vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Paytrust seems to be the only game in town.  We've changed banks several times over the last 15 years and I can tell you that using a bank's bill pay service locks you in, big time.  I loved paytrust because I could make one change if we changed banks.  If you're using a bank directly for your bills, the ides of recreating your payee list is daunting.
"There's currently not much reason to keep around a long-term non-deductible Traditional IRA in my opinion -- a Roth IRA is almost strictly better. Think about it: a non-deductible Traditional IRA vs. a Roth IRA of the same amount. In both cases, contributions are after-tax (so no tax deduction). But when you withdraw, for the Roth IRA you don't have to pay tax, and for the non-deductible Traditional IRA, you have to pay tax on the ""earnings"". A Roth IRA can be contributed to at pretty much any income level, thanks to the backdoor Roth IRA process (which uses a temporary non-deductible Traditional IRA in the process). So there is not much reason for a long-term non-deductible Traditional IRA. As for your question, a non-deductible Traditional IRA vs. a taxable account. Well, a non-deductible Traditional IRA is contributed to with after-tax money, and taxed on the earnings only on withdrawal. So the taxation is almost identical to things like stocks and homes, where the gain is not realized until the thing is sold. However, compared to things like savings accounts and bonds, where you get taxed on the interest yearly, it is much better. Every time you get taxed on gains like this, it is taxing gains earned from after-tax money, so if you think of an amount of money as being equivalent to the amount of money it grows to over time (time value of money), then it is taxing money that is (or grown from money that is) already taxed. So it is better to have this only happen at the end at withdrawal than every year."
"&gt; people these days believe income is a human right or something.  I believe a full day's work for a living wage is a right, yes.  Do you think a full day's work for a non-living wage is moral?  &gt; if you are not happy with the amount of income you currently make, stop using the internet to bitch about it and use it to better and add value to yourself.  Your argument ignores the possibility that the game is rigged.  People can do things to get a better life in the Hunger Games but that doesn't mean they are fair/moral or part of a society I want to live in.  &gt; The idea of ""a fair share of income"" teeters on communism, if you ask me.  In our society we need farm workers, ditch diggers, security guards, and dishwashers.  It seems fair to me that if society needs these positions filled then they should pay a wage that allows these workers to be part of the society they enable. I think doing anything else is barbaric."
You should simply withdraw the excess contributions by April 15. You have until October 15 if you go through the extra step of filing an amended tax return.  https://investor.vanguard.com/ira/excess-contribution It unnecessary for you to pay the 6% penalty. You should wait until you can estimate your 2016 accurately before making your 2016 contribution. If your income is too high for the Roth IRA, you might instead pursue the backdoor Roth IRA strategy:  https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Backdoor_Roth_IRA
Your dividend should show up in one of a few methods: (1) Cash in your trading account (2) A check mailed to you (3) A deposit to a linked bank account (4) As additional new shares in the stock, as the result of a DRIP setup.
"I definitely can recommend you a site called babypips. Their beginner course section is great to get a good overview what you ""could"" do in FOREX trading. For starting out I definitely recommend a dummy account! (NEVER use real money in the beginning!)"
"I've done exactly what you say at one of my brokers.  With the restriction that I have to deposit the money in the ""right"" way, and I don't do it too often.  The broker is meant to be a trading firm and not a currency exchange house after all.  I usually do the exchange the opposite of you, so I do USD -> GBP, but that shouldn't make any difference. I put ""right"" in quotes not to indicate there is anything illegal going on, but to indicate the broker does put restrictions on transferring out for some forms of deposits.    So the key is to not ACH the money in, nor send a check, nor bill pay it, but rather to wire it in.  A wire deposit with them has no holds and no time limits on withdrawal locations.  My US bank originates a wire, I trade at spot in the opposite direction of you (USD -> GBP), wait 2 days for the trade to settle, then wire the money out to my UK bank.  Commissions and fees for this process are low.  All told, I pay about $20 USD per xfer and get spot rates, though it does take approx 3 trading days for the whole process (assuming you don't try to wait for a target rate but rather take market rate.)"
