vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"See my comment below about the official exchange rate. There is no ""official"" exchange rate to apply as far as I'm aware.   However the bank is already applying the same exchange rate you can   find in the forex markets. They are simply applying a spread (meaning   they will add some amount to the exchange rate whichever way you are   exchanging currency). You will almost certainly not find a bank that   doesn't apply a spread. Of course, their spread might be large, so   that's why it is good to compare rates. By the way, 5 GBP/month seems   reasonable for a foreign currency (or any) acct. The transaction fees   might be cheaper in a different ""package"" so check. You should consider trying PayPal. Their spread is quite small - and publicly disclosed - and their per-transaction fees are very low. Of course, this is not a bank account. But you can easily connect it to your bank account and transfer the money between accounts quickly. They also offer free foreign currency accounts that you can basically open and close in a click. Transfers are instantaneous. I am based in Germany but I haven't had a problem with clients from various English-speaking countries using PayPal. They actually seem to prefer it in many instances."
Just a regular bank transfer. Call your US bank and ask for wire transfer instructions. I've transferred money like that from US to Europe and back a few times. Usually fees were in low two digits ($15-$30), but depending on your bank account a sending and receiving side may charge a fee.
However, I have heard that bank transfers from US to private persons to Russia are not blocked. Probably it is good to find this out in advance. In addition, the US bank will most probably charge some standard fee for foreign transfer. After this, she should wait for a couple of days, maybe up to week for the money to appear on Russian account. I have done this once some four years ago, and had no problems, though at that time I was in the US, so I just came to the bank myself. The bank employee to whom I talked obviously was unsure whether the transfer parameters were enough (obviously this was a very unusual situation for her), but she took the information from me, and I guess just passed it on to someone more knowledgable. The fee was something about $40. Another option that I might think of is her US bank issuing and mailing her a check for the whole sum, and she trying to cash it here in Russia. This is possible, but very few banks do cash checks here (Citibank Russia is among those that do). The bank will also charge a fee, and it will be comparable to transfer fee. Plus mailing anything is not quite reliable here. She would also have to consider whether she need to pay Russian taxes on this sum. If the sum is big and passes through a bank, I guess Russian tax police may find this out through and question her. If it is withdrawn from a VISA card, I think it will not be noticed, but even in this case she might be required to file a tax herself."
A decade ago my main source of overdraft fees was due to the length of time between a purchase and the money actually being drafted out of my account; I just couldn't keep track of my balance at any given point in time without a ledger, which I wasn't going to keep. These days I have my bank account set up to text me whenever I make a purchase, and most of the time I receive that text within two minutes of receiving my receipt. It's much more up to the minute and I can keep easy mental tally.  Plus I'm much better off than I was when I was 20... #dictated
When I play Railroad Tycoon III, I often send my company deep into debt to get cash on hand to buy back shares, effectively increasing my ownership of the company as an absolute percentage. Then I issue massive dividends until my company goes bankrupt, and start a new company. It's a way to shuttle money borrowed against a company's assets into my personal bank account at no risk to me. In the MSFT case, maybe they think there will be inflation and this is a hedge against holding so many dollars in cash already. If they can borrow a couple billion in 2010 dollars and pay it back in 2015 dollars, they're probably going to end up ahead if all they do is buy back shares. Paying dividends with the money seems stupid vs. buying back shares - they're just driving up income taxes for investors.
"Here is how the Visa network works: A Visa transaction is a carefully orchestrated process. When a Visa   account holder uses a Visa card to buy a pair of shoes, it’s actually   the acquirer — the merchant’s bank — that reimburses the merchant for   the shoes. Then, the issuer — the account holder’s bank — reimburses   the acquirer, usually within 24 to 48 hours. Lastly, the issuer   collects from the account holder by withdrawing funds from the account   holder’s bank account if a debit account is used, or through billing   if a credit account is used. I read this to mean the Merchant's Bank (the Acquirer Bank) gives the merchant the money within 2 days via the Card Issuer's Bank. The issuing bank is the one that provides the ""credit"" feature since that bank won't get reimbursed until the shopper's bill is paid (or perhaps even longer if the shopper carries a balance). You'll notice the Credit Card company (Visa/MC/etc) is only involved in the process as a way of passing messages. Of course they take a fee for this service so seller ultimately get's less than the buyer bought the shoes for."
I closed an account with them for an unrelated reason (down payment brought account below minimum and I didn't want to switch types of accounts or pay a fee) and it was super easy. I was surprised at how quick the whole process was. That said, I didn't have a brokerage or even any CDs - just checking and savings and my automatic payments were tied to other bank acccounts.
