vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
If you haven't already, check out his earlier articles when he was at DealBreaker.com - GREAT stuff, my [favourite one](http://dealbreaker.com/2011/09/lets-just-go-ahead-and-assume-that-greek-letters-evil/) is when UBS had a delta one trader Kweku losing $2.1b from unauthorized/unreported trades in the midst of Dodd Frank/Volcker Rule was being discussed.   &gt; A thing that you probably do is go borrow one million shares of UBS and sell them short. This is a sensible thing to do. Why is it sensible? Well, for one thing, your desk is called “delta one,” and you’ve written a derivative, and you want to delta hedge that derivative, and so you pull out a Black-Scholes calculator and plug in a lot of variables and get stuck but then you look at your business card and you’re like, oh, shit, the answer is “one,”
As you do your budget, you will probably struggle, at first. You will find that you don't have enough income to cover your expenses. Fortunately, you are now armed with data to be able to tackle this problem. There are two causes: either your expenses are too high, or your income is too low. Cut your expenses, if necessary. Before you had a written budget, it was hard to know where your money went each month. Now that you have a budget, it might be apparent that you are spending too much on food, or that you are spending too much on entertainment, or even that a roommate is stealing money. Do what you need to do to cut back the expenses that need cutting. Increase your income, if necessary. You might find from your budget that your expenses aren't out of line. You live in as cheap a place as possible, you eat inexpensively, you don't go out to eat, etc. In this case, the problem isn't your spending, it is your income. In order to stay out of debt, you'll need to increase your income (get a job). I know that you said that this will slow your studies, but because you are now budgeting, you have an advantage you didn't have before: you now know how short you are each month. You can take a part time job that will earn you just enough income to remain debt free while maximizing your study time. Build up a small emergency fund. Emergencies that you didn't plan for in your budget happen. To remain debt free, you should have some money set aside to cover something like this, so you don't have to borrow when it comes up. The general rule of thumb is 3 to 6 months of expenses, but as a college kid with low expenses and no family to take care of, you won't need a huge fund. $500 to $1000 extra in the bank to cover an unexpected emergency expense could be all it takes to keep you debt free.
I would not prepay a loan with a 3.79 rate, with just a tiny bit of inflation that's nearly free money. I would always seek to first max out a tax deferred savings program before making investments that are not receiving preferential tax treatment. (outside of emergency money, which you say is already dealt with)  Especially since you effectively get an immediate return on the investment = to your marginal tax rate.  (or to look at it another way, it takes a much smaller amount of money 'out of pocket' in order to make the investment) Every thousand you could put into a tax deferred account now, is generally equivalent to putting in several times that amount 20 years from now. OTOH Once you've maxed out the tax deferred savings, or if you need to set aside money for large purchase with a big time horizon that is short of retirement age, then making regular monthly investments in a no-load index fund with a quality company is a great way to go as you will be taking advantage of Dollar Cost Averaging, and a good deal of diversity, which is a great way to put money into the market.  Just make sure you are investing in a fairly broad index, such as the S&P500 and not a little dinky 30 stock index like the Dow.
I think you're doing the right thing. One of the benefits of tax-deferred account, aside of it being tax-deferred, is that it keeps the money locked from you. Some people think it's a bad thing, I think it's a good thing. The amount of money locked is not that significant relatively to your income (10% in your case, which is a lot relatively to others of your age, and shows that you think ahead and plan for your future), but it builds up a cushion to fall to when you're old. Many people don't think of the time they're old, or think they'll be the same or better (income-wise) as they're now. That is not so. Although during the period of your life your marginal tax will indeed grow, in the end it goes back down again for most of the people, and that is because your income goes down. It is then that you need the money you're putting aside now, and the more you put aside, and the earlier you put it aside - the more you will have then. The fact that it's locked promises that you will have it then, not before when you want to buy a house you can't afford or impress a girl with a car you can't pay for. In my mind that's the best benefit, and the fact that the earlier you start putting the money there, the more gains it will acquire until you actually need it. So keep up the good work, and save for your future, lock out that 10%, and invest the rest in other channels which may be more risky and with more potential gains.
You can’t say low buildings are popular if constructing tall ones is illegal, it doesn’t make sense.  Unless you’re a civil engineer, you’re not qualified to speak on whether or not it would be a good idea to build taller buildings in NZ.  If supply is artificially restricted, prices will rise. That’s econ 101. It’s the same reason prices are out of control in San Francisco.
