waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
Tall Cool One (rky57514@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote: : As the subject says - Can I use a 4052 for digital signals?  I don't see : why it couldn't handle digital signals, but I could be wrong.  Anyone have : any advice?  Thanks.  The switches have a non-negligable on resistance (up to 1k ohm when powered by 5 volts) and a maximum current and a Maximum Static Voltage Across Switch.  Not a good bet for TTL.  Should work for CMOS, but slow things down a bit.  There are 74HC versions that have better specs. but lower max voltage.
Hi,  I am looking for a PC card which does european videotext/teletext descrambling (PAL). Does anyone in the US sell such a card? I once saw an article about a card with the same functionallity in a european Elektor magazine, but I wasn't able to track it down.
Does anyone out there know of any ftp sites which deal with  electronics projects, plans, etc?  Any response appreciated.:) JB
Would anyone have a few extra 3479P's lying around that I  could buy off of them.. Problem is that around here I can only perchase  them in $30 quantities, and I don't need this, and can't take this  financially right now....                            If anyone can accomodate me with this PLEASE  reply to BOTH for the following mailing addresses...                           Thanks!!!   _______________________________________________                  |                                 |    _______   |    Baden de Bari                |   /       \  |     baden@sys6626.bison.mb.ca   |  (| o   o |) |     baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca   |   |   ^   |  | >> True life can only           |   \  -=-  /  | >> be experianced by            |    \_____/   | >> those who do not fear death. |
I would appreciate some help in locating a telephone controlled power bar for my PC. The unit would power up the PC when the telephone rings and keep it up as long as the telephone connection is present.  I also need to be able to power up this same PC through the use of an external timer. I can supply power or a contact closure to do this.  I will summarize and post the results of this query here.  Thank you.
In article <1rh9b0INN2r4@snoopy.cis.ufl.edu> ruck@beach.cis.ufl.edu (John Ruckstuhl) writes: >I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know what solvent I should  >use to clean duct-tape adhesive from carpet? >Someone taped wires to the carpet, and now it is time to move out. > I don't know for sure that this will work, but you might try MEK (methyl ethyl keytone?).  It worked getting the stickum left over from shelf paper, and is available at paint stores.  Use a carbon gas mask and lots of ventilation--this stuff really stinks!
In article <1993Apr15.100452.16793@csx.cciw.ca> u009@csx.cciw.ca (G. Stewart Beal) writes: >In article <120466@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines) writes: >> >>	I was wondering if people had any good uses for old >>256k SIMMs.  I have a bunch of them for the Apple Mac >>and I know lots of other people do to.  I have tried to >>sell them but have gotten NO interest. >> >>	So, if you have an inovative use (or want to buy >>some SIMMs  8-) ), I would be very interested in hearing >>about it. >> >One of the guys at work takes 20 of them, uses cyano-acrylate glue to make >five four-wide "panels" then constructs a box, with bottom, to use as a >pencil holder. >  Or, if you've got some entreprenuerial (sp?) spirit, get a cheapy clear plastic box, mount the simm inside, and sell it as a 'Pet SIMM'!  I'm sure there are *plenty* of suckers out there who would go for it!
acollins@uclink.berkeley.edu (Andy Collins) writes:  > One not-so-quick question to throw out there for you guys... >  > For our class project, we need to design and build a power supply > to the following specs: >  > Voltatge:  adjustable from 1-12V > Current:   *limited* at 1A >  > Voltage must stay within 2% of designated value for I from 0-1A > AC ripple less than 5 mV (rms) >  > Of course, we can't just use an adjustable voltage, current-limiting > regulator chip ;^) >  > Our problem is with the current limiting (i.e. we've found stuff to > do the rest of the parts of the circuit).  What the supply must do, > if presented with a load which would draw more than 1A, given the > supply voltage, is reduce the voltage so that the current will equal > one amp.  Thus, if we were to short the thing with the ammeter, we > should read one amp.  If we measure the current through a 1 ohm  > resistor at 12V, we should read one amp (and the output voltage, by > necessity, must be 1V. >  > The only basic idea we have seen for the current limiter involves > a circuit which will pull current off of the base of the output  > power transistor, and therefore reduce the output. >  > So, does anybody have any ideas we could work from? >  > Thanks in advance. >  > Andy Collins, KC6YEY > acollins@uclink.berkeley.edu >  > ps: If anybody wants to flame this as a stupid project, I agree fully, >     but I still have to do it, its graded ;^) >   You can design for ramp shutoff, brick-wall current limit or even  fold-back cutoff....sounds like you want "BRICK-WALL" current limit.  Your lead is correct to pull down the bias to the series regulator base  drive. In order to get the brick -wall, you need enough voltage gain on  the current sensor.  Normally a darlington on the current sensing  resistor will be adequate, but for infinite gain.. use an op amp to sense  the current releative to a stable voltage reference and use a driver to  turn off the base bias on the series-pass transistor.  Phase compensation  may be necessary with this closed loop control system if yopu have more  than 180 degrees phase shift in your feedabck circuit at unity gain OK??
