waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
Just thought I would add $0.02 to DeskJet thread. I got my first one in college about 5 or so years ago.  	I've been a happy HP user of the DeskWriter for Macintosh for past 5 years. I got one just a few months after their release. And I got software revision 1.0a (now I'm up to rev. 3.1. Our family (sister and father) have each purchased their own DW's after seeing mine go for one year unscathed (their stuck to their trusty ImageWriter II's). The original DW has gone for 5 years at moderate personal use. I would say that it has gone through at least 15,000 sheets, and around one (small) ink cartridge every 3 months or so.  	My brother might take this DW now (I'm probably gonna give it to him), and I am looking to upgrade to a color DW. The chief advantages/disadvantages I've found over the years are:  Advantages:	Quick (2-3 ppm), Quiet (roomate can sleep while it's printing), AppleTalk Networkable (unfortunately the original wasn't, so look out if you buy used. I rewired our home with phonenet AppleTalk connectors, and while home, we can all use my dad's one DW!), and cheap (now run ~$300). BTW, you can upgrade older DW's to color or for appletalk, I dunno if HP still does the upgrades, but I received many offers (I just didn't ned it however). Also, crisp laser-quality output is a wonder (used to really impress those ImageWriter Dot-Matrix people so much so, that I had to charge $0.25 per sheet to stop my college dorm neighbors from bothering me at all hours of the night....)  Disadvantages.	Ink used to be hard to find, and wasn't cheap, and wasn't originally water-proof. While HP has done wonders with the ink (I dunno if it's still toxic), it is still subjet to smearing and running (if you run around in the damp Boston rain, and get your bookbag completely soaked). Ink now runs about $14-$15 for small carts (I get mine from Elek-Tek in Chicago, I think they're now down to $12). The ink carts used to say they're dated for only 6 months, but I don't think they say so anymore. We stick to a 4 month supply (of about 3 carts). We use cheap Hammerhill Laser Print paper (after fooling for a long time. Laser/Xerox paper is also good). Smearing doesn't happen, unless you have a brand new ink cart and you grab the paper and smudge it all over as soon as it comes out of the machine. Other disadvantages are : No Postscript (this can be an advantage in speed, usually). Ways around this are Ghostscript or Freedom of Press software solutions. I bet HP probably has a PS prototype inkjet, but they won't release it for fear of hurting LJ sales.  In the end, the primary advantages of laser are true postscript (unless you go for cheap lasers), and fused toner (no smearing, even when soaking in water). Lasers are slightly sharper, but the only instance where I needed precise layouts was Printed Circuit Board Transparencies for PhotoEtching. I found a Textronix color Phaser Postscript (Thermal Wax Transfer) to work the best to make PCB negatives directly onto a transparency.
AllThe Devil ReincarnateSWR meter for CB radios  TD>From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate) TD>Organization: CDAC, WA TD>What TD>is a good choice for a CB? 1/4 or 1/8 wave? TD>  I read the installation instructions on a 1/4 wave antenna, TD>and they suggested that I use an SWR to tune it at channel 12 TD>and channel 32 for a minimum reading.  Question is, why channel TD>12 and 32?  The best antenna is one that will let out the most wave (probably not the  best explanation, but the rest makes sense) A one wave will cancell itself  out (BTW no such beastie) . The best is a 1/2 wave antenna, followed by  1/4, then 1/8 etc.  As for SWRing in, what you actually do is trim the antenna to the correct  length for the specific wavelength you will be transmitting on. Since the  wavelength varies with the channel you use, then it's recommended to SWR  in using the middle channel of those you are going to use. Anyway in the beginning of CB's, all new antennas had to be SWR'ed in,  nowdays manufactures trim the antennas almost spot on, so that there's not  much point in SWRing. Then again you may be a fanatic and whish to do it  anyway.
