waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <1993Apr15.193712.25996@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes: > In article <1993Apr15.020356.28944@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes: > >I take the electrodes of the Amp/Ohm/Volt meter whatever and connect one > >to each earlobe.  Then, symmetrically insert my fingers in each of the > >spark plug boots. No cheating guys!  both hands must be used! >  > I have just a couple of questions about this technique. >  > First, what firing order should I use?  Do I start with my pointer > finger or my pinky?  Left hand or right? >  > And secondly, I have a 12cyl and there are two cylinders unaccounted > for.  Any suggestions? >  > /andy >    How about your two big toes?  And while you're at it, why bother with removing the drain plug when you could remove the dipstick instead and suck it out from there with your mouth and then spit it out?
AW>>>My 85 Caprice Classic with 120K+ miles has finally reached   >>>the threshold of total number of mechanical problems that   >>>I am forced to post :).  Anyone out there who might be   >>>able to give me some pointers on one or more of the below,   >>>please e-mail or post!  AW>>>1. When making turns, especially when accelerating,   >>>there is usually a loud "thunk" from the rear of   >>>of the car.  Sounds like it could be the differential.  Wheel bearing, ujoint.   AW>>>2. On starting the car, I get blue (oil) smoke from   >>>the exhaust for 5-10 seconds.  Exhaust valves  Bad valve stem seals.  AW>>>3. Brakes.  More pedal travel than I feel comfortable   >>>with, but master cylinder is full and fluid is  Worn pads, rear brakes not adjusted up tight or worn out drums. 90% of low pedal complaints usually are from a rear brake problem.  AW>>>4. Tranny.  Tranny problems seem to be slowly getting   >>>worse -- takes almost 2 seconds to downshift from   >>>3rd to 2nd on heavy throttle application, and more   >>>recently, it is reluctant to shift from 2nd to 3rd.   >>>Fluid (checked with car running with tranny put   >>>through all the gears and then back to park, as per   >>>Haynes manual) is red and clear, and is on full mark. Possible modulator valve if equipped with one. Also could be the kickdoen cable.  AW>>>5. My springs all around are just about shot -- I have   >>>4 new shocks on, but car still skips out on bumps   >>>in turns at moderate to high speed.  How hard are   >>>they to change?  Can they be reconditioned? Difficult on front. Easy on rear. They are not expensive. about $75-$100 for front and less than $50 for the rear.  Its also kind of dangerous to work on the front springs without the proper equipment.                                                         Don    * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
In article <1993Apr14.225821.13000@advtech.uswest.com> joe@advtech.uswest.com ( Joe Thielen) writes: >Xref: sun1x rec.autos:5997 misc.consumers:3163 >Newsgroups: rec.autos,misc.consumers >Path: >sun1x!actcnews!psinntp!psinntp!uunet!wupost!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs >.ohio-state.edu!csn!cherokee!joe >From: joe@advtech.uswest.com ( Joe Thielen) >Subject: Re: Warped brake discs on '91 Taurus L >Message-ID: <1993Apr14.225821.13000@advtech.uswest.com> >Sender: news@advtech.uswest.com (Radio Free Boulder) >Nntp-Posting-Host: absoraka.advtech.uswest.com >Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies >References: <1993Apr8.161136.8994@bcrka451.bnr.ca> ><Dmerrill-130493170436@47.140.3.216> <1993Apr14.132206.19001@ryn.mro4.dec.com> >Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 22:58:21 GMT >Lines: 23   >In article <1993Apr14.132206.19001@ryn.mro4.dec.com> balsamo@stargl.enet.dec.com >(Antonio L. Balsamo (Save the wails)) writes: >> >>From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill) >>Subject: Re: Warped brake discs on '91 Taurus L >> >>   > Anyone else had the same problem ? >> >>       Well, I have an '92 Taurus GL.  Apparently they still haven't fixed the >>   problem with the rotors.  I've got 26K miles on the clock and I'm getting >>   the rotors (and pads) replaces tonight...at my expense of course. >> >>   Tony >>-- >>  >I owned a Ford Mustang 4 that had endless brake problems.  The bad >thing was that it had all other kinds of problems too.  Spent 2 months >in the shop in the first 2 years I owned it (bought new).   So I got >rid of it, and will more than likely not buy a Ford product in the >future.  The thing that really ticked me off was how Ford treated me. >They were such jerks it was unbelievable!  >-- Joe   In the past few years I have owned 3 Mustang GTs and now own a 91 T-Bird SC.  They all have had this problem. There was a recall on the T-bird for the brake  problem. The Ford dealer replaced the rotors and pads but the rotors warp  after about 10K miles. Between this problem and the fit and finish problems on  the T-Bird I'll never buy a Ford again.
