vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Regarding the opportunity cost comparison, consider the following two scenarios assuming a three-year lease: Option A: Keep your current car for three years In this scenario, you start with a car that's worth $10,000 and end with a car that's worth $7,000 after three years. Option B: Sell your current car, invest proceeds, lease new car Here, you'll start out with $10,000 and invest it. You'll start with $10,000 in cash from the sale of your old car, and end with $10,000 plus investment gains. You'll have to estimate the return of your investment based on your investing style. Option C: Use the $10k from proceeds as down payment for new car In this scenario you'll get a reduction in finance charges on your lease, but you'll be out $10,000 at the end. Overall Cost Comparison To compare the total cost to own your current car versus replacing it with a new leased car, first look up the cost of ownership for your current car for the same term as the lease you're considering. Edmunds offers this research and calls it True Cost to Own. Specifically, you'll want to include depreciation, fuel, insurance, maintenance and repairs. If you still owe money you should also factor the remaining payments. So the formula is: Cost to keep car = Depreciation + Fuel + Insurance + Maintenance + Repairs On the lease side consider taxes and fees, all lease payments, fuel, and maintenance. Assume repairs will be covered under warranty. Assume you will put down no money on the lease and you will finance fees, taxes, title, and license when calculating lease payments. You also need to consider the cost to pay off your current car's loan if applicable. Then you should subtract the gains you expect from investing for three years the proceeds from the sale of your car. Assume that repairs will be covered under warranty.
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A solution to this is the person charges their car at work. It's not a solution for every person that you described. Another option is for the person to charge their vehicle while shopping for groceries using the fast charge station. I imagine most city dwellers or folks living in the inner suburbs have short commutes, 5-10 miles (a guess), that's a max of 200 miles for the work week; easily covered by the Tesla and Bolt.
Yes, this is fine: You can save up to £20,000 in one type of account or split the   allowance across some or all of the other types. You can only pay £4,000 into your Lifetime ISA in a tax year ... Example   You could save £11,000 in a cash ISA, £2,000 in a stocks and shares ISA, £3,000 in an innovative finance ISA and £4,000 in a   Lifetime ISA in one tax year. https://www.gov.uk/individual-savings-accounts/how-isas-work You might want to consider whether it is wise to be fully invested in shares. If you're going to have to dip into them for things like holidays and a car, you're taking a risk that you might have to sell when the market is low. As a basic rate taxpayer, you have a £1 000 personal savings allowance. You don't need to chase the tax break with a cash ISA, which often have poor rates. However, you should consider keeping some of your savings in cash, for example in a current account that pays decent interest on the balance.
I'm a finance manager at a dealership. The thing that I tell people about leasing:  It's good if you plan to make more money in the future. You can get a new car.  The downside of leasing. When you get out of your lease you will either pay straight cash, get another loan for the unit, or get a new unit. 3 years down the road you have no idea what interest rates will be. If you lock in your rate today you are guaranteed that rate. With the government increasing rates we could see higher rates that could cost you more.  Also if you get a loan today it will be 5-6 years. Leasing will have a 3 year lease with another 5-6 year loan on top of that. Causing to pay more in the long run  If your brother doesn't have straight cash to pay for it at the end of 3 years I recommend buying new
"In the US, ""title"" is the document that shows ownership of the car. It is a nicely printed document you get from the DMV, that includes the information about the car and about you. You ""sign off the title"" when you sell the car - part of the title is a form on which the owner of the title can assign it to someone else. With your signature on the title, the new owner goes to the DMV which exchanges it to a new title in the new owner's name. Never sign on the title unless you got the payment for the car from the buyer. Usually, when the car is bought with a loan, the lender holds the title. Since you need to sign off the title to pass the ownership if you sell the car - lender holding on to it will prevent you from selling the car until the lender gives you the title back (when you pay off the loan). Your boss, acting as a lender, wants the title to hold on to it to prevent you from selling the car that secures your debt to him. He wants that (usually pink) piece of paper. Here's an article explaining about the title and showing a sample. Lenders holding the title will usually also add an endorsement at the DMV, so that you can't go and claim that you lost it."
My gut reaction is to agree with you. Then I realize that I'm shopping for a laptop that would have been a supercomputer ten years ago and planning to spend about $500. I think there's going to be a tipping point in 3D printing where it will just explode. And with the platform vendors locking their platforms down, figure a lot of the hobbyists are going to explode in that direction.   Pick the date you think we'll be able to print an electric motor (or at least the parts so it can be assembled) and I wouldn't be shocked if by that date some geek has actually printed him/herself a car.
