waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <LINNIG.93Apr7154239@m2000.dseg.ti.com>, linnig@m2000.dseg.ti.com (Mike Linnig) writes: > Folks, >  > Here in the Dallas area I have noticed that it is quite common to see an odd > "sensor" on top of traffic lights.  These have been here for at least six > years.  I've often wondered what they are. > . . .  > Mike Linnig, Texas Instruments Inc. | 97.43% of all statistics are made | > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Here in Erie, PA there is a system in the inner city called Rado-Lite (a  trade name) which allows police and ambulance vehicles to gain right of  way by controlling traffic lights through RADIO signals.  The receivers  look much like what you describe, but they include a UHF whip antenna (less than a foot tall) and a light which flashes on and off to let traffic know that  an emergency vehicle has taken control and is approaching.  Local folklore  says this system was invented here; I don't know if this company has any  other installations.  It has been in operation for at least 30 years, going  only by my memory.
Mark J. Musone (musone@acsu.buffalo.edu) wrote: : HI, I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me on twwo related : subjects. I am currently learning about AM/FM receivers and recieving : circuits.  :  : P.S. any REALLY GOOD BOOKS on AM/FM theory ALONG WITH DETAILED : ELECTRICAL DIAGRAMS would help a lot. : I have seen a lot of theory books with no circuits and a lot of : circuit books with no theory, but one without the other does not help.  A pretty serious book that still seems readable is  Communication Receivers, Principes and Design by Rohde and Bucher.
In article <rcstage1.128.735548462@urc.tue.nl> rcstage1@urc.tue.nl (Guido Klemans) writes: >In article <1993Apr22.163605.24784@csus.edu> kschang@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Kuo-Sheng (Kasey) Chang) writes:  >[byteocide]  >>What I believe the companies should do is implement the above plus >>a special patch once the user registers that loudly exclaims upon bootup >>"REGISTERED TO XXXXX -- address, city, state zip" and disables the above. >>Two benefits: 1) encourages registration, 2) cuts down on pirating and >>makes it more traceable, because if the patch's registration message is >>encrypted, it will be quite hard to change, and therefore provides a >>stable trail of who allowed their copy out of their hands, and thus >>violated their license agreement. >> >You take two copies with a different registration id, compare them byte for  >byte and you know where they are located. Usually you will be able to  >find out what is what after that.   Probably, but the point is THE COMPANY make the registration patch, NOT YOU.  Sure, you can probably find another registerred user and compare notes, but WHY?  It's not hindering you in any way unless you are just hacking. [Problem about people who cut TOO MUCH from quoting...]  >And what keeps me form registering as John Doe from the company Public  >Domain, Yellow Brick Road 1, Tinseltown or something???  Nothing, but if you read my WHOLE suggestion, I'm saying that you register via MAIL by mailing in your registration card, THEN the company send you the patch which includes the info you put on the registration card.
I am interested in finding a supplier for an array of leds on material which is transparent when nothing is lit.  I'm not quite sure what LCD screens are like away from the laptop but I would  guess they are not too clear.  An ideal item would be an LED array for which each LED is about 1/2" square.   (Yes very course)  This is for distance viewing, but on a window.  Any pointers of suggestions would be much appreciated.  -Mark Battisti mbattist@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
In article <DRAND.93Apr20150701@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes: >In article <randall.735251839@woof> randall@informix.com (Randall Rhea) writes: > >   Hams can legally run up to 1500 watts.  It is very unlikely, however, >   that a ham would be running that kind of power from a car.  Ham rigs > >Not possible either.  You'd need about a 300 amp alternator for >just the amplifier.  I can just see it.  You need to slow >down on a downgrade,  so you hit the push to talk button.  Now, that indeed is possible.  A good friend of mine is running about 1 KW PeP from his car.  Yes, he does have a second alternator.  Yes, he calls the rig an "electronic brake" since the engine noticeably slows when the key is down.  My car, unfortunately, has so much computer junk under the hood that it's astonishingly sensitive to RFI.  If I key a 2W HT over the engine with the hood open, the car loses timing due to the RF leaking into the  distributor pickup.  Very poor design.  I will, however, point out that ham radio operators are usually quite willing to help when interference is detected.  Remember that any interference is wasted power; if I put out 1W in the TV band, that's 1W that I am not putting out in the band I am trying to transmit on, and 1W can often be the difference between a nice card hanging on the wall, and nothing.  CBers, however, are usually not as helpful.  Most illegal CBers, however, will stop operation when you inform them of a problem.  The rest of them will stop operation when you inform the local FCC office of the problem (in writing, and giving details and addresses).  >Last, you can usually tell ham radio vs. CB.  Ham operators are >required to declare their call (sign) every so many minutes (no more >than 10).  So if you hear "This is WA1QT" or some other call starting >with A, W or K and no more than 6 total characters, you heard a ham. >CB'ers probably won't sign (I don't know that they're even required >to) and fire/police have other private ids.
