waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
> >No. reverse lights are to warn others that you are backing up. They >aren't bright enough to (typically) see by without the brake and tail >lights.  > > >Craig  Perhaps instead of this silly argument about what backup lights are for, couldn't we agree that they serve the dual purpose of letting people behind your car know that you have it in reverse and that they can also light up the area behind your car while you're backing up so you can see?  Backup lamps on current models are much brighter than they used to be on older cars. Those on my Taurus Wagon are quite bright enough to illuminate a good area behind the car, and they're  MUCH brighter than those on my earlier cars from the 60s and 70s.   Insofar as Vettes having side backup lights, look at a '92 or '93 model (or perhaps a year or two earlier too) and you'll see red side marker lamps and white side marker lamps both near the car's hindquarters.  Those aren't just white reflectors.
The answer to your question is...sort of. Volkswagen had a much less robust version of this army vehicle out in the early '70's (or thereabouts). It was called the Volskwagen Thing, and was, of course, a convertible. I havent seen many around then or now. Good luck... -Mik
In a previous article, edf003@marshall.wvnet.edu () says:  >Hi, I'm interested in getting the list for license plate numbers.  If anyone >has a listing I'd appreciate getting a copy of it.  Thanks! > You must be _incredibly_ bored.  Have you considered reading the phone book?
In article <1993Apr22.045328.630@cheshire.oxy.edu> colello@cheshire.oxy.edu (Robert Colello) writes: > >Hello, >  I am moving to Houston to go to Rice University for graduate school. >I will be living on the corner of S. Mian and University Blvd.  I was >wondering what kind of liability rates to expect.  Here is the relevent >info. >      Sex: Male >      Age: 23 >      Status: Single >      Commute: None, walking. >      Car: 1982 Ford Crown Victoria, 4 door > >If anyone can check the above info, or is in a similar situation please >E-MAIL me the rates they find out or pay.  Thanks for your help in advance. > >colello@delphi.com >colello@cheshire.oxy.edu >  My suggestion look at your current insurance card, there will be a name  accross the top telling you which insurance company you are insured by. Call information in Houston and get the number of a branch office in the  Houston area, call the insurance company.  Your rates will vary depending on the amount of coverage you want, do you want to carry comp and collision (probably not on an 82), what your driving record is.  You mentioned none of these things in your posting so how can anyone give you accurate information.  Like I said, pick up the phone and make a few calls, it won't kill you.
>In article <1qcaueINNmt8@axon.cs.unc.edu> Andrew Brandt writes: >|> I looked into getting a/c installed on my 1987 Honda CRX Si. >|> The unit is $875 plus shipping, installation is like 5 1/2 hours on >|> top of that.  This is a hunk of change. >|>  >|> Does anyone know *any* place that does aftermarket a/c installation >|> (not with a Honda a/c unit, but some third party unit). >|>  >|> I cannot seem to find anyone who can put a third party a/c unit in a >|> Honda.  I am in No Carolina, so I would prefer some place nearby, but >|> any references would be handy. >|> >|> Thx, Andy (brandt@cs.unc.edu) > Les Bartel's comments: >>>Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I do have a comment to >make concerning aftermarket A/C units.  I have a Frost-King or Frost-Temp >(forget which) aftermarket unit on my Cavalier, and am quite unhappy with >it.  The fan is noisy, and doesn't put out much air.  I will never have >an aftermarket A/C installed in any of my vehicles again.  I just can't >trust the quality and performance after this experience. >> > - les > >--  >Les Bartel			I'm going to live forever  Let me add my .02 in. I had a A/C installed by the Ford garage and it did not work as well as the A/C that was installed by the factory in pickups  identical to mine. I have talked to other people that have had the same result. Don't know if this is just a probable with Ford or what??
In article <1993Apr22.180150.12377@telxon.mis.telxon.com> joes@telxon.mis.telxon.com (Joe Staudt) writes: >>V6 - Legend, MR3? MR6? > >Honda: Prelude (?) nope.  4 cylinder.  >>V8 - Don't know of any. > >You didn't try very hard: >Lexus, Infinty: several of each i wasn't aware that there was another Infiniti with a V-8 besides the Q45.  >BMW: one model (5-series?) several.  the 740i, 730i, 540i, 530i.  (4.0 liter and 3.0 liter V-8)  >Mercedes: one or two models one or two?  there's at least one V-8 for every platform except the compact (190E).  S-class (400SEL, 500SEL), W124 (400E, 500E), and roadster (500SL).  >Acura: one model (can't remember the name right now) acura doesn't have any V-8 cars at the moment.
