waashk/20ng huggingface dataset:
In article <1r1jmoINN8mb@rave.larc.nasa.gov> kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey) writes: >In article <DRAND.93Apr20150701@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes: >>In article <randall.735251839@woof> randall@informix.com (Randall Rhea) writes:  >>   Hams can legally run up to 1500 watts.  It is very unlikely, however, >>   that a ham would be running that kind of power from a car.  Ham rigs  >>Not possible either.  You'd need about a 300 amp alternator for >>just the amplifier.  I can just see it.  You need to slow >>down on a downgrade,  so you hit the push to talk button.  >Now, that indeed is possible.  A good friend of mine is running about 1 KW >PeP from his car.  Yes, he does have a second alternator.  Yes, he calls >the rig an "electronic brake" since the engine noticeably slows when the >key is down.  It has been a while since I knew the electronics of ham radio, but I seem to remember that PeP is actually 4x the "real" power.  Which makes 1KW PeP actually around 250W.  Or was it 2x?  I disremember.  "Effective transmitted power" is also "odd", in that it takes into account antenna height and geometry.  Which is why a TV station with a 50KW Klystron might advertise a megawatt (if their antenna is on the top of the CN tower ;-).  This is like Sears HP ;-)  Though, 1500 real watts still isn't impossible.  About 125-150A with a 12V alternator, less if the alternator produces higher voltages.  It's only three horsepower (taking into account inefficiencies).  You'll feel it when you hit the key.  But not too much.
Hi.  I'm looking for software to aid a friend of mine with designing speakers. Does this type of software exist?  If anyone can point me toward a shareware or freeware product with this description, that would be ideal.  ...Steve van der Burg (using a friend's account)  (p.s. Excuse the terseness of the message;  I'm having difficulty stringing readable sentences together today, for some reason.)  --
---  I was wondering, what copy protection techniques are avaliable, and how effective are they?  Has anyone have any experience in this area?                        With highest regards,                            Babak   Sehari.
I suggest that misc.consumer.house is a better forum for this, several electricians, a huge FAQ that adresses ALL the issues raised here.  --
I wrote:  : : bit of it, you could take the tape over to a local ham operator's house : : and ask him for his opinion of what you're hearing.  Most communities :  : You cannot do that legally. However, you can ask a ham over to listen. : If the interference occurs at a specific time each day, then it would : be possible to do such scheduling.  If nothing else, you could invite : the ham over to transmit from your driveway, to see if he interferes. : If he does, then you probably need to have your equipment worked on to : make it immune to rf interference.  As a coupld of people have pointed out - this is wrong. It is not illegal to record or disclose what you heard on the Ham bands.
If anyone out there has an HP180 series scope or mainframe, I have the TDR plug in (the 1810, I believe) for it and have no need to keep it. Interested? E-mail me.  --  --------------------------------------------------------------------        Dave Medin			Phone:	(205) 730-3169 (w)     SSD--Networking				(205) 837-1174 (h)     Intergraph Corp.        M/S GD3004 		Internet: dtmedin@catbyte.b30.ingr.com   Huntsville, AL 35894		UUCP:  ...uunet!ingr!b30!catbyte!dtmedin     ******* Everywhere You Look (at least around my office) *******
I need a off-the-shelf method of transmitting small amounts of data up to 300 feet.  The data is low speed and can be encoded as needed.  Low power on the transmitting end would be a plus.  An FCC certified product would be prefered.  If you have any pointers to products or companies I'd appreciate hearing from you.
Doesn't Motorola AMCU have something on the BBS yet? (512-891-3733)
I think a few things are being missed overall here... First of all, anyone with a DOS manual can copy a disk, or copy anything (hidden files dont go far if you are dealing with anyone who is not comletely DOS ignorant) off of a hard disk. 'Professional' crackers aren;t interested in copying disks. They are programmers who get some thrill out of going through unassembly listings of programs to disable copy protection such as serial number dialog boxes, volume label checks, and who knows what when it comes to computer games.       Those people are in the minority, however. In my experience with the world of people and software, it seems that a good majority of people (say 80%) will at some point copy a friend's program ("Gee, you really oughta try this") or accept a copy. These are people who normally would buy a software package or do without, but decided that just once it wouldn't matter.  The last thing is people who own or are responsible for more than one  computer; most people aren't going to spend $150 * X# of computers for the same software package.. they will just install it x# of times, especially things like DOS upgrades.
