vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"If you're single, the only solution I'm aware of, assuming you are truly getting a 1099-misc and not a W-2 (and don't have a W-2 option available, like TAing), is to save in a nondeductible account for now. Then, when you later do have a job, use that nondeductible account (in part) to fund your retirement accounts.  Particularly the first few years (if you're a ""young"" grad student in particular), you'll probably be low enough on the income side that you can fit this in - in particular if you've got a 401k or 403b plan at work; make your from-salary contributions there, and make deductible IRA or Roth IRA contributions from your in-school savings. If you're not single, or even if you are single but have a child, you have a few other options. Spouses who don't have earned income, but have a spouse who does, can set up a Spousal IRA.  You can then, combined, save up to your spouse's total earned income (or the usual per-person maximums).  So if you are married and your wife/husband works, you can essentially count his/her earned income towards your earned income. Second, if you have a child, consider setting up a 529 plan for them.  You're probably going to want to do this anyway, right?  You can even do this for a niece or nephew, if you're feeling generous."
If you're in the 25% tax bracket, then you probably shouldn't be doing a Roth conversion right now.  You'd prefer to do Roth conversions when you can do so at a 15% rate.  You could contribute some of your current annual contributions to Roth directly, but even that isn't a great idea except to diversify your holdings. Odds are you won't be paying 25% average tax rate on your retirement, unless you're doing very well in your retirement account.  Odds are you'll be somewhere around 15%.  Converting at a 15% rate therefore is fine; basically, you'll have something like this, based on some assumptions (I'm making up dollars, brackets, etc.; obviously these will change): Doing this, you pay 0-15% tax on up to 75k, then pay 0 tax after that on the Roth (which you paid 15% tax on already).  Therefore, you don't end up paying more than 15% on any single dollar, and you pay less on the total sum.  But you also don't really want to be paying 25% on any of it, since that won't really help you out any and could hurt you (will hurt you, if you end up getting some of that 15% bracket income from the Roth). If you're in the 25% bracket now, then you probably are better off just keeping everything in regular IRA (unless you're expecting to be in the 28% bracket after retirement?).  Putting some in Roth isn't a terrible idea, just for diversification's sake, but it's probably going to cost you money unless tax rates rise dramatically (which they certainly could, though not as likely to rise on the 'middle class' 0-100k range).  They'd have to double for you to be worse off this way. And finally: do not ever withdraw from the 401k to pay taxes on a conversion. You're subject to a 10% penalty for doing that (as it's an early withdrawal) and also have to pay taxes on that withdrawal.  Ick.   For more information about when Roth makes sense, read site moderator JoeTaxpayer's Blog article on the subject, which explains this in great detail.
"It's also not really anything new.   For a several decades, a huge percentage of the population has been essentially living paycheck-to-paycheck, and with essentially zero cash savings to cover emergencies.  It's possible that it is slightly worse now in the sense that -- with the pervasive use of credit &amp; debit cards, etc -- few people deal in cash or change very often ... and so they don't even have the old proverbial ""piggy banks"" (or jars/bottles filled with end-of-day pocket-change) that they can raid for $50 or $100.  *Oh, and THAT really has nothing to do with ""bubbles"".*  ---  EDIT: Plus another thought... just the other day there was an article crowing about how Millennials are ""saving for retirement"" in higher amounts and at earlier ages than prior generations -- if that is true, then a likely corollary would be that they are NOT engaged in plain old ""savings"" at the same rate -- i.e. what money they are ""stashing away"" is all heading to Wall Street, and is difficult to access in an emergency (and if they did access 401k savings, it would likely be as a ""loan"" -- rather than paying the early-withdrawal penalties &amp; taxes)."
Do not take the cash! You might be able to leave the money with the large company.  Ask the HR people at the company.  If you are satisfied with their work, no sense leaving if you don't have to.  I have coworkers that have 401K all over from all the buyouts the company went through. If you don't want to leave it behind, do a rollover into your own account with a low cost carrier.  (Vanguard, Fidelity and Charles Schwab are popular)  Whoever you choose for your own account can help you rollover the funds without penalty.  (Schwab helped me over the phone, it was pretty simple) More about rolling over a Roth 401K
"Wow.  Just ... wow. We all must start where we are, I guess.  The past is the past. There almost certainly isn't a cheap way to fix this.  You're already on the hook for $4k per month.  Your money is enabling her behavior.  You'd rather not enable her behavior, but the money is part of the consequences of your divorce, so into her bank account it goes. Those who control how much alimony your ex-wife receives might reach the conclusion she needs more.  That's not a hard conclusion for them to make.  It's not their money. The living conditions are hurting your kids, and that's unfortunate, but that's also part of the consequences of your divorce. If it's deemed that your kids are better off not visiting her, then you might be relieved of paying child support (since you're supporting them at that point) but you might still be supporting her until some trigger is met, which might be never.  (You know those details better than I do, of course.) If she's already lost her house, filed for bankruptcy, borrowed money from people that she hasn't paid back, and gets a check from you each month and still has utilities shut off, she'll continue to deteriorate financially until she hits rock bottom.  Then, and only then, will she see the need to fix her behavior. Now, the (possibly) million dollar question for you is, ""Where is rock bottom?"" Do what you can to make that happen sooner rather than later, because you'll likely be subsidizing her all the way down, and part of the way back up.  You've lost most of the leverage you once had to change her behavior, but try every way you can.  You might hit the jackpot."
