waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
mad9a@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Michael A. Davis) writes:   >     Chances are that this has been discussed to death already, and >if so could someone who has kept the discussion mail me or direct me  >to an archive site. Basically, >I am just wondering if Slick 50 really does all it says that it does. >And also, is there any data to support the claim.  Thanks for any info.  >Mike Davis  I don't have any written data but I know what I have experienced.  I use   S-50 in everything including my lawnmowers.  In my car it smoothed the idle and reduced the operating temp by 5 degrees.  I havent used it long enough  to test for wear, but some people I know have.     A farmer that lives near by used to have to overhaul his big deisel tractors at least every other year if not every year.  Since he has been using S-50 he has went 5 years without an overhaul.  Also a friend at a machine shop has in the past rebuilt engines with 200K miles on them because the coustomer thought it was time.  These coustomers had ran S-50 since almost new.  It was found when measuring the internals of the engine that they showed only about the amount of wear that would be expected of 30K miles not 200K.
In article <1993Apr15.223029.23340@cactus.org> boyle@cactus.org (Craig Boyle) writes: >In article <C5JnK3.JKt@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: >>	Wasn't the original intent of the reverse lights for the driver, so he >>could see where he was backing up???  Although reverse lights on the sides > >No. reverse lights are to warn others that you are backing up. They >aren't bright enough to (typically) see by without the brake and tail >lights.   I don't know where you live, but I couldn't get out of my driveway at night without reverse lights. As someone said, out in the country you notice neat little things like stars and the difference between day and night. At night around my house (which is amongst a forest of rather tall oaks) it is DARK, except for nights with full moons. Reverse lights illuminate my path very well when backing up; I greatly prefer cars with them to cars without operational reverse lights.  				James
-> 4) Are there any fairly cheap (<$150 or so) ways to increase the -> performance on this car? Unfortunately, a Taurus is not exactly a -> muscle car, so I'm looking for ways to increase the performance.  There is a company in Florida that sells computer chips that supposedly get a few HP and Torque out of the 3.0. Don't have the address, but saw the ad in Hot Rod and some other car magazines. Also, you could open up the exhaust (get an exhaust with a larger i.d.)  Hope this helps. If you find anything else, let me know. I've got a 1990 Taurus L.
In article <C5FqFy.Fpq@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, mliggett@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (matthew liggett) writes: > In <1993Apr13.111652@usho72.hou281.chevron.com> hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes: >  >  >> While taking an extended Easter vacation, I was going north on I-45 >> somewhere between Centerville, TX and Dallas, TX and I came upon a  >> train parked on a trestle with its locomotive sitting directly over >> the northbound lanes.  There appeared to be movement within the cab  >> and out of curiosity I slowed to 85 to get a better look.  Just as I >> passed from underneath the trestle, my radar detector went into full  >> alert - all lights lit and all chirps, beeps, and buzzes going strong. >> I thought I had been nailed good but no police materialized. >  >> Could this have been caused by the train's radio or what? >  >  I don't know about trains, but I've saw a sign on the back of a Greyhound bus that warns you that your radar detector may be set off. It doesn't explain why, but it does set off my radar detector.
1991 Toyota Camry for sale:     Deluxe package     5 speed     grey     power windows     power door locks     AM/FM cassette     power steering     power brakes     70K highway miles     Excellent condition      $9500                             Rob Fusi                                       rwf2@lehigh.edu     (609) 397-2147 after 7pm          E-mail me for more info...     (914) 335-6984 day (until 5)     Ask for Bob Fusi
Tony,  I believe, first of all, that Max's car is an Austrailian built car.  I don't think its a chopped up U.S. unit.  It may be called a Kangaroo or Roo or something similar-not sure.  But, I do recall reading that Austrailian cars used Ford V-8 engines.  The Ford V-8 Interceptor is, I think, a 428 c.i. cop car motor.  Whatever the case that small car with a screaming big block Ford 428 would probably smoke the tires for miles/kilometers.  I hope someone out there can elaborate on the subject.
