waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <1993Apr22.195519.11104@convex.com> tobias@convex.com (Allen Tobias) writes: > >Better still, years ago they demonstrated a cold air system which only used >"air". It was called a Rovax. The unit worked very well, the short coming >was the seal technology. Where is it today?  Actually the company, and the product was ROVAC - which stood for ROTary Air Conditioning..it used a rotary compressor with what was effectively an air/air heat exchanger, and worked pretty well. The negatives were mostly that it was about 5-10% less efficient than using freon, and noise problems from the high velocity/pressure air, all of which were solved by the time the company went bankrupt.  It is still a legal entity in Florida, but I believe completely "dead".. and there's a heck of an opurtunity to buy up it's patents and restart the operation...
In article <C5sxI4.J9B@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: >gibbonsa@fraser.sfu.ca (Darren Gibbons) writes: > >>I'm looking for information on Opel cars.  Now you ask, which model? >>Well, the sad truth is, I'm not entirely sure, but it's a two-seater, >>with roll-over headlights, hard top, and really sporty looking. >>gibbonsa@sfu.ca >	 >	This would be the manta, would it not???  Sold through Buick dealers in the mid '70's as the price leader???? >	Chintan Amin   Sounds more like an Opel GT.  Neat cars, fun to drive.  Sold through Buick from 196? through 1973 (if I remember correctly).  I believe it was in '72 that there were some engine mods made such that parts were not interchangeable with the older models.  Parts are thus much harder to come by for the later models.  Parts in general are not too difficult to find.  At one time JC Whitney carried some stuff including a brand new (not remfg) long block.  Either a GT or a Kharman Ghia (hmm that spelling looks hosed) will be my next project.
My 1988 Toyota 4Runner has a rolldown rear window with a keylock switch.  It sticky on me.  Yesterday it was tough to get the key to work and it also happened to stick on in the up direction so the stalled motor was powered all night killing the battery.  I'd like to try to lubricate the lock switch. What should I lubricate the lock with?  email please,   thanx, Ken. --  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Don't drink American corporate swill.  Support you local micro-brewery." -me
In a previous article, gwm@spl1.spl.loral.com (Gary W. Mahan) says:  >>Why should a good driver be terrified at 130mph? The only thing I fear >>going at 130 are drivers, who switch to the left lane without using >>either rear-view-mirror or flashers. Doing 130 to 150 ain't a rush >>for me, but it's fun and I get where I want to go much faster. > >In defense of the drivers, who are in the right lane.  Here in the states, people simply do not expect when they are driving to be overtaken at a speed differential of 50+mph.  I don't think this is because they are stupid (of course, there are exceptions), they are just programmed because of the 55mph limit. Do you (in the states) when you look in the rear-view ALWAYS calculate future  positions of cars based on a 50+ speed differential.   >Dont get me wrong, I love to drive in the left lane fast but when I overtake >cars who are on the right, I slow down a tad bit. If I were to rely on the judgement of the other car, to recognize the speed differential, I would be the stupid one.    just to satiate my curiosity, why would this make you the stupid one?  It seems to me, everybody SHOULD be aware enough of what is going on.  You do not need to calculate the future position.  You need to look at your mirrors a little more.  If you glance around, you will be able to tell how much faster than you the car is going.  Maybe not precisely, but well enough to know if you should let him around before you try to pass.  I know what you are talking about, about the other driver being startled, because i myself have been startled by drivers cruising by at around 90-100mph when i'm doin 55-65.  The problem, though, as i saw it, was not their fault for barreling around me, but my fault for not paying the attention to my task-at-hand that i should have been. Oddly enough, since the 2nd time(happened 2x in around 4 mo. when i'd had my liscence for around 6 mo), i haven't been startled..and i've been passed by cars doing roughly twice the speed of my car.  Another odd occurance is the fact that this only seems to happen on LONG trips...and if i drive along with them, it doesn't happen at all :-) even on the long trips! :-)  (adrenaline will do that to you...i've had bad cop experiences with speeding, so anything over the limit is adrenalizing for me...scared i'll get caught :-)  Maybe they should raise the limit, so we can pay better attention.....  just curious, and my .otwo
