vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"Saying that sales go online doesn't mean that a typical JC Penny shopper just goes to their site.  These people are going to google, shopping engines and Amazon.   ""Upping your online sales"" isn't that simple.  If the majority of shoppers are searching google and your listings don't show up, then that potential customer is going else where.   You could pay for PPC ads but return on investment on PPC can suck depending on your market and for products that have a long life cycle return happy customers could be years before they return.  Even worse, if JC Penny and Sears DID want to compete online their prices aren't really all that great either, so even if you landed on their site, chances are you can find it cheaper else where, and their overhead (from stores, and employees) makes it hard to cut prices to compete."
"Are there businesses which professionally invest ethically? Yes.  The common term for this is ""socially responsible investing"".  Looking at that page and googling that term should provide you with plenty of pointers to funds to investigate. Of course, the definitions of ""ethical"" and ""socially responsible"" vary from person to person and fund to fund.  You'll have to take a look at each fund to see which ones match your principles."
@JoeTaxpayer gave a great response to your first question. Here are some thoughts on the other two... 2) Transaction fees for mutual funds are tied to the class of shares you're buying and will be the same no matter where you buy them. A-shares have a front-end 'load' (the fee charged), and the lowest expenses, and can be liquidated without any fees. B-shares have no up-front load, but come with a 4-7 year period where they will charge you a fee to liquidate (technically called Contingent Deferred Sales Charge, CDSC), and slightly higher management fees, after which they often will convert to A-shares. C-shares have the highest management fees, and usually a 12- to 18-month period where they will charge a small percentage fee if you liquidate. There are lots of other share classes available, but they are tied to special accounts such as managed accounts and 401-K plans. Not all companies offer all share classes. C-shares are intended for shorter timeframes, eg 2-5 years. A and B shares work best for longer times. Use a B share if you're sure you won't need to take the money out until after the fee period ends. Most fund companies will allow you to exchange funds within the same fund family without charging the CDSC. EDIT: No-load funds don't charge a fee in or out (usually). They are a great option if they are available to you. Most self-service brokerages offer them. Few full-service brokerages offer them. The advantage of a brokerage versus personal accounts at each fund is the brokerage gives you a single view of things and a single statement, and buying and selling is easy and convenient. 3) High turnover rates in bond funds... depending on how actively the portfolio is managed, the fund company may deliver returns as a mix of both interest and capital gains, and the management expenses may be high with a lot of churn in the underlying portfolio. Bond values fall as interest rates rise, so (at least in the USA) be prepared to see the share values of the fund fall in the next few years. The biggest risk of a bond fund is that there is no maturity date, so there is no point in time that you have an assurance that your original investment will be returned to you.
In the long run the drivers are getting pulled from the equation.  I don't care how much regulatory pressure the self driving car industry faces, they'll have it figured out in 5 years. You are talking about an interest group that includes Google, Tesla, Uber, Lyft, Ford, GM and probably Apple. They are all spending billions on the technology and want a return on that investment.
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Via PM:  &gt;FYI, I wasn't trolling. If you're going to be running your mouth about an involved, complex, controversial topic, I'd like you to be informed about it. You're obviously not, which isn't a bad thing -- why would you be? If you ever have any questions about electronic trading, I'll be happy to help.  Look, chief. You're clearly butthurt that this marginally legal gravy train of free money will likely come to an end soon. But patronizing me isn't going to take that butthurt away. Feel free to have the last word, but please stay out of my PM inbox. Take care.
Online auctions have provided a new dimension to any trade by allowing individuals or businesses to buy and sell goods from anywhere and everywhere. It saves time, money and efforts in an incredible way while allowing you to trade faster than any regional market. On contrary to traditional and regional auctions, online bidding is advantageous. As a buyer, you can bid for something that is not easily available, while it is easier for a seller to get a fair price for their goods as the number of needy buyers increases. Here is all you need to know about internet auctions.
nice work! really enjoyed looking through your website. do you see any possible application of Machine Learning (specifically tensorflow) to this? I was thinking about building a trading bot that uses data from various APIs as a strategy just as an experiment but I'm wondering what your insights are.
So, since you have no record of picking it up, are you going to do the right thing and claim you never got it?  On another note, I was known at the local home depot for being the guy who ordered things online, they actually used my orders to train new people. That was back when buying online got 5% back from Discover.
