vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"No one is FORCED to use leverage. But most people do. Trading companies like it because, the more leverage, the more ""business"" (and total commissions). If someone starts with $1 million and leverages it up ten times to ten million, companies would rather do ten million of business than one. That's a given. On the other hand, if you're Warren Buffett or Bill Gates, and you say I want to do $1 billion of FX, no leverage, no trading company is going to turn it down.  More often, it's a company like IBM or Exxon Mobil that wants to do FX, no leverage, because they just earned, say $1 billion Euros. Individuals USUALLY want to use more leverage in order to earn (or lose) more with their capital."
&gt; I've read in the WSJ a number of times that finance is unsurprisingly moving in a more intellectual direction, so i feel having this license in the long run may really pay off.  Intellectual as in becoming more and more dominated by PhD and academia based backgrounds.
"Spend less.   As @jldugger said, shop around for textbooks.  Make sure to look for used books: you can sometimes save a lot of money there. Be smart about food money.  I could go to our on-campus grill and get a sandwich and a salad for lunch.  If I packed both with toppings, the salad could be a 2nd meal for the same day.  If you have the option, get a meal plan that is just 1 meal a day, and eat a lot that meal. Don't do the starbucks ""pay several dollars for a coffee each day"" thing.  Small-ish regular expenses add up quickly.   Quit smoking (if applicable). Ditch your car if possible.  Some colleges are in cities with good public transportation or are small enough that a bike will do.  Cars are very expensive.  Try to find free activities to do in your free time.  Usually college towns are great places to find free fun.  Pick-up sports, student concerts/art shows, playing board/card/video games. Make sure to track how you're spending money to look for areas where you could be spending less.  There are plenty of tools available to help with this.   Some on-campus jobs involve sitting around and occasionally doing something: IE working the checkout desk at the library.  A job like this (if you can find one) can effectively pay you for doing our homework. One other very important college-related financial tip is to not take out more loans than you can afford.  I've heard a good rule of thumb is not take our more loans than you expect to earn your first year after graduating.  Look up average starting salaries for the career you realistically expect to have after you graduate.  If you would need to borrow much more than that to get your degree, rethink your plans.  Being a slave to a bank for years is a crappy way to spend your life."
Sure, but if a company can reduce its workforce to incur less liabilities don't you think they'd do it? Everyone from HP, GM, GE, AT&amp;T .... ALL of those and many many more would do so if it meant lower liabilities.  Some companies could do it, some can't. His company is medium enough size he may have that option. A company with 150,000 employees would need a waiver or eat the costs.   **Again, it's not about right and wrong, it's about incentives and available options once those incentives/disincentives are active.**
"We had the same amount of jobs as in 2008 (actually we had slightly more!). We have not ""added"" any jobs. Site is down so I cannot check the article, but if you compare salaries across 2008 to today's wages, and you come up with 93 Billion in less wages, then what is the problem with the math?"
Pretty sure that's a theory for one.  Two just because you are paying someone $20 that doesn't mean they will be as productive as 3 at $12.  To put it one way, that is like saying someone in California (where minimum wage will hit $15 soon and that lots making $20 as well) will be more productive than someone in say Ohio with a lower minimum wage.  I know the topic isn't about minimum wage, but its the best way I could describe my point.
Just call your credit union and ask if they will let you refinance at the lower rate. If they won't, then just increase your payment every month so that your car is paid off early (in 36 months instead of 60). You won't get the lower rate, but since your loan will be paid early, you'll be saving interest anyway.
"Repayment of student loans is usually deferred until graduation. Unless you are late or non-performing on a loan, it will make no difference to an auto loan. To get a (normal) auto loan you will need to demonstrate a source of income or have the loan co-signed by someone who does have income. As a general rule of thumb, banks care a lot more about your income than your ""credit score""."
Well no because the auto dealers aren't on the hook are they, they've offloaded the loans onto some investment vehicle somewhere out in the ether.       Let's be clear this all nets a massive loss. The car has already depreciated by 50% of the retail value, plus you have the costs of recovery and the margin of the guy who's going to re-sell it. And what did you gain? You squeezed a fraction of the price of the car out of the lender who was making minimum repayments before he defaulted.      The upshot is that *someone* just bought a lot of cars that are now worth less than what they paid for them. Who's going to take the hit, Wells and Fargo?
