waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article 6746@mprgate.mpr.ca, vanderby@mprgate.mpr.ca (David Vanderbyl) writes:  :Lighter fluid is butane.  It's absolutely non-toxic but is an extreme fire          ^^^^^    ^^^^^^        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :hazard.  You definately don't want to go splashing this stuff around. :(Use a little on an old rag.)  Butane : "A colourless flammable gaseous alkane..."  Non-toxic? It has some effects when you inhale, allegedly, which can't all be down to asphyxia (IMHO).     ---
I want to run SPICE on my XT so I can learn more about amplifiers and oscilators. Is there a version of this that will run on my XT with no math co-processer, if so where can I get it? Thanks for any and all help!  Jeff
I need to find a UART that will interface to an 8051 and do the following: 	-250k baud, 8 data bits, 2 stop bits, no parity 	-ability to do BREAK detect (IRQ or output pin) 	-IRQ on character received  I'm using a Dallas DS2250 at 16 Mhz (8051 clone), but it won't do  break detect.  I've looked at the 6850, 8251, 7201, 2661, etc...
In article <1qmisf$odp@sdl.Warren.MENTORG.COM>, garyg@warren.mentorg.com (Gary Gendel) writes: > In article 1834@cmkrnl.com, jeh@cmkrnl.com writes: >>What you CAN do if you want three-prong outlets without additional wiring is  >>to use a GFCI outlet (or breaker, but the outlet will be cheaper).  In fact, >>depending on where you are putting your new outlet(s), a GFCI may be *required*. >  > You still need to supply a proper ground for a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter!  Not according to the NEC nor the CEC, as explained in the electrical wiring  FAQ, which I posted here separately.  Note the material under the headings  > Subject: How do I convert two prong receptacles to three prong?  and  > Subject: Are you sure about GFCIs and ungrounded outlets? > 	Should the test button work?  Of course, as they said -- "Local codes may vary".   > So rewiring is still a part of this job, however, the ground may be connected to > a local earth ground, rather than back at the breaker box.  I'm not sure about this.  If the ground connections on the outlets are connected to anything, they should be connected to a wire that runs back to the main panel, where it is bonded to the neutral connector and to the house ground rod.  A connection to a local earth ground would not necessarily meet one of the goals of the ground wire, which is that if a short develops from hot to the ground wire, enough current would flow to trip the breaker.    Hmmm.  How are those orange "isolated ground" outlets (often used in computer rooms) wired?
In article <1993Apr25.094202.3978@lugb.latrobe.edu.au>, MATGBB@LURE.LATROBE.EDU.AU (BYRNES,Graham) writes: > In <sasrer.735576383@cinnamon> sasrer@unx.sas.com writes: >> services we offered was an engine cleaning (remove all that oil BEFORE you >> sell the car...  ;-}). Unfortunately, we did not have a high pressure ......... >>  > This definately gets the car going, but... WD-40 is highly flammable. Explosive > even in the right conditions, like a vapour sealed inside a distributor for > eg. And contact points tend to arc a tiny bit :) >  > I once saw the alternator/points cover blow completely off a motorcycle after > it had been restored to life with WD-40... fun to watch > (It was a Honda MR-50 minibike and the cover is only held on by large rubber  > grommet, so it wasn't really a big blast.) >        Graham B > PS As a more serious aside, it is apparently also conductive, so it is best  > to exercise caution with it around mains wiring. >                                                  I, some years ago, almost became a victim of this.  Squirted a fair amount in an old model 15 Teletype which was acting up, then turned it on.  The eruption when the motor starting contacts broke was mighty spectacular... I almost got my eyebrows singed, the plastic (old ones had safety glass) cover over the platen, etc flew across the room, and several people in the room almost had heart attacks.  Beware the explosive properties of WD40 vapor.
