vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"You are effectively 'making' 3.8% right now. By maintaining a loan at 0% vs the 3.8% you'd otherwise pay, you are ahead by that percent.  Now, if you borrowed at 3.8%, and made 7.6% on your investments, taxes aside, you'd break even. you are exactly ahead by the same 3.8%.  It seems to me that with a break-even of 7.6%, you'd be taking a risk based on the market return over the next few years. In a sense, that's true for any of us, but in your case, you are not deciding where to put idle cash, you already have the 3.8% option of ""leave well enough alone."" This is where I'd quote Harry Callahan - 'you've gotta ask yourself one question: ""Do I feel lucky?"" Well, do ya, punk?'"
Banks don't care that you are responsible cardholder. They care to make money. Interest rates are basically 0% by government policy and the banks charge their responsible cardholders 20% interest rates. Think about that for one second, and realize they really do not care about your ability to avoid paying interest, they only need you to 'slip up' one month during your entire lifetime to make a profit from you. It is in their interest for you to get into a spending habit, from 0% promo rates, so that eventually a frivolous purchase or life changing event causes a balance to stay on the card for over one month.
I'm pretty sure you are don't actually plan to put £120,000 into a zero interest account, because when you take inflation into account, in 20 years, then £120,000 won't be worth anywhere near that amount.  For its value to grow you need the interest rate to exceed the rate of inflation and so paying 20% (or even 40%) tax on the interest can make the difference between whether being richer and getting poorer.
"Their interest expense was $17M. Where you see $5.14/sh in Key Statistics, any daily interest received is more than canceled out by the expense paid at the same time. I understand your concern, but this company is not ""sitting on cash"" as are Apple, Google, etc. Short term rates are well below 1%, 1yr tbill looks like about .2%. So strictly speaking, each share might have 1 cent interest you need to concern yourself with. Disclaimer to other readers - This has nothing to do with taxes. OP is asking about a specific part of the company cash flow. His worst case is $1 per 100 shares."
Right, so if a federal interest rate near 0 percent is not enough to stimulate the demand for those loans, then we have pretty much exhausted what we can do with monetary policy. So the only thing left is fiscal policy - raise spending or lower taxes
They immediately make money by charging you the initial 2.39% fee.  In the long term they make money because a surprisingly large number of customers don't pay the balance off, or otherwise violate the terms of the offer, so that the 18.95% rate applies.   And sometimes, depending on card policies, they make money when the consumer makes new purchases on the card which accrue interest immediately at the 18.95% rate while payments only go to paying down the 0% rate balance.
Although there are no transaction fees from PayPal, your bank should treat this as a cash advance rather than a payment and so will charge you fees.  The cash advance fee will be larger than 1%, so you'll definitely lose money.  Plus you'll start paying interest immediately (unlike for purchases).  PayPal warns that you'll get cash advance fees here.
IMO, it's a good deal. Pre-paying 3% interest is better than accruing it at 1-2% per month. The other nice thing about it is that all of your payments hit the principal.
I got that notion from Max Kaiser, his ideas about that are mostly about interest rate apartheid - banks and rich people get money at zero interest, we pay 9, 10, 30%.  I think it involves everything from how we are seen in the eyes of the law to assuming risk, etc.  We are expected to play by the rules and they are not.
I think this has to do with the fact that the interest is charged to your balance and grows everyday. As a result, the computer broke it down so that it can capitalize on that remaining balance. If your regular student loan payment was $500 a month at 5% interest, but your balance became $499, spreading out the $499, they can make more money off you. It might not be a lot, or in your case essentially 0, but it could be better than nothing.
"Also talk to your bank(s) or credit union(s); first one of mine I looked at offers an unsecured loan at 7% variable, and a signature loan at 7.5% fixed, no hidden costs on either. You might do better. Also check store credit. Sears used to offer 1-year-0% financing on appliances if you signed up for the store's card at the time of purchase, and if you have the discipline to reliably pay it off before interest hits that's a hard deal to best. Other stores have offered something similar for major purchases of this sort; do some homework to find out who. (I bought my fridge that way, paying it in month 10.) The ""catch""  is that many people get distracted and do wind up paying interest, and the store hopes that having an account with them will encourage you to shop there more often.)"
As long as you paid 90% of the taxes you owed, you are good, and there will be no negative consequences. These calculations are supposed to help you find the right amount, not to bind you to it, so you don't need to worry too much about exactness. The most common problem is that people underpay, and not come up to the 90% limit (and don't have the cash to pay when tax-day comes). If you happen to come in under 90% (which will come out when you file taxes), you will owe interest for the underpayment (as you should have paid it some time ago); typically 0.5% per month; also up to 10% in addition, depending on the situation. This is expensive, so you should avoid it; and playing to hit 90.01% is dangerous - better try to hit about 100% and use the 90% limit as safety margin, as intended.