In article <1993Apr22.044605.29922@leland.Stanford.EDU> underdog@leland.Stanford.EDU (Dwight Joe) writes: >In article <1993Apr22.041452.27262@eecs.nwu.edu> andrew@eecs.nwu.edu >(Andrew Sung Hyun Kim) writes: >>... >>What about the rice import issue?  Of course, it is not closed up >>like a shell,  but how open is it compared to to US?  > >Japan is _much_ more open than Korea. > >Yes.  A Pontiac Grand Am suffers a factor of _2_ increase in price >when it is exported to Japan. > >However, a Dodge vehicle (the one that Congressman Gephardt mentioned) >suffers a factor of _4_ increase in price when it is exported to Korea. >A Ford Taurus suffers the same problem.  A Honda Accord costs--I am >not making this up--$48,000 in Korea. > >Just how many people would want to buy a Honda Accord for $48,000? > >Solution:  All ships carrying Korean-made vehicles should be returned >           to Seoul.  Pronto.  Until as such time as Korea decides >           that it wants to abide by the rules of free and fair trade >           with the USA and Japan.  Now, now, before we get too carried away here....
In response to a post about SUV's, I got several unsolicited recommendations to check out the Land Cruiser, despite its astronomical price. The Toyota dealer told me it's a "cult car". If a car is good enough to create a passionate and loyal following, there must be something really extraordinary about it. So, all you Land Crusher Cultists - here is your chance to convert me.
yjwon@deca.cs.umn.edu (Youjip Won) writes:  > Hi! This is my first time to post on this news group. Now a days , I have stu >    There is a engine warning signal on the dash board. While driving, this si >   I wanna know how the engine warning signal comes. Is anybody out there who  >   Low oil pressure, usually.  Could be your oil pump, or... checked your oil lately???  MC
In article <1993Apr24.150653.8115@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Brian J Queiser) writes: >Examples: > >Ferrari's 512TR is a flat 12 boxer. >Porsche's 911 is a flat 6. >Subaru's Impreza is a flat 4.  i think you got it the other way round: the Ferrari flat 12 is a 180 degree v12 and not a "true" boxer, while the subaru and porsche are true boxers.  don't know about the vw bug though, but i suspect that it is also a true boxer.
In article <1993Apr6.060553.22453@cactus.org> boyle@cactus.org (Craig Boyle) writes:  ...deleted lines...  >>Well Sweden and Australia, and lord knows wherever else used to drive on >Australians still do drive on the "wrong" side of the road. I believe >Sweden changed in 1968. The way I heard it was that they swapped >all the traffic signs around one Sunday....     As I live in Sweden I remember the day perfectly well. We changed side 1967-09-03 (or 03-SEP-1967). I don't remeber the exactly time but it was in the night. (in the 'big' cities like Stockholm & Gothenburg all trafic was forbidden, exept busses and taxis, during the whole weekend.) The day was a Sunday and everything was prepared in before.  Before the day we was told to follow the yellow lines on the road and after it was the white one that matters. The signs with arrows on was prepared with a 'left mode' label that was torn off that night to reveal the new right mode arrow.  The year after Iceland also changed.  About cars: Before the H-day (H as in "Hoegertrafik". "hoeger" is Swedish and stands for 'right') practically all cars already had their steering wheels on the left side. Even the imported cars from UK had the wheel on 'the right side'. At last we have cars with the wheels on the right side. :-)  More contries that uses the left side is:  Japan Tanzania (I think) New Zeeland How about South Africa?  BTW. Some sais that the left side is the right side because Ivanhoe and other knights meet at the left when they fight in tournaments. :-)  ...deleted lines...
