vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Short answer: yes. Long answer: you have to check with Desjardins if you can buy other funds using their broker, but if not you can just open another RRSP account with a better broker who gives you this option. You can open an many RRSPs as you wish. If you are really unhappy with Desjardins, you can then transfer your money from there to your new broker without being exposed to tax. http://www.getsmarteraboutmoney.ca/en/managing-your-money/investing/rrsps-for-retirement/Pages/RRSP-transfers.aspx#.VlOBSHpVKlM
If you are looking to open an NRE Account, the banks have now made the process very simple and quick.Here, we will have a detailed look at what NRE Account is and how to open one such account.For more details, visit https://www.icicibank.com/nri-banking/nri-banking.page?
It's a good saving account from the persepective of usability. Easy to open, easy to manage, and free at least in Italy. Anyway be aware that in 2008 you would not probably have been so happy to know that your saving were in bank that was close to go banckrupcy. On October/19/2008 the Ducth government had to inject 10 billions euro into ING Group to save it from a probable collapse. At least the CEO Michel Tilmant was fired, and also 7000 poor employees was cutted off. After that, it seems they just went on selling themslevs in pieces in order to restructure source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ING_Group#History But they also partially repaid the Dutch goverment and now their rating is around A, so it seems to be a safe place to put your saving for now.
I recommend opening a UTMA investment account with any of the major discount brokerage firms (Schwab, Fidelity, etc) and making regular deposits into an index or target fund. Have the statements sent to your niece's address so she can see the growth over time. The custodian of the account will have control until she turns 18 or 21, then she will have full use of the money. You have other options (like a 529 account), but those come with restrictions on how the money can be spent.
Next, pull together the paperwork - make sure you've got the title (if there is a lien on the title, check with the lienholder before advertising the car so you know their procedure for releasing the title), any maintenance records you have, manuals, receipts etc. If the vehicle has a salvage title, try to find out why and mention it in the ad. I've just had a comedian phone me while I was driving to see his vehicle and leave a message that he didn't have a title and didn't seem to be willing to bother to get one, either. Obviously that put me in the right frame of mind, given that it was a 200 mile round trip. So don't do it - if you can't get a title, the schmuck you sold it to will have even less of a chance of getting one. And given that you are in California, a lot of people (including myself) react really badly to three years' worth of back registration, missing smog, expired registrations on something I'd expect to test drive etc. Essentially anything that would stop a potential cash buyer to drive it away on the spot. Next, clean the car - you know, the five years' of accumulated McD wrappers and inch thick layer of dirt (I'm only partially kidding, I've seem some pretty horrible stuff recently). Spend the two hours it takes to clean it or pay to have it valeted or detailed. Clean, shiny cars sell a lot better than a rolling recycling container. Oh, and last - make the effort take some decent photos. The more the merrier, shot in daylight (no photographing a black car after sunset) and if there is any damage, an additional photo or two showing the damage would be nice. Stick the on photobucket or similar and put the links in your craigslist ad so you don't restrict yourself to the microscopic photos that you normally get on there. As to payment, I'd either take cash, meet the buyer at his bank where he draws out a cashiers check in front of your eyes, or, well, cash. No Kauri shells, deeds on bridges in Brooklyn or anything else.
What Jaydles said. I think of each strategy in terms of Capital at Risk (CaR). It's a good thing to know when considering any position. And then conveniently, the return is always profit / CaR. With covered calls it's pretty easy. Pay $1000 for stock, receive $80 in premium, net CaR is $920.  If you own the stock and write calls many times (that expire worthless, or you that you buy back), there are two measurements to consider. First, treat every covered call as a buy-write. Even if you already own the stock, disregard the real cost basis, and calculate from the moment you write the call, using the stock price at that time. The second measure is more complicated, but involves using something like the XIRR function in a spreadsheet. This tracks the series as a whole, even accounting for times where there is no written call outstanding. For the written put, even though your broker may only require 30% collateral in a margin account, mentally treat them as cash-secured. Strike less premium is your true CaR. If the stock goes to zero by expiration, that's what you're on the hook for. You could just compute based on the 30% collateral required, but in my view that confuses cash/collateral needs with true risk. Note: a written put is exactly identical to a covered call at the same strike. If you tend to favor puts over CCs, ask yourself why. Just like a loaded gun, leverage isn't inherently bad, but you sure want to know when you're using it.
