vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
On your end of the deal, the biggest risk is probably counterfeiting. That said, I'd think that most of the downside would be for the buyer since they would have no way to prove that they paid you.  Perhaps a better alternative is to send the items COD (Collect On Delivery aka Cash on Delivery). The USPS and some other carriers offer this service, which can be an effective way to remotely negotiate a cash sale. I double checked the USPS site and they do accept cash for COD deliveries: Recipient may pay by cash or check (or money order) made out to   sender. (Sender may not specify payment method.) You might want to double check this if you go with USPS or FedX.
Mint.com does all of that (except for the cash at hand).
In order:  1.) Speak to car dealership, demand refund.  If that doesn't work,  2.) Contact the local authorities.  If that doesn't work,  3.) Get in touch with a lawyer.  If that doesn't work, (or if it's too expensive),  4.) Get in touch with local media, and have them run a story.
In the US, banks, businesses and the government stack cash.  That's how you should present it to them.
I'd not do business under these terms. A bill of sale needs a signature, right? Your signature is your word, and your word is your bond. I wouldn't participate in such a fraud, nor would I accept this sum of cash, who knows its origins?
Also, depending where you buy the car in the US, you have to pay property tax every year for just having purchased the car.
"Paperwork prevails.  What you have is a dealer who get a kickback for sending financing to that institution. And the dealer pretty much said ""We only get paid our kickback at two levels of loan life, 6 and 12 months."" You just didn't quite read between the lines.  This is very similar to the Variable Annuity salespeople who tell their clients, ""The best feature about this product is that the huge commissions I get from the sale fund my kid's college tuition and my own retirement. You, on the other hand, don't really do so well.""  Car salesmen and VA sellers."
I just listened to a podcast on this topic this week, and Satanicpuppy is pretty much correct. If you are interested, here is a link to the podcast on Legal Lad: Can Businesses Refuse to Accept Cash?
"Maybe you can just hang onto the cash and upgrade the things you buy for cash now a bit.  Buy the better cut of meat, the nicer pair of shoes, etc. Since you have no trouble with bending the truth a bit.. if challenged, the shoes were ""on sale"". And no you must have lost the receipt.  Not that I'm advocating it, but the only time I notice my better half's shoe habit is when a garbage bag of the old ones goes out the door."
The primary power the customer has in the dealership is the power to walk away from a deal. They've set the situation up as though you no longer have the power to walk away. They didn't threaten with re-possession because they can't - the sale is final. They presented as a one-path situation - you pay. Period. You do have many options, though, and they are very familiar with the ""walk away"" option. Present that as your chosen option - either they stick with the original deal, or you walk away - and they will have to look at getting another car off the lot (which is often more important than making a profit for a dealership) or selling a slightly used car. If they've correctly pushed the title transfer through (or you, if that's your task in your state) then your brief ownership will show up on carfax and similar reports, and instantly reduces the car's worth. Having the title transfer immediately back to the dealership doesn't look good to future buyers. So the dealership doesn't want the car back. They are just trying to extract more money, and probably illegally, depending on the laws in your jurisdiction. Reassert your position as customer, and decide now that you'll be fine if you have to return it and walk away. Then when you communicate that to them, chances are good they'll simply cave and let the sale stand as-is."
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I think I would simply find a friendly local who is willing to Paypal you for cash.
Also keep in mind that with an all-cash offer, they get their money now and not spread over X-many years, which means they can reinvest it now rather than piece meal across the term of whatever the loan would be. (Presuming the bank would be financing the house themselves.) Additionally, with an all-cash offer, there end to be fewer lawyers at the table, fewer parties total, so the process can generally proceed faster.
One other point to consider is that cash offers often include no contingencies. That is, the offer comes in and if the seller signs then the deal is done, without any chance that the buyer backs out. As you can imagine, this is an attractive option in some situations.
I don't carry cash at all unless I know I'm going somewhere which requires it - this includes going to the corner shop for some milk or going to other countries for a week. Cards are easier for me - if a merchant wants my business they will take my money through whatever means they can. I don't think etiquette comes into it.
here in Florida same thing.  over 50% of South Florida sales are for cash  personally, I'm happy as we'd be dead without this new money  and this has happened before, e.g. 80's boom was fueled by Columbian drug bucks
$27,000 for a car?!  Please, don't do that to yourself! That sounds like a new-car price.  If it is, you can kiss $4k-$5k of that price goodbye the moment you drive it off the lot.  You'll pay the worst part of the depreciation on that vehicle. You can get a 4-5 year old Corolla (or similar import) for less than half that price, and if you take care of it, you can get easily another 100k miles out of it. Check out Dave Ramsey's video.  (It's funny that the car payment he chooses as his example is the same one as yours: $475! ;) )  I don't buy his take on the 12% return on the stock market (which is fantasy in my book) but buying cars outright instead of borrowing or (gasp) leasing, and working your way up the food chain a bit with the bells/whistles/newness of your cars, is the way to go.