I doubt you're going to find anywhere that will give you free outgoing wires unless you're depositing a huge amount of money like $500K or more. An alternative would be to find a bank that offers everything else you want and use XETrade for very low cost online wires. I've used them in the past and can recommend their services. Most banks won't charge for incoming wires. I have accounts at E*Trade Bank that don't charge any fees and I can do everything online. You might want to check them out. E*Trade also offers global trading accounts which allow you to have accounts denominated in a few foreign currencies (EUR, JPY, GBP, CAD and HKD I think). I don't think there is a fee for moving money between the different currencies. If your goal is simply to diversify your money into different currencies, you could deposit money there instead of wiring it to other banks.
"It's possible to cash cheques by post. When I did this, it involved filling out a ""paying-in slip"" (I had a book of these provided by the bank) and posting the cheque together with the slip to an address provided by the bank. You could also bring the paying-in slip and the cheque to a branch and deposit them there, and it wasn't necessary that you were the account holder, just that the details on the slip matched the account you were paying into. I Googled ""paying-in slip"" and found the instructions for HSBC as an example: Paying-In Slips. It explicitly mentions that you don't need to be the account holder to do this, and moreover there are even blank slips in the branch, which you just need to fill in with the correct account details. I think the procedure is much the same for other banks, but presumably you could check the relevant bank's website for specific guidance."
Some already mentioned that you could pay with your savings and use the credit card as an emergency buffer. However, if you think there is a reasonable chance that your creditcard gets revoked and that you need cash quickly, here is a simple alternative:
If you hold your contract until the expiry date and exercise your contract by taking (or making) delivery, then you are obliged to buy (or sell) 100 ounces of gold at the price at which you bought (or sold) the contract - not the current spot price. So long as your contract is ""open"" (i.e., prior to the expiry date and so long as you own the contract) you are required to make a ""good faith deposit"" to show that you intend to honour your contractual obligations. This deposit is usually called ""initial margin"". Typically, the initial margin amount will be about 2% of the total contract value for the gold contract. So if you buy (or sell) one contract for 100 ounces of gold at, say, $1275 an ounce, then the total contract value will be $127,500 and your deposit requirement would be about $2,500. The initial margin is returned to you when you sell (or buy) back your futures contract, or when you exercise your contract on expiry. In addition to initial margin, you will be required to maintain a second type of margin called ""variation margin"". The variation margin is the running profit or loss you are showing on your open contract. For the sake of simplicity, lets look only at the case where you have purchased a futures contract. If the futures price is higher than your contract (buy) price, then you are showing a profit on your current position and this profit (the variation margin) will be used to offset your initial margin requirement. Conversely, if the futures price has dropped below your contracted (buy) price, then you will be showing a loss on your open position and this loss (the variation margin) will be added to your initial margin and you will be called to put up more money in order to show good faith that you intend to honour your obligations. Note that neither the initial margin nor the variation margin are accounting items. In other words, these are not postings that are debited or credited to the ledger in your trading account. So in some sense ""you don't have to pay anything upfront"", but you do need to put up a refundable deposit to show good faith."
"The way they are tricking you is that they will ask you to send some of the proceeds of the check back to them, after you deposit it in your bank account. So, lets say they send you a $2000 check. You deposit it, send them $500 over western union. And then the bank pulls all $2000 out of your account (the value of the check), leaves you with a negative $500 balances and freezes your account because it took them 3 days to figure out the check was bad. You'll also be in trouble with several authorities. (Whether you send the actual fraudsters money or not) The people that ""enlightened you"" made some money. They get away with it because you don't know their name or anything, the check was written in your name, which is the main paper trail. There is no temp agency."
I did find this information from the US Department of the Treasury: What are the penalties for withdrawing money early from a Time Certificate of Deposit (CD)? Federal law stipulates that all time certificates of deposit (CD) that are cashed out early are subject to a minimum penalty. If you withdraw an amount within the first six days after deposit, the penalty consists of at least seven days' simple interest. Other than that, national banks can set their own penalties; there is no maximum. Additionally, you may want to review the Account Agreement that the bank provided when you opened the account, as it explains the early withdrawal penalties. Check the paperwork to see if there is a short period at the start where the penalty is minimal. Each bank can set their own rules for the maximum penalty. Some base it on x months interest, some as a percentage of the CD, others may use a more complex formula.
