waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
Several years back one of the radar detectors manufacturers, in defiance to Virginia's law against radar detectors, passed out thousands of fake cardboard radar detectors at truck stops near the Virginia State lines.  At that time there were no radar detector Detectors!  I am not sure of the impact but I would imagine that enforcement of the law by visually sighting a radar detector became difficult - if not impossible!  As I said earlier, efforts to throw out or eliminate the VA law against radar detectors has been in vain.  In fact, effective Jan. 1, 1993, the fine for possession of a radar detector accessable to the driver of a vehicle in VA is now $250.00.    I have noted an interesting anomality with my Alinco DR-100 2 meter ham transceiver.... It will make a *cheap* radar detector scream!  I am not sure of the range, but it is obvious by the brake lights that it can be at least 50 feet at 50 watts! :-)
In Texas (Well, Corpus Christi anyway) if you pick up the phone and dial 890 the phone company will read back the number to you. Try it. It might work.
In article <1993Apr23.205257.10578@sol.ctr.columbia.edu> seema@madvlsi.columbia.edu (Seema Varma) writes: >Hi, >	I am looking for a very high speed  >D/A converter (at least 8bits and 150MHz) for >a research application. A paper in  the January >issue of IEEE Solid-State Circuits mentions a  >GaAs, 1GHz, 8bit DAC - anyone know where I can find >such a thing? Even a somewhat slower Si DAC would >do. >	Needless to say, I have looked in all the >conventional places (Vitesse, Motorola, National, >etc. etc.). Any pointers would be appreciated.  	Think video.  Brooktree sells a whole line of DACs that can 	be used, normally for graphics applications, in either 50 or 	75 ohm systems.  For example, the BT468 can be had in speeds 	up to about 200 mHz, BT492 to 360 mHz, and 400 mHz with the 	BT109.    >--- Seema Varma
Can anyone please email a diagram or give me details of an ftp site where there is a diagram of a simple, small fm mono voice transmitter for trasnmitting in the 90-104 range (preferably above 100 Mhz). Only a short distance requiered, and frequency variation no too important but must run from 9v or smaller DC supply.  Thanx in advance  Monty.
Hi All!     I would like to know what are the popular ICs of the type, their capabilities (# of channels et.c.) and prices :-)     Great thanks,
In article <199304241405.AA11067@kepler.unh.edu> dmn@kepler.unh.edu (There's a seeker born every minute.) writes: > > >     I'm looking for a circuit that will flash an led on in response  >to the output from a walkman cassette player. How could I do this? >I don't want it just to turn on, I want it to 'strobe' once so to speak, >per every beep I put on a cassette tape.  > >     Would it be better to use a circuit based on the volume of the beeps >on the cassette, or better for the leds to respond to a tone of a certain >frequency? Is there any easy way to do either of these? I'm looking for  >the simplest circuit possible. I guess what I'm asking for is some sort of >color organ, but not quite. Let me trt to explain again... > > >     I'm going to have a pattern of beats (or beeps) on a cassette tape. >So on the tape you'd hear:   beep! (pause) beep! (pause) beep! (pause)..etc.  >, with speed increasing as time goes on. I want to synchronize an LED ( >probably two of them) with the beeps on the cassette tape. So the LED, with >each beep, would go on and off real quick, generating a strobe light sort >of effect. The rapidity of the beeps on the tape would in turn effect the >rapidity of the blinking of the LEDS. And if there was no sound on the tape >(except for background his), the LEDs would remain off. Please help! > > >  Thanks, > >    Dana  	Try looking in a Magizine called Radio Electronics, May 1992 issue, page 41.  There is a circuit for a Midi Light controller there.    -=- Andy -=-
Hi all,  I've been following this thread about jacob's ladder for a few weeks and I happened to come across one of the best project books that I've seen in a  while.  The book "Gadgeteer's Goldmine" by Gordon McComb offers over 55  excellent low cost projects including: Jacob's Ladder, tesla coils, plasma  spheres, a Van de Graaff generator, robots, an IR scope, and several laser  projects.  The instructions come with complete part lists, warnings and  diagrams.  For those of you who are interested in building any of the above  listed projects, you should seriously consider getting this book.  The  paperback version is only $19.95 too.  For those who want more information: Title: Gadgeteer's Goldmine!  55 Space-Age Projects Auth:  Gordon McComb Pub:   TAB Books CW:    1990 ISBN:  0-8306-8360-7 	0-8306-3360-X (paperback)  Price: $19.95 (paperback)   -Scott
>Could some kind soul post me the max power/voltage/current ratings of >2SC1096 and 2SA634 transistors, their conductance types and pinouts. >They are used in the sweep portion of a TV set.  2SC1096   Maximum Ratings:     VCBO = 40V     VCEO = 30V     IC   = 3A     PC   = 10W (T=25C)    ICBO max = 1uA   VCB = 30V   COB = 55pF    at Q-point VCE=5, IC=1A --> hfe = 100  2SA634   Maximum Ratings:     VCBO = -40V     VCEO = -30V     IC   = -3A     PC   = 10W (T=25C)    ICBO max = -1uA   VCB = -30V   COB = 75pF    at Q-point VCE = -5V, IC = -1A --> hfe = 100  That's all i can get from my data book, hope that helps.
