waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <wfnMBJG00WBOE3L2c0@andrew.cmu.edu>, Srinagesh Gavirneni <sg48+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes... >I have a 86 chevy sprint with a/c and 4doors. It's odometer turned 90k >and the sensor light started blinking. I went to the dealer and he said >it was a maintenance light saying I need to change the Oxygen sensor. He >said, It is to be changed every 30k, but since I bought the car when it >had 77k, I don't know if the same thing happened at 30k and 60k.  He >quoted $198 for the part and $50 to install it. The part cost $30 >outside, but the mechanic I went to could not fix it saying the sensor >is placed too deep in the engine parts. He suggested I wait till it >malfunctions before I do anything.  If anyone out there owns a chevy >sprint, I want to know how they got their Oxygen sensors changed. Also, >did you face any problem with fixing it without the dealer's help. Also, >what are the results of the oxygen sensor malfunction.  >  Any help would be greatly apprecisted >   Thanks  >      Nagesh I have owned my Sprint from the beginning and that sensor light comes on every 30K to let you know it's time for a check up.  When that light goes on, I just take it to the delaer tell them "It's that time" and they work on it for 4 hou and you pay $5 for parts and $100 for labor. (Ahh...what they get for labor) I currently have about 95K on my Sprint and of all the times I took it in for service, I never say on the payment sheet anything about the replacement of the Oxygen sensor.  What the heck is an Oxygen sensor?  As far an I know of, I have never had that thing replaced in my car and the car is purring like a kitten. Now, I don't have a/c (Mother Nature does that for me :-) ) and that might have something to do with it, but I still never heard of an Oxygen sensor.  The only MAJOR service job I have had on my car (besides getting the tires replaced if you want to call that a service job) was getting the Rotor, Distributor and Gasket replaced.  And that was all done within the past 2 months.    What I do at 30K is have a good tune-up, let them replace what ever they need to, pay the bill (about $125) and go home and don't worry about the car for another 30K.  Oh, I just remembered something.  If that little sensor light bothers you, in the fuse box right below the turn-signal lever up against the dash, there is a swith on the right side.  Flip that switch and the light will go off.  I do that so that little light won't annoy me.  If you can't find it, look it up in the car manuel.  I hope that I have helped a little and good luck with the _Oxygen sensor_?  				- Thomas -
cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu) writes:  >In article <1993Apr21.191744.3072@ole.cdac.com>, ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate) writes: >>  >>   I am curious about knowing which commericial cars today >> have v engines. >>  >> V4 - I don't know of any. >> V6 - Legend, MR3? MR6? >> V8 - Don't know of any.  >       Yeah, right....  >The BMW 8xx are V10's or V12's, can't remember which... the auto show was >a while ago.  	The 850 is a V12 (5L, from the 750iL)  Is there a 835? or 840?  >> V12 - Jaguar XJS >>  >>  >>  Please add to the list. >>  Thanks, >>  -S >>  ssave@ole.cdac.com >--  >Cris Hannu                       |  Windsurfing the high country. >Cray Research, Inc.              | >@NCAR - Boulder, CO              |         ^           ^ >cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu        |        / \ ___)___ / \
Hello,   I am moving to Houston to go to Rice University for graduate school. I will be living on the corner of S. Mian and University Blvd.  I was wondering what kind of liability rates to expect.  Here is the relevent info.       Sex: Male       Age: 23       Status: Single       Commute: None, walking.       Car: 1982 Ford Crown Victoria, 4 door  If anyone can check the above info, or is in a similar situation please E-MAIL me the rates they find out or pay.  Thanks for your help in advance.
I am curious about knowing which commericial cars today have v engines.  V4 - I don't know of any. V6 - Legend, MR3? MR6? V8 - Don't know of any. V12 - Jaguar XJS    Please add to the list.
>Don't the numbers in the car names above refair to the engine size in  >liters? i.e. ls400 = 4.0litre engine, sc300 = 3.0 liter "Sport Coupe"..  >and Q45 = 4.5liter.. (similar, kinda, to BMW and MB nameing deal).   Note: BMW doesnt always follow this convention.
I have been looking at buying a 1989 Jeep Laredo and was wondering if anyone had any bad or good experiences with this model. Is it all that much different than the other YJs?    It looks, feels and sounds like a nice vehicle even thought the price is rather steep for an '89 (12K Canadian).