I've been threatened numerous times for pushing to pay with a card rather than cash by taxis.  This was before Uber blew up.  It was clear they wanted to skim from their company.  I've literally had to jump out a car and run because of 5 minute arguments to take a card.  The card machines each time looked to function and  the sticker on the window says it's accepted.  Fuck them wrong way driving, wannabe Nascar, pedophile taxi cab drivers.
"A $1 note and four quarters are both real money, but how (and when) they become real money is different. The important thing is that the Fed's stockpile of cash that it gets from the Bureau of Engraving and Printing isn't ""real money"" (i.e. M0) yet. That cash is only used for fulfilling withdrawals from reserve accounts. You can't use it to buy a car, or a house, or to pay Janet Yellen's salary...no one, not even Janet, can use even a single dollar to buy a Diet Coke. In other words, it's not really an asset. Or a liability. Or anything but a stack of paper in the Fed's vaults that looks astonishingly like money, but isn't. The upside to this is that when the BEP makes a delivery of fresh bills to the Fed, or when the Fed destroys old, ratty bills that aren't usable anymore, the Fed's balance sheet doesn't change. That's good! Those are practical considerations, not financial ones. The downside is that there's nothing on the asset side of the sheet to explain how the Fed's liability to a bank is reduced when the bank makes a cash withdrawal from its reserve account. So the Fed balances it's balance sheet by recording an increase in a different liability: the cash in circulation. Kinda like transferring the balance on a credit card: you're paying down one liability by increasing another one. It looks a bit silly, but less silly than recording the destruction of old bills as an ""expense"" of the face value of the bills. Coins, on the other hand, become money as soon as the Treasury gets them from the Mint. If they wanted to, they could pay their employees' salaries by ordering coins from the Mint for cheap, giving them to their employees at face value, and reaping fat profits as a result. In fact, that's pretty much exactly what they do: when someone wants quarters, the Treasury mints them at less than face value and then sells them at face value. In practice the Fed does all of this buying and then distributes the coins according to demand.
Let's say I buy eggs from a farmer.  That farmer gives the money I paid him to a dentist.  The dentist buys a new car.  I work at the car factory and buy some eggs from the farmer.  The money is running around, everyone who uses it gets something he needs, everyone who gets money supplies something to someone.  I got an omelette, the farmer got his teeth fixed, the dentist has a new car. People got things they wanted from the money circulation.  Now imagine I have to pay taxes. I will not get the eggs I want to buy. The farmer will not get his teeth fixed. The dentist will not get a new car. I will lose my job because there is no one to buy a car from me.  The public sector worker who got paid with the tax money will have money to buy a car, but he won't have a car to buy, because I'm not making cars anymore. I'm not making cars because the dentist is not buying cars, he's not buying cars because the farmer is not hiring the dentist because I'm not buying his eggs.  The chain works because everyone gets something useful from his suppliers and provides something useful to his clients.  When the public sector comes in, there will be a lot of people in between who consume resources yet do not provide anything useful in return. Pay someone to dig a hole, pay someone else to fill the hole. You have money circulating, but nothing useful is being generated.  That's what taxes mean, they are a way to get people to pay for things they wouldn't pay volutarily. Taxes make people pay for things they don't really want or need.  Taxes make money disappear from the economy.
I'll tell you what DOES work though, is grocery pickups.  My wife loves to grocery shop online and then just swing by to have the bags loaded up and pay for them.  Maybe Amazon will integrate online shopping for grocery pickup somehow.
Planned my grocery shopping better.  You can't just wake up on Saturday hungry go to the grocer and buy what looks good. Take the time to clip some coupons and more importantly make a shopping list.
Assuming the amount of your car payment and student loan aren't crazy you should be fine. I would suggest starting with a baseline budget listing your monthly income and expenses. Be sure to include miscellaneous expenses like car maintenance, insurance, food, clothes, etc (the common things that sometimes get overlooked in a budget). After all of your necessary expenses (fluff like entertainment doesn't count), if your employer has a 401k with a match I would contribute to that up to the match amount.  Next I would save an emergency fund to cover unforseen events such as car repairs, etc. $1000 is not an uncommon amount to see people suggest for this. Next I would knock out your car loan then student loan as fast as possible. This will free up some cash flow which gives you more freedom to do what you want. At this point you save more so you don't have to finance the next car or have a down payment for a home or whatever.  Building your savings to be 3-6 months of income is a good idea, this covers things like being laid off or other larger unexpected events. After you get to that point how you handle your budget is pretty open.
