vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"we had a sears just go out of business. for the first week of their going out of business ""sale"" they actually *increased* some of their prices. wtf? the second week of their sale everything was supposed to be market down but was actually regular price. no wonder they are going out of business."
How many from the board will go to jail?    If this was a structural engineering firm and every building that they made over the last decade collapsed, or at least a sizable number of them collapsed, they would be facing multiple life terms. But since they are bankers/investment companies, they can not be charged with gross incompetence/negligence for their failures.
This happens to my dad all the time. He requires a deposit up front, but sometimes he'll let people slide without a deposit, or they refuse to pay the balance or something.   After he has called and harrassed them about it, he boxes up the files of people that don't pay and hands it off to a lawyer. He has a deal worked out where he provides the lawyer with all the paperwork and the lawyer gets to keep 20% of whatever he can collect. The rest is just written off.  The key thing is determining how much time and money you want to sink trying to get that money back. You don't know the likelihood of actually collecting that money, and every hour you spend on it is an hour you could spend generating more business
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Wages were not what did Circuit City in that is a very bold assumption. I would say the saturation of the electronics market and the failing (at the time) carmax was the beginning of the end. Not to mention the failed Canada expansion project.
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The problem is a little deeper than that. What you are witnessing is a change in the economy, a transformation so to say. Many people in society are unaware of this, the unadapted as I call them. Check this if you curious about this transformation, I believe its a good thing. https://www.cityxcape.com/secret-spots/2017/10/15/battle-of-ideas
If you buy, you also have to consider what others can afford to pay. If people are not going to pay more than 50k, why buying overpriced crap for 400k, which is going to be cheap in 5 years. Just rent out and wait for a deal or cheaper rent near-by.
I actually didn't do the math with your numbers, but I recall Sal from Khan Academy did a nice video about your question, challenging the notion that it is always better to buy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL10H_EcB-E
It seems pretty clear to me that one of two things will happen regarding your local housing market: Personally, I'd hold out until either 1 or 2 happens, and then buy. (Assuming you plan to stay in your town regardless.) If you wait you'll end up with either a stronger investment or a big discount.
Wow. People with mortgages could at least get a foreclosure and ~~walk~~ limp away. Now there are legions of people with debt on the same order of magnitude that are chained to it for life.  Feeling the tension of that bubble yet?
Surely because higher education participation has increased there are a larger number of students with debt which means less demand for absurdly priced homes which means prices will drop to affordable levels.  But we can't talk about markets working normally when it comes to home prices which always remain high! Right?
If you have a rental property, take the income from that property and then invest it in a dividend fund, or sell the property and invest those proceeds. Borrowing against a house or other property is just not a great idea.   Rule 1: Don't borrow against a house.  Rule 2: For any substantial advice, go to a financial advisor, not reddit.  Rule 3: Don't borrow against a house.
&gt;housing market bubble There is no bubble, there is lack of supply. Skyrocketing rents as you mentioned above is the opposite of a housing market bubble. It's the symptom of a severe housing market shortage. House building needs to increase dramatically and it will in areas that reduce regulations. &gt;lack of real banking reform Dodd-Frank and other regulations are on the chopping block, which will help. Reforms are coming. Large banks are shielded from real competition by all these laws. I'd like to see more ""startup banks"" competing. &gt;record household debt [Nope, not even close.](https://fred.stlouisfed.org/series/FODSP) Households have deleveraged since the financial crisis and are in better shape than they've been in a few decades. &gt;Republicans controlling all three branches of government AKA, there's a high chance that taxes and regulations will be reduced, which is good for economic growth."
"How to spend the money is up to you. That includes spending money on your house. (This is a safer way to look at it than an ""investment"". Not that it can't ever be treated as such, but that doing so often makes it easy to justify bad decisions and overspending on the house.) So with regards to the mortgage: So if it's not a monstrously huge deal, you might prefer to avoid default. Now,  how to invest the rest while waiting to spend it, now..."
Unless u borrow for a house but just get a financial advisor - i highly recommend the co. I work for. Pm me if u want details though it sounds like u may go the diy route which is fine but 9 out if 10 times it takes nonprofessionals longer. I deal with clients and advisors who do this all the time.
All else constant, yes. It's one more reason rates aren't being raised quickly. The housing market is very delicate. Before the crash, a lot of homes in my area were 25% cheaper than after the rates dropped to historic lows. My area wasn't heavily affected by the recession, but homeowners still greatly benefitted from the increase in housing values which led to a lot more investment, though the houses aren't actually worth anything more.   To raise rates dramatically now would be to trap a lot of homebuyers in homes that aren't worth what they owe.