I have $30,000 as my budget.  I'm looking for a sports or GT car.  What do you think would be the best buy?  (I'm looking for specific models)  Thanks, Danny --
In article <C4wJGq.A40@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu> callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) writes: >No. At six years, you are nearing the end of the design life of the >vehicle, when everything should be breaking. At that point, the >driving habits make more difference than the actual reliability >of the vehicle, so the data becomes unreliable for drawing conclusions,  Bad driving habits can damage a car in a couple of months, not 6 years.  If that were not the case, everyone would be driving fleet rental re-solds...  And while you are considering things (factors in stat terms), how about city vs. highway driving ratios, owner vs. dealer service, extreme weather or environment, adherence (sp?) to maintenance schedules, whether the car has ever been in an accident, number of different drivers of the same car in a family, whether the car is garaged, warmed up, ...  Spiros
Does anyone have one of these that would care to share some information on?  I concerned about the turbo.   How reliable is it?  How's the gas milage.  Please responde to me, not here.  Thank you.
In article <C63ypt.47D@tsegw.tse.com> pbhandar@tsegw.tse.com (Parminder Bhandari) writes: >I've heard *unconfirmed* rumours that there is a new Integra being released >for '94.  Well, you can just about set your watch by Honda releasing new models every 4 years and an upgrade half way through the cars life. The local acura dealership tells me that the new Integra will be out very soon, i.e. May/June.  Its hard to find specific details as the Integra has been deleted from most of the rest of the world - I have seen them in Canada and Australia as well as the U.S. but it was discontinued after the first generation in Europe. Normally you can see new Japanese models appear in Europe or Japan first and extrapolate from there. C+D reported that the engine would be a carryover I think.
All you have to do is turn it in to the police like you would an accident, get a report and send it in to your insurance company and they will contact the other guys insurance company and they will have to pay just as they would in an accident they caused.  Thus no need to go to court.  A friend of mine did this and he got the money so it does work.
Could someone out there please tell me how I could get onto the Saab mailing list. Specifically I need the address and instructions on what to do.  Thanks in advance
> I just read articals on this in Road and Track and Car and Driver > (Is that one mag or two? =B^), and I was wondering if people out > there have any opinions that differed from what these mags have to say...  Depending on how you plan to use your SUV, I might recommend also browsing Trailer Boats and one or more of those Pickup, Shotgun, and 4WD magazines.  The car rags mostly seem to consider recently graded pea gravel to be offroading and ten sacks of redwood chips to be a bedload.  Considering that most of these SUVs seem to be  used mostly as robust station wagons, that's probably not a bad approach, but if your applications are more demanding, pick your information sources accordingly.  Of the three vehicles on your short list (Explorer, 4Runner,  Pathfinder), I'd recommend the 4Runner as being closely based  on a rather robust pickup and the Explorer for being comfortably  carlike.  Don't know much about the Pathfinder.
In a previous article, ip02@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Danny Phornprapha) says:  >I have $30,000 as my budget.  I'm looking for a sports or GT car. > >What do you think would be the best buy?  (I'm looking for specific models) > >Thanks, >Danny >--  > >=============================================================================== >=    "Hey! You programmers out there!     |    Danny Phornprapha              = >=     Please consider this:               |    ip02@lehigh.edu                = >=                                         |                                   = >=     Bugs are another endangered earth   |    LUCC Student Konsultant        = >=     Species needing your protection.    |    Work: (215) 758-4141           = >  For an all out sports car, I'd go for the RX-7 without the sports suspension (which is too stiff.)  For a little more practicality and more comfort, the Nissan 300ZX Turbo is a good buy.  And for a good dose of luxury, the Lexus SC300 is perfect (with a manual transmission of course.)  However, the Toyota Supra is coming out soon and if you like it's looks, the performance is supposed to be great, almost race car like.  I don't particulary like the Mitsubishi 3000GT's or the Dodge Stealths as they are too heavy and aren't very nimble handlers for a sports car. --  A motion picture major at the Brooks Institute of Photography, CA Santa Barbara and a foreign student from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
This whole discussion is just a religous war.  I'd rather have a '93 RX-7 than the Mustang 5.0L for 3 times the price.  That's how you explain Porsches selling.  Some folks would rather have the Stang...  <shrug>  Sean
>I too was puzzled by this obvious untruth. What I think is going on is that >Nissan claims that the Altima is "the best selling new car namelplate in >the US" (I think I have this near verbatim). Lee Iaccoca's statistics >dept. would have been proud of that sentence.