g92m3062@alpha.ru.ac.za (Brad Meier) writes:  > Hi, I'm looking for a circuit, that is called a "Jacob's Ladder". > This little box is usually seen in sci-fi movies.  It consists of  > two curves of wire protruding into the air, with little blue sparks > starting at their base (where the two wires are closer to each other), > moving up the wires to the top, and ending in a small crackling noise.  >  > Could anyone supply me with the schematic for the innards of this box? >  > Thanks in advance > Mike >  > (Please reply by email to g90k3853@alpha.ru.ac.za) >  > -- >  |  / |  | ~|~ /~~\  |  | ~|~ /~~\  |~~\  /~~\         The KnightOrc  >  |/   |\ |  | |   __ |__|  | |    | |__/ |         g92m3062@hippo.ru.ac.za >  |\   | \|  | |    | |  |  | |    | |  | |      "When it's over I'll go home, >  |  \ |  | _|_ \__/  |  |  |  \__/  |  |  \__/    until then, I stay!" - Me            I'd like any accumulated information on this as well please.                   Thanks.   _________________________________________         _____                                |    |     |   |                           |  =========== |    Baden de Bari          |   | o   o |  |                           |   |   ^   |  | baden@sys6626.bison.ca    |   |  {-}  |  | baden@inqmind.bison.ca    |    \_____/   |                           |
[ Article crossposted from comp.windows.ms ] [ Author was Kevin Routh ] [ Posted on 19 Apr 1993 12:35:55 GMT ]  For your information:  I hooked up my ImageWriter I to my COM1 serial port and used the C-Itoh 8510 driver in Windows 3.1.  The cable I am using is a straight-thru cable connected to a Null Modem Adapter I got at Radio Shack (catalog #26-1496a) for $4.95.  It seems to work fine with both DOS and Windows. I used the following command in DOS  	C:\DOS\mode COM1:9600,n,8,1,p  and set up the port the same way in the Windows Ports setup.  the Null Modem connections are as follows:  	1	to	1 	2	to	3 	3	to	2 	4	to	5 	5	to	4 	6+8	to	20 	20	to	6+8 	7	to	7  I printed from several applications and all seems OK.    --  Kevin C. Routh                     Internet:    krouth@slee01.srl.ford.com Ford Electronics                   IBMmail (PROFS):               USFMCTMF ELD IC Engineering 17000 Rotunda Drive, B-121         Voice mail:              (313) 337-5136 Dearborn, MI  48121-6010           Facsimile:               (313) 248-6244    -- Kevin C. Routh                     Internet:    krouth@slee01.srl.ford.com Ford Electronics                   IBMmail (PROFS):               USFMCTMF ELD IC Engineering 17000 Rotunda Drive, B-121         Voice mail:              (313) 337-5136 Dearborn, MI  48121-6010           Facsimile:               (313) 248-6244
jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines) writes: >	I was wondering if people had any good uses for old >256k SIMMs...  So, if you have an inovative use (or want to buy >some SIMMs  8-) ), I would be very interested in hearing >about it.  About a month ago there was a photo posted on alt.binaries.pictures.misc of a 17.5-inch Northern Pike which had been caught on a lure made of 256K SIMMs.  --
In article <1993Apr16.105738.20864@hippo.ru.ac.za> webb@itu1 (90-29265  Webber  AH) writes: > ...stuff deleted... > >I was also sceptical about the amps being built in the far-east >  or where-ever.  But if you look in the amp and see what components >  they use and how it was designed, you can easily see why the >  amplifiers sound so brilliant.  Good point...also, I wouldn't be surprised that the components they use off-shore are of inferior quality.  As long as it was properly designed and robust, premium components are used, it shouldn't matter where it is assembled.  >I cannot see why people say the amplifier won't last - not with >  those quality components inside.  Sure the amp runs very fairly >  hot - but that's how you get an amp to sound incredibly good.  An amp that runs hot has no bearing on how it's gonna sound. The amp you have probably is running Class-A the whole day.  Actually, I'd be wary of excessively hot amps, 'cauz even though the components inside may be rated to run that way, excessive  heat will dramatically shorten the life of *any* electronic component regardless of quality.  In fact, an amp that does run hot to the touch is because either the engineer or manufacturer of that amp wanted to skimp on heatsinking or cooling to save costs!  Hmmmmm....  aaron
Why are circuit boards green?  The material used to make them goes by two names.  If it is used to make circuit boards it is called FR-4.  The same material is used in the cryogenics industrya and marine industries as a structural material and is called G-10.  FR-4 and G-10 are both green.  They are not green because of a solder masking agent.  The basic ingredients are a clear epoxy resin and glass fibers.  I am not sure what the specs are on the resin, but if you are really curious you can call NEMA (National Electronics Manufacturing Association) or Ciba Geigy (a major manufacturer of epoxy resins) to find out.  As an aside, I occasionally mix clear epoxy and glass microsphres to cast small structures for cryogenics experiments. The proportions of glass to epoxy are about the same as in G-10.  They are the same green color.