I generally agree with the sentiment in many other answers that $27K is more I would personally spend on a car if I were in your position. Having said that, the following assumes you are already intent on buying that car.  Even if you change your mind, I think the general ideas still apply.
This is more a question about economics than about personal finance. The answer, though, is straight-forward. Samsung makes enough profit on the phones that they are willing to eat the costs of a 0% loan, with the attendant risk of non-payment and the loss due to inflation. By offering financing, they expect to sell more phones. So, it's a slight cost to Samsung, but one they can easily afford due to the markups and increased volume of sales.
If you get an INR 1000 discount for paying up front versus paying over six months, you can consider that INR 1000 interest. Your annualized rate comes out to about 14.76%. If you can earn better than 14.76% on that money by using it elsewhere in the mean time, then you should pay over six months. If not, you should pay the whole price up front. You may also elect to pay the interest if you do not have the full amount now, but the use of the phone for the next six months will earn you more than the INR 1000 premium that you pay to defer the full purchase price.
Sounds like he's just had the theory playing in his head since someone told him they did that instead of just purchasing it and going in to payments.  Perhaps I need to sit down and calculate it for my clueless self.
"Be very careful with this.  When we tried this with furniture, they charged an ""administrative"" fee to setup the account.  I believe it was about $75.  So if you defer interest for one year on a $1000 purchase and pay a $75 administrative fee, it's 7.5% interest. Also, they don't always send you a bill when it's due, they just let you go over the date when you could have paid it without paying interest, and then you owe interest from the date of purchase.  These plans are slimy.  Be careful."
Pay $350 per month and you pay it off in 55 months with $5449 interest. (I just did quick calculations with a spreadsheet, not accurate to the penny, but close enough for comparison.) PS This is different from ""revolving credit"", like credit cards, where interest is calculated on the ""average daily balance"". With a credit card, making multiple payments would indeed reduce your interest. But not by much. If you pay $100 every 10 days instead of $300 at the end, then you're saving the interest on 20 days x $100 + 10 days x $100, so 12.5% = 0.03% per day, so 0.03% x ($2000+$1000) = 90 cents. If you're mailing your payments, the postage is 49 cents x 2 extra payments = 98 cents. You're losing 8 cents per month by doing this."
"Yes, a HELOC is great for that. I just had my roof done last month (~$15K, ""ugh"") and pretty much every major contractor in my area had a 0% same-as-cash for at least 12 months. So that helps - any balance that I don't bank by 11/15/2015 will be on the HELOC."
"Exactly. I'll ""retire"" from teaching in two years and will be given the chance to take half of my retirement in one lump sum payment and take home $1,000 a month, or take nothing and bring home 2,000 a month. The other thing to remember is the 30% tax payment that next April. That's tough.   This looks like a no-brainer because in just seven years, I'd eclipse the cash out. However, I might do it because I'll take the money and possibly pay off a rental home. With a rental, I'll be able to raise the rent if inflation kicks in. Of course, if deflation continues, that might be a bad move. The thing is, I'll be able to decide."
You shouldn't be charged interest, unless possibly because your purchases involve a currency conversion. I've made normal purchases that happened to involve changes in currency.  The prices were quoted in US$ to me.  On the tail end, though, the currency change was treated as a cash advance, which accrues interest immediately.
"The downside of the store card is that the ""deal"" for using the card is typically 6-12 months of ""no payments"" or ""no interest"". In reality, the ""deal"" is deferred payments/interest. The problem is, if you miss any payment, or fail to pay the computer off in full, you'll have to pay for the accrued interest -- at a rate typically 25% or higher. That means if you buy your computer for $1,000, and pay $999 at the end of 12 months, you may have to pay $250 in accrued interest. These cards can be great deals, just be really careful!"
For an individual its not automatic. One needs to ask the Bank, return the check.   For Corporate Customer depending on how big the relationship is, many a times this is given as a service and there is an automatic return
Have the check reissued to the proper payee.
Yes it should be a ACH or other electronic transfer. However, it not unusual to have checks sent for large amounts in corporate banking. Large companies don't give large checks to tellers, they have it sent to a lockbox. However, lockboxes are suited for payment of invoices and I never heard of a billion dollar invoice.  edit: Also, I believe that some of the bailouts were done in checks, but honestly I'm not 100% on that.
