waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
verity@jack.sns.com (Steve Verity) writes:  >  >  > I am trying to build a circuit that detects the presence of video (Vs. > a blank screen) by monitoring the R,G, and B outputs of a graphics > card.  It should be able to detect the presence of a single pixel at > 65 MHz, which would mean detecting a 15 NS pulse.  It should also be > able to tell the difference between a blank screen (about 300 mv) > and a dim screen (say, around 310 mv).  Oh yes, it also needs to be > cheap.   >  > My first circuit was a dismal failure.  I used 3 compariators; each > compariator had the + input going to one of the guns, the - input > went to a reference created by a voltage divider(a potentiometer). >  > The first problem was that the compariator was way too slow.. I > needed to get several pixels in a row before it would fire the > compariators, so I could have a whole screen full of text, but my >  > The second problem is that there was more noise on the reference then > the smallest difference between a blank screen and a dim screen.  In > fact the difference between completely black and completely white is > only 650 mv.  I am wondering if I am going to have to amplify the > video signals to make this work.   >  > There are faster compariators, but they are expensive, and require  > split supplies.   I would need to replace my .49 quad compariator > with three 1.89 compariators, and create a whole new power supply > circuit.   >  > At this point, I think what I need is some sort of transistor > circuit.  Transistors are fast and cheap and should do the trick... >  > Unfortunately, I am way out of my league when It comes to designing > transistor circuits, so I am appealing to the net for help.  Any > ideas, tips, circuits, pointers, references, etc. would be greatly > appreciated.   >  > Oh yes, I only sample the output of this thing every second or so, so > I don't need a fast response time at all, however, I haven't found a > way to take advantage of that fact. >  > Thanks a lot for any help anybody might be able to give. Of course, > you will have my undying gratitude. >  >  > Steve Verity >  >  >  >  > --  > ..........>.........>........>......>...>...>..>..>..>..>.>.>.>>>>>>>>+ .    > Steve Verity                  +   +             ...Maxed on MIDI        + . >                                     +      verity@jack.sns.com      + ..   +  IN ORDER to get the 15 nS response time you need, you are better off  going to an ECL slicer which can run off a single +5 or -5.2 V supply,  you just need to bias or do some level shifting perhaps to get it in the  range. Check out the ECL 10K books for a simple cheap solution.
In article <1r3j2lINNf13@clover.csv.warwick.ac.uk> csulo@csv.warwick.ac.uk   (Mr M J Brown) writes: >  > Hopefully this should sort it all out .... not bad for 9 quid (normally                                                          ^^^^^^  Pardon my ignorance of foreign currency and exchange rates, but what is a   quid, how does it relate to the British Pound (or whatever it's called)   and what is that in American Dollars??? :-)  Thanks!
Hey, can someone clue me in on these and other weird types of amplifiers?  Just a brief intro to the concepts behind these would be cool.  I have the clues  on type A, B, and AB already and stuff, but these other ones are mentioned  occasionally and I dont know what they do.  I think type D is like a PWM scheme or something.  Thanx in advanced.
AllMartin MccormickWhat's Exactly in a Flour  MM>From: martin@datacomm.ucc.okstate.edu (Martin McCormick) MM>Organization: Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, OK MM>	What sort of lamp is the little glass bulb found inside the  starter? MM>It sort of reminds me of a NE2 neon lamp.  Starters appear open when m MM>with an Ohm meter so the little lamp is either a neon or has a capacit MM>in series with it. MM>  MM>	I have seen these things all my life, but never read a really good MM>description of what is happening inside that little can.  Do you know what a bi-metallic strip is? Just in case: it is two strips of different metals bonded together, which  when heated bend to one side (check out the blinker globe in your  christmas tree lights).  So when you turn on the power, this causes the bulb to work like a neon,  heating up and shorting out, thus providing a loop to power the heaters in  the main tube. When the tube fires, insufficient current runs through the  starter to keep the heat up and the bi-metalic strip straightens out  (O/C).  BTW, I too thought that they were nothing more than a small neon, so one  day when the neon in my sisters digital (flip the metal squares type)  clock broke (flimsy leads), I replaced it with one from a starter. Well  powering up made a bit of a mess of the clock!