-s87271077-s.walker-man-50- (swalker@uts.EDU.AU) wrote: :  :  : I really don't know where to post this question so I figured that : this board would be most appropriate. : I was wondering about those massive concrete cylinders that : are ever present at nuclear poer sites. They look like cylinders : that have been pinched in the middle. Does anybody know what the : actual purpose of those things are?. I hear that they're called : 'Cooling Towers' but what the heck do they cool? : I hope someone can help  :----------------------- During the nuclear fission reaction the uranium fuel can get hot enough to melt. When this happens the liquid uranium is pumped to the cooling tower where it is sprayed into the air. Contact with the cool outside air will condense the mist and it will fall back to the cooling tower floor. There it is collected by a cleaning crew using shop vacs and is then reformed into pellets for reactor use the next day.  Cooling towers are a lot taller than they really need to be. Power companies are forced to make them that tall by some enviromental law that requires the raw uranium emisions to be held to under 1%. This law is now under attack by lawyers arguing that the 1% should be measured at the edge of the property rather than the edge of the cooling tower. Eliminating this law will save power companies thousands of dollars in concrete costs for new nukes.
In article <1pkveuINNduk@gap.caltech.edu>, Joseph Chiu writes:  > The Ohmite company was the first to characterize resistances by numbers, thus > our use of the Ohms...   Yeah, right.  And the company was started by George Simon Ohmite.
Others said: # 74S	Later modification of 74 for even higher speed, at some cost in # 	power consumption.  Effectively obsolete; use 74F. #  # 74LS	Combination of 74L and 74S, for speed comparable to 74 with lower # 	power consumption.  Best all-round TTL now, widest variety of # 	devices. #  # 74F	Fast as blazes, power not too bad.  The clear choice for high # 	speed in TTL.  Availability and prices generally good.  I hate to disagree w/ a fellow as smart as Henry, but...  A few years back, I worked on a project using lots of high-speed stuff.  (My part was slow & parallel, whew.) The mild-mannered designer working on the fast (serial) stuff cussed & swore at 74F all the time. It was the Harry Reams of TTL. One ultra-tiny power line glitch, one hickup, one eyeblink across the board, and bang - the F had toggled/counted/whatevered.  At times he swore it would count even without any 5 volt supply ;-} You can guess what the "F" stood for....  They would do anything to push S or work around it to avoid using F. I don't think I'd consider using F to replace S unless the consequences were *fully* understood.......
> >Please explain how cement is able to maintain a lower average temperature > >than dirt.  Sheesh....... >  I hope David isn't going to be too upset with me for sticking my nose in here again, but here goes......:-)  It isn't the average temperature that is the key factor here, but rather which is better at transferring the heat out of the (presumably warmer than ground temperature) battery.  Call it a question of thermal conductivity, or of insulating ability, or "thermal mass" - whatever you like.  Question - why does a concrete floor feel cooler than the  surrounding dirt when you place your hand on it?
In article <9649@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM>, alany@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Alan Yelvington) writes: |> The battery goes dead primarily becaust the floor is cold.  The temperature |> combined with self-discharge promotes sulfation which ruins the plates of  |> the battery.  I strongly suspect that the only reason the battery doesn't |> go dead as quickly on a dirt surface is because cement tends to be quite |> cooler.
currently I am using the 8051 microcontroller with external eprom..  In order to drive the dc motor (with direction) I use the Pulse width modultion   thru software control(Assembly language programming). However I am afraid that  they will be overheads and thus alter the pulse timing. My question is   is the software pwm control reliable?. I understand that port 0 is a latch  and so I vary the duty cycle by setting it high first and at the desire
It's made by Rohm. (as is all BAxxx parts). Call 714-855-2131 and ask if  you can get a sample (it's only like a $2 part).