In article <oTNm3B1w165w@cybernet.cse.fau.edu> vlasis@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (vlasis theodore) writes: > >I can put a 32valve V-8 with twin Garret-4s on Yugo and get 7.7sec QM. >Thats useless ... Its still a Yugo that will loose any race on a track, >or on the street.  A Yugo that will go 1/4mi in 7.7 seconds will _not_ lose on the street. That's just too damn quick. It might be wrapped around a telephone pole at the end of that quarter mile, but it will be there alone...  >Have you Detroit beings compared the ultra-long-throw stick shifts of >the 5.0 with the 93 MR2 turbo or 93 RX7 (I ll buy it in 6 mos) ?  Or you could replace the stock shifter with a Hurst short-throw shifter (available from Ford Motorsport), or any number of other after-market products to boost the performance of a Mustang or Camaro. Can you do _that_ with a '93 RX-7, or, verily, with _any_ MR-2? With the Detroit aftermarket, you can build a Mustang or Camaro which is superior to either car you mention for less than the sticker price of either.  >Or the Torsen differential of the RX7 compared to the Differential of  >the 5.0 that sounds in every hairpin turn ?  Well, gee. It works, and it doesn't break. It transmits power to the drive wheels, and it's essentially zero maintenance--and there's an aftermarket in parts for Ford and Chevy rear-ends, too.  >And bythe way 5.0 and Camaro both have drums on the rear breaks ... >Hello , this is the 90 's ?  Well, the '93 Mustang Cobra (which, from all reports, uses the same running gear as '94 Mustang) has 4-wheel disks. I can't speak for the new Camaro, but I think it does, too.  Also, stop and think about the markets here. The Mustang is, and always has been, a mass-market sporty car (that's where the "pony car" class came from) with a performance model. That's why it has the econo-box running gear. That was also factored into the design of the Mustang from the day Lee Iacocca conceived his baby; it was designed as a wide-market car--sporty, yet  accessible--with room for performance tweaking.  The cars you listed are designed for a specific market niche, and they both fit those niches very well. The Mustang, at least, does well in multiple markets; I can't speak for the Camaro.  				James
In article <1993Apr24.003549.126206@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> amh2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ALOIS M. HIMSL) writes:  >In article <1993Apr15.155325.6329@jpl-devvax.jpl.nasa.gov>, nancy@hayduke (Nancy > Feagans) writes: >>Ashtrays and cigarette lighters.  These should be an *option*.  >You forget that the cigarette lighter plug is essential for plugging in radar >detectors and lights. The ashtrays are also essential because they are great >places to keep change and tokens.  Wouldn't you rather have some type of standard "electrical" plug instead of  that "fire hazard waiting to happen" adaptor? I know I would, and I would  also prefer to have sensibly placed cup holders instead of an ashtray. (my  car came with coin holders already built in)
Mark Monninger (markm@latium.) wrote: > Although not in direct response to the referenced article, just to set the  > record straight, Beamers are BMW motorcycles. BMW cars are Bimmers. Please, > let's get our terms straight. >  > Actually, some purists would argue that the only true Bimmer is a round > tail light 2002 or 1600. >  > Mark Back when I was building round tail light 2002s they were Bimmers.  It was only when the (red suspendered, Reganomics generated, quiche eating) Yuppies got into the market >-( that they became Beamers and the hood ornaments started disappering.
asdch@acad2.alaska.edu writes:  >	Tony,  I believe, first of all, that Max's car is an Austrailian >built car.  I don't think its a chopped up U.S. unit.   The last V8 in Mad Max is based on a Holden (Australia). Holden is linked with GM (Vauxhall GB) and so they're quite unlikely to use  Ford parts.
In article <NEILSON.93Apr15135919@seoul.mpr.ca>, neilson@seoul.mpr.ca (Robert Neilson) writes... #[sorry for the 0 auto content, but ... ] #  #> That is why low-abiding citizens should have the power to protect themselves #> and their property using deadly force if necessary anywhere a threat is  #> imminent. #> #> Steve Heracleous #  #You do have the power Steve. You *can* do it. Why don't you? Why don't you #go shoot some kids who are tossing rocks onto cars? Make sure you do a good #job though - don't miss - 'cause like they have big rocks - and take it from #me - those kids are mean.    This last comment was obviously a bit cynical, but a true statement of  the attitude of some drivers (there's your "autos" content), I would say.    What law-abiding (not "low-abiding" as above (talk about Freudian slips!))  citizens have the right and responsibility to do is try to PREVENT this  type of behaviour in children.  A doctor may have to use "deadly force"  against a part of a body (like amputating it) when an infection/disease  has gone too far.  But his real desire would have been to *prevent* the  disease in the first place or at least nip it in the bud.     Followups should go to alt.parents-teens   Fred W. Bach ,    Operations Group        |  Internet: music@erich.triumf.ca  TRIUMF (TRI-University Meson Facility)    |  Voice:  604-222-1047 loc 327/278  4004 WESBROOK MALL, UBC CAMPUS            |  FAX:    604-222-1074  University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., CANADA   V6T 2A3