I suspect @SpehroPefhany is correct and that your bank will cash a check from the US Department of the Treasury.  Especially since they're the same ones who guarantee the U.S. Dollar.  They may hold the funds until the check clears, but I think you'll have good luck going through your bank.  Of course, fees and exchange rate are a factor.   Consider browsing the IRS and US Treasury Department websites for suggestions/FAQs.   I suggest you line up a way to cash it, and make sure there's enough left after fees and exchange rate and postage to get the check that the whole process is worth it, all before you ask it to be shipped to you.   If there's no way to do it through your bank, through a money exchange business (those at the airport come to mind) or through your government (postal bank?), and the check is enough that you're willing to go through some trouble, then you should look into assigning power of attorney for this purpose.  I don't know if it is possible, but it might be worth looking into. Look for US based banks in your area.
Given a routing number / account number, it's easy to print a check with those details.  All you need is a MICR font.  No EFT needed. I would recommend that instead, you get his account information, and set up a direct withdrawal.  Of course, then you could potentially use HIS account fraudulently, but that would be true even if he just wrote you a check.
How? Basically all banks nowadays allow online deposits from a smartphone - you take a picture from the front and back of the check, and submit it, and that's it. You still have the paper check, and it looks pristine, but it is deposited (and the paper is worthless).
This question was asked three years ago, but now that it's 2017 there is actually a relatively easy, cheap and fast solution to at least the first half of your question. To cash the check: I've done this a half dozen times while abroad (from the US) without any problems.
When the check is deposited, the bank verifies the signature in the check matches your signature in file.
"You can try writing on the back of the check, in the signature area, ""For deposit only to account xxxxxxxxx"", leaving room for the signature. This may or may not be legally binding, but it states your intnt and is in a form the bank will recognize."
While you can print that on the check, it isn't considered legally binding. If you are concerned about a check not being deposited in a timely manner, consider purchasing a cashier's check instead. This doesn't solve the problem per se, but it transfers responsibility of tracking that check from you to the bank.
"To answer length validity and security implications of draft checks issued and negotiated within the United States, I am heavily addressing the common erroneous assumptions of where the funds sit while they're ""in"" a draft check and how to get them out. Tl;Dr The existing answers are incomplete and in some ways dangerously misleading. Jerry can still be potentially defrauded by Tom, and even if the check is legitimately drawn and negotiable, Jerry may still experience delayed access to the funds. The funds sit in an account held by the issuing bank. As long as the bank has sufficient funds, the check does. However, there are significantly more factors that go into whether a check will be returned unpaid (""bounce""). If I hand you $5000 in cash, will you give me $5000 in cash? Probably, and you'd probably be pretty safe. How about I give you a $5000 draft check, will you give me $5000 in cash without doing anything except looking at it to verify the check? I hope not (Cash America sure wouldn't) but people sell expensive goods with the ""same as cash"" attitude. Remember: The only non-cash form of payment which cannot somehow be held, reversed or returned unpaid in the U.S. without consent of the receiving party is a payment order (a.k.a wire transfer)! The draft check is ""as good as cash"" in the sense that the money for a draft check is withdrawn from your account before the check is negotiated (deposited). This does NOT mean that a draft check will not bounce, so Jerry is NOT as secure in handing the goods to Tom as if Tom had handed him cash, as it is still a check. Jerry's bank will not receive the funds for Tom's draft check for an average 3 to 5 business days, same as a personal check. Jerry will probably have access to the first $5000 within two business days... provided that he deposits the draft check in person at his bank's branch or in a bank-owned ATM. In the United States, Regulation CC governs funds availability.
This varies by jurisdiction somewhat but speaking as a Canadian, a small business owner, and accountant (unregistered but some courses and accounting for multiple businesses) this is the answer if you were in Canada. In Canada the cheque cashing limit is 6 months. Therefor any bank will refuse to cash this cheque.  It would be totally morally and legally acceptable to ask for a replacement cheque from your employer. In Canada they would generally have no problem issuing a replacement; in other jurisdictions with differing time limits they might want to cancel the original cheque first.
The answer is - the money got bounced back to their account :(
"People who rent an apartment will typically pay by check. Probably 90% of the checks I have written are for rent. To some extent this falls under the previously mentioned ""payments to another person"" rule."
If you have the expired check in hand and take it back to the bank that issued it to you, I'd think they could do something for you.  (I'd hope they would, anyway.) But automatically?  I don't think so.
What would you do if you had the check?  Probably destroy it.  The goal is to render it uncashable.  One way to do such is to have it shredded.   If you are uncomfortable leaving them to destroy it, then swing by and pick it up.  Alternatively offer to send them a self addressed and stamped envelope.  I am sure they will accommodate if you ask nicely.