In article <C5r6Lz.n25@panix.com> jhawk@panix.com (John Hawkinson) writes: >My main question is the bulb: where can I get UV bulbs? Do they >need a lot of power? etc., etc.  I've seen them in surplus stores.  All they are are fluorescent bulbs  without the phosphor, and a UV transparent bulb (special glass).  I've also seen incandescent versions that you screw into an ordinary 120VAC socket, probably not what you want.  > >I'm not too concerned with whether it's long-wave or short-wave >(but hey, if anyone has a cheap source of bulbs, I'll take both). > >One other thing: a friend of mine mentioned something about near-UV >light being cheaper to get at than actual UV light. Does anyone >know what he was referring to?  As far as I know, near UV (as opposed to far-UV) is longwave UV (near the visible spectrum).  Longwave UV is safer as far as accidental (I hope) exposure to the eyes.  As far as fluorescent minerals go (the reason a friend has a UV lamp), some only respond to only one of short or long UV.  Hope this helps.  Dave.    > >Thanks much. > > >-- >John Hawkinson >jhawk@panix.com  ----------------------------------------------------------------------  | Who I am:  David Malecki                                             | | Who you think I am:  dramalecki@electrical.watstar.uwaterloo.ca      | |                                                                      |
I understand that the new GPS boxes now have an option known as "differential ready".  Apparently land-based beacons tranmit GPS correction information to your GPS  receiver (with differential option installed).  How does this system work?  What frequency is used for the land-based beacons?  Thanks in advance,
In article <wb9omc.735429954@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu>, wb9omc@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Duane P Mantick) writes: > ab616@Freenet.carleton.ca (Marc Dion) writes: >  >  >>For a project of my own, I would like to build a Infra-Red Remote control >>receiver (for regular VCRs and TVs remotes).  Does anybody have any info >>or tips on how to build such receiver ? >>In particular, >>a) which photo detector should I use (which wavelength do remotes use) ? >>b) which ICs or circuit should I use ? >>c) any suggestions for circuit layout >  > 	Another suggestion - find a brand of TV that uses an IR remote, > and go look at the SAMS photofact for it.  You can often find some very > detailed schematics and parts list for not only the receiver but the > transmitter as well, including carrier freq. specs. and tone decoding > specs. if the system uses that. >  Probably won't help.  I'd be willing to bet that _every_ manufacturer used those little self-contained modules.  I think Sharp made them. Radio Shack used to sell them for a few bucks (maybe they still do.)  The module had 3 leads:  power, ground and demodulated output.  It contained the photo-detector, amplifier, integrator and demodulator all in a tiny metal can.  If you want to buy one, try Radio Shack, or else a TV repair shop can probably order one.  BTW - the carrier frequency is 40 KHz, and each different TV/VCR/cable box/stereo manufacturer uses a unique pulse scheme to perform each different function on their equipment.