Mercedes-Benz announced yesterday its plans to begin building sport-utility vehicles in the US by 1997.  They are targeted at the Jeep Grand Cherokee et al. and will reportedly sell for less than $30,000.  Did anyone see a picture?   Is it the G-wagon (Gelaendewagen) currently available in Europe (and in the US by grey-market) or is it an entirely new vehicle?  Any details would be appreciated.
In article <1993Mar31.181813.24122@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes: >In article <1pcgv5$oj9@armory.centerline.com> jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes: >>jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes: >>>Because I want to get the lowest price possible, it's called capitalism. >> >>I have news for you -- capitalism is the practice of maximizing >>profits. > >Same difference, if you lower your costs you increase your profits. > >>Personally I'm not at all bothered by the Saturn pricing scheme.  If I >>don't want to pay as much as they're selling it for, I can go buy a >>different car from a different dealer and they get nothing.  That's >>competition for you.  If the dealer can be competitive charging what >>they do and making that kind of profit, that's capitalism at it's best >>and more power to 'em. >> > >I'd rather have the consumer dictate what things will cost not the >dealers.  Sorry, but *neither* 'dictates' the cost. It's a negotiation. Whether it's up front at a honda dealership in an all out  dickering war, or more removed on a larger economic scale (ie, if saturn can't sell at it's price, the price drops, or the company stops building them), it remains a negotiated value controlled by market forces. To think that the consumer  controls price is ludicrous. If the consumer controled price, then cars would be *free*...And no one would build  cars.  Regards, Charles
kojo@valet.phx.mcd.mot.com (Kojo Yeboah) writes:  KY>To all those who have PASSATs, do you recommend using Super Unleaded or just KY>regular Unleaded Gasoline. I have been using Regular Unleaded. A friend of mine has KY>a Jetta and has always used Super Unleaded and thinks I should be using the same; KY>however, I believe the advantages of Super Unleaded for CARs $30000 and under KY>has been overplayed by guess who: the companies who sell them, because that is KY>where they make the most PROFIT. A Ralph Nader report and other consumer advocates KY>have in the past spoken against those oil companies.  Your Passat VR6 is designed to run on premium gasoline, however the engine electronics will retard the timing so that no harm wil be done to the engine with lower octane fuel.  You will likely, however, get somewhat more power and fuel mileage (especially in hot weather) out of this particular engine if you do run it on premium.   Tom Neumann ---  þ DeLuxeý 1.25 #350 þ I sell Volkswagens.
>Les Bartel's comments: >>>>Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I do have a comment to >>make concerning aftermarket A/C units.  I have a Frost-King or Frost-Temp >>(forget which) aftermarket unit on my Cavalier, and am quite unhappy with >>it.  The fan is noisy, and doesn't put out much air.  I will never have >>an aftermarket A/C installed in any of my vehicles again.  I just can't >>trust the quality and performance after this experience. >> - les > >Let me add my .02 in. I had a A/C installed by the Ford garage and it did not >work as well as the A/C that was installed by the factory in pickups  >identical to mine. I have talked to other people that have had the same >result. Don't know if this is just a probable with Ford or what?? > >	Ernie Smith
In a previous article, parr@acs.ucalgary.ca (Charles Parr) says:  >The idea here is to list pointless options. You know, stuff you >(can) get on a car that has no earthly use?  1) a fitting that allows you to generate household current with the engine running, and plug ins in the trunk, engine compartment and cabin.  Feel free to add on...  Regards, Charles x --  Within the span of the last few weeks I have heard elements of separate threads which, in that they have been conjoined in time, struck together to form a new chord within my hollow and echoing gourd. --Unknown net.person
In article <C5HqJ0.57@unix.amherst.edu>, bhtulin@unix.amherst.edu (Barak H. Tulin) gives forth: >I just started reading this thread today, so forgive me if it has already been >mentioned.  But...what was the deal with Renault's putting the horn on the >left-hand turn-signal stalk?  It was a button on the end, where the washer >button would be on the wiper/washer stalk.  Could the Frenchies not figure >out the wiring through the steering wheel, or what?  Had an '83 Alliance for a long time.  It was a comfortable but sluggish car.  I got very used to the horn on the stalk, after a couple months worth of getting used to it.  After I bought my next car, a Chevy, it took me for-EVER to get used to the horn on the steering wheel again!  jim grey jwg@acd4.acd.com
I was lloking at the Geo Prizm Lsi today (very nice).  Anyway, I had a questions that the salesperson couldn't answer.  How does the theft deterrent on the Prizm's audio systems work?  Can't find the answer in any of Geo's lterature.  Thanks in advance.