In article <WD.93Apr26122020@sam.cs.tu-berlin.de> wd@cs.tu-berlin.de (Wolfgang Diestelkamp) writes: >Otherwise, it is technically no problem to connect a foreign >phone to either the German or Swedish phone system. >OTOH neither you nor I would ever try that, as it is of course >illegal.  Oh yes, the good ol' deutsche Bundespost.  Shortly after moving to Germany, someone told me that "POST" is an acronym for the "Public Organization for the Suppression of Technology".  Stimmt, oder?  I miss a lot of things about Germany (yes, including the Bier vending machines at work that were SUBSIDIZED by the firm), but the phone system is not one of them.
For some time I've been thinking about the possiblity of starting a group where scientific articles can be published (or perhaps just summaries). Possible advantages would be: * Free disribution * Fast acceptance * Online discussion between authers and readers  This would be possible with one group with a moderator for publishing the articles and one perhaps without for discussion.  The best thing would be if all the articles would be in a standard format which would make it possible to print or view the documents camera ready. Perhaps Postscript or Rich Text Format?  But how do you start a new group? Anyone interrested?
In article <1qevrf$4t@hpscit.sc.hp.com>  writes: >  > As is typical nowadaze, you will probably have to do somebody else's job > for them. Although this shouldn't be needed, you might take a few minutes > to wander around the neighborhood with an HT sniffing for cable leakage > on your freq. after shutting down your system for a while.  >  > If you are fortunate enough to the find the hole, call the cable company and > get the highest link in the chain of command you can. Explain the problem, > whose job it really is to maintain THEIR equipment, and how much of a nice > guy you are to have tracked down THEIR problem for them. >  > You may have been lucky and made a new contact that could be helpful in the > future. >  > You should always try the 'honey' approach before bringing out the > Jack Nicholson impressions.....  >:-) >  > This has worked for me in the past with the power company when tring to  > find loose/noisy high voltage lines/hardware. Only once did I have to > tell them I was narrowing the problem down to a specific pole by bumping > a whole line of poles with my car. Got 'em out there THAT NIGHT. And, they > didn't have to meet Jack! >  > As a disclaimer, THEIR method for finding loose hardware was usually > whacking the poles with a huge sledgehammer after their high tech arc- > finding 'scope couldn't find the problem. >  >  >  > Bill > wb6 rotten zucchini garden  Here in switzerland, the situation is exactly the same. The cable tv companies   even tried to stop amateur radio in switzerland in the beginning of cable   tv(they seem to be too stupid to know anything about international frequency   conferences or so). Even today, they use the cheapest possible coax running   into problems they can't solve anymore. As Bill noted, the only way is to look   for a solution with the neighbours *BEFORE* calling for the cable tv guys or   the fcc. The chance to find neighbours with some sense for reason is by far   bigger than with these people (especially the first ones). As anywhere in an   administration people don't like, if You tell them to work for the money they   get... The problem is, that radio amateurs don't have the power to put trough their   rights in all cases. So let's hope they start soon with optical fibers and get   out of our freqencies.   Cheers   Robert  (HB9NBY)
I don't know much about phones in Germany, but this is what I know: I bought a phone in the U.S. for my mother who lives in Bratislava, Slovakia and it works just fine. The problem is they don't have wall jacks like we do here. There is a wire without any jack at the end sticking out of the wall. So you need to connect the wires (I'm not sure if they have wall jacks in Western Europe - they may). Hope this helps. Dagmar kniha@carson.u.washington.edu
I was wondering, since I've got a few fax machine scanners  intact, if they could be integrated to the pc environment as a  mono-scanner?  If so, where to start?!                   Thanks.       _________________________________________________   Inspiration  |   ___                             |   comes to     |  \   o  baden@sys6626.bison.mb.ca |   those who    | (  ^  ) baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca |   seek the     |   /-\      =] Baden de Bari [=    |   unknown.     |                                   |
In article <1993Apr21.125530.18387@texhrc.uucp> pyeatt@Texaco.com (Larry D. Pyeatt) writes: >I had a catalog with membrane keypads, but I dunno what >happened to it, and it was so long ago that I forget the >name of the company.  Anyway, you could make your own >legend and slip it behind the bezel.  Really nice and  >reasonably priced.  Can anyone tell me where to get some >more of these critters?  For some reason the name Grayhill springs to mind -- saw something like that in a Grayhill catalog, along with options for custom printed overlays and a neat little electroluuminescent backing that would make the whole shebang glow a nice shade of green ..  mighty handy if you're trying to key a door combination in the dark and don't want to TURN ON THE &%#$!! LIGHT ..
