vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Quick get a Social Security Number for the child. You will need it before you file your taxes early next year. If you don't have a SSN for your child you will not be able to claim them as a dependent. If you applied for one already, many do so at the hospital, then wait for it to arrive. The next step is to open a savings account with the child's SSN. Then have your parent write the check in the child's name and deposit it into the account.  If it is written in the child's name already then you don't need a new check from them. If the check is large, you may run into problems if you take a check in the name of a minor and try and deposit it into your account. The bank would have no idea that the person is related to you.
You actually have a few options. First, you can do a share split and then sell an equal number of shares from both you and your wife to maintain parity. Second, you can have the company issue additional shares/convert shares and then have the company sell the appropriate percentage to the third party while the rest is distributed to you and your wife. Third, you can have the company issue a separate class of stock. For example there are companies that have voting stock and non-voting stock. Depending on your goal, you could just issue non-voting stock and sell that.  Best bet is to contact a lawyer who specializes in this type of work and have them recommend a course of action. One caveat that has not been mentioned is that what/how you do this will also depend on the type of corporation that you have created.
"First, don't save anything in a tax sheltered vehicle. You will be paying so little tax that there will be essentially no benefit to making the contributions, and you'll pay tax when they come out. Tax free compounding for 40 years is terrific, but start that after you're earning more than a stipend. Second, most people recommend having a month's expenses readily available for emergencies. For you, that would be $1500. If you put $100 a month aside, it will take over a year to have your emergency fund. It's easy to argue that you should pick a higher pace, so as to have your emergency money in place sooner. However, the ""emergencies"" usually cited are things like home repair, car repair, needing to replace your car, and so on. Since you are renting your home and don't have a car, these emergencies aren't going to happen to you. Ask yourself, if your home was destroyed, and you had to replace all your clothes and possessions (including furniture), how much would you need? (Keep in mind any insurance you have.) The only emergency expense I can't guess about is health costs, because I live in Canada. I would be tempted to tell you to get a credit card with a $2000 limit and consider that your emergency fund, just because grad student living is so tight to the bone (been there, and 25 years ago I had $1200 a month, so it must be harder for you now.) If you do manage to save up $1500, and you've really been pinching to do that (walking instead of taking the bus, staying on campus hungry instead of popping out to buy food) let up on yourself when you hit the target. Delaying your graduation by a few months because you're not mentally sharp due to hunger or tiredness will be a far bigger economic hit than not having saved $200 a month for 2 or 3 years. The former is 3-6 months of your new salary, the latter 5-7K. You know what you're likely to earn when you graduate, right?"
Do you write checks?  You are giving your bank account and routing number to anybody you have ever given a check to.  Your employer is paying taxes on your behalf, so they need your social security number so they can pay your social security taxes. Account and routing numbers are how deposits are made.  If you are concerned, create a free checking account, collect the direct deposit and each payday go to the bank and withdraw your money to put it where you like. Nothing is deposit only because you will want your money back. Finally, you would be shocked at how little it takes to make a draft on your account in the US.  Certainly not your SSN, Address, or even your name.
As a buyer, without company blessing, you’re taking on significant counterparty risk from the seller (will they make good on their promise to deliver shares in the future?) or the risk that the transfer is impermissible under relevant restrictions and your purchase is invalid. As a seller, you’re running the risk of violating your equity agreements, which can have severe penalties, like forfeiture of your stock. Your shares are also much less marketable when you’re looking to transact without the company’s knowledge or approval. 3). Terms don't change depending an a shareholder's situation. EquityZen is a professional company and values all of the shareholders that use the platform. It’s a marketplace so the market sets the price. In other situations, you may be at the mercy of just one large buyer. This can happen when you’re facing a big tax bill on exercise but don’t have the cash (because you have the stock). 4). EquityZen doesn't offer loans so this is a non issue. 5). Not EquityZen! EquityZen creates a clean break from the economics. It’s not uncommon for the loan structures to use an interest component as well as some other complications, like upside participation and and also a liquidation preference. EquityZen strives for a simple structure where you’re not on the hook for the downside and you’ve transferred all the upside as well.
