waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
o Subaru Service Manuals ................................... $10.00      This is not a complete set, but includes sections 4, 5       & 6 which cover MECHANICAL COMPONENTS (suspension, wheels       & axles, steering, brakes, pedals & control cables, heater       & ventilator, air conditioning), BODY (body & exterior,       doors & windows, seats, seat belts, interior, instrument       panel), and ELECTRICAL (engine electrical system, body       electrical system, wiring diagram, and trouble-shooting).       These are the genuine Subaru issue manuals.  They are for       model year 1986, but have plenty of good information that       applies to other years as well.   And, as long as I'm posting (end of car stuff),  o Miscellaneous Darkroom Equipment ........................ $75.00      Solar enlarger (several objective lenses) with easel and       timer, negative carriers for 35mm and 2 1/4 x 3 1/4, misc.      printing masks.  Developing tanks, thermometer, trays,       constant-temperature bath, ground glass, mirrors, darkroom      lamps, glassware, el-cheap-o tripods..... and (as they say)                              MUCH   MORE!   o Beautiful Antique Buffet ............................... $1500.00      Solid cherry (no veneer).  Handmade, with very interesting      dovetail corners in the drawers.  Built (we think) around       1880.  Not gaudy or covered with gew-gaws; a simple, elegant       piece of furniture, but too big (60" long, 37" tall, 24"       deep) for our little Cape Cod house.   Will deliver pricier items (ie, over $10) anywhere in the Rochester  area.  (And will consider delivering the others.)  Will deliver any  of it on UofR Campus between now and graduation.
>> 'cause a friend rented a car last year and it turned out he needed a lot more >>insurance than what's included in the base price. But on the other hand he  >>didn't rent it from Alamo. >> >>Probability that I'll be needing more insurance?  >Unless you have an accident, you won't need more.   > >Joe > ================== Let me see, "unless you have an accident, you won't need more", hmmmmmmm.
Not exactly dumb, but who remebers the tachometer on the 69 or 70 Firebird  bulging out of the _hood_ right in front of the driver. Neat place but I love  to know what the elemnts did to its internals after a few years. Also, does  the speedomete pointer on many US cars have to be 3 feet long?.
One of the local dealers has a used (7k miles) '93 Probe GT on the lot with a photocopy of a document taped to the window saying the dealership bought the car back from the previous owner because of "Engine noises", but that the Ford district rep had OK'ed the car saying those noises were "normal".  I thought it was worth looking into (the car seems otherwise clean) and mentioned this to a co-worker, who proceeded to tell me a horror story about her son's '93 Probe GT, which had several problems, ending with engine noises which she said "was something with the heads", that Ford acknowledged the noise, said they were working on it, but didn't have a cure as of yet.  Her son traded the car in (and I checked -- not the same car).  So I have some evidence of a reoccuring problem with the V6 in the Probe GT's, and by extension with the Madza 626 and MX-6.
Is clear coat really worth it?  Yes, on the showroom floor, the cars have this deep, lustrous shine that just can't be found on paint jobs that aren't clear coated.  On the other hand, it seems that every clear coated car that I've seen on the road (in a parking lot, etc.) has fine scratches throughout the paint job.  As does, alas, my 1992 Laser.  Several weeks ago I had my car professionally polished and waxed. When I picked it up, it had that same showroom shine that I remember from a year ago when I bought it.  Several days ago I took my car to the dealership for some work.  As an added bonus, they washed my car.  Unfortunately, whoever washed it either didn't get the roof (which is black, the rest of the car is red) completely clean before he dried it, or he used a dirty towel.  Now my showroom shine is a haze of fine scratches that aren't really visible until the light hits the roof at a particular angle.  I am, to put it mildy, somewhat peeved about this.  Do I have any  chance of getting the dealership to do something about this? My guess is 'no'.  Is there any product on the market that provides a solution to this problem?  Or am I faced with the prospect of having the car professionally polished again to hide the scratches? Information, commiseration, and sympathy all greatly appreciated . . .