Keep in mind your household income is in the top 20%, which does not translate to wealth. Given a healthy income, and no debt, other then a small house payment, you probably have a decent amount of free cash flow.  This could easily be used to buy a car on time… which a lot of people do.  Congratulations on being different.   Having said that, living as you do, you will likely be wealthier than your income suggests. If you invested the amount you saved on car payments for an average car you can become a muli-millionaire. Doing that alone can put you in the top 10% of the wealthiest in this nation. Keep in mind 76% of Americans live paycheck-to-paycheck, so there is a sizable portion of the population that make more than you do, yet one costly emergency can cause them to spiral into significant financial difficulty. News flash: Emergencies happen. If I am not being clear, you are living wisely! I would recommend reading The Millionaire Next Door and The Millionaire Mind. You will understand that not following the whims of advertisers is good for your bottom line and that it is good to be different from the general population. One of my favorite stories from the author is these yuppies hires the author to find them rich people to sell their products. The author gets the rich people by offering them cash, albeit a relatively small amount considering their wealth (about $200) and lunch. The yuppies complain that the guys don’t “look rich” as there are no fancy suits or Rolex watches. One of the rich guys likes the pitch so much in inquires on how he can buy the company. There are a lot of lessons in that short anecdote.
Paying yourself first is a method to ensure you are meeting your financial goals whatever they may be. It's also an easy way to automate the process of sending money where you need it go without needing to think about it. Your goals could be to buy a bit of a mutual fund every month, max your IRA, or stash a percentage of each paycheck in a wedding savings account. Maybe you are saving for a house. Knowing you should save and not doing is guilt generating. Paying yourself first means regularly putting money to these goals so you can stop worrying. Any way you figure it, you've still got bills to pay.  Paying yourself first means taking care of these payments right off the top of your paycheck. The money goes where you need it. A good move is to automate this with bill pays, ACH transfers to investments accounts, etc. Once this is done, you can guiltlessly spend the money that is left over knowing that you've taken care of the important things and met all your goals. You never have to find yourself wondering if you paid your cell phone bill or if you have enough money to go out tonight. Savings for the new car you want are, as they say, in the bank.
Unless you are getting better than a 2.95% return on that money market account. Pay cash. That's the purely logical way to make the decision. However if it were me I'd pay cash anyway just because I like the idea of not owing money and having the hassle of dealing with a payment every month.
"In the U.S. at least, a lot of these CoinStar machines are now owned and operated by the store or other venue in which they're placed, as a convenience to customers, and the fee for using it is waived. These machines, even without a fee attached, are still beneficial to the store, for two reasons. First, they bring in potential customers; the machine usually spits out a ticket that you take to the cashier, meaning you pass by all the impulse items they put in the checkout lines, and someone using the change catcher will invariably pick up a pack of gum or a magazine to spend your newfound wealth. The fact that one store has a change machine while another doesn't can also be the difference between choosing that store over the other for a planned shopping trip. Second, and less obvious, a store that owns a CoinStar machine has full access to the change people put in it (hey, they own the machine and are paying out cash on the receipts it spits out). During normal use of a cash drawer or register to take in money, large bills ($20/20€ or larger) are accumulated to be ""broken"", small to medium bills (1-10 units) stay roughly static in number as payments are made and larger bills are broken, and coins are invariably depleted as change is paid out. This means the average retail store needs a constant incoming supply of coinage, and that generally happens either through armored car service or similar commercial banking (which costs the store money), or through ""change catchers"" like gumball machines (which usually can't supply all the needed denominations). The Coinstar machine effectively reverses at least a portion of this attrition of coins and accumulation of large bills; the store can now receive coins and pay out large bills as a part of its day to day business, reducing or even eliminating the need to have a bank or armored car perform this service. Anyway, check and see whether the CoinStar machine you last used is still operating on a percentage-fee basis; it might be the case that the store has purchased the machine outright and is offering its services free of charge. If not, look around; other stores may be waiving the CoinStar fee where this one isn't (or they may have similar, non-CoinStar branded machines).