When you create a liability account with an opening balance, this creates a transaction to the account Equity:Opening Balance.  You really want this transaction to be an expense. I would delete the TEST account and the transactions you have made so far, and start again.  Make a liability account (call it Liabilities:Overdue Cable Bill or something similar instead of the uninformative TEST) with an opening balance of 0, and create a transaction dated 01/09/14 which debits Liabilities:Overdue Cable Bill (showing up in the right-hand column as a charge) and credits Expenses:Cable (in the left-hand column as an expense).  To check that the sign is right, Liabilities:Overdue Cable Bill should now have a positive balance, because money is owed.  This indicates that you spent money you didn't have on cable, and now you owe the cable company. When you pay off the debt, make a transaction that debits (right column) Assets:Cash in Wallet  and credits Liabilities:Overdue Cable Bill (left column).  Now you should have a reduced balance in Assets:Cash in Wallet and a zero balance in Liabilities:Overdue Cable Bill, and the entry in Expenses:Cable is still there to indicate where the money went. This assumes you paid the bill in cash from your wallet; if you paid it by check or bank transfer or something else, you probably want to substitute Assets:Cash in Wallet with Assets:Checking Account or whatever is appropriate.
If possible, I would open a Canadian bank account with a bank such as TD Canada Trust. You can then have your payments wired into that account without incurring costs on receipt. They also allow access to their US ATM network via TD Bank without additional costs. So you could use the American Affiliate to pull the funds out via a US teller while only bearing the cost of currency conversion. If that option can't work then the best route would be to choose a US bank account that doesn't charge for incoming wire transfers and request that the money be wired to your account (you'll still get charged the conversion rate when the wire is in CAD and the account is in USD).
With only $2000 in the account, I wouldn't worry about investing it.  Instead, I would roll this over into a new HSA account with a different provider.  Find a provider that doesn't charge ongoing fees, perhaps with a local credit union or bank.  Although you won't be able to add money to it, you can withdraw as you have eligible medical expenses, until it is gone.
I just tried doing that on my PP which is in the Netherlands, I have added a USD bank account (from my dutch bank) and they sent the verification amount in Euros, I called the bank and wonder why they didn't let me choose account currency they said it's not possible and if I cashout Dollars that I have in my PP (cause we usually do international business so we set it to dollars) it will be changed to Euros, So we decided to keep the dollars in account to pay our bills instead of getting ripped off by PayPal in xchange rates.
Oxford Review makes a lot of sense.   You're right - I should start off with a small goal. I am planning to do a reach out to about 100 professors and kind of take it from there. Would you be interested in being an advisor?
Compared to a regular after tax savings account, there are several downsides of HsA: 1) many many fees by the bank - account opening fee, monthly maintenance fee, etc, up to $70/year 2) early withdrawal fee of now 20% of all the withdrawn monies. If you are in the 35% tax bracket, this will cost you %55 ---- they take more than half of your money if you make a mistake and must withdraw early for non-med purposes. There is no such downsides with regular savings accounts that are after tax. For more, see http://www.myvirtualschool.com/video/830/Attention:-Five-Secret-HSA-Account-Traps
I may be moving to Switzerland soon and would like to know if there's a similar system to move money between a Swiss bank account and a U.S bank account. There is no easy way.  The most common method is International Wire or SWIFT. These kinds of transfer are generally charged in the range of USD 20 to USD 50 per transfer. It generally takes 2 to 5 days to move the money. Some Banks have not yet given the facility to initiate a International Wire from Internet banking platforms. One has to physically walk-in. So if this is going to be frequent, make sure both your banks offer this. As the volume between US and Switzerland is less, there may not be any dedicated remittance service providers [these are generally low cost].
The sentiment is because between closing and opening a lot can happen, and between opening and the time your order actually goes through, even more can happen.  An after-hours trade has an extra amount of short-term risk attached; the price of a stock at the opening bell is technically the same as its price as of the closing the previous trading day, but within a tenth of a second, which is forever in a computerized exchange, that price may move drastically one way or the other, based on news and on other markets. The sentiment, therefore, is simple; if you're trading after-hours, you're trading risky. You're not trading based on what the market's actually doing, you're trading based on what you think the market will do in the morning, and there's still more math going on every second in the privately-held supercomputers in rented cubes in the NYSE basement than you could do all night, digesting this news and projecting what it's going to do to the stocks. Now, if you've done your homework and the stock looks like a good long-term buy, with or without any after-hours news, then place the order at 3 in the morning; who cares what the stock's gonna do at the opening bell. You're gonna hold that stock for the next ten years, maybe; what it does in 5 seconds of opening turmoil is relatively minor compared to the monthly trends that you should be worrying about.
So does Japan's.  Japan Post is a bank as well as a post office.  Which is something that would be a big boost to low income people who may have difficulty opening bank accounts.  USPS bank accounts could be a kind of default for people to choose where their paychecks are deposited, allowing people to avoid those awful, awful check cashing sharks.  Of course, the check cashing sharks have plenty of money to lobby against this, so it won't happen anytime soon.