In article <WD.93Apr26122020@sam.cs.tu-berlin.de>, wd@cs.tu-berlin.de (Wolfgang Diestelkamp) writes... >In article <1rg36hINNsr6@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> hugo@cats.ucsc.edu (Hugo Calendar) writes: >  >> I'm wondering if I can tote my American touch tone phone around with me >> to Sweden and Germany.  It's DC powered, and I can buy a special adapter >> for that in Europe.  The question is if the general electronics work >> the same.  I can buy a different wall plug and refit it (I'm sure I'd >> have to), but would that do the trick? >  >Two things to watch for: >In Germany (and I think the same holds for Sweden) only some >of the connections can handle tone dialing, so make sure the >phone can be set to pulse dialing. >In Sweden, the '0' is the first digit and all other digits >are pushed "down" by one position; this makes dialing (and >in the process converting numbers) an interesting task. >Otherwise, it is technically no problem to connect a foreign >phone to either the German or Swedish phone system. >OTOH neither you nor I would ever try that, as it is of course >illegal. >--   I am not quite so sure about the illegality of using a regular American phone on your home system. I vaguely remember a few years ago, when "Deutsche Bundespost" split into Postdienst, Postbank, and Telekom there was some discussion about a new regulation. I know that cordless or cellular phones still have to be approved by the Telekom, but does that hold true for regular phones? In my areacode in Germany (2234 - Frechen, near Koeln) you can use touch-tone dialing. I assume, however, that most areas are still exclusively set to pulse dialing. Last time I checked (Jan '93) the Cologne areacode 221 was still solely pulse dialing.  BTW, touch tone does become more common in Germany, bringin with it the flourishing of 1-900 services (in Germany 0190). I just hope we'll all have ISDN some time at an affordable price - idle wishes...  Markus Iturriaga                                            "Things go smoother with lard!" iturriag@utkvx.utk.edu       "Bring back the glory that was grease!"  iturriag@utkvx.bitnet           -East Tennessee Lard Advisory Council                                MILLARD FILLMORE LIVES!
Hello,  I am looking for carbon-doped rubber.    Or an highly elastic material that changes its resistivity, or some other electrical property when streched.  If you could email me any info you may have on material names or companies that make the stuff it would be highly appreaciated.
I'm doing some work on the Mac IIsi and need some information on the CPU. I have the Motorola MC68030UM/AD Rev. 1, but I fear it is out of date as it does not have the characteristics for the CPU package type used in the IIsi.  What I need is the Theta (JC) Thermal Characteristic (the Junction to Case thermal resistance) for the _PLASTIC_ FE style package.  If you have this info, I would appreciate your sending it by email as postings suffer a few days delay here.  If you are keen on this stuff, I am also interested in a more accurate value for the typical power dissipation. I'm assuming 2.25 Watts (using the 2.6 W maximum at 0 C decreased the way the Pd drops in the 6801x as Ta increases). If your manual has a chart of power dissipation, I'd like to know what it reads at 25 C and 40 C.  Thanks for reading!
I have an eprom blower made by Logical Devices and the  model name is Prompro-8, but I have lost the manual. Does anyone  have a spare manual that they would like to sell ?