"Banks have a financial, and regulational duty called ""Know your customer"", established to avoid a number of historical problems occurring again, such as money laundering, terrorism financing, fraud, etc. Thanks to the scale, and scope of the problem (millions of customers, billions of transactions a day), the way they're handling this usually involves fuzzy logics matching, looking for irregular patterns, problem escalation, and other warning signs. When exceeding some pre-set limit, these signal clues are then filtered, and passed on for human inspection. Needless to say, these algorithms are not perfect, although, thanks to financial pressure, they are improving. In order to understand why your trading account has been suspended, it's useful to look at the incentives: false positives -suspending your trade, and assuming you guilty until proven otherwise- could cost them merely your LTV (lifetime value of customer -how much your business brings in as profit); while false negatives -not catching you while engaging in activities listed above- might cost them multi-month investigations, penalties, and court. Ultimately, this isn't against you. I've been with the bank for 15 years and the money in the accounts has been very slowly accumulated via direct-deposit paychecks over that time. From this I gather the most likely explanation, is that you've hit somekind of account threshold, that the average credit-happy customers usually do not exceed, which triggered a routine checkup. How do you deal with it? Practice puppetry! There is only one way to survive angry customers emotionally: you have to realize that they’re not angry at you; they’re angry at your business, and you just happen to be a convenient representative of that business. And since they’re treating you like a puppet, an iconic stand-in for the real business, you need to treat yourself as a puppet, too. Pretend you’re a puppeteer. The customer is yelling at the puppet. They’re not yelling at you. They’re angry with the puppet. Your job is to figure out, “gosh, what can I make the puppet say that will make this person a happy customer?”
Until you find a job, I would recommend doing nothing more than a bank checking account or a checking and savings account.  Some alternatives, such as savings bonds, would be okay if you were perfectly sure you did not need the money in the next six months.  Consider working for a place such as McDonald's in the meantime. Once you have stable employment, there are two paths you could take.  The first is a bond fund.  It would provide fair market returns for the time between now and the collection of social security.  The second would be a traditional annuity.  You have to be careful with them.  If it sounds much better than what others are offering, it is probably a scam.  Your interest in an annuity is that it will pay you money for as long as you live.  If you live to be 105 you will still be getting payments.  A bond fund would have run out of money long ago by that time. The biggest thing for you right now is getting to when Medicare takes over from private health.  Looking for any job is important right now to preserve cash. Although I do not normally recommend annuities, I do with smaller amounts of cash.  It is unlikely you will ever recover this sum again and the time remaining to save is very short.  The greatest challenge with an annuity is regret.  You can't get the money back once you have turned it into an income stream.  On the other hand, it will last as long as you live. The only important caveat is that if you are in poor health, then the bond fund would be better for you because you may not live to be very old.
"The margin money you put up to fund a short position ($6000 in the example given) is simply a ""good faith"" deposit that is required by the broker in order to show that you are acting in good faith and fully intend to meet any potential losses that may occur.  This margin is normally called initial margin.  It is not an accounting item, meaning it is not debited from you cash account.  Rather, the broker simply segregates these funds so that you may not use them to fund other trading.  When you settle your position these funds are released from segregation.   In addition, there is a second type of margin, called variation margin, which must be maintained while holding a short position.  The variation margin is simply the running profit or loss being incurred on the short position.  In you example, if you sold 200 shares at $20 and the price went to $21, then your variation margin would be a debit of $200, while if the price went to $19, the variation margin would be a credit of $200.   The variation margin will be netted with the initial margin to give the total margin requirement ($6000 in this example).  Margin requirements are computed at the close of business on each trading day.  If you are showing a loss of $200 on the variation margin, then you will be required to put up an additional $200 of margin money in order to maintain the $6000 margin requirement - ($6000 - $200 = $5800, so you must add $200 to maintain $6000).  If you are showing a profit of $200, then $200 will be released from segregation - ($6000 + $200 = $6200, so $200 will be release from segregation leaving $6000 as required). When you settle your short position by buying back the shares, the margin monies will be release from segregation and the ledger postings to you cash account will be made according to whether you have made a profit or a loss.  So if you made a loss of $200 on the trade, then your account will be debited for $200 plus any applicable commissions.  If you made a profit of $200 on the trade then your account will be credited with $200 and debited with any applicable commissions."
It’s fascinating that you think you’re right, but more so that you think you are speaking well know truths. It’s fascinating because there are hundreds of studies done on each of these topics and there’s been no definitive answer. Some studies say it has nothing to do with race, some studies say it has nothing to do with socioeconomic factors, and some say “we don’t know.”  Yet here you are, standing as the racial expert of Reddit spouting what you believe is the truth everyone is ignoring. And perhaps what takes more guts is that you are doing it and pretending to have a wealth of evidence for your belief!  Just save us all the time and admit you’re a racist. Don’t bullshit and pretend to be well read on such complex issues. Just say “I’m a racist and I hate black people” and move on. Don’t insult our intelligence by pretending to be smart.