In article <1993Mar30.203846.85644@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> jh03@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JUN HE) writes: >In article <1993Mar26.221840.1204@nosc.mil>, koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. > Koziarz) writes: >>In article <51300059@hpscit.sc.hp.com> chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles) wr >ites: >> >> >>>      Consumers report did a study I think and found that most >>>trucks got worse mileage with the tailgate off. The tailgates on the >>>newer trucks actually help. >> >>oh, sure they do...  and replacing the front bumper and grille with a closet >>door helps mileage *and* cooling.  *if* CR actually said that, then they have >>bigger fools working for them than the fools that believe their drivel...  but, >>who am I to argue this?  just someone that's been a pickup-driver for 20+ >>years, that's all.  forget the 'net', just take off the tailgate on hiway trips >>since the nets aren't designed to nor capable of restraining a load in the bed >>anyway.  around town, the tailgate will have a negligable effect on mileage >>anyway. >> >>Walt K. >> >They may help to improve mileage in some cases, I believe. With the tailgate >on the flow structure behind the cab may differ and the vortex drag may be >reduced during high speed driving.  How about those toneau covers? I've been thinking of building one from chipboard for roadtrips. Any comment on how they affect mileage in highway travel?  Charles
As you can see, I have two 1987 cars, both worth about $3000 each. The problem is that maintenance costs on these two cars is running about $4000 per year and insurance $3000 per year.  What am I doing wrong?  Within the last two months, the follows costs have occured:  Dodge 600 SE (Dodge's attempt at the American German car!)  $1,000 - replace head gasket $300   - new radiator  Chevy Nova CL (Chevy's attempt at a Japan import!)  $500 - tune-up,oil change,valve gasket,middle exhaust pipe, misc.  Note also that the Chevy Nova CL (1987) has only 70 horsepwer! Does anyone out there have a Chevy Nova with enough power to get up even a small hill without knocking? Is there something wrong with my car, I even use 93 octane gas! (I have consider going to 110 octane if I can find it!)  Anyway, what are the best maintenance items to do-it-yourself, and what equipment is needed?
In article <93111.12475032HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> John Foster <32HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> writes: >Date: Wednesday, 21 Apr 1993 12:47:50 EDT >From: John Foster <32HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> >Subject: Re: Changing oil by self. >>From: drew@kinglear.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt) >>In article <pod.734834505@sour.sw.oz.au> pod@sour.sw.oz.au (Paul O'Donnell) wri >>>In <1qgi8eINNhs5@skeena.ucs.ubc.ca> yiklam@unixg.ubc.ca (Yik Chong Lam) writes >>> >>>>Hello, > >I find this method much better myself, too, although I do really >hate it when the bolt finally comes loose and the wrench and my >hand both come crashing into my face.  After coming to, which is >about 15 minutes later, I change my clothes (because by this time >all the oil has drained *on* me), and ice my entire face and suck >down about 20 Tylenol to ease the pain.  Later in the day I then >proceed with refilling the engine oil. > >It's just crazy how I try and change the oil on my cars in one >weekend---I go through about 3 bottles of Tylenol and 2 bags of ice. > >John  Not everyone should be trusted with tools. ;-)
Talking about car alarms, there are certain cars in this country that are  only insurable if they are fitted with a Vecta alarm. We're talking Coswoths and Porsches and stuff. Just before they (the insurance companies) decided to  make this move, they insisted that the car be fitted with a Scorpion alarm ( now they've changed to the Vecta)... so everyone who's spent $$$ on fitting  the Scorpion alarm have founbd themselves having to upgrade to the Vecta system.
Anybody got any good/bad experience with selling their car through one of those car hunters?  I'm selling a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T and I was contacted by this company called the Markham group based out of Illinois.    They said they have 7-10 buyers in my area interested in my car or they wouldn't be talking to me.  They talked to me for a good 20 minutes asking everything about my car and said they could sell it no problem.  They guaranteed that if they didn't sell my car in 75 days, I would get my money back ($389) and since I charged it, I'm protected by federal law which states that if I'm not satisfied, I would get a refund (which is true).  They federal expressed all the paperwork  to me which had a contract stating their policy about the 75 days and such.
