vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
tl;dr- libor plus a small (&lt;50bps) spread for S&amp;P500 exposure. larger spread for less liquid/ more esoteric index.   a swap is basically just outsourcing balance sheet to a dealer bank. the counterparty (dealer) is shorting you (the fund) the return of the index. to hedge their short, the dealer would borrow funds and buy the stocks in the index. large dealer banks can borrow at basically libor. they'll also expect compensation for the transaction costs of buying the hedge plus a profit on the (small amount) of capital they need to finance this transaction. this will vary based on the size of the portfolio.   s&amp;p500 costs maybe 5bps in transaction cost. an EM index costs maybe 50bps. so it will depend on the index.  profit to the dealer depends on supply/demand dynamics. sometimes this transaction will be in demand, sometimes the short side will be more valuable.   so it depends on the index you're talking about as well as market dynamics. right now for s&amp;p500 exposure, not more than libor plus 50 for a mid-sized fund.
There are various indexes on the stock market that track the currencies.  Though it is different than Forex (probably less leverage), you may be able to get the effects you're looking for.  I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area, but looked some into FXE, to trade the Euro debt crisis.  Here's an article on Forex, putting FXE down (obviously a biased view, but perhaps will give you a starting point for comparison, should you want to trade something specific, like the current euro/dollar situation).
"The ""random walk"" that you describe reflects the nature of the information flow about the value of a stock.  If the flow is just little bits of relatively unimportant information (including information about the broader market and the investor pool), you will get small and seemingly random moves, which may look like a meander.  If an important bit of information comes out, like a merger, you will see a large and immediate move, which may not look as random. However, the idea that small moves are a meander of search and discovery and large moves are immediate agreements is incorrect.  Both small moves and large moves are instantaneous agreements about the value of a stock in the form of a demand/supply equilibrium.  As a rule, neither is predictable from the point of view of a single investor, but they are not actually random.  They look different from each other only because of the size of the movement, not because of an underlying difference in how the consensus price is reached."
"You are likely making an assumption that the ""Short call"" part of the article you refer to isn't making: that you own the underlying stock in the first place. Rather, selling short a call has two primary cases with considerably different risk profiles. When you short-sell (or ""write"") a call option on a stock, your position can either be: covered, which means you already own the underlying stock and will simply need to deliver it if you are assigned, or else uncovered (or naked), which means you do not own the underlying stock. Writing a covered call can be a relatively conservative trade, while writing a naked call (if your broker were to permit such) can be extremely risky. Consider: With an uncovered position, should you be assigned you will be required to buy the underlying at the prevailing price. This is a very real cost — certainly not an opportunity cost. Look a little further in the article you linked, to the Option strategies section, and you will see the covered call mentioned there. That's the kind of trade you describe in your example."
Leverage is when you borrow in order to invest. Mind you, most people aren't going to just give you money to gamble on the stock market completely unsecured; rather, you deposit (say) $10,000 and buy a stock... and then you have $10k in assets which you can borrow against, so you can buy another $10,000 of that stock. Now if the stock goes up you'll make twice the gain (2x leverage). However, if it goes down, you'll lose twice as much as well. If the value of your stock falls, your line of credit will be reduced as well; in this case, since you used all your credit and are now over your limit, your broker will issue a margin call (they will demand a deposit of additional funds, or they will sell some of your stock at their discretion). This protects you from owing more than you invested, but it's still sometimes possible (for instance, if a company spontaneously goes bankrupt and becomes worthless, and your stock becomes worthless). There are also things like leveraged index funds and commodity funds which aim to return some multiple of the market's earnings. These are designed for intraday trading, though, and usually end up underperforming significantly over the long term. [edit] Mose people who accept borrowed funds should generally accept real cash as well. However, if you're trying to short sell, i.e. borrow shares and sell them (in the hopes you can get them back cheaper later after the stock falls) you will need a margin line of credit to do so as well. [edit 2] clarified margin calls
I'm not familiar with Canadian taxes, but had your question been written about the United States, I'd advise you to at least consult for a couple of hours with an accountant. Taxes are complex, and the cost of making a mistake generally exceeds the cost of getting professional advice.