I'm imagining a scenario where Toyota sends an armored truck full of gold out to go find half-a-ton of aluminum. The drivers cannot rely on any promises or ""fractional reserve"", they must only trade the physical gold in their truck for actual aluminum or expenses along the way... This starts to defy sanity, in a modern economy. You have to rely on the promises of middle-men and suppliers and contractors and so on. And the instant you have promises, you have fractional reserves, because people are getting paid and money is changing hands that hasn't been minted yet. It's not just the impracticality of your local supermarket having to trade a bag full of gold for a shipment of lettuce, it's that contracts to purchase would be meaningless, because the driver would have had to give a smaller bag of gold to the supplier, who gave a smaller bag of gold to the grower, and so on... moreover, the supermarket would have to just wait to see what entrepreneurial driver shows up and what they have. The supermarket obviously cannot ""order"" a hundred heads of lettuce per week with a promise to pay, not unless we also give the supplier permission to order a hundred heads of lettuce a week from the grower, and the grower permission to order seed and hire workers sufficient to grow a hundred heads of lettuce a week, and the workers permission to set up car-payments to get to work, and the seed-supplier to so on and so on... That sequence of promises is ipso-facto a ""fractional reserve"" system, with or without a central bank. People are promising to deliver gold/cash/whatever that they don't currently have. Moreover, it is entirely possible in a gold-denominated currency for everyone to *keep* those promises, since the gold, like any currency, just keeps changing hands and cycling through the economy. Your example of ""gold certificates"" is exactly equivalent to privately-arranged contracts/promises to produce a certain amount of gold on completion. It's promises all the way down, unless we insist on instant cash-transactions, e.g., literally handing an employee a dollar's worth of gold every five minutes, or whatever.
Then you divide that number by the term of the loan and you have the depreciation amount. So if you have 20K CC and 10K R your D = 10K / 36 = 277 monthly payment. For the rest of the monthly payment you add (I think been a long time since I did this with out a computer) the Residual plus the CC for $30,000 * MF of .00345 = 107 for a total payment of 404 ish. This is not completely accurate but you can use it to make sure a salesperson/finance person is not trying to do one thing and say another as so often happens on leases. 0% how the heck do they make money at that, well its simple. First in 2008 the Fed made all the ""Captive"" lenders into actual banks instead of whatever they were before. So now they have access to the Fed's discounting window which with todays monetary policies make it almost free money. In the past these lenders had to go through all kinds of hoops to raise funds and securitize loans even for super prime credit. Those days are essentially over. Now they get their short term money just like Bank of America does. Eventually they still bundle these loans and sell them. So in the short term YOU pay for the 0% by giving up part or all of your rebate. This is really important DO NOT GIVE up your rebate for 0% unless it makes sense to do so. When you can get the money at 2.5% and get a $7000.00 rebate (customer cash) on that F250 or 0% take the cash. First of all make the finance guy/gal show you the the difference in total cost they can do do this using the federal truth in lending disclosures on a finance contract. Secondly how long will you keep the vehicle? If you come out ahead by say $1500 by taking the lower rate but you usually trade out every three years this is not going to work. Also and this is important if you are involved in a situation with a total loss like a stolen car or even worse a bad wreck before the breakeven point you lose that price break.
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"Envelope budgeting is pretty simple. It's easy enough that you can teach it to children, and flexible enough you can use it as an adult. The general idea is that you take your cash money (no bank accounts involved in the simple version), and stick it in envelopes marked for what it's supposed to be for. So for example, you get paid, you cash your paycheck and you put $100 in an envelope marked food. Now when you go out to eat, you go get the money out of your food envelope, and spend it on food. When your food envelope is empty you go hungry. In the simple version you have envelopes for things like ""food"", ""candy"", ""toys"", ""games"". etc. (simple version is usually taught to kids.) So you want a $60 game, and your game envelope only has $5. Well you can't get the game. You need to add more money to the game envelope. You need to eat so you have to put money there, but maybe you don't need toys. So you can divert some incoming money from toys to games. Sure it's still going to take a while to get to $60, but now with some simple kid friendly math you can see how long, and more importantly, you can make decisions on what is more important. Candy or Toys? In the adult version things are much the same. We just have more envelopes. We have Rent, Car Payment, Gas, Food, Electric. Then we need some envelopes for ""savings"" and ""retirement"". etc. Now when you get your Paycheck you prioritize your money and you stuff it in the envelopes. How much you put in each envelope is easy. Enough to pay for that thing. Savings and Retirement meet different goals. You want $6,000 savings. Well just like that game in the kid version, you're not going to get there all at once. But you can see and make decisions on what is most important. You want $1,000,000 to retire on.
