vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Traveller check require one signature at top when the check are purchased. Matching signature at bottom when you want to encash. So if there is no signature, you would need to get her signature, or as suggested mail it to her and get a regular check.
You should write a demand letter immediately, send the letter by certified mail, and then wait 30 days. Here is a sample demand letter for the state of california that you can send: http://www.courts.ca.gov/11151.htm It seems like most of the demand letters assumed that you tried to cash the check and incurred a service fee. Personally, I wouldn't risk incurring even most cost. Instead, after 30 days, I would take him to small claims court and show all the evidence you have (checks, receipts, and letters of correspondence).
"Paying tax is a Good Thing. However, warren has made good point and I would like you to consider this other thing: Go into your payees bank with the payee, get the money withdrawn from the teller and take it with you. Unless I am missing something, or the teller handed your payee fake notes, you are ""safe"""
"This is not a mistake. This is done for ""Out of Network"" providers, and mainly when the patient is an Anthem member, be it Blue Shield or Blue Cross. Even though an ""Assignment of Benefits"" is completed by the patient, and all fields on the claim from (CMS1500 or UB04) are completed assigning the benefits to the provider, Anthem has placed in their policy that the Assignment of Benefits the patient signs is null and void.  No other carrier that I have come across conducts business in this manner. Is it smart? Absolutely not! They have now consumed their member's time in trying to figure out which provider the check is actually for, the member now is responsible for forwarding the payment, or the patient spends the check thinking Anthem made a mistake on their monthly premium at some point (odds are slim) and is now in debt thousands of dollars because they don't check with Anthem.  It creates a huge mess for providers, not only have we chased Anthem for payment, but now we have to chase the patient and 50% of the time, never see the payment in our office. It creates more phone calls to Anthem, but what do they care, they are paying pennies on the dollar for their representatives in the Philippines to read from a script.  Anthem is the second largest insurance carrier in the US. Their profit was over 800 million dollars within 3 months. The way they see it, we issued payment, so stop calling us. It's amazing how they can accept a CMS1500, but not follow the guidelines associated with it.  Your best bet, and what we suggest to patients, either deposit the check and write your a personal check or endorse and forward. I personally would deposit the check and write a personal check for tracking purposes; however, keep in mind that in the future, you may depend on your bank statements for proof of income (e.g. Social Security) and imagine the work having to explain, and prove, a $20,000 deposit and withdraw within the same month."
The classic Nigerian scam involves sending fraudulent cashier's checks to unwitting recipients who then deposit them in their account.  The bank reverses these deposits once they discover the check is not valid.  At least in the US and in the parts of the EU I'm familiar with (the Netherlands), the method of the Nigerian scam is consistent and banks will reverse the deposit after some holding period. Given this, it's unlikely that most banks will convert an arbitrary cashier's check to cash without any means to recover the amount should the check be fraudulent.
Without purchasing blank check paper, you won't have any of the security features, such as microprinting, watermarks, erasure protection, anti-photocopying background, etc. As you mentioned, if you are depositing checks via mobile phone app, as some banks now allow, none of these security features are doing any good. The problem, however, is that you are not writing checks for yourself; you are writing checks to other people, and you have no way of knowing whether or not their banks are going to give them trouble with your checks. There is enough check fraud out there that lots of bank tellers are very cautious. I recommend sticking with check paper that has the security features because, if nothing else, it will make your check look more like a real check.
If it doesn't seem that important, why bother blacking the name out? For the effort, it might cost you less in your time to have the checks reprinted. There's no way to know what all banks would do with a check that has a name crossed out, but most would ignore it. Most checks are processed automatically. Signatures are not verified, post-dated checks can usually still be deposited. Occasionally you'll have a bank or merchant reject a check, but don't expect that to be the norm.
Most banks should give them. I exchange all the time.
This is not a finance issue, it is a legal one.  You need to talk to a lawyer. To save your credit you can pay off the bank now and fight out the details with your ex later.  The bank is still owed their money.