This lets you treat the whole family as one single entity, sharing in the income, expenses, etc. It lets you see the whole pool of money as being the family's, but also lets you track internally some value of assets for each person. Whenever you spend money you need to record which subaccount it came from, and it could be more challenging if you actually need to record income or expenses separately per person (for some sort of tax reasons, say) unless you also break up each Income and Expense account per person as well. (In which case, it may be easier just to have each person keep their entirely separate set of books.) I don't see a whole lot of advantages, but I'll mention it because you suggested using equity accounts. Equity is designed for tracking how much ""capital"" each ""investor"" contributes to the entity, and for tracking a household it can be hard for that to make a lot of sense, though I suppose it can be done. From a math perspective, Equity is treated exactly like Liabilities in the accounting equation, so you could end up using it a lot like in my Approach #1, where Equity represents how much you owe each of the kids. But in that case, I'd find it simpler to just go ahead and treat them as Liabilities. But if it makes you feel better to just use the word Equity rather than Liability, to represent that the kids are ""investing"" in the household or the like, go right ahead. If you're going to look at the books from your perspective and the kids as investing in it, the transaction would look like this: And it's really all handled in the same way an Approach #1. If on the other hand, you really want the books to represent ""the family"", then you'd need to have the family's books really look more like a partnership. This is getting a bit out of my league, but I'd imagine it'd be something like this: That is to say, the family make the sale, and has the money, and the ""shareholders"" could see it as such, but don't have any obvious direct claim to the money since there hasn't been a distribution to them yet.
Take it or leave it, but the correct way to charge taxes, especially given the complex tax laws of the US and internationally, is to charge per item. If you just need the ""good enough"" approach, feel free to calculate it by total. Some additional reading: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taxation_of_Digital_Goods Another possible federal limitation on Internet taxation is the United States Supreme Court case, Quill Corp. v. North Dakota, 504 U.S. 298 (1992),[6] which held that under the dormant commerce clause, goods purchased through mail order cannot be subject to a state’s sales tax unless the vendor has a substantial nexus with the state levying the tax. In 1997, the federal government decided to limit taxation of Internet activity for a period of time. The Internet Tax Freedom Act (ITFA) prohibits taxes on Internet access, which is defined as a service that allows users access to content, information, email or other services offered over the Internet and may include access to proprietary content, information, and other services as part of a package offered to customers. The Act has exceptions for taxes levied before the statute was written and for sales taxes on online purchases of physical goods."
Right. It couldn't have anything to do with the fact that the tax code is thousands of pages long and so complex that even most tax attorneys probably don't understand it in its entirety, let alone the average tax payer. There couldn't be *any* flaw in the system *except* that Bill Gates and Warren Buffett don't just fund the government all by themselves.
"&gt; Uber wasn't trying to track everybody post ride for fun, they were trying to model future demand for cars before somebody punched in they needed a ride. Well, I'm sure that was *one* of the reasons - even the primary reason, perhaps. But it's a bad idea to assume that companies are only using certain data in the ways you think they are. Like, when you pay with your credit card at a restaurant... You may expect them to keep a file linked to the card number so that they can track what people order over time. You *probably* don't expect them to explicitly match your credit card to your FB/LI/etc, create a file of information about you with pictures, and then use that info to instruct your server next time to talk about travel because you have a trip coming up. You *probably* don't expect them to share your file with other restaurants, so when you go to a different restaurant next week, the server there knows to upsell you on the wine. You *probably* don't expect them to sell that profile to data brokers who match all that to public record data (like mortgages and car registrations) in order to sell to yet other companies. But they do those things. Same deal with literally every company who obtains data. The correct calculation when deciding to give data to a company isn't ""what is the data and what do I think the company will do with it."" **The correct calculation is:** - what is the data - how can that data be combined with data about me from *everywhere* else: social networks, public records, credit card transactions, location data, etc - who could potentially get their hands on it (generally the company's tech/marketing partners and vendors + data brokers -- assume everyone) - what's the worst possible way that I imagine this could be used (e.g., to show me ads for italian restaurants, to show me higher prices because it looks like I'm a big spender, to prove that I'm cheating on my wife, etc) Then if you're still cool with giving them the data, awesome! Just remember that we have crappy memories, but computers don't.
"How do people do it? Firstly, I'd advise you to explicitly budget all taxes. The reason is because taxes get complicated when you have a child deduction. Not that raising a child is profitable post taxes, but it can change your perspective. SIWKs with high income get by just fine. The rest sacrifice. They buy less house, or rent. They drive more than 30 minutes to work every day. They work second jobs. They stop saving for retirement. And when they fail to save or plan, they borrow from family or rack up huge credit card debt. They don't buy the sweet new truck they were planning on. They cut cable and cook meals at home. They skip church, because they can't afford the tithe, and say it's because they don't have time, don't want their children to disrupt services, etc.  So right now, that ""other"" basket is looking pretty juicy, and the taxes can maybe be examined as well. But ultimately, if you're looking at a 30 percent hit in pay, that won't cut it. Mortgage + food alone is nearly half your budget!"
"The annualized method allows you to take a look at each quarter independently and pay the tax in the quarter that you earned it. -- According to Linda Durand, a certified public accountant with Drolet & Associates PLLC in Washington, D.C., from the Bankrate article ""Paying quarterly estimated taxes""  And after paying annualized quarterly estimates, you can still owe up to $1000 at tax time without penalty."