I need help on 4 components:  BAT85 diode ----------- I know Digi-key or Newark sells them, but the minimum order is 25! Does anyone know where I can get smaller orders of this diode, or an equivalent replacement?  BC546B transistor ----------------- Ditto for this transistor.  74HC239 chip ------------ Digi-key, Newark and Mouser do not appear to carry ths chip - does anyone know what this does and where I can obtain it?  YM3623B chip ------------ This Yamaha chip decodes S/PDIF data (from CD or DAT). Where can I obtain one of these?
In article <1qug3sINN90g@rave.larc.nasa.gov> kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey) writes:  >I have a MOSFET pulled out of a Trygon power supply, for which I have no  >manual.  It's a Motorola part with a 1972 date code and the number  >               285-4  >which the Motorola folks assure me is a house number, which they can't >help me with.  Any suggestions from folks out there?  I can't put it on >a curve tracer to try to get an equivalent, since it's completely shot. >--scott Since your MOSFET is a 1972 vintage, it's probably not a very good one by  today's standards.  If you have an idea about its voltage and current  ratings, e.g. 60VDC @ 6A, you can probably get away with replacing it with  anything with better specs.  Early MOSFETS had a gate-source voltage rating  of approximately +/- 20 VDCmax, and they would usually turn completely "ON"  at +10VDC.  Otherwise, MOSFETS are not really mysterious -- they're more or  less voltage controlled current sources.  If the MOSFET in your circuit is  used as an open-loop, voltage controlled current source, you may have to  experiment with various gain-altering techniques.
In article <C5uC68.19K@zoo.toronto.edu> henry@zoo.toronto.edu (Henry Spencer) writes: > >This may be a safety issue; the CSA is more paranoid in certain areas than >UL and such.  Two caps in series means that you don't have a short if one >of them shorts.  Not necessarily true; a short in one, if near the maximum series voltage drop, will overvoltage the other one and short it too, more
Does anybody have informations about the   W 86 C 451   and  W 86 C 456 chips (40pin DIL pckg)?  They are build in a multifunction io-card for pc.  Thanks           Dirk --  ------------------------------------------------------------ Dirk Junghanns                    junghanns@rz.tu-ilmenau.de
d9bertil@dtek.chalmers.se (Bertil Jonell) writes: >  Son of the Return of the "How much does Americans know about the rest of >the word?"-flamewar anyone?  Let's save some bandwidth, skip the intermediate articles and go straight to the Nazis and Hitler :-)  (we do have wall sockets, thank you, and they're better than yours)
In article <sehari.735357542@du139-213.cc.iastate.edu> sehari@iastate.edu     (Babak Sehari) writes:   [stuff deleted] >Also, at this low price I can not afford people make too many copy of my >software. Well, I guess say upto %20 illigal copying is ok by me.  You should be clear in your mind what your goal is. Two possible goals are (1) maximizing you income from your program, and (2) minimizing the number of illegal copies which get created. Accomplishing (2) doesn't usually accomplish (1).  Most vendors have concluded that copy protection reduces the number of normal legitimate sales by far more than it increase sales by virtue of changing 'copiers' to 'purchasers', and hence merely reduces revenue.  Most legitimate buyers nowadays (including me) have had bad experiences with copy protected products (e.g., hard to make a legitimate backup, incompatabilties when new system on system upgrade, etc.), and they won't touch them with a ten foot pole.
Just a thought........Maybe it possibly has to do with the fact that it IS an Emerson.  I've got an Emerson VCR which is #6 in the series.  Returned it six times for various and never the same problems.  Got tired of taking it  back and fixed it myself.  The Hi-Fi "window" was a bit off.  Something like the Hi-Fi audio fine-tuning.  When I was a Wal-Mart "associate" in '88-'89, we had AT LEAST one returned as defective EVERY SINGLE DAY.  How's that for reliability?  Face it--Emerson can make audio stuff (albeit not of premium quality), but they CAN'T make anything as complex as video equipment with  reliability IMHO.  Please, no flames.  Just *had* to share my Emerson disaster in the light of this exploding tv.   JC
I live up in British Columbia, Canada.The cable company I use is called Rogers Cable. Does anyone know of their scrambling techniques, and ways of getting around them? Any suggestions of what they might use?