In article <kfr=ewC00WA1Q6wtt7@andrew.cmu.edu>, Sam Swett <ssbc+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes... >  >One more way, which works in manual trans cars I've driven, and it is my >personal favorite (the other suggestions above are great, but try this >one, too).   >  >While pushing the shifter *gently* towards reverse, let the clutch out >slowly (right to the friction point) and the shifter will be pulled into >position. If you do it right, the car won't jump backward, nor will the >gears grind.... You will just glide back. >  >-sam  I can vouch for this method in my 1990 SHO.  This is the only sure way of  putting in the reverse without any problem _every_ time.
For those that are interested I got my fully optioned (Air, ABS, sunroof) '92 SE-R in September 1991 for $13,555 in Sacramento, CA. It was one of the 1st '92s sold, few of the dealers had any, no local dealer had an ABS equipped SE-R.  I went straight to the fleet manager at the dealership I liked, told him what I wanted, made him aware that I knew what his price should be.  He called me back with exactly what I wanted from a dealer 125mi away, I took delivery the next day.
In article <1993Apr20.124228.5357@ncsu.edu> chuck@eos.ncsu.edu (Chuck Kesler) writes: >>Rear hatch has no padding on corners when up.  I'm waiting for the day when >>I bash my head on the corner. >>horn buttons behind air bag in spokes and not in center (personal preference) > >The latter is probably because of the air bag.  It's pretty much takes up >all the space where you'd expect to find the horn. >  All Toyotas have airbags with a real horn. Come on, how hard can it be to put a little pressure plate there. I hope Toyota doesn't follow everyone else and make the horns little buttons that I wouldn't want to fumble for.  john
qazi@csd4.csd.uwm.edu  writes: > --From the latest issue of AutoWeek, the Chevy Impala SS will arrive in > dealer showrooms in mid-1994.  Dealers have already been notified.  No word > on the changes to be made for the production version.  My question to all of > you is would you buy it?  And how much would you pay for it? >  > Aamir Qazi > qazi@csd4.csd.uwm.edu > --Why should I care?  I'd rather watch drying paint. >  > --  >  > Aamir Qazi > qazi@csd4.csd.uwm.edu   > --Why should I care?  I'd rather watch drying paint
In article <1993Apr15.173951.20173@icf.hrb.com> jek@icf.hrb.com (Joe Karolchik) writes: >(I deleted your name because I don't want to sound accusative in my remark) >>  >> On another occasion, on my way from Texas to Florida, I had stopped in  >> a small motel >> for the night in a small town somewhere in Florida. About 5 youths were  >> disturbing my >> car, setting off the alarm and challenging me to come out. When I and  >> another tenant >> walked out with a 357 Magnum and a 45 automatic respectively, they vanished.  >> Needless to say, I immediately packed-up and left. >>  >> Watch out for car-jacking and staged accidents. They can be deadly! >>  >I'm not going to argue the issue of carrying weapons, but I would ask you if  >you would have thought seriously about shooting a kid for setting off your >alarm?  I can think of worse things in the world.  Glad you got out of there >before they did anything to give you a reason to fire your gun.  If I hear someone screwing with my car (ie, setting off the alarm) and taunting me to come out, you can be damn sure that my Colt Delta Elite will also be coming with me. It's not the screwing with the car that'd get them shot, it's the potential physical danger. If they're taunting like that, it's very possible that they also intend to rob me and/or do other physically harmful things.  If they're just screwing around, no harm done. If they're bent on mayhem, they will receive the cure for their lead deficiency; a 180gr. injection @1200 fps...there's no telling what today's violent criminals will do. Death may be the most pleasant outcome...  				James