Accepting cash isn't free to the merchant's either.  It needs to be counted, reconciled, stored, and taken to the bank each day.  There is a certain amount that needs to be on-hand, not in the bank earning interest. There is more of a worry about employees taking cash from the register.  There is the chance of inadvertently accepting counterfeit currency.   I'm not sure how the cost of cash compares to the cost of accepting credit card, but there is a cost that cannot be ignored.
Lapak judi is a gambling agency and also a well known agent site that is a football trusted agent. However, with this agency site the online gambling world is easy to approach as opening a gambling account is easy and they help you, but you should know the limitations about the rupiah currency transactions.
The spread is two trades, one of which opens up some risk one of which limits/cancels the risk.  There is nothing stopping you from selling part of the spread opening the door to the risk.  You're required to have a margin account to open risky positions, even if the specific spread trade you're attempting to open has a risk limiting/cancelling counterpart.
Basically speaking, Japanese bank accounts are identified by three numbers: The four digit Bank number.  For example 0005 is Mitsubishi Tokyo UFJ Bank The three digit Branch number. For example 001 = Main branch for Mitsubishi. The account number.  This is your account number. Your ATM Cash Card and passbook will have these numbers on it in the format XXXX-YYYY-ZZZZZZZZ.   When you use an ATM to send money to someone else (like your landlord) you but in these three numbers or use the search feature instead for the first two.  This works the same whether you are talking about Mitsubishi, Mizuho, etc.  The only thing to note is that while real banks use locations for the branch number (i.e. Ueno branch, Marunouchi branch, etc.), online only banks like Sony Bank (MoneyKit), Rakuten Bank, SBi, etc. use fake locations like colors, etc.  This doesn't matter much though. Japan Post bank is technically not a bank and uses a totally different numbering system, though recently they have come up with a strange formula to convert your JP Bank account number into a normal bank account number so you can send payments to it as shown above). All of this is basically for domestic transfers only, though.  If you want to transfer money internationally, there are two basic ways: The official way.  Go to your bank overseas, and give them the SWIFT code and account code for your bank (likely the branch code will be necessary as well).  The problem here is that they will likely charge a high fee for sending the money, and your bank in Japan may also charge a high fee for receiving it!  (In addition to any currency conversion fees).  A second problem is that only the very major banks even have SWIFT codes. Use a money transfer service that can handle both Japan and your other country.  For example, you can use 2 Paypal accounts (Only in the direction of From Japan To overseas, though!), or you can use something like MoneyBookers Either way IBAN is a European standard and isn't used in Japan. If you just want to spend some money in Japan, the most convenient way is probably a foreign visa debit card.  Or, you can use a foreign ATM card in Japan to withdraw cash and then deposit it into your Japanese account.
"Answers to your questions: (1) Do bank account numbers have a checksum. NO. (2) Is it plausible that they found out your number after sending you the money by ""accident"". NO. There is no way to find out who possesses a particular bank account just by the number. Also, how they even know they made a mistake? They targeted you and knew who you were and your bank account number before the ""money"" was sent. (3 and 4) Is this a scam? YES. They never paid you any money. They forged a check for a large amount and deposited it in an account. Then divided it up, wiring pieces to multiple people, all of whom they investigated beforehand. Since it is a bank to bank transfer it clears. Once the forgery is discovered, all the transfers will be unwound. If you had sent them money, you would have lost that money. Other things to note: There is zero chance of a wire transfer going to the wrong person because the sender has to list the name and address on the account as well as the number. You basically did the right thing which is to notify your bank that you received an unauthorized transfer into your account. Never accept money into your account from someone you don't know. If money ""appears"" in your account tell the bank it is an error and probably proceeds from a forgery and they will take care of it."
If the bank wants to close your account, they will do just that. Having a small ongoing balance isn't going to prompt them to keep it open.  Typically, the risk is for a card with zero usage to be closed, as it's a cost to them to keep the account open, and it has no revenue. To avoid this, it's a good idea to use that card or cards for a regular purchase, say, gasoline. A non-impulse buy, and just pay in full to avoid interest. There's no need to keep a balance accruing interest.  Keep in mind - A bill contains a month of charges. The bill for December is issued on the 31st, but due January 25th or so. When you pay it in full you do not have zero balance, you have the charges from January. This accomplishes your goal, will no interest.
My original statement was answering onefingerattack's query, not strategizing for institutional investors. It's very easy for instituationals to move money across borders into and out of treasuries, and to purchase gold near spot and vault it. For a retailer like onefingerattack, getting money into bitcoin is going to be much easier than opening a foreign bank account, exchanging, and transferring funds.  And my point wasn't to say that this was necessarily the best strategy because it is