larose@austin.cs.utk.edu (Brian LaRose) writes:  >This just a warning to EVERYBODY on the net.  Watch out for >folks standing NEXT to the road or on overpasses.   They can >cause SERIOUS HARM to you and your car.    >(just a cliff-notes version of my story follows)  >10pm last night, I was travelling on the interstate here in >knoxville,  I was taking an offramp exit to another interstate >and my wife suddenly screamed and something LARGE hit the side >of my truck.  We slowed down, but after looking back to see the >vandals standing there, we drove on to the police station.  >She did get a good look at the guy and saw him "cock his arm" with >something the size of a cinderblock, BUT I never saw him. We are  >VERY lucky the truck sits up high on the road; if it would have hit >her window, it would have killed her.   >The police are looking for the guy, but in all likelyhood he is gone.   >I am a very good driver (knock on wood), but it was night-time and >I never saw the guy.  The police said they thought the motive was to >hit the car, have us STOP to check out the damage, and then JUMP US, >and take the truck.    >PLEASE BE AWARE OF FOLKS.  AND FOR YOUR OWN GOOD, PLEASE DON'T STOP!!!!  >peace.   >--  >---------------------------------------------------------------------------  >brian larose  larose@cs.utk.edu   #12, 3103 Essary Rd. Knoxville, TN 37918.  >{}
>Well, you young fellers won't remember, but we used to have side vent >front windows until some damn bean counter scrapped them. These were >separate triangular windows at the leading edge of the front doors >that pivoted outward at the rear edge. Worked like a charm.   Yeah, I loved the vent windows on my 82 Escort (hell, the only thing I liked about the car).  One of the things I'd like to see brought back.  Does anyone know if they're an option on the new Escorts?
In rec.autos, CPKJP@vm.cc.latech.edu (Kevin Parker) writes: >   I'd like to get some feedback on a car with most bang for the buck in the >$13000 to 16,000 price range. I'm looking for a car with enough civility to be >driven every day, or even on long trips, but when I hit the gas, I want to feel >some acceleration.  Handling is important also, as are reliability and pretty >low maintenance costs.  A stylish appearance is nice, but I don't want a car >that is all show and not much go.  Even though many of the imports are fast, I >don't really want a turbo, and I never have cared for the song sung by a four >clyinder.  I'd prefer a v6 or v8 for the engine.  If you have any suggestions, >Kevin Parker       There's only one car that really fits your needs. It's spelled:
My friend brought a subaru SVX recently.  I had drove it for couples times and I think its a great car, esp on snow.  However when she took it to a local Subaru dealer for a oil change, the bill came out to be about 80 dollars.  The dealer told us it is because to change the oil filter on a SVX it is necessary to disassemble a metal cover under the engine and that took an hour of labour. At first, we think we are being ripped off so she phone to a dealer in Toronto but found out the they are charging roughly the same price.  So is there any SVX owner out there that has the same problem ?  And if the oil change story is true, then the engineer of Subaru looks pretty stubid to me. By the way, the car looks great.