Your answer will need loads of information and clarification, so I will ask you to visit the VAT and have a peruse. 1) Obligation is for you to find out the correct rate of VAT, charge and pay tax accordingly. You can call up the HMRC VAT helpline for help, which they will be happy to oblige. Normally everybody pays VAT every 3 months or you can pay once in a year. 2) Depends on your annual turnover, including VAT. Less than £150000 you join the Flat rate scheme. There are schemes for cultural activities. Might be good to check here on GOV.UK. 3) If you pay VAT in EU countries, you can reclaim VAT in UK. You need to reclaim VAT while filing in your VAT returns. But be careful about your receipts, which can be checked to verify you are not defrauding HMRC.  The basic rule is that B2B services are, as the name suggests, supplies from one business to another. And, subject to some exceptions, are treated as made where the customer belongs. No VAT is chargeable on B2B supplies to an overseas customer. But where you make a B2C supply, VAT depends on where your customer is located: 1) if they are outside the EU, you don’t need to charge VAT 2) if they are located in an EU country, then you must charge VAT. Source All in all keep all records of VAT charged and paid to satisfy the taxman. If the rules get complicated, get an accountant to help you out. Don' take chances of interpreting the law yourself, the fines you might pay for wrong interpretation might be a deal breaker.
The US prefers an endless conflict.  It is an excuse to keep large military forces in the heart of Asia, and endless war helps line pockets of well connected folks in DC.    The point of US wars tends to be justifying huge Pentagon budgets and enriching the owners of the Military Industrial complex.  At its heart, the purpose is to extract wealth from US Tax Payers in a way they are unlikely to oppose because of propaganda related to security and patriotism.
You don't need to keep receipts for most things, and if you are not going to itemize your deductions (which as a college student, you probably won't), you need even fewer.  Things that you should always keep: If you are itemizing your deductions, you want to keep receipts for anything that you can itemize.  Some common things are: Another thing that you should do, but few people do, is keep track of your online purchases, since many states require you to pay sales tax on those purchases.  Of course, the state has no way of knowing what you buy online, so it is all done on the honor system.
Yeah, the VAT adds more fairness between who gets the taxes, but is only offset by it being more complicated and needing more bureaucracy. I think it's an interesting idea. If I were a policy analyst I'd like to see what costs are vs. benefit.
Laws like this replace tipping income with regular income, taking away the loophole that the IRS can't track cash tips. Most servers are not reporting their cash tips because they think they don't have to pay taxes like everybody else. It's tax fraud. Fuck them.
Advantage of filing online (at least with TurboTax) is that they keep a record of your prior year taxes on their servers.  Also, you could fill some stuff out at work, and then go home and continue where you left off.  You also wouldn't have to mess with installing software. File online.
"Sales tax and luxury tax is what you will have to pay tax wise, and they are non-refundable (in most cases but the rules vary area to area). This really tripped up some friends of mine I had come from England. The rules are complicated and regional. Sales tax is anywhere from 0% to 10.25% and are not usually applied to raw foods. Luxury taxes are usually state level and only apply to things most people consider a large purchase. Jewelry, cars, houses, etc. Not things your likely to buy. (Small, ""normal"" jewelry usually doesn't count. Diamond covered flava-flav clock ... probably has a luxury tax.) For sales tax, it can change a lot. Don't be afraid to ask. People ask all the time. It's normal. I personally add 10% to what I buy. Sales tax in my city is 7%, county is 6.5%, state is 6%. So you can get different rates depending on what side of the street you shop on some times. Under normal circumstances you do not get a refund on these taxes. Some states do give refunds. Usually however the trouble of getting that refund isn't worth it unless making a large purchase. You are not exempt from paying sales tax. (Depending on where you go you may get asked). Business are exempt if they are purchasing things to re-sell. Only the end customer pays sales tax. Depending on where you go, online purchases may not be subject to sales tax. Though they might. That, again, depends on city, county, and state laws. Normally, you will have to pay sales tax at the register. It will be calculated into your total, and show as a line item on your receipt.
I did my own taxes previously using both H&R Block Tax Cut and TurboTax.  When I had a simple return and was single, it worked great.  Once I got married it was a little more complicated.  When I started a small side business, I switched to an accountant.  He does a great job of adjusting deductions between my wife and I and filing separately.  This minimizes the amount of taxes we have to pay.  It has been a few years since I used the software, but I did not see the ability to easily make adjustments like that.
