vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"As far as I can tell there are no ""out-of-the-box"" solutions for this.  Nor will Moneydance or GnuCash give you the full solution you are looking for.  I imaging people don't write a well-known, open-source, tool that will do this for fear of the negative uses it could have, and the resulting liability.  You can roll-you-own using the following obscure tools that approximate a solution: First download the bank's CSV information: http://baruch.ev-en.org/proj/gnucash.html That guy did it with a perl script that you can modify. Then convert the result to OFX for use elsewhere: http://allmybrain.com/2009/02/04/converting-financial-csv-data-to-ofx-or-qif-import-files/"
the difference is whose money is being invested. when you deposit money in a bank, it is FDIC insured and capital requirements are set to ensure the preservation of your deposits. if the bank wants to make huge derivative bets, with leverage inherent in the instrument or provided by another bank, deposits are involved in the equation.
The initial position is worth 40000. You post 50% margin, so you deposited 20000 and borrowed 20000. 6% of 20000 is 1200.
US Bank just introduced this feature, but they want $.50 per deposit!  No way man. Schwab has an Android App I have used a dozen times.   Very easy and pretty consistent.  It worked on folded checks, pictures on a reflective background (kitchen table top), big company issued checks and of course personal checks. Very positive feeling from this app and the ability to deposit.
"There are two reasons you would get a higher yield for savings accounts: either because it is not guaranteed by a national deposit insurance fund (CDIC I presume in Canada), or you have to hold it for a longer term. Money Market Accounts are insured in the U.S. and are also very liquid since you can debit from it any time. Because of this, they offer much lower rates of interest than comparable products.  If you look at the savings products such as the 1.50% momentum savings account offered by ScotiaBank, you actually have to hold a $5000 balance and not make any debit from it for 90 days in order to get the extra 0.75% that would get you to 1.50%. Essentially this is roughly equivalent to offering you a 1.50% GIC with a 0.75% withdrawal penalty fee, but simply presented in more ""positive"" terms. As for the Implicity Financial Financial 1.75% offering, it looks like it is not insured by the CDIC."
The $10,000 is only for international travel, that you have to declare it I mean, you can still carry more.  Interstate travel you should be able to carry as much as you'd like.  The deal with banks is that any deposits over $10,000 have to be reported to the IRS.  If he has a bill of sale or some other such device there should be no issues with the banks.  Now if he doesn't claim the income on his taxes, he could have issues with the IRS though.  A quick search would give you all that information and more...
Be prepared to drive another 500 km to prove your claim. If you file your claims, normally you should claim interest at the bank rate on savings bank accounts. However, in most such situations, the rate is specified in the law. If not, your claim will not be entertained in a normal way. You may to file a suit for recovery of interest. Keep us posted on your progress.
I've wondered the same thing.  And, after reading the above replies, I think there is a simpler explanation. It goes like this. When the bank goes to make a loan they need capital to do it. So, they can get it from the federal reserve, another bank, or us. Well, if the federal reserve will loan it to them for lets say 0.05%, what do you think they are going to be willing to pay us?  Id say maybe 0.04%. Anyway, I could be wrong, but this makes sense to me.
The £500 are an expense associated with the loan, just like interest. You should have an expense account where you can put such financing expenses (or should create a new one). Again, treat it the same way you'll treat interest charges in future statements.
"You get paid interest on deposits because banks only keep a fraction of the deposits on-hand. The rest is put to other uses, such as loaning money to others. If you deposit money and yield 1% interest, the bank is able to fund an auto loan, at 5%. By saving, you are actually making more capital available in the marketplace. ""Fixed"" or ""durable"" assets like gold, real property, or durable goods are different -- their value is based on attributes such as demand (gold, oil) or location (real property). If you bought an apartment in Manhattan in 1975, it appreciated greatly in value over the course of 30 years... but it did so because demand for apartments in New York City grew, while the supply of apartments grew more slowly. The government prints money for two core reasons: Think of it this way: Money is valuable because it is money."
"Your instructor's numbers do not seem to have any basis in current reality. At this page you can see a comparison of interest rates offered by banks and credit unions.  In the most recent table for June 2014, banks paid an average interest rate of 0.12 percent on savings accounts, while credit unions paid an average of 0.13 percent.   If you look back further, you will see that interest rates paid by banks and credit unions are generally comparable.  Credit union rates tend to be a little bit higher, but certainly not 7 times higher. The last time any financial institution paid as much as 15% on a savings account would probably be the early 1980s.  You can see here a historical chart of the ""prime rate"" for lending.  Savings account rates (at either banks or credit unions) would typically be lower. (This is based on the US, in accordance with your tag.  Interest rates in other places, especially developing countries with less stable currencies, can be dramatically different.)"