In article <1r7f9qINNk24@phantom.gatech.edu> grahamt@phantom.gatech.edu (Graham E. Thomas) writes: >jmm4h@Virginia.EDU ("The Blade Runner") writes: > >>A GT-40?!  Gotta be in my top 5 favorite-cars-of-all-time >>list.  Where is this place?  Was the car for sale?  COME ON, I >>need details...or not.  Anyways, I just had to say WOW at the >>sighting of such a fine beast.  But remember, the Mustang will >>forever be the true King of the Road.   > >The place was in what used to be a small town (now a suburb) north of  >Atlanta. I don't know if the car was for sale or not, you wouldn't put >a price on the window on this type of car anyway.   Damn straight! As far as I've heard, unless the owner is _very_ hard up, the GT-40s are not for sale at any price that mere mortals could afford.  >And maybe the Mustang >will be forever King of the Road, the GT-40 isn't road legal.  I think the GT-40 actually _is_ street legal, although that particular question is moot (see the price figures below).  >This car was right hand drive (weren't they all like that?). How much does >a GT-40 go for? How many were made?  I wish I could find my Shelby-American guide; it included the GT-40 registry (as of '88 or so). There were precious few of them made  (fifty is the number that springs to mind; they made just enough to qualify for the Manufacturer's Cup, or whichever series it was that Shelby broke Ferarri's 13-year winning streak in in '65), and they are all accounted for. The last price I saw estimated on a GT-40 was a little bit over $1,000,000 (yes, that's right, ONE MILLION US DOLLARS; it was second only to some worthless piece of Ferrari that it would blow the doors off of ;-).  I don't recall off-hand what the drive configuration was, although I'm certain some must have been LHD, as they had to be sold to qualify for racing. The drivertrain was the Ford 427 (hi-riser, I think,  and/or side-oiler) coupled to various 4-speed transmissions. They also used 3-speed manuals; they had lots of problems with the original trannys breaking under the load of the 427. Layout was rear-engine, rear-drive, with the "bundle of snakes" exhaust headers...I can remeber other bits and pieces of info, but I can't remember whether they applied to the GT-40 or the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe...I'll try and find that reference.  				James
I have just taken delivery on a new GM car (Firebird) with a  clearcoat finish.  I assume that it is probably urethane since the  industry has moved in that direction in paints.   In years past, it used to be recommended that owners wait up to  60 days before you wax a car, for the paint to "cure."  The dealer  shop manager said this also, but I'm not sure that he wasn't just  basing it on past tradition.  Does anyone know if this is still a  recommended practice, or is it better to go ahead and wax right  away (non-abrasive new car wax) with the newer finishes?
In article <1993Apr5.230808.581@cs.brown.edu> cs012055@cs.brown.edu (Hok-Chung Tsang) writes: >Moreover, if Saturn really does reduce the dealer profit margin by $1000,  >then their cars will be even better deals.  Say, if the price of a Saturn was >already $1000 below market average for the class of cars, then after they >reduce the dealer profit, it would be $2000 below market average.  It will:  >1) Attract even more people to buy Saturns because it would SAVE THEM MONEY.  >2) Force the competitors to lower their prices to survive.  but what is Saturn's motivation here?  they're already selling every car they make, with multiple shifts in the plant.  given this, what possible motivation could they have to lower prices?  cheers,   richard
anyone else experiencing a similar problem?  This concerns the clutch on a 92 Honda Accord 5 speed. When the clutch is first used in the morning, about the first 4 miles of shifting, there is a significant amount of clutch chatter until things warm up.  Then the clutch shifts smoothly.  This chatter started when I moved to the San  Francisco Bay area from a low-humidity environment.  The dealer stated that this is known to happen since Honda changed from an asbestos to non-asbestos clutch material.  No remedy!! Seems that moisture on clutch surface causes slipping until the moisture evaporates.
In article <1993Apr5.181056.29411@mks.com> mike@mks.com (Mike Brookbank) writes: >My sister has an MGB.  She has one from the last year they were produced >(1978? 1979?).  Its in very good shape.  I've been bugging her for years >about selling it.  I've said over and over that she should sell it >before the car is worthless while she maintains that the car may >actually be increasing in value as a result of its limited availability. >  Grass Roots Motorsport [3/93] has a long article about MG/B's this month. As far as collectivity/speculation is concerned they think it is a  waste of time, especially the later rubber bumpered models are the least desirable, a 1962 original model the most. The reasons for its low value are easy availability and the fact that it just was not a very good car.
In article <1993Apr15.020356.28944@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes: >I take the electrodes of the Amp/Ohm/Volt meter whatever and connect one >to each earlobe.  Then, symmetrically insert my fingers in each of the >spark plug boots. No cheating guys!  both hands must be used!  I have just a couple of questions about this technique.  First, what firing order should I use?  Do I start with my pointer finger or my pinky?  Left hand or right?  And secondly, I have a 12cyl and there are two cylinders unaccounted for.  Any suggestions?
In a previous article, sdexter@shl.com (Scott Dexter) says:   >I like the Amigo; I would like some feedback... > >Any and all feedback appreciated-   Yet another Jeep wannabe designed for yuppies who will never take it off road but want to look "outdoorsey".
