vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"Your bank Lloyds sent the Australian bank $500 AUD, having converted $317.90 GBP at a rate of 1.5728 AUD per GBP which was slightly less than the published rate which normally applies to transfers measured in hundred thousands if not millions of pounds. Using the published rate amounts to an unstated fee of 11 AUD which you are not complaining about. You also paid a fee to Lloyds of 20 GBP which you disclosed after I had posted this answer. The Australian bank refused to accept the payment because the account to which the money had to be deposited was closed. Perhaps, instead of just sending back $500 AUD, it converted the amount to GBP (less its fee of what I suspect is $60 AUD) and sent it back. Notice that the bank rate of 1.592 AUD per GBP says that 276.58 GBP is what you get from a tad over $440 AUD, and so perhaps St George's charged you a $60 AUD fee for the conversion while converting the rest ($440 AUD) to GBP. Or maybe Lloyds got $500 AUD from St Georges and charged you a $60 AUD fee for converting it to GBP. Regardless of who did the conversion, it is also possible that the rate you got (not quite as good as the published rate) corresponds to $450 AUD converting to 276.58 GBP and a $50 AUD fee for the conversion. You said I was told by Lloyds TSB that St. Georges wouldn't levy any charges, as they would be paid a separate ""agent's fee"". This might have been told to you as ""St. Georges will not be levying any charges if you send $500 AUD for deposit to the account in Australia and your payee will get exactly $500 AUD if you pay us 317.90 GBP plus 20 GBP as our conversion fee today. If you want to send GBP instead, we cannot tell you how much to send because St. George's will levy a charge for conversion to AUD, and the conversion will be at the rate then prevailing. So your payee may receive more or less than $500 AUD."
This would be exactly the sort of product that a thief would want, if they had got ahold of some account numbers and wanted to steal the money from those accounts, in a way that would let them spend it as conveniently as possible. That should explain why I think it's unlikely that any such product exists.
&gt;Yeah, you don't understand how this stuff works. The cost of changing banks is so high most people just grumble and eat it. It took a massive national campaign to switch to Credit Unions and still only 250K people did.   So you're saying free-market ideology is wrong?
Remember that converting from EU to USD and the other way around always costs you money, at least 0.5% per conversion. Additionally, savings accounts in EU and USA have different yields, you may want to compare which country offers you the best yields and move your money to the highest yielding account.
Get a checking account with Ally Bank. They refund all ATM fees from within the US, so effectively, every ATM transaction will have no surcharge.
Call them ask for a delay on your $25 per week fee and send them a check and a written letter saying to close the account once the balance to zero.   If they deny your delay of $25 per week fee, send them a express package by Fedex, DHL or the post office.  That should run about $25, so in comparison to the fee its like paying one week. Be sure to close your account and be clear on how to do so from overseas.
<< UWCFS Quick CARD >>  denominated in Euros € steps Fees are here (question 1).
This depends on the practise and applications available with the Beneficiary Bank. For a corporate customer, the details are show. For Retail customers they are generally not shown.
If anyone hasn't done this yet, all three companies have waived the fees. I just did it and a couple weeks ago, I set up an account with the Social Security Administration where you can get notified any time someone is trying to use your social security number. There's two-step authentication as well.
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Call in to the bank using a publicly available number to verify the request.
Capital One 360. No minimums balance, no fees. Everything's online. Make deposits using an app or an image of the check. ATMs are free almost everywhere.
1.  this is not the correct sub, try /r/Entrepreneurs or similar 2. Banks only care about 1 thing: collaterals with personal guarantee from the owners/shareholders of the business. Nothing else matters, don't waste your time with a business plan.  (Yes ELI: bank only give money to people who have money).
If you're worried about the account number just take a statement and black out the account number with a Sharpie or the like.  That is if the account number even appears on it, these days it often doesn't.
Hey!  You!  Yes you!  Did you bother to read the requirements for this subreddit?  Here, let me post them:  1. This is not the place to promote your business. Any and every post promoting a business in any capacity will be removed.  2. Spamming will result in an instant ban. No mercy for spammers.  **DO NOT POST YOUR SPAM HERE, SELFISH ASSHOLE.**
Businesses you are already established with may do a soft pull to pre-qualify you for an offer.  They store the information and if you accept, may instantly setup and account.  You may also see language to the effect that they may do an inquiry (hard pull) - I guess if their data is old.  When you went outside of Amazon to Chase, they did a hard pull on their side which is what you saw.