Clark Howard talked about a Consumer Reports' test on the subject.    Here is his summary: Consumer Reports has taken a close   look at the store brand vs. name brand   question in the magazine's October   2010 issue. The verdict? Store brands   offered taste that was better than or   equal to name brands in many food and   non-food categories.  In general, store brands tend to save   you about 30 percent on average over   their national brand counterparts.  In comparing Heinz tomato ketchup to   Target's Market Pantry private label,   Consumer Reports preferred the latter.   In another example, Wal-Mart's Great   Value potato chips got the edge over   Lay's, according to the publication.  However, Consumer Reports suggests   that you skip the store brand and go   for the national brand when it comes   to mayonnaise, french fries, butter,   tuna and peas.  Clark's rule when it comes to store   brands is to give them a try just   once. If you like it, you save up to   30 percent each time you go shopping   going forward. If you don't like it,   you only lose money once. Many stores   even offer a money-back guarantee for   their products.  So remember, the potential savings can   be so great that there's always a   compelling reason to sample the store   brand. And here is the full article from Consumer Reports.
"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](http://www.housingfinance.com/news/us-losing-low-rent-units_o) reduced by 88%. (I'm a bot) ***** &gt; The lower end of the rental housing market continues to lose ground, according to the new The State of the Nation&amp;#039;s Housing report by the Joint Center for Housing Studies of Harvard University.  &gt; In examining the threats to the affordable housing supply, the report finds that housing created under the low-income housing tax credit is a concern.  &gt; Looking ahead, being intentional and being committed about developing affordable housing will be critical to addressing the rental housing crisis, said Terri Ludwig, president and CEO of Enterprise Community Partners, during a webcast held to discuss the report&amp;#039;s findings.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6hw6os/us_losing_lowrent_units_despite_a_slight/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~146856 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **housing**^#1 **rent**^#2 **units**^#3 **more**^#4 **households**^#5"
"I agree it seems insulting to pay the credit reporting agencies, but I have no choice at this point. I'd rather pay the small fee per each of them, to freeze accounts, then have thousands stolen. My husband has excellent credit and also we have a rather substantial savings account, that his info could give ""would be"" identity thieves access too.  This whole situation is messed up, and unacceptable! For one, no one EVER gave these credit reporting agencies access to their info, it's just a ""give in"" being born here. And for two, no one asked for their information to be kept in insecure databases. Higher standards need to be implemented.  My poor 72 year old father is outraged when I tell him his info is online. He says, ""I don't use the Internet!!! How can it be there?!?!"" (Poor old soul lol)  I just said, ""well dad, it is, whether you use it, or like it or not. It's there""  I just need to make sure we are taking the correct steps to protect ourselves. Honestly, I am not finance savvy. This is why I'm asking here in this sub. Thank you for responding, and thanks to anyone else who may offer any advice.  I'm not terrified, but I'm definitely miffed..."
If the bad credit items are accurate, disputing the accuracy of the items seems at best, unethical.   If the bad credit items are inaccurate, the resolution process provided by each of the 3 credit bureaus, while time consuming, seems the way to go.
Well I'm glad Congress is focusing on the important part of this. Not consumer access to credit reports or fraud protection or liability limitation for consumers, but let's protect the idiots who were sitting in the corner lighting their own farts while the bank was being robbed.
I just finished my bachelor and I'm doing my masters in Computer Science at a french school in Quebec. I consider myself being in the top 5% and I have an excellent curriculum, having studied abroad, learned 4 languages, participated in student committees, etc.  I'm leaning towards IT or business strategy/development...but I'm not sure yet. I guess I'm not that prepared, that's why I wanted a little help.