Several answers already addressed the issue that you wouldn't want to get into this situation in the first place, but looking forward the problem is that you want to spend 2000, whilst you don't have it (or at least not 3200). Besides finding a way to get more loans/credit than you already have, you can consider whether you could survive without spending the 2k in question.
There is a strange puzzle today where savings account interest rates are not rising in-line with the Federal Funds rate. Either customers are apathetic to their alternative uses of cash, or banks have some-how formed a cartel to keep their cost of funding low. I'm leaning towards the former since bank customers today likely value readily accessible cash more than the interest rate they could earn by investing in money market mutual funds.
Ya, I moved into the role so I was just as surprised as you are. We regularly compete with 4 or 5 other companies to win an account. When we lose it really sucks because a high investment goes into the process with flights, hotels, and time.
&gt;It's called lacking empathy and compassion.  Or people like to keep their hard earned money. Don't paint somebody as greedy for trying to keep what they have earned.   &gt;Until you've walked a mile in another person's shoes, it's hard to know what they've gone through and what they battle.  Everybody faces their own challenges in life, successful people don't let them become excuses.
Whoever has the data very likely has both, but why post both? A list of passwords is only valuable if you have the account info to go with each password, and nobody would be stupid enough to just give that away.
I would like to get to meet these people who think rent-2-own is a great idea.  I see a river of profits.  I remember a friend of mine worked at a pawn shop.  He said people would end up paying $100 for something that was worth maybe $20 on eBay.
"The problem was they had crazy incentives like ""make 2x your average on Tuesdays before noon"" that would never be possible for anyone to do without creating fake accounts. Everyone in the company knew this was happening. Most employees would try to open accounts for family members with permission but others just used randoms"
Be interesting to see how this falls in line with new rules on data protection in the EU (and probably more relevant, the UK as it's maintaining them after Brexit..).  Some of the data being held may well not be shareable without consent and if someone turns a spotlight on banks sharing data it could get quite ugly quite quickly.
Hehe, I feel your pain.. well, 'pain' isn't really the feeling though is it.  I was unemployed for several years when I was younger, and I loved it. It taught me 2 things: you need to be careful with your money, and you don't need money to be happy. I loved the freedom, the carefree attitude I had to the world, the ability to do many things not constrained by having to spend all day in an office, to be with my mates a lot. If your problem is that you are being too miserly ($3 researching better product... we all do that, though not for $3 except on ebay sometimes) then put a cost on your time. If it took you 3 hours to research the $3 saving, and your time is worth even just $10 an hour to you, then you've not saved anything. You've wasted 'money'. If, on the other hand, you're more worried about hoarding money and being unproductive and a bad social citizen, get involved in investing it instead. Let someone else put it to good use, whilst giving you some return.
If it's not the classic scam described in Daniel Anderson's answer, then it's probably money laundering. In that case, the woman would actually wire you money, which you have to wire to someone else she names. This is done to enter illegally gained money into the regular money circulation, hiding the trail. If this is the case, you would have to do many transfers, and the woman might actually pay you for performing this service. And then, one day, when the FBI/police busts some people and follows the illegal money trail they'll end up at your dad. Or rather, at you, because the account is in your name. And then you'll have a lot of explaining to do and a lot of time in jail to think about what a bad idea this was. See this question for an example of this. This answer also touches on the subject. Close the account, and run away from this. No good will come of it. It's very simple: if someone you don't know (or sometimes, you do know) contacts you and offers you easy money, they are getting something out of it at your expense. Period. It might be a scam where they somehow end up with the money, or you might be doing something illegal for them, but it always benefits them, not you. As a final thought, you also write: I had to get the bank account in my name because my dad has bad notices on his records for falling for fraud traps ... What makes you think this time it will be different? Think carefully, because the bank account is in your name! So when the shit hits the fan, it's you who's in trouble.
"I am not saying it is fair, or that only they get to say ""this sucks"" I am saying that you should not be envious of them.    Also, try to remember that the programs like the one they made use of don't just help that family.  Foreclosures drive down property values.  Sure it sucks to see them basically get rewarded for an. . . . optimistic gamble shall we say. . . but they are not the only ones that benefited.  Their neighbors, some of whom likely are honest people who took a cautious path to home ownership, now will not have their homes decrease in value due to sister.  She gets an unfair reward, but it also helps avoid her neighbors getting unfairly dinged.  Not to mention that it is safer to have homes occupied, and they tend to be less likely to fall into disrepair.       Also,  try to remember that every house that does go back to the bank means one more family of renters.  Banks tend to sit on homes, often for way way longer than they should, leaving that house empty, while the former tenants try to rent.  Pour more renters into the pool while banks sit on unsold vacant homes and landlords can be more picky and charge more for rent.   But in the end. . . .man your rent sucks."