mcole@spock (COLE) writes:  >I would like to experiment with the INTEL 8051 family.  Does anyone out   >there know of any good FTP sites that might have compiliers, assemblers,   >etc.?  Try lyman.pppl.gov -- /pub/8051
Tony Kidson (tony@morgan.demon.co.uk) wrote: : In article <oHZs2B2w164w@k5qwb.lonestar.org> lrk@k5qwb.lonestar.org writes: :  : >mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes: : > : >> In article <1ptolq$p7e@werple.apana.org.au> petert@zikzak.apana.org.au (Peter : >> > : >> >Just a thought of mine here: : >> >Since an on-hook line is aprox 48-50V, and off-hook it usually drops below 1 : >> >How about an LED in series with a zener say around 30V. : >> >On-hook = LED on : >> >Off-hook = LED off. : >> >Would this work? If anyone tries/tried it, please let me know. : >> : >> Aye, there's the rub -- if you draw enough current to light an LED, the : >> equipment at the phone company will think you've gone off hook. : >> In the on-hook state you're not supposed to draw current. : > : >Which means you should just use your Digital VoltMeter. You can use an : >old VOM but the phone company equipment can detect that and might think : >there's something wrong with the cable. : > :  : Look Guys, what's the problem here?  If you want a light that goes on when  : the 'phone is *Off* hook, all you need it to run it in *series* with the  : line, as I mentioned in my previous post.  If you want a light that goes on  : when the 'phone is *on* hook, all you need is a voltage threshold detector.  If you're going to do the series Diode thing (which is the easiest), just make sure that the LED can take the current (I can't recall it off-hand, but it's something like 100mA or more?)  Greggo.
Frank Hielscher (hielsche@aragorn.CSEE.Lehigh.Edu) wrote: : The PADS*.ZIP files contain subdirectories, and have to be unzipped : via "pkunzip -d". Then an xcopy /s to three floppies creates the disks : needed to do the install.  I'm still not sure how this is supposed to work, since the .ZIP files took up about 2.5Mb, so it must be a tight squeeze on those floppies...  However, I managed to install PADS and I'm pretty impressed.  I created a couple of schematics without problem, but whenever I try to  create a PCB layout from one of *my* circuits (rather than the demos) it doesn't work.  I'm wondering if maybe a file isn't where it should be...  Can anyone who has a printed manual comment on whether the registration fee is worth paying?   Chris
In article <1993Apr5.172839.22714@eng.cam.ac.uk> cmh@eng.cam.ac.uk (C.M. Hicks) writes: >cobust@seagoon.ee.sun.ac.za (Cobus Theunissen) writes: > >>Hi there, > >>I am looking for a high quality log/stereo 10k pot for an audio  >>preamplifier.  The design specifies Alps RKGA-2 10k AX2, but I cannot >>find it anywhere!  Any suggestions? > >The best pots around (IMHO) are made by Penny & Giles in the UK. Their >basic model has a solid brass case, and conductive plastic elements >matched to 0.5dB across the whole rotation. The downside is that they >cost upwards of 50 quid each :-(  The P&G pots are very good.  The Alps ones are usually carried by the same folks who run the Audio Amateur magazine.
We are Dartmouth engineering students.We are looking for documented data regarding the wear associated with turning on an off a monitor and how it relates to power consumption.  Interested in a comparison between the wear on a monitor which is left on continuously and one which is turned off when not in use.    Please personalize E-mail to: ds@Dartmouth.edu  Thank you,
In article <1993Apr21.204556.21262@cronkite.ocis.temple.edu> camter28@astro.ocis.temple.edu (Carter Ames) writes: > >  Why does a lead acid battery discharge and become dead (totally unuseable) >when stored on a concrete floor?   >  I decided to bring the battery in from the lawn mower and the motorcycle >from the unheated garage this year, *to preserve them* and I just >went to use them and noticed that not only do they not work, but  >they act like the two terminals are shorted.  I asked a friend >and he said that you should never do that, 'cause it ruins them, >but he couldn't tell me why.  This topic was beaten to death a year or so ago.  The concrete is not the problem.   Lead-acid batteries often fail from disuse (not being charged for a long time), but there's no way the concrete floor could be the cause of the problem.