I really don't know where to post this question so I figured that this board would be most appropriate. I was wondering about those massive concrete cylinders that are ever present at nuclear poer sites. They look like cylinders that have been pinched in the middle. Does anybody know what the actual purpose of those things are?. I hear that they're called 'Cooling Towers' but what the heck do they cool? I hope someone can help
In article <gyJX2B2w165w@inqmind.bison.mb.ca>, dino@inqmind.bison.mb.ca (Tony stewart) writes: > jfsenior@unix1.tcd.ie (John Senior) writes: >  >> Recently, I discovered that it was possible to receive cable >> tv through the telescopic aerial on the top of my tv. >> The nearer this aerial is moved to the cable (which I am not >> connected to) which runs under the eaves of the house the better >> the signal.  Now, I was wondering how can I improve the signal? >> Is it possible to improve the signal significantly? (some channels >  > CABLE EGRESS or emanations if you will are being radiated at free space  > impedance from cables that may be harmonically realated to certain  > channels and therfore the standing waves at 1/4 wave will transfer  > efficiently. Also your antenna (a loose monopole) is also harmonically  > tuned and will be more efficient at 1/2 wavelength multiples. >  > Your best bet for this research is to use a tuned YAGI antenna to get the  > gain you need. (Std TV roof antenna type) The dipoles should be parallel  > to the radiating cable. A pre-amp doesn't help significantly in my  > experience in most cases. >  > dino@inqmind.bison.mb.ca > The Inquiring Mind BBS, Winnipeg, Manitoba  204 488-1607  Wow, what a concept!  Does anybody want to speculate on how this "non-connection" would fit into the theft of cable services laws? It seems to me that unless this case is specifically written into the legislation that the cable company would not have a leg to stand upon in court.  Does anybody out there have any specific legal knowledge on this?
I have an HP 1815 TDR plug-in for an HP180 series scope or mainframe that I'm never going to use (no scope any more). If you're interested in it, please let me know. Price? Probably real cheap.  This notice may have appeared once before. I posted, and it never showed up on our local server...  --  --------------------------------------------------------------------        Dave Medin			Phone:	(205) 730-3169 (w)     SSD--Networking				(205) 837-1174 (h)     Intergraph Corp.        M/S GD3004 		Internet: dtmedin@catbyte.b30.ingr.com   Huntsville, AL 35894		UUCP:  ...uunet!ingr!b30!catbyte!dtmedin     ******* Everywhere You Look (at least around my office) *******
hooperw@spot.Colorado.EDU (Wayne Hooper) writes:  > victor@inqmind.bison.mb.ca (Victor Laking) writes: >  > >You are experiencing what is called Macrovision.  It is the protection  > >that they use on the video tapes.  There are two ways around this that I  > >know of.  First of all, you can try using a different VCR to copy onto. > >It is the input of the VCR that reacts to the protection so sometimes  > >just switching the two VCRs around will take care of it.  Some models  > >just don't react to it. >  > Does this also affect the viewing of tapes ? I have had problems with > a couple of rented tapes; they were virtually unviewable. I fiddled  > with the tuning, tracking and vertical hold but it was no good. >    It sounds like your TV is one of the ones that also reacts to the video  protection.  (Poor you!)  The Macroscrubber from Radio Electronics removes the protection so you  souldn't have any more problems.  However, if you use the method of  copying it from one VCR to another where the second VCR doesn't react to  the protection, you will end up with a duplicate tape, including the  protection.  One thought comes to mind about your problem...  When playing the tape  for viewing, are you feeding the signal from the source VCR through an  extra device before going to the TV?  If you feed it through a second VCR  first, that is your problem.  As to other devices such as converters, I  don't know if they would react or not.  Just to be safe, you might want  to make sure that you have NOTHING between the VCR and TV.
In article <1993Apr22.030133.23553@monu6.cc.monash.edu.au> craw@yoyo.cc.monash.edu.au (Sebastian Filzek) writes: >Hi people.. > >OK heres my problem....  >I keep hearing about these little credit card type of things which >detect IR light.... > >I think that they are avaliable in the states and even in England, but >alas I live in Australia.  Could someone please inform me if I can get >these things over here, and if so where??? and how much??? >  Sure,  Edmund Scientific Company 101 E. Glouchester Pike Barrington, NJ, 08007-1380 (609) 573-6250  The card is on page 15 of the last catalog I got. The cost ranges from $19.00US to $80.00US, depending on size and range of wavelengths the card responds to.