In article <1993Apr15.155325.6329@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>, nancy@hayduke (Nancy  Feagans) writes: >Ashtrays and cigarette lighters.  These should be an *option*. > >-- > >Nancy J. Feagans     (818) 306-6423 >Jet Propulsion Lab   nancy@jpl-devvax.Jpl.Nasa.Gov >"Not a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is serious." >
In article <21APR199314371355@stdvax> oaddab@stdvax (DIRK BROER) writes:  >Still its amazing in Germany you can have cars traveling 155 mph and 65 mph  >on the same 3 to 4 lane road.  Around Washington DC they can't keep traffic  >flowing at 55.  Actually, that'd be 155 mph and 60 mph (the legal speed limit for trucks)  in *two* lanes, each direction. It's a hell of a rush when those trucks fly  by. (or was that me flying by them? Who cares, the rush is really something  else, and so is the draft)
From: bsw@utrc.utc.com (Bruce S. Winters) Subject: Re: Warped brake discs on '91 Taurus L     >In the past few years I have owned 3 Mustang GTs and now own a 91 T-Bird    >SC.  They all have had this problem. There was a recall on the T-bird for    >the brake problem. The Ford dealer replaced the rotors and pads but the    >rotors warp after about 10K miles. Between this problem and the fit and    >finish problems on the T-Bird I'll never buy a Ford again.         I just had my rotors on my '92 Taurus GL changed less than 500 miles    ago and...you guessed it, I'm noticing slight warpage in the left rotor.    :-(  I had a mechanic friend of mine look at it and he said that there is a    high spot on the rotor that is causing the problem.  This is a brand new    rotor bought from a Ford Dealership.  Can't they even produce a brand new    rotor that is not warped?  I'm currently negotiating with them to swap it    out for a new rotor.         This is my first American build car and I'm not overly impressed.     Tony --
In article <1r5acf$nh1@agate.berkeley.edu> robohen@ocf.berkeley.edu (Henry Robertson) writes: >Keep in mind that owning any car in Korea is a luxury that only the ruling >class can afford.  Every government agency worth its salt finds some reason >to levy a tax on car ownership; last I heard, there were seven different >fees to pay to own a car.    We used to have a tax in Greece named after the Queen's Mother. The Queen left (Monarchy was abolished) but the tax stuck...  Similar single purpose taxes have stuck (i.e. to help the victims of  the earthquake of 19XX, build the Metro)  ObMoralConclusion: next time someone proposes a car tax or gasoline tax promising it's temporary, it AIN'T.   Spiros
In article <1993Apr26.160911.28922@westminster.ac.uk>, jkjec@westminster.ac.uk (Shazad Barlas) writes: >In article <1993Apr25.180954.20425@ultb.isc.rit.edu> adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes: >>The radio does not work untill the car warms up and you honk the horn (!) > >Hahaa!!!!!! hahahah!! hahahahahahaaaaa! I cant stop - its killing me!!  >hahah!!!  >
In article <C5K5Co.F09@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> thwang@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Tommy Hwang) writes: >	Sorry for the mis-spelling, but I forgot how to spell it after  >my series of exams and NO-on hand reference here. > >	Is it still possible to get those cute WWII VW Jeep-wanna-be's? >A replica would be great I think.      greetings:   you may be in luck.  i seem to recall seeing a blurb in one of the kit car magazines about a company in norway who pulled a mould (sp?) off a real kubel, and has adapted it to the beetle floorpan.  as for the suspension, all i can remember about the vw thing i used to own is that it had about 3" more suspension travel than a stock beetle, but i'd heard that there were after- market parts for off-road use that were as good or better.  note that the major difference (looks wise) between a kubel & a thing are the hood and the fenders.  the kubel had an external spare mounted *on* the hood, and the hood sloped down (for visibility?) sharply, and had rounded fenders.  the thing has a lightly sloped  hood with the spare mounted inside (unless moved to make for more luggage space...) and has half-hexagon shaped fenders (imagine a nut large enough to put a tire *in*, and cut off the bottom half of it...).   unfortunately, i don't have that info anymore.  try stopping at a local bookstore and copying down the phone numbers for the two big mag's and calling them.  they might be able to get the number for you (don't forget to calculate the time difference to norway before calling...).  later, kc
The question is not whether your radio will be stolen.  The question is when your radio will be stolen.