The answer to your question:  I don't think it's being irresponsible at all.  You are at least saving for your retirement, some people aren't even doing that. My advice?  Replace the car with a cheaper car that you absolutely adore.  $1000/month is a lot to pay for a car that's just a car.  Sell yours, take the resultant money and buy a cheaper car outright.  But buy something fun.  If you're going to enjoy driving when you get in your car, really enjoy it. I suggest a used Miata, or a BMW 325i, the E30 version from the late 80s.  Rear wheel drive, light, responsive, and practical.  And cheap as chips to fix as well!
Well I mean yea it's absolutely possible to be making as much. I was talking about teaching the people you sponsor into business downline from you. You teach those people to stop shopping from GNC and Red Bull and instead buy similar products from Amway. It's money they are already spending and you teach them to shop through their own store to keep the profit. Some people just want to make a little bit of money on the side selling their products without sponsoring people.   That's not what I'm talking about. The whole idea is to build a business asset that will give you TIME. It's about creating cash flow so you can stop trading your time working for a boss and building his company. Then you find other people who want that lifestyle and teach them how to accomplish those dreams.
Online groceries in Kolkata can put a conclusion to feared treks to the market. There are administrations that ship staple goods the nation over and a few chains utilize nearby conveyance too. This can spare us huge amounts of time, and that itself is justified regardless of its ruler's payment. In any case, can shopping on the web market in Kolkata preserve us cash? Regularly it can.
"What could a small guy with $100 do to make himself not poor? The first priority is an emergency fund. One of the largest expenses of poor people are short-term loans for emergencies. Being able to avoid those will likely be more lucrative than an S&P investment. Remember, just like a loan, if you use your emergency fund, you'll need to refill it. Be smart, and pay yourself 10% interest when you do. It's still less than you'd pay for a payday loan, and yet it means that after every emergency you're better prepared for the next event. To get an idea for how much you'd need: you probably own a car. How much would you spend, if you suddenly had to replace it? That should be money you have available. If you think ""must"" buy a new car, better have that much available. If you can live with a clunker, you're still going to need a few K.  Having said that, the next goal after the emergency fund should be savings for the infrequent large purchases. The emergency fund if for the case where your car unexpectedly gets totaled; the saving is for the regular replacement. Again, the point here is to avoid an expensive loan.  Paying down a mortgage is not that important. Mortgage loans are cheaper than  car loans, and much cheaper than payday loans. Still, it would be nice if your house is paid when you retire. But here chances are that stocks are a better investment than real estate, even if it's the real estate you live in."
Also make a menu and make a shopping list from that.  It will help you control how much you buy, and help to enforce only buying what you need.  You don't need to limit your menu, but buying what you need in appropriate quantities will help.  Don't forget to add snacking and desserts to your menu.
Buying a car is a very big financial decision. There are three major factors to decide which car to buy: Pick two because you can't have all three. You can either have a reliable car that has cheap running costs but will be expensive to buy or a cheap car that is unreliable. If you are mechanically minded then reliability might not be that important to you. However, if you must get to work on time every day then owning a car that breaks down once every six months might be something you wish to avoid. There are a lot of hidden costs that should be thought about very carefully when considering purchasing a car: In my country, annual car registration costs are around $650. I budget around $1000 for maintenance each year (a major + minor service and some extra repair work). When I factor in an amount for depreciation, that brings the running costs of the car to somewhere between $1500 and $2000 per annum before I've driven it anywhere. Generally I will fill up my car for $50 around once a month (I don't drive too often) which makes my total cost of ownership somewhere around $2500 per annum. When I was driving my car to work daily, the petrol costs were much higher at around $50 per week, which made my TCO somewhere around $4500 p.a. And this is on an extremely reliable, fuel efficient 2006 model car which cost me $18k to purchase. I have no debt on this car. But the car itself is a liability. Any car will be a liability. I understand that petrol prices are ridiculously low in the US and probably registration is lower as well. In this case you will need to adjust your figures and do the maths to work out what your annual cost of ownership will be. There are three alternatives to car ownership to consider which may save you money: Public transportation and car pooling are highly recommended from a financial perspective, though you may not have access to either in your situation. Moving closer to work may also be an option, though for many jobs this may increase your cost of living. If you decide that you do need a car and decide that $2000 is not going to get you the car you feel you need ($2000 usually does not get you much), you will need to decide how to finance the car.
I did not know that.  Maybe they haven't done such a great job at branding after all. Or maybe it's because I don't do much grocery shopping in my household.   I'm going to pay more attention to it next time. Very interesting.