Part 2 = 12%  -5000/0.12 (1 - 1/(1.12^2 ) = -8450.26 Then subtract year 0s 5000 payment if you havent = -13450.26 and then compare to option 2 -2000/0.12 (1 - 1/(1.12^10) = -11300.46 and subtract 20000 -31300.46  As you can see both values are substantially smaller compared to a 4% discount rate.
1.8% interest isn't bad, but unless you're a higher rate taxpayer a Santander 123 account might be better for you than an ISA. See http://www.theguardian.com/money/2015/mar/23/cash-isas-pointless-savings-revolution
No.  There is no guarantee that credit card issuing banks will always use 0% introductory rates to entice anyone.
What you want to do is figure out how much you're paying in interest, solely (ie, the interest part of each payment), add that up over 48 months, then figure out the net value of the cash inflow/outflow for the points over 48 months (ie, 3.5% annual return on the positive or negative value).  Sum those two.  Then you can see your P&L, and your total cash outflow (up to you if you add a % to your negative initial outflow, and how exactly you consider your $2k closing costs; I agree with JoeTaxpayer about adding at least closing costs to the loan amount.  If you have money to pay the points that would otherwise be earning money, you could alternately consider it a negative cash (ie, instead of accruing 3.5% it's a negative balance accruing that). In excel I'd do something like: Then track changes in H and I when you change columns B and C and G.
Bank reserves are at an all time high. Nobody is willing to take out a loan to grow their business right now because aggregate demand is down so hard. At the same time the stock market spooked everyone, and on top of it, people are paying down their home mortgages at a record pace. So you have record low demand for loans, and record high supply of capital (money), so, yeah interest rates are at 1%, effectively 0 if you are in a savings account. -Devaluing the currency to boost the exports component of the aggregate demand curve seems like it could work, but since the rest of the world is also hurting who are you going to export to? The corporate sector isn't going to start spending until the consumer is on their feet. The consumer isn't going to start spending until they get jobs. Do you see the chinese finger trap here??? The only way out of the riddle is to increase government spending, and history has shown that it works."
It's a good idea to have some emergency money so I would propose a plan that keeps some in your savings:  If the 0% goes away, then consider paying it off, but by that time hopefully you have built up your savings a bit more. Also consider the ability to move the balance from the 2% cards to the 0% one, if that is possible.
When I have had background/credit checks, I have had to fill out a form first.  You may be able to attach your proof that the debts are paid to your form.    I had a friend that bombed his background check because his birth certificate and passport didn't have matching names (two variations on the same name, but it spooked the securitiy company).  He had a chance to contest the finding and was still hired.
I imagine that they check it because if they accept one from you and then their bank discovers it when they try to pay it in, it's their loss.
"I don't think the reason is ""to verify that it is truly me"". It should be possible for someone else (friend, relative...) to make a payment on your behalf, using their own card. It is common that ""gift cards"" are not per-authorized for ""Card Not Present"" (CNP) use like on the internet, or over the phone. In many cases, you can register your card, online or by speaking to a representative over the phone. After that, you should be able to use it to pay your phone company. Also, depending on where you got the card, you may be able to go to a teller at the issuing bank, and withdraw cash (or get a check), possibly without a fee."
ACH transfers are reversible and traceable. So what's stopping them is the ease and the speed with which they would be caught. When you give a check - you have to provide some information to the payee so that they could cash it. You can't withhold the bank or the account number - how would they charge you? So it has to be on it, and if it is on it - it can be put on any other (fake) check. That is why checks come also with your signature, and are always available for you to inspect when they're cashed. If you notice something out of the ordinary (check you didn't give? ACH transfer you didn't authorize?) on your statement - it is your responsibility to notify the bank within X period of time (60 days, I think) of the statement, and it will be dealt with. So the best way to protect yourself would be to keep an eye on your account and verify that the transactions that you see are all authorized, and do it frequently. Keeping large amounts of cash on your checking account is never a good idea, regardless. Also, since checks are inherently unsafe - try to only give checks to people you trust, and use bill-pay or credit cards with anyone else.
Lost checks happen occasionally, and there are procedures in place (banking & business) to handle the situation.  First and foremost you need to: Note: The money is legally yours, so the company is obligated to work with you here.  If they refuse to cancel or reissue the check, at a minimum you'll want to contact the state government and let them know about the company's actions, if small claims court is not an option.  Businesses aren't permitted to keep 'forfeited funds' in most states, instead they are required to turn them over to the government who would then return them to you when you ask for it.  It's rather scummy of the government bureaucrats, because it puts them in the sole position to benefit from forgotten money, but that's the system we've given ourselves. Since you've moved overseas since the last time you worked with this company, you might need to exercise a little patience and be willing to jump through some hoops to get this resolved.  Be prepared to provide them proof of who you are, and be ready to pay for extra security such as certified mail / FedEx so that you're both sure that the new check is delivered to you and only you. Last of all, learn from your mistake this time and be a little more cautious / proactive in keeping track of checks and depositing them in the future.