In article <120466@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason   Haines) writes: >  > 	I was wondering if people had any good uses for old > 256k SIMMs.  I have a bunch of them for the Apple Mac > and I know lots of other people do to.  I have tried to > sell them but have gotten NO interest. >  > 	So, if you have an inovative use (or want to buy > some SIMMs  8-) ) Sure I'll give you 10 bucks for all of them
Yes, I know it's nowhere near Christmas time, but I'm gonna loose Net access in a few days (maybe a week or 2 if I'm lucky), and wanted to post this for interested people to save 'till Xmas.   :-( Note: Bell Labs is a good place IF you have a PhD and a good boss, I have neither. --------------------------------------------------------------------------  Subject: Xmas light set with 2 levels of brightness  Another version of a variable brightness Xmas light set: This set starts with a 2 blinker 35 bulb string.    DIAGRAM:  orginal 2 way set  120v---+--b-*-*-*-*-*-*-*--!        !---b-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-!                            ! 120rtn_____________________!  modified set for 2 level brightness:                  string 1 120v---------*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*--!   \_10K_______*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-!     5w    !      string 2     !           b   ________________! 120v rtn__!___!               ^ Note: no mods to wiring to the right of this point.  Only one blinker is used.  Note that the blinker would not have as much current thru it as the string 1 bulbs, because of the second string of bulbs in parallel with it.  That's why the use of the 10K 5W resistor here to add extra current thru the blinker to make up for the current shunted thru the second string while the blinker is glowing and the second string is not glowing.  When the blinker goes open, this resistor has only a slight effect on the brightness of the strings, s1 slightly dimmer, s2 slightly brighter.   Or use a 3W 120v bulb in place of the 10K resistor if you can get one.  Caution, do not replace with a standard C9 bulb, as these draw too much current and burn out the blinker.  C9 = approx 7W.  What you'll see when it's working:  powerup, string 1 will light  at full brightness, and b will be lit, bypassing most of the current  from the second string, making them not light.  b will open, placing  both strings in series, making the string that was out to glow at a  low brightness, and the other string that was on before to glow  at reduced brightness.
Yes,  Take Interstate I-70 to the route 48 exit.  Go south on 48 about 2-1/2 miles.  Trun right on Shiloh Springs Road.  The hamvention is at the Harrah arena, which is about 1 mile west and on the north side of the Road.  Parking at the arena is limited.  Lodging is probably entirely booked-up within a 40 mile radius.  Good luck.                  |                |                 48               I75                 |                | ----------I70----------....---------                 |                |                 |                |           X     |                | (mall)  --------|                |    S. Springs   |  It is possible to park at the mall to the west.  There are shuttle busses running between the arena and the mall.  If possible, get a Montgomery County, OH map from your local AAA office.  It should be free if you are an AAA member.  If you don't already have definite plans, now is not a particularly good time to start to think about going to the hamvention.
In article <C5J845.3B8@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> dgj2y@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (David Glen Jacobowitz) writes: > >	I have a new scope and I thought I'd save a few bucks by >buying one with a function generator built in.  Hmm... now where was that ad for the combination radio/hand cranked generator/flashlight/siren I saw? :-)  [function generator has a 50mV offset, and the amplitude's too high]  >	Is there any way I could make myself a little box that could >solve this little problem. The box would tkae the function generator >input, lower the voltage and give an output impedance that is some >low, unchanging number. I would want to lower the voltage by a factor >of one hundred or so. I could just build a little buffer amp, but I'd >like to have this box not be active.  Sure, you've already got the right idea.  Ignoring the 50 ohm internal resistance of the generator for a second, just run it into, say, a voltage divider made of 990 ohms in series with 10 ohms.  This new circuit is the Thevenin equivalent of one that puts out 1/100 of the original voltage, and has an output impedence of negligibly less than 10 ohms.  You may want to monkey with the values a little depending on whether you care more about the _exact_ dividing ratio or the availability of parts.  Hows that sound?  					---Joel Kolstad
(posted for a friend) hello there,         I would like to know if any one had any experience with having on-board decoupling capacitors (inside a cmos chip) for the power lines. Say I have a lot of space left im my pad limited design. any data on the effect of oxide breakdown? any info or pointers are appreciated.
In article <1r73vqINNftu@zephyr.grace.cri.nz>, srgxnbs@grace.cri.nz writes: >>>What I want the CAD program to do is to draw diagrams by >>>dragging elements onto the screen, and in this the elements >>>needed are as diverse as vacuum tubes to ICs (case with pins). > .. > try DraftChoice, its not windows but its shareware and object > oriented. Use it with PrintGL for high quality output. >  > Bruce >  >  Look for Spice or PSpice
Has anyone successfully programmed this beast using the bootloader pgm with the circuit described in `the little green handbook, pg 9-1`?  Dan. --  ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Adrian Blockley                    ! I may say something profound    Environmental science              ! here one day.                   Murdoch University                 !                           Western Australia, 6153            !                                blockley@essun1.murdoch.edu.au     !                                 phone 09-360 2737                  !