In article <C5HHKo.1ry@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu> mobasser@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu (Bijan Mobasseri) writes: >> There are two simple procedures for alterating any odometer. >> >>1. Mechanical driven odometer: >>    Remove the speedo cable from the transmission. >>    Attach a drill and run at max speed until the speedo turns over. >>    Continue until the desired mileage is reached. >==================================== >Admittedly an irrelavent question:for how long should the drill be running? > >Bijan  A verrrrrry long time, like on the order of days.  I had the pleasure of doing that once (playing with the speedo cable) and with my B&D heavy duty at full speed (600 rpm) all the speedo ever got up to was 30 MPH.  Now if you go a high speed drill and ran it at say 4000 rpm, you could get 200 MPH out of it.  (If you speedo doesn't burn out.)  Anyways, to roll a 100000 Mile odometer would take 22 days or so.  Much easier just to take the speedo apart.  Thought I'd share.  BTW, all this info was obtained legally  :-)
koberg@spot.Colorado.EDU (Allen Koberg) writes:  >I'm looking for any and all information regarding packet radio >implementation on the PC.  Software, hardware, whatever.  >Please e-mail any info to koberg@spot.colorado.edu.  >Thanks   	Try rec.radio.packet         _______  ______     /        /        /       /    Michael A. de Kraker    /        /______  /       /     Georgia State University  404-651-2390   /    ___        / /       /      Internet:REGMAD@GSUSGI2.GSU.EDU  /_______/ ______/ /_______/       BITNET  :REGMAD@GSUVM1  PACKET:KD4FKW@W4QO
In article <1qpj5t$itg@vela.acs.oakland.edu>, eabyrnes@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Ed Byrnes) wrote: >  > My monitor display has a bad case of the wigglies. I have a good ground. I > live in an old house and I have replaced much of the wiring. I have two > EMI filters on the computer, the monitor plugs into the computer. When > fluorescent lights are on upstairs, the display jiggles, when motors run > in the house, the display jiggles, when incandescent lights are on in the > kitchen the display jiggles.  I could bring a separate line from the > breaker box, and use it only for the computer, would this do it? EMI > doesn't only travel the 110 volt line though. Should I shield the back of > the monitor? Ground a grid or plate?  > Your expertise is appreciated. Thanks very much!  Ed Byrnes   Aaahh... a problem very near and dear to my heart. In our case, other monitors cause this problem - the deflection coil of other monitors to be specific. Have also seen a monitor backed up to a fuse panel exhibit this problem. This sounds like your problem since flourescent lites, motors, etc several 10s of feet away seem to me to be too far to cause it, but the juice running to them must pass nearby your monitor. Fusebox on other side of wall maybe? We started spec'ing Panasonic CT-1331Y video monitors (3 switchable input lines(vid & aud) S-VHS on one) <$400. This stopped the wavy interference effect on the computer monitor next to it.  Now on to your problem. You need what is known as mu shielding (very common, in fact almost mandatory on electrostatic deflection type O'scopes). I talked to a EE prof. He said get a coffee can, cut both ends off, mount around deflection coil of interfering monitor.  BE CAREFUL TO AVOID ALL HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITRY. ESPECIALLY THE THICKER HIGH VOLTAGE ANODE LEAD USUALLY COLORED RED. IF YOU KILL YOURSELF, DON'T BLAME/SUE ME!!! USE PLASTIC OR OTHER NON-CONDUCTING STAND-OFFS AND SUCH TO MOUNT CAN. Now, I would assume that what is good for keeping mag fields in is also good at keeping them out, so hopefully this'll work by mounting shield on monitor being interfered with as well. If not, start shielding those other sources.
Anyone out there in netland have a spare data pod or two from an old  1615A Hewlett Packard logic analyzer?  If you do, I'd like to buy it off of you.  The pod's part number is 10248B.  As a side note, anyone know of any good surplus dealer or other organization that would carry wayward logic analzer pods?