From article <1993Apr27.004240.24401@csi.jpl.nasa.gov>, by eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred): > In article <1rh9b0INN2r4@snoopy.cis.ufl.edu> ruck@beach.cis.ufl.edu (John Ruckstuhl) writes: >>I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know what solvent I should  >>use to clean duct-tape adhesive from carpet? >>Someone taped wires to the carpet, and now it is time to move out. >> > I don't know for sure that this will work, but you might try MEK (methyl > ethyl keytone?).  It worked getting the stickum left over from shelf paper, > and is available at paint stores.  Use a carbon gas mask and lots of > ventilation--this stuff really stinks! >  > 	- Dan >
In article <1993Apr22.103922.23177@husc3.harvard.edu>, mlevin@husc8.harvard.edu (Michael Levin) wrote: >  >  > I just bought a little gizmo that is supposed to be installed "in > series with the tip or ring lines" of the phone wire. Which ones are > those? Suppose I am holding a regular phone wire, such that the little > plastic tooth (on the little plastic square thing with the naked lead > ends that you plug into the phone) is facing down, and away from me. > Which of the 4 wires that I see is the "tip" and which is the "ring"? > Please reply to mlevin@husc8.harvard.edu. >  > Mike Levin  Assuming you are refering to standard POTS or ground start lines:  If you are looking at loop start lines under idle conditions, the RING conductor is the one with approximately -48 to -52 vDC with respect to ground while the TIP conductor is at or very near ground potential (be sure to reference the telco ground when taking your measurements).    If you are dealing with ground start lines under idle conditions, the RING conductor will be the one with approximately -48 to -52 vDC while the TIP conductor would look like it's floating (you may see some potential from line capacitance it will bleed off over time).  Remember to use the telco ground as your reference when making measurements.
Can anyone point me to a cross compiler and/or assembler for the Motorola 68008, hosted by a PC compatible.  Preferable Free or Shareware.    Also does anyone know of a GNU CC port to this chip.
I have seen the existance of electronics solder with a 2% silver content that seems to have good wetting and fatique reatings.   Can anyone tell me why it is not used? (silver is not such an expensive metal).   Andy
In article <1rg36hINNsr6@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> hugo@cats.ucsc.edu (Hugo Calendar) writes:  > I'm wondering if I can tote my American touch tone phone around with me > to Sweden and Germany.  It's DC powered, and I can buy a special adapter > for that in Europe.  The question is if the general electronics work > the same.  I can buy a different wall plug and refit it (I'm sure I'd > have to), but would that do the trick?  Two things to watch for: In Germany (and I think the same holds for Sweden) only some of the connections can handle tone dialing, so make sure the phone can be set to pulse dialing. In Sweden, the '0' is the first digit and all other digits are pushed "down" by one position; this makes dialing (and in the process converting numbers) an interesting task. Otherwise, it is technically no problem to connect a foreign phone to either the German or Swedish phone system. OTOH neither you nor I would ever try that, as it is of course illegal.
I have a mystery part labeled NEC AC100.  It's from the low voltage supply of an NEC Multisync I monitor.  It's a three lead part in a square package like a volate regulator or power transistor.  The board is labeled CR691 where the part goes.  (Possibly an SCR?)  The pin labeled G on the board goes to a zener diode (reference voltage?); the pin labeled T1 goes to the negative lead of a capacitor in the power supply, and the pin labeled T2 goes to the negative side of the bridge rectifier in the supply.      If anyone can tell me what this is, or better yet, where I can buy one just like it, please email me at ck3i@andrew.cmu.edu.  I've called NEC's "monitor repair number" and not only do they not know what the part is, but they don't think that they can find one to sell to me...  It makes no sense to me...