We're considering getting a Ford Explorer XLT with 4WD and we have the following questions (All we would do is go skiing -- no off-roading):  1. With 4WD, do we need the "performance axle" - (limited slip axle). Its purpose is to allow the tires to act independently when the tires are on different terrain.   2. Do we need the all-terrain tires (P235/75X15) or will the all-season (P225/70X15) be good enough for us at Lake Tahoe?   Thanks,   Tom  --    ===========================================================================          Tom Shou			Silicon Graphics 	shou@asd.sgi.com		2011 N. Shoreline Blvd.  	415-390-5362			MS 8U-815  	415-962-0494 (fax)		Mountain View, CA 94043
In article <1r1d62$d6s@agate.berkeley.edu>, bh@anarres.CS.Berkeley.EDU (Brian Harvey) writes: > rfelix@netcom.com (Robbie Felix) writes: > >How about the thousands of kind teenagers who volunteer at local > >agencies to help children, seniors, the homeless? >  > Hear, hear!  Thanks, Robbie. >  > You also don't read that much about violence *against* teenagers, such as > George Bush burying alive tens of thousands of unarmed Iraqi 17-year-olds, > who were trying to surrender, with bulldozers. >  >  > On the other hand, I think it *is* true, without singling out teenagers > for blame, that violence is more socially acceptable than it used to be. > Those of us who'd like to discourage violence have plenty of work to do > with people of all ages.
I would gladly spend twice the money for insurance, rather than using Geico.  Not only do they supply radar guns to the police they also want to make radar detectors illegal.  They also ask if you have a detector (probably to put you in a high risk group or just refuse to insure you).  I know a few people who were droped by geico due to an accident that was not their fault.
In article <1993Apr21.100149.1501@rtsg.mot.com>, kissane@black (John G. Kissane) writes: >As a matter of interest does anyone know why autos are so popular in the US while  >here in Europe they are rare??? Just wondering.....  Primarily milage.  Gas is much more expensive, so people are very concerned about it taking a few more liters per kilometer.  This, along with narrow old cities, also results in smaller cars with smaller engines.  These engines usually don't have the torque to mesh well with an automatic.  So, having engines that don't work well with autos, and a great concern for milage, the usual Euro-car has a manual.  (Note that not many big Benzes come with manuals.  If you've got the money for the car, you've got the money for the gas, and the engine to drive through the slushbox.)  As automatics become more efficient, the "bigotry" is probably reduced.  Still, everyone knows how to drive a manual, and cars are cheaper with one, and it saves a little expensive fuel.  So there aren't compelling reasons to go automatic.  -dB
tcorkum@bnr.ca (Trevor Corkum) writes: >Is it only me, or is >safety not one of the most important factors when buying a car?  It depends on your priorities.  A lot of people put higher priorities on gas mileage and cost than on safety, buying "unsafe" econoboxes instead of Volvos.  I personally take a middle ground -- the only thing I really look for is a three-point seatbelt and 5+mph bumpers. I figure that 30mph collisions into brick walls aren't common enough for me to spend that much extra money for protection, but there are lots of low-speed collisions that do worry me.
In article <1993Apr23.010311.23110@ra.oc.com>, lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes: |>  |> Shifting without the clutch on a transmission with syncros can and will cause |> transmission damage, the only question being how long it  takesto grenade |> something (for the trans in my 87  Pulsar SE, it was  about 3-5k miles, but |> it had a weak  tranny in the first place).  Please explain the why of this. I have over 200k miles usage of clutchless shift and no problems.