Since you mentioned £, there's a good chance you're in the UK. The UK is something of an anomaly in the world in so much as you don't need to use CDFs because you can 'spread bet'. The principle is ultimately the same: you're making a bet that the price will change in your favour. As others have said, this isn't investment and isn't a good idea if you don't know what you're doing. It's a possibly risky way into the field because your losses can exceed your deposit. It's generally pretty short-term, and so is highly susceptible to unpredictable temporary market fluctuation ('real' investing is usually longer term, and so based on the general trend of the market, which is generally less difficult to predict). That said, half-way decent spread betting companies will check you out pretty thoroughly before you start, they'll offer a 'demo' account where you can trade with 'fake money' (ie. you make no deposit, and can make no withdrawals) until you're comfortable. Some do training courses and seminars too. When you first start trading for real, you'll need to put a 'stop loss' on every trade, and thus mostly avoid the problem of losing more than you staked (it's still possible to lose more than you staked with a stop loss, but in most cases your excess loss won't be ruinous, just eye-watering). I worked for one such spread-betting company (a good, honest one at that). We once had an internal competition using demo accounts - the aim was to make as much money as you could in a two week period. I think we started with £10,000 each. A couple of people 'made' a decent looking amount of money in that time, but dozens more of us lost at least all of the money. It is possible to make money, but there's a far, far greater chance you'll lose all you're prepared to stake (and maybe more). Also, using a demo account is very different from using real money (no matter how much you tell yourself it isn't).
"To the average consumer, the financial health of a bank is completely irrelevant.  The FDIC's job is to make it that way.  Even if a bank does go under, the FDIC is very good at making sure there is little/no interruption in service.  Usually, another bank just takes over the asset of the failing bank, and you don't even notice the difference.  You might have a ~24 hour window where your local ATM doesn't work. I also really question the ""FDIC is broke"" statement.  The FDIC has access to additional funding beyond the Deposit Insurance Fund mentioned in your link.  It also has the ability to borrow from the Treasury. If you look into the FDIC's report a bit closer, the amount in the ""Provision for Insurance Losses"" is not just money spent on failing banks.  It also includes money that has been set aside to cover anticipated failures and litigation.  Saying the FDIC is ""broke"" is like saying I am ""broke"" because my checking account balance went down after I moved some money into a rainy-day fund. Failure of the FDIC would signal a failure of our financial system and the government that backs it.  If the FDIC fails, your petty checking account would be meaningless anyway.  The important things would be non-perishable food, clean water, and guns/ammo. That said, it will be interesting to see the latest quarterly report for the FDIC when it is released next week.  The article implies things will look a little better for the FDIC, but we'll see."
To piggyback on a comment that @enderland posted, if you have some extra cash saved, something worth considering is to evaluate your current retirement accounts to determine future tax liability. In Canada, there exist Roth IRA-like Tax Free Savings Accounts (TFSA) which are pre-taxed (meaning that you pay all taxes up front when you deposit monies to this account rather than when you withdraw them during retirement after they have grown in interest). Depending on the type of account your retirement funds are currently held in, it might be financially advantageous of you to save your extra money in a short term savings account, transfer your current retirement savings from a post-tax account to a TFSA and use that extra money to pay off any immediate tax liability incurred as a result of the transfer.  You will have to run the numbers yourself to determine if your retirement account setup, balance and interest justifies this route but given your age there is a fairly high chance that you can end up saving many tens of thousands of dollars in taxes that might be otherwise be due when you retire.
"The new information helps a little, but you're still stuck as far as doing exactly what you asked.  The question that you really should be asking is ""How do I deposit money into my BofA checking account from Italy?""  If you can figure that out, then the whole part about your father's AmEx card really becomes irrelevant.  He might get that money from a cash advance on his AmEx card or he might get it from somewhere else. I think there's some small chance that if you call BofA and ask the right question, they may give you an answer that will let you make this deposit.  I tend to doubt it, but this would at least give you a chance. Other than that, you should probably look into some options based in Italy.  For example, get the cash from your father and open a bank account in Italy.  Maybe you can buy a pre-paid Visa card with the cash to use while you're there.  Maybe use traveler's checks for the rest of your trip.  Etc. What is available and what makes sense will still depend on a lot of details that we don't have (like how long you're staying and what type of entry visa you got when you entered Italy)."