In <1993Apr14.230524.9578@ctp.com> bpita@ctp.com (Bob Pitas) writes:  >In article <zdem0a.734707529@hgo7> zdem0a@hgo7.hou.amoco.com (Donna Martz) writes:  >[Stuff Deleted]  >> >>Excuse me, but I understood what Mr. Smith meant.  AND, I have often observed  >>when traffic is "blocked solid", that if a few people yeild to the "moron" >>who is impatiently riding bumpers, the slug at the front of the pack will >>miraculously wake up, change lanes, and viola! no more jam.  Granted the >>situation here does not apply to rush hour in a crowded city.  But I have >>observed this situation regularly on your average interstate, six or  >>eight sets of cars, side by side, bunched up in a "pack" with open  >>freeway fore and aft as far as you can see.  The people who refuse to >>yeild as a "point of honor" are just as annoying as the slug in the front.  >I agree that if traffic is all blocked up and you want to pass, you might >not feel like moving over for someone behind you because you don't want to >give them that one car-length, when they should just wait like you are. >BUT, if you're one of those people that just sit's behind the person, and >doesn't flash them with the high beams, or pull left and flash them, or >ride their bumper, or otherwise tell them that you *do* in fact want to  >go by, and you're not just drafting them, then get the hell out of the  >way of someone who will!  I especially hate it when you flash someone at >the back of a line and they don't 'pass it on'.    So after I've flashed my lights at the chap in front and he doesn't 'pass it on' (and few if any do), what next? On major highways, 3 or more lanes in each direction, keeping to the extreme right blocks folks who are entering. Also, as someone posted in this thread, here in the D.C. area we have a few left lane exits (sounds like 66). If you wait until the last minute to get in the left lane you won't, cause these yoyos won't make room.  We have a particularly bad strech here in Merryland just over the Cabin John bridge. There are two very long entry ramps which all the hurry-up yahoos dive into cause they want to get ahead. When we get to the point where these ramps merge, all hell breaks lose. The result is that traffic which was moving at 55 on the VA side of the bridge, stalls on t'other side. If these dingbats had stayed in lane, allowed the folks coming up the two ramps to merge, we would still be doing 55. Instead we do start- stop for 4 miles. Dave Barry's idea of a laser equipped car would be real useful here.  Bob
In article <C5LMtr.Mo7@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> marshatt@feserve.cc.purdue.edu (Za uberer) writes: >>>In article <1qgi8eINNhs5@skeena.ucs.ubc.ca>, yiklam@unixg.ubc.ca (Yik Chong Lam) writes: >>>|> Hello, >>>|>     Does anyone know how to take out the bolt under the engine >>>|> compartment?  Should I turn clockwise or counter?  I tried any kind >>>|> of lubricants, WD-40,etc, but I still failed! >>>|>     Do you think I can use a electric drill( change to a suitable >>>|> bit ) to turn it out?  If I can succeed, can I re-tighten it not too >>>|> tight, is it safe without oil leak? >>>|> Thank you very much in advance------  Winson  Don't worry about leaks.  Don't worry about which way to turn the damn thing. Take a good claw hammer and pry it straight out.  Now, you'll notice, after all the oil pours out, that there are no theads where there used to be.
In article <C4vIr5.L3r@shuksan.ds.boeing.com>, fredd@shuksan (Fred Dickey) writes: |> CarolinaFan@uiuc (cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote: |> : 	I have been active in defending Saturn lately on the net and would |> : like to state my full opinion on the subject, rather than just reply to others' |> : points. |> : 	 |> : 	The biggest problem some people seem to be having is that Saturn |> : Dealers make ~$2K on a car.  I think most will agree with me that the car is |> : comparably priced with its competitors, that is, they aren't overpriced  |> : compared to most cars in their class.  I don't understand the point of  |> : arguing over whether the dealer makes the $2K or not?   |>  |> I have never understood what the big deal over dealer profits is either. |> The only thing that I can figure out is that people believe that if |> they minimize the dealer profit they will minimize their total out-of-pocket |> expenses for the car. While this may be true in some cases, I do not |> believe that it is generally true. I bought a Saturn SL in January of '92. |> AT THAT TIME, based on studying car prices, I decided that there was |> no comparable car that was priced as cheaply as the Saturn. Sure, maybe I |> could have talked the price for some other car to the Saturn price, but |> my out-of-pocket expenses wouldn't have been any different. What's important |> to me is how much money I have left after I buy the car. REDUCING DEALER PROFIT |> IS NOT THE SAME THING AS SAVING MONEY! Show me how reducing dealer profit |> saves me money, and I'll believe that it's important. My experience has |> been that reducing dealer profit does not necessarily save me money. |>  |> Fred   Say, you bought your Saturn at $13k, with a dealer profit of $2k. If the dealer profit is $1000, then you would only be paying $12k for the same car.  So isn't that saving money?  Moreover, if Saturn really does reduce the dealer profit margin by $1000,  then their cars will be even better deals.  Say, if the price of a Saturn was already $1000 below market average for the class of cars, then after they reduce the dealer profit, it would be $2000 below market average.  It will:  1) Attract even more people to buy Saturns because it would SAVE THEM MONEY.   2) Force the competitors to lower their prices to survive.  Now, not only will Saturn owners benefit from a lower dealer profit, even  the buyers for other cars will pay less.  Isn't that saving money?