"Your #1 problem is the Government both in it's form as a taxation outfit and as a 'law and order' outfit.  You'd be very surprised at how fast a bank seizes your bank account in response to a court order.  Purchase 100 Mexican 50 Peso Gold (1.2 oz/ea).  These coins are cheap (lowest cost to get into) and will not be reportable on sale to taxing authorities.  That money is out of the banking system and legal system(s).  Do not store them in a bank! You need to find a tax strategist, probably a former IRS agent / CPA type. With the rest remaining money...  There's an old saying, Don't fight the Fed.  As well as ""The trend is your friend"".  So, the Fed wants all savers fully invested right now (near 0 interest rates). When investing, I find that if you do exactly opposite what you think is the smart thing, that's the best thing.  Therefore, it follows: 1) Don't fight the Fed 2) Do opposite of smart 3) Do: Fight the Fed (and stay 100% out of the market and in cash) We're looking like Japan so could remain deflationary for decades to come.  Cash is king..."
"You cant! There is the risk that between the time you get the check and the time you get to the bank that you will be murdered, have a heart attack, stroke, or aneurysm too.  And they are probably more likely than the bank going out of business between the time you deposit the money and get access to it. Prior to accepting the check I would do the following: Get a lawyer that specializes in finance and tax law.  There are some steps you can take to minimize your tax exposure.  There is little you can do about the immediate tax on the winnings but there are things you can do to maximize the return of your money.    You will want to do what you can to protect that money for yourself and your family.  Also create or revise your will.  This is a lot of money and if something happens to you people from your family and ""friends"" will come out of the woodwork trying to claim your money.  Make sure your money goes where you want it to in the event something happens to you. Get a financial planner.  This money can either make you or break you.  If you plan for success you will succeed.  If you trust yourself to make good decisions with out a plan, in a few years you will be broke and wondering what happened to your money. Even at 1% at 20million dollars that is 200k a year in interest... a pretty good income by itself.  You do not have to save every penny but you can plan for a nice lifestyle that will last, if you plan and stick to your plan. Do research and know what bank you are going to deposit the money in.  Talk to the bank let them know of your plans so they can be ready for it.  It is not every day that they get a 20 million dollar deposit.  They will need to make plans to handle it.  If you are going to spread the money out among several banks they can prepare for that too. When choosing that bank I would look for one where their holdings are significantly more than you are depositing.  I would not really go with one of the banks that was rescued.  They have already shown that they can not handle large sums of money and assuming they will not screw it up with my money is not something I would be comfortable with.  There were some nice sized banks that did not need a bail out.  I would choose one of them."
"Changed to answer match the edited version of the question No, you do not need to write the date of your endorsement, but you can choose to do so if you want to. The bank stamp on the back will likely have the date and perhaps even the exact time when the check was  deposited. The two lines are there in case you want to write something like ""For deposit only to Acct# uvwxyz"" above your signature (always a good idea if you are making the deposit by sending the paper check (with or without a deposit slip) by US mail or any other method that doesn't involve you handing the check to a bank teller). If you are wanting to get encash the check, that is, get cash in return for handing the check over to the bank instead of depositing the check in your account, then the rules are quite a bit different."
If John signs the lease he is entitled to stay there for the duration of the lease regardless of the foreclosure status.   http://www.nolo.com/legal-encyclopedia/renters-foreclosure-what-are-their-30064.html I would suggest that signing a year lease (even by email), with the plan to leave as early as possible is a good thing.  The key will be to make sure the penalty for leaving early is nothing. John doesn't know the status of the foreclosure, how long it will take, who might own afterwards and a lot of other unknowns.  The worst case is to be unsure of where you are living. Sign the lease, and be secure for one whole year that you know where you will be living.  Spend that year finding a new place to live.   If the bank doesn't offer you clear and obvious ways to submit rent, open an account AT THE BANK and deposit the rent there, on time. You are establishing credibility that you deserve to stay.  You still owe the rent, so pay it. They don't want to be your landlord, but don't let a bank bully you around.
Marriott is an international company that has developments abroad which can act as a buffer for volatility.  People aren’t going to stop traveling, they just won’t come here and Marriott can take advantage of that with their properties abroad, but there are plenty of other companies that can’t.   You may not buy it because you’re too busy sucking Trumps dick, but you’re missing one other important fact.  Guess which countries we get the most tourists from... I’ll give you a hint one of them eat lots of tacos and the other likes maple syrup. We get almost half of our tourism from Mexico and Canada.  Mexico accounts for a full quarter of our tourism.    http://tinet.ita.doc.gov/view/m-2016-I-001/table1.asp  The argument isn’t about the economy overall.  It’s about the tourism sector.  Trump is lucky that Obama set him up with a strong economy, but he still manages to threaten it.  And he’s really threatening the tourism sector of our economy.    I’m not going to hold your hand while you suck Trumps dick.  You’re going to have to pull your head out of your ass yourself.  If you want to remain skeptical it’s your right.  You can remain ignorant all you want.  After all, Trump rose to power on people’s skepticism of experts.  If that’s the road you want to follow good for you but do the rest of the country a favor and go fuck off to some deserted island where you can shoot yourself in the foot without hurting the rest of us.  This shit isn’t hard to understand.  You just can’t admit that your hero is actively fucking this country over.  Like I said, do your fellow countrymen a favor and fuck off.  The country would be much better off if all you Trump supporting idiots removed yourself from politics and stopped trying to intervene in issues you don’t understand.