In sci.electronics, idh@nessie.mcc.ac.uk (Ian Hawkins) writes: >When constructing active filters,  odd values of resistor are often required >(i.e. something like a 3.14 K Ohm resistor).(It seems best to choose common >capacitor values and cope with the strange resistances then demanded). > >Is there a PD program out there that will work out how best to make up such >a resistance, given fixed resistors of the standard 12 values per decade?.(1, >1.2,1.5,1.8,2.2,3.3 etc ).  It is a common enough problem,  yet I cant >recall seing a program that tells that Rx+Ry//Rz gives Rq,  starting with >q and finding prefered values x,y and z.
> Joseph Mich Krzeszewsk writes: > > Msg-ID: <1quomg$f6m@bigboote.WPI.EDU> > Posted: 19 Apr 1993 17:49:04 GMT > > Org.  : Worcester Polytechnic Institute > > Well, this is my second try at posting on this subject. Here goes... >         In Texas (Corpus Christi at least) if you pick up the phone and > dial >         890 the phone company will read the number of the phone you are on >         back to you. I believe the service department uses this to make >         certain they are repairing the correct lines when they open the BIG >         junction boxes. I don't know if it will work but you can give it a >         try. Good luck. > >  Where I live, I use BCTEL. The number to dial is 211 for the same result.
The simplest and cheapest soft UV bulb is an AR-1 argon bulb (or other argon bulb).  It works like a neon bulb except it glows purple.  It will cause stuff to fluoresce.  It requires very little power, just a battery, an oscillator, and a step-up transformer to about 100 volts.
Does anyone out there have the toll-free (catalog request and order line) for Heathkit/Zenith?  Please post the number if you've got it!  Thanks.
I tried to E-mail you, but the message bounced.  Motorola has a University Support Program through which (I've been told) folks at schools can get sample quantities of parts.  If you'd like to try this  route, e-mail me for the address/phone #...I don't wish to post it for all the world to see.
Others said: # >       Actually, fossil fuel plants run hotter than the usual  # >boiling-water reactor nuclear plants.  (There's a gripe in the industry # >that nuclear power uses 1900 vintage steam technology).  So it's # >more important in nuclear plants to get the cold end of the system # >as cold as possible.  Hence big cooling towers.    When the utility gave up on that Cinnci, OH plant (Zimmer?) and announced they were going to convert it to a coal-fired scheme, the turbines were already in place, and they were the low-temp type. So the plan was: Install a SECOND set of high temp turbines, and feed the low-temp ones with the output of the new ones.  Never saw anything more on this. Did they ever really build it?
In <C5yqDE.Cq0@ecf.toronto.edu> gladman@ecf.toronto.edu (GLADMAN AVIV) writes:  >In article <Zw6F3B1w165w@inqmind.bison.mb.ca> baden@inqmind.bison.mb.ca (Baden de Bari) writes: >>  >>        So what's the story here... we're all stuck with the regular >>green, red, and off yellow-orange LED's!?  What gives!!?? >>        Anybody have a 'scoop' on FAIRLY LOW PRICED >BLUE< LED's??? >>  >In order to emit blue light, a semiconductor must have a band gap energy >within the region of 2.6 to 2.8 electron Volts. According to my physical >electronics prof, you can't get an LED with that band gap. That's why you  He's mistaken. They exist, the semiconductor is silicon carbide, and they are inefficient and expensive. The bandgap is around 2.7 ev.  >don't find blue LEDs or, for that matter, some other colour of LEDs. That >is not to say that blue LEDs can't be found.  I've seen 'blue' LEDs sold, >but they were just your typical visible light LED in a blue plastic covering. >They didn't emit very much light...  The ones I have are clear plastic. Pray tell, what would make a "typical" LED emit blue light?
Hello,  I just canceled my support of the Cable Regime and I would like to at least pick up the 3 networks and NBC.  :)   I do not have tons of money nor even a few pounds so what I am looking for is the best solution for reception for under 100 dollars.  I have seen modules that you plug into your wall outlet that "supposedly" make your entire house an antenna.  I have to admit, even with my limited knowledge of wavelength and aerial reception, this seems dubious in its claims for "excellent reception" at best.  I'll try anything, though, if it WORKS.  I am in a non-mountainous area, approximately 50 miles from the transmitting stations which are pretty large (Montgomery Alabama pop. 200,000) and Colombus Goergia, pop. 100,000+.  Any recommendations of products, brand-names, prices and  company info (catalog ordering numbers, addresses etc.)?  Thank you in advance.