wharfie (wrat@unisql.UUCP) wrote: : In article <C5r66A.6rB@srgenprp.sr.hp.com> almanb@sr.hp.com (Bob Alman) writes: : >          "hose"  h-o-s-e  : 	Dork.  d-o-r-k.   Oh, really?   Here's what you posted earlier in another thread.  Before you thrash others for making simple mistakes or flaunt your wonderful "vi skill", think about how you make them feel as well as how you look (you spelled it right). ;-} For years you have assaulted others with offensive language, etc.  From the content of many of your posts, you appear to have a lot of useful information to share with people, but it gets overshadowed when you come across as an abusive smart-ass.     wharfie (wrat@unisql.UUCP) wrote: : In article <C5LoBL.DDw@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> marshatt@feserve.cc.purdue.edu (Z auberer) writes: : > : > Remember roads in America are NOT designed for speeds above 80 meaning they : >would be safe at 55-65. Roads like the Autobahn are smoother, straiter, : >wider and slightly banked.  :       Well, that's news.  Before 1975 the speed limit on Texas highways : was 75.  The speed limit on the New Jersey Turnpike (I-95) was 70. There : were no speed limits in Nevada or Montana.  : >east becoming hidden by trees after about 1,000 ft and continued to the : >left strait north. I wanted to turn north, checked the south lane, rolled
This is a two-sided problem. Unfortunately our culture has been deteriorating over time. The "breeding" of these low-life's is getting worse; our justice system is at best extremely weak to handle these problems. That is why low-abiding citizens should have the power to protect themselves and their property using deadly force if necessary  anywhere a threat is imminent.  My Camaro (my pride and joy) got stolen right out of my driveway a few years back. The persons that did that were eventually caught (lucky for me!) but not before having trashed the car.  On another occasion, on my way from Texas to Florida, I had stopped in a small motel for the night in a small town somewhere in Florida. About 5 youths were disturbing my car, setting off the alarm and challenging me to come out. When I and another tenant walked out with a 357 Magnum and a 45 automatic respectively, they vanished.  Needless to say, I immediately packed-up and left.  Watch out for car-jacking and staged accidents. They can be deadly!
I am planning on buying a repair manual for my ford taurus. (92). Is the $53 Ford shop manual comprehensive  enough , covering repairs in all aspects of the car ?    how about the haynes manual for tarus ?  please email replies if possible.
Shazad Barlas (jkjec@westminster.ac.uk) wrote: : To wheelspin in an auto, you keep the gear in N - gas it - then stick the  : gear in D... I've never tried this but am sure it works - but does this screw  : up the autobox? We're having a bit of a debate about it here...  I've known more people to leave their rear ends in pieces doing this,  especially if they have reasonable power to transmit and good traction on the road surface.  You're better off powerbraking.
In article <1993Apr15.173851.25846@convex.com>, tobias@convex.com (Allen Tobias) wrote: >  >  > Society, as we have known it, it coming apart at the seams! The basic reason > is that human life has been devalued to the point were killing someone is > "No Big Deal". Kid's see hundreds on murderous acts on TV, we can abort  > children on demand, and kill the sick and old at will. So why be surprised > when some kids drop 20 lbs rocks and kill people. They don't care because the > message they hear is "Life is Cheap"! >  I think this is getting a little overheated.  Highway robbers have been a part of life since the Middle Ages at least.  It's human nature to look at history through rose colored glasses, but random acts of violence have been a ceaseless part of our heritage.  Overall, life is better now than it ever was then.  It's just that random individual acts of violence have never been historically significant, and record keeping in the past was never good enough to retain them all.
If you hold off, there are a number of interesting convertibles coming to market in the next few years.  The new LeBaron will be based on the Mitsubishi Galant, which should be an improvement over the current model.  The new PL compact will have a convertible option (also a chrysler product)  Kia, makers of the Ford Festiva is planning a larger convertible.
"The Villager-Quest seem like the best of the Cravan/Voyager 	copies to come along since the Mazda MPV."  I'll agree about villager but not MPV -- it's so small that I'd class it as a SUV with an extra seat shoehorned in.  To get any rear cargo space, you shove the back seat up against the middle seat, eliminating *all* leg room.  Back to the Villager ...  	"Only the price is controversial."  And the use of attack belts instead of 3-point belts.  That killed it for me.