"I feel for your situation.  I'm in a similar boat with ""high"" income yet little left over at the end of the month.  My wife and I are steadily making major adjustments to fix that. While reading your story, one thing that jumped out at me is that 3.5 years is not really a long time.  So, the moment those credit cards are paid off (and other debts for that matter), DO NOT let that $1,400 return into your finances!  Tuck it away someplace else and forget about it, as if it doesn't exist.  You're already in the habit of doing without. Keep the habit.  Save the money. From the first day that my wife recently took a new job, we put 25% of her paycheck into a checking account that's hard to access. It goes right in, direct deposit, and we never even see it. To this day, we don't even know the exact dollar amount going in... ...the crazy part is, we don't miss it as much as I thought we would!  In fact, I just got a raise and I'm going to start forwarding the pay difference into that account, as well. At the end of the day, we all make our spending choices based on how much money is available.  It never fails: with more income comes more ""worthwhile"" expenses. My advice in a nutshell: Over the next few years, whenever your income increases, don't change your habits to match! That's our plan. Slowly but surely, it's working... (I Hope that helps in some way)"
"Keep in mind, there are too many variables to address in a single post. I could (and might) write a full book on the topic. One simple way to comprehend your perceived observation. In the 25% bracket, you have $1000 of income and two choices. Net out $750, and deposit to Roth, or deposit the full $1000 to the traditional IRA or 401(k). Sufficient time passes for the investment to grow 10 fold. For what it's worth, 8% at 30 years will do that. The Roth is now worth $7500 tax free. The traditional 401(k) is worth $10000 but subject to tax. At 25%, we're at the same $7500. For those looking to invest more than a gross $18,000, the Roth flavor is an effective $24,000, as post tax, this is $18,000. I wrote a bit more on this in the whimsically titled The Density of Your IRA. This is really a top 10%er issue, as it takes quite a bit of income for the $23,000 combined IRA and 401(k) limits to be a problem. In my writing, the larger case to be made is for taking advantage of the tax rate difference between the time of deposit and withdrawal. A look at the 2016 tax rates is in order. Let's stick with 25% while working. Now, at retirement, but before social security, as that's another story, the couple has $20,600 in standard deduction and exemption, and both the 10 and 15% brackets to enjoy. Ignoring any other deductions, potential credits, etc, let's look at a gross $80,000 withdrawal. The numbers happen to work out to an average 10%, with the couple being in a marginal 15% bracket. A full 25% or $20,000 tax would be the break-even to the ""same bracket in/out"" analysis, so this produces a $12,000 benefit. This issue is often treated as if there were 2 points in time, the deposit, and the withdrawal. For most people, that may be the case.
What is my best bet with the 401K? I know very little about retirement plans and don't plan to ever touch this money until I retire but could this money be of better use somewhere else?  You can roll over a 401k into an IRA. This lets you invest in other funds and stocks that were not available with your 401k plan. Fidelity and Vanguard are 2 huge companies that offer a number of investment opportunities. When I left an employer that had the 401k plan with Fidelity, I was able to rollover the investments and leave them in the existing mutual funds (several of the funds have been closed to new investors for years). Usually, when leaving an employer, I have the funds transferred directly to the place my IRA is at - this avoids tax penalties and potential pitfalls.   The student loans.... pay them off in one shot?  If the interest is higher than you could earn in a savings account, then it is smarter to pay them off at once. My student loans are 1.8%, so I can earn more money in my mutual funds. I'm suspicious and think something hinky is going to happen with the fiscal cliff negotiations, so I'm going to be paying off my student loans in early 2013.  Disclaimer: I have IRA accounts with both Fidelity and Vanguard. My current 401k plan is with Vanguard.
Duffbeer703 covers most everything. The entire point of an emergency fund IS for it to be liquid.  Now I do understand (if you feel your situation requires over 6 months of living expenses): That is a lot of money to have sitting in a statement savings account! Under no circumstances should you take any sort of risk with an emergency fund. However, you COULD do this: Invest some of the assets in a six month, 1 year or 2 year CD if returns were enough to be worthwhile.  If you don't need the money, then fine, great. But if you do, you can break a Certificate of Deposit before maturity. There will be a penalty fee. You might lose interest too. But you'll have access to your money, no liquidity risk. So maybe you could put most, say 60% of your rainy day funds in truly liquid assets. The remainder could be in longer term CD's which you hopefully won't need because you'll be back to non rainy day living again.
This would depend on what transfer methods your Forex broker allows. Most will allow you to have a check or wire transfer sent...best thing would be to call/email your broker and ask how to get the money into your account. Keep in mind, many brokers will force you to withdraw using the same funding method you used to deposit, up to the amount of the deposit. For example, if I fund my Forex account with $500 on a credit card and make $500 profit, I now have $1,000 sitting in my Forex account. The broker will force me to withdraw $500 as a credit to my credit card before allowing me to use another withdrawal method. This is an anti-money laundering precaution.
&gt;A demand deposit cannot be lent out without inherent risk of systematic banking collapse  Actually, they can be and this happens every day. Inside every bank is a function called the treasury which is tasked with managing this operation - among other things. I have worked in a bank treasury as a quantitative analyst so I'm happy to answer any more specific questions you might have regarding how we manage liquidity.
