waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
>Does anybody out there have one of those food dehydrators I've been seeing >all over late-night TV recently? I was wondering if they use forced air, hea >or both. If there's heat involved, anybody know what temperature they run at >My wife would like one and I'm not inclined to pay >$100.00 for a box, a fan >and a heater. Seems to me you should be able to throw a dehydrator together >for just a few bucks. Heck, the technology is only what? 1,000 years old?  You can learn how to build a deyhdrator very easily from the book, "The Hungry Hiker's Guide to Good Food," by Gretchen McHugh.  The heat source is a 100 watt light bulb.  Basically, it's a vertical wooden box with ventilation holes in the top and bottom (lots of them, you want the air to flow).  The light bulb goes in the bottom, and wire cake racks are spaced every 6" starting about 10" above the bulb.  Or, at a slightly higher cost in electricity, you can do what I do:  Use your oven.  (NOTE - I do this in an electric oven; some gas ovens may not have a low enough setting).  Put food to be dried on cookie tins or racks in the oven.  Set oven to 140 degrees (the lowest setting on my oven - if yours goes down to 120 that's probably even better.)  Stick a wooden spoon or something across the front corner of the oven and close the door on the spoon so that it stays open about an inch - this allows for airflow.  Leave the stuff in the oven for 6 to 8 hours; check it often, since this dries it much faster than the dehydrator.  If you are using cookie sheets instead of racks, turn the stuff over halfway through.  If you want more info, e-mail me since this isn't really the right sub for this stuff.  gerald.belton@ozonehole.com    * SLMR 2.1 * I still miss my boss, but my aim is improving.
baden@sys6626.bison.mb.ca (baden de bari) writes:  >  >         A while ago I saw some translucent pads, about 6"x8" or so that  >could be plugged into (something) and they would glow.  One was red,  >another green, another blue.  Interresting.  I was wondering if anyone  >would have a feed on anything of this nature, and of the price. >   oh, the pads were rubber-like and were floppy like, about 1cm thick or  >so.  The curiosities that you speak of are EL (Electro-Luminescent) pads.  They are mostly used as backlights for LCD's, and as you pointed out, comes in several different colors.  Many of them emit white-ish colors ("true" white, and blue-whiteis-blue are the ones that I've personally encountered the most often.)  They vary in their input requirements, however, they tend to operate at  about 100 Vrms, and at much higher than 60 Hz.  (400 Hz to 1 kHz, if I  recall correctly.)   You can get them to work at 120 Vrms, 60 Hz (i.e., line) but they don't glow as brightly, and they will degrade much faster. (Oh yes, almost forgot, EL's have this tendency to wear out over time...)
Just as a not of possible interest on this subject .. It is my understanding that exploding televisions were a major cause of domestic accidents in the Soviet Union in past years!
In article <16APR199323531467@rosie.uh.edu>, st1my@rosie.uh.edu (Stich, Christian E.) writes... >I just installed a Motorola XC68882RC50 FPU in an Amiga A2630 board (25 MHz >68030 + 68882 with capability to clock the FPU separately).  Previously >a MC68882RC25 was installed and everything was working perfectly.  Now the >systems displays a yellow screen (indicating a exception) when it check for >the presence/type of FPU.  When I reinstall an MC68882RC25 the system works >fine, but with the XC68882 even at 25 MHz it does not work.  The designer >of the board mentioned that putting a pullup resistor on data_strobe (470 Ohm) >might help, but that didn't change anything.  Does anybody have some >suggestions what I could do?  Does this look like a CPU-FPU communications >problem or is the particular chip dead (it is a pull, not new)? >Moreover, the place I bought it from is sending me an XC68882RC33.  I thought >that the 68882RC33 were labeled MC not XC (for not finalized mask design).  >Are there any MC68882RC33? >  >Thanks >	Christian  >
In article <blumenow.7@underdog.ee.wits.ac.za> blumenow@underdog.ee.wits.ac.za (Warren Blumenow) writes: >We have to design an RF link for a distance of 250 m.  We're using >standard RS232 waves (square pulses) as the modulating waves and the  >carrier wave is sinusoidal.  The link has to be bidirectional. >We would appreciate any advice on the type of modulating techniques >or antennas that we should use.  What frequency is your carrier?  Have you considered using two tones, one for 1 and another for 0?  How high is your RS-232 data rate?  Can you use more than one carrier freq?  Have you considered hiring an RF data transmission consultant?