The range is fine. It's ~ 1-2X your annual income.  First, and foremost - your comment on the 401(k), not knowing the fees, is a red flag to me. The difference between low cost options (say sub .25%) and the high fees (over .75%) has a huge impact to your long term savings, and on the advice I'd give regarding maximizing the deposits.  At 26, you and your wife have about 20% of your income as savings. This is on the low side, in my opinion, but others suggest a year's salary by age 35 which implies you're not too far behind.  Given your income, you are most likely in the 25% federal bracket. I'd like you to research your 401(k) expenses, and if they are reasonable, maximise the deposit. If your wife has no 401(k) at work, she can deposit to an IRA, pre-tax.  It's wise to keep 6 months of expenses as liquid cash (or short term CDs) as an emergency fund in case of such things as a job layoff. They say to expect a month of job hunting for each $10K you make, so having even a year to find a new job isn't unheard of.  One thing to consider is to simply kill the mortgage. Before suggesting this, I'd ask what your risk tolerance is? If you took $100K and put it right into the S&P, would you worry every time you heard the market was down today? Or would you happily leave it there for the next 40 years? If you prefer safety, or at least less risk, paying off the mortgage will free up the monthly payment, and let you dollar cost average into the new investments over time. You'll have the experience of seeing your money grow and learn to withstand the volatility.  The car loan is a low rate, if you prefer to keep the mortgage for now, paying the car loan is still a guaranteed 3%, vs the near 0% the bank will give you.
As observed, there is no answer that will fit all, but below are some considerations: Your monthly requirement is 5000, so you have 3000 left to pay the monthly instalments (EMI). However, if you do pay 3000, you will have no money left for any other activities (holidays etc.) till your EMI is finished Set off a sum, let us say 500-1000, per month (you shall have to decide), for other expenses The rest of the money, in this case 2000-2500, you can pay as monthly EMI If you indicate that your monthly EMI to the bank, they will be able to tell you how much of loan you are eligible for and for how long the EMI would last. This is your benchmark If this loan amount is 750,000 or more, you do not need to put in your own money. So the decision then becomes how fast you want to pay off your loan and as accordingly you shall utilize your 500,000 However, if the EMI will not cover a loan of 750,000 (more likely case), you have options between the following: a. Max out on your loan that 2000-2500 EMI/month (in terms of years as well as amount) can get you and put the rest from 500,000. b. Min your loan in terms of amount and time and put your entire 500,000 c. The middle ground is to balance between the loan and your own money, which is the best approach, there is no figure here that works for all, you have to take the decision based on your circumstances. However, in general, the shorter the loan term (in years) better it is as in aggregate you pay less money to the bank. If you are 1-2 months away from buying the house, one exercise you could do is to keep the EMI money in a separate bank account and see how you fare with the residual cash, this would give you a good reality check. Hope this helps, thanks
The 5% to 6.5% loan rates are a bit high. You'll probably want to pay those off first, and make it one of your priorities as soon as you have a 6-month savings fund. This should probably take precedence over savings for retirement, unless you're giving up a 401(k) match. Pay extra on the highest-interest loan until it's all paid off, then switch to the next one down, and accelerate the payoff as much as you can. If you're looking at a loan at 6% and a payoff date in 8 years or so (2020), am extra dollar paid now will save you ~$0.60. Not a bad return in general, and an excellent return for something that's zero-risk. The other loans, at 2-3%, are different. An extra dollar paid now on a 2% loan will save you $0.17 over 8 years. That's a pretty mediocre return. If you have a good, stable job and good job prospects, and a decent family support network, and few commitments like children and mortgages, and a low cost of living... generally, the things that help you have a high tolerance for risk... then you should consider investing your money in the stock market instead of paying off these loans any earlier than you need to. (Broad index funds and the like, not individual stocks).
Simply walking into the dealer with this printout in your hand cuts out a lot of nonsense. The one time I bought new, I basically walked in and said ""It's the end of the model year. I'll give you $500 profit to take one of those off your hands before the new ones come in, if you've got one configured the way I want it."" Closed the deal on the spot; the only concession I had to make was on color. It doesn't always work; some salesmen are idiots. In that case you walk away and try another dealer. (I am not affiliated in any way with CU or the automotive or lending industries, except as customer. And, yes, this touch keyboard is typo-prone.)"
Mortgage rates generally consist of two factors: The risk premium is relatively constant for a particular individual / house combination, so most of the changes in your mortgage rate will be associated with changes in the price of money in the world economy at large. Interest rates in the overall economy are usually tied to an interest rate called the Federal Funds rate. The Federal Reserve manipulates the federal funds rate by buying and/or selling bonds until the rate is something they like. So you can usually expect your interest rate to rise or fall depending on the policies of the Federal Reserve. You can predict this in a couple of ways: The way they have described their plans recently indicates that will keep interest rates low for an extended period of time - probably through 2014 or so - and they hope to keep inflation around 2%. Unless inflation is significantly more than 2% between now and then, they are extremely unlikely to change that plan. As such, you should probably not expect mortgage interest rates in general to change more than infinitesimally small amounts until 2014ish. Worry more about your credit score.