It's their money, if they don't want to spend it right now, how does that *hurt* anyone?  Until they spend their money, they have done a bunch of work and received useless pieces of paper.  In the period between when they make the money and when they spend it, other people can use that wealth for their own tasks.  What the hell is going on in articles like these? How could anyone possibly believe something so far from reality?
this sounds right, it echoes what i notice.  to fight the tendency in myself i make a point of trying to engage with people who have very different views than mine, and understand their viewpoint.  but over the last couple weeks its become very difficult
"i think separate accounts is the simplest way to go. if the tax breaks are significant, then the inconvenience should be worth it.  you could gift or loan money back and forth. done properly, it should be technically legal (or grey enough to not cause irs trouble). specifically, they could gift you 100k$ in january and then you could gift them 110k$ in december, leaving a net gift of 10k$ for the year from you to them, which is under the annual gift tax exclusion. based on market performance, you could gift back exactly enough to hit the gift tax exclusion and keep the rest in their ""account"" with you. loans would work similarly, but the irs tends to treat undocumented or interest-free loans as weird gifts. but honestly, you might just be trading day-to-day overhead for tax audit risk. lastly, no offense meant, but i suspect that your strategy is probably just some form of martingale betting system, and you might cause some serious family strife when you eventually meet your gambler's ruin. even if everything goes smoothly, it would take some serious trust for your family to assume that you only netted them 10% roi, when your spending habits make it look like you are getting 30%. even if you used a single account, documenting the trades to their satisfaction might be more hassle than maintaining a separate account. personally, i would not trade family accord for another 2% roi."
Over the last few years I've read quite a bit about monetary history.   I've developed two very important rules from this study: If you follow these two rules you will be able to weather almost any governmental or banking crisis.
Check use is declining here too, but it still has some practical advantages over electronic means:
I like HSAs. My employer had one for one year, but then took it away. Money you put into an HSA is tax-advantaged, you can invest it however you want, it can be used for healthcare if you need it, and you can stop adding to it at any time. You're healthy now, but it's likely there will be a time when you're not, and then it would be nice to have money already available.
HDFC Bank offers an easy and comfortable way to hold the foreign currency for NRIs with a RFC Savings Account. You can  deposit money in 4 different currencies and anytime convert them into money. Apply for an HDFC Bank RFC Account now!
I agree with all of the answers, but knowing the amount of money saved will give new ideas to use this money to help develope new concepts that will help humanity.
For Mac it's definitely iFinance.
There's a primer on valuing community banks by oddball Stocks, an investor who specializes in that kind of stuff. I can't link it cause I'm on my phone, but just search it up on Google and I'm sure you'll find it.
My spouse and I have our non-retirement savings in the following mental categories while house shopping: You will absolutely need 1.  I highly recommend 4 & 2.  3 is a personal choice.
The last time I checked (more than a year ago), Wells Fargo had the best rates and they provide next day delivery. They also have international ATMs in New York City.
This sounds like a pretty cool idea, and upon reflection, maybe not so crazy as it sounded to me at first.  One suggestion: introduce some (probably vaguely described) rule change that makes it easy for people to contribute from their retirement account(s).  That would allow you to plausibly increase the average contribution by a lot, maybe from hundreds like aranaxon described to thousands.  If I were trying to do this right now, I'd gather as much money as I could (obviously) and try like hell to make alliances with pension funds and other major non profits that routinely buy a lot of common stock.  Then I'd pick one fairly large bank and buy as much as possible.  Be aware of [poison pills](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poison_pill) and similar common arrangements that exist to prevent this sort of thing.  Partnering with other institutions would help to alleviate them.  Once I controlled (with my new-found buddies) a major bank, I'd be quick to replace the board and fire senior management.  I'd do everything possible to get around paying any [golden parachutes](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_parachute).  Then make all the changes I want to the bank's practices.  The general idea would be that, after this, the *threat* of doing it to another bank would be enough to get them to change, without actually having to pull off a corporate takeover.
You need your transit, branch account and SWIFT code. Example, CIBC: To get this information as it pertains to you, it is best to go to your bank in person.
Here's what I would do:
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While in London for a month about a year ago, I had similar issues. I ended up getting a prepaid chip-and-pin card that was filled with cash. I don't remember the retailer that sold me this, but I figure it'll give you something to start your search.