Step back and take a deep breath. Pay your mortgage. repeat 1 and 2 monthly until equity > mortgage.
Get on a written budget at the BEGINNING of the month. If you dont write down where your money goes BEFORE you spend it, you have no way of keeping track of it.  I couldn't do a thing until I got on a written budget but now that I am, I've paid off $10,000 in 7 months.
I would sit down with the creditors and negotiate smallest amount you can get before agreeing with whatever you have to pay. Think that, for them, it's much more convenient to get way less than $36K than to see you in collections. Needless to say, don't tell them you have to money to cancel off :-)
"Here's what my wife and I did. First, we stopped using credit cards and got rid of all other expenses that we absolutely didn't need. A few examples: cable TV, home phone, high end internet - all shut off. We changed our cell phone plan to a cheap one and stopped going out to restaurants or bars. We also got rid of the cars that had payments on them and replaced them with ones we paid cash for. Probably the most painful thing for me was selling a 2 year old 'vette and replacing it with a 5 year old random 4 door. Some people might tell you don't do this because older cars need repairs. Fact is, nearly all cars are going to need repairs. It's just a matter of whether you are also making payments on it when they need them and if you can discipline yourself enough to save up a bit to cover those. After doing all this the only payments we had to make were for the house (plus electric/gas/water) and the debt we had accumulated. I'd say that if you have the option to move back into your parent's house then do it. Yes, it will suck for a while but you'll be able to pay everything off so much faster. Just make sure to help around the house. Ignore the guys saying that this tanks your score and will make getting a house difficult. Although they are right that it will drop your score the fact is that you aren't in any position to make large purchases anyway and won't be for quite some time, so it really doesn't matter. Your number one goal is to dig yourself out of this hole, not engage in activity that will keep you in it. Next, if you are only working part time then you need to do one of two things. Either get a full time job or go find a second part time one. The preference is obviously on the first, which you should be able to do in your spare time. If, for some reason, you don't have the tech skills necessary to do this then go find any part time job you can. It took us about 3 years to finally pay everything (except the house) off - we owed a lot.
Put your budget down on paper/spreadsheet/tool of choice (e.g Mint, YNAB, Excel).  Track every cent for a few months.  Seeing it written down makes The Financial Conversation easier.  One simple trick is to pay yourself first.  Take $100 and sock it away each month, or $25 per paycheck - send it to another account where you won't see it.  Then live off the rest. For food - make a meal plan.  Eggs are healthy and relatively cheap so you have breakfast covered.  Oatmeal is about $2 for a silos' worth.  Worst case you can live off of ramen noodles, peanut butter and tuna for a month while you catch up.  Cut everything as some of the others have answered - you will be amazed how much you will not miss. Dave Ramsey's baby steps are great for getting started (I disagree with DR on a great many things so that's not advocating you sign up for anything). Ynab's methodology is actually what got me out of my mess - they have free classes in their website - where budgeting is about planning and not simply tracking. Good luck.
And depending on how they're timed, you are probably feeling a serious squeeze in between paychecks. I recognize that you're asking specific questions, but I think that just based on the questions you need a bit more careful backing into the budget. And you REALLY need to track what you're spending for the time being, until you can say... right, we usually spend about this much on X... how can we cut it out? From there the basics of getting your financial house in order are splattered across the interwebs. Make a budget... stick to it... pay down debts... save. Develop goals and mini incentives/rewards as a way to make sure your change your psyche about following a budget."
If you have sufficient money to support yourself until you have a career, then paying off your student loan principal on unsubsidized, federal loans, is probably your best bet. This is because interest accumulates before you're actually required to pay. If they are private, make the payment on the highest interest rate loans.
I'd suggest you start with a budget that includes savings, the minimum payment for those loans, estimates for recurring expenses, entertainment, and lifestyle items. That will let you baseline how much money you need for the lifestyle you want to have. Then apply your income to that model and whatever is left distribute out to your loans starting with the highest risk (not forgivable in bankruptcy/would make you homeless if you don't pay) and highest interest rate.
Your priorities should be: If you end up with additional debt from, say, credit cards, you should probably try to get rid of that first, as it's almost certainly at a higher interest rate than a subsidized student loan. Because you actually have a grace period, I assume these are Federally subsidized loans. Note that there are alternative payment plans available if you are unemployed/underemployed that you should take advantage of, if need be. See Income-based Repayment and related pages for details.
"So what is preventing people from racking up as much credit card debt as possible in cash advances or consumer goods or whatnot, and then walking away from it?  Then rinse and repeat once the debt is ""gone forever""?  It seems too good to be true - either there's something missing there, or people would be getting tens of thousands of dollars for free every half decade..."
