vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
“Chase’s tellers do not have the authority to close an account…” That’s a “truthy” bit of bullshit. Yes, a teller themselves do not have the authority to close an account. But if you are the owner of the account and you state to the teller that you would like to withdraw all of your money into a cashier’s check so as to close the account they cannot refuse you. Since they fed you this nonsense, they might play some delaying tactics like calling a manager and having them talk to you tough the window and such. But just stand your ground and state you would like to close the account and withdraw all funds. Now if they were extra slimy and if you were to withdraw all funds but they let the zero balance float for a bit so they could claim a fee on you, bullshit once again. You should take any notice of fees coupled with a dated receipt showing the date you withdrew funds, go to the branch and complain to the manager right away. State clearly you will not pay any fees and you would like written verification that your account is closed. Also—and this goes without saying and is implied above—but be sure to keep copies of all if your receipts and transactions. If they state they want to hold onto something, demand they make a copy. And for your own safety/sanity keep your own backup copies somewhere safe at home. All of that said, I have seen modern consumer bankers really act like a bunch of slimeballs in the past decade or so, but generally this has still been an exception to the rule. The reality is if you do not want to have your money in their bank it’s in their best interest to let go of you as soon as possible; especially if you have a small amount of money such as $1,500 at stake. Remember your rights as a consumer, remember it’s your money and remember—and remind them—that you can report them if they deny you reasonable access to your funds.
First, as Dheer mentioned above, there is no right answer as investment avenues for a person is dicteted by many subjective considerations. Given that below a few of my thoughts (strictly thoughts): 1) Have a plan for how much money you would need in next 5-7 years, one hint is, do you plan you buy a house, car, get married ... Try to project this requirement 2) Related to the above, if you have some idea on point 1, then it would be possible for you to determine how much you need to save now to achieve the above (possibly with a loan thrown in). It will also give you some indication as to where and how much of your current cash holding that you should invest now 3) From an investment perspective there are many instruments, some more risky some less. The exact mix of instruments that you should consider is based on many things, one among them is your risk apetite and fund requirement projections 4) Usually (not as a rule of thumb) the % of savings corresponding to your age should go into low risk investments and 100-the % into higher risk investment 5) You could talk to some professional invetment planners, all banks offer the service Hope this helps, I reiterate as Dheer did, there is truely no right answer for your question all the answers would be rather contextual.
First, if your account has been closed you should not be able to use your debit card in any format.  As you mentioned that you are able to use that so your back account is active. So this indicates it is a scam In case account is closed, bank confirms your address and will send you a cheque for the amount in your account.  Don't worry. You money will never be lost
If you receive a loan from your parents, it is treated legally just as a loan fom a bank, or from any private person with spare money. You don't pay tax on a loan that you get from your bank (or your parents), and the bank (or your parents) don't pay tax when you repay the loan. If you pay interest, the parents will have to pay tax on the interest, just like they would have to pay tax if the money was in their own bank account.  I would advice both you and your parents to make sure that a contract is signed saying that this is a loan, and how it is repaid, and that you follow the contract. Otherwise, if you or your parents treat the loan as an actual present, then you might have to pay tax, because there is tax due on gifts. And you might get a penalty for trying to avoid tax by declaring the gift as a loan. So pay the money back! Only up to £3,000 in cash gifts that a person gives each year is tax free, but the parents can use any unused money from last year (so they can give a gift of £6,000 if they gave nothing in the previous year), and it is per parent, so both the mother and father can make a gift.
As it is a cheque I don't think you can deposit online. It seems that most the banks here charge a flat fee. Bank of Queensland charges $45 plus whatever the FX rate and fees are at the time. I think most of the banks have a clearance period of up to 28 days from when you deposit the cheque to when the funds clear and you could use them. If you want a cheaper and quicker option maybe try to have the USD funds sent electronically to the Australian bank account you choose.