C >Hi: C >I have a 486DX2-66MHz computer to use with an A/D board C >for data acquisition on an AT bus...I'm having problems. C >The AT bus runs at 12.5 MHz - correct?  So there should C >be no bus speed conflict. But I read somewhere that the C >new 486DX2-66 MHz CPU runs on a 33 MHz bus - is that for C >the local bus or the AT bus also - if so then I have a problem. C >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ C >When I run on non-turbo-mode the speed goes to 8 MHz and the C >A/D doesn't work.  Please mail your views!  Thanks. C >Vincent C >cyl5@musica.mcgill.ca C >  The STANDARD AT bus (ISA) runs at 8MHz, not 12.5 MHz, but some  non-stnadard ISA buses do have higher clock rates, but be careful, since  some boards don't work with faster than standard rates.  For instance, my  486 has adjustable AT bus speeds, and my PAS16 audio card chokes when I do  AD data acquisition with a bus speed faster than 10MHz.  The fact that non-turbo-mode speed A/D doesn't work is weird.  You may  have a motherboard with a hardware 'bug'.    33 MHz bus on the 486DX2 66 does refer to the local bus.  FYI: the AT bus  operates asynchronously, and is linked to the local bus via a 'bus  interface', which is one function that your 'chipset'.  -rdd  ---  . WinQwk 2.0b#0 . Unregistered Evaluation Copy  * KMail 2.95d W-NET HQ, hal9k.ann-arbor.mi.us, +1 313 663 4173 or 3959
Carter Ames (camter28@astro.ocis.temple.edu) wrote: :   Why does a lead acid battery discharge and become dead (totally unuseable) : when stored on a concrete floor?    It could be that you stored it somewhere that it could become covered by moisture or damp air, which would short out the terminals.  The same thing happens to my car (Citroen 2CV) -- damp gets under the bonnet (US: "hood") and shorts the spark-plugs to earth so it won't start.  The solution (for the car) is to clean the plug leads and spray with WD-40 (moisture repellant).  If damp *is* the problem, then storing the  battery off the ground may help.  I'm not sure if spraying with WD-40 would be safe since it is very flammable (high percentage petroleum).  Just a thought...  Chris
Well, I've now been working on this DAMNED stepper controller board  since 9pm.  It's now 6am... I'm pissed off.  Period.  Alright, I can  drive the steppers through the 3479P's; no problem (that's with the  6-wire steppers, 2 to +, and the other 4 are the phase lines).  Problem  1:  I've got some 4 wire steppers.  I put the darkest line to + and the  other 3 to the 3479P... worked, kinda.  Tried it with a printer stepper  (moves the head back and forth, 4 wires), didn't work too well.  It  would  shift back and forth (use something like a 4017 instead?)  Also I've  been  trying to get a bunch of NPN's to work with it... NO LUCK... tried  PNP's,  still NO LUCK!!!  I don't know if I'm cursed on this or what, but I feel  my brain slowly frying with the thought of STEPPER ... ARGGG!!!          I don't know what's wrong with the transistor hook-up (to-220  pkg  type), also tryed the 2n2222-pkg type... no luck.                           I'm going to try getting some z's, and I hope  you  can help me with this problem.    If someone can please help me with this soon, it would be greatly    appreciated...                   Thanks.         _________________________________________________   Inspiration  |   ___                             |   comes to     |  \   o  baden@sys6626.bison.mb.ca |   those who    | (  ^  ) baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca |   seek the     |   /-\      =] Baden de Bari [=    |   unknown.     |                                   |   -------------------------------------------------
In article <CSTROCKB.93Apr23002520@csws8.cs.sunysb.edu>, cstrockb@cs.sunysb.edu (Caleb Strockbine) writes...  >Could make for some interesting choreography... light and sound could be  >controlled directly by the position of a dancer on stage, or by the number >of dancers on stage. Neat. >  >You could even build a spotlight that follows the dancer around on stage! >  >Can you tell us more about what you're doing? Sounds like a very cool program.  Tis' only a gleam in my eye at this point.  I have yet to chose a tracking  method.  The initial requirement was to design a system to locate a dancer in one of eight zones across the stage.  I did some experiments with  pyroelectric detectors and found them difficult to align to get a definite zone transition.  And dancers stand still alot, so their IR signature goes away.  The good thing about pryoelectrics is that their signal is proportional  to the size of the warm body (or body part), and the velocity of said body. This could be useful for detecting the intensity of a dance gesture.  Dancers also really hate to wear little boxes and batteries strapped on their  bodies, but they really need to be emitting some kind of signal to be tracked.