Hi, maybe someone can help me here... I am looking to buy this 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE for CDN$14000 right now. The car has 96000 km (or about 60000 miles) on it. A typical mileage for 1990 cars seem to be about 70000 km (or about 43K mi). The seller just informed me that when he brought the car in for certification he was told that the front break pads and the exhausts had to be replaced to meet the legal standards.  (He said he will replace the components before selling the car to me.)  Being copmletely ignorant to the technical stuff on cars, I don't know what this could mean... Is 96K km about the time typical for replacing the above mentioned items? Or is this an indication that the car was abused? Would other things break down or have to be replaced soon? The seller told me that he used the car on the highway a lot, but, I don't know how to verify this...  I've seen the paint chipped away in tiny dots in the front edge of the hood, though.  Although the Maxima is an excellent car and the car is very clean and well kept, it's currently out of warranty (a similarly priced '90 Accord with 70K km will have 2 years or 30K km worth of warranty left) and I don't want to worry about paying for any repair bills... But, I also need a car for 5 people...    When will the new Maxima come out, by the way?  I would very much appreciate your input in this. Please reply by e-mail (preferred) or post in this newsgroup. Thanks!  Ryan
Hello,   I have a 92 Toyota 4X4 and in the last few weeks I have been getting quite a few "dings" :( in the paint on the hood from rocks and debris off of the road. I have never had any major problems with other car/trucks in the past (maybe a ding once in a while). I went to the dealer and he said that it happens all of the time and he recomended putting a bug deflector on the hood. He said that the trucks, for some unknown reason, seem to have this problem more than some cars.?   It seems to me that either my luck is really bad or there might be a problem with the paint (painted on a monday morning perhaps?).    How well do these bug deflectors work for small road debris on trucks?    If anyone has any experiences/suggestions please let me know, thanks.   --Greg
ak954@yfn.ysu.edu (Albion H. Bowers) writes:   >In a previous article, wade@nb.rockwell.com (Wade Guthrie) says:  >>takaharu@mail.sas.upenn.edu (Taka Mizutani) writes:  >>>In article <1993Apr13.160535.20123@progress.com>, damelio@progress.COM >>>(Stephen D'Amelio) wrote:  I wrote: >This is consistent with the pre-'74 911.  The engine before that was a 2.2 >litre (or less, depending on how early you go), and got its power at high >revs (starting slowly at about 3K, and jumping up at around 5K) with a  >narrow band.  The '74 was a 3 litre and had a lot of smog equipment.  If >you got much power at all, it'd be better distributed through the rev >range.  >Bzzzt.  Wrong answer.  It really depends on whether you are talking model >year or date of manufacture.  For instance, mine was a '67, but was >manufactured in August of '66.  Prior to 1970 all 911s were 2.o liter.  For >the '70 and '71 model years they were 2.2 liter.  for the 1972 and 1973 >model years they were 2.4 liter _EXCEPT_ for the '73 Carerra RS which was a >2.7 liter.  The '74 and later years were easily identified by the new 5 mph >bumpers.  Most models in the '74 year were 2.7 lietsr _EXCEPT_ the Carerra >RSR which was a 3.0 liter (US Carerras from '74 were 2.7 liter models).  In >'78 they went to 3.0 liter and there was only a single model, the SC (think >of it as a cross between the S and the Carerra models).  note all the above >are based on _MODEL_ year, not date of manufacture.    I stand corrected.  This is all from memory, mind you  :-)  >As for the rev happy behavior, the earlier cars are even more prone to >this.  The 2.4 liter cars used low compression engines, and suffered a bit >in this regard.  The early 3.0 liter and 2.7 liter engines also got a good >dose of smog gear as well.  The 2.0 and 2.2 liter engines were far and away >the quickest revvers of the lot.   Yeah, that's what I was trying to say.  No, REALLY!