Every bank and credit union in the US has a Deposit Agreement and Disclosures document, Bank of America is no different. Our general policy is to make funds from your cash and check deposits available to you no later than the first business day after the day of your deposit. However, in some cases we place a hold on funds that you deposit by check. A hold results in a delay in the availability of these funds. that sounds great but ... For determining the availability of your deposits, every day is a business day, except Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays. If you make a deposit on a business day that we are open at one of our financial centers before 2:00 p.m. local time, or at one of our ATMs before 5:00 p.m. local time in the state where we maintain your account, we consider that day to be the day of your deposit. However, if you make a deposit after such times, or on a day when we are not open or that is not a business day, we consider that the deposit was made on the next business day we are open. Some locations have different cutoff times. so if you deposit a check on Friday afternoon, the funds are generally available on Tuesday. but not always... In some cases, we will not make all of the funds that you deposit by check available to you by the first business day after the day of your deposit. Depending on the type of check that you deposit, funds may not be available until the second business day after the day of your deposit. The first $200 of your deposits, however, may be available no later than the first business day after the day of your deposit. If we are not going to make all of the funds from your deposit available by the first business day after the day of your deposit, we generally notify you at the time you make your deposit. We also tell you when the funds will be available. Ok what happens when the funds are available... In many cases, we make funds from your deposited checks available to you sooner than we are able to collect the checks. This means that, from time to time, a deposited check may be returned unpaid after we made the funds available to you.
I assume that you are a citizen of India, and are what Indian law calls a NRI (NonResident Indian) and thus entitled to operate an NRE (NonResident External) account in India. You can deposit US dollars into the NRE account, but the money is converted to Indian Rupees (INR) and held as INR. You can withdraw the money and bring it back to the US as US dollars, but the INR will be converted to US$ at the exchange rate applicable on the date of the transaction. With the recent decline of the Indian Rupee against the US dollar, many NRE accounts lost a lot of their value. You can deposit any amount of money in your NRE account. Some banks may limit the amount you can send in one business day, but if 250 times that amount seriously limits the amount of money you want to send each year, you should not be asking here; there are enough expensive lawyers, bankers and tax advisors who will gladly guide you to a satisfactory solution. There is no limitation on the total amount that you can have in your NRE account. The earnings (interest paid) on the sum in your NRE account is not taxable income to you in India but you may still need to file an income tax return in India to get a refund of the tax withheld by the bank (TDS) and sent to the tax authorities. The bank should not withhold tax on the earnings in an NRE account but it did happen to me (in the past). While the interest paid on your NRE account is not taxable in India, it is taxable income to you on your US tax returns (both Federal and State) and you must declare it on your tax return(s) even though the bank will not issue a 1099-INT form to you. Be aware also about the reporting requirements for foreign accounts (FBAR, TD F90-22.1 etc). Lots of people ignored this requirement in the past, but are more diligent these days after the IRS got a truckload of information about accounts in foreign banks and went after people charging them big penalties for not filing these forms for ever so many years. There was a huge ruckus in the Indian communities in the US about how the IRS was unfairly targeting simple folks instead of auditing the rich!
&gt;I could be wrong but you will still get tax at 10%   This isn't true for Roths.  If I put 5k (post tax of course) money into a Roth 401k or a Roth IRA I can withdraw that 5k whenever I want penalty and tax free.  Now lets say that 5k has grown to 7k and I take out all 7k the first 5k is penalty and tax free but the extra 2k is taxed (with the extra 10% penalty added on).  So as long as you don't touch any growth in your roth accounts you can withdraw the principal amount with the same consequences you would experience if you were to take money out of your checking account at your bank.    Also money in and IRA does not have to be invested it could be in a liquid position.    Now a pre tax retirement account doesn't have the same luxury.  If I stick 5k into a traditional IRA and it grows to 7k and I pull that money out the entire ammount gets taxed AND penalized (even the principal amount is subject the 10% penalty).     Now if you do a Roth conversion (pre-tax to post-tax retirment account conversion) the principal ammount (the amount you paid taxes on) is still subject to the 10% penalty for 5 years.  After the 5 years you can withdraw the converted ammount tax and penalty free (well you already paid the taxes) it would just be the growth that is subject to the penalty.
This makes a lot of sense. So yeah you can’t cheat the FTC anymore but users also can’t cheat you anymore. Essentially that’s what you’re saying right? Also I say “you”  meaning dishonest marketers of which the world is full of. I wasn’t accusing you of being dishonest. I used to work for a company that made apps and we did all of our marketing on Instagram because it was the only thing that had a return on investment. It was dishonest but from the numbers it was literally the only thing that worked for what we could afford as an app development start up because app development certainly isn’t cheap or fast.