In article <1993Apr5.083324.48826@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu>, wellison@kuhub.cc.ukans.e du writes: >I have a project that was drooped in my lap that is somewhat a pain to design. >What I am looking for is a stable ultra-long solid state timer. What they want >to do is to place this thing on the Antartic ice shelf and measure the amount >of snow fall over a period of six weeks. Every two weeks, they want to trip a >selonoid to discharge different colored pellets by gas pressure out across the >snow. Then by digging down into the snow, the snow fall amount can be measured >as they come to the different color pellets. > >The problem is trying to build a timer that would stand the cold (-40 degrees) >and a power source that wouldn't drain. I have looked at the XR-2204 timers and >the standard NE556 dual timers, but thier temp specs won't go that low. Also, >two weeks equates to 1,209,600 seconds per firing, which means one big timing >cap ! I have found 2.2 farad (yes, Farad !) caps that have a working voltage of >5 volts and are small in size. But again, the time of discharge at -40 or lower >degrees isn't linear. I was thinking of using several timers chained together >to fire the selonid at the end of the timing period, but that blasted cold and >the drain on a battery over six weeks is the pain. One possibility would be to >use solar panels, but this is during the six month twilight. Anyone have any >good ideas ? > >Thanks in advance... > >-=-= Wes =-=- > just a suggestion: take a motorola mc14536B set it up to give you a pulse once every sec or ten secs with either a RC or xtal clock input. then feed to a MC14521B as clock input and decode output for 1,209,600 sec output ,might have to add a few 'and' gates or decoder chips to get output and reset pulse back to the'521 to restart cycle... Trigger a oneshot from the decoded riseing edge ;the one shot then goes to a mosfet to drive the mechanism to fire the pellet launcher.. these ckts require uAmps of current,between 5 - 15 volts, so a 12 volt gel cell of a few Amphours would last the six weeks. Then take the ckt board & battery wrap in 3" or 4" of foam or build a box of out of the stuff...with plywood or metal exterior... build a small heater out of 10-50 Watt resistors in series to keep the battery and ckts warm. 2nd thought use 2 batteries one for heater one for timer and pellet trigger.  Insolate-insolate.......even though the chips state that the - AL rated devices are good to -55 C.. The batteries have a considerable reduction in capacity...oh make sure the area inside has minium air leakage..  hope this helps RW     ( is this to long winded for the net??)(be gentle)...
I want to be able to take a bunch of home-made songs (from DAT or other  suitable master) and output them to a short run (10-20 off) of standard  music CDs. Would one of the CD recorders designed for writeable CD ROMs work  for this purpose? Alternatively, is there a service that does this sort of  thing for a fee?   I'm after as much information as possible on the alternatives (cost, lead  time, equipment required, procedure to follow, etc.)  Email replies would be  appreciated.
What I usually use...and this stuff is only good on glass....is either Acetone, or a little Benzene. The latter of the two is a bit dangerous (possibly a  carcinogen(sp?)) but it usualy gets the job done. I imagine you can you the two solvents on most metals as well as glass, but keep the stuff away from plastic. Better yet, you may just want to go to your local hardware store and ask them what they use.
Has anyone done a model of the 52 pin version of the 68hc11?  It doesn't seem to be too big a job, but if someone else has already done it ...
I have a HP 1740 scope that (I think) has a problem in the HV section. Symptom: started turning on and off on its own, making intermittant bright flashes on the CRT, and then finally, passed away.  If you have a manual (or any suggestions), please send me mail.  Will gladly pay reproduction/shipping costs plus a little $ for your efforts for the manual.  Thanks in advance.  								--- Jeff
In article <1993Apr21.024036.7394@lynx.dac.northeastern.edu>, dnewman@lynx.dac.northeastern.edu (David F. Newman) writes:  > Hi there,  > Can anyone tell me where it is possible to purchase controls found  > on most arcade style games.  Many projects I am working on would  > be greatly augmented if I could implement them.  Thanx in advance.   HAP controls just outside Chicago sells these.  I don't remember which suburb they are in.  The prices are pretty reasonable and they are easy to hook up.  I bought a new coin mechanism from them for $25.00 a couple of years ago.