Sensationalist much? The economy has picked back up, people are optimistic about the future, more secure with their jobs, and thus debts of all sorts should be increasing. The question is how much can be handled before collapse? Well, from this article's own admission default rates and delinquencies are at historic lows. The 1t in debt means nothing without the context.
Fund the Roth. If your loan interest is deductible (see firedfly's comment) then your effective cost for the loan is lower than 6.25% You get tax free earnings on the same amount in a Roth. Assuming you can get 6%, it's at least break even, probably better. And you can never gain back the time for compounding on the retirement account. With that said, there may be an emotional component to the decision. If you really just want to get rid of the debt, go ahead and do it.
"In the first years of a loan, most of what you're paying is interest, so my guess is that this is a bad idea. But there are lots of mortgage calculators offered for free on the web (your bank's website may have one) so I'd suggest that you spend some time running actual numbers before deciding. Reminder: Most renovations do NOT pay for themselves in increased sales price, not least because you'll lose the buyers who don't like what you've done but would have been happy to renovate it themselves to their own tastes. Unless there is something which will actively impair your ability to sell the house, you should usually renovate when you plan to stay there for a while and take your returns in enjoying the house more, NOT on the way out. (There's been some recent discussion of this over in Home Improvement, pointing out that the changes which return more than they cost are usually simple things like refreshing the paint, ""staging"" the house so it looks lived in but not cluttered, replacing damaged blinds, washing windows, putting out a few more flowers, and so on.)"
Does it cost money to refi? I know there are quite a few deals out there, I refi'd in June for $500, not bad. But sometimes can cost couple grand. If so, you have up front costs, plus the cost of the personal loan, that probably would break even at some point after your refi, but at what point? Will you sell before then, or even think about it? Or would you break even next year, then its a no brainer. As mentioned by others, do the numbers.
**Zeg ""Nee"" tegen het idee van meer schulden** Je bent hier omdat u krijgen uit de buurt van schulden wilde, niet te verontschuldigen meer toe te voegen. Bouw die de denkrichting van een sterker en gedisciplineerde zodat je altijd ""Nee"" schulden sinds zeggen kunt er altijd is verleidelijk kunnen meer schulden oplopen. **Southbourne groep** zal ter afsluiting van dit artikel, laat dit citaat van Benjamin Franklin aan u als een herinnering dat het toevoegen van meer aan uw schulden niet een goede zaak is, en dus het zegt, ""ga liever naar bed zonder diner dan stijgen in de schuld."""
I'd agree, inflation affects the value of the dollar you measure anything in. So, it makes your debt fade away at the same rate it eats away at dollar denominated assets. I'd suggest that one should also look at the tax effect of the debt or assets as well.  For example, my 3.5% mortgage costs me 2.625% after tax. But a 4% long term cap gain in stocks, costs me .6% in tax for a net 3.4%.
That's unlikely to be a good move.  After the penalties, you would have roughly $40k-$45k to apply to your debt.  But then what?  You'd still have $100k of debt, with no change in your income situation.  You would be sacrificing half of your retirement fund to reduce your debt by only a third. Two points from your question are notable.  First, you say your current job makes you eligible for loan forgiveness.  Second, you say you love what you do.  Given that, it sounds like it's likely you'll remain in your current job long enough to have your loan forgiven.  I would see this as a major reason to stick it out until that time.  It won't be painful from a work perspective, since you like the work (in contrast to someone who grinds through a job they dislike just to have their loan forgiven), but only from a budget perspective.  Also, since your income is less than $75k, you may be able to deduct the interest on a student loan payment on your taxes (see Publication 970), softening the blow somewhat. According to your numbers, your loan payment is a bit over 10% of your income.  That is not pleasant, but it doesn't seem out of the question that you could make it work through judicious budgeting.  It would depend on other aspects of your lifestyle and expenses (which you don't mention in the question, and which might go in a separate question if you start wondering how to do that budgeting).
I just received a transfer offer -  Seems to me, they don't care what I do with the proceeds. Options 1 & 2 make that clear.
Transferwise is a new peer-to-peer service that's setup to lower fees for international money transfers: https://transferwise.com
Be careful of transferring through the large banks. They may say no/low fees, but they hide their cut in the spread, or worsen the exchange rate, to their favor. Try:  - http://fxglobaltransfer.oanda.com/
There are a few standard ways: One thing to keep in mind is that you'll usually be charged a wire and/or service fee for the tranfer.