vanderby@mprgate.mpr.ca (David Vanderbyl) writes:  > drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes: >  > >   Hams can legally run up to 1500 watts.  It is very unlikely, however, > >   that a ham would be running that kind of power from a car. > > > >Not possible either.  You'd need about a 300 amp alternator for > >just the amplifier. >  > It is too possible.  As the original poster said "it is very unlikely" > but definately possible.  (Can you say batteries?)   I've even seen pictures of an installation where the ham pulled a little  trailer behind his car with a 4KW generator, and ran the full legal limit  while mobile. I don't know what his gas mileage was like, though, or  where he found resonators able to stand the gaff.
In article <734953838.AA00508@insane.apana.org.au>, peter.m@insane.apana.org.au (Peter Tryndoch) writes... >AllThe Devil ReincarnateSWR meter for CB radios >  >TD>From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate) >TD>Organization: CDAC, WA >TD>What >TD>is a good choice for a CB? 1/4 or 1/8 wave? >TD>  I read the installation instructions on a 1/4 wave antenna, >TD>and they suggested that I use an SWR to tune it at channel 12 >TD>and channel 32 for a minimum reading.  Question is, why channel >TD>12 and 32?  >The best antenna is one that will let out the most wave (probably not the  >best explanation, but the rest makes sense) A one wave will cancell itself  >out (BTW no such beastie). 	Yes there is.  Not common for CB.  The pattern is different (sort of 	a cloverleaf, with four main lobes.  > The best is a 1/2 wave antenna, followed by 1/4, then 1/8 etc. 	Use of anything under 1/4 wave for transmitting is very uncommon.  (The 	usual "rubber duck" uses a coil to fool itself into looking like a 	quarter wave. 	I reccomend the ARRL Antenna Handbook, or a good basic book.
I got a question from my dad which I really can't answer and I'd appreciate some net.wisdom.  His question is about some 18-24" diameter balls which are attached to electric power lines in his area.  He's seen up to a half dozen between two poles.  Neither of us have any experience with electric power distribution. My only guess was that they may be a capacitive device to equalize the inductance of the grid, but why so many between two poles?.  Anyone know what they really are?  Is there a related FAQ for this? Is there a better group to submit to?  We'd both appreciate some enlightenment.
In article <pat.734048757@fegmania.wustl.edu>, pat@fegmania (Patrick Niemeyer) writes: |> ree88132@zach.fit.edu (Keith Ledig) writes: |>  |> >was told by other people that it just takes a long time.  I heard |> >rumors that the HC11 is very hard to get these days and is being |> >replaced by the 711 series.  The sales person is trying to push |> >the 711.  Can someone please tell me what is going on with these |> >microcontrollers.  I can't seem to get a straight answer. |>  |> I too had trouble finding hc11's when I looked for them a while back. |> I'd be interesting in hearing if anyone knows about their availability now... |>  |> Thanks, |> Pat   The HC711 is an EPROM version of the HC11. Raw HC11 parts have factory set ROM images, and as such are useless to the hobbyist. HC811 parts have EEPROM, allowing for electrical erasure and reprogramming.  Some Motorola parts (such as the HC705K1) have EPROM, making them user programmable, but come with options of either windowed or sealed. The more expensive windowed packages allow multiple use, the plastic dip varieties are one-time programmable, since there is no way of exposing the EPROM array to light.  JohnH  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------        |  _  |_   _   |_|  _   _|  _|              Electronics Department     |_| (_) | | | |  | | (_| (_| (_| \/           School of MPCE     ---------------------------------/-           Macquarie University                                                   Sydney, AUSTRALIA 2109      Email: johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au, Ph: +61 2 805 8959, Fax: +61 2 805 8983
In article <alan-210493163447@17.129.12.26> alan@apple.com (Alan Mimms) writes: >Actually detecting a BREAK is done by watching for a "character" containing >all zero bits with the framing error resulting from its receipt.  This  True enough, but...  >means that the line stayed in the zero bit state even past the stop bit >time slot, which basically indicates a BREAK.  There is no special way to >detect BREAK that I have found other than this -- there's no magic signal >generated by UARTs, etc.  Zilog SCC: --------- 	RR0[7]:  Break Detect  This is a very popular part, but it has a number of quirks, especially in HDLC mode.  Signetics 68562 DUSCC: --------------------- 	RSR[2]:  Break Start Detect 	RSR[3]:  Break End Detect  Two of the bits in the Receiver Status Register.  You can enable an interrupt on either of these bits going high, too.  Also, only one NULL will be put in the FIFO per break detected.  This is simply the best serial chip I've ever worked with.  _Many_ less quirks than the SCC, which is IMHO second-best.  (Death to 8250 devices!)