"There is also the very simple fact that cash is a *significantly* self-limiting thing: you are limited in amount you can spend on any give day to the cash you have on hand -- this along makes you either reticent to spend it, forces you to spread your purchases (or forgo one in order to enable another), and/or requires additional planning to spend larger amounts.  Conversely, most debit &amp; credit cards while they also have some limits on them, enable far more free spending.  So whether the spending of cash is a negative ""painful"" reaction, or really just an awareness that their available resource is being reduced, would be a better question.  After all, similar things are seen in other things that have short-term physical limits: smokers tend to smoke cigarettes more quickly at the beginning of a new pack, and tend to space out the intervals between them as the pack empties; likewise with other resources (food, beer, soda) within a home -- if/when the supply is abundant, we tend to gorge &amp; snack, as the available supply decreases, we cut back."
Yes same for me. But the company was complete shit, and offered debit cards for people who didn't have a bank account.   That does not mean they **can't** offer paper cheques, it means they **won't**. A very important distinction.
"&gt; I was saying a lot of people dont understand that. They see they spent X at Chilis (processing) and assume it to be fact. I don't understand why you're having such a difficult time with this concept.   And the solution -- keeping an ACCURATE and independent checkbook register (rather than relying on an ""online balance"") is still the same.  &gt;Also comparing swiping a debit card as credit to writing a check (in terms of when they show up on your account) is a terrible comparison.  Nope. It's the same thing.  You're still talking about a discrepancy between what has been processed, versus what you have ACTUALLY spent.  &gt;And calling me ignorant because I don't need the help writing down where my money is at or goes is pretty ironic.  Well, if you're having problems with overdrafts (as you claimed you had) then rather obviously you DO need help (or at least you need to own up to where the problem lies -- your faulty ""memory"" of what you spent)."
The way that credit card transactions happen are: In your example, the card is authorized for the charge but the transaction never actually moves on to the next step. However, your available credit should drop by whatever the authorized amount is and this will not disappear until it naturally goes away when the transaction does not move onto the next step.
You cannot directly transfer money from your Bank Account.   You can use Debit Card to make payments to your paypal account. Just enter the details of the payment and amount, it would make the necessary deduction from your debit card.   Indian regulations do not allow you to store value in your paypal account. This credits have to be transfered to a Bank account.
"You should probably call the travel agency and complain. Not that they will care, but if by any chance they do - they can ask PayPal to remove the block. This is what is called ""authorization pending"". Usually, a credit card transaction has two stages: The merchant requests its payment processor to authorize the transaction. The processor will contact the card issuer with the transaction details and will get the authorization code which will be passed to the merchant. At that stage the transaction enters the ""pending"" stage on your account. The merchant submits the transaction and gets the money from its payment processor, who forwards the transaction to the card issuer and gets the money from there. The card issuer charges the card owner. The transaction should have the same authorization code received in step #1, and by matching it to the pending transaction, the card issuer removes the pending transaction, and posts the actual transaction. However, if the transaction in step #2 doesn't include the code from step #1, the match doesn't occur and you see the situation you have now: both the actual transaction and the pending are active. In this case the merchant should contact its merchant processor and request the revocation of the authorization code. The processor will then forward the request to the card issuer, who will then remove the pending transaction. As you can see - multiple parties have to actually care for that to happen, and many times they don't, because they don't have to. As to the period - it's up to the card issuer (PayPal in your case), but 1 month is a very long time. Usually it's about a week or two, unless it's a hotel/car rental. In any case - once it expires, it will go away on its own and if you don't mind for the amounts to be blocked until then - just let it expire. The fact that you used a debit card for this transaction is irrelevant. Unless it was a pin transaction, debit card transactions are processed as credit card transactions by processors. For pin transactions, there process is different and you shouldn't see doubles. If it was a pin transaction - contact PayPal and check with them what's going on. Generally, PayPal is not to be used as a ""bank account"", it is merely a payment processor, and it is advised to remove the money from there as soon as possible."
Hmm, let's see, I always get Credit and Debit mixed up, but I'll try: Signing of the contract: Receiving 500 deposit: When you are done Accounts Receivable will have $500 (because you are owed $500), Revenue will have $1000 (because you made $1000 on an accrual basis), and Cash will have $500 (because you have $500 in your pocket).
You don't have to do the prepaid PP card, just get him his own PP account and then order him the PP debit MC. It will act as a debit on his PP account just like the Student Account card.
"The best way I know of to get the interest rate lowered is to call the credit card company and simply ask. Typically if a credit card company thinks you will leave them for another company they will be willing to work with you.  There is also the option of transfering some of the higher interest debt to one of the lower interest credit cards. It sounds like you have your friend on the right track by focusing all extra money on the credit card with the highest interest rate. Then after that one is paid off send all extra to the next highest one and so on.  The classic ""snowball"" effect."