In article <C63xp2.KJB@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu> callison@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu (James P. Callison) writes: >In article <1r7f9qINNk24@phantom.gatech.edu> grahamt@phantom.gatech.edu (Graham E. Thomas) writes: >>jmm4h@Virginia.EDU ("The Blade Runner") writes: >>>sighting of such a fine beast.  But remember, the Mustang will >>>forever be the true King of the Road.    Especially the '68 Shelby-American GT-500KR (King of the Road, so named to steal GM's planned Camaro King of the Road's thunder :-)  >>And maybe the Mustang >>will be forever King of the Road, the GT-40 isn't road legal. > >I think the GT-40 actually _is_ street legal, although that particular >question is moot (see the price figures below).  Some GT-40s are street legal, some aren't.  >>This car was right hand drive (weren't they all like that?). How much does >>a GT-40 go for? How many were made?  I found my Shelby-American guide. There were a grand total 126 GT-40s built: 		GT-40 Coupes		55 		GT-40 Road Cars		31 		GT-40 Mk II		13 		GT-40 Mk IIIs		 7 		GT-40 Roadsters		 5 		Mirages			 3 		GT-40 Mk IVs		12 		   	TOTAL:	       126 		Additional uncompleted Mk IIIs	6-12  Twelve of these cars were prototypes; 48 racing coupes; 31 road coupes; eight Mk II coupes; 4 LHD Mk IIIs; and 3 RHD Mk IIIs. The other  breakdowns follow the above list (eg, 12 were Mk IVs). The LHD/RHD breakdown is only given on the Mk IIIs.  The prices (for those which can be bought) are around the $1 Million mark, last I heard, with a projection of some $3.5 Million (or thereabouts) in 2000. It was second only to some penny-ante Ferarri ;-).  Shelby won the FIA World Manufacturer's Cup with his Cobras in '65; that was also the year that he retired them from the Shelby-American racing team (in favor of the Ford GT program the next year). That victory broke a 13(?) year Ferarri winning streak.  Well, there's lotsa info I could spout, but I'll refrain. Much of this information comes from "Hot Rod" magazine's "Shelby American Cobra/Mustang Guide," which has more info on the Shelby-American  Fords than you could _ever_ want to know.  				James
In article <1993Apr6.180456.17573@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes: |> In article <1993Apr06.133319.7008@metrics.com> tomh@metrics.com (Tom Haapanen) writes: |> >CHINTS@ISCS.NUS.SG writes: |> >> Here are "another" ten reasons why we should all love CR |> >> 10. Car salesmen love their new car buying service |> >> 2. And later on buying a CR "idealized family sedan" |> > |> >And my number 1: |> > |> >1. The spectacle of the religious fervour of the CR "true believers". |>  |> Or the spectacle of "Macho Real Men" who would never bother to read the |> magazine but are more than apt to criticize it.  Hey, I'm a "Macho Real Man" and I DO read it.  So I can criticize it all I want, especially since I pay for the publication. (They accept no outside advertising, don't you know....)  |> John Nielsen   MAGNUS Consultant            ______   ______   __  __	 |> "To you Baldrick, the Renaissance was just /\  __ \ /\  ___\ /\ \/\ \ |> something that happened to other people,   \ \ \/\ \\ \___  \\ \ \_\ \ |> wasn't it?" - The Black Adder               \ \_____\\/\_____\\ \_____\  Relying on Consumer Reports to pick your automobiles is like letting Field & Stream select your living room furniture.
My Honda Accord just hit the magic 100,000 mile mark and now all sorts of things are beginning to go bad. The latest problem I am experiencing is with my brakes.  They still stop the car fine, but once I am stopped completely, my brake pedal will sink another 2 or 3 inches all by itself.  If feels really strange, and I am worried my brakes will quit working one of these days.  I checked my brake fluid, and the reservoir was full, but the fluid itself looked really dirty (like dirty oil).  I called my mechanic and he told me I need a new brake master cylinder, which will cost me a whopping $250-300.  I was just wondering if anyone out there has experienced this sort of thing.  If so, is my mechanic being honest? Or do I simply need to have my brakes bled and new fluid put in?  Any help you could provide would be appreciated.  Please send replies directly to me, as I rarely have a chance to read this list.  I will post the responses if there is any interest.  Thanks,