I have the EuroWiper boots in White and had to throw away the first pair since I found no way of cleaning them after they looked almost black. Now I have my second pair of white ones and once again they are dirty. I need a way to clean them w/o removing them since I had to cut them to remove them, is there a way? Or should I just buy black ones?  thanks -Joel  ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Joel Sprechman                             sprec-j@acsu.buffalo.edu   University at Buffalo                      v069pff7@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu
In article <1993Apr15.011805.28485@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, swr2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SCOTT WARREN ROSANDER) writes: |> In article <C5Csux.Fn1@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, gdhg8823@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (George Hei |> nz) writes: |> >After too many years of school I'm finally graduating and getting a real |> >job.  Of course I am trying to make plans of how to spend all this extra |> >money.  Right now I have an 89 accord, a good car, but not real sporty & |> >I was thinking of selling it in about two years and dropping around |> >$20k on a sports car of some kind.  After thinking about it, I may have a |> >better idea -- I'll keep the Accord until it drops and buy the car I've |> >always wanted -- a Corvette Stingray. My reasoning is that $8000 (accord)+ |> >$8000 (corvette) =$16000 is less than what I would spend anyway. |> > |> >Basically, I'm thinking of a late 70's, early 80's for around $7-$10k. |> >My question is, what are good years to consider (for reliability, looks, |> >horsepower -- in that order, believe it or not, horsepower is not a main |> >concern, if I want to go fast, I get on my motorcycle) and what are |> >good prices? |> > |> >Also, what would insurance look like?  I'm male, single, 23 (I might |> >wait until I'm 25 to get the car = lower insurance). Would the fact that |> >I mainly drive the other car lower it?  Is there some type of "classic |> >car" or "rarely driven" insurance class for driving it under 10k miles |> >per year? |> > |>     My dad has a 66 vette and its on what you say 'classic insurance'. |>     Basically what that means is that it has restricted amount of driving |>     time, which basically means it cant be used as an every day car and would |>     probably suit your needs for limited mileage. |> --    In addition to restricted mileage, many classic insurance carriers also require that the vehicle be garaged when not in use.  $0.02  Ericy
In article <C5w7or.DEx@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (OrioleFan@uiuc) writes: >newton@convex.com (Vicki Newton) writes: > >>i am in the process of buying a new auto.  i haven't decided yet whether >>i should sell my current car myself or trade it in as part of the new >>auto purchase. > >>i know that the "blue book" value for the car is $2825.  an acquaintence >>has offered to give me blue book value for the car.  i am just wondering >>if this is a standard measure for negotiating a resale price or if i >>can hope to get more money from someone else.  what exactly is blue book >>value based on?  i know that for its year (88) my car has low mileage >>(< 50,000).  it is in excellent working condition but does have a few >>dings on the exterior (nothing major).  do any of these facts alter the >>fair selling p[rice of the car?  i am not looking to rip anyone off, i >>just naturally want to get the best price for the car. > >>thanks a million, >>veek > >	I think the Blue Book is the NADA handbook for used car prices, no? >	Is the Blue Book value given the retail or wholesale value???  The  >	Blue Book value isn't set in stone, though.  Low milage, extra addons >	and stuff like that there can increase the resale price of the car, you >	may want to head on over to the local library or borrow your friends >	Blue Book and read up on that sort of stuff.  I paid ~$400 under BB >	(retail) for my '87 Civic in 1990, and it was in perfect condition and >	had only ~14.5K miles on it.  The guy was desparate to sell, new kid on >	the way, etc., but it was a good price.  Remeber, both you and the  >	buyer, if he has any sort of brains at all, are using the Blue Book, so >	you should pick a fair price.   > > >				Chintan Amin >				llama@uiuc.edu > >--  >Chintan Amin <The University of Illinois UrbanaChampaign> mail: llama@uiuc.edu >*******SIG UNDER CONSTRUCTION HARD HAT AREA********  A mileage chart should be available in the book.  It usually goes by the class of car you own and year.  Usually you will end up adding a few hundred dollars to the retail price or subtracting it...  Consumer Reports also has a number you can call and get a quote for your area. A friend of mine used it, and was quite happy with the service.  I believe it cost about $10.00.
In article <1qvgg3INNl0r@phantom.gatech.edu> Graham E. Thomas, grahamt@phantom.gatech.edu writes: > Alright, beat this automobile sighting.  I can top that one.  Friday afternoon 4-16-93 I look out my window in Long Beach CA.  What do I see but the new Ferrari.  I looks like a mix between the ragtop testarossa (sp?) and the batman car.  It seems Ferrari had their Annual dinner at the place downstairs.  Sweet car.