I've got an rgb Mistubishi monitor and on the back it has 5 BNC connectors labeled like this:      composite   HD          VD   +           +        +       +       +              sync     red    green    blue  	I've used it as a straight RGB monsitor but i can't figure out how to use it for composite.  Could someone explain what these markings mean?  Thanks for any help.  	tom
In article <1993Apr27.190648.26436@walter.bellcore.com> deaddio@ski.bellcore.com (Michael DeAddio) writes: > >Basically, I am looking for something to operate in the >ranges of accelerations found in an automobile environment. >I would like the device to operate as a trigger for other >systems when the car's deceleration reaches a threshold value >(which is how I assume some seat belt lock mechanisms and air >bag deployment systems work?).  Open up one of the airbag control boxes.  They have inexpensive piezoelectric accelerometers in them.  I know that the GM cars use the Setra units.  The cheapest way to get such an accelerometer is to cannibalize an existing automotive unit.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a chip that that is similar to the internal timer 0 on the Intel 80C188?  I want a timer that has a Maxcount A and B and the output should the same as Intel's timer.  I called Intel and they told me that they don't make such a chip.  Any suggestions are welcome.  Thanks in advance.
I just got caller-id (except Bell calls it "call display" and didn't know what I was talking about when I asked for "caller-id").  I got the cheapest display box I could find, and hope to convert it to serial out.  The chip used is an 18-pin DIP marked "CDT 14-285" and "1473 9220". I presume the 9220 is the date.  I'm hoping somebody out there knows something about this chip, to save me a very strange few hours hooked up to a scope, asking my friends to call me again and again.  I'll post any interesting replies, and my experiences.  -simon tooke
In article <7480237@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> myers@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bob Myers) writes: >> Hi.  I was doing research on subliminal suggestion for a psychology >> paper, and I read that one researcher flashed hidden messages on the >> TV screen at 1/200ths of a second.  Is that possible?  > Might >even be a vector ("strokewriter") display, in which case the lower limit >on image time is anyone's guess (and is probably phosphor-persistence limited).  Back in high school I worked as a lab assistant for a bunch of experimental psychologists at Bell Labs.  When they were doing visual perception and memory experiments, they used vector-type displays, with 1-millisecond refresh rates common.  So your case of 1/200th sec is quite practical, and the experimenters were probably sure that it was 5 milliseconds, not 4 or 6 either.  >Bob Myers  KC0EW >myers@fc.hp.com   Steve
In <1993Apr19.192953.22874@usl.edu> yxy4145@ucs.usl.edu (Yu Yingbin) writes: >       yxy4145@usl.edu     Thanks a lot.  ieee.general  and  ieee.announce
In article <94318@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt4417a@prism.gatech.EDU (SKELTON,JOEL PHILLIP) writes:  >I need to make a power supply that can take input from a  >cigarette lighter in a car (12v dc) and drive 7.5 volts >at up to 3.0 amps. I know enough to know that a simple >voltage divider with two resistors won't do it right. Can >such a thing be made from Radio-Shack-able parts without >too much difficulty?  >jps >bf  >p.s. I've looked for premade things like this at radio shack but >none of it seems to go any higher than about 800mA.   >--  >Joel Skelton   --    North Avenue Trade School, Dept. of Round Things >gt4417a@prism.gatech.edu   (ask for Scooter Technologies, and receive)  See if Radio Shack has a National Semiconductor Adjustable Voltage  Regulator, (National) part number: LM350T or LM350K.  These devices are  rated for an input to output differential of up to 35 Volts @ 3 Amps.  Digi-Key Corp. has these parts, as well as several other useful regulators. If you don't have their catalog, their phone number is: 1-800-344-4539.  I can only guess that you may intend to recharge a 7.5 VDC nicad battery  with this device, and if I'm right, you may want to look through some of the  hobbiest books to get various ideas for battery charging circuits, first.  If you get stuck, e-mail me your FAX number, if you have one, and I'll send  you some suggestions or schematics.