Greetings automobile enthusiasts.  Can anyone tell me if there is a mail order company that sells BMW parts discounted... cheaper than the dealerships.  Sorry if it's a FAQ. email replies very much appreciated.  Thanks,
Hi from Australia,  I am a car enthusiast in Australia.   I am particularly interested in American Muscle cars of the  1960s and 1970s. ALL MAKES: AMC, Ford, Chrysler/Mopar, GM.  I will be in the USA for 6 weeks from May 2nd to -June 14 1993.  Chicago: Sun May 2 -Thursday May 6 Denver:  Friday May 7 - Sunday May 9 Austin, Texas: Monday May 10- Friday May 21 Oklahoma City: Friday May 21 - Monday May 24 Anaheim, California: Tuesday May 25-Thursday May 27 Las Vegas, Nevada:  Friday May 28- Sunday May 30 Grand Canion, Monday May 31 - Tuesday June 1 Las Angeles, San Diego and vicinity: Wednesday June 3-Sunday June 6 June South Lake Tahoe, Cal: Sunday June 6 - Wednesday June 9 Reno: Thursday June 10 San Fransisco: Thursday June 10 - Sunday June 13   I was wondering if anyone could send me any information of  car shows, swap meets, drag meets, model car shows etc. during this period. Can anybody tell me when the Pomona Swap meet is on this year?  Also, any places to visit (eg. car museums, private collections,  your collection? etc. Any bit of information is appreciated!  I am also interested in finding some model cars (scale Models).  I am intersted in 1968-1974 AMC cars. Of particular interest is: 1968-1970 AMX 1968-1974 Javelin 1969 SCRAMBLER 1970 Rebel Machine and others  If you have any kits, plastics, diecast etc and are interested in selling them, tell me, I will be interested.  I can also send/bring you models of Australian High performance cars if  you are interested.   Please reply by email to: johnt@spri.levels.unisa.edu.au   Thanks,
I am interested in finding out how the 4Runner and Pathfinder have been updated in the past few years.  Like new engine, suspension and the like.  I noticed that the 1993 and 1992 4Runners are identical, for example, and was looking into buying a used one.  Any info would be appreciated, esp. models/years to check out or avoid.
In article <C63ypt.47D@tsegw.tse.com> pbhandar@tsegw.tse.com (Parminder   Bhandari) writes: > I've heard *unconfirmed* rumours that there is a new Integra being   released > for '94. > Does anybody have any info on this? > The local sales people know as much as I can throw them. > --Parms. > (still no sig).  here we go again... now these are just rumors.. so dont quote me.  New Integra supposedly wedge shaped again.  175 hp and all-wheel drive in top models.  Then a variant called the zx-r comes later. (roadster?).  i think it gets unveiled at end of summer.
Water gradually builds up in the trunk of my friend's 89 Ford Probe.  Every once in a while we would have to remove the spare and scoop out the water under the plywood/carpet cover on the trunk.  I would guess this usually happens after a good thunder storm.  A few Qs:  1) Is this a common problem? 2) Where are the drain holes located for the hatch?  Thanks for any info. Tom
In article <C5JoIt.E31@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, neil@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Neil Williams) writes: |> larose@austin.cs.utk.edu (Brian LaRose) writes: |>  |> >This just a warning to EVERYBODY on the net.  Watch out for |> >folks standing NEXT to the road or on overpasses.   They can |> >cause SERIOUS HARM to you and your car.   |>  |> >(just a cliff-notes version of my story follows) |>  |> >10pm last night, I was travelling on the interstate here in |> >knoxville,  I was taking an offramp exit to another interstate |> >and my wife suddenly screamed and something LARGE hit the side |> >of my truck.  We slowed down, but after looking back to see the |> >vandals standing there, we drove on to the police station. |>  |> >She did get a good look at the guy and saw him "cock his arm" with |> >something the size of a cinderblock, BUT I never saw him. We are  |> >VERY lucky the truck sits up high on the road; if it would have hit |> >her window, it would have killed her.  |>  |> >The police are looking for the guy, but in all likelyhood he is gone.  |>  |> >I am a very good driver (knock on wood), but it was night-time and |> >I never saw the guy.  The police said they thought the motive was to |> >hit the car, have us STOP to check out the damage, and then JUMP US, |> >and take the truck.   |>  |> >PLEASE BE AWARE OF FOLKS.  