"As reported by ZeroHedge in January 2016:   ""While the media claims that this record has been reached because of drastic improvements to the US economy, they are once again failing to account for the central factor: credit expansion.""   ""In order to generate more vehicle purchases, these companies have incentivized consumers with hot, hard-to-resist offers, similar to the infamous “liar loans” and “no-money down” loans of the 2008 recession.""   http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2016-01-11/auto-loan-bubble-ready-pop.   Pro tip: Get your news over 1 year in advance by reading ZeroHedge and not shitty Bloomberg or other lamestream media."
I believe the bigger overall risk is debt is going to become more expensive. Interest rates are going to increase. This added cost to consumers will slow down the economy. I don't believe it will be economic crisis but definitely will weeken our credit driven economy.
Oh bullshit.  Trolls don't have 88,000 karma.  The fact is that you accused me of being anti-intellectual.  I then pointed out that, no, you were.  And then you come up with this bullshit.  You will find that getting along with other people is a lot easier if you can admit when you are wrong instead of launching counter-attacks.
Yeah, but he got a lot of karma as well. If a lot of people go read an article and like it some will give an upvote. Someone told me that only about one out of ten page views give a vote, ie, if you got 5 upvotes and 5 downvotes then probably 100 people clicked on your link. So if he had a karma of 150k, he'd produced a million and half page views.   But I'm sorry The Atlantic got involved in this because I always liked them and used to subscribe. I'm disappointed they would get involved in cheating. If they did they need to be banned.
Your score is real-time, updating every time new data hits the reporting agencies. Dilip is correct, go over 20%, and it will hit the report, but then the score returns to normal after the next bill shows a sub-20% utilization.  Say your average spending is $1000, but your limit is $5000. There's no harm in asking for a small increase in the limit, or simply pay a bit toward the bill before the statement is cut. The bill and reported balance will be lower and your score, unaffected.
The credit scale is deceptive, it goes: AAA, AA, A, BBB, BBB-, BB+, BB, B, CCC, CC, C, D. In reality it should be A,B,C,D,E, F, G,H, I, etc. The current scale does not reflect with clarity the ranking of risks and ratings. AA is much worse than AAA, but the uncertainty involved can be scary. Check out these corporate and sovereign debt credit ratings.
Definitely! BitCoin could also alleviate some of the concern that people might have about their identity/payment details being used to track their browsing habits.  If your payment method is anonymous, and you can register with a pseudonym, you can read all the twilight fan-fic you want!
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Not sure where you got the 296 crores figure. The data on the sheet shows activity by category of investors. In the end NET of all BUY and SELL across all categories will always be Zero. It has no bearing on whether the stock market goes up or goes down. If you compare only activity by certain category, say FII then there could be more SELL compared to BUY or vice-versa.
FI funds don't always drop in rising rate environments, and can outperform thanks to simple bond math and the way the indexes are built.  It's one of the places where it's very easy to argue in favour of some form of active management.
&gt; The best country is only 10% better...  No, the US is average to below average. Your calculation assumes a baseline of 0 but that isn't the case.  For math we scored 487.  The top score is 600 and the bottom is 331.  That puts us in the 58th percentile in the full range.  Don't feel bad.  You probably went to an American school.
Simple math: 50-25=25, hence decline from 50 to 25 is a 50% decline (you lose half), while an advance from 25 to 50 is 100% gain (you gain 100%, double your 25 to 50). Their point is that if you have more upswings than downswings - you'll gain more on long positions during upswings than on short positions during downswings on average. Again - simple math.
otherwiseyep linked to a good explaination, but is downvoted due to it having an inflammatory title (Why S.&amp;P.’s Ratings Are Substandard and Porous).  Basically, S&amp;P ratings correlate with a corruption perceptions index:  &gt; Other factors that S.&amp;P. looks at, which can be determined through regression analysis, include a country’s G.D.P., its inflation rate, its recent deficits and its long-term debt. But the subjective Corruption Perceptions Index is more closely related to the S.&amp;P. ratings than any of these economic fundamentals.  As an analogy, S&amp;P looks at whether you wear a suit and tie to the job interview.  It probably works OK during a boom - countries with low corruption have a lower risk of default due to non-financial problems (revolutions, crazy governments).
