waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <jcn-210493180052@lactose.rice.edu> jcn@rice.edu writes:  >And speaking of shims, why would the clearance of the valves get smaller, >i.e. >need the use of a thinner shim? >  Valve seat wear?   Tony
In article <1993Apr23.212827.19642@PacBell.COM> jscosta@srv.PacBell.COM (Jon Costa) writes:   >When riding in a group, generally speaking, do most people mind when >another rider tags along?  >I had the distinct feeling I may not have been welcome when I tagged  >along with a group last weekend.  Yer welcome to ride with me and my friends any time.  Just introduce your  self at the earliest opportunity and say "Mind if I rid with you guys?"   ----===== DoD #8177 = Technician(Dr. Speed) .NOT. Student =====----
I tried mailing you but your domain seems not to exist, can't even get  sinet.slb.com to admit to knowing about geco, anyway here we go:  In article <1q7kq1INNjl9@griffin.orpington.sgp.slb.com> you wrote:  : Subject:GPz900 runs like a bitch. :    Anyone have a cure for sub zero running probs on a GPz 900. : Anything below 3000 revs and the bike wants to cut out all the time, : the recommended cure in the bike mags seems to be to switch off the engine : for a minute to thaw the ice,but this is obviously not mutch of a cure. : mine has had the kawasaki heated carb mod but the problem persists, : i've covered the rad which makes the bike run warmer and moves the problem : down the temp scale a degree or two. :    Has anyone tried a dynojet kit on the 900 or (getting desperate) different : carbs or the fuel injection off the GPz 1100. :  Have you talked to Kawasaki, maybe they did another version of the upgrade kit.  Got to be worth a phone call.  Did you do the carb mod or did you buy it secondhand from someone who said that it had been done.  Is that Orpington in Kent?  If so have you heard of the Ogri mailing list which I run?  Its an email list for bikers in the UK and interested parties, available live or as a daily digest.  Let me know if you want to subscribe.  Good luck, Dave
In article uupcb@compdyn.questor.org, ryan_cousineau@compdyn.questor.org (Ryan Cousineau) writes: > >Another good place for your helmet is your mirror (!). I kid you not. If >you own a typical standard or other bike with fairly average mirrors >that screw into your handlebars, your helmet should fit over your mirror >and be fairly stable  Be careful that you do not have any weight of the helmet resting on the mirror.  It will depress the foam liner in the helmet.  That is not the kind of foam that bounces back, like foam rubber.  Its purpose in life is to absorb energy in an impact as it is compressed by your noggin. If your mirror compresses it, there is that much less energy absorbing capacity left to cushon your noggin in a crash.  I found the right handlebar to be a good spot, if on the sidestand. Hang with the chinbar facing up, balanced across the grip and brake lever such that the weight of the helmet doesn't compress any of the chinbar foam.  This is more challanging with an open face helmet.
nielsmm@imv.aau.dk (Niels Mikkel Michelsen) writes:  >Did I do the right thing?  Denmark, eh?  Should have taken a short sword and cleaved his car in half.  Since I assume you didn't have a short sword on you, I certainly have no problems with your choice of substitute action.
In article <1993Apr20.235735.23007@bnr.ca> MBEAVING@BNR.CA writes: >|>  >|> So, Take you own advice and wuit you whining about >|> flames. >|>  > >No brains and he can't spell either. > >.edu?? I hope you're not a student at Duke... >you would be wasting your tuition. > > >=================================================== >= The Beav |Mike Beavington| Dod:9733             = >= V65Sabre     mbeaving@bnr.ca                    = >= My employer has no idea what I'm talking about! = >===================================================  OOOoooh, complaining about my spelling.  I'm _so_ hurt.  No I'm not a student.  I'm an alumnus.  And an employee.  So I can get my money _back_ from these grubs.  BNR, huh?  I hope you're not a permanent, they'd be wasting benefits on you.  pthptptphhph!