In article <1993Apr6.194738.20021@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes:  [blah blah blah]  >Ok if you are so right, name a few good examples that were brought up.   let's create a new group:  rec.autos.CR-is-right-no-its-not-yes-it-is-oh-yeah- my-father-can-lick-your-father-.......   :-)
>Does anybody have any information on the second generation Broncos? (I'm >not talking about Bronco II's, I'm referring to the Broncos that began >production in 1978 based on the F-150 chassis I believe)  	Ahh Broncos.  Well personally, I have a '78.  The blue book is just a hair over 3 grand.  I bought it for 2500 and then bought new tires 650 front end rebuild 350, carb rebuild 130.  Then i did the unthinkable and blew the engine (not bronco specific, unmaintained engine with 168,000) 2400 more bucks there, now it is in nice condition, well after new seats out of a t-bird, radio, 2 amps, speakers, alarm, well the radio and amps were  free and i bought the speakers used for 40 bucks, and the other speakers i took out of my old jeep (Sell a Jeep for a bronco you might ask, but it was a Wagoneer).  Its a lovely specimen, solid front and rear axels, ford 9" and a dana 44 up front.  Watch the rear axel wrap, i  busted off my u-bolts ONCE, i added traction shocks after that and  haven't had a problem since.  Also the bottom of the doors tend to  rot, bottom of the tailgates likes to rust right up to the new ones that might be in your budget.  The post 80 broncos have that sickly TTB front end and little stamped and folded steel radius arms were as the 78-79 have nice big cast iron longer radius arms(ie more prspective wheel travel).  The only rust i have is on my doors and a few dings in the sheet metal.  I don't know when the removeable tops were discontinued but they are fun.  I just ordered a full convertable top for 400$ for mine(credit card).  Don't ever break the window if you have the double laminated bronzed privacy glass in your cap it is over 400 bucks to replace.  My bronco also does pretty good offroad, i haven't bottomed out my suspension, YET, and have crossed over 3 foot deep of water with no problems, handles rocks like a charm too. One problem is it is WIDE and you sometimes can't follow a CJ or a Toyota, between two rocks or trees, and your grandmother will have a hard time getting up into it.
In my opinion, the limited tort option is the best thing Casey has ever done. Basically, limited tort means that you give up your right to sue for pain and suffering, unless one of the following conditions is met: 1. Your medical bills resulting from the accident exceed $X (where X is some number like 50,000 -- I'm not sure of the exact number)  2. The accident was caused by a drunk driver (I mean, the OTHER driver was drunk)  3. You get a good lawyer and have a good case (basically, you can appeal to regain your right to sue, but there's almost no chance of this ever happening).  You are only giving up your right to sue for pain and suffering; you can still sue for medical costs, actual damages, etc. By agreeing to limited tort, you are essentially giving up your right to be an asshole who treats every accident as an entry into the litigation lottery. In exchange, you get a substantial reduction in your rates. I save $150/year.
Quoting Jeffrey J. Nucciarone's (nucci@microwave.gsfc.nasa.gov) article  <C4G8Hv.Cs4@skates.gsfc.nasa.gov> of 04-06-93, in pertinent part:   JJ>   I am considering buying a used '90 Taurus SHO.  The car in   JJ> question has 37k miles. I took it for a test drive the other day  JJ> and a few questions came up.  JJ>   JJ> . . .  JJ>   Second, is there anything I should specifically look for in an   JJ> SHO of this vintage? Anything I should specifically ask abt?    JJ> (Brakes, cluthch, etc.)  I noticed on the drive the clutch engagemen  JJ> point seemed a little high; since all my other cars are auto-tragics  JJ> I'm not sure abt this point. I had my foot firmly planted on the  JJ> brake when I started it up. There was a bit of a pop in the pedal  JJ> soon after the engine started. This also occured on a few T-bird SC'  JJ> I test drove. Was this the ABS self test?   Brake rotors and the clutch are the main things.  There has been a clutch  replacement program; you might check to see if the car is still eligible,  as it is a change well worth making.  You can also swap the cruddy cable  shifter for the newer rod shifter, also a change worth making, but that'll  cost you some $$.  My brakes usually do one wibble-wobble on startup, so that is probably  normal.  Didn't know they had a self-test, that's interesting.  What kind of tires does the car have on it?
I have a 1982 Regal and I am interested in buying a fiberglass hood, trunk, and bumpers for it.  Does anybody know of a company who makes fiberglass parts for Regals ??   		Thanks in advance,
In article <1993Apr15.160922.8797@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes: > >In article <1993Apr15.135514.29579@cbnewsj.cb.att.com> rdb1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com >(ronald.j.deblock..jr) writes: > >>You can avoid these problems entirely by installing an oil drain valve in >>place of the bolt.  I have one on both of my cars.  There have been no >>leaks in 210,000 miles (combined miles on both cars). > >Yes, but then someone would have no problem draining your oil in a parking lot. > >all they have to do is reach underneath, turn a valve, and forget the trip  >home.  Most cars have drain petcocks in the radiators, and I've never  seen nor heard of a vandal opening one.  I imagine that there would be an even lower risk with an oil plug because you have  to crawl furthur under the car to open it.    Car vandals are usually real traditional in their methods, and do things that don't get them dirty, like keying your car, dumping sand, sugar or mothballs in the gas tank, TPing it, etc.