      it were in Neutral(except for dying when clutch is released.) >   5- I finally was able to release the shifter by having  >      someone rock the car back and forth (less than an inch), >      while I depressed the clutch and jiggled the shifter. >   6- The shifter acted normally after that. > >When this happened, I took it to the dealer, they checked the  >clutch, it was o.k. They checked the transmission, it was o.k. > >I had the exact problem a couple of months ago, and again last >week.  The dealer says there is nothing they can do because  >Mitsubishi (the 800 #) says they have never heard of the >problem, and the dealer could not reproduce the problem while >they had the car.   >In all three occurances, the car was parked head first in a garage, >and since the front wheels were stuck, the car could not be towed >to the dealer before releasing the shifter (hence temporarily >solving the problem).  And the dealer, and Mitsubishi, refused to >send someone to check the car while it was stuck.  >I KNOW there is smething wrong with the transmission (shifting  >from 2nd to 3rd), and getting stuck at random, but I can't get  >the dealer to fix it. I need your help with the mechanical problems,  >and with how to handle Mitsubishi.   >All hints and suggestions are greatly appreciated, and sorry to >bore you with the long post. > >Thanks, >Rabih.   Try another dealer.  Sometimes the sophistication of equipment etc is better at one dealer than another.  You may also find another dealer willing to help you with the problem.
> I agree that if traffic is all blocked up and you want to pass, you might > not feel like moving over for someone behind you because you don't want to > give them that one car-length, when they should just wait like you are. > BUT, if you're one of those people that just sit's behind the person, and > doesn't flash them with the high beams, or pull left and flash them, or > ride their bumper, or otherwise tell them that you *do* in fact want to  > go by, and you're not just drafting them, then get the hell out of the  > way of someone who will!  I especially hate it when you flash someone at > the back of a line and they don't 'pass it on'.   > And there's also the issue of some cars being more intimidating to get  > people out of the way than others...  (For instance '85-'86 GTs look  > pretty mean in a rearview mirror at night with the foglights on...  :^) > There have been plenty of times when I've broken up a pack that a  > second-in-line hyundai has been behind for miles...  You just need to > know how to get their attention...   I'd like to see you use this method on a couple of semi drivers. If they see you, they usually acknowledge by sticking their hand out the window with their middle finger extended. Because it is also obvious to them that there is no clear lane ahead.
> cs173sbw@sdcc5.ucsd.edu (cs173sbw) writes: >  >>Does anyone know what happpened to the venerable V16T!?  Has Claudio >>done any enhancement to it?  Are there any pictures of this beast I >>can ftp down somewhere? >>THanks >>p.s.  Better, seen any RC model of this beauty? :)  --AutoWeek had an article about the car within the past six weeks.   It was the issue with the Diablo VT AWD on the cover.  Naturally, I   don't remember the date of the issue offhand, but I can check it if   anyone is interested.    --Aamir Qazi  --
In article <C5tB2F.585@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, mliggett@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (matthew liggett) writes:   |> Manta's are also ve hot and fun cars too.  hahahahahahahahahahaha - thanks for that, I haven't laughed so much in  ages!
In article <1qcaueINNmt8@axon.cs.unc.edu> Andrew Brandt writes: |> I looked into getting a/c installed on my 1987 Honda CRX Si. |> The unit is $875 plus shipping, installation is like 5 1/2 hours on |> top of that.  This is a hunk of change. |>  |> Does anyone know *any* place that does aftermarket a/c installation |> (not with a Honda a/c unit, but some third party unit). |>  |> I cannot seem to find anyone who can put a third party a/c unit in a |> Honda.  I am in No Carolina, so I would prefer some place nearby, but |> any references would be handy. |> |> Thx, Andy (brandt@cs.unc.edu)  Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I do have a comment to make concerning aftermarket A/C units.  I have a Frost-King or Frost-Temp (forget which) aftermarket unit on my Cavalier, and am quite unhappy with it.  The fan is noisy, and doesn't put out much air.  I will never have an aftermarket A/C installed in any of my vehicles again.  I just can't trust the quality and performance after this experience.   - les
In article <C5unFJ.2pA@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> Tom Wetzel <twetzel@ucs.indiana.edu> writes: >In article <1r1tth$b9i@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Andrew A. Spencer, >aas7@po.CWRU.Edu writes: >>>: > my wife has informed me that she wants a convertible for her next car. > >I was about to recommend you consider a targa top over a convertible but,  >DREW made the point very well.  When my wife and I were in our 20s we >did the convertible thing with Triumphs.  Now in our mid-40s, we still >appreciate the open air but prefer targa types.  There is much less wind >noise, objects/papers blowing around, foreign objects getting into the >car and one still has almost all the advantages of the convertible.   >  My last car had T-Tops (BIG T-Tops).  My current car is a convertible. IMHO, if you're after that 'convertible feel', T-Tops, open-top, sunroofs, moonroofs, whatever, just don't cut it.  There's no substitute for a convertible.  If you're not after that sun beating down on you, the wind in your hair and teeth, the flopsum and jetsum getting in the car and the noises associated with the whooshing of the wind, you're not after that 'convertible feel'. So go with something with at least a hole above the driver but don't call it a convertible.  And I do wonder how those targa tops would compare against my roll bar in a rollover situation.  Of course, I'd rather not test it in MY car.  I, too, am in my early 40s.  A convertible--accept no substitute.