Amazon's online retail end-game is clearly for them to be the platform that all other retailers use to sell goods online, as in Amazon manages the inventory, delivers the goods, collects the payment, takes their cut and gives the rest to the retailer. At a certain point that efficiency gained from managing and delivering inventory directly at such scale will make it literally impossible for anyone to compete without using Amazon's retail services.  UPS/FedEx will not like that new reality where they won't be able to compete with a company delivering their own goods directly from fulfillment centers and I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to see anti-trust/monopoly suits filed.
&gt; For example, if you're one of the growing AI companies of the world who sees a unique trained-up xNN as core IP or trade secret, I would be hesitant deploying such a thing to Aliyun.  I'd be hesitant to deploy trade secrets to any machines not directly owned and managed.
Like all other trading brokers in the industry, they both have been acknowledged with mixed reviews. Before signing up, it’s important to know whether they are running a legitimate operation or not.  You can see BinaryOptionsTrading-Review.com, judgebinaryoptions.com etc.  to inquiries about these sites. They conduct in-depth research to identify the legitimacy of each brokers present in the market. Hope it will help you in making the right decision.
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Yeah, everyone here is pretty much right, you shouldn't be getting into the futures market. However no need to jump on you, its good you asked a question and you should really read up on it. Futures are pretty complicated. Keep trying to learn though it will help if you read up a lot.
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I used XE trade once several years ago. I found them quite easy to use after the slightly fiddly account setup process (needed for security/anti-money laundering I think). I trusted them because I'd been using their online FX rates for a long time. I can't really comment on the specific questions you ask though as this was a long time ago and I haven't needed one since.
You can easily go to somebody like icici  ask for the demat section and enable overseas stock trading.
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Yes, the ADR will trade on a separate exchange from the underlying one, and can (and does) see fluctuations in price that do not match the (exchange corrected) fluctuations that occur in the original market. You are probably exposing yourself to additional risk that is related to:
"I'd recommend an online FX broker like XE Trade at xe.com.  There are no fees charged by XE other than the spread on the FX conversion itself (which you'll pay anywhere). They have payment clearing facilities in several countries (including UK BACS) so provided you're dealing with a major currency it should be possible to transfer money ""free"" (of wire charges at least).  The FX spread will be much better than you would get from a bank (since FX is their primary business). The additional risk you take on is settlement risk.  XE will not pay the sterling amount to your UK bank account until they have received the Euro payment into their account.  If XE went bankrupt before crediting your UK account, but after you've paid them your Euros - you could lose your money. XE is backed by Custom House, which is a large and established Canadian firm - so this risk is very small indeed. There are other choices out there too, UKForex is another that comes to mind - although XE's rates have been the best of those I've tried."
Disclaimer: Lest you interpret my post as a shameless plug for the OpenQuant platform, I'll state that I found the interface awful (it looked vaguely like Office 2000 but ten years too late) and the documentation woefully incomplete. I last used the software in 2010, so it may have improved in the intervening years, but your mileage may vary. I only use it as an example to give some insight into what you might look for in a backtesting platform. When you actually begin trading, a different platform is likely in order. That being said, it responded fairly quickly and the learning curve wasn't too steep. The platform wasn't too expensive at the time (about $700 for a license with no data feeds, I think) but I was happy that the cost wasn't coming out of my pocket. It's only gotten more expensive and I'm not sure it's worth it.
&gt; The government should invest roughly $130,000 in educating children in useful job skills so that they can make more than minimum wage.  And if the slowest player could just learn to be a little faster, everyone could get a seat in musical chairs.
Christ, I can't imagine making just $15/hr let alone 11.  The government should really invest in finding an algorithm that uses demographics to drive minimum wage changes and keep people working.   Or at least do *something* to make the decision at least *somewhat* scientific.
There should be.  The CPPIB (Canadian Pension Plan Investment Board) is one of the most well-funded pension plans in the world. Your question is also their #1 FAQ. Unlike many other countries, the measures were taken long ago, in that the fund was set up to be sustaining from investments and contributions; rather than just contributions. That said, the amount that CPP pays is not very much.  The maximum benefit is about $11,000 per year, and not many people I know can live on that little.  So you really should be trying to do something to augment that, if you are able.