First: I am not a tax lawyer. This is just an educated opinion; not a legally verified answer. Taxes are to be paid on income, not on money that you handle for someone. So if the idea is only that he gets and holds the money for you until a later point in time, there should be no tax liability. If the amount is high enough to raise a flag in the bank so the IRS might look at it, and he wants to be sure to not get in trouble, he should keep it separate, and keep a record of 'handing it to you'. Note that if he makes interest on it, or uses it to pay his credit down until you come or such, the situation changes.
The regulatory environment here is the main driver. In Australia, where I spent 10 years developing software for lenders/banks you can operate the same way as described in the original question (overnight transfer to anyone) and cheques are not only never used, if you try, people will laugh at you. In Australia 4 banks control > 90% of the market, they realize that overnight transfers that involve them 0% is more efficient (read: costs less) for all of them.  This will change in the next 1 - 2 years in the US I believe however, as pressures from technologies like bitcoin and technology providers like dwolla and venmo start to get a foothold and broader visibility.
Yeah, infinite - or 8 years (whichever comes first).  So, not infinite at all.  By any stretch of the imagination.  What a dishonest policy.  Tesla should be ashamed.  The word 'infinite' is in there - ONLY - to mislead people.  That's shameful.  Of course, everyone here has a raging hard-on for Tesla - so I expect that ***I'll*** be the one to get your downvotes (not Tesla) for this disgusting act.
Meh, if someone picks it up and gives me a near identical replacement while they fix it, then deliver it back to me such that I'm out no money and no convenience, do I care?  You make a good point about raw numbers, but as an owner I can say the feeling is vastly different and nearly seamless.  And, we were only having the titanium shield added.
This doesn't seem smart, but people also seem unable, or unwilling, to do the smart thing vs the thing they want to do.  In other news, the average car price is over $34,000, which is 63% of median household income.  Compare that with 1985, when the average cost of a new car was 38% of median income.  So, yeah, it's not surprising that there's a desire to stretch that out a bit.  But cars last longer, too.  So there's that.
This definitely depends on your situation. If  your furnace is relatively young it's probably not going to require major service anytime soon so you may not need it. As @sdg said, if you can tolerate a couple of days with no heat, you may not need it. If you have access to trusted HVAC repairman, you may not need it. Mind if I ask how much they're charging? There's definitely a pain threshold that will vary based on your needs.  For example, I'd be willing to pay up to $10. But that's mostly because of the annual maintenance check. If I had an older system or depended on it more, my pain threshold would be higher. My local gas company offers this service for around $20/month. That's not worth it to me because I'm estimating (i.e. guessing) that any repairs I need to do in the next 5 years will cost less than 5*12*20 = $1200.
There is an opportunity cost of your future insurance needs, Here, the savings vs risks ratio is difficult to figure out. Hence it is always worth that extra cost to buy the larger and longer policy if you can afford it. Basically if you can afford it today, it will cost peanuts after 20 years.
The .9% looks great, but it's not as relevant as the cost of the car itself. There are those who believe that one should never own a new car, that the first X years/miles of a car's life are the most expensive.  The real question is how your budget is allocated. Is the car payment a small sliver or a large slice? How big is the housing wedge?
As you suspected, there is more than just car replacement taken care of by insurance (some of them are pointed out in Chad's story:
If you can afford to put $1,333 towards saving for a new car each month, then there is nothing wrong with your logic You should be aware that your car will probably cost around $110,000 in 6.5 years, but other than that the logic is fine. However...