In article <1993Apr27.202305.4363@mav.com> toddi@mav.com (Todd Inch) writes: > >In England they do (did?) require permits to OPERATE A TV!!! >Supposedly, the "TV police" drove around with RF detectors looking for >the IF or whatever produced by a receiver that wasn't registered.  I'm >guessing the purpose was just something else they could get away with >taxing.  I don't know if the "TV police were/are just urban legend or >an actuality.  They are real, and we still pay licence fees to receive TV. The detector vans pick up the IF, true. This tells them what channel you are watching. The can also pick up the line time base freq, and frame rate (Try it with a LW/MW radio near telly, it picks up a sharp hum)  From this they can even watch (poor quality though) what *you* have on the screen, by picking up re radiating junk.
I would like to hook up some cameras that were recently donated to our local community cable TV station which have sync inputs in the form of horizontal and vertical drive. Our station sync is a black burst which works fine with other boxes with "genlock" style inputs. Can anyone point me at a design, article, or whatever showing how to produce the horizontal & vertical drive signals? Thanks in advance. Jack Powers
Kuo-Sheng (Kasey) Chang (kschang@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu) wrote: > In article <1993Apr23.102935.17390@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> > sjmadsen@nextsrv.cas.muohio.edu (Steve Madsen) writes:   > > This is not a good idea.. I upgraded my motherboard last fall.  I >would > have been quite pissed at any software that would have forced me to > >reinstall simply because I changed motherboards. >  > Opinion is understandable.  :-)  I assume you have a tape drive?  Not all > of us have about 200 floppies around for backup, you know.    	Actually, no I don't have a tape drive.  In the event of a total hard disk failure, I reinstall the apps from originals, and restore the data from the backups I keep of that.  With upwards of 100Mb of stuff on my hard disk, there is no way I'm going to try and back it all up without a tape drive. :)  Would be nice to have one though!  > RAM is something you add all the time, so no.  It's more like BIOS > manufacturer and/or processor type (386/486/etc).  Data cannot be used, > esp with these new Flash ROM BIOS machines with updates on a diskette.  	Maybe, maybe not.  Today it doesn't happen as often (I would hope), but then if a BIOS is buggy and the user gets an upgrade, the BIOS information is going to change, at least the date anyway.  Tagging the BIOS manufacturer is still going to falsely tag those users who upgrade the motherboard.  This type of upgrade doesn't require a hard disk backup/restore.  > On the other hand, to make this LESS intrusive it could be disguised as > "Please Insert Original Disk #XX as I need file YYYYYY for update".  :-)  > It would be perfectly reasonable...  Sort of.  	As long as it wasn't done too terribly often.  Otherwise I think it would get annoying and the user would go looking for other software.  > > > This is silly.  It's much easier to loan disks to a friend and let > >them do an install than to backup your copy already on disk, and then > give >them that.  Your scheme isn't going to stop anyone.   > Of course it is easier.  Are you saying then the originals SHOULD allow > only one install?  What is your point?  	Of course not.  If something gets corrupted and my app needs to be reinstalled, the *worst* thing I want that software telling me is "this software has already been registered to <blank> and it is against the law to install it on other machines."  Or something similar; Access for Windows does this and it only requires a click on "OK" to go away.  Pretty non-intrusive, but it gets the point across.  > What I said was the program should have certain restriction (such as the > restrict-to-one-machine) UNTIL the program is registered with the > manufacturer.  The manufacturer will then supply the > then-proven-legitimate-user with a patch that will disable the restriction > and PROUDLY PROCLAIM the legal copy with the "Registered to XXX" screen.  	This is a great idea.  I like the key system that some shareware products use.  The only problem is that it will be difficult for big software companies to implement this without it getting very cost-ineffective for them and more of a burden than a benefit to the users.  -- Steve Madsen sjmadsen@nextsrv.cas.muohio.edu
For all people that are interested in every aspect of the 2600 try the zine:  2600 connection $1 cash to : Timothy Duarte PO Box N, 664 Westport, MA 02790  for sample
I am involved with a Michigan company that has an application requiring  wireless data transfer.  If you have expertise or information that may  assist us in this project, please contact me (INTERNET: leblanc@cvm.msu. edu).