In article <199304241405.AA11067@kepler.unh.edu> dmn@kepler.unh.edu (There's a seeker born every minute.) writes:  >     Would it be better to use a circuit based on the volume of the beeps >on the cassette, or better for the leds to respond to a tone of a certain >frequency? Is there any easy way to do either of these? I'm looking for  >the simplest circuit possible. I guess what I'm asking for is some sort of >color organ, but not quite. Let me trt to explain again...  Look for information about 567 tone decoder chip. It is an easy to use chip for detecting sound of certain frequency. You need only one 567 and some other componets for each led you want to control. The chip can take the voltage levels, which the casette gives. Radio Shack Archer Semiconductor Reference Guide gives good information how to use that chip. It should be simplest way to go. The chip costs something like 1-2 $.
i need to get some info a.s.a.p. about the cellular antenna market out there right now:  who are the main companies making them, how much do they cost, what are the specs (such as gain , directivity, etc.), and who is the contact person because a group of us here are at the Univ.of IL are researching into this technology   I will personally mail you a copy of our entire busineess plan and paper if you can be of any help..
In article <C5JCH1.FrC@ulowell.ulowell.edu> wex@cs.ulowell.edu writes: >In article <1993Apr15.100452.16793@csx.cciw.ca>, u009@csx.cciw.ca (G. Stewart Beal) writes: >|> >	I was wondering if people had any good uses for old >|> >256k SIMMs.  I have a bunch of them for the Apple Mac >|> >and I know lots of other people do to.  I have tried to >|> >sell them but have gotten NO interest. > >We use them as Christmas tree decorations, the cat doesn't eat these.
In article <skelly.18aw@amiganet.chi.il.us>, skelly@amiganet.chi.il.us (Sean Kelly) writes: |>   |>   |>      Does anyone know the pin-outs for the 27C512 EPROM??  I have bought |> several of them, none of which has come with the pin-outs!  Any info would be |> appreciated....
Does anyone has a table about the size of the wire to the amount of current it can carry.  Probably in the 1-15amp range.  My friend is interested in converting a Mazda into an electric car.  Needed information for estimation.  Thanks in advance.
verity@jack.sns.com (Steve Verity) writes: > I am trying to build a circuit that detects the presence of video (Vs. > a blank screen) by monitoring the R,G, and B outputs of a graphics > card.  It should be able to detect the presence of a single pixel at > 65 MHz, which would mean detecting a 15 NS pulse.  It should also be > able to tell the difference between a blank screen (about 300 mv) > and a dim screen (say, around 310 mv).  Oh yes, it also needs to be > cheap.  ............... In  > fact the difference between completely black and completely white is > only 650 mv.  I am wondering if I am going to have to amplify the > video signals to make this work.
I am in the midst of designing a project which requires two motors and an LED illuminator driven with Pulse-width modulation.  I'm using the 8751, and I understand that the -FB version has a programmable counter array that can essentially be set and forgotten to do the PWM.  The problems is, that variant is difficult to come by.  I need two or three of the D prefix (ceramic window) version for development, and then lots of the P prefix (plastic OTP) for later production.  I've tried Avnet, Arrow, and Pioneer.  They (might) have them, but I'm looking for samples at this point, and they're not too willing to provide them.  I would buy them, but these vendors have $100.00 minimums.  Any help is appreciated.
Radio Shack stores sell them here in the States. Not sure if InterTan is carrying these for Australia or not...  Cost is $6 USD. You charge them under a fluorescent, then they glow when exposed to IR.
In article <1993Apr6.053736.23113@doug.cae.wisc.edu> kolstad@cae.wisc.edu (Joel Kolstad) writes: >>In <3889@ncr-mpd.FtCollinsCO.NCR.COM> Brad Wright writes: >> >>>	If you know much about PC's (IBM comp) you might try the joystick >>>port.  Though I haven't tried this myself, I've been told that the port > >I believe that the "A-D converters" found on a joystick port are really >timers that tick off how long it takes an R-C circuit (the R being your >paddle) to charge up to something like 1/2 Vcc.  For games this works >pretty well, but you certainly wouldn't want to try to take lab >measurements off something as non-linear as that.  The best info I have seen so far is the article "Joystick Metrics: Measuring physical properties through the PC's joystick port" by Michael Covington in the May 1985 issue of PC Tech Journal.  It talks about how to read all kinds of things (voltage, current, resistance) in BASIC, and even includes code for a simple "oscilloscope" display.  It's possible to read the joystick port directly if you don't want to use BASIC.  The detailed information for this is in the PC Technical Reference under Options and Adapters.  You have to provide some millisecond resolution timing functions, but that's a subject which has appeared many times in articles from Dr. Dobb's, Circuit Cellar Ink, etc.  Look for the public domain ztimer package on wuarchive.  Good Luck,