Joseph Chiu (josephc@cco.caltech.edu) wrote: : sehari@iastate.edu (Babak Sehari) writes: :  : >Similarly, people usually use dB for dBm. Another common mistake is spelling : >``db'' instead of ``dB'' as you did in your article. See the ``B'' is for  : >``Bell'' company, the mother of AT&T and should be capitalized. :  : Thus, a deciBell (deci-, l., tenth of + Bell) is a fractional part of the  : original Bell.  For example, SouthWestern Bell is a deciBell.  Out of what hat did you pull this one?  dB is a ratio not an RBOC!          : And the measure of current, Amp, is actually named after both the AMP company : and the Amphenol company.  Both companies revolutionized electronics by : simulatenously realizing that the performance of connectors and sockets  : were affected by the amount of current running through the wires.  Sorry.  The unit for current is the AMPERE which is the name of a french-man named AMPERE who studied electrical current.  The term AMP is just an abbreviation of it.  The company AMP came after the AMPERE unit was already in use.    : The Ohmite company was the first to characterize resistances by numbers, thus : our use of the Ohms...  I don't know about this one, but it doesn't sound right.    :  : Alexander Graham Bell, actually, is where Bell came from...   Well you got one thing right! :  :  :  : Actually, Bel refers :  : >                          With highest regards, : >                               Babak   Sehari. :  : >--  : --  : Joseph Chiu        | josephc@cco.caltech.edu  "OS/2: You gotta get this thing!"  : MSC 380 - Caltech  |  : Pasadena, CA 91126 |   OS/2: The operating system of tomorrow, today. : +1 818 449 5457    |
I need to make a power supply that can take input from a  cigarette lighter in a car (12v dc) and drive 7.5 volts at up to 3.0 amps. I know enough to know that a simple voltage divider with two resistors won't do it right. Can such a thing be made from Radio-Shack-able parts without too much difficulty?  jps bf  p.s. I've looked for premade things like this at radio shack but none of it seems to go any higher than about 800mA.
In article <C5GE03.LIF@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes: >... Patent law says you can build anything >you want to, for your own personal noncommercial use...  I'm not up on the details of US patent law, but I think this is incorrect. There is a "reasonable use" exemption for *copyright*.  There is none for *patents*.  The exemptions from patent licensing are quite narrow; R&D work is exempt but personal use is not.  That is, it's okay to experiment with a patented idea, but not to put it to practical use (e.g. to improve your stereo), even if it's only your own private practical use.  Of course, it is unlikely that discreet personal use will ever be detected or that you will ever be sued over it.
Is there a fast 'n dirty way to kill the line spiking that occurs when an inductive load is turned on sometime other than at zero-crossing of the AC cycle?  A capacitor kludged in somehow, etc?  I've got a microcontroller that is running a bunch of valves and pumps in a big instrument washer, and almost everything is being switched with zero-crossing solid state relays, so that stuff stays "quiet", AC-wise. But there's one steam valve that gets turned on by a mechanical relay in the water tank fill/thermostat system, and it's not under control of my SSRs, and it does sometimes generate/radiate a spike that resets one of my peripheral chips.  My software times out and tries again, but I'd love to just tack in a magic spike-killing fix that would avoid having to do some major rewiring/redesign.  A varistor would help but might not be sufficient.  Ideas?