It seems to be that your main point is this: No matter what, my chances cannot be worse than random and if my trading system has an edge that is greater than the percentage of the transaction that is transaction cost, then I am probabilistically likely to make a profit? In general, yes, that is true, but... Consider this very bad strategy: Buy one share of stock and sell it one minute later, and repeat this every minute of the day. Obviously you would bleed your account dry with fees. However, even this horrible strategy still meets your criteria because: if this bad strategy had an edge beyond the transaction fees you would likely still make a profit. In other words, your conclusion reduces to an uninteresting statement: If there were no transactions fees, then if your trading system has an edge then you will likely make a profit. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but IMHO, that statement, and others made in the question are just obvious things stated in convoluted ways. I don't want to discourage you from thinking about these things though. I personally really enjoy these type of thought experiments. I just feel you missed the mark on this one...
With a Roth IRA, you can withdraw the contributions at any time without penalty as long as you don't withdraw the earnings/interest. There are some circumstances where you can withdraw the earnings such as disability (and maybe first home). Also, the Roth IRA doesn't need to go through your employer and I wouldn't do it through your employer. I have mine setup through Fidelity though I'm not sure if they have any guaranteed 3% return unless it was a CD. All of mine is in stocks. Your wife could also setup a Roth IRA so over 2 years, you could contribute $20,000. If I was you, I would just max out any 403-b matches (which you surely are at 25% of gross income) and then save my down payment money in a normal money market/savings account. You are doing good contributing almost 25% to the 403-b. There are also some income limitations on Roth IRAs. I believe for a married couple, it is $160k.
How easy is it to take out your money? To they offer any trading? Do you have to put more money up on your own to trade with?  This seems pretty sketchy. I am currently working at a prop trading firm and although some sketchy firms require you to make a deposit, most legit ones do not. Not to mention their commissions are incredibly high (I interviewed at another sketchy firm but only charges a couple cents for commission).   &gt;most of the time you get rebates on them  If it is not explicitly stated in the contract of how they decide your rebates than don't expect much. Most of the trading industry is build around taking advantage of people where people's word soon becomes meaningless unless it is in writing.
I work in Reserves management at a Central Bank. We work more or less the same hours...but the content of the day is very different. Trading is usually wrapped up by 11-12pm. Then I have a ton a time in the afternoon to hit up the gym, attend economist presentations, grab a lunch, or grab beer with colleagues. Generally very relaxed....very against the industry
I think your underestimating what a 50k single influx of workers can do for an area long term.  More people to a well developed city is good for the city. Detroit for example is structured to handled 1.5 million, even though it only has 750k now. 50k employees means 400k new local jobs supporting those main ones. 400k new people would finally allow the city to once again be a proper city and metro area. Aka wealth concentration in the city, less concentration on the exterior. In the detroit metro area it gets wealthier as you go further from the city.   I dont see how this is in line with Brazil's corrupt class structure at all. Some of these cities need a golden ticket to fix the suburban flight that happened post ww2 and especially after the interstate system.
&gt;A lot can happen to a stock's price in 1 hour   A lot happens to the stock price in one hour because lot of trading takes place in one hour, not because of material news. If 30 days seems excessive, make the rule that the stock should be held for 1 day.  Point is, 1 hour seems convenient to small investors because it facilitates day trading and 30 days seems excessive for the same reason. What is good for the goose is good for the gander.  I abhor HFT and think the advantage unfair but am opposed to banning it for pecuniary reasons. Such is life in a capitalist economy. We pay the price for our freedoms.
Where do you get your data feed from. I'm a software developer and I will be looking to do some light trading in the future. I just have no idea where I can get a streaming feed.  I think if I code something I will get a better feel of the markets. I like the idea of trading in stocks. Although, I will have to see at a later stage.
You mentioned depositing the check and then sending a personal check. Be sure to account for time, since any deposit over $10,000 the money will be made available in increments, so it may take 10-14 days to get the full amount in your account before you could send a personal check. I would not recommend this option regardless, but if you do, just a heads up.
It's a little extra hassle come tax-time if you have a distribution to account for, as you'd be required to file Form 8606. If you pay for tax-preparation the extra fees could easily wipe out any interest earned.  Roth IRA savings accounts don't seem to earn much interest, so while you could come out slightly ahead with this approach, I don't think it's worth it. I prefer to keep a portion of my emergency fund in an online savings account (0.75% interest), and another portion in CD's (2.10% interest) through the same bank.
They gave advanced notice, so when the date is solidified, no one can say they didn't know anything.  It's not as if the money is in limbo until then, it's still at fidelity. I am certain there will come time in '17 when you get a 30-60 day notice that the move will happen.  There are rules that employers must deposit the money within X days of withholding from your check. But I don't believe there's anything against warning you too far in advance that a change in provider is planned.