In article 7290@rd.hydro.on.ca, jlevine@rd.hydro.on.ca (Jody Levine) writes: >>> >>>how _do_ the helmetless do it? >> >>Um, the same way people do it on  >>horseback > >not as fast, and they would probably enjoy eating bugs, anyway  Every bit as fast as a dirtbike, in the right terrain.  And we eat flies, thank you.  >>jeeps > >you're *supposed* to keep the windscreen up  then why does it go down?  >>snow skis > >NO BUGS, and most poeple who go fast wear goggles  So do most helmetless motorcyclists.  >The question still stands. How do cruiser riders with no or negligible helmets >stand being on the highway at 75 mph on buggy, summer evenings?  helmetless != goggleless
In article <1993Apr19.154020.24818@i88.isc.com>, jeq@lachman.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes: |> In article <2514@tekgen.bv.tek.com> davet@interceptor.cds.tek.com (Dave Tharp CDS) writes: |> >In article <1993Apr15.171757.10890@i88.isc.com> jeq@lachman.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes: |> >>Rolls-Royce owned by a non-British firm? |> >> |> >>Ye Gods, that would be the end of civilization as we know it. |> > |> >  Why not?  Ford owns Aston-Martin and Jaguar, General Motors owns Lotus |> >and Vauxhall.  Rover is only owned 20% by Honda. |>  |> Yes, it's a minor blasphemy that U.S. companies would on the likes of A.M., |> Jaguar, or (sob) Lotus.  It's outright sacrilege for RR to have non-British |> ownership.  It's a fundamental thing   I think there is a legal clause in the RR name, regardless of who owns it it must be a British company/owner - i.e. BA can sell the company but not the name.
Catherine Barbara Saum <cs20+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:  >Is there a way to wax out a dull finish (minor scrathes)?  While >"passngering" on my fiance's Bandit, my hip-pack rubbed against the tail >and left a nasty dull finish and teeny scratches. Is there a way to get >rid of these?  Buff them out?  Wax them out? >help!   Car accessory shops here sell stuff called T-Cut, which is a very fine cutting paste for paint, and this will remove the dull finish and minor acratches. It will also remove all the traffic film and stuff that you probably don't realise is there, and give your paintwork its original lustre and shine. It can sometimes react badly with metallic paint, though, so try it out carefully before going to town with the stuff. Afterwards apply wax polish, and all will be well again.  BTW - don't confuse T-cut with the cutting paste used for grinding in  valves...the principle's the same but the coarseness is vastly different...
Tommy Marcus McGuire (mcguire@cs.utexas.edu) wrote: : You know, it sounds suspiciously like no fault doesn't even do what it : was advertised as doing---getting the lawyers out of the loop.  : Sigh.  Another naive illusion down the toilet....  Since most legislators are lawyers it is very difficult to get any law passed that would cut down on lawyers' business.  That is why "No-fault" insurance laws always backfire.
vech@Ra.MsState.Edu (Craig A. Vechorik) writes: ]I wrote the slash two blues for a bit of humor which seems to be lacking ]in the MOA Owners News, when most of the stuff is "I rode the the first ]day, I saw that, I rode there the second day, I saw this"   I admit it was a surprise to find something interesting to read in  the most boring and worthless mag of all the ones I get.  ]any body out there know were the sense if humor went in people? ]I though I still had mine, but I dunno...   I think most people see your intended humor, I do, I liked the article. you seem to forget that you've stepped into the political arena. as well intentioned as you may intend something you're walking through a china store carrying that /2 on your head. everything you say or do says something about how you would represent the membership on any given day. you don't have to look far in american politics to see what a few light hearted jokes about one segment of the population can do to someone in the limelight.  OBMoto: I did manage to squeak in a reference to a /2 ;-)
--  Thanks to all of you who gave advice on the CB900 Custom.   As recommended, I had the bike compression tested.  Compression was a little low, but very even across the four cylinders (+/- 5 psi).  They said that it was tested a little cold, so that would explain the low  numbers (around 90).  Does this sound right?  Otherwise, the bike looked great.  No signs of road rash, and no rust.  This bike looks great!  It is now in the shop getting tuned and new tires.   I am opting for the Metzler ME55 and ME33 tires (thanks to those  who posted this other thread).  This bike is _BIG_ compared to my other bikes.   ( Sure is alot harder to load on a trailer than the KDX200 was. )  I should be road legal tomorrow.  I am ignoring the afforementioned concerns about  the transmission and taking my chances.  Being a reletively new reader, I am quite impressed with all the usefull info available on this newsgroup.  I would ask how to get my own DoD number, but I'll probably be too busy riding ;-).  ---------------------------------------------------------------------- |     |\/\/\/|      ___________________                              | |     |      |     /                   \                             | |     |      |    /  Jamie W. Burnside  \                            | |     | (o)(o)   (  jburnside@ll.mit.edu )                           | |     C      _) / \_____________________/                            | |      | ,___| /                                                     | |      |    /                                                        | |      / __\                                                         | |     /     \                                                        |