klink@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (steven.r.klinkner) writes:  > Can anybody recommend a good, application-oriented beginner's reference > to RF circuits?   >  > I am pretty good on theory & know what different types of modulation mean,  > but don't have a lot of practical experience.  A book detailing working > circuits of different types (modulation, power, frequency, what is legal, > what is not, et cetera), would be very helpful. >  > Thanks.  Well, you might try the A.R.R.L.'s license study guides. For example, my Advanced Class study guide has lots and lots of good RF and electronics theory in it. I would imagine the other books are good too.  Tony  ----------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Anthony S. Pelliccio, kd1nr/ae    // Yes, you read it right, the  // -- system @ garlic.sbs.com          // man who went from No-Code    // -----------------------------------// (Thhhppptt!) to Extra in     // -- Flame Retardent Sysadmin       // exactly one year!            // ------------------------------------------------------------------- -- This is a calm .sig! --
In article <klp.735603389@quark> klp@doe.carleton.ca (Ka Lun Pang) writes: > >I borrowed a VHS tape from a friend and it has a warning in the begining saying >that attempts to copy the tape will result in destroying the copy and the >original. I found this unbelievable as playing and recording are two different >processes. However, I've never seen this tape being sold anywhere so I don't  >want to take the chance even it's small. > >Anyone has experience in this kind of self-destructing video tapes? >  I have always thought that if I wanted to send the Police a tape with a ransom demand on it, or send CNN a video tape to see if they wanted to buy it, I would place a small magnet near the take-up spool so the tape would be erased as it was played. Who would think to check?
In article <1993Apr24.064907.22281@ennews.eas.asu.edu>, gsulliva@enuxha.eas.asu.edu (Glenn A Sullivan) writes...  >I designed and built hardware in 1988 that would output a logic level (from >a 567 tone detector) upon detecting a 500 microwatt LED 28 feet away. >Used a Motorola MRD360, biased linearly  in a DC-feedback loop to servo out >variations in sunlight (and 60Hz from lights). Used no lenses. >  >Allen Sullivan
in article  <735604750.28979.0@unix5.andrew.cmu.edu>,  Mark Yeck writes:  --------->  Hey, can someone clue me in on these and other weird types of amplifiers?  Just a brief intro to the concepts behind these would be cool.  I have the clues  on type A, B, and AB already and stuff, but these other ones are mentioned  occasionally and I dont know what they do.  I think type D is like a PWM scheme or something.  Thanx in advanced.  ----------> The whole point to these weird amplifier types is improved efficiency.  Class D amps *are* PWM (pulse width modulation) amps which work very much like switching power supplies. I think I've seen these things called "class S" before as well. They're capable of very high efficiencies, and would be suitable for very high power. I've yet to see anything like this used in an audiophile amp, though.  I've been trying to design a three-kilowatter for the last year (to be used as an inverter for an UPS), but have been having serious problems with layout parasitics (10 IRF 450's in parallel... any help  with a  do-able isolated drive ckt would be appreciated :) )   I'm not absolutely positive about this, but I beleive a 'class G' amp is one that operates off a variable- or switched power supply rail voltage. The Carver amps do something like this. They use some sort of phase-control circuit  (I do not fully understand its operation) to reduce the transformer size, and I beleive that is patented. I had an M400 apart (trying to fix) and found that it had three rail voltages that it switched between. I ran a simulation on PSPICE and found that the topology would greatly reduce power dissipation (heat) under large-signal conditions, or when driving reactive loads (which draw high current at the zero-voltage crossings).
In article <1993Apr23.105152.20155@news.cs.tut.fi>, kuusama@kaarne.cs.tut.fi (Kuusama Juha,,,VTT,) writes: > Not that the question is anything important, but I am still curious: > Why is that almost all printed circuit boards are green? I have seen > a few blue ones, but no red, yellow, company logo etc. Is there a > technical reason or could it be that the marketing "geniuses" have > not tought about it (yet)? > -- > Juha The color of the board shows the composition of it, hence the use of it.  Original and older boards were bakelite composition, and were brown. Phenolic (spelling) was a tan Most "non filled" fiberglass boards used in computers are green. Filled fiberglass is blue. Teflon is white.  As boards evolved more and more demands were made of them.  First boards were used mainly in audio circuitry.  Couldn't be used in high voltage or RF because it would arc and burn.  Most boards today are fiberglass, the type being chosen by its use and cost.    Boards in satellite and microwave communication are teflon (and ceramic) as the fiberglass, and other boards are conductive (they actually work more as a  capacitive dialectric, but the word conductive simplifies explaination) at the high frequencies.  Another printed circuit material used mainly in automotive and interconnections is a thin flexible (mostly mylar) material and is used to connect the front of the vehicle (etc) to the back instead of wiring harnesses.  Camcorders use this to intereconnect the boards inside where wires would be a nuisance.  Am working on a generator made by Hewlet Packard right now and the entire board is gold plated, boy it looks expensive!!!  Hope I got most of my facts right as I am working from memory of material read.  My education was pre-transister! --  73, Tom ================================================================================ Tom Wagner, Audio Visual Technician.  Malaspina College Nanaimo British Columbia (604)753-3245, Loc 2230  Fax:755-8742  Callsign:VE7GDA Weapon:.45 Kentucky Rifle Snail mail to:  Site Q4, C2.   RR#4, Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada, V9R 5X9
I know what the 68HC811E2 is all about, but I'm trying to figure out what the 68SEC811E2 is... specifically, what does the SEC stand for?