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It is possible. You'll have to call the bank and ask what documentation is required, I'm pretty sure they'll want notarized authorization by all partners, at least.
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They still mail you one for free if you sign up.  But if you go get one at the store it's still free in the end since they refund the money, plus you get something to play with in 5 minutes rather than 5-6 days of shipping.  Either way...easy and free to set up.
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we're grateful that you took the time to read the newest post made by my friend matt perry nguyen in buildingbusinesscreditblog.com. we hope you can also post your comments and suggestions on this piece. in behalf of my friend and fellow poster a million thanks!
• Hvis den nye virksomhed er en afgiftspligtig levering - for eksempel afgifter moms på det forsyner - det gør den konkurrencedygtig? F. eks. B&amp;B indkomst er levering af indkvartering og forplejning og hvis aggregerede med en main (momsregistreret) virksomhed, vil det være nødt til at opkræve 20% moms. Forskellige virksomhedsejere til virksomheden kan hjælpe, men pas på HMRC ""opdeling"" regler, der skal forhindre kunstige opdeling af virksomheder. **Kapital og finansiering** • Helt nye ventures kræver driftskapital. Hvordan vil det være forudsat - enten interne familie lån, eller ekstern finansiering via bank eller anden kilde - og hvad kan det gøre for resten af virksomheden? • En separat bankkonto m ay blive behov for nye forretninger, hvis med en anden ejer. Det er under alle omstændigheder altid god husholdning til at holde transaktioner separat og transparent, ikke kun fordi det kan være et krav, men også for at det nye joint venture og dets bidrag kan en omkostningsvurdering og overvåges. **Aktivering af næste generation** • er dette et projekt for at få næste generation driver? Det kan give stor erfaring og selvstændighed, igen at gøre brug af basissatsen bands.
If you are using paypal to sell items online, you need a Premier (or better) account rather than personal. Paypal states: Our fees are the same for Personal, Premier, and Business accounts.   [...] If you use your PayPal account to request money from someone,   you'll be charged a fee when you receive the payment.
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Call Wells Fargo or go to a branch.  Tell them what you're trying to accomplish, not the vehicle you think you should use to get there.  Don't tell them you want to ACH DEBIT from YOUR ACCOUNT of YOUR MONEY.  Tell them you apparently need a paperless transaction sent to this and that account at this and that bank.  See if they offer a solution.
I'd have a look at Capital One's Online account too, they've got 1.35% interest rate with 10% bonus if you have over $15k deposited. It is still low like all interest rates, but at least it is on top (or at least close)!
It sounds like you've found a decent bank. I suspect some may not realize they don't have to bank with the big 8 (or however many there are).  Once enough people start moving their money elsewhere the banks will begin to wake up and change their behavior.
Depending on the particulars, you could get an Amex Serve account, load it into your Serve account, have them send a check for $150 to a family member of yours, and then have your family member transfer $150 to you seperately.
"If ""Bank of America"" is truly a hard-and-fast requirement, the best solution is to go to a branch and see what they can do. If they turn you down, it likely can't be done."
All banks in the US that I have ever worked with will allow you to deposit checks if: In your case, you have 3 options:
Could you perhaps expand on your reasoning behind wanting to take a loan in the first place? Why would you even consider taking a loan for as much as £7,500 (or even much less) if you aren't planning on buying / investing in anything in particular, and you're not in a bad financial situation? If your account never drops below a hundred or two pounds, why would you need to loan money? Just get yourself a credit card, for those times when you might find yourself without money for a short while. But really, it sounds to me like you should be able to set aside a small sum of money every month and create your own savings buffer to cover these situations.
I've had good experiences with a regional bank. All the perks of Wells but without the bullshit fees (except ATMs unfortunately but I just get cash back in the rare instance that a card / my phone won't cut it).