The Coinstar machine effectively reverses at least a portion of this attrition of coins and accumulation of large bills; the store can now receive coins and pay out large bills as a part of its day to day business, reducing or even eliminating the need to have a bank or armored car perform this service. Anyway, check and see whether the CoinStar machine you last used is still operating on a percentage-fee basis; it might be the case that the store has purchased the machine outright and is offering its services free of charge. If not, look around; other stores may be waiving the CoinStar fee where this one isn't (or they may have similar, non-CoinStar branded machines). Lastly, as other answers have mentioned, if you cash out in the form of a gift card, there's no fee, so you can pick a gift card to a store you're likely to visit anyway; in the U.S. there are a lot of good choices, like home improvement stores, Starbucks, major department stores/clothing retailers, and even an airline."
For a lease, your payment is a function of sale price minus residual value. If the car has a low residual value then the lease payments will be higher. If it has a high residual value then lease payments will be lower but the purchase price at the end of the lease will be higher (potentially even higher than the KBB of the car). There is no gaming the system. Whether you buy now or lease now and buy later, you will be paying for the entire car.   Calculate the payments in both scenarios with appropriate interest rates/money factors, sale price, and residual value. This will demonstrate there is no free lunch to be had here. Also, don't forget that financing the vehicle after a three year lease will probably mean a higher interest rate than if you were to finance it all now. With a purchase now you will likely get more favorable financing terms and be able to talk them down on sale price. Leasing will not allow such flexibility generally.   Tldr No, that's not how it works. If you plan on owning the car for the duration of a loan (e.g. 5 years) it will be cheaper to just finance now.
My home town an uber driver was picking up passengers while on a shooting rampage. All those things can easily be set up in an app. And I still would like the choice to pay with cash. This has been done for many years.    https://arcade.city/ looks like an alternative.
"No, I would feel guilty if I did something like in the original submission... Went to a store, tried something on, compared it with other items, asked the sales clerk for help, and then said, ""OK, thanks for everything!"" and turned around and gave my money to Amazon."
Buy used vending machines, fill them with high margin high demand shelf stable items, negotiate leases in high traffic areas. For example, single diapers and servings of formula at a children's playground. Or flipflops and breath mints outside a night club.
"It's all about what you value personally. I'm mid-30s and drive a $40K ""luxury"" sports car.  I also happen to wear a $6K wristwatch every day.  I purchased both of these items because I thought they were beautiful when I saw them. On the flip side, because I spent 6 years living below the poverty line, I instinctively spend almost nothing on a daily basis.  My food budget is less than $50 a week, and I never go out to eat.  I wear my clothes and shoes and coats until they have holes, and I drove my previous car (a Toyota) into the ground.  My cell phone is 5 years old.  The walls of my apartment are bare.  I don't have cable TV, I don't subscribe to newspapers or magazines, and I don't own a pet.  In all of these cases I don't feel like I'm ""sacrificing"" anything; food and clothes and cell phones and pets just don't matter to me. If you truly feel that you're missing something in your life by not having a luxury car -- that owning one would be more satisfying than owning the corresponding tens of thousands of dollars -- then go for it.  Just be sure to consider all the other things that money could buy before you do. Lastly, buy in cash.  Don't make monthly payments unless you enjoy giving money away to the bank!"
I don't suppose you  could keep it in your pocket and just spend it? That's what I do.
"A retail revolving account is essentially a credit card offered by a store (or chain of stores) and usable only at that store. In my area, the Sears department store's ""Sears card"" would be a good example. Stores offer these to capture a bit more profit from the transaction. They don't have to pay someone else's processing fees, and they get to keep any interest you pay. Of course they also accept the costs that go along with retail lending. It operates just like any other revolving-credit card. Read the fine print of the agreement to see what the grace period is, if any, and what APR they're charging after that. These cards also serve as a marketing tool. Some stores don't accept any other card. Some can do ""instant approvals"" to encourage you to make a large purchase now rather than continuing to shop around. Some may offer special deals only if you use their card -- I paid 0% interest for a year on my refrigerator, which was convenient for me. And so on. Gasoline stations also used to offer their own cards... though these days it's common for them to offer a branded version of one of the major credit cards instead."
On the off chance that I am not wrong, at that point you should be included money and you are proposing to get it by offering your garbage auto. This is genuinely a smart thought, as there are a large number of auto merchants who demonstrate their enthusiasm for old autos. Your auto specialist needs to have disclosed to you the money for garbage autos Tampa which couldn't be more than two or three hundred dollars.