vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"For starters like some other people have said, just talk to someone in IB and get some advice on how to break in, and what it's really like. I've spoken to people in IB and learned that it's really just not going to be for me...In response to your four questions, 1. Get your degree at DePaul and wait a few years to get your masters. You don't need an MBA for IB and it'll be a lot harder to go to a prestigious grad school without significant work experience and a solid network 1. It definitely wouldn't hurt for you to double major in CS, but if you do, you're going to have to keep your grades up, and still stay sharp in both majors. You don't want to have a 3.0 and have both, it'll kill your chances. You're going to need at LEAST a 3.8, if you're under that it's gonna be a lot harder to get anywhere. 1. If there are other industries you want to turn to then sure! I used to be interested in IB but now I'm leaning more towards private equity, and working with Reg D. clients, 1031 exchanges etc. 1. NETWORK!!!! If you aren't already, seriously get out there and network like hell. But don't just cold call random people, you really need to make meaningful connections with people, and continue to stay in contact with them. You can also learn a lot from WSO and various IB books, guides etc, I have a bunch of that stuff on my google drive from a friend if you want it. And some general tidbits **Don't stress about the school you go to**...going to a prestigious school really does help, but if you work hard enough, make the right connections and are good at what you do, you can land a role in IB. I know several people that have gone into IB from my school and I would consider us maybe a Grade C state school.
I would just do a loan for a different number of years on your new mortgage. For example, if you just spent 10 years paying off your first house, then for your second, close the first mortgage upon selling, and then open a 20 or 25 year mortgage and the loan end date as well as the payment should remain similar. This would be more do-able if you paid ahead a little to compensate all the early on interest you have to eat. So if you want to finish around the same time, you could look into doing that since you'll have more equity to make a stronger down payment.
You are grossly wrong.   COL differences are nowhere that big.  Especially for a younger person, for which buying a house is not on the table.  I've done the math - I had to, as I received a bay area offer.    The cost of most of the things you spend money on (travel, household items, material goods) will hardly change.  It's only housing, which is not a big enough of a expense to come even close to your outlandish claim.   I'm tired of people who have no cold hard facts and simply parrot what they've heard elsewhere regarding this situation.  If you don't know what your talking about, it's best you keep your mouth closed.
A lot of this example is idealistic and the analysis stops right at the point the loan is issued.    If you use generous interest rates you could just skirt by the bare minimum debt service coverage ratio for an asset-backed loan if you found a lender to approve it.  However, he doesn't address any of the issues of running a business that will be insolvent if expenses rise more than about ~2% above the monthly average in a given month (those pesky 3-pay period months; equipment repairs; heating/cooling in winter/summer; etc.), or you have a similarly small sag in sales (selling dirtbikes in January?).    Most companies doing LBOs have skin in it, and a plan to make the company more valuable, not run it exactly the way it is. This allows them to either acquire more debt capital than just a percentage of the collateral -- and so they can finance capital projects to improve the business, deal with fluctuations in cash flow, and/or implement plans to increase the free cash flows above how it was running previously.  This site's advice is a bit like teaching someone the basics of how to take off in an airplane, and then telling them they're ready to fly.
Math and Econ double here.  At a BB now.  Will heading back to get MS in computational (quant) finance soon.  Here's my advice.  Learn the following:  * Differential Equations,  * Linear Algebra,  * Numerical Analysis,  * Stochastic Calculus.  The statistics used are more complex than econometrics.  Econometrics is a very vague and rough introduction to Linear Algebra and mediocre (at best) depth in statistics.  Statistics you use are not going to be basic business stat.  It will be stochastic calculus which is why you need to have a firm grasp of multivariate calculus [calc 3] and proficiency with MatLab, Maple, or another equivalent.  Every info session I've attended regarding MS Finance programs has the expectation of a coursework background that has reached at least Calc 3 and Linear Algebra.  Some programs will admit based on GMAT/GRE quant score but will require you to take those math courses in first semester (and thus sacrifice a possible dual program option and limit your concentrations).  Other programs aren't as lenient... Just depends on the school you plan on attending.  As per your question, calculus comes into play in just about every single real world valuation you will do, regardless the product.  **edit:** and down votes for real world advice?  nice r/finance
"I don't know how many people ""a ton"" is, but if you are getting more than, say, 6 people who are qualified to rent, you've priced it too low. Better to ask for $1200, and have a potential tenant haggle or ask you to reduce the price than to have 6 people want it for $900.  It's worth it to run a credit report, and let that help you choose. I agree with Victor, a bidding war is appropriate for a house sale, not rental apartments.  You didn't mention your country, but I'd be sure to find out the local laws regarding tenant choice. You may not (depending where you are) discriminate based on gender, sexual orientation, marital status, race, or religion."