&gt; why not lower the minimum wage?       Because businesses and landlords won't suddenly lower their prices.   They will just take the profits.      As a white collar worker earning far above minimum wage who owns middle class investment property,  I will probably win if minimum wages rise.   My rents will rise more than my maintenance costs + property tax rise.   As my interest rate is fixed, the inflationary pressures will effectively lower my debt.       I know who won't win, and that's the minimum wage workers who receive the pay rise.   Most of their consumption is provided by minimum wage worker intensive areas.   Fast Food, supermarkets, gas, utilities.   All areas that will rise, and what's left will be eaten up by rent rises.       Minimum wage should be fixed to inflation, rising annually by CPI.   Then we should stop talking about minimum wages at all, and focus on how we can assist in upward mobility.
Congratulations on making it at minimum you are close to a 2 millionaire if I understand your numbers correctly.  Here is what I would do if I woke up in your shoes: 1)  Take some time.  Budget some money and time.  Go live abroad, take hang gliding lessons or become scuba certified.  Something like that.  The only thing I really dislike about your situation is that your wife may be precluded on going with you due to her business concerns.  During this time dream, plan and decide what you want your life to look like.  You seem to understand that you won't be happy doing nothing for a really long time.  Its not a big deal if you blow 50K or so doing this.  Take the wife to Paris, go visit the Galapagos Islands.  2)  You are going to have to become wise about investing.  I'd put close to one million in stock based mutual funds.  That may sound scary, and you might seek others out to help you with this transition.  I feel like that your time spent in your business may have precluded you delving into this area of knowledge.  For now, you may just want to stick it all in interest bearing accounts, and slowly invest the money.  Don't invest in things you don't understand, and you have to be on the look out for the next Bernie Madoff.   3)  Its hard to speak to your desire to downsize your home.  You could probably buy a nice ranch in Nevada from the sale of your home if that is what you desire, but you may kind of hate something like that. 4)  Could you start more of a boutique business?  Not one that occupies all of your time, but one that takes 20-40 hours per week.  Something that interests you, not something that is overly a chore.  Perhaps you can consult in the field that your former business was in.  You most certainly have a lot of intelligent things to say.   5)  Be generous.  Find worthwhile charities to give time and money to.   Congratulations again.  Take some time to dream, and then make those things happen.   Edit:  You may need to make new friends.  Actually wealthy people are a very small segment of the population and are out numbered by people who act wealthy.  Its going to be hard, but you need to find people that have a certain level of wealth but are also don't make you uncomfortable with their level of spending (either high or low).
It's absolutely going to come eventually. But making a $15 minimum will make it happen right away, and there will be a cascade effect because everyone down the line will want a raise as well, and companies will figure out how to get rid of those people as well.
Tl;dr by anecdata I paid for my master's degree from investments/savings with a HELOC backstop  It appears you don't have the 62k cash needed for tuition and living expenses so your decision is between financing a degree by selling your investments or a loan.   Ultimately this comes down to the yes/no sell decision on the investments.  Some things to consider:
Your mother has a problem that is typical for a woman with children. She is trying to help her children have a good life, by sacrificing to get them to a point where they can live comfortably on their own. Though she has a difficult situation now, much of the problems come from a very few choices by her and her children, and her situation can be fixed. Let me point out a few of the reasons why she has come to this point: My mother is a single mom... she is turning 50 this summer... she has about $60k in school loans from the college I attended... she has payments of $500/month ($10k) to my sisters college... she lives on her own in a 2 bedroom apartment... Mother's current 'income statement', Income Essentials (total $3131, 71%, too high, goal $2200) Lifestyle (total $150, low, she should have $500-900 to live her life) Financial (total $1350, 31%) Some observations and suggestions: Even though the $1625 rents seems high, your mom might enjoy her apartment and consider part of her rent ($300) a lifestyle choice (spending money for time), and the higher rent may make sense. But the rent is high for her income. Your mom should be spending more on food, and budget $200/month. Your mom should be saving money for investments and retirement. She should be putting 10% into savings ($440), plus any IRA/401K pretax savings. Your sister should be paying for her own college. She should take her own student loans, so that her mother can save for retirement. And since she only has $10K left, an alternative would be that you could loan her the money, and she could repay you when she graduates (you have money, as you loaned your mother $8K). You should be repaying the $500/month on the $60K student loan your mother took to help you get through college. You have benefited from the education, and the increased opportunity the college education has given you. Now is the time to accept responsibility and pay your debts.