Another possible reason for this is to benefit the servers. When patrons pay with a credit card, they usually tip on the credit card too. If patrons are more likely to pay with cash, then the servers will get more cash tips. Even if the restaurant is completely honest with their books, the servers may not be. Having a restaurant where tips are mostly cash might attract better servers, or perhaps enable the owner to pay servers slightly less than otherwise.
If you prefer having the products to the money, then yes. Others have suggested that it's the irresponsible credit card users that generate the real profit. I disagree. They generate more revenue in the short term, but then they overspend and declare bankruptcy. Then Amazon loses its money. Yes, they get more interest and fees in that case, but if they lose $1000, they needed to make $1000 in profit just to break even. It's safer to make the smaller short term profits with responsible customers who will continue to be customers for the long term. A steady profit of $100 or $200 a year is better than a one time profit of $500 followed by a loss of $1000 followed by nothing for ten years. Anyway, your question was if you should sign up for the card. If you are planning on doing a lot of shopping on Amazon, you might as well. It gives you cash back. If shopping on Amazon is inconvenient, then perhaps that outweighs the advantage of the card. The ""cash back"" is just Amazon money. You can't spend it anywhere but Amazon. If each transaction gives you a little bit of Amazon money, you have to keep going back to spend it."
That totally sucks!  I use Avis for work once a year when I'm flown out to corporate and both times I've done so they've managed to fuck up in regards to my reservation.    The first time I received an email from them thanking me for using their service when I still had the car and saw a new $300 charge on my credit card.  When I called to inquire about the car I had rented 3 days earlier that was still in my possession they informed me that the vehicle had been checked into one of their depots 2300 miles away and they were citing a fee for returning the vehicle to another location.  When I asked the agent how many miles were recorded driven on the vehicle she responded with 108.  I then asked her how far she thought Chicago was from San Francisco and if it was possible to drive that distance in 3 days while only incurring 108 miles on the vehicle.  In the end, they refused to back down and I had to involve corporate to settle everything.  The second issue was much less eventful but happened a week ago when I checked out a car.  I received an email 2 hours later saying they're sorry my car hadn't been available and to call them for an explanation.  Puzzled as I had gotten the car I had asked for I called and was told that their system says I had checked out and in the very same car I had the previous day at 8:34pm (check in and check out were recorded as the same time, same day) and they charged me $50 for a single day's rental.  This time they recognized that it was an error and credited me back the money on my CC but I don't know why they have so many issues with their reservation system.
A lender will look at three things when giving a loan: Income. Do you make enough money each month to afford the payments. They will subtract from your income any other loans, credit card debt, student loan debt, mortgage. They will also figure in your housing costs. Your Collateral. For a mortgage the collateral is the house, for a car loan it is the car. They will only give you a loan to a specific percentage of the value of the collateral. Your money in the bank isn't collateral, but it can serve as a down payment on the loan.  Your Credit score. This is a measure of how well you handle credit. The longer the history the better. Using credit wisely is better than not using the credit you have.  If you don't have a credit card, get one. Start with your current bank. You have a history with them. If they won't help you join a credit union. Another source of car loans is the auto dealer. Though their rates can be high. Make sure that the purchase price doesn't require a monthly payment too high for your income. Good rules of thumb for monthly payments are 25% for housing and 10% for all other loans combined. Even a person with perfect credit can't get a loan for more than the bank thinks they can afford. Note: Don't drain all your savings, you will need it to pay for the unexpected expenses in life. You might think you have enough cash to pay off the student loan or to make a big down payment, but you don't want to stretch yourself too thin.
"Which of these categories are emergency funds meant to cover? Emergency funds are for emergencies, which to me means expenses that are unanticipated and can't be covered out of ""normal"" cash-flow.  Oil changes are not an ""emergency"" and should be part of your normal budget.  Car/house repairs and doctor visits might be an emergency depending on the severity and the urgency (e.g. do I need to fix this now or can I save up and fix it?) For known, predictable expenses that are infrequent (Christmas, birthdays, car insurance, home insurance/taxes if it's not part of your mortgage payment), I use an escrow account.  I calculate how much I'll need for all of those things put together over the year and set aside a fixed amount each paycheck to ensure that I have enough to cover each item.  You could do something similar for minor doctor visits, car repairs, etc.  Estimate how much you might spend and set aside some money each month. If you find you're spending more than you thought, just increase the amount.  You can use envelopes for each type of expense, have a separate checking account for those, whatever.  The point is to set it aside and make sure you have enough left over to cover your known expenses. The whole point of an emergency fund is to be able to pay cash for emergencies rather than borrowing to pay them and dealing with interest, late fees, etc."