"Hey Ly Sok,   Do you do the standard practice of basically forcing people to go to several random stops, like a suit or jewelry shop, before taking people to their destination?   If so, I highly recommend you just charge more and stop doing it. Tourists shouldn't have to spend several days of their vacation figuring out they didn't need to waste time. From my trips to that area the single biggest factor of using a ""tuk tuk"" service was if they made those annoying stops. I get it, the shops pay for fuel, but I'd rather pay you more (it's still very cheap by $USD standards) than to waste time by making what should have a 5min ride into a 45min ride. There's nothing more valuable to me using vacation or a business visit than my time. Especially if in running late to something, heck I'd rather overpay a taxi and arrive on time.   So my advice, if you do those stops, make it very clear right when the passenger gets in. Don't try to trick them, people aren't stupid. Let them know they can pay less and spend time going to places you're basically marketing for, or pay more and get to their destination right directly."
"Paypal forbids using their credit card service to ""give yourself a cash advance or help others to do so"". For small ammounts you may get away with it but pushing $10K through a PayPal account is going to raise red flags. In the USA it seems that some cards allow balance transfers from other types of loan while others are restricted to credit cards only. So that is a possibility. Another option can be to find a card with a good deal on purchases. Then move your regular purchases to the card and use the money you would normally have spent on purchases to pay off the other loan. Remember credit cards can be either a very cheap way to borrow or a very expensive way. Which one they are depends on how good you are at negotiating the traps they set up for you. If you do use a credit card deal make sure you  Is it overall a viable option? That depends on the details which are not specified in your hypothetical scenario incluing the persons credit rating , what the interest is like on the existing loan and what the expected time to repay the debt is."
No credit card company would ever give a card with either no credit limit or that was not in credit (for prepaid cards) because they would earn no money from it. The company's income is entirely derived from fees that they charge you for balances and interest on those balances so a 0 limit card would be worthless to them. Getting a prepaid card and letting the balance hit 0 might be a way around this but the fees that you will be charged , and will become a debt in your name, when the billing system tries to take the first paid month's cost from the card and fails will be exorbitant. They may go so far as dwarfing the actual cost but the one thing that they will certainly do is lower your credit rating so this is not a good idea.
You sound like you're in enviable shape.  This is good. Look for deals.  There are tons of people in over their heads (unlike yourself) and they'll be foreclosed on if they don't get out.  You're in a position to buy from a distressed seller.  Assuming your credit rating is good, you can get a good loan for the balance. Time is on your side.  Don't rush.  Look for a great deal.  My feeling is that the deals will only get better for the next year or two.
I suggest you to apply for a car loan in other banks like DCU or wells fargo, you might get the loan with not the best rate, but after a year you can refinance your loan with a better rate in a different bank since you are going to have a better credit as long as you make your payments in time. I bought a Jetta 2014 last year, my loan is from Wells Fargo. Like you, my credit was low before the loan because I didn't have too much credit history. They gave me the loan with a 8.9% of interest.
Remember that due to inflation you are paying back the loan with cheaper dollars in the future.  If there are no gimmicks in the loan like early payment penalties, or must pay by a certain date or that the credit was for a store that sold the products at a higher price than you could get elsewhere then you are not just getting free money they are paying you to take the money.
You might also want to talk directly to a bank. If your credit report is clean, they may have some discretion in making the loan.  Note - the 'normal' fully qualified loan has two thresholds, 28% (of monthly income) for housing costs, 36% for all debt servicing. A personal, disclosed loan from a friend/family which is not secured against the house, would count as part of the other debt, as would a credit card. While I don't recommend using a credit card for this purpose, the debt fits in that 28-36 gap.  As Kevin points out below, not all paths are equally advisable. Nor are rules of thumb always true. Not having the OP's full details, income, assets, price of house, etc, this is just a list of things to consider. The use of a 401(k) loan in the US can be a great idea for some, bad mistake for others. This format doesn't make it easy to go into great detail, and I'm sure the 401(k) loan issue has been asked and answered in other questions. With respect to Kevin, if he wrote 'usually', I'd agree, but never say 'never.'