In sci.electronics, swanee@megadata.mega.oz.au (Geoff Swan) writes: > >Rubbish. The reason for the colour of the boards depends on the solder  The May 1993 cover of QST has a picture of three different boards without any solder mask (you can tell from the copper colored traces). The box labeled 2304 transverter has the brown teflon/glass board, while the one in the center has the grayish board exposed.  On the left is some  fiberglass board that looks green to me.  I see no reason for putting solder mask on circuit board used for box covers :-).  I wonder if any manufacturer actually puts a solder mask on their low noise microwave preamps?  Often, microwave circuits have odd bits of wire/foil/metal attached to wherever/whatever is necessary to make the unit work properly (this is a commercial product?).  A solder mask would certainly make doing this tougher, never mind  the finding something that minimally degrades the circuits.  (Q dope for coils *does* not improve the Q--it just holds things together with minimal loss).  Zack Lau  KH6CP/1  Internet: zlau@arrl.org           "Working" on 24 GHz SSB/CW gear      			          Operating Interests: 10 GHz CW/SSB/FM US Mail: c/o ARRL Lab				       80/40/20 CW 	225 Main Street		  Station capability: QRP, 1.8 MHz to 10 GHz 	Newington CT  06111	               modes: CW/SSB/FM/packet 						      amtor/baudot Phone (if you really have to): 203-666-1541  Zack Lau  KH6CP/1  Internet: zlau@arrl.org           "Working" on 24 GHz SSB/CW gear      			          Operating Interests: 10 GHz CW/SSB/FM US Mail: c/o ARRL Lab				       80/40/20 CW 	225 Main Street		  Station capability: QRP, 1.8 MHz to 10 GHz 	Newington CT  06111	               modes: CW/SSB/FM/packet 						      amtor/baudot Phone (if you really have to): 203-666-1541
In article <1993Apr20.232804.24632@mprgate.mpr.ca> vanderby@mprgate.mpr.ca (David Vanderbyl) writes: >kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey) writes: > >>My car, unfortunately, has so much computer junk under the hood that it's >>astonishingly sensitive to RFI.   > >Hmmmmm... this has possibilities: >If the police are in pursuit of a vehicle, maybe they can bombard it with >high energy RFI.  :-)  Right. So all the cops will be buying antique muscle cars for chase cars; otherwise the *police* cars will die too!  -----------------------------------------------------------------------                     | To get the attention of a large animal, be it an                     | elephant or a bureaucracy, it helps to know what George Patterson -  | part of it feels pain. Be very sure, though, that                     | you want its full attention.                     |                            Kelvin Throop
Last week I asked for help in getting an old homemade amp working with my Sun CD-ROM drive. It turns out that the channel I was testing with was burned out in the amp. The other channel works fine.  So now I need a new amplifier chip. My local Radio Shack no longer carries components! The chip is a 12 pin SIP (?) labelled with BA5406 and then "502 515" below that.  Does anyone have a source? Thanks,
I was looking at the amps diagram for Sony 1090/2090 receivers, and I was amazed to find a difference between the US and Canadian model on the capacitor(s) that hangs off the output to the speakers:                           ------\/\/\----- to speaker (identical both models from amp ---------------| (idnetical both models) >                         <  10                          >                         |                        -----                                               |     |                                 0.022        ---   ---        Canadian model only!      US model        ---   --- 0.047       and world-wide   |     |      model only.      |    ---        Candian model only!                       |    ---  0.047                       |     |                        ----------- gound  The board itself is also identical, with room for all three caps. The US/Can versions is clearly indicated in both places.  How does that make sense? 0.047/2 is 0.0235, essentially 0.022 for caps (there are just standard caps, no special W/type/precision).