shaffer-wendy@yale.edu (Wendy Shaffer) writes:  >I'm trying to build a mixer for a friend of mine to run several things into >a single boom box.  I have a circuit that uses an op-amp powered by either a >couple of 9V batteries or using some kind of power supply.  But in a catalog >I was looking at recently, a "passive mixer" for guitar was advertised taht >doesn't appear to use any power at all.  Does anyone know what the circuit for >this would be, because then I could just adapt it for RCA jacks, and save my >friend and I alot of messing with batteries and plugs.  Thanks.  Well, the fastest, crudest mixer (aside from just physically connecting all your inputs together directly) is to run each signal through a  resistor to a common output.  The resistors give some isolation so the signal sources aren't driving directly into each other.   Taking a wild, seat-of-the-pants guess, I'd say that if you are mixing high-impedance sources like some dynamic mikes, electric guitar pickups, etc., your resistors ought to be maybe 5K - 10K or so.  If you are mixing line-level stuff or the outputs of a Walkman, or such, I'd go with 1K.  input 1 --/\/\/\/ -------------+--- output                                | input 2 --/\/\/\/\-------------+                                | input 3 --/\/\/\/\-------------+
Hello net.  I have a 386sx motherboard with the Phoenix BIOS, an on-board IDE controller port, and two on-board serial ports.  Unfortunately, I don't have a manual for this beast and I would like to be able to disable the IDE controller in order to use the MFM controller I have. The board says it is made in Korea and it uses the Chips Chipset.  If anyone can give me a clue as to how to go about configuring the board so as not to use the IDE controller, or how to go about finding out how to do it, their help would be greatly appreciated.   	Thank you in advance for your assistance. Please mail buhrow@nfbcal.org with your responses as my news feed is rather tenuous. Thank you very much! -Brian <buhrow@nfbcal.org>
Not that the question is anything important, but I am still curious: Why is that almost all printed circuit boards are green? I have seen a few blue ones, but no red, yellow, company logo etc. Is there a technical reason or could it be that the marketing "geniuses" have not tought about it (yet)?
I'm no expert at UPS's, but you said something that made it sound like you didn't realize something.  On a typical UPS (well, on ours, anyway), there is NO switchover from AC to DC.  All the protected equipment is ALWAYS running from the batteries (via an inverter), with the usual  condition of also having them on charge.  If the power fails, big deal -  the computers never see it (until the batteries start to droop, but  there's something like 60 car-sized batteries in that cabinet, so it  takes a while).  If you were gonna run the guts on straight DC instead of an inverter, why not do it all the time?  Then there'd be no switchover to screw things up, and no having to sense the failure fast.  Just keep the DC on charge when the power is on, and it'll be there in zero time when you "need" it.
oops, that's KNX 1070. KNBR is up in 'Frisco, and down at 680.