"Yeah I understand how much power a downgrade can have on a nations access to the capital markets and can thus cripple and slow down economic growth but the call to micromanage the rating agencies more is a bit much. The last thing the financial system needs is another 3 letter acronym agency sending in some official to watch every move of the analysts at these firms.   The point of there being more than one rating agency is that you have multiple opinions and they average out to give you a realistic opinion, Standard and Poor's, Moody's, and Fitch don't have a conference call every time a deal comes through the door ""Hey guys what are we rating this at today"" they all do their own thing.  I would be interested to see situations in which all the CRAs gave a lower credit rating then a debt issuer actually deserved."
In USA, if you take a personal loan, you will probably get rates between 8-19%. It is better that you take a loan in India, as home loan rates are about 10.25%(10.15% is the lowest offered by SBI).  This might not be part of the answer, but it is safer to hold USD than Indian rupees as India is inflating so much that the value of the rupee is always going lower(See 1970 when you could buy 1 dollar for 7 rupees). There might be price fluctuations where the rupee gains against the dollar, but in the long run, I think the dollar has much more value(Just a personal opinion). And since you are taking a home loan, I am assuming it will be somewhere between 10-20 years. So, you would actually save a lot more on the depreciating rupee, than you would pay interest. Yes, if you can get a home loan in USA at around 4%, it would definitely be worth considering, but I doubt they will do that since they would not know the actual value of the property. Coming to answer your question, getting a personal loan for 75k without keeping any security is highly unlikely. What you can do since you have a good credit score, is get a line of credit for 20-25k as a backup, and use that money to pay your EMI only when absolutely required. That way, you build your credit in the United States, and have a backup for around 2 years in India in case you fail to pay up. Moreover, Line of credits charge you interest only on the amount, you use. Cheers!
Sounds feasible.  I make $45000 a year, with two car payments, credit card and student loan debt.  Also, my wife doesn't work.  I was approved for a $116000 house with a USDA loan.  There are limits or how much debt you can have when applying for a USDA (sorry, I can't remember off the top of my head) and you'll also be getting the house inspected under different regulations.   For instance, we couldn't get approved until the seller put a handrail on a set of exterior stairs.  That regulation is specific to USDA along with a few others. I'm living in southern Indiana and this just happened a couple months ago for us. Make sure you have some money set aside for various things like a lawn mower and if the siding blows off the night after you move in (yup, that happened).  Also, shop around for homeowner's insurance.  We did some hunting, and we found a provider who was willing to price match and ended up saving some money on our car insurance as well.
fine because the application was declined anyway. No it isn't fine. Credit card applications generally need a hard pull, so get it rectified. Firstly check if an application was really made on your behalf. Some companies use this ploy to pull you into a scheme of making you apply for a credit card. Secondly call up the credit card company and ask them about the details of who had made the application as you haven't done so and inform them that it was a fraudulent application. It might be somebody is using your personal details to do a identity theft in your name. Thirdly get in touch with the credit rating firms and see if a check has been made on your credit report. Dispute it if you see a check in your record and have it removed from your report. If you subscribe to credit agency, get the identity theft protection, helps you in such cases. And finally keep a diligent eye on your credit records from now on. Once bitten, twice shy.