In article <1993Apr26.193657.10019@ultb.isc.rit.edu> adn6285@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes: >In article <1993Apr26.155800.29900@noao.edu>, groves@noao.edu (Lee Groves) writes: >> >>As the owner of an MR2, and having several friends who own them, >>I am very uncomfortable when I see an ad like this.  >>   ... >>When these seats are seen for sale, they are *most often* stolen. >>So it would be nice to see a statement saying where they came from. >>   ... >>I'll give this seller the benefit of the doubt, but people should be   ^^^  ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ >>aware the the vast majority of MR2 seats on the market--especially >>those that are in Celicas--are stolen. >> >I am the original owner of the seats and the original poster.  >  >I take VERY serious offence in your statement.  Me thinks thee dost protest too much....  1/2 :-) > .... >Please in the future think before you make allegations like the above.  He made no allegations, and specifically gave the seller the benefit of the doubt.  He simply made the net aware of the fact that many of these seats are stolen, so watch out and ask questions when buying.  That's good advice to follow when buying _anything_ from a third party, on the net or elsewhere. >It hurts. Touchy, touchy... >Mike.S
I offered to relay this information for a ham friend of mine without Internet access:  His name is Robert (Bob) Wondolowski, N1KDA, and his car was a  1985 Brown Cutlas Sierra Sedan, Massachusetts plate 716ADL.  His HT (Yaesu FT415) and mobile antenna were also included in the car. It was stolen from Lynn, Mass. about 10 days ago (being on April 6).  If anyone has any information about the car's whereabouts, please e-mail me.  Thank you for taking the time to read this message.   =============================================================================== | Scott Ehrlich 	       Internet: wy1z@world.std.com                   | | Amateur Radio: wy1z          Packet Radio: wy1z@k1ugm.ma.usa.na	      | ===============================================================================
In article <C5syDn.C2v@megatest.com> jao@megatest.com (John Oswalt) writes: >	[...] >However, if you agree some terms, and then, when about to sign, the >dealer slips you a contract with different terms, and leads you to >believe that it embodies the terms you verbally agreed to, that >is fraud.  There is no 3 day limit on restitution for fraud. > >You may have to sue (and win) to get out of this.  You will almost >certainly have to threaten to sue. >--   On the other hand, remember the old adage that a verbal agreement isn't worth the paper it's printed on.  Once you sign, you are going to have one hell of a time proving fraud based on a comparison to what you thought you were going to sign ...  Being in the right is one thing, proving it is another.
>While not exactly a service incident, I had a similar experience recently   >when I bought a new truck. > >I had picked out the vehicle I wanted and after a little haggling we   >agreed on a price. I wrote them a check for the down payment plus tax >and license and told them I'd be back that evening to pick up the truck.   >When I returned, I had to wait about an hour before the finance guy could   >get to me. When I finally got in there, everything went smoothly until he   >started adding up the numbers. He then discovered that they had   >miscalculated the tax & license by about $150.
In article <NEILSON.93Apr15135919@seoul.mpr.ca> neilson@seoul.mpr.ca (Robert Neilson) writes: >[sorry for the 0 auto content, but ... ] > >> That is why low-abiding citizens should have the power to protect themselves >> and their property using deadly force if necessary anywhere a threat is  >> imminent. >> >> Steve Heracleous > >You do have the power Steve. You *can* do it. Why don't you? Why don't you >go shoot some kids who are tossing rocks onto cars? Make sure you do a good >job though - don't miss - 'cause like they have big rocks - and take it from >me - those kids are mean.  That is absolutely correct.  They have a streak of meanness that runs much deeper and stronger than anything I ever experienced even during the height of the 60's racial struggles.  I am absolutely convinced that there are kids out there today that have no concept of right and wrong, but have the human intelligence which is turning them into the greatest predators that have ever walked the earth.  They will prevail unless the rest of humanity decides that it is in their best interest to stand up against these feral humans, and for individuals to start taking some responsibility for their own protection.  In a state in which the individuals turn to the authorities and police for protection, the police and government is soon composed of the very feral humans that they originally sought protection from.  Gee, I guess you touched my hot button.  I'd better go cool off somewhere.
hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo) writes:  >> >So, I block the would-be passers. Not only for my own good ,  >>      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >> >but theirs as well even though they are often too stupid to realize it. >>  !!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ !!! >> >As a rule of philosophy, I don't feel particularly sorry when somebody gets  >> >offed by his own stupidity, but It does worry me when some idiot is in a  >> >position to cash in my chips, too. >> >                                                           H.H. Mayo >>  >> zdem0a@hgo7.hou.amoco.com (Donna Martz) writes: >> Well, Aren't we just Mr. Altruism himself!!   Just what the world needs, >> another frustrated self appointed traffic cop.  hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo) writes: >Well, if you want to stick the nose of your car up the ass of a 50 foot semi,  >I suppose it's your neck, however, I'm not going to let you kill me in the  >bargain.  If you get frustrated by somebody delaying your inevitable death  >due to less that wise driving practices, then TOUGH!!!  Well, I never wrote that I would act as you described.  I stated that I  would not block a would-be passer.  I would not block a would-be passer "for their own good" or for any reason other than I was prevented from  doing so due to the traffic circumstance.  I fail to see how deterring a passer under these circumstance would IN ANY WAY decrease YOUR chances of being involved in an accident, fatal or otherwise.  In fact, I could imagine how blocking a would-be passer would actually INCREASE your  chances of being "offed" or involved in an accident, especially if  this "passer" is riding your bumper.  Intentionally blocking a person riding your bumper is certainly NOT a "wise driving practice", it  only causes the jam to become more congested.    I don't mess with trucks and I actually watch the road ahead AND the  road behind!   If I perceive that I am rapidly closing on a "pack"  of vehicles, I try to avoid getting caught up in situation such as you  decribe.  Usually either traffic is just building and I have to deal  with this fact of life, or I wait to a slow passer to complete their  pass and make way for the pack to clear.  If someone decides then to  pull up on my bumper, I signal my intention to move to the right, and  do so at the first opportunity (& hope they will open the jam).  I  feel this is not only courteous driving, but ALOT safer than the  actions you advocate!!!  There are actually many courteous drivers  on the road who do not intentionally impede others.
daubendr@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Darren R Daubenspeck) writes:   >> they are pretty much junk, stay away from them.  they will be replaced next >> year with all new models.     >Junk?  They've made the C&D lists for years due to their excellent handling and   >acceleration.  They have been around since about, oh, 85 or 86, so they're not   >the newest on the lot, and mileage is about five to eight MPG under the class   >leader.  You can get into a 3.0 L v-6 (141 hp) Shadow for $10~11K (the I-4   >turbo a bit more), and a droptop for $14~15K.
In article <1993Apr8.233443.22590@exu.ericsson.se>, exulox@exu.ericsson.se (Lasse Ohlsson, T/TDT, 1129) writes: > In article 23250@cas.org, sdm24@cas.org () writes: > >IMHO, the dumbest thing we *ever* did in copying the Japanese was moving the > >dimmer switch from the floor to the lever controlling the turn signal/cruise   The federal government has mandated that all passenger cars by model year '95 return to the floor mounted dimmer switch.  A study by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has found that an unacceptable percentage of after dusk collisions were the direct result of unskilled drivers getting their left foot stuck in the steering wheel :-)  --  Ron Gaskins                                 c23reg@koptsw21.delcoelect.com Automotive Electronic Systems               Delco Electronics GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904
In article <1993Apr6.185328.24947@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes: >In article <1993Apr6.180456.17573@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen) writes: >>In article <1993Apr06.133319.7008@metrics.com> tomh@metrics.com (Tom Haapanen) writes: >>>CHINTS@ISCS.NUS.SG writes: >>>> Here are "another" ten reasons why we should all love CR >> >>Or the spectacle of "Macho Real Men" who would never bother to read the >>magazine but are more than apt to criticize it. >> > >But that's the point.  We _do_ read it, or at least we did.  Then we >found that their recommendations were useless and uninformed.  Then we >write lists.  The CR flame war is so easy to start because they are so >wrong and claim to be so right and so thorough. > >-andy > >  Ok if you are so right, name a few good examples that were brought up.   john