In article <babb-280493102418@larc.sdsu.edu>, babb@sciences.sdsu.edu (J. Babb) writes: > RE: Ultrasonic pest repelling devices. The ones I've seen use piezoelectric > transducers driven by a 35-85 KHz swept oscillator. Is there evidence that > insects are actually repelled by these devices? Can anybody cite gov't > pubs, or independent lab studies? >  > I saw another device that supposedly repels pests by "altering the > electro-magnetic field of your house wiring". I suppose they capacitively > couple a hi freq signal to the AC wiring. And this is supposed to repel > pests???? How? By magnestriction of the wiring? I DONT THINK SO.  >   I've been wondering about this myself.  The house wiring thing is really hokey.  There is no doubt that high pressure ultrasound is annoying, but to whom?  Given that these devices have been advertised to be effective against everything from insects to rodents to nasty dogs, what is to say that my insect repeller won't just annnoy my dog and give me headaches?  Could there be that much selectivity in frequencies?  Have there been ANY studies on the effects of various pressure levels, bands, and sweep patterns on various life forms?  And how effective could they be?  I certainly would not want to tell anyone that they are safe from nasty dogs because they were carrying a piezoelectric buzzer...  >  > Jeff Babb > babb@sciences.sdsu.edu   babb@ucssun1.sdsu.edu > Programmer, SDSU - LARC
Alltronics in San Jose (408) 943-9773 sells the Votrax Sc-01 Speech Synthesis  chip for about $5.00. Also I noticed that Radio Shack sells the ISD chip which  will store small amounts of digitized speech.
{Kris Gleason} said    "Re: what to do with old 2"       to <All> on 04-15-93  11:02  KG> Yeah... keychains.  I have seen 64K simms with a silver   KG> keyring attached, big seller at the computer store.  I'm  KG> sure you could find a bunch of geeks^H^H^H^H^H^H computer  KG> science majors around that would buy them for $10.  Maybe  KG> $15, if you're lucky.      Untrue they would check JDR first and say 5.  That's how much     they are worth AT MOST.  My guess is they are worth 1 buck     a peice.                  Stephen Cyberman@Toz.Buffalo.NY.US              Mangled on Sat  04-17-1993  at 20:26:37
> > Can anyone tell me where it is possible to purchase controls found > > on most arcade style games.  Many projects I am working on would > > be greatly augmented if I could implement them.  Thanx in advance.  >HAP controls just outside Chicago sells these. >						Andrew MacRae  Actually, it's HAPP, and some of their equipment can be found in the  Parts Express catalog (1-800-338-0531).  They show switches for $2, joysticks for $13 and trackballs for $80.  They also have pinball parts.  Good luck.
In article <C5wIEE.Gn3@ms.uky.edu> msunde01@mik.uky.edu writes:  >> Hopefully this should sort it all out .... not bad for 9 quid (normally >                                                         ^^^^^^ >Pardon my ignorance of foreign currency and exchange rates, but what is a   >quid, how does it relate to the British Pound (or whatever it's called)   >and what is that in American Dollars??? :-) k Sorry ... should have used correct terminology  1 Quid = 1 Knicker = 1.54 approx U.S. Dollars   The Terry Pratchett Book "Good Omens" contains an adequate explanation of the rather strange UK money system, past and present for "Americans,  Tibetans, and other alien species" :-)
This may sound like a simple-minded question, but this is the first time I've ever had a need for this:  I've been designing some relatively simple chip circuits based on things like photoresistors (you know, no light to photoresistor, emit a logic high, etc.).  Anyway, I've got some servos lying around, and I wanted to do some things with them using digital logic.  I know all about having to pulse the signal and everything, I just have one problem:  I'm assuming I need a negative (yes, negative) logic high to get the thing to turn in the direction  opposite the direction it would turn under normal logic high.  Is a negative logic high (I've seen this in schematics) the same thing as an active low, or what?  I'm not using a bi-polar power source, so how would I get a negative logic high out of this thing?  I need to have all three signals available:  Logic high, logic low, and negative logic high.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Also, please reply via email, as I never seem to have time to read this (or any other) group lately.  Thanks much, -mark
In <1993Apr19.003800.18288@worak.kaist.ac.kr> hjkim@hyowon.pusan.ac.kr writes:
I'm wondering if I can tote my American touch tone phone around with me to Sweden and Germany.  It's DC powered, and I can buy a special adapter for that in Europe.  The question is if the general electronics work the same.  I can buy a different wall plug and refit it (I'm sure I'd have to), but would that do the trick?