This past winter I drove from NYC to Killington,VT 6 or 7 times in my 1990 325i Convertible (talk about poor reputation in the snow!!) with an EXCELLENT set of snow tires. I put 4 Noika NR10s on in Dec. and have been  sure footed in some pretty severe weather conditions ever since. I've plowed through 4 - 5 inch snow covered roads effortlessly, while other cars have been paralyzed (front wheel drive included).  Concentrate more on "where the rubber meets the road" rather than driveability of cars in snowy conditions. Drive carefully, buy good snow tires, and most cars will perform adequately in less than ideal conditions.  An aside:  I can't praise Noika NR10 snows enough. Absolutely the BEST snow tires I have ever driven on. If you live in the snow belt, do yourself a favor and get a set of these next winter.    Tim
As an additional data point, I have run Castrol 20W50 exclusively in the following cars: 75 Rabbit, 78 Scirocco, 76 Rabbit, 78 Bus, 70 Beetle, 76 Bus, 86 Jetta GLI.  I've never had an oil-related problem.  Disclaimer:  It gets mighty hot down here.
What's the best lease quote that anyone has seen on a Toyota Previa DX or DX All-trac for a two-year lease?  If you know where I can get a better rate than $330/month, please contact me with the name and phone of the dealership.
In a previous article, twetzel@ucs.indiana.edu (Tom Wetzel) says:  >In article <1r1tth$b9i@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Andrew A. Spencer, >aas7@po.CWRU.Edu writes: [well, actually, he didn't, but we'll pretend the real author of this query has his name tacked in here....:-)]   >>>: > my wife has informed me that she wants a convertible for her next car. > >I was about to recommend you consider a targa top over a convertible but,  >DREW made the point very well.  When my wife and I were in our 20s we >did the convertible thing with Triumphs.  Now in our mid-40s, we still >appreciate the open air but prefer targa types.  There is much less wind >noise, objects/papers blowing around, foreign objects getting into the >car and one still has almost all the advantages of the convertible.   > >Tom  while it's being mentioned, i personally prefer the moonroof/sunroof/t-top/ targa thing as well.  I simply don't like cloth tops, nor the extra insurance, nor the S**** color matching alot of companies do.  If i chose a convertible, it'd be:  a) Mazda RX7 II.  I just like the way they look.  It'd have to be in black, with color matched black top(they look good!)  b) VW cabriolet.  They do a suberb job of matching colors too.  Also, last year for them!  {***COLLECTOR'S ITEM****}  c) mustang GT droptop...they look ok too.  i know this doesn't help, but i thought i'd do it anyway...:-)  good luck to your wife.(and you :-)
I need to bring on my VW Corrado for body work (I got hit). I was wondering if anyone has heard of any of these South Bay body shops:  Akins Collision Center of Santa Clara - on Reed St Auto West Collision - in San Jose Los Gatos Acura Royal Auto Body - in Sunnyvale  Thanks!