This entirely depends on two factors: Now let's look at what AppleCare gives you: What it covers is any manufacturing defect. It also covers you for phone support, as otherwise it's a $49-per-incident charge even for simple issues. It also covers any software issues that you may come across as long as the issues pertain to Apple software or the operating system itself. What it doesn't cover is any damage caused by the user. If you snap the corner of the screen, drop it, spill liquid on it, modify it, etc... then you're responsible for paying the repair costs. If you're outside of phone support, then you're going to have to pay someone to fix any problems you come across. Now if we're to trust this handy study done in 2009, then we can say that the 3-year failure rate for Macbooks and Macbook Pros is 17.4%. We could go ahead and say that $350 / $2000 = 17.5% so the chances match up, but what's the likelihood that Apple is going to cover the full $2000? Only under extreme cases are you losing the full $2000 (theft, shock damage, etc...), and those are all cases that Apple won't cover anyways. Instead we're looking at cases such as (Please keep in mind it has been several years since I worked for Apple, so these figures may be off): So this reduces our possible savings significantly. Let's then also look at what the warranty becomes after they fixed a part: A replacement part or Apple Product, including a user-installable part that has been installed in accordance with instructions provided by Apple, assumes the remaining term of the Warranty or ninety (90) days from the date of replacement or repair, whichever provides longer coverage for you. Which means in this case that you have a 90-day warranty after they've fixed an issue. This significantly reduces the likelihood of a same part going bad multiple times in a row. Therefore the chances of that $350 being worthwhile are very much against you. Even if the system does fail in some way, it is likely that the repair would be cheaper than the AppleCare.
Pro-tip: managers hate to keep expensive cars on their books because expensive cars=more depreciation=bad margins. However, if you call the branch a day in advance/the morning of your reservation and mention that you are interested in coverages and upgrading to something sporty, you will instantly become a VIP for agents and managers that are desperate to boost sales numbers. They will do everything they can to track down whatever car you want. When you arrive, simply decline the coverages you don't want, and negotiate (seriously, negotiate) a fair price for your upgrade.
"I decline politely.   The cost of the insurance policy has two components: The actual cost of a likely repair + profit. If I set aside the cost of a likely repair myself, then I get to keep the profit.   If the item doesn't break, I get to keep the ""repair"" money too :)"
You're looking at a used car, which is good, but I think you can still be much wiser with the type of car you're looking to purchase. Maybe I'm such a fuddy-duddy because I didn't own a car until I was 25, but let's break this down with a small comparison: If you drive 1,000 miles per month with gas at $4/gallon -- which is absurdly conservative, I think -- for five years, then you're looking at an extra $60/month for just gas, and probably twice the payment, compared with a perfectly reliable but more fuel-efficient car from the same year.  (Disclosure:  I own a 2004 Corolla and love it.  I got mine in 2007 for under $10k, and I paid cash.) $300/month or so is a good chunk of change, no?  I'd do even more, and pay that loan off (which will almost certainly be less than $500/month) faster by throwing $500/month at it.  You'll save hundreds of dollars in interest. Edit based on your additions: There's one thing that you don't see yet that I have.  It's only because you're in your early 20s and I'm pushing 40. It is far easier to sock money away when you're single and don't have a family to take care of. (I'm assuming you're not married yet and that you don't have kids.  Hopefully it's not a poor assumption.) I would be saving like crazy now if I were in your position.  You have a great job for fresh out of college.  My first job started ten years ago after grad school at the same salary you're making.  Man, it was so easy to save money back then.  Now that I'm married with a daughter, a lot of that cushion goes away.  I wouldn't trade it for the world, but that's the price of being head of household. If you have any intentions of not being a hermit for the rest of your life (and I hope you do) then you'd be wise to save as much as you can now.
This is nonsense and just a game to squeeze more money from consumers.  A convential car needs to change oil every so often. You get a warning light in the dashboard for that in most cars.   If you decide to not change oil as needed, it's your business and your problem that you shortened your car's life.  Do you want conventional cars to stop working when oil change is due?   Basically Tesla is crippeling the car and does not let the consumer to FULLY use the car they own, if they choose to do that.
Good question! FWIW, I was given a price of about $600 for aftermarket cruise control on a Hyundai Elantra. One problem with trying to get some-but-not-all of the features is that you can't pick and choose -- you have to get the features as part of a package. Cruise was the only thing I really wanted (i.e. would have been willing to pay extra for) from the next-higher trimline, so I decided to drop it. The particular set of features you're looking for means you're going to have to buy some stuff you maybe don't want (alloy wheels or something like that).