Can some kind soul provide me with information on LDRs that contain an onboard light-source, in a totally integrated and light-shielded unit.  I have seen a VTL5C LDR in some schematics.  So who are the manufacturers of these devices, and what are the different types.  Thanks very much in advance, Jim.  -------------------------------------------------------------------------------   Jim Trivellas.   Department of Electrical & Electronic Engineering.   School of Information Technology & Electrical Engineering.   The University of Melbourne, Parkville 3052, Victoria, Australia.                   |                   |                   |			Telephone: +61 3 3447976                 *****			Email: jimt@mullian.ee.mu.oz.au      _______*************_______    _|_____*****************_____|_  _|_|_____*****************_____|_|_	"Hello, is that the front desk?" | | ________*************________ | |			Allan Holdsworth |  |            *****            |  |    |          The  SPID          |
In article <1rh9b0INN2r4@snoopy.cis.ufl.edu> ruck@beach.cis.ufl.edu (John Ruckstuhl) writes: >I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know what solvent I should  >use to clean duct-tape adhesive from carpet?  Yet another suggestion, but this one is non-toxic (although I would handle it like any other cleaner) and it smells nice.  The chemical is called d-Limonene, and it smells like lemon peels (I think it is a lemon extract of some kind).  You might find it in a hardware store, sold as a general-purpose solvent, but your best bet would be any bike store -- it is used as a chain-cleaning fluid.  It works on sticker glue, crayons, grease, oil, etc.  It's clear yellow in the bottle, and you can use it straight; if you add water, it changes to a creamy consistency, which is good for some jobs.
In article <1rjobdINNk1s@crcnis1.unl.edu> mpaul@unl.edu (marxhausen paul) writes: >I remember, back before commercial mikes with the "PZM" label (for >Pressure Zone Microphone) started showing up, I read an article, >in some engineering journal, that described the principles involved. >All the physics aside, from a practicle standpoint the author's said >they built a prototype with nothing more than a small Sony lavelier >mike laid up against a large aluminum disk.  In demonstrating it at >a presentation to audio engineers, this was impressive enough that >the people present were bugging them about where they could buy them.  Yup, it's not all that difficult to do.  >Anyway...I want to build some to use as "choir mikes" (wide coverage). >I've had good luck using some small electret mike elements I got >from Digi-Key - most of these are limited-bandwidth, peakey units >but for a buck or two more I got the ones spec'd to go out to 20kHz >with a bit flatter response.    The Panasonic cartridges aren't bad, but they aren't spectacular.  >The distance of the mike opening from the flat plate is kind of >critical.  I'm debating whether to mount it on it's side, which >puts the opening a shade under 2mm from the plate, or mounting >it with the opening actually pointing down into the plate at a >small clearance.  I haven't dissected a unit like you can buy at >Radio Shack to see how they do it.  Thoughts?  Don't mount it on the side.  Call up Crown, the company that has the patent on the PZM, and ask them for information on construction and use of the things.  You may have to determine the correct spacing emperically with a noise source and a spectrum analyzer because the design of the Panasonic cartridges uses a tuned cavity in front of the electret element to increase the high frequency response, and you are going to be altering the resistance through the cavity entrance.  Crown has a nice book on the subject, though it's unfortunately rather short on mathematics.  There's a JAES article from many years back, too.
In article <1993Apr20.173742.99726@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> hl00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (HOU-SHENG LIN) writes: >Well, I'm not too sure if this would be the right place to post this, but >anyway, here goes:  I was just noticing that some of the current bubblejet >printers offers up to 360x360 resolution while a lot of lower end laser >printers only offer 300x300.  However, the laser printers still seems to be >significantly pricier than the bubblejets... how is this?  Or am I missing >something about the resolution thing?  Bubblejets often splatter a little bit, whereas LaserJets (given half-way decent toner, like HP's "Microfine" stuff) don't.  Both produce very good output, but you don't have to look too closely at the two to tell that LaserJet output is definitely superior.    On the other hand, LaserJets which haven't been maintained properly and use the cheapest toner the owner could find often produce awful output, much worse than a bubblejet. :-)  One other thing... there are bubblejets, and then there are BubbleJets. There are a few bubblejets out there that produce rather mediocre output (such as HP's dinky little BubbleJet), whereas most produce really good looking output (such as HP's DeskJets).  IBM and Canon both produce some of the really good style bubblejets.  					---Joel Kolstad