I have both an '84 and an '86 Camry, each with manual 5-speed transmissions. The '84 has about 105,000 miles on it and the '86 about 83,000 miles.  ABout a year ago I found that the master cylinder on the clutch in the '84 was         leaking fluid around the piston seal, leading to air in the system and fluid back into the passenger compartment of the car.  I pulled the plunger and got a rebuild kit (new plunger, seal, etc.) and thought I had the problem licked.  Much to my surprise, the same problem developed several months later!  This time I looked carefully at the master cylinder to make sure there were no scratches, burrs, or other obvious causes of the problem.  I didn't find any.  Ever since I have been periodically feeding the clutch hydraulins additional fluid and bleeding air from the system.  I knew I would be selling the car and didn't want to go all the way to solving the problem.  I should add that the clutch is original, and that I've had to adjust the pedal to allow maximum extension of the piston into the master cylinder in order to actuate the clutch.  My hypothesis is that this means that when fully depressing the clutch pedal, the angle of the piston rod (attached to the pedal) is off the axix of the cylinder, thus cocking the piston and seal and perhaps deforming it.  What do you think of that as an explanation?  Can you suggest a possible fix short of replacing the master cylinder and getting a new clutch put in?  Now the '86: same problem, except that the above diagnosis doesn't explain why all of the fluid leaked out (by way of the master cylinder, into the passenger compartment) while I was on vacation for 10 days, during which the clutch pedal was not depressed or otherwise caused to distort.  What can you suggest here?  Many thanks.  Let's hope I don't end up going to Click and Clack on this...
Hello all,  I know that after market sunroofs may have left a bad taste in some of   your mouths, but I am really interested in finding a "good" brand if one   exists.  Please let me know if you have heard of any makers with a good reputation (few failures, no leaks, that sort of thing) and whether or not you have had first hand experience with that manufacturer.  Who is generally regarded in the industry as the "best" (price no object) maker   of power sunroofs??   --Steve
In a previous article, callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) says:  >In article <1qn4ev$3g2@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes: >> >>In a previous article, wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie) says: >> >>>In article <1qkon8$3re@armory.centerline.com> jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes: >>>>larger engine.  That's what the SHO is -- a slightly modified family >>>>sedan with a powerful engine.  They didn't even bother improving the >>>>*brakes.* >>> >>>	That shows how much you know about anything.  The brakes on the >>>SHO are very different - 9 inch (or 9.5? I forget) discs all around, >>>vented in front.  The normal Taurus setup is (smaller) discs front,  >>>drums rear. >> >>one i saw had vented rears too...it was on a lot. >>of course, the sales man was a fool..."titanium wheels"..yeah, right.. >>then later told me they were "magnesium"..more believable, but still >>crap, since Al is so m uch cheaper, and just as good.... >> >>i tend to agree, tho that this still doesn't take the SHO up to "standard" >>for running 130 on a regular basis.  The brakes should be bigger, like >>11" or so...take a look at the  ones on the Corrados.(where they have >>braking regulations). > >Well, let's see...my T-Bird SC has a computer-controlled adjustable >suspension, 4-wheel ABS disks (11" vented front, 10" (?) rear), 3-point >belts, sturdy passenger compartment, aerodynamics good enough for  >NASCAR without too much change, 210 hp/310 ft-lb supercharged 3.8l V6, >4-wheel independent suspension (plus limited-slip differential), with  >a top speed in excess of 130mph, and rides on V-rated tires (I have yet >to find 225/60-R16s in any other speed rating).  > >Is that "up to standard"? If not, why not? > >				James  james, i really hate to do this, but try reading the damn posts! never was a t'bird mentioned.  The discussion was about SHO's and 'stangs not being up to spec.  I do not know about t'birds.  I only know that the specs quoted for the SHO by previous poster sounded a little anemic for me to say that it was up to snuff.  This does not in any way  disencourage* me from wishing to own one, nor does it make it a bad car.  It merely means that i think Ford could have added that extra bit of safety  and tossed in larger brakes, as the wheels are plenty large enough for them to fit (if memory serves right, which it may very well not) and the motor plenty powerful enough to need it.