"One factor to consider is timing. If you set up the automatic payments through the bank that holds the mortgage (I'll call them the ""receiving"" bank), they will typically record the transactions as occurring on the actual dates you've set up the automatic payments to occur on, which generally eliminates e.g. the risk of having late payments. By contrast, setting up auto-pay through your personal bank (the ""sending"" bank) usually amounts to, on the date you specify, your bank deducts the amount from your account and sends a check to the receiving bank (and many banks actually send this check by mail), which may result in the transaction not being credited to your mortgage until several business days later. A second consideration (and this may not be as likely to occur on a loan payment as with a utility or service) is the amount of the payment. When you set up your auto-pay through the sending bank, you explicitly instruct your bank as to the amount to send (also, if you don't have enough in your account, your bank may wait to send the bill payment until you do). This can be good if finances are tight, or if you just like having absolute control of the payment. The risk, though, is that if some circumstance increases the amount that you need to pay one month, you'll have to proactively adjust your auto-pay setting before it fires off. Whereas, if you've set the auto-pay up through the receiving bank, they would most likely submit the transaction to your bank for the higher amount automatically. I'll give an example based on something I saw fairly often when I worked for Dish Network on recovery (customers in early disconnect, the goal being to take a payment and restore service). If you had set up auto-pay through your bank based on your package price, and then the price increased by $2/month, you might not notice at first (your service stays on, and your bill doesn't have any red stamps on it), but the difference will slowly add up until it exceeds a full month's payment, at which point a late fee starts being assessed. From there, it quickly snowballs until the service is turned off.
I've been using online billpay for years, at three different banks.  Two were local (a bank and a credit union), and the other is ING Direct.  I haven't had any problems with any of them that weren't self-inflicted (forgetting to enter the bill).  The credit union's system is pretty clunky, but the other two are fine.  One thing to make sure of is to leave enough time for the bill to arrive, just like you would do if mailing a check.  Just have the bill sent a week before its due, and you should be fine.  I usually do this soon after I get the bill, so I don't forget about it.  ING will actually receive bills from some companies automatically, if you wish.  So all you need to do is go online and click pay, and it will know when the due date is and the amount to pay.  For bills that have the same amount each month (mortgage, insurance premiums, etc.), you can set it up to pay automatically each month so you don't have to do anything. Its a bit of a hassle moving banks, and reentering the account numbers, addresses, etc.  Stopping a bill is as easy as clinking delete in the online system.  My current setup is to have all my bills paid through ING, and my paycheck direct deposited.  I can transfer money to/from my local bank in a couple of days if I have checks to deposit, or to use the local ATM.   I short, I would never go back to writing paper checks.
"I have three savings accounts that are currently open in India in different banks. Is it legal to have savings accounts open while I am in the US? If you are NRI [from what you have stated you are], you cannot hold a ""Savings"" account in India. Please have the accounts converted as NRO at the earliest. It is a simple matter of contacting Bank and completing formalities with some paperwork. do I have to declare this fact in the tax filings in US given that my tax is already deducted?  Yes, interest would be taxable in US. Does my father have to declare the additional deposits? No.  Edit to reply to comment: RBI Economic Times"
I've used ING Direct for several years. Never had any problems with them. They were (and maybe still are?) ahead of the curve on security arrangements. You don't need to have a brick and mortar bank to transfer money in, but it is faster and easier if you do. (At least this is true with my mail account -- see next item.) You don't have to have an online account. You can bank entirely by mail if you want. (At least I have one account set up this way, I assume you can still open an account by mail.) They offer CDs with somewhat mediocre rates that are easy to open and fund online from your savings account. The website is relatively simple to use. I have never had any problems with transfers in or out. When you have to call, you get a human on the phone, quickly. Someone who speaks American English with reasonable diction. (At least it used to be this way, I don't think I've called them in over a year.) I'm a fan of ING, but I do wish they managed to keep their rates on top of the chief competition.