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"Once the examination is done, it is recommended to begin calling around to different purchasers. The most solid reestablished auto purchasers are scrap auto evacuation organizations, scrap terraces, and ""money for autos"" administrations. These are the parts that compensation the most for rescued, assaulted, and trashed vehicles and furthermore give junk car quote. It is critical to contact a few associations, additionally in the event that they are not in your general vicinity. This sort of research will offer you a thought for the going rate of the piece vehicle you have and the condition it stays in; at that point you could unquestionably recognize reasonable offers and forthcoming cheats. They ended up being the best cash for Cars Company."
"Pay cash.  You have the cash to pay for it now, but God forbid something happen to you or your wife that requires you to dip into that cash in the future. In such an event, you could end up paying a lot more for your home theater than you planned. The best way to keep your consumer credit card debt at zero (and protect your already-excellent credit) is to not add to the number of credit cards you already have.   At least in the U.S., interest rates on saving accounts of any sort are so low, I don't think it's worthwhile to include as a deciding factor in whether not you ""borrow"" at 0% instead of buying in cash."
If so, put it back! These are controls you can put into place that don't take a lot of discipline. Writing the items down on the receipt is a more advanced step you can take later. If you are with friends, go first so that you can write down the items while they are checking out. If you are private and don't want to share your method with your friends, go to the bathroom and in the stall write it down while they wait. Writing the items on the receipt while in the store is sort of a trigger mechanism for remembering to do so. That pulling out of the card triggers your memory to get out your pen or ask the cashier for one. The side benefit is catching someone using a cloned copy of your card. In the medical account if you see an Exxon charge, you know it's not yours. Also, while that one account is shut down, you have three others to rely on in the meantime. My spouse hated fumbling for the right card. They all look the same. Color code your cards. We have blue cross blue shield so it feels natural to have the food/medical account with a blue sticker (just buy a little circle sticker and place it on the edge so half is on the front and half is on the back -- nowhere near the strip). I've never been given a hard time about it. Our car is red so the car card is red, etc. If you think four cards is a lot to carry, ask yourself if you would rather carry four cards or keep track of every little thing? Good luck. I know you will find a system that works for you if you keep trying."
The best way to do this is to pay for the entire car, including gas, insurance, and repairs, from S-corp funds, then meticulously track how many miles are used for personal and how many miles for business. If you pay with S-corp funds, you will claim the personal miles as a taxable benefit from the S-corp on your personal return. The S-corp can then claim all the expenses and depreciation on the vehicle, reducing the S-corp's tax liability.
"There are many tactics you can use.  If your biggest problem is regretting your larger purchases, I'd suggest giving yourself rules before making any purchases over a certain minimum dollar amount that you set for yourself.  For example, if that amount is $50 for an item, then any item starting at an average price of $51 would be subject to these rules. One of your long-term goals ought to be to become the kind of person who finds joy in saving money rather than spending it.  Make friends with frugal people - look for those who prefer games nights and potlucks to nights out at the club buying expensive drinks and dinners at the newest steak joint in town.  Learn the thrill of a deal, but even more learn the thrill of your savings growing.  You don't want to enjoy money in the bank for the purposes of becoming a miser.  Instead you want to realize that money in the bank helps you achieve your goals — buying the house you want, donating a significant amount of money to a cause you ardently support, allowing you to take a dream vacation, letting you buy with cash the car you always wanted, the possibilities are endless.  As Dave Ramsey says, ""Live like no one else, so you can live like no one else."""
Pay cash for the house but negotiate at least a 4% discount. You already made your money without having to deal with long term unknowns. I don't get why people would want invest with risk when the alternative are immediate realized gains.
Zero percent interest may sound great, but those deals often have extra margin built into the price to make up for it. If you see 0%, find it cheaper somewhere else and avoid the cloud over your head.
I agree with you. The quiz was looking at it differently, as if you had a huge card balance and were making minimum payments.  The fact that I run all my spending through my cards somehow looks like my card payments are 60-70% of my budget. But when you break it out, zero of that is interest, and it's just a budgeting tool.
No, it means that each year (Annual Payment Rate) you are accruing interest at 29.8%. If your principal is $10,000, that means you are gaining $3,000 of debt per year in addition to this, excluding payments you make/interest on interest.
If interest rates are negative, a 0% load might still be profitable.
The payments might be on time, but the aren't made the same numbers of days apart: The percentage of the daily payment for interest is decreasing, but the numbers of days wasn't constant.