>   Does anybody out there have one of those food dehydrators I've been seeing > all over late-night TV recently? I was wondering if they use forced air, heat, > or both. If there's heat involved, anybody know what temperature they run at? > My wife would like one and I'm not inclined to pay >$100.00 for a box, a fan > and a heater. Seems to me you should be able to throw a dehydrator together > for just a few bucks. Heck, the technology is only what? 1,000 years old?  ----------
Write a good manual to go with the software.  The hassle of photocopying the manual is offset by simplicity of purchasing the package for only $15.  Also, consider offering an inexpensive but attractive perc for registered users.  For instance, a coffee mug.  You could produce and mail the incentive for a couple of dollars, so consider pricing the product at $17.95.  You're lucky if only 20% of the instances of your program in use are non-licensed users.  The best approach is to estimate your loss and accomodate that into your price structure.  Sure it hurts legitimate users, but too bad. Retailers have to charge off loss to shoplifters onto paying customers; the software industry is the same.  Unless your product is exceptionally unique, using an ostensibly copy-proof disk will just send your customers to the competetion.
Has anyone got an active filter design program that runs on an IBM PC ??  Something that will easily let me specify bandpass filter parameters, and it will give me the appropriate component values ??  It has to be public domain,  if anyone has one, could you mail it to me.  Thanks in advance,  Scott u9035710@wraith.cs.uow.edu.au
In article <1993Apr17.204351.2256@aber.ac.uk> cjp1@aber.ac.uk (Christopher John Powell) writes:  [deletions]  >It appears to use two balanced-line connections, but what each connection >corresponds to I know not. One connection is a 30-way IDC, the other a >60-way IDC.  Sounds like it is an SMD interface to me, not being at work now to actually count pins.  there are two varients, SMD  and SMDC (I think), only minor differences between them.  Widely used prior to the advent of SCSI for large drives (or all drives) on minis (and mainframes(?) no experience on those).
PLease take these and use them.  Take advantage of me... I really don't know what they are worth.  Qty 2  -  Canoga Perkins Fiber Optic Modems, Model 2250, RS-422           Interface, appear new.  I have powered up but that's all,           I have not used them and I cannot tell you whether they           work or not.                                      Make Offer.........  Qty 1 -   ISC Datacom RF Modem, Model 1056-TX1-RX5-SM-120, Interface           RS-449, Internal Fan, powers up fine but otherwise condition           unknown, Phone # for the company is 408-747-0300.                                   Make Offer ............  Qty 1 -   Motorola UDS  212 A/D  Modem, RS-232 interface appears to work           but I have not and cannot check it.                                     Make Offer  .............  Thanks and please buy this stuff or it goes out the door
Greetings. I've recently decided to chuck the linear regulators 	and learn the "black magic" art of switching power supplies... 	(before anyone flames me, I KNOW, both have their place :-)  	Anyways, I've built the basic up & down converters with pretty 	good results (>80% efficiency) but I'm running into problems 	when I try to design & build anything that puts out serious 	amps... I know it can be done (I have some 5V@200A guts on my 	bench) but something puzzles me: I'm using a simple choke as  	the storage element (basicly a toroid with a single winding) 	but ALL commercial models use transformers with MANY windings. 	I traced a few and they seem to use some of the winding for 	the usual error/feedback but some of the others seem to loose 	me... What are they for? Better than that, anyone have a full 	schematic for one of these that I could get a copy of? I'd 	love to see how they manage to squeeze out so much from such 	low volume :-)  	My other problems (in getting high amps & good efficiency) are 	1) Lack of sources of ideal components (calculated) and 2) 	Limited knowledge of the whole topic... I'm doing this on my 	own (not school) mind you (in fact, I have yet to take any 	course that covers transistors ;-)  	So, is the answer to #1 the accumulation of dead commercial 	models and truning into a scavanger (not that it's not what 	I'm doing now...) and #2 getting & understanding schematics 	and a bit more of the [mind-boggling] theory?   	Take care.  	P.S. My goal is 12V @ ~25A in (car battery) -> 250VAC out and 	(on the other end) 250V -> +5VDC @ 5A, -5V @ 1A, +12VDC @8A 	and -12VDC @1A... the distance between the two will be 	more than 100 feet (of 14-16 gauge) but less than 300 feet. 	Would like to have a working model in a year or so... :-)  	(Do I have a chance to make it?)