crichmon@sedona.intel.com (Chris Richmond) writes: >Well, my house was built just last year, and the breaker box is wired the >same way.  All the white and ground wires are on a common bus.  Except for >the 220V circuits, only black wires are hooked to the breakers.  It was >the same way in the last two houses I had also.  Are you sure this is wrong? >I still have the building inspector's signature on the breaker box.  The point is that the original poster was talking about connecting ground and neutral in the *outlet* box (big NO NO), and you are talking about them being connected in the breaker box (as things should be).  If this is not obvious, the point is that there should be current flow in the white, i.e. neutral/return wires when things in the house are operating.  There should not be any flow in the ground wires unless there is a fault condition.  Notice also that in the breaker box there is a wire leading from the above-mentioned junction to earth ground, usually a pipe or spike driven into the ground.
In article <C5Hs5J.AG7@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, rgc3679@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Robert G. Carpenter) writes:  |> It seems reasonable to me that a microwave transmitter-receiver setup could  |> do the job. For example, say you want to map an acre lot, it'd be convenient |> to place MW transmitters around the lot's periphery (either 2 or 3) and then |> carry a hand-held recorder and walk to a point on the lot, press a button and |> the coords of the recorder's location is stored as digital data. |>  |> What's the chance of this working? Any systems like this already exist? |> What kind of accuracy could you expect? What would something like this |> cost to prototype? Is there a better alternative than microwaves?  Of course you could develope this system, but there is already a system called Global Positioning Satellites.  It gives three dimensional coordinates anywhere on earth.  Many surveyors use this system with a differential receiver/transmitter to get coordinates within centimeters.  Basic receivers with resolution of a few meters (on a good day) are available from many sources.   --  WMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMWMW    \_      \_  \_\_\_    \_\_\_               Weston R Beal    \_      \_  \_    \_  \_    \_         sldf3@sol.ee.usu.edu     \_  \_  \_  \_\_\_    \_\_\_            sldf3@cc.usu.edu      \_\_  \_\_  \_  \_    \_    \_       Electrical Engineer       \_      \_  \_    \_  \_\_\_       Utah State University    "That's the wonderful thing about crayons; they can take you to    more places than a starship can."    - Guinon
In article <C5yqDE.Cq0@ecf.toronto.edu> gladman@ecf.toronto.edu (GLADMAN AVIV) writes: > >That's why you >don't find blue LEDs or, for that matter, some other colour of LEDs. That >is not to say that blue LEDs can't be found.  I've seen 'blue' LEDs sold, >but they were just your typical visible light LED in a blue plastic covering. >They didn't emit very much light... > Sorry Charlie...  I have a dozen, VERY blue LED's on my bench right now. They have a clear plastic case and when lit, are absolutely BLUE. The hue is sort of a "summer day cloudless sky blue" but make no mistake, they are blue.  You can buy them from Digikey, Circuit Specialist, Jameco (I think), LED-Tronics, Stanley Optoelectronics, and others. The current price is around $2.50 each for small quantities. I will also be selling them through my mail-order company in the near future (4 weeks). Write for details if interested.
In article <1qmisf$odp@sdl.Warren.MENTORG.COM> garyg@warren.mentorg.com writes: >> >>What you CAN do if you want three-prong outlets without additional wiring is  >>to use a GFCI outlet (or breaker, but the outlet will be cheaper).  In fact, >>depending on where you are putting your new outlet(s), a GFCI may be *required*. > >You still need to supply a proper ground for a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter!  Oddly enough, you don't, at least according to the wiring FAQ that is regularly posted on misc.consumers.house.  A GFCI senses discrepancies between the live and neutral wire currents, and cuts them both off if a discrepancy is found.  No ground connection is needed for it to function.