In <1993Apr14.045526.21945@cactus.org> boyle@cactus.org (Craig Boyle) writes:  >In article <1qg19v$5ju@umcc.umcc.umich.edu> mhartman@umcc.umcc.umich.edu (Mark Hartman) writes: >> >> I don't know why you are complaining about 130.  Alot of us have cars that >>can easily top that. Most that go 130 are built to do it also and can handle >>the speed.  Why complain and just join in on the fast fun ?  Can I ask. >>Have any of you been at the speed of 130 ?  Its a rush.  >Driving 130 in a straight line is fine, you very soon become aclimated  >to it. It's only a rush when there are corners that you don't >think you can make.  >On a clear autobahn, 130 is nothing. In the U.S. 99% of people and >all judges would label you insane and it is difficult to persuade >people otherwise.  Sure, but the surface condition of most good autobahns is far better than most of the roads here. A dip in the asphalt that you test your shocks on at 60 will kill you at 130. Don't get me wrong, I love to drive quickly and they say my Probe will do 130, but that's 30 more than I've ever tried in it cause there isn't a decent enough piece of road hereabouts.  >Craig >> >>--  >>   Mark Hartman         mhartman@umcc.umcc.umich.edu >>   Kalamazoo, MI        bk405@cleveland.freenet.edu >>    "I'm naked in the school!" - Sleepyhead - >>
In article <5214@unisql.UUCP> wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie) writes: >In article <chrissC587qB.D1B@netcom.com> chriss@netcom.com (Chris Silvester) writes: > >>WAGON, which I have heard is somehow slightly faster than the Coupe. > >	Wagon has an automatic, it's slower. > Could be due to the rear-end ratio also.    Usually automatics have different rear-ends than manuals, from my limited experience anyways.  David > >
Can taking the car to a car wash hurt the car's finish?  And if so, is it better to hand wash it about once a month, or just take it  to the car wash anyway?  Are detailing places worth the money?  if i do a good, careful job on washing and waxing, is a detail place going to be worth it?  reply to my email address: pfk1@crux1.cit.cornell.edu  pk4
>In article <1993Apr21.160341.24707@westminster.ac.uk>, jkjec@westminster.ac.uk (Shazad Barlas) writes: >|> I just wanted to know: >|>  >|> To wheelspin in an auto, you keep the gear in N - gas it - then stick the  >|> gear in D... I've never tried this but am sure it works - but does this screw  >|> up the autobox? We're having a bit of a debate about it here... > > >Ah yes,  the neutral slam. > >I know that GM tested the old th400's and th350's by shifting from reverse to >forward gears repeatedly while holding the engine at high rpms.  the units hold >up incredibly well.  This is also the recommended technique to "rock" a stuck >vehicle out of the mud.  I think the hydraulics are up to the task, but the >mechanicals of the driveline may object by breaking something. > >$0.02 > >Ericy  I agree about the durability of the old TH400 trannies from GM.  While I  never intentionally slamed my '68 Firebird 400 ci Conv. into gear, I would leave  the trannie in Low (read 1st), grab hold, hit the pedal, and once the tires  grabbed, take off.  When I reached about 57-60mph the turbo 400 Auto would  shift to S (read 'super' or 2nd) and leave about 10 to 15 foot of double  stripped rubber on the ground.  Most everyone I knew at the time was quite  impressed with 'peeling' out at 60 MPH.  The trannie held up just fine. Motor mounts would last about a year until I tied the motor down with large chains.  Oh yea,FYI:    Pontiac 400 ci bored 0.04 over                            Large Valve heads                         Holley 650 Spread bore                         Crain 'BLAZER' cam (don't remember the specs)                         PosiTrac, Hooker headers, Dual exhaust                         Get this (Conv., leather seats, power windows                                   power top, AC, Cruise etc.)     Oh yea, I also pulled the 'Cocktail shakers' (weights) from the front   and removed the lead pellet from the accelerator pedal. (Damn US regulations)     OH, HOW I MISS THAT CAR!!!    -- 0-60 under 6.7 sec  and about 6 to 14 mpg (well I don't miss the mpg)   -- front wheels 4" off the ground with three quick jabs at the pedal.   -- bent pushrods, stripped rocker studs,  every 6-12 months       ( I really wonder what kind of rev's I was turning - no tach) Re: Improvements in Automatic Transmissions   Anyone seen one of these lately?  I'd buy it back in a sec!!!
In article <1993Apr23.105438.3245@msus1.msus.edu> w00026@TIGGER.STCLOUD.MSUS.EDU writes: >First off, the correct spelling of Nissan's luxury automobile division >is "Infiniti" not "Infinity."  I would also like to clear up the question >of what kind of engines power Lexus and Infiniti automobiles, since a >person had remarked in earlier posts that most Lexus and Infiniti models >had V6 engines, while at the same time saying that several of each >manufacturer used V8 engines. > >Lexus: >  LS400- V8 >  GS300- V6 >  ES300- V6 >  SC400- V8 >  SC300- V6  The GS300 and SC300 have an inline 6.  > >Infiniti: >  Q45- V8 >  J30- V6 >  G20- inline 4 (I must admit that I cannot remeber for sure here)  Inline 4 is correct.  > >I hope this helps. > >-BSB