You will be charged a stock borrow fee, which is inversely related to the relative supply of the stock you are shorting. IB claims to pay a rebate on the short proceeds, which would offset part or all of that fee, but it doesn't appear relevant in your case because: It is a bit strange to me that IB would not require you to keep the cash in your account, as they need the cash to collateralize the stock borrow with the lending institution.  In fact, per Regulation​ T, the short position requires an initial margin of 150%, which includes the short proceeds. As described by Investopedia: In the first table of Figure 1, a short sale is initiated for 1,000   shares at a price of $50. The proceeds of the short sale are $50,000,   and this amount is deposited into the short sale margin account. Along   with the proceeds of the sale, an additional 50% margin amount of   $25,000 must be deposited in the account, bringing the total margin   requirement to $75,000. At this time, the proceeds of the short sale   must remain in the account; they cannot be removed or used to purchase   other securities. Here is a good answer to your question from The Street: Even though you might see a balance in your brokerage account after   shorting a stock, you're actually looking at a false credit, according   to one big brokerage firm. That money is acting as collateral for the   short position. So, you won't have use of these funds for investment   purposes and won't earn interest on it. And there are indeed costs associated with shorting a stock. The   broker has to find stock to loan to you. That might come out of a   broker's own inventory or might be borrowed from another stock lender.
Mango is legit, there are some other forums out there with some reviews and discussion about whether or not it's worth the effort of setting it up and following the rules to realize the maximum benefit. The main downside is that Mango is fee-heavy: ATM fees, monthly fees, etc. One person did a calculation that if you follow all the rules and minimize fees, your maximum benefit above what you can get at other online banks with enticing rewards or interest rates is about $250/yr. Is $250 worth the hassle of following the Mango rules? You'll have to decide.
"I believe MrChrister's answer is correct:  Since they're FDIC insured, they are ""legit.""  Second, on the seemingly too-good-to-be-true rate: They're basically making up the difference on other fees (not necessarily paid by you) in order to offer you the higher-than-market rate. I'd like to point out two things not mentioned about the current rate offer, though: The high 4.09% APY advertised is only on balances up to $25,000; anything over that threshold is at a lower 1.01% APY. The offer also states in the footnotes: ""Rates may change after the account is opened."" You might want to see if they have a good history of paying higher than average interest rates. You wouldn't want to switch only to find out the promotional rate was a teaser that soon gets reduced."
If the FDIC didn't insure your deposit, there would be a run on EVERY bank, so there is no way the government will let it fail or go broke.  It will be backstopped one way or another.  So I wouldn't worry about losing my money.   The only worry is the hassle of having to deal with the bank failure and getting at your money and getting it out.  There could be a few days of illiquidity while the government is stepping in to sort things out.  If that scares you or would be a big problem, then I'd find a safer choice.
It's funny, I was complaining about this very same phenomenon in a different thread maybe a week ago. It seems like the RA is the only way to go if you have any sort of power over the I-Banks
Generally, if you watch for the detail in the fine print, and stay away from non-FDIC insured investments, there is little difference, so yes, pick the highest you can get. The offered interest rate is influenced by what the banks are trying to accomplish, and how their current and desired customer base thinks. Some banks have customer bases with very conservative behavior, which will stick with them because they trust them no matter what, so a low interest rate is good enough. The disadvantage for the bank is that such customers prefer brick-and-mortar contact, which is expensive for the bank. Or maybe the bank has already more cash than they need, and has no good way to invest it. Other banks might need more cash flow to be able to get stronger in the mortgage market, and their way of getting that is to offer higher interest rates, so new customers come and invest new money (which the bank in turn can then mortgage out). They also may offer higher rates for online handling only. Overall, there are many different ways to make money as a bank, and they diversify into different niches with other focuses, and that comes with offering quite different interest rates.
Or at least I saw it do so with Bank of America.
"I've been wondering the same thing - I can't find any ""official"" information from the banks, but there is the following info: So, if it's all with the same bank - try it! The worst that can happen is that the bank won't credit your ISA and will refund you."
Depends on how close to her limits she is now -- it's entirely up to the bank.
A better answer is to put the money in a Dodd-Frank qualified non interest bearing checking account.  FDIC covers the entire balance, there is no upper limit on the insurance.  This will only be good till the end of 2012 but for short term landing spot this works well.  Forget the interest you will earn and go for the safety of the principal.
"Your money in the bank is yours. If you lose your bank card and forget the account number, it's still yours. It's just harder to prove. If your name is Joe Smith, it might be harder to find your bank account and to prove it's yours.  If ""go to the bank"" means walking into a branch of the bank and walking out with your money fifteen minutes later, that's unlikely to happen. More likely they will give you forms to fill in to maximise chances of finding your account, and tell you what evidence to bring to prove that you are the owner of the account."