In <1r3mmnINN4p1@master.cs.rose-hulman.edu> henslelf@nextwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu. (Lige F Hensley) writes:  >In article <120466@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason   >Haines) writes: >>  >> 	I was wondering if people had any good uses for old >> 256k SIMMs.  I have a bunch of them for the Apple Mac >> and I know lots of other people do to.  I have tried to >> sell them but have gotten NO interest. >>  >> 	So, if you have an inovative use (or want to buy >> some SIMMs  8-) ) >Sure I'll give you 10 bucks for all of them  I think they are really neat to put onto key rings.  When somebody makes the mistake of asking about it, you can *totally* geek out.
Since I'm not all too keen on this area of hooking them up, I'm  asking for help.  I know better than to hook a 12v, 1a stepper line to  one, unless it can take it; however what about if I've got a 24-60v  stepper.  What sort of curent limmiting circuitry would be involved (a  small schematic would probably be helpfull).           Also, I've looked into the TIPC2701N by TI, and I was wondering  if I should use the same suggested (by you replying to this message)  current limiting circuitry on each of the 7 mosfets in the package as  that illustrated in the schematic (which you the replyer would hopefully  help me with).                                   ... hmm... different request...                    Thanks.      _________________________________________________   Inspiration  |   ___                             |   comes to     |  \   o  baden@sys6626.bison.mb.ca |   those who    | (  ^  ) baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca |   seek the     |   /-\      =] Baden de Bari [=    |   unknown.     |                                   |   -------------------------------------------------
>>So when you turn on the power, this causes the bulb to work like a neon,  > >Imprecise. This description > > 1. ignores the role of the ballast, > 2. misrepresents the heating effects in the starter. > >The bimetalic strip cools down immediately after the contacts  I've been thinking of sending into Mad magazine an idea for a  parody, of those books entitled "How Things Work" that engineers buy their sons, which explain how engines, elevators, flourescent lights, etc. work.  The parody would be "How Things Really Work."  Under "Canned Food", on the left page you'd see the description from  "How Things Work": gleaming stainless steel equipment pasteurizing the food to precisely the right temperature, then sealing the can in an oxygen-free environment, etc.  On the right page you'd see "How Things Really Work": brain-dead workers sending disgusting food to the gleaming equipment -- rotting vegetables, parts of animals people don't eat, barrels of sugar and chemicals.  Under "Elevators" you'd see (on the left) computer geniuses working out algorithms so that X number of people waiting for Y elevators will get to Z floors in the shortest time.  On the right, you'd see giggling elevator controllers behind a one-way mirror in the lobby choosing which people appear to be in the biggest hurry and making them wait longest.
Well, this is my second try at posting on this subject. Here goes... 	In Texas (Corpus Christi at least) if you pick up the phone and dial 	890 the phone company will read the number of the phone you are on  	back to you. I believe the service department uses this to make 	certain they are repairing the correct lines when they open the BIG 	junction boxes. I don't know if it will work but you can give it a 	try. Good luck.
I had a GE Emerson 13" color TV for about 3 years and one fine day, while we were watching something (I doubt if the program was the cause), we heard a mild explosion.   Our screen went blank but there was sound, so we thought, 'oh we have special effects on the program'.  But soon the sound stopped and smoke started to appear at the back of the TV. The brilliant EEs we are, we unplugged the TV and called customer service only to be thrown around by please hold, I will transfer u to blah blah..   Finally we abandoned the idea of trying to fix the TV and got a new one (we wanted a bigger one too!).  After all the story, what I wanted to know is: Is my problem an isolated incident or a common one? (I recall reading about Russian TVs exploding, but not here, in the US). Why would the picture tube explode or even smoke?  I still have the left over TV set, I might dig into it this summer. Any idea where I can get parts for these things? (probably will cost more than TV).
As the subject says - Can I use a 4052 for digital signals?  I don't see why it couldn't handle digital signals, but I could be wrong.  Anyone have any advice?  Thanks.
Could someone tell me what's in a Cornell-Dubilier EMI Filter FIL 3363-001?  It is rated at 13A 115/250VAC 50/60HZ.  Is it just MOV's and ferrite?