"Home Improvements that improve the home's Energy Efficiency are currently eligible for federal tax credits. This includes renewable energy equipment (solar panels, etc.) and Nonbusiness Energy Property Tax Credit. The credit is 30% of the cost. From Intuit Turbo Tax: Energy Tax Credit: Equipment and materials can qualify for the Nonbusiness Energy   Property Credit only if they meet technical efficiency standards set   by the Department of Energy. The manufacturer can tell you whether a   particular item meets those standards. For this credit, the IRS   distinguishes between two kinds of upgrades. The first is ""qualified energy efficiency improvements,"" and it   includes the following:   •Home insulation   •Exterior doors   •Exterior windows and skylights   •Certain roofing materials The second category is ""residential energy property costs."" It   includes:   •Electric heat pumps   •Electric heat pump water heaters   •Central air conditioning systems   •Natural gas, propane or oil waterheaters   •Stoves that use biomass fuel   •Natural gas, propane or oil furnaces   •Natural gas, propane or oil hot water boilers   •Advanced circulating fans for natural gas, propane or oil furnaces"
If you want to have an exciting ski holiday, then you should seek the help of France Skiing. They have ski chalets in France that are situated close to ski resorts so you can spend more time doing various activities. Their chalets also have well-stocked bars and entertainment lounges so you can bond with your newfound friends. Log on to france-skiing.net for more details.
"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](http://www.france24.com/en/20170710-haitian-factory-workers-demand-higher-wages) reduced by 72%. (I'm a bot) ***** &gt; Hundreds of Haiti&amp;#039;s factory workers protested in Port-au-Prince on Monday against a small increase in the minimum wage set by the government.  &gt; The workers, paid 300 gourdes a day, are demanding 800 gourdes for an eight-hour day of labor making products in factories outsourced to foreign companies.  &gt; &amp;quot;They want to satisfy the interests of the bourgeoisie, but the voice of the people is the voice of God and there are more of us than there are of them,&amp;quot; he said, insisting the protesters would not give up on their demand for 800 gourdes a day.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6mj7tv/hundreds_of_haitis_factory_workers_protested_in/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~164172 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **gourdes**^#1 **workers**^#2 **protested**^#3 **government**^#4 **factory**^#5"
To answer the specific question of whether you can get the bill reduced without hurting your credit, yes, as long as the bill never goes to collections, there's no reason it should ever show up on your credit report. Will they reduce your bill without sending it to collections first? Maybe. All you can do is ask.
If you try to ignore this or only partly answer their contact by telling them not to contact your employer etc, they will assume that you are the debtor and step up pursuit by contacting at work by phone, in person, or by other means, and you employer will see you in a bad light… I would advise you to write to them a one-time only letter confirming details of your home address and insist on correspondence in writing only to that home address, in addition you should confirm your full name including full middle names, date of birth, that you have never attended the college in question, agreed to any such debt in writing, and that you are not the correct data subject as the ss number also differs. The letter should also go on to state a range of costs which require payment before you act further, ie subsequent letter $xx.xx amount attending court $xx.xx per hour(not cheap) and that if they harass you or otherwise affect your standing with your credit reference, or employer or anyone else that you ‘Will’ take further action and ‘May’ take them to your ‘Local’ court and pursue the costs list above and losses as a result of their actions including pain and suffering. Speak tough and mean business and act decisively and your message will win through, share your details with them once and above all copy your employer in so that they know this is a case of mistaken identity. You can add a large heading at the top of the letter of ‘Mistaken Identity’ to prove your point.
Is that even legal to pull out of a deal like that? I'd assume they'd have made an agreement (between the underwriter and the buyer) during the roadshow.   This event I would think has large negative impacts on the firm. It delays their IPO, (provided that they try again) and it makes investors wary of reinvesting in their second IPO (oxymoron.. haha).  Furthermore, if the biotech firm decides to openly publish the details of this deal (which i assume they'd have to if they want to have a chance at having a successful IPO) someone is going to be labeled as having dealt in bad faith.  I understand that underwriters mostly operate on a best-efforts basis, but I don't think they can come out of this deal without facing some consequences.
"The Cash Credit from Unsettled Activity occurs because AGG issued a dividend in the past week. Since you purchased the ETF long enough before the record date (June 5, 2013) for that trade to settle, you qualified for a dividend. The dividend distribution was $0.195217/share for each of your six shares, for a total credit of $1.17 = 6 * 0.195217. For any ETF, the company's website should tell you when dividends are issued, usually under a section titled ""Distributions"" or something similar. If you look in your Fidelity account's History page, it should show an entry of ""Dividend Received"", which confirms that the cash credit is coming from a dividend distribution. You could look up your holdings and see which one(s) recently issued a dividend; in this case, it was AGG."