Hello,      Let me introduce a problem:     When I measure a sinusoidal wave (voltage) with a digital voltmeter, using  AC mode, my output is an rms value (a peak value over 2 squared). / Right? /     When I measure a square wave in the same mode (AC), my output is equal  to a peak value, actually, to the upper flat boundary of the wave.    I assumed, that a digital voltmeter makes some kind of integration of the  input value, and divides it over the wave period. / Right?/    Now, I used it to measure the same  square wave as above, but distorted  by high-frequency harmonics. Ideally, output should be the same, but... The output value was only about 10% of the previous one!     Why? What is the nature of this output value? What does the voltmeter  actually measure? And what does it show?       Related question (less important to me):    What are advantages and disadvantages of digital voltmeters to compare with  analog ones?      Thank you for your attention, you could mail me your opinion at avm1993@zeus.tamu.edu or open a discussion here. I would appreciate either  way.   Alexander V. Mamishev  ____________________________________________________________________________ Power System Automation Laboratory    <>   phone office (409) 845-4623     Department of Electrical Engineering  <>   phone home   (409) 846-5850 Texas A&M University                  <>   fax   (409) 862-2282 College Station, TX 77843, USA        <>   Internet: avm1993@zeus.tamu.edu
Here's a question for all you electrical engineers out there:    I bought an 'Infrared detector module' at Radio Shack for $3.95 - it is a  little gizmo that senses infrared remotes and produces an output signal. Then I hooked the output through a transistor to an infrared LED. The circuit works like a minature remote control extender in my car - All remote commands are relayed to the CD player hidden in the glove compartment. It works fine with my Denon CD player, but when I tried to build the same circuit for a friend's VCR, it didn't work.   The circuit appears to work for other remotes (you can see infrared with a Sony CCD camcorder) but coincidentally it only seems to work for my CD player...  	Any advice would be appreciated....         Brian
I have a spare Fluke 8062A.  This is a true RMS digital meter with 4.5 digit display.  It's in "average" condition (been used) but  works fine - which is what Fluke's are all about.   BTW - according to the fellow who designed these meters, they can be converted to 8060A function by clipping a jumper, and adding the 2 extra switches.. Like I said $115 seems fair - these sell for $300+ new.
If anyone would have a low quantity distributer for these little  beasts (3479P) by Motorola, please let me know!   _______________________________________________                  |                                 |    _______   |    Baden de Bari                |   /       \  |     baden@sys6626.bison.mb.ca   |  (| o   o |) |     baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca   |   |   ^   |  | >> True life can only           |   \  -=-  /  | >> be experianced by            |    \_____/   | >> those who do not fear death. |
In article <1993Apr19.194525.3888@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov> bday@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov (Brian Day) writes: >mcole@spock (COLE) writes: > >>I would like to experiment with the INTEL 8051 family.  Does anyone out   >>there know of any good FTP sites that might have compiliers, assemblers,   >>etc.? > >Try lyman.pppl.gov -- /pub/8051  Great.  This site is a complete shadow of the Signetics BBS 8051 directory.  Thanks Brian, --  Mont Pierce
In article <1993Apr14.172145.27458@ecsvax.uncecs.edu>, crisp@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Russ Crisp) writes: > I'm considering modernizing some old wiring in my home, and > I need a little advice on outlet wiring.  Several outlets > are the old 'two prong' type, without the ground.  Naturally, > the wire feeding these outlets is 12/2, WITHOUT the ground > wire.  I noticed at the fusebox that some circuits have the > 12/2 with ground, and that on these circuits, the ground > wire was tied to the same bus as the neutral (white) wire. >  > SO..  Here's my question.  It seems to me that I'd have the > same electrical circuit if I hooked the jumper from the neutral > over to the ground screw on new 'three prong' grounding outlets. > What's wrong with my reasoning here?    No.  No.  NOOO!!!  The ground (green) wire is for safety.  No current is supposed to flow in it under normal conditions.  This means that there's normally no voltage drop in it either.  It is supposed to be safe to touch the ground wire... even if you're grounded in some other way at the same time.    The neutral (white) wire is, as Dave Vanderbyl correctly said, the return for the hot wire.  Since current flows in it, there's a voltage drop.  If you plug a heavy load into a properly-wired grounded outlet, you can commonly  measure a volt or so of difference between neutral and ground.    They are supposed to be connected together at the breaker panel... but nowhere, repeat NOwhere, else.  (Well, almost.  There are strange exceptions for things like sub-panels.)  What you CAN do if you want three-prong outlets without additional wiring is  to use a GFCI outlet (or breaker, but the outlet will be cheaper).  In fact, depending on where you are putting your new outlet(s), a GFCI may be *required*.  There is a FAQ on electrical wiring, posted regularly to rec.woodworking and news.answers.  It goes into great detail on these issues (including GFCIs) and you should probably read it before asking any more questions.  I'll mail a copy to you, append a copy here, and will ask the writers to cross-post it here in the future.