Taxes Yes. You haven't indicated why the transfer is being made. If it is without any reason, it would attract a Gift Tax. legal liability It would definitely be investigated to see if Money Laundering or any other illegal activities is happening. If things are in order you have nothing to worry. charges  Normally none. Your Bank can confirm better. friend of mine Are you sure he is a friend and this is not some kind of scam ... it typically starts of with you will get huge money and then calls like its stuck with RBI you need to paysome one to fast track or any such stories to get money out of you.
I'm not an expert in the field, but I'm pretty sure they *do*, its just that the customers arent us, but rather the landlords/cc companies/car dealerships/etc. who pay them for credit checks. Those parties do choose to do business with them and have alternatives.
Yes this is a huge security loophole and many banks will do nothing to refund if you are scammed.  For example for business accounts some Wells Fargo branches say you must notify within 24 hours of any check withdrawal or the loss is yours.  Basically banks don't care - they are a monopoly system and you are stuck with them.  When the losses and complaints get too great they will eventually implement the European system of electronic transfers - but the banks don't want to be bothered with that expense yet.   Sure you can use paypal - another overpriced monopoly - or much better try Dwolla or bitcoin.
Yes, and there are almost no checks (no pun intended) on people pulling money from your account using a routing number. It is an EXTREMELY insecure system. If you want a real Halloween scare, read this article: Easy Check Fraud Technique Draws Scrutiny. Unfortunately you just have to live with it. If you are curious why this loophole is allowed to continue, consider how hard it is to close it without undermining the convenience of checks. Short of you going to the bank with each person you write a check to and showing ID to validate the transaction, I don't see how you could continue to use a negotiable instrument like this without such a security hole.  The ultimate answer is going to have to be replacing checks with other means of payment.
The only certain way is to have the issuer confirm it. You'd think there would be a better way, but no there isn't. I suggest you read this story about what can happen even if you are the innocent victim trying to cash a fraudulent Cashier's Check. The consequences included some jail time and huge attorney fees for this unlucky person.
And that's really bad, because when that happens to you at your bank, your friends the customers of other banks start worrying about their money, and run on their banks, which fail, which cause more people to worry and try to get their cash out, lather, rinse repeat, until the whole economy crashes. See -- The Great Depression. So, various governments introduced ""Deposit Insurance"", where the government will step in with the cash, so when you panic and pull all your money out of the bank, you can go home happy, cash in hand, and don't freak all your friends out. Therefore, the fear that your money might not really be there is assuaged, and it doesn't spread like a mental contagion. Everyone can comfortably go back to believing the fiction, and the economy goes back to merrily chugging along. Meanwhile, with mutual funds & ETFs, everyone understands the money you put in them is invested and not sitting in a gigantic vault, and so there's no need for government insurance to maintain the fiction. And that's the point they're trying to make. Poorly, I might add, where their wording is concerned."
"This is not only a scam but it is potentially fraud that may get you in trouble. This ""friend"" of yours will wire you some money in which you do not know where this money is really from. It's obvious from other answers that his story is fictitious. Thus it is likely that this money was stolen through another scam/hack in which now he wants to wash this money through your bank account. If it turns out that is was stolen, any money you withdrawal for your ""cut"", will have to be returned and your account will be frozen."
Because it makes money for all parties, and because the general public is reluctant to any change. Who should have an interest to change that? People. And they have no say in it. You can actually do a lot without paper checks nowadays (I only use one per year for car taxes, as they do not accept anything else), but many people shake their heads about even online banking and would never trust it.
The typical rule in the US is 180 days, but some banks do it differently. However, even if the check is dead, you should be able to call the payroll department for your old job. They can stop payment on the old check and issue you another one.
Even if it's just replacing a few light bulbs at first, eventually you'll need something major: an appliance will die, your roof will spring a leak, anything (I had both of those happen in the first year, though it could be bad luck). You should make sure that you can afford the increased monthly payments while still well under your income. Once you're locked in to the house, you can still set aside a smaller chunk of your income for a new car 5-10 years down the road. But if you're current car is getting down to it's last legs, you should get that fixed up before you lock yourself in to an uncomfortable situation. Don't be in too much of a hurry to buy a house. The housing market still has a ways to go before it recovers, and there's not a whole lot to help it along. Interest rates may go up, but that will only hurt the housing market, so I don't expect it to change too much for the next several months. With a little bit of sanity, we won't have another outrageous housing bubble for many years, so houses should remain somewhat affordable (interest rates may vary). Also keep in mind that if you pay less that 20% down on the house, you may end up with some form of mortgage interest, which is just extra interest you'll owe each month.