The link, in case you’re interested, was in the CS Monitor piece:  http://www.csmonitor.com/Commentary/Opinion/2013/0319/A-lesson-from-Iraq-war-How-to-outsource-war-to-private-contractors  Report link:  http://psm.du.edu/articles_reports_statistics/data_and_statistics.html …which I provide just in case you want to read them, not to have the same conversation a second time.  Interesting that there aren’t more hard feelings between those getting paid lots versus those not. I mean yes, you’re all there together, but if you and I are doing ostensibly the same (and possibly dangerous) work, you’re getting rich and I’m not….then again, there’s no conscription, in both cases you volunteered to be there.  Strange also that taxpayers don’t care more about this, although….perhaps not. The amount of bullshit is just too overwhelming.   Sounds like you could tell lets of stories about the women, though I’m not sure I want to hear them after a good lunch, and I’m pretty sure you don’t want to remember.
Oh!  You’re getting closer!  You’re at least seeing that I don’t treat it as a purely Economic concept!  But it isn’t a lense of my feelings I’m using either.  Can you make the leap?  You would pay “everything you could” to save your life.  There is no economic placeholder for that.  New scenario:  Your mom is dying of cancer.  At what price would you stop paying if there was a 60% chance of complete cure?
"In general, a lack of endorsement (meaning nothing written by the receiver on the back of the check) is equivalent to it being endorsed ""as deposit only"" to a bank that the depositor has an account with. (See Uniform Commercial Code §4-205.) That is, the bank that receives a deposit without any endorsement promises to the banks that process the check along the line all the way back to your bank, that they properly deposited the money into the account of the entity that the check was made out to. With checks being processed with more and more automation, it's getting fairly common for there to be little writing needed on the check itself, as the digital copy gets submitted to the banking system for clearing. If you're concerned about there being some sort of fraud, that perhaps the entity that you're sending money to isn't the ones that should be getting it, or that they're not actually getting the money, or something like that, that's really an entirely different concern. I would expect that if you were saying that you paid something, and the payee said that you hadn't, that you would dispute the transaction with your bank. They should be able to follow the electronic trail to where the money went, but I suspect they only do so as part of an investigation (and possibly only in an investigation that involved law enforcement of some type). If you're just curious about what bank account number your deposit went into, then it just looks like you're the one trying to commit some sort of fraud (even if you're just being curious), and they don't have much incentive to try to help you out there."
"To add to @Dheer's answer, this is almost certainly a scam.  The money deposited into your account is not from a person that made an honest mistake with account numbers.  It's coming from someone that has access to ""send"" money that isn't their own.  I don't know exactly what they're doing to ""send"" the money but at some point in the near future your bank will claw that money back from you on the grounds that it was illegitimately transferred to you in the first place.  If you send someone money on the premise that you're returning this money then that will be a separate transaction which won't be undone when the deposit in question is undone. Another possibility is that this person has gained access to an account from which they can send domestic wires but not international wires.  Their hope is to send money to someone domestically (you) and that this person will then send the money on to Nigeria.  If you comply with them; you, in a worst case scenario, could be seen as a money laundering accomplice in addition to having the deposit taken back from you.  It's not very likely you wouldn't be seen as another victim of a scam but people have been thrown in jail for less. You should not respond to this person at all.  Don't answer the phone when they call and ignore their emails.  Don't delete the emails, it's possible that someone at the bank or LE want them.  Call your bank immediately and tell them what's up."
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Some things you missed in your analysis: How will financing change your insurance costs? I.e. what is the difference between the insurance that you would buy for yourself and what they require? Note that it is possible that your insurance preferences are more stringent than the financing company's. If so, this isn't a big deal. But what's important is to consider if that's true. Because if you'd prefer to drive with only the legal minimum insurance and they insist that you have full coverage with no more than a $1000 deductible, that's a significant difference. Remember that you don't have $22.5k for six years. You have an average of $10.5k (($22.5k + -$1500)/2) for six years. Because you make payments ($24k) throughout. So you start with $22.5k and subtract $333.33 a month until you reach -$1500. That neglects both investment gains and potential losses. It's not the $333 payment that will freak out mortgage companies. It's the $24k debt. But that's offset by your $22.5k in assets at the beginning. And the car of course counts as an asset, albeit at lower than its sale value. I.e. from the bank's perspective, paying $22.5k for a car out of savings is almost as bad as borrowing $24k for a car. Both reduce your net worth. Watch out for hidden fees. In particular, 0% interest can often change into higher interest under certain circumstances. If we assume a 7% return for the six years, that's about $1400 the first year and less each year after. Perhaps $4500 over six years. But you aren't going to get a 7% return if you keep $24,000 in a bank account in case you have to pay off the loan. Instead, you'll get more like 1%, less than inflation. Even five year Certificates of Deposit are only about 2%, right around inflation (1.9% for previous twelve months).