Did you consider AppleCare? http://www.apple.com/support/products/iphone.html very iPhone comes with one year of hardware repair coverage through its limited warranty and up to 90 days of complimentary support. The AppleCare Protection Plan for iPhone extends your coverage to two years from the original purchase date of your iPhone. This was only a flat fee of $69 (or at least it was when we bought our iPhone 4 models) which seems much more reasonable, particularly if you're planning to keep your phone for a while. (and remember that iPhones magically turn into iPod Touches when you stop using them as phones, so their useful life is a bit longer than most typical smartphones)
&gt;  is willing to sacrifice profits to a degree  you don't know that  as PROFIT is such an ugly word on Reddit, the notion, however, does have appeal  being limited to drive train only is about 2 years more than (I think) Hyundai
If that was a traditional ICE car they would have been raked over the coals for that many failures in one year. I don't care how pleasant the experience is, I would lemon law the shit out of something that had to go back to the dealer so many times.
Seeing stuff like this makes me wish I took videos at the dealerships I worked as a mechanic for.  This justifies my experiences, dealerships and the manufacturers are thieves and crooks.  I was a mechanic, I have a moral compass, I am no longer a mechanic.
So this is the only reason, I would consider it.  I mean, it's gonna take years to get the car, but I wonder if it would be worth it to get in the queue now.  Do you find the autopilot handy in heavy traffic?  I mean like even jammed commute traffic.
So, you think forcing people to buy their auto insurance doesn't provide any money?  It sounds like the customer didn't even know they were paying for it. Or, are you saying that this minor scam is nothing in the grand scheme of things, and that we should expect their scams to pay out at least a few billion?
Yeah, but they have a price match policy; have them price match themselves or go home and order it online.  Or hell, use your smart phone on their free wifi to place the order so the sales person doesn't get credit for the sale and can't harass you for a warranty.
That sounds like way too much for a car! I suggest you get a used car that only has a few years on it and is in mint condition. Not only are they cheaper to purchase, they are also the cheapest to insure.
It depends on individual preference. There is no hard and fast rule.   In general the recommendation would be not to spend much unless you have a sufficient money for a rainy day. Even after spending 10 K on a good car, the minute you have more money, you would feed tempted to upgrade before you are 25 yrs. So save and buy a cheaper / decent car and put the money away.  But then someone would also say, if you can't enjoy when you are young, you may never get this opportunity to enjoy when you are old ...
If you built the sheet using my made-up numbers, then you get ""Old Car Equity"" as 4,276. ""New Car Equity"" is 6,046. If you're only looking at most equity, you might make a poor financial decision. The real value you should consider is the cost to own the car (not necessarily operate it) during that time... Total Cost = (Ending Equity) - (Payment x 24) - (Upfront Cash). For your 'old' car, that's (4,276) - (203.81 * 24) - (1,200) = -1,815.75 For the 'new' car, that's (6,046) - (339.68 * 24) - (2,000) = -4,106.07. Is one good or bad? Up to you to decide. There are excel formulas like ""CUMPRINC"" that can consolidate some of the table mechanics, but I assumed that if you're here asking you would have gotten stuck running some of those. Here's the spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ah0weE0QX65vdHpCNVpwUzlfYjlTY2VrNllXOS1CWUE#gid=1"
The issuer of the service contract is making money. DO NOT buy these contracts.  Self insure over your life time 40/60 years and you will save money.
It depends how detailed you want to get in your calculation, but fundamentally, 1K < 25K.   On a very basic level, divide the cost (less what you sell it for) by the time you'll have the car for.  If you junk it, $1K/12 month = $83/month to buy tires to have a car for a year. If you sell it for $1K, then it become $0/month.  (Plus other maintenance, etc..., obviously). If you pay 25K and keep the new car for ten years and sell it for nothing, it becomes roughly $208/month (plus maintenance). If you want to get more accurate, there are a lot of variables you can take into account--time cost of money, financing, maintenance costs of different vehicle types, etc...
yeah but the autonomous cars do things like take them wheels to the gas station and get that automated fill up and pay with a finance algorithm and they clearly take themselves to the car wash maybe these cars need to be different so that interior and exterior can survive a power wash ...