gstovall@crchh67.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Greg Stovall) writes: >Anyway, over the weekend, I was resting on the sofa (in between chores), >and noticed that I briefly picked up what sounded like ham radio traffic >over my stereo and television, even though both were off.  Also, all the >touch sensitive lights in my house start going wacko, cycling through  >their four brightness states.  >I presume that some ham operator with an illegal amplifier drove past >my house (I live on a busy thoroughfare); would this be a correct presumption? >What kind of power must he be putting out to cause the effects?   >The affected equipment is about 100 feet from the road...  Hams can legally run up to 1500 watts.  It is very unlikely, however, that a ham would be running that kind of power from a car.  Ham rigs for cars put out around 100 watts.  It is possible that a 100 watt radio would cause interference to consumer electronic 100 feet  away.  Most TVs, stereos, and VCRs have very poor RF shielding. If you experience the problem frequently, it may be  caused by a ham, CBer, or other radio operator in a base station nearby.    The interference may have been caused by a radio  transmitter used for other purposes, such as police, fire, etc.  If you heard voices over your stereo, I think you are correct in assuming that the source is an RF transmitter.  If you have frequent trouble, you may want to try the RF ferrite chokes available at Radio Shack.  The interference is probably being picked up by your speaker wires, and those chokes can be installed on the wires very easily (without cutting them). Good instructions are included with the chokes. If that does not solve the problem, you may want to search your neighborhood for a radio operator.  Look for antennas on the roof or car.  Talk to him/her about your problem.  There are things a radio operator can do to reduce interference.  --
In <1993Apr21.085848.12704W@lumina.edb.tih.no> ketil@edb.tih.no (Ketil Albertsen,TIH) writes:  >May we interpret this as an offer to volunteer as editor for a >"Copy protection FAQ" ? I am quite sure that I am not alone welcoming such >an initiative! *I* will volunteer to ask some of the questions, if you will >provide the answers :-)   Ok, here could be the first question or answer or something:  Q: I want to copyprotect a program I wrote.  How should I do it? A: You would be wise not to copyprotect that program.  You see, those     people that wants to get a cracked copy of your program will go to     various length to crack your program, and some of those crackers     are good, and know the common tricks.    So, the copy protection wouldn't stop those.    Ok, then.  What about legitimate users?  Copy protection can be a hassle    for legitimate users, and can hinder them in their work, expecially    if there is some "key" item that can get lost.    So, the copy protection wouldn't help much of the legitimate users, but    would make life somewhat of a misery for them.    (This is my opinion, and I speak as a legitimate user :-) You are of course free to have your opinion about this subject....
In article <1993Apr14.174857.28314@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> dje@bmw535.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Don Eilenberger) writes: }In article <1993Apr14.153740.18542@nimbus.com>, jimiii@nimbus.com (Jim Warford) writes:  }|>  There are two simple procedures for alterating any odometer. }|>  }|> 1. Mechanical driven odometer: }|>     Remove the speedo cable from the transmission. }|>     Attach a drill and run at max speed until the speedo turns over. }|>     Continue until the desired mileage is reached. }|>  }|> 2. Electronically driven odometer: }|>     Remove the sensor wire from the sensor. }|>     Attach the Calibration out signal from an Oscope to the wire. }|>     Run until the speedo turns over and attains the desired mileage. } }Dear Faster.. I kinda wonder.. have you ever tried version 2? On what? }Since the sensor wire on a BMW feeds also into the computer.. and we }don't know what signal voltage is expected from it.. bad things }*could* happen... also since we don't know the pulse rate, we }may damage the analog part of the speedo (yes.. BMW uses a combined }instrument.. speed in analog, trip and total milage is digital) with }the needle pegged up against the 160MPH stop.. } }Just a thought...  You've got the oscilliscope, so you connect it up to the sensor wire and measure this stuff.  That way you know what it expects.
I just got a copy of spice 5.2. I would like to know if there are any published books on the market yet and where I could get one. I would appreciate any help. Thank You