"Noted... the tricky thing is that some people are quite literally living paycheck to paycheck, even without any extravagant spending.  If you're in this boat, and something comes up, like a broken tooth, or a transmission, or something else, and you think, ""Well, I can pay this big bill today, then my check get deposited in 2 days, so I can pay my phone then, even though it'll be a little late, and so on and so on. You weren't going to bounce anything, true, but then the bank took an extra day to deposit a check FROM ANOTHER BRANCH OF THE SAME BANK... and now you owe them $35.   I'm not saying we shouldn't all be financially responsible, we should. It's just that things can be really, really tight for people. ""Just don't spend it,"" literally isn't an option.   I honestly have been the best about money when I only had an account that I had to deposit by mail... I had to plan enough ahead that I couldn't get too low. I'm thinking I may go back to that system, just for that reason."
"As soon as you specify FDIC you immediately eliminate what most people would call investing. The word you use in the title ""Parking"" is really appropriate. You want to preserve the value. Therefore bank or credit union deposits into either a high yield account or a Certificate of Deposit are the way to go. Because you are not planning on a lot of transactions you should also look at some of the online only banks, of course only those with FDIC coverage. The money may need to be available over the next 2-5 years to cover   college tuition If needing it for college tuition is a high probability you could consider putting some of the money in your state's 529 plan. Many states give you a tax deduction for contributions. You need to check how much is the maximum you can contribute in a year. There may be a maximum for your state. Also gift tax provisions have to be considered. You will also want to understand what is the amount you will need to cover tuition and other eligible expenses. There is a big difference between living at home and going to a state school, and going out of state. The good news is that if you have gains and you use the money for permissible expenses, the gains are tax free. Most states have a plan that becomes more conservative as the child gets closer to college, therefore the chance of losses will be low. The plan is trying to avoid having a large drop in value just a the kid hits their late teens, exactly what you are looking for."
Deposit accounts lists savings rates for most of the online banks that offer savings accounts. Select one of the accounts with higher interest and you'll earn more on your money that you can with a savings account at Wells Fargo. You can transfer the money from Wells Fargo to one of the online lenders using electronic funds transfer.  If you plan to invest the money, you should consider what the purpose is long-term. If you don't plan on needing it for ~5 years or so you could consider a bond fund from Vanguard. Understand that while, this would be low risk, you could still lose money and this doesn't provide the same level of safety as a bank savings account from Wells Fargo or one of the online banks.
If you withdraw money from an RRSP, you are taxed on that money as ordinary income and will have to pay withholding taxes, and potentially more income tax when you file. Additionally, you lose that contribution amount. If you subsequently deposit the same gross amount into another RRSP at a different bank, that will lower your taxable income for the year and you'll subsequently be able to recover the withholding taxes, but you will have permanently lost the contribution room. For example, you have $100,000 in RRSP contribution room. You buy $1,000 in RRSPs from Bank A. This leaves you with $99,000 in RRSP contribution room. Next year, you withdraw that $1,000 and deposit it in Bank B in an RRSP account. Now, you have $98,000 in RRSP contribution room. Chances are good that Bank A withheld 15% for taxes, but when you file your tax return, you'll get that back. Your withdrawal and subsequent purchase of RRSPs in the tax year cancel out. Far better is to transfer the RRSP from Bank A to Bank B. That has no tax implications and would not affect your RRSP contribution limit. Not all banks are willing to do this, though.
How would the RRSP know where the money came from? You have two separate financial operations going on: You invest some money, within the limits set by the law, in a Tax Free Savings Account.  Near the end of the year, you take the money, plus interest, out of the account.  As you may guess by the name, you need not report the interest as income. There are no restrictions on the money, except that you can't put it back in the TFSA until the new year.  The money is not segregated, or frozen, or marked with an exploding dye-pack.  It's just money in your regular bank account, or your pocket, or under your mattress. During that year, you also work for a salary.  Some is deducted from your salary to prepay your tax responsibilities, subject to a final calculation . You spend some and save some.  The money you save also goes into your bank account, your pocket, or under your mattress. You can even take some of your money from your chosen repository and put it in a RRSP, which postpones the need to pay tax on the original deposit and on any earnings on the deposit.  The money you take has lost all sense of identity:  it isn't TFSA money or salary, or paper route money, or twelfth birthday money.  It's just money...
Yes. It is a scam, and here is how it will work. They will deposit a phony check into the account which will appear to clear. You will send money to Africa from the account. The check will take a while to bounce, but it will bounce. They will take it back out of your account (and may try to prosecute you for a fake check). At best, your account balance will go negative and you will owe the money back to the bank that you sent. The people you sent the money to will vanish.