My answer would be yes. In addition, I'm not sure that anything requires you to roll your current 401(k) into a new one if you don't like the investment options.  Keeping existing funds in your current 401(k) if you like their investment options might make sense for you (though they obviously wouldn't be adding funds once you're no longer an employee). As for the terms of the potential new 401(k), the matching percentage and vesting schedule match what I've seen at past employers.  My current employer offers the same terms, but there's no vesting schedule.
You read it right. Todd's warning is well taken. I don't know the numbers involved, but have a brilliant suggestion that may help. A Solo 401(k) is simple to qualify for. Any bit of declared side income will do. Once the account is set up, a transfer from IRAs is simple. The Solo 401(k) can offer a loan provision as any other 401(k), and you can borrow up to 50% (max of $50K) for any reason with a 5 year payback. The standard rate is Prime+1%, the fee is minimal usually $50-$100.  All the warnings of IRA 'loans' apply, but the risk of job loss (the largest objection to 401 loans) isn't there. The fact that you have 6 months to set this up is part of what prompts this suggestion.  Note: Any strategies like this aren't for everyone. There are folk who need to access quick cash, and this solves the issue in two ways, both low rate and simple access. Phil already stated he is confident to return the money, the only thing that prompted my answer is there's real risk the 60 days a bit too short for any business deal.
They are mutually exclusive.  Provided you meet the income limits you can contribute to both.  Employer match do not count toward the 18K.   On the other hand traditional IRA and Roth IRA are inclusive.  So if single and making having a MAGI under 118K, you could do the 18K of your own money into a 401(k), and $5,500 into a Roth. You can put in $23,500 of your own money with the employer match on top of that.
I think you understood much of what I say, in general. Unfortunately, I didn't follow Patches math.  What I gleen from your summary is a 1% match to the 10% invested, but a .8% expense. The ETF VOO has a .05% annual fee, a bit better than SPY.  A quick few calculations show that the 10% bonus does offset a long run of the .75% excess expense compared to external investing. After decades, the 401(k) appears to still be a bit ahead. Not the dramatic delta suggested in the prior answer, but enough to stay with the 401(k) in this situation. The tiny match still makes the difference. Edit - the question you linked to. The 401(k) had no match, and an awful 1.2% annual expense. This combination is deadly for the younger investor. Always an exception to offer - a 25% marginal rate earner close to retiring at 15%. The 401(k) deposit saves him 25, but can soon be withdrawn at 15, it's worth a a few years of that fee to make this happen. For the young person who is planning a quick exit from the company, same deal.
&gt; if you leave like 5k at all times in your account the fee is waived  Easier said than done. In the US, more than 20% of adults have zero savings whatsoever, and 62% have less than $1,000 in savings. Pretty tough for most folks to have $5,000 just sitting around in order to prevent a $15 monthly fee.
This doesn't look particularly unreasonable, but a few notes: It's a little misleading to say that 45% of his paycheck is gone. Roughly 6% of his gross pay went to his 401(k). That money is still his; he's just chosen to save it in a particular way. Depending on the choices he's made for his retirement savings, he'll also reduce his tax bill right now and/or during retirement by making these contributions. Some of the other costs also go to social programs that may pay you back (granted, they may not always be as good as those in Europe, but it's not that you'd get nothing in return): In any case, $130K/year is certainly a lot on a global scale, but San Francisco is a very expensive city, and housing costs in SF have risen a lot lately. You've nicely summed up why a lot of families unfortunately leave the city.
I'd look at Fairmark and understand where in your current bracket you fall. If you are only a bit into that 25% rate, I'd go pretax so you end the year right at that level $69K in 2011. I'd Use the 401(k) to capture any match your company offers, and then use the IRAs for the rest. It would take quite a bit saved for retirement to retire you into the 25% rate, so take advantage of that 15% while you can.
Generally speaking:   401k good. Whole life bad.  You'll come out ahead if you buy term life (which will cost like 10% of what whole life costs) and invest the other 90% that you would have paid in premium.  The only merit that whole life has is if you're estate planning and and want to leave your kids a ton of money, tax free.   If you're thinking about saving money for yourself, whole life is not a good choice.