In article <1rk733$ekv@slack.sim.es.com> pashdown@slack.sim.es.com (Pete Ashdown) writes: > >I've bothered the rental shops and audio shops about the problem, but most of >them have precious little experience in dealing with generated power.  My >suspicion is that I don't really need anything larger than 2KW and this could >all be resolved with a transformer of some sort.  Nope.  Your problem is either being caused by excessive voltage drop in the long cable from the generator, or just plain not having enough power.  I would suspect that those amps are going to draw a lot of current on short peaks.  You can try using larger (and shorter) cables to the generator, or try strapping the amps for 240V service and running 240V mains cables out, which will minimize the line drop.  If these don't work, though, you're going to need a bigger generator.  I assume that you're using well-maintained generators, and have watched the voltage output on the generator properly.  If you don't have 120V coming out of the unloaded generator you'll never get 120V at the other end.  >Can anyone offer any advice?  I want to do a lot of outdoor events this >summer, and it would be nice if this power problem could be resolved easily. >I've been looking into buying a power-pack so I could tap into junction boxes >directly, but have no idea where to start.  One that would resolve my >generator problems as well would be of high value to me.
What is Pink noise and how is it used in sound experiments? -tony  wayne@uva386.schools.virginia.edu
I have a thermal fuse from a Apple Laserwriter II power supply (Made by Cannon) that I need to replace.  The fuse is not the standard tubular thermal fuse like those found in hair driers etc, but is a  rectangular plastic package, much like a transistor or diode.  It is about 0.2"x0.2"x0.1", with both leads coming out of one of the 0.1"x0.1" sides.  I have been told that it was made by MITI, a asian company, but I can find no information as to a supplier.  This fuse is rated at 1A, 130C.  Does anyone have a source for this fuse?  I only need 5 or so, which means that the manufacturer wouldn't even want to talk to me, let alone, deal with me.  Please advise via E-mail.  Thanks, Pat
: While driving through the middle of nowhere, I picked up KNBR, AM 1070, : a clear-channel station based in Los Angeles. They had an ad  : claiming that they were able to get traffic flow information from  : all of the thousands of traffic sensors that CalTrans has placed : under the pavement. Does CalTrans sell this info? Does KNBR have : an exclusive? What's the deal?  : ==Doug "Former L.A. commuter" Claar  You were right the second time, it is KNX. Believe it or not, I also listen to KNX in the evenings here in Colorado! It's kind of fun driving through the country listening to traffic jams on the 405. Back to your original question. Yes, there are sensors just past every on-ramp and off-ramp on the freeways. They're the same sensors used at most stoplights now (coils in the pavement). You might want to give CalTrans a call or even ask Bill Keene (KNX's traffic reporter). I doubt if just anyone can get the information, but it would be worth asking just in case you can get it.
The Bmw speedo is triggered by a reed switch\magnet assembly in the differential. I would think that this signal would be easy to reproduce.