Hi.. Me and My roomate are going to redecorate the "living room" and  we thought it would be a cool idea to have a license plate from every  state in the US and then from whereever else we could find, like canada, Mexixo, even some European ones.    If anyone has any ideas or knows someone that could help us out please let me know....  The more recent, the better, but anything would be nice.    Either that or if you have an old plate hanging around... (hint hint!)  Kev wanderer@camelot.bradley.edu
In <C5t3B2.DG@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes:  >boyle@cactus.org (Craig Boyle) writes:  >>In article <C5sxI4.J9B@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: >>>gibbonsa@fraser.sfu.ca (Darren Gibbons) writes: >>>>I'm looking for information on Opel cars.  Now you ask, which model? >>>>Well, the sad truth is, I'm not entirely sure, but it's a two-seater, >>>>with roll-over headlights, hard top, and really sporty looking.  My >>>>friend has one sitting in his yard in really nice condition, >>>>body-wise, but he transmission has seized up on him, so it hasn't run >>>>for a while.  Does anyone have any info on these cars?  The engine >>>>compartment looks really tight to work on, but it is in fine shape and >>>>I am quite interested in it. >>>>Thanks! >>>>Darren Gibbons >>>>gibbonsa@sfu.ca >>>	 >>>	This would be the manta, would it not???  Sold through Buick dealers in the mid '70's as the price leader????  >>Sounds a lot more like an Opel GT to me. I'd guess that this is on the same >>chassis as the Kadett, rather than the bigger Manta - but I could easily >>be wrong.  I think the later Kadett's were sold here as Buick Opels.  >>Craig  >	I think the Manta is the European name for the "GT."  I'm pretty sure >that the only Kadett's sold here were/are the Pontiac LeMans.  I think the >GT is just an early '70s to mid '70s Manta.   >--  >Chintan Amin <The University of Illinois UrbanaChampaign> mail: llama@uiuc.edu >*******SIG UNDER CONSTRUCTION HARD HAT AREA********  Bzzt. The manta was a two-door sedan in the US. It had a 1900 engine. Was sometimes referred to as an Opel 1900. Manta's are also ve hot and fun cars too.
One thing that everyone is forgetting in this argument over the pricing of the SC1 vs. the Japanese cars is the Saturns "no-dicker sticker".  This makes the Saturn's price low in comparison to the inflated base prices of the Japanese competition on paper, but in reality, one could dicker several hundred dollars off the price of the Japanese cars.  Admittedly, though, here in Canada, at least, the SC2  is in the same price class as the Civic Si, not the SC1.
I have a few questions about the TAX on  a used car purchase. I live in New York State, and I am going to buy a used car. I know that I will have to pay tax when I go to register the car. But I would like to know of tax is payed on the book value of the car, or on the purchase price.  Also, what tax rate is used ?  The owner lives in Albany (8% tax), and I will be living in Saratoga with 7% tax.   Do I pay Albany tax or Saratoga tax ?  (the difference is a whole $50) One more thing, how much does it cost for the usual 2 year registration ?  Did I leave anything out ? What else might I have to know to purchase and register a used car ?  (I've never done this before.)
In article <1qh61m$b6l@armory.centerline.com> jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes: >It's a bit hard to "prove" a point like this, but I can compare the  	I was hoping for something like "The chassis exhibits X  degrees of flex when subjected to forces of more than Y units. Forces of more than Y units begin to manifest at Z miles per hour."  	Not "Well, gee, it wasn't designed to go fast because, uhh, well, gee, it wasn't designed to go fast.  It's not a Porsche, you know".  >come with better seatbelts, more supportive seats, a stronger >passenger compartment cage, better brakes, a stiffer suspension, >different tires, and a body design that takes advantage of aero >effects to keep the car on the ground. What *do* they come with?    	Well, as compared to the normal Taurus, the SHO comes with more supportive seats,better brakes,a stiffer suspension, different tires, and a body design that takes advantage of aero effects to keep the car on the ground (or at least I think that's what all that boy-racer plastic is for).  You're kidding yourself if you think any car on the road has a passenger compartment made to withstand 130 MPH impacts.    >Compare either to the Porsche 911 and you tell me which was designed  	Oh, right.  Only 120,000 dollar cars should be driven fast. They drive goddamn Rabbits at 120 MPH in Europe, pal, and I reckon a Taurus is at least as capable as a Rabbit.  >certainly haven't convinced me.  	Of course not.  "Speeding-is-bad.  Speeding-is-illegal.  I-will-not-speed.  I-love-Big-Brother."  You had your mind made up already.  	It's interesting that lots of the roads out west had *NO* speed limits until 1975.
zowie@daedalus.stanford.edu (Craig "Powderkeg" DeForest) writes:  >If you're planning on making long drives, the 20W50 is probably fine >(esp. in the summer) in your 10W40 car.  But if you're making short drives, >stick to the 10W40.  Several years ago GM was having trouble with the rings sticking on the 5.7 diesel.  They traced a cause to the use of 10W-40 oil.  They would not honor warranty work if 10W-40 was used (if my memory serves me). 5-30, 10-30 or 20 50 was OK'd though.
I'm new to this group and this may have been discussed already, in which case my apologies, but...  I have a '92 Integra with an auto box. According to the manual the car has a lock up torque converter, or something similar.  What is it, what does it do and how does it work?  (Excuse my ignorance).  Does anybody know?  --Parms.