AND FOR YOUR OWN GOOD, PLEASE DON'T STOP!!!! |>  |> >peace. |>  |>  |> >--  |> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------  |> >brian larose  larose@cs.utk.edu   #12, 3103 Essary Rd. Knoxville, TN 37918. |>  |> >{} |>  |> As long as we're on the subject... Several years ago myself and two others |> were riding in the front of a Toyota pickup heading south on Interstate 5 |> north of Seattle, WA. Someone threw a rock of an overpass and hit our |> windshield. Not by accident I'm sure, it was impossible to get up to the |> overpass quickly to see who did it. We figured it was kids, reported it and |> left. |> A couple of years ago it happend again and killed a guy at my company. He was |> in his mid-fourties and left behind a wife and children. Turned out there was |> a reformatory for juviniles a few blocks away. They caught the 14 year old |> that did it. They put a cover over the overpass, what else could they do? |> I don't think I'll over forget this story.  In Des Moines, Iowa, about a year ago, some kid dropped a rock from an  overpass and hit car just behind the windshield.  It put a dent in the roof,  so I guess I was lucky it hit metal.  It's frustrating that we can't do much.  Bother the city government to put covers on all overpasses?  Slow down/speed up a bit when driving under all overpasses in the city?  I like the first better, but that will take time and lots of people talking to the city governments.  Just another .02...
Here is a story.  I bought a car about two weeks ago.  I finally can get hold of the previous owner of the car and got all maintanence history of the car.  In between '91 and '92, the instrument pannel  of the car has been replaced and the odometer also has been reset to zero.  Therefore, the true meter reading is the reading before replacement plus current mileage.  That shows 35000 mile difference comparing to the mileage on the odometer disclosure from.  The  dealer never told me anything about that important story.  I hope that I can return the car with full refund.  Do u think this is possible?  Does anyone have similar experiences?  Any comments will be appreciated.  Thanks.
Derek....  There is a tool available to reset the service indicator on BMWs but the lights will come back on after 2-3 weeks. The tool is in fact illegal (in Europe  atleast). It is often the case that the unsuspecting punter trots off to buy a  used BMW and a few weeks later, all the lights come on! Other than that, I know  of no other tool.... anyone else?   About changing oil every 15,000 miles.... thats ok.... on newer Audis, they  only require it after every 12,000 miles (I am talking about an oil change) Just a query: do you drive your car VERY VERY carefully? Like no sudden  acceleration etc? If yeah, then the 15,000 M oil change seems quite reasonable. But if you drive kinda fast... I'd get a bit up tight abot that 15,000 thingy  (a point to note: just because the first light came on at 3k, doesn't mean all the others will come on every 3k too)
I am presently doing a masters thesis to do with traffic intersections in  New Zealand but a lot of the books I am researching from, are from America or Australia and so I was wondering if anyone could please tell me what the road rules are in either country with regard to intersections.  Thanks Julian Visch jsv@math.canterbury.ac.nz
Hi fellow auto enthusiasts!  Does anyone have any info on the new 4 valve per cylinder diesels Mercedes is working on?  Any specs on outputs, engine size, will they be direct or  indirect injection?,  etc. would be welcome.  From what I hear these should  be out late this year, next year??  Thank you in advance for your replies!
In article <1993Apr22.204921.12644@convex.com>, tobias@convex.com (Allen Tobias) wrote: >  > I live in the backyard of the folks who make the Stalker radar system. The > Valentine 1 has saved me many, many, many times from the stealth revenue > enhancement traps of the local area. I have had all the major brand detectors, > and, IMHO, nothing else even comes close to the V1! >   I hadn't heard of the Valentine-1 before. Car&Driver and other auto magazines recommend BEL detectors.  I was considering their latest - the 966STi - which picks up Super Wideband Ka and Laser as well.  It also avoids  radar detector detectors (although I really don't care about this since I doubt I'll be driving in Virginia anytime soon - or have any other states also made detectors iilegal?)  How does the Valentine-1 compare with the BEL products?