SECTION | CONTENT :--|:-- Title | Bitcoin explained real easy.  Raise Your Frequency S1.E1 Description | Bitcoin explained real easy so anyone can understand what it is and how it works..     You decide which system you prefer:   current money system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9IH-XKQpOI  current money system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhSIfVyvDdM current money system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuP2hH0Kpro current money system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bx5Sc3vWefE   Bitcoin: https://medium.com/zapchain-magazine/the-10-best-videos-to-watch-to-learn-about-bitcoin-c34f98f2fed... Length | 0:26:48           ****   ^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^[Info](https://www.reddit.com/u/video_descriptionbot) ^| ^[Feedback](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=video_descriptionbot&amp;subject=Feedback) ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)
"Overall LCR is good for the financial system and makes for healthier, more liquid banks. But some of the assumptions are heavy-handed.  For instance, if a Non-Bank FI has a revolver used for backstop (subscription facilities), LCR assumes they will draw 100% of the revolver in a 30-day stress case. 100 percent! So the bank has to hold $1 of liquid assets for every $1 of revolver commitment (not even actual lending). ""Outflow rates"" are similarly conservative for other borrowers - 30% for corporate CP backstop facilities, which are only available to the most creditworthy companies.  Another issue is that some High Quality Liquid Assets actually attract Basel 3 capital. So LCR is forcing banks to hold these assets which increase their B3A/B3S capital requirement. It's double jeopardy.  And of course there's the additional cost and operational risk of implementing and monitoring any new regulation. Banks must hire or train people to calculate LCR, and those people can make mistakes, leading to penalties. However most large banks have been calculating LCR well ahead of the phase-in date."
There's also no way we'll ever walk around with computers in our pockets that can calculate a trajectory for a lunar insertion orbit in less than a second yet we all do.  That we've gone through two major employment revolutions (industrialization, mechanization) and there's still in general enough things that people have to do that we can rely on employment to drive the economy I don't see that being a guarantee that this will continue for a third and fourth rounds.  So we pose a 'what if?'.  What if there is another revolution in automation and we no longer need people to move things around, sell things or clean?  That covers all of retail, shipping and most service sector jobs.  Even if we still need some people in the loop we could see what happened to manufacturing where employment drops 10:1 or 100:1 because all the grunt work is now done by machine.  What happens when there's no more jobs that you can do without a Bachelors minimum education?  There are a lot of people who just aren't cut out for those kinds of jobs and would hate having to do them - not to mention do them poorly.  What does that world look like?  Yes it's the stuff of Sci-fi right now but so is today's world to people only 40 years ago.
From bitcoin.tax: Another clarification in the IRS's March notice was how mining should be treated. Mining is income, on the day of receipt of any coins and at the fair value of those coins. This means that if you mined any Bitcoins or alt-coins either solo, as part of a pool, or through a cloud provider, you need to report any coins you received as income. Where it is less clear, is what that dollar value might be, since the fair value is not always as easy to determine. Bitcoins, Litecoins, Dogecoins, are all examples of where there is a direct USD market and so you can easily find out their value of any given day. However, a newly created alt-coin that was mined in its early days has no direct market and so how do you determine its value? Or for any alt-coin, e.g. ABC coin, that has no direct USD market but does have a BTC market. Does it have a value? Do you have to make a conversion from ABC to BTC to USD? Since there is no clarification yet from the IRS on this issue you should discuss how to proceed with your own tax professional. BitcoinTaxes has taken a prudent approach and calculates value where a fiat or BTC market exists, converting an alt-coin to BTC to USD as necessary. And from Bitcoin magazine: The IRS also stated mined bitcoins are treated as immediate income at the market value of those mined coins on their date of mining. “Most don’t know they can write off any losses they have,” said Libra founder Jake Benson. “The IRS allows you to offset income by up to $3,000 per year on capital losses. If you have losses and you aren’t writing them off, then it’s like throwing money away. Nobody likes doing taxes, but if you can owe less or increase your return, then doing your Bitcoin taxes often results in a benefit. In fact, the majority of our users are filing a capital loss, which means they’ve actually saved money by using our tool.” Benson also gives insight for miners.
"FTA: ""Verizon would give up its television and Internet landline business known as FiOS, which has been a cable alternative for 14 million U.S. homes.""  Somebody explain to me !!! WTF does it mean? Are they going to give FiOS over to Comcast?"
"Like I said, the heat index is just a ""how it feels"" calculation. I never said the heat index determines evaporation, just that the calculation for getting the heat index is based on humidity and temperature.  The dew point (based on temperature AND humidity) is what governs evaporation.  The dew point is the temperature at which water will evaporate given a specific relative humidity.  In other words, you can't calculate the dew point unless you know the humidity.  If your skin temp is lower than the dew point, water will condense on your skin.  It doesn't matter if other things are cooler than your skin. Water may condense on those items more quickly, but it will still condense on you."
The solution to this problem is somewhat like grading on a curve. Use the consumption ratio multiplied by the attendance (which is also a ratio, out of 100 days) to calculate how much each person owes. This will leave you short. Then add together all of the shares in a category, determine the % increase required to get to the actual cost of that category, and increase all the shares by that %.
That's why I said you can do a weighted average and take into account other factors. The initial average calculation is just a simple, high level average to compare betas across different listings. For a more precise calculation you would have to weigh different factors.