If you repair your phone, when your current balance is paid off, could you get the same coverage for less money? Or would your monthly payment remain the same regardless? That would be the easiest comparison to make.  ie: Pay an extra $49 to have the phone replaced [ie: the cost of using the insurance program for $149, vs the cost of buying out your plan for $100], get a slightly worse phone instead of upgrading, but save $15 / month for the next 2 years. This would pay off economically within 3-4 months, but the phone would be older (not sure if you care about that).
I think even if the actual figures were off by 50%, there are still worthy points to think about.   A) Car accidents cost a lot in money and lives, and often in ways we might not think about at first.  B) There are certain types of accidents that cost more.   C) Google needs to hurry up with their self driving cars.   In the meanwhile, it might be a good idea to try and address some of these issues while we await the arrival of our Google Overlords.
I think your math is fine, and also consider insurance costs and the convenience factor of each scenario. Moving a car frequently to avoid parking tickets will become tedious. I'd rather spend an hour renting a car 20 times in a year rather than have to spend 15 minutes moving a car every three days. And if there's no other easy parking, that 15 minutes can take a lot longer. Plus it'll get dirty sitting there, could get vandalized. Yuck. For only 20 days/year, I don't see how owning a car is worth the hassle. I recommend using a credit card that comes with free car rental insurance.
That is a desirable model so I doubt you could get it into the low 30's. Also you mentioned you want it optioned out. That would also reduce the leverage you have in the negotiation. Look at True Car to find out what you'd actually be paying. You will either get the car you want or the price you want.
It might actually be kinda a good thing. If these cars charge overnight, mostly off peak hours, the transmission infrastructure will be put to good use at night, which can really help pay for the infrastructure, and therefore help subsidize our current bills.   Imagine it like public transit. A public transit system that had a high volume, constant stream of riders all day could earn a lot more revenues without needing to add more trains/rails/stops.
Not like you are limited to one charge a day or anything.  About 240mi on an 80% charge, that is 4hrs at 60mph.  You can supercharge back to 80% in 20min, but ill give you an hour, so 5hrs to drain and charge, and lets say 3 cycles a day (15hrs).  So 720mi/d and 365d/y and 8yrs = 2million miles.  Why is charge relevant?
We rarely do them where they go beyond 100m one way.  When we do we get a single charge in the middle and go 300m.  If we were going any further then a few more stops don't bother me...especially with noisy kids.  There was one time we picked up a 1-day rental for $20 to go into the mountains where there were no chargers (and dirty bumpy etc).  Good thing, popped a tire on the rental :). For the extremely adventurous maybe you want something else.  For most others it works out really well.
They still have to power the heat/AC, radio, any proximity sensors/self driving sensors etc. Plus the way many people drive it will start every 10 seconds to go 8 ft then stop again. I'm sure a fleet of self driving cards would smoothen that out, but people suck at driving.
This has zero impact on spot prices or anywhere on a reasonably scaled forward curve.  Reddit can be such an echo chamber spouting bullshit sometimes.  Yes, it'll eventually reduce oil use, but it's at least 20 years down the line.  The whole issue with the oil market these days is US tight oil production being able to ramp up quickly and reduce costs.
I just wrote an article about this and how Im playing it (ALOT of long dated OotM (out of the money) PUT options).  Especially with the Fed forcing rate hikes (as if they think we dont understand theyre hiking only to cut rates in a few months when a recession shows) and the economys growth weakening.  I don't see a single catalyst for resuming the boom in auto sectors.  (my article) https://lonewolf.liberty.me/car-mageddon-is-upon-us-and-how-to-play-it/