In article <C4wKFs.BC1@eskimo.com>, maven@eskimo.com (Norman Hamer) writes: |> Question for the day: |>  |> What protective gear is the most important? I've got a good helmet (shoei |> rf200) and a good, thick jacket (leather gold) and a pair of really cheap |> leather gloves... What should my next purchase be? Better gloves, boots, |> leather pants, what?  condom   during wone of the 500 times i had to go over my accident i was asked if i was wearing "protection" my responces was "yes i was wearing a condom"
In article <C5t759.DsC@well.sf.ca.us> rwert@well.sf.ca.us (Bob Wert) writes:     I need some advice on having someone ride pillion with me on my 750 Ninja.    This will be the the first time I've taken anyone for an extended ride    (read: farther than around the block  :-).  We'll be riding some twisty,     fairly bumpy roads (the Mines Road-Mt.Hamilton Loop for you SF Bay Areans).  I'd say this is a very bad idea - you should start out with something much mellower so that neither one of you get in over your head. That particular road requires full concentration - not the sort of thing you want to take a passenger on for the first time.  Once you both decide that you like riding together, and want to do something longer and more challenging, *then* go for a hard core road like Mines-Mt. Hamilton.  In any case, it's *your* (moral) responsibility to make sure that she has proper gear that fits - especially if you're going sport riding.
In article <C5y4t4.LA6@ccu.umanitoba.ca> klinger@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Jorg Klinger) writes: >In <1r7pli$hoc@agate.berkeley.edu> robinson@cogsci.Berkeley.EDU (Michael Robinson) writes: >>Andy, when are you ever going to get it straight?  All Yanks are  >>self-satisfied gits.  It's the Canadians that are parochial ostriches. > >  No, the Yanks are. We are are midway through our insipid invasion of  >Florida and they aren't even aware of it yet.  Typical.  Their first attempt at foriegn-policy adventurism, and no one even notices.  Canadians.  They can even make balkanization boring.   --
I have a 1974 Honda CB360T which for most of my purposes runs well.  However I expereince a severe power drop at cruising speeds under load.  That is, on a mild upgrade @ 50 mph in 4th or 5th I'm lucky if I can hold speed.  If I try to add throttle much past 5000 rpm, power drops drastically.  Put simply, under load, the engine won't rev past 5000 rpm.  The top third/half of the throttle range is dead.  Standing still the engine runs fine up to red line (9-10K).  Other phenomenology: at about the point that power loss kicks in, the engine becomes a little wavery.  That is, at a steady throttle the engine speed goes up and down slightly.  The bike has about 13000 miles on it and is in good tune, at least until it starts to balk.  I would appreciate any suggestions as to what's ailing the poor beast.  My thoughts run toward clogged jets and/or improper spark advance.  I'm hoping it's not something more drastic since the bike's not really worth the hassle of any major engine work.                                          Thanks,
What worked for me on my RD350 was to lean towards the dog as I modulated throttle to keep my ankle just ahead of his teeth.  After a few seconds of warm pipe firmly wedged on his shoulder he turned his face sideways to see what was so warm and got his mouth/nose/muzzle burned on the pipes.  One yip and he veered away, never to chase me again.
In article 13892@megatek.com, randy@megatek.com (Randy Davis) writes: >In article <1993Apr22.204012.29920@asl.dl.nec.com> drinckes@tssc.wlg.nec.co.jp writes: >|Course, the only people who seem to be acting smug now probably have chain >|final drive (which, as we all know, is less efficient and has higher >|maintenance) and probably didn't know the answer at the start of the thread. > >  When did *you* go out and change the laws of physics? :-)  According to some >numbers I used to see bandied around, shaft drive is on the order of 95-97% >efficient, while chain drive is closer to 99%...   Seems to me that this makes >*chain* drive more efficient, hmmmmm??? > >  And granted, shaft has a lot less maintenance, which is fine, if you don't >mind less performance... :-) :-) > >Randy Davis                            Email: randy@megatek.com >ZX-11 #00072 Pilot                            {uunet!ucsd}!megatek!randy  OK.  And you regularly ride your bike to within 2% of it's maximum capability? (Note any idiot can go flat out on a bike - most of them do.)  Anyway, efficient at what?  A shaft drive is a much more efficient solid (erect) lump of metal than a floppy (flaccid, unsatisfying) chain.