Citibank just sent me a $100 check. Here's how I got it:
It's probably worth taking the check to your or her bank and asking them about it. They may have more info. Also, banks usually want to know about scams like this because, in the long run, they accumulate data on them and share that with law enforcement and can eventually catch some of the scammers. Edit: Just to help anyone who may be reading this later. The letter you added confirms it is absolutely a scam. My boss was once contacted via a scam operation very similar to this. The huge red flag (in addition to others already mentioned) is that you are being ""given"" a check for over $2000, of which only $25 is purportedly for actual mystery shopping and $285 is payment for you, the mystery shopper. The whole rest of the $2000+ amount is for you to wire to ""another Mystery/Secret Shopper in order for them to complete their assignment"". They are giving you $2000 to give to someone else who is supposedly another one of their own employees/contractors. Ask yourself what sane business would conduct their operations in this way. If you work at a law office, or a hamburger stand, or a school, or anything you like, does your boss ever say ""Here is your paycheck for $5000. I know you only earned $1000, but I'm just going to give you the whole $5000, and you're supposed to use $4000 of it to pay your coworker Joe his wages."" No. There is no reason to do that except that the ""other mystery shopper"" is actually the scammer."
just FYI i have a simple account where you can generate a check to a person and they will send it via regular mail. this is not getting away from check but it makes process simpler of not writing a check and sticking a stamp and then putting it in a mailbox
Normally if the amount of a cashiers check is over $5,000, a bank (like Wells Fargo) may put a 10 business day hold on it to make sure the transaction is sound.
"When banks would return the actual physical cheque, at least you had some printing / writing from the other bank on it, as some type of not-easily-Photoshopped proof. Now many (most?) banks don't return the actual cheques anyway, just an image of it - sometimes a low quality shrunken B&W photocopy-like image too.  You'd have to check with a lawyer or court in your area, but I suspect any photocopy or image, as well as a written or carbon-copy duplicate, would not be good enough proof for a law court, since they could all be easily re-written or Photoshopped. So I don't think there's a real upside anyway. Only an official bank statement saying that the name/people written actually cashed the cheque might be ""good evidence"" (I'm having doubts that the bank's own low quality ""image"" would even qualify, unless it's verified as coming directly from the bank somehow). I'd agree with Nate (+1) that a big downside could be identity theft, either online or alongside phone loss/theft."
Any person at any time may produce their own currency, one can even do so on the back of a paper napkin, ripped beer coaster or whatever.  This is NOT a banking privilege, it is within the lawful ability of anyone capable of engaging in commerce. It is called a 'negotiable instrument' ... it gives the holder rights to a sum of money.  Notice that I say 'holder' ... this is what distinguishes it from a non-negotiable instrument, the fact that you don't need to redeem it from source, you can pass it to another who then becomes the 'holder in due course' and thus obtains the rights conferred. The conferable rights over a sum of money (or, indeed, other asset) are themselves 'value' Do banks do this ?  Yes, all the time! ... one of the simplest examples are cheques drawn against the bank, which are considered 'as good as cash'.  Usually they will be drawn out to the order of the person you wish to pay ... but can equally be drawn out to bearer.  The only reasons they resist making out to bearer is : But you can write your own at 'any time' on 'any thing' ... See the apocryphal, yet deliciously entertaining, tale of the 'negotiable cow'
"The answer is ""it depends"".  What does it depend on? If it's a breakup situation, good luck. Whatever you do, get this issue settled as quickly as possible. In the future, don't make significant purchases with people unless you have a written contract or you are married."
"If you wish to lend them the money, make the check payable to the order of  ""loan"", not directly to your son or daughter."
The trick is that any payment you send over the minimum required will be applied to the check balance first, not your main purchases. I guess if you don't use that card for anything else at all it might work out.
~~Most checks don't.~~  Edit: I've definitely seen checks cashed way beyond 90-120 days. I don't have extensive knowledge of the rules though. Regardless, it's not like Floyd magically loses is pay if he doesn't cash the check in time.
Many of these products are similar in nature and often depend on the issuing bank.   Cashier's Check Are checks signed and guaranteed by the bank.  This means the funds are coming from the bank instead of your account -- which usually means they immediately take the money from your account.  This is usually the most secure of the options and usually doesn't have many restrictions.  Certified Check Are checks signed by the customer, certified by the bank that you have enough funds and that your signature is genuine.  Usually, but not always - the bank will set aside the funds.   Bank Draft Similar to a certified check but the bank will set aside the funds until the bank draft is used.  Generally used in transactions involving larger sums. Money order It's a payment order similar to a certified check; however, it needs to be prepaid.  Also money orders may have maximum face values allowed.