I know this question is old. I also have a kotak trading account. There is no way to get the dividend report from the trading account. The dividend is directly credited to your bank account by the companies through registrar. There is no involvement of trading account in there. So the best possible way will be to get the bank account statement for the financial year and filter out the dividend transactions manually. I know it is tedious, but there doesn't seem to be any easy way out there for this. Few days back I started using portfolio manager provided by economic times. It lists all the dividend earned in my stocks automatically.
You're extremely fortunate to have $50k in CDs, no debt, and $3800 disposable after food and rent. Congrats. Here's how I would approach it. If you see yourself getting into a home in the next couple of years, stay safe and liquid. CDs (depending on the duration) fit that description. Because you have disposable income and you're young, you should be contributing to a Roth IRA. This will build in value and compound over your lifetime, so that when you're in your 70s you'll actually have a retirement.  Financial planners love life insurance because that's how they make all their money. I have whole life insurance because its cash value will be part of my retirement. It may also cover my wife if I ever decide to get married. It may or may not make sense for you now depending on how soon you want to buy a home and home expensive they are in your zip code.  Higher risk, higher reward- you can count on that. Keep the funds in the United States and don't try to get into any slick financial moves.  If you have a school in town, see if you can take an Intro to Financial Planning class. It's extremely helpful for anyone with these kinds of questions.
In today's market being paid 1% for risk and free access money is pretty darn good.  If 50k is what you feel comfortable with an emergency fund, then you are doing a fine enough job. To me that is a lot to keep in an emergency fund, however several factors play into this: We both drive older cars, so I also keep enough money around to replace one of them.   Considering all that I keep a specific amount in savings that for me earns .89%.  Some of that is kept in our checking accounts which earns nothing. You have to go through some analysis of your own situation and keep that amount where it is. If that amount is less than 50K, you have some money to play with.  Here are some options:
"GreenMatt - this is a good question, and a question I have asked about whether to invest in a Roth IRA, or a traditional IRA. This is my take on the picture, I'm not sure about your tax situation and how much you'd have to pay for each conversion you did, whether you have extra money to pay those taxes, etc. In my opinion I don't think it would be a good idea to use your 401(k) principal to pay taxes, but to have the extra money to pay these when rolling over so you don't lose any interest, especially since you're near the ""end"" of your ""snowball"" effect with interest in your retirement account. Here is a resource to consider. Also, another thing to consider that I don't really see much of on here is inflation. If you're going to be in the same tax bracket as you are now, and if whatever you're contributing to your 401(k) or traditional IRA is NOT bumping you down in the 15% bracket, then I would suggest doing a ROTH IRA. I say this because to me, when I retire, I would have rather paid my taxes throughout the years (I'm 23 and in 25% marginal tax bracket) in a ROTH IRA and pay nothing when I'm withdrawing in 30 years, factors people forget to consider are that the Cost of Living is going to be MUCH MUCH higher for me down the road, and the cost of sending a child to school is going to be much higher as well. Since your child is young, consider this site for the cost of a college education for your child. This is comparing the average cost of education for someone attending college in 2015 versus 2033 (a child born IN 2015). While this seems drastic, and there could be a lot of different things that happen by that time, it's a decent illustration. While the website provided certainly isn't validated by the DoE, I have read multiple articles about this, and they are all very similar. Again, other things could happen between now and your child's college career, but if college becomes ""free"" we're paying for it, and if it's not free and raises at historical rates you're paying for it.
I stopped trading in my IRA and gave it pro to manage it. He beats SP500 that i could never do.
A CFD broker will let you open a trade on margin as long as your account balance is more than the margin required on all your open trades. If the required margin increases within a certain percentage of your account balance, you will get a margin call. If you then don't deposit more funds or close losing trades out, the broker will close all your trades. Note: Your account balance is the remaining funds you have left to open new trades with. I always use stop loss orders with all my open trades, and because of this my broker reduces the amount of margin required on each trade. This allows me to have more open trades at the one time without increasing my funds. Effects of a Losing Trade on Margin Say I have an account balance of $2,000 and open a long trade in a share CFD of 1,000 CFDs with a share price of $10 and margin of 10%. The face value of the shares would be $10,000, but my initial margin would be $1,000 (10% of $10,000). If I don't place a stop loss and the price falls to $9, I would have lost $1,000 and my remaining margin would now be $900 (10% of $9,000). So I would have $100 balance remaining in my account. I would probably receive a margin call to deposit more funds in or close out my trade. If I don't respond the broker will close out my position before my balance gets to $0. If instead I placed a stop loss at say $9.50, my initial margin might be reduced to $500. As the price drops to $9.60 I would have lost $400 and my remaining margin would now only be $100, with my account balance at $1,500. When the price drops to $9.50 I will get stopped out, my trade will be closed and I would have lost $500, with my account balance still at $1,500. Effects of a Winning Trade on Margin Say I have the same account balance as before and open the same trade but this time the price moves up.