You've mostly got it figured out, but there are a couple of more points to consider: You'll be permanently losing a corresponding amount of your RRSP contribution room allowance, because the re-deposit of your funds into the new RRSP would count as a new contribution, the way you're proposing to things.   For a small amount, it might not matter much, and if you're like a lot of people, you may have more accumulated RRSP room than you can reasonably use up. There may be complications if spousal contributions were made into your account during the previous three years.
Hey Congrats!   A word of wisdom, don't just go blowing that money anywhere. Use what you need for the essentials, and save the rest for the big college you transfer too. This will help you not need to take out loans and keep you fiscally responsible.   Congrats again, you should be very proud of how hard you have worked.
I'd say the best course of action would be to call the card issuer and ask them. Converting can definitely be done, but you'll have to enquire about the bonus.
It's been a couple years since I worked on Transfer Pricing project.   It makes sense though. I'd imagine that's why Texas and Florida are doing, tax wise, so much better than California and other high tax states.
"I haven't seen anything specifically about how PayPal operates, but my guess is that they maintain relationships with banks in many countries via affiliates, and they settle the money transfers internally within the PayPal system. You basically have two types of bank transfers (there are others as well that I'm not getting into): I think PayPal is a hybrid -- they send and receive money using drafts to keep costs down, and manage the international stuff by operating a proprietary network. So if you send money from Indonesia to the US, you pay ""PayPal Indonesia"", who then tells ""PayPal USA"" to issue funds to your recipient. So they are cheaper than a wire, faster than a check, but limited in terms of transaction size and some other factors."
I'd certainly take a look at companies like UK Forex for transferring funds internationally.  Even if you get free wire transfers, the currency rates banks offer can be bad. My experience was transferring from NatWest to an Australian bank - saved my self hundreds of pounds by not using their swift service.
"&gt; Except that I check my balance 3 times a day and keep track not only where I'm at but also where i should be. I like numbers.   Q.E.D.  You're not ""balancing"" anything... hell, if you're ""checking your balance"" online 3x a day, you're not even ""remembering"" what you spent."
Why? Balance sheet is balance sheet, why is it complicated? Bank shareholders get dividends in exactly the same way as any other company shareholders do: the company ends up with net profits, which the board of directors decides to distribute to shareholders based on certain amount per share. If at all. Not all the profits are distributed, and in fact - there are companies who don't distribute dividends at all. Apple, for example, hasn't ever distributed dividends until very very recently.
Already did yesterday, to avoid the rush and holiday downtime. Received my email confirmations this morning, transfers in progress. I had just purchased this last one a wee bit over 2 months ago, so it was basically brand new. Also spread the word to other sites and web developers to make more people aware. As soon as transfers are complete, will send my email as to why they lost my business. Didnt want them to spit in my soup, so to speak.
For most major banks, wire transfers are simple, if expensive, to arrange.  For example, I can initiate an international wire transfer from my online banking portal.
You definitely should NOT do what you are doing now (#2) since this is not a reflection of what actually is going on.  (Unless you actually did transfer the equities themselves and not the cash.)    Your first option is correct solution. As noted by mpenrow you need to make sure that the target account is also tax deferred.  If that still doesn't work and there is a bug you should still do it this way anyway. If it messes up your tax planner just make sure to include a comment so that everyone knows what is really going on. When I have had issues like this in the past I always try to stick to whatever is the closest indication of what actually occurred.
This arrangement might be a bit of a pain, but what about Visa gift card(s)? The transfer of money just doesn't happen if the money isn't already on the card. See here.
So how can I transfer money from his ATM card to my account ? Some bank's ATM allow you to transfer the money from ATM card to bank account using at ATM Machine. So if there is no ATM, you can't transfer money with just ATM card.
When investigating transferring funds from the UK to Australia, I found the exchange rate offered by by banks for swift / Telegraphic transfers to be far below companies which specialise in international transfers.  Not applicable to you unfortunately, but I used http://www.ozforex.com.au/ and got a conversion rate which ended up netting me $100's of dollars compared with my banks, thanks to a better rate and no fee.
XE.com will do an ACH transfer for no fee, and they'll give you a better exchange rate than your bank.  I use them for converting CAD/USD.
"The rate for ""checks and transfers"" is set by each bank multiple times during the day based on the market. It is as opposed to the rate for ""cash/banknotes"", also set by each bank, and the ""representative rate"" (שער היציג) set by the Bank of Israel. These rates can be found on the websites of most banks. Here is Bank Hapoalim and Bank Leumi. The question is which bank's rate will be used. It might be the bank that issued your card, El Al's bank, or the credit card company (ie Poalim for Isracard or Leumi for CAL). You will need to call El Al to verify, but since these are market rates, they shouldn't be too different."