"I really want a CEO to play up impending doom one time. ""We seriously need funding. Anybody out there want some equity with warrants?""   Here's to hoping that this company does well. As of now, that is too much for me to pay for a car."
What angers you specifically though? they offered an additional car model at a lower price that you could upgrade whenever you wanted, and it was only for their 1 cheapest model to reach more people before the model 3 release. What's wrong with that?
Given Tesla have decided this is a sufficiently important enough event that the extra capabilities are unlocked that means the car has the ability to peak in emergencies but only Tesla has control. Tesla defines what counts as an emergency that would boost your car. That is actually pretty bad, a personal emergency and lack of power might get you killed yet the car is capable of going further but Tesla says no with a software lock.
"Yes you can. Volvo for example sells ""polestar"" tunes. Walk into the dealership, plunk down $1600, and your car gains 40 horsepower  from a software tweak. Still maintains the full warranty. Ford sells ford performance tunes the same way. Zero hardware changes. Here is the link http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-az/XC70(08-)/Accessories/Document/VCC-480810/2016"
You can buy a new Toyota from a non-dealer, but not from Toyota directly as they have no retail distribution capability. There is no need to buy directly from Toyota if you want to get a new car without going through a dealer. In many cases people buy new cars but have to sell them immediately for one reason or another.
Hot dogs - counts as part of the food basket. Hardly one-off.   Cars - maybe could be included. On average, people buy cars every 5 years, so 12 cars for an 80 year old.   Gas - that one could well be warranted, the problem is the high volatility and the fact that fluctuations are not due to inflation, but rather commodity price fluctuations.   All the other stuff (phones, tv’s, Appliances, etc) is stuff that needs to be replaced several times throughout a persons life, so not one-off purchases.   House prices can and should address d through other mechanisms that have nothing to do with inflation. Either through better planning codes or macro prudential measures, but certainly not through manipulating interest rates.
If something goes wrong it's much easier to work with a single debtor, then three separate debtors. This could mean moving your car loans into your mortgage, even if it's at a higher interest rate, should the need arise. Should you need to do that you will need the equity in your home. Bonus Points: As others have stated, there are tax breaks for people with mortgages in some circumstances. You should consider those as well. Car loans usually require a different level of insurance. Make sure to count that as well. Taking these points into consideration, I would suggest, paying off the 2.54% car loan first, then putting the extra $419.61 into your mortgage to build up more equity, and leaving the 0% loan to run it's full course. You all ready ""paid for"" that loan, so might as well use it. Side note: If you can find a savings account or other investment platform with a decent enough interest rate, you would be better served putting the $419.61 there. A decent rate ROTH-IRA would work very nicely for this, as you would get tax deferment on that as well. Sadly it may be hard to find an account with a high enough interest rate to make it a more attractive option the paying off the mortgage early."
"As the others said, you're doing everything right. So, at this it's not a matter of what you should do, it's a matter of what do you want to do? What would make you the happiest?  So, what would you like to do most with that extra money? The point is, since you're already doing everything right with the rest of your money, there's really nothing you can do that's wrong with this money. Except using it on something that increases your monthly expenses, like a down payment on a car.  In fact, there's no reason you have to do anything ""sensible"" with this money at all. You could blow it at nightclubs if you wanted to, and that would be perfectly ok. In fact, since you've got everything else covered, why not ""invest"" it in making some memories? How about vacations to exotic and rugged places, while you're still young enough to enjoy them?"
Which to do is determined by how you like to consume cars. If you don't drive a lot and like to get a new car every 2-3 years, leasing is often the better choice. If you drive a lot or want to keep a car longer than 3 years, you're normally better buying.
Not really. You just pay the other side of payroll taxes your employer typically pays. That's 7.65% more on your net. Not that much, all things considered.  Plus, on part time Uber driving, the depreciation deduction on a car should exceed true depreciation costs. Putting 10K more miles on a car each year does not result in that much extra depreciation.  2010 Honda Civic DX Sedan 4D with 100K miles is worth $4,500 in Good condition, according to KBB.  With 130K miles, it's worth $3,900.  That's a difference of $600, or $0.02 per mile.  You'll have more oil changes, brake replacements, gas, and other operating costs. But depreciation is small potatoes compared to the $0.535 in deductions per mile.  Edit: If you would own a car regardless of whether or not you drive for Uber, Uber isn't a bad deal. It's a bad deal if you have to buy a car just to drive for Uber. It's all about the marginal cost of a mile.