> >>Hey, now will you stop encouraging him? Copy protection only serves one pur- >>pose: to keep the honest buyer from making (legal) backup copies. It will >>definitely not stop any pirates. If you want to protect you soft, supply a >>good documentation and support. This is IMHO the *only* way of effectively pro >>tecting software. >>Best Regards, >>Arno  I strongly disagree. I think most pirating is done by amateurs, who won't copy the program if "diskcopy" can't do it. If you're talking a 20% max goal of pirated copies, I bet that anything that will beat diskcopy, and can't be easily copied from a hard drive, will suffice. I hate hard copy manuals, and would rather have all docs online - *not* because I want to copy the program, but because its usually faster and and convenient than sifting through an old book I can't find.  Off deeper end-> Why does everyone think they need to be able to make a  backup copy? Almost all new software must be installed to the hard disk, so you are left with the originals as your backups. I think its a waste of time, space, and money, as well as it makes it to tempting to "lend" out the backups.    No flames intended - just my thoughts.
In article <C60DvH.FAn@ucdavis.edu> ez019654@othello.ucdavis.edu (Victoria Milliron) writes: >From: ez019654@othello.ucdavis.edu (Victoria Milliron) >Subject: Re: How to the disks copy protected. >Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1993 22:16:29 GMT >Hmmm... >What is the problem with parallel port security keys? I haven't used anything >that had hardware key copy protection schemes, so I don't know what the >drawbacks are. I know the companies that make them claim they're uncrackable, >but I've seen cracks of AutoDesk 3d-studio floating around (I don't have one >so don't ask) and I had heard that it had parralel port keys.  If you put another computer on the port instead of the key, you can hack  them by reading what happens. So I've been told, I've never seen this done  but I think it's possible. You'd need some hardware knowledge and some  software to read the port!   > >vamilliron@othello.ucd.edu >-my apologies if I rambled, but vi inhibits my communication skills greatly.  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Guido Klemans  Internet: rcstage1@urc.tue.nl                  valid until 16 may 1993  -------------------------------------------------------------------------------  'Listen very carefully, I will say this only once.'  Michelle of the resitance
In article <skelly.18c2@amiganet.chi.il.us>, skelly@amiganet.chi.il.us (Sean Kelly) writes: |>   |>   |>      I have a question about accessing certain addresses on a chip, |> particulary a 27C512 EPROM.  Although I don't know that much about it, as I |> understand it, there's a pin on the chip that, when voltage is applied, kicks |> up the address.  The question is how do you determine how many bytes the |> address is incremented by??  For example, if I have code I want to be |> accessed at $2000 and also at say $4000 how do I move the address pointer to |> those positions??  Thanks for any info... |>  |> %^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^% |> %   Sean Kelly - Sysop Amizon BBS (312)594-1146                         % |> %   Always looking for classic video games for the following systems:   % |> %                                                                       % |> %  Atari 2600-Atari 5200-ColecoVision-Atari 5200-Intellivision-Vectrex  % |> %^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%^%  Judging by your .sig you are trying to make some kind of game cartridge. Information of how to build an EEPROM cartidge for the vectrex is available via anonymous ftp at 'csus.edu'.  Since you've chosen the 27C512 you are probably trying to make a 'multicart'. To do this simply: 1. Load the game images into the EEPROM at $2000, $4000, etc. (Your EEPROM burner software may allow this or you will have to assemble the images into one file yourself with suitable gaps.) 2. Wire up the cartridge with the lower address bits going to the game console, and the high bits going to switches to choose between games.  To directly answer your question above, the pin that 'kicks up the address' is simply another address line.