stephen@dogmatix.inmos.co.uk (Stephen Collyer) writes: >|> The same thing happens to my car (Citroen 2CV) -- damp gets under the >|> bonnet (US: "hood") and shorts the spark-plugs to earth so it won't start. >|>  >|> The solution (for the car) is to clean the plug leads and spray with >|> WD-40 (moisture repellant).  If damp *is* the problem, then storing the   >Well, this is off-topic, but back in the days when I used to drive bangers >I never found WD-40 to do anything that wiping with a dry cloth did'nt do. >I think the effectiveness of WD-40 is a myth invented by the guy who owns >the company.  Back in high school I used to work for a detailing company, and one of the services we offered was an engine cleaning (remove all that oil BEFORE you sell the car...  ;-}). Unfortunately, we did not have a high pressure washer so we would use one several miles from the shop. On more than one occasion after washing the engine, it would not start as water would have gotten under the distributor (I would put a plastic bag around it to try and minimize this), around the spark plug wires, etc and it would be nearly IMPOSSIBLE to try and wipe all these areas down with a dry rag. The usual solution was to carry a can of WD-40, and when the car wouldn't start to spray all the likely areas and it would then start on the very first time.  It may be a myth, but it certainly kept me from being stranded at a car wash...  --
Device........ LT1839   @ IC (mA)..... 50 V(BR)CEO (V).. 70       CCB (pF)...... 2.5 V(BR)CBO (V).. 120      VCE (V)....... 15 IC (mA) max... 300      Polarity...... NPN hFE min....... 20       Package....... 79-04 hFE max....... 60       Material...... Metal fT (GHz)...... 1        Price (100+)..  Device........ LT5839   @ IC (mA)..... 60 V(BR)CEO (V).. 65       CCB (pF)...... 1.5 V(BR)CBO (V).. 80       VCE (V)....... 10 IC (mA) max... 300      Polarity...... PNP hFE min....... 15       Package....... 79-04 hFE max....... 60       Material...... Metal fT (GHz)...... 1.5      Price (100+).. @ VCE (V)..... 10  Anyone know of a source for these parts (other than straight from Motorolla)?  I need 4 Lt1839's and 2 Lt5839 I've tried standard and they said "We are out!"                  Stephen Cyberman@Toz.Buffalo.NY.US              Mangled on Fri  04-16-1993  at 13:50:28  ... If there's one thing I can't stand, it's intolerance.
Hi all,  I am looking for a new oscilloscope (BK 1541-B, it looks like, Goldstar OS904S if I can find one cheap enough) and would like suggestions on a low-priced source for them.  (Currently, BTW, Fry's electronics in Los Angeles has the 1541-B for $598,  the best price I've seen overall for now - They carry the GS OS902S for   $490, but I need the 904S because of the 40 MHz B/W)  Thanks all.
In article <23321@mindlink.bc.ca> Sean_Oliver@mindlink.bc.ca (Sean Oliver) writes: >> Joseph Mich Krzeszewsk writes: >>         890 the phone company will read the number of the phone you are on > >Where I live, I use BCTEL. The number to dial is 211 for the same result. >  In NY City, the number to dial is 958... It seems to be different in different areas.
I have 2 OMTI 3527 SCSI adapters for sale.  These make an ST-506 RLL drive look like a SCSI disk drive.  Each adapter will support two RLL drives.  I have used this model OMTI adapter with my Amiga A500 and a C-Ltd SCSI host adapter without problems. I'm selling these because I got them about the same time I decided to sell instead of expand my Amiga so I have never even used them.  I can't guarantee they will work with every SCSI host adapter.  They are essentially new in box. I paid $150/ea, make me an offer.
In article <1993Apr26.210417.2984@socrates.umd.edu> johng@socrates.umd.edu (John Gustafson) writes: >ruck@beach.cis.ufl.edu (John Ruckstuhl) writes:  >>I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know what solvent I should  >>use to clean duct-tape adhesive from carpet?   I use WD-40.   >May I tease out a sub-thread from this discussion?  >Can you all please tell me how to remove  the stickers from new houses' >appliances and outdoor lampposts?  Especially the lamppost, right on >the glass.  Isn't there something you can rub into stuck-on labels that >will release them from their death-grip on glass or other hard surfaces?  >Many thanks for any help.     Try WD-40.      Xavier
According to my TI databook, the pinouts for the TIL311 display are as follows:    Pin 1 - LED supply voltage  Pin 2 - Latch data input B  Pin 3 - Latch data input A  Pin 4 - Left decimal point cathode  Pin 5 - Latch strobe input  Pin 6 - Omitted  Pin 7 - Common ground  Pin 8 - Blanking input  Pin 9 - Omitted   Pin 10 - Right decimal point cathode  Pin 11 - Omitted  Pin 12 - Latch data input D  Pin 13 - Latch data input C  Pin 14 - Logic supply voltage, Vcc   The logic supply voltage is 5V @ 60-90mA. The LED supply is also 5V, but it need not be particularly well regulated. The LED drivers on the chip use a constant current source, so LED intensity is not affected by the supply voltage.    --