In article <1r941o$3tu@menudo.uh.edu>, inde7wv@Rosie.UH.EDU wrote: > > [BDC driver nearly rams back of innocent biker...] >  > I understand why you theoretically stop so far behind a car but can you > really in actuality avoid such an incident?  Suggestions?  Glad to hear that the bozo managed to stop.  I've only been riding for about two years, but here are my rules for traffic light survival:       - I try to *never* stop just over a hill behind a car.  If I have        to stop in such a location, I pull almost completely next to the        car in front of me.  If I'm the only one (ie no car in front), I        turn the bike somewhat sideways across the lane, to increase my        visibility to any oncoming vehicle.  Make sure to keep your        taillight visible to traffic, though. (NOTE:  My bike is bright        white; turning sideways on a black bike might not be as beneficial.)       - On a flat road, I stop with a bit of room ahead of me (usually        about two or three bike lengths).  This will (hopefully) give        me room to pull forward and to the side as a car approaches.       - If you are the last in a line of vehicles, watch your mirrors        *constantly!*  If you see a vehicle approaching, and can't see        any evidence to indicate that he/she is slowing down, get out        of the way *now!*       - Flicker your brake light.  If I'm the last vehicle in line, I        will pull and release the brake as a car approaches from        behind (noticed the car by watching my mirrors, of course :-).        I vary the speed of the flicker, hoping to make the cager notice        that there's something in the lane ahead of him.  Now, with all that said, it's the situation where you are first in line that I feel most defenseless.  If you're first in line, your forward escape route is seriously limited - you can only move forward to the extent that you don't enter the intersection.  I leave some room behind the stop line (although around here, the #@$*! light activators are always right up  next to the stop line!), and watch the mirrors.  I *think* I've decided that hopping off the bike might be the best way out of this situation. Any other ideas for being first in line with no traffic directly behind you?  -rob.
jrlaf@sgi502.msd.lmsc.lockheed.com (J. R. Laferriere) wrote: >  > I was just wondering if there were any law officers that read this.  I have > several questions I would like to ask pertaining to motorcycles and cops. > And please don't say get a vehicle code, go to your local station, or obvious > things like that.  My questions would not be found in those places nor > answered face to face with a real, live in the flesh, cop. > If your brother had a friend who had a cousin whos father was a cop, etc. > don't bother writing in.  Thanks.  Um. Would you mind telling us what state/municipality you live in? There are different laws in different places, you know.                    tom coradeschi <+> tcora@pica.army.mil
In a previous article, howp@skyfox () says:  >I was wondering if anybody knows anything about a Yamaha Seca Turbo.  I'm  >considering buying a used 1982 Seca Turbo for $1300 Canadian (~$1000 US) >with 30,000 km on the odo.  This will be my first bike.  Any comments? 			     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Because of this I cannot in good faith recommend a Seca Turbo.  Power delivery is too uneven for a novice.  The Official (tm) Dod newbie bike of choice would be more appropriate because the powerband is so wide and delivery is very smooth. Perfect for the beginner.
In article <1993Mar31.194202.7809@cs.brown.edu> jdk@cs.brown.edu (Jennet Kirschenbaum) writes: > >I haven't heard Dr. Demento in years.  Does anyone know if it  >plays on any stations around Prov, RI (such as WBCN)? > >I'd love to pay for shipping and recording of the show too.
I'd like to thank everyone who took the time to respond to my post about  fighting my ticket.  Many of you wrote to say that you have successfully fought and won your  case in court.  Others lost due to the cop outright lying to the judge  about the circumstances surrounding your ticket, while one fellow lost because the judge just didn't appear to be in the mood for such foolishness.  Several of you suggested that I obtain a book called "Fight Your Ticket".  The general theme from those who said "go for it", was to be prepared.   I should do as much research as possible, go back and review the scene,  transcribe what happened to tape or paper, use any witnesses that may  have been around, have a list of questions to ask the cop and/or the judge, and to be positive and assertive.  I am innocent until proven guilty! <gulp>  A few people suggested trying to get my court date changed, as this might  trip up the arresting officer, he may not show up if the date is on his day off or if he feels/knows that he doesn't have a chance to win against you.  One individual stated that an Officer could be an Expert Witness, and if he says I was speeding, then by damn, I was speeding.  Another says that I must have been paced or clocked with a radar gun.  Lots of good suggestions and ideas from you all.  I'll let you know what happens after the big day!  /-----------------------------------------------------------------------------\  | Peter D. Nesbitt |     Air Traffic Controller     | PNESBITT@MCIMAIL.COM    |  |                  |       Oakland Bay TRACON       |                         |
In article <1993Apr21.222206.502069@sue.cc.uregina.ca> franks@hercules.cs.uregina.ca (Derek Franks) writes: >I was wondering if anyone on the net knows where/when the 1993 Wing Ding >is?  If so, would you please e-mail/post the info? > >I've never been to one and have some free time this summer and >am considering attending.  Anyone else? >  vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv  VVVVVVVVVV >This is my first post, so no DoD#. >                        >'82 Aspencade (2nd one)  Getting close there!