You could get a prepaid Visa card. You don't need a bank account and at least here in Australia you just buy them over the counter at the post office. I believe the U.K. has a similar card: Travel Money Card Plus from the Post Office.  The card requires a UK passport or driving license. Other European countries may have similar prepaid cards but may also require resident status and electronic identity / credit inquiry.
"It's required by law.  12 USC 1759 (b) requires that membership in a credit union be limited to one or more groups with a ""common bond"", or to people within a particular geographic area. For lots more gory details on how this is interpreted and enforced, you can read the manual given to credit unions by the National Credit Union Administration, which is their regulatory agency."
If you have non Residency status in Canada you don't need to file Canadian tax return. To confirm your status you need to contact Canada Revenue (send them letter, probably to complete some form).
Yes.  For $15 it's not worth anyone's time to dig deep just for this specific occurrence. What you should do, however, is keep an eye on your credit card bills and accounts and watch for any other suspicious activity.  It is possible that your number was stolen somehow and someone is using it fraudulently, so you want to be on the lookout in case they try to use it again.  However, your credit card company is going to be much, much better than you at detecting patterns of fraud, which is why you should leave it to them unless and until you actually see more suspicious activity.
USAA does - that's my bank. Wells Fargo tries to determine whether the online activity is a risk; if it is, they'll require an SMS code or phoned code be entered. You can get a fairly definitive list of online companies at twofactorauth.org.
Predicting the future is a fool's errand. (If you are interested in reading more on this view point, I suggest The Black Swan.) You mention the correct approach in this question. Ensure that you have liquid assets (cash or cash equivalents, i.e. money that you can draw on immediately and isn't credit) which covers at least 3-6 months of your necessary expenses (rent/mortgage, bills, car payments, food). (There is no reason that you couldn't try to increase this to 1 year, especially ""in this economy."") You should also strive to have money available for emergencies that don't necessarily include loss of income. Of course, make sure you're putting away for retirement, as appropriate for your retirement goals. After that should come discretionary items, including investing, entertainment, the large purchase you mentioned, etc. You should never use money that you may need immediately (5-10 years) for investing. This doesn't necessarily include the large purchase you are contemplating. For example, if you are considering purchasing a home, the down-payment may be one of the items for which you need money in the ""immediate"" future. Is it really only because of unemployment numbers? This is probably the big one that is the focus of everyone's attention. That said, the human attention span is limited. We have a natural need to simplify things. This is one of the reasons that we tend to focus on a few, hopefully important, things. However, the unemployment numbers are not that the only thing of concern. Credit is still pretty hard to come by these days. The overall economy is still hurting, even if we are technically no longer in a recession. There are also concerns about U.S. government borrowing, consumer spending, recent trucking numbers, etc. (It may not be obvious, but trucking is used as a barometer of economic activity. If there aren't as many trucks carting goods across the country, it probably means that there is less economic activity.) The headline number these days is unemployment, as most census workers have now been returned to the pool. To answer the overall question, we should always be saving money, in good times or in bad.
As an Indian resident you can open an Resident Foreign Currency Account, i.e. an USD account. This facility is provided by all major banks.  I am not sure if PayPal would transfer money to these accounts or would convert. The alternative is to give this account number along with other Bank details to the company in US and ask them to send money via remittance services.
I don't believe they're right. For international wire transfers you'd need either IBAN or SWIFT codes. I don't think any US bank participates in the IBAN network (mostly Europe and the Far East), so SWIFT is they way to go with the US. Credit unions frequently don't know what and how to do with international transactions because they don't have them that often. Some don't even have SWIFT codes of their own (many, in fact) and use intermediaries to receive money.
Under Income Tax Act, tax liability depends on residency as defined under section 6 of the Income Tax Act, and not on citizenship. If you are resident in India, then your global income is taxable. As it appears from your question, you are not resident of India (182 days stay in India in a FY), as such you will have absolutely no tax liability for whatever income you earn outside India.
Well I think I can do it in less time. If I graduate with 3 passed, I can probably be done by 28 and I'm 21 now. A heart surgeon would still be in residency at this time.   I'm already so stressed and pressured by these exams, I'm actually going to get my blood pressure checked at Walmart today. I'm not sure I can do it.   I want to run for mayor one day or something. To do that I need to start doing things- big things. I can't get into the prestigious schools so I feel this is the next best thing, even if I don't find it interesting and find the work boring.  ....
You can only claim an input tax credit if tax was actually collected by the seller, irrespective of whether it should have been or not. You need to contact the seller to request an invoice that shows the GST/HST, if any, as well as the seller's GST/HST number, which is required to be printed on invoices. If the seller is not including GST/HST in the prices indicated on Kickstarter, I would like to know how they get away with that!