In article <C5yBo4.E5I@vcd.hp.com> dmunroe@vcd.hp.com (Dave Gauge) writes: >If you had free reign to design your own instrument cluster, which >gauges would you choose to have beyond the basic set? > >I consider the basic set to be: > >	- tach           must have > >	- coolant temp (or cylinder head temp for air-cooled engines)           must >	- oil pressure           must >	- amps           I've seen amps and volts, I would go for the volts >	- speedo           must you ask? >	- fuel           I would like to know how much gas I have. Of course the            gauge I have now dosen't tell me s**t so I could see not            having one in favor of  a warning light at say, 50mi > >others that are nice to have: > >	- volts (maybe this should be in the basic set) >	- vacuum/boost           OOOOOOHHHHH! how I would LOOOVE to have a vacuum gauge             on my dash!
I am interested to know if there is any Pontiac e-mail car clubs out there?  Has anyone started one, or is anybody thinking about starting one. Thanks for any info you can give me
My 85 Caprice Classic with 120K+ miles has finally reached the threshold of total number of mechanical problems that I am forced to post :).  Anyone out there who might be able to give me some pointers on one or more of the below, please e-mail or post!  1. When making turns, especially when accelerating,    there is usually a loud "thunk" from the rear of    of the car.  Sounds like it could be the differential.    What could cause this?  Is the differential going    bad?  I recently had the differential fluid changed,    and it DID have tiny metal bits in it.  (And no,    the sound is NOT something rolling around in the    trunk!)    2. On starting the car, I get blue (oil) smoke from    the exhaust for 5-10 seconds.  Exhaust valves    going bad?  Worn rings?  Anyone know whether the    valves on the 4.3 TBI engine can be lapped?  3. Brakes.  More pedal travel than I feel comfortable    with, but master cylinder is full and fluid is    relatively clear.  Pedal does NOT slowly sink to    the floor when held down.  Pedal does not feel    spongey, but I suppose that bleeding the brakes    might help -- could anything else cause this?  4. Tranny.  Tranny problems seem to be slowly getting    worse -- takes almost 2 seconds to downshift from    3rd to 2nd on heavy throttle application, and more    recently, it is reluctant to shift from 2nd to 3rd.    Fluid (checked with car running with tranny put    through all the gears and then back to park, as per    Haynes manual) is red and clear, and is on full mark.  5. My springs all around are just about shot -- I have    4 new shocks on, but car still skips out on bumps    in turns at moderate to high speed.  How hard are    they to change?  Can they be reconditioned?  I'd be interested in hearing from any GM full-size RWD owners out there with stories to tell and/or advice.  Here in Philly, these cars are apparently stolen(!) quite often and converted into taxis.  Apparently the cab conversion shops will get a junk title for the car or switch VINs with a car about to be junked.  About 60% of Philly cabs are Caprice's, with most of the rest being Crown Vic's with a few old New Yorkers and Impalas (& Broughams).
In article <1993Apr10.013011.808@lrc.edu>, burnside_br@lrc.edu writes: >In article <1993Apr6.225034.7184@opencon.com>, giand@opencon.com (Deepak S. Gia nchandani) writes: >> Mubashir Cheema: >> >>      Don't buy one, that is the best way to avoid tickets, >>      I used to have one and whenever a cop would pull me over, see >>      the thing, give me a ticket.  One time my sister was driving, >>      and had it in the glove compartment, it was broken, and she >>      got a ticket.  In 1987, I had received 4 tickets because of >>      it, one for my sister (so a total of five). >> >>      That was five years ago, now I don't have one and Have not >>      gotten a ticket.  My driving habits have not changed >>      drastically.  Only two days ago I was going 77 MPH on Highway >>      with 55 MPH limit, cop saw me, I break a little, nothing >>      happened (I was driving a Mini-Van, with my family in it). >>      Otherwise, I have Cutlass Supreme,  which I do 70 most of the >>      times on the highway. >> >>      So basically my opnion is not to get one, if you do get pulled >>      over, The cop will hear your excuse, but if you have a radar >>      detecter, he will NOT. (again, this has been my experienc > > >Just get a remote model that is not visible to the cop.  But, be sure to get >front AND rear sensors... > You can also just put the detector off to the side on the dash so the cop doesn't see it right away...Valentine is the best detector by far (as stated by Car and Driver) and even tells you what direction the radar is coming from.  It also gives the amount of "threats" it is picking up, so if you go through  the same place everyday, and it always goes off there, you can glance at the  number of "threats" the Valentine is detecting to see if it is a genuine cop.   It's about $300 and you can only get it factory direct..one problem.                                             Rob Fusi                                             rwf2@lehigh.edu