In article <1993Apr14.204821.8497@linus.mitre.org> cookson@mbunix.mitre.org (Cookson) writes: >In article <93Apr14.185235.31833@acs.ucalgary.ca> parr@acs.ucalgary.ca (Charles Parr) writes: >>My mechanic once commented that the 'dual range' transmission was >>pure junk. One mans opinion... >>  	I had a friend in Pittsburgh who had a CB1000C with the dual-range tranny on it.  He usually only used the "economy" range to get an overdrive sixth gear out of it.  He had 59000 miles on it when it was stolen.  It was recovered shortly after that, repaired, and, for all I know, it's still going strong.  	The CB1000C was a shaft-driven overbore version of the CB900 and was made for exactly one year (yep, head and base gaskets are VERY expensive). Helluva bike.  A data point,
I bought a Yamaha XS850 with 8K miles.  Over the last 2 years, I've put 30K of commute miles onnit.  Valve adjustment intervals are suppossed to be every 5K.  Well every 7.5K or so, I've checked the pad clearences, and they never change!  If anything, the clearances seem to be getting a little smaller which makes no sense to me with the pad system - the pads should wear until the clearances are too great right?  I know that threaded adjusters can tighten  up, but I didn't think these kind could.
In article <05APR93.02678944.0049@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> C70A@UNB.CA (C70A000) writes: >In article <C4zKCL.FGC@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> Eric@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (93CBR900RR) writes: >>Would someone please post the countersteering FAQ...i am having this awful >>time debating with someone on why i push the right handle of my motorcycle >>foward when i am turning left...and i can't explain (well at least) why this >>happens...please help...post the faq...i need to convert him. > > Ummm, if you push on the right handle of your bike while at speed and >your bike turns left, methinks your bike has a problem.  When I do it  Really!?  Methinks somethings wrong with _your_ bike.  Perhaps you meant _pull_?  Pushing the right side of my handlebars _will_ send me left.  It should.  REally.  >on MY bike, I turn right.  No wonder you need that FAQ.  If I had it >I'd send it. >  I'm sure others will take up the slack...   > > >
Could some kind soul tell me the advance timing/revs for a 1981 xs1100 special (bought in Canada).
In article <735486396snz@morgan.demon.co.uk>, tony@morgan.demon.co.uk (Tony Kidson) wrote: >  > In article <jcn-210493180052@lactose.rice.edu> jcn@rice.edu writes: >  > >And speaking of shims, why would the clearance of the valves get smaller, > >i.e. > >need the use of a thinner shim? > > >  > Valve seat wear? >  Okay, okay.  I forgot about that.  Sheeesh.
In article <C5KxAL.IzC@ccu.umanitoba.ca> klinger@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Jorg Klinger) writes: >  I beleive it's called the "Dentabox" frame.  > >Nothing some putty and paint won't fix.
Mike Sixsmith, on the 16 Apr 93 10:07:55 GMT wibbled:  [ very interesting (yawn) stuff deleted, because I'm like that... ]  : Formal training is in my view absolutely essential if you're going to : be able to ride a bike properly and safely. But by including countersteering : theory in newbie courses we are confusing people unnecessarily, right at : the time when there are *far* more important matters for them to learn. : And that was my original point.  : Mike   I am in complete concordance with you there, Mike.  I was a Silver StarRider instructor, for a while.  I learn't about countersteering last year and I have been riding bikes since 1976.  We were never told about countersteering when being taught to instruct.  It doesn't seem to have affected me or my friends or pupils.  We just rode in blissful ignorance. --  Nick (the Biker)   DoD 1069   Concise Oxford  M'Lud.