I personally spoke with a Questrade agent about my question. To make a long story short: in a margin account, you are automatically issued a loan when buying U.S. stock with a Canadian money. Whereas, in a registered account (e.g. RRSP), the amount is converted on your behalf to cover the debit balance. Me: What happens if I open an account and I place an order for U.S. stocks   with Canadian money? Is the amount converted at the time of transfer?   How does that work? Agent: In a margin account, you are automatically issued a loan   for a currency you do not have, however, if you have enough buying   power, it will go through. The interest on the overnight balance is   calculated daily and is charged on a monthly basis. We do not convert   funds automatically in a margin account because you can have a debit   cash balance. Agent: In a registered account, the Canada Revenue Agency does not allow a debit   balance and therefore, we must convert your funds on your behalf   to cover the debit balance if possible. We convert automatically   overnight for a registered account. Agent: For example, if you buy U.S. equity you will need USD to buy it,   and if you only have CAD, we will loan you USD to cover for that   transaction. For example, if you had only $100 CAD and then wanted to   buy U.S. stock worth $100 USD, then we will loan you $100 USD to   purchase the stock. In a margin account we will not convert the funds   automatically. Therefore, you will remain to have a $100 CAD credit and   a $100 USD debit balance (or a loan) in your account. Me: I see, it means the longer I keep the stock, the higher interest   will be? Agent: Well, yes, however, in a registered account there will be not   be any interest since we convert your funds, but in a margin account, there will   be interest until the debit balance is covered, or you can manually   convert your funds by contacting us.
"You make a good point, it's practically another ""pump and dump"" scheme for them no matter what actually happens to Bitcoin.  And I find the overall increase in debt in US to be an ongoing concern for the US markets. Until Moody's gives us back are old credit rating I'm not going to hold out high-hopes for an improvement."
For questions 1 and 2. 1) If you are packing the loans into a CDO, they are being sold on the open market. Once it achieves a AAA rating, as most did even though they were mostly subprime, alt a, or arm, it is sold and shipped off the originator's books (While the originator of the CDO collects X% in fees) Basically how the originator makes their money is by X amount of CDOs they sell. There was no incentive to pick and choose the best borrowers to sell a loan to because how the CDOs were sold they achieved the best rating regardless of the borrowers credit risk. Due to this model, people are going to try and get as many people into the homes and sell the CDO asap. This caused questionable lending practices to result, NINJA (no income, no job, no assets) loans, manipulating borrowers income, assets, etc. Things that could be changed to help not have this occur again: a) Feds monetary policy was pretty meh during this period, due to low interest rates the banks had pretty much an endless supply of money and when all the reasonable ventures dried up they had to explore other opportunities to lend. b) Ratings agencies need an overhaul in how they receive their commission, preferably they should be being paid by the investor not the person issuing the security. This will help to eliminate the bias that results. c) Having X% (2-5) remain on the institutions books who created the CDO will help to make them responsibly lend. This is because if they are required to have it remain on their books, they will make better longer term decisions in who to lend to.
The market moves faster than ratings agencies.  Everyday the market is trying to figure out the true value of Assets - Liabilities and thus its overall equity value.  The financial crisis illustrated this perfectly when Bear Sterns got stuck in a liquidity trap.  It's MBS(CDO) was still highly rated, likewise its overall credit rating was sound, however in reality the value of assets were much higher due to coming default, credit providers realized assets Bear had posted as collateral were falling in value quickly.  This started the death spiral, or feedback loop in which it isn't clear if the tail wagged the dog or the dog wagged the tail, but as equity value fell Bear could no longer get access to credit markets to fund daily operations, once it got margin called and couldn't pay, it was all over.  When it was sold to JPM, they basically stole the entire company at a fire sale price, everyone knew they were getting a deal, as reflected in the post buyout price jump of JPM stock.    So in a technical sense you are right, they have nothing to do with each other.  But in a practical sense as we see equity value collapse we are approaching bankruptcy, and thus default, and credit ratings should represent likelihood of default so the two should have a positive correlation to one another, assuming equity value is the 'true value'.
"I think you underestimate the power politics and favoratism play in teacher ratings and the impact of local school systems.  Until/unless the us moves to a national system then the notion of ""good"" and ""bad"" teachers is entirely up to the officials who oversee the teacher and thus more a matter of politics than any sort of absolute rating.  Indeed I'd suggest a quantiative rating is not only infeasible but impossible."
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Yeah it was a mix between the issuing agencies and the credit agencies. If the credit agencies didnt rate them as AAA then the financial institutions would just go to the other agency. So there was a conflict of interest in rating them higher. There was mismanagement on both sides of the fence and when the CDOs started to default it created a forced selling environment where people HAD to sell their CDOs/stocks at a steep discount to get enough liquidity to pay their own mortgages.