In article <1993Apr14.171718.18852@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> sheinfel@ssd.comm.mot.com (Aviad Sheinfeld) writes: > >>	Do you think I can use a electric drill( change to a suitable >>bit ) to turn it out?  If I can succeed, can I re-tighten it not too >>tight, is it safe without oil leak? > >Tighten the bolt to the specified torque in your service manual.  That >way it won't leak, strip, break, etc. (hopefully :-) ) >> >>Thank you very much in advance------  Winson > >Aviad  You can avoid these problems entirely by installing an oil drain valve in place of the bolt.  I have one on both of my cars.  There have been no leaks in 210,000 miles (combined miles on both cars).
It's a toll for insurance companies and auto dealers to rip you off in case of accident or trade-in.  Charlie Ellis chellis@nyx.cs.du.edu
And here's my two cents:  The best convertible for the money, IMO, is the Miata. Yes, it's small, but you're buying it as a second car, I hope, so you don't need the cargo room of a big car. It's got enough power for fun, it's RWD like a sports car ought to be (I'm gonna regret that :-{) and the top, while manual, operates like a dream. 30 seconds and one hand to lower, and not much longer to raise.  The targa-type cars are nice, but they're not real convertibles.  --
Hi! This is my first time to post on this news group. Now a days , I have stucked at a certain problem. I have '88 mazda mx-6, non  turbo fuel injection.    There is a engine warning signal on the dash board. While driving, this signal turns on, but not always. What does this mean? In the manual, they say "Go to authorized mazda dealer.". It is really good idea. Don't you think so?    I wanna know how the engine warning signal comes. Is anybody out there who can give me same advice as "authorized mazda dealer" can give ?  Youjip Won
Since this posting, I've received no replies or followups, so I'm posting here hoping for the feedback I didn't get in rec.audio.car:  article number - 9855 Newsgroups: rec.audio.car Path: cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!vinlai From: vinlai@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (vincent.lai) Subject: Third party car antennas ... Message-ID: <1993Apr13.202333.28657@cbfsb.cb.att.com> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Distribution: na Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 20:23:33 GMT  I recently saw a particular third party antenna on a new Camry (not mine, but it caught my interest) and a new 626.  It seems to replace the factory power antenna and is about a foot long made of plastic tubing.  I have seen them on quite a few cars, but I can't find anything more about them in previous r.a.c articles nor in r.a articles.  I'd like to know all I can, so any feedback is greatly appreciated.  ------------------------------------------------------------------ "Mom, we're hungry!" - Bud Bundy        "Why tell me?" - Peg Bundy  Vincent Lai  vinlai@cbnewsb.att.com forwards mail to vlai@attmail.com which eventually winds up in wcmnja!lai@somerset.att.com
In article <C5K5Co.F09@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> thwang@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Tommy Hwang) writes: >	Sorry for the mis-spelling, but I forgot how to spell it after  >my series of exams and NO-on hand reference here. > >	Is it still possible to get those cute WWII VW Jeep-wanna-be's? >A replica would be great I think.   > >							-TKH '93  The VW "Thing" Kubelwagen lookalike is still manufactured in Mexico and  possibly South America.  Good luck importing one--  They probably don't meet  US safety and pollution requirements.  There are mechanics and junkyards  which specialize in VW; they might be helpful for finding a "Thing" unless  the WWII re-enacters have grabbed them all.  The WWII Kubelwagen was the German equivalent of the Jeep, but was not 4- wheel drive.  One is on display at the Patton Museum at Fort Knox, Kentucky,  also the rare "Schwimwagen" (sp?) amphibious version, in full-scale dioramas. Highly recommended!  --
ejv2j@Virginia.EDU ("Erik Velapoldi") writes: >What the hell is happening to this great country of ours?  I >can see boyhood pranks of peeing off of bridges and such, but >20 pound rocks??!  Has our society really stooped this low??  You make it sound like this behavior is new.  It isn't.  A lot of pedestrian bridges have fencing that curls up over the sidewalk to make this kind of think a lot harder to do.  I don't understand the mentality myself, but then again I couldn't figure out MOVE! (I'm glad they bombed 'em) or the Waco Wackos either.  (Newsgroup list trimmed significantly)
Hi:  I am looking for tires.  I would like to hear your experience on the  BF Goodrich Radial T/A tires and/or the Touring T/A especially for size P185/70R13.  For Radial T/A: How do they do in SNOW, and WET weather?  Are they quiet tires?  For Touring T/A: How many miles can they last?  I believe they are in                  every way equal/better than Radial T/A.  Am I right?
Yeah... and BMW 525e has 2.7 litres 		535      3.4   BTW - can someone out there please tell me how to put someone else's file  on and then reply to that so the other person's file and my own 'reply' go to the newgroups together? (ps: just mail me personally)