Good question - I know you can keep the ISA in the UK and it won't lose its tax free status but you're not able to contribute it while you're not a UK resident. Not that its tax free status buys you that much if you're a non-resident as you could apply to receive tax gross on pretty much any savings account anyway. Given that the idea of tax-free saving outside a retirement account doesn't really exist here in the US I would assume that you will have to declare the interest as income and, if you don't pay any other taxes in the UK that would cover the amount you'd have to pay on your ISA under the foreign tax credit, you'd end up giving the IRS their pound of flesh. As I mentioned in an answer to a previous question, you really need to talk to an US accountant/CPA, preferably one that is familiar with UK taxation law as well.
All that's needed to deposit into your account are two things  Bank identifier is could be SWIFT code, IBAN, or similar routing number. an ABA routing number a similar idendifier used by US banks. It's a scam. A variant scam deposits too much money in your account and then requests you repay the excess before canceling the deposit.  If a stranger deposits money and then asks you to repay some. Do not do so. contact your bank instead.
If you're really price-sensitive, consider carrying cash in your wallet whenever your brother (or you) comes home to your own country. Besides saving money, this should teach your younger brother to plan well and manage his living costs or otherwise he'll starve. Let's say that a month's living cost is $1500 which includes housing, food, transportation, and the occasional splurging[1]. If your brother's school is in a per-semester basis, chances are he'll visit your home country at about twice a year. That will be $1500 * 6 months = $9000. You can still carry that amount of money in your wallet (that's 90 sheets in $100 bills, which should fit in larger wallets) provided that you're careful. If you or your brother don't go home regularly at least once a year, the 3% transfer fee isn't that big. Let's say that the total amount that you transfer is $18K (for a year's living cost, $1500 * 12 months), the fee for that will be $540 ($18000 * 0.03), which I'll bet is far less than a return airfare from the US to India/China/UAE. [1] I'm living on my own in Singapore right now, and my monthly expenses rarely exceeds S$1500/month, so I'm assuming that in the states that would be USD 1500. You can get a projection for that number yourself.
"Technically there could be a true cash fund, but the issue is it would need to have some sort of cost associated with it, which would mean it would have negative yield or would charge a fee.  In some cases, this might be preferable to having it invested in ""cash equivalents,"" which as you note are not cash.  It is important to note that there is nothing, even cash or physical precious metals, that is considered zero risk.  They all just have different risks associated with them, that may be an issue under certain circumstances.  In severe deflation, cash is king, and all non-cash asset classes and debt could go down in value.  Under severe inflation, cash can become worthless. One respondent mentioned an alternative of stopping contributing to a 401k and depositing money in a bank, but that is not the same as cash either.  In recent decades, people have been led to believe that depositing your money in the bank means you hold that in cash at the bank.  That is untrue.  They hold your deposit on their books and proceed to invest/loan that money, but those investments can turn sour in an economic and financial downturn.  The same financial professionals would then remind you that, while this is true, there is the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) that will make you whole should the bank go under.  Unfortunately, if enough banks went under due to lack of reserves, the FDIC may be unable to make depositors whole for lack of reserves.  In fact, they were nearing this during the last financial crisis.  The sad thing is that the financial industry is bias against offering what you said, because they make money by using your money.  Fractional reserve banking.  You are essentially holding IOUs from your bank when you have money on deposit with them. Getting back to the original question; you could do some searching and see if there is an institution that would act as a cash depository for physical cash in your IRA.  There are IRA-approved ways of holding physical precious metals, which isn't all too different of a concept from holding physical cash. 401k plans are chosen by your company and often have very limited options available, meaning it'd be unlikely you could ever hold physical cash or physical precious metals in your 401k."
I don't think you need to bother with trust accounts.  The point of a trust account is holding funds that aren't yours yet.  You take a retainer fee that you have yet to earn.  As you work, you bill your hourly rate, your client signs off and you take possession of the funds.   You're going to work a project, you'll take a partial payment as a deposit and partial payment upon completion.  But this is a payment to you, not money transferred to you to hold until you earn it at a later date. Your contract can specify remedies for missing a deadline, or any other thing that could happen.