I would not take any action with the check (neither return it nor cash it), but instead contact the bank.  We live in the modern era where you can call someone on the phone or email them, and get nearly instant feedback.  Use this to your advantage.  Find out why they refunded you the money twice: was it an error on their part (in which case you just tear up the check or return it to them and be done with it)?  Is it possible you're wrong about it being twice refunded (maybe the first check didn't go through properly or was only for half the amount, and you're just wrong)?  Maybe they had some sort of guarantee that they failed to live up to and are correctly refunding you double your money. Probably the first, of course.  But you should call them and ask, and verify what they want you to do, before you take any action - particularly one that costs you money.  And certainly don't just cash the check; if it is a mistake, they'll be asking for that money back later, with interest, and be within their rights to do so.
&gt; accessing all atms fee free, having services available 24/7, having robust, safe and audited online services, and having a big enough bank that all major third party tools interface with it.   You just described my single state credit union I've been with for 19 years now, and not the big bank I was with before (Wells Fargo).
&gt; Next time you call your bank (or credit card company), ask them some pointed questions: Do you have a financial or data sharing agreement with Equifax? If so, why?       Next time you are deciding WHICH bank to use, preferably for a significant relationship (ie million dollar + loan, business relationship, etc), you ask them then.       A bank teller has no power.  If you are already a customer, they don't care.  No one gets bonuses for customer retention, bonuses are for new business.  That's when people will care about your questions.
Note that having the money in your savings/investments may impress the bank as much as, or more than, paying down this commitment. I would not advise rushing into an action that arguably reduces you financial options; it isn't likely to help.
I don't see why an online-only bank would need to do anything more against fraud than a bank that also has brick-and-mortars. In the contrary, they would need less (physical) security, as they don't have to protect cash, lock boxes, and other physical assets. All banks nowadays have an online business, so they all have the same online fraud risks, and they all need the same level of protection.
I won't think so. Too much trouble for the compliance and internal audit team. Unless you are moving money from Russia, Iran or those non-FATCA countries.
Check out CitiGold from Citibank. Not sure about incoming international wires but everything else seems to be covered.
There's obviously a lot of discussion surrounding your question, but if I thought a bank was going under, then yes, absolutely I would withdraw my money. Now, we can debate whether me thinking the bank was going under was foolish or not, but if I truly believed it, I can't see why I would sit around and do nothing.
Many reasons mentioned already. The reason why I have multiple is missing: I have a personal card for my private use and a company card for company use.
I use two different brokerages, both well-known. I got a bit spooked during the financial crisis and didn't want to have all my eggs in one basket. The SIPC limits weren't so much a factor. At the time, I was more worried about the hassle of dealing with a Lehman-style meltdown. If one were to fail, the misery of waiting and filing and dealing with SIPC claims would be mitigated by having half of my money in another brokerage. In hindsight, I was perhaps a bit too paranoid. Dealing with two separate brokerages is not much of an inconvenience, though, and it's interesting to see how their web interfaces are slightly different and some things are easier to do with one vs the other. Overall, they're really similar and I can't say there's much advantage (other than my tin-foil hat tendencies) to splitting it up like that.
Behind the scenes of banking are a lot of very manual processes especially when something goes wrong. These take extra time not only because it involves people reviewing what went wrong but also because the bank will take extra steps to reduce human error (e.g. technical jargon about maker/checker, dual controls). Something like this can easily get held up for a month and the best way to jump the queue is to start complaining a lot, calling customer service frequently, asking to talk to management and otherwise pestering the bank until someone senior gets your problem fast-tracked so you stop giving them a headache.
My wife and I have a different arrangement.  I like to track everything down to the transaction level.  She doesn't want everything tracked.  We have everything joint and I track everything except she has one credit card where I do not see the statements only the total.  She is more comfortable, because she can buy things without me seeing the price for individual transactions.
I've had loans from B of A and Wells Fargo, and both have always been quick to correct any mistakes and work with me on any problems.  I think it may be partly due to the fact that I understand the problem, can clearly tell them what I expect, and I treat them like an equal that would want to help fix the problem.  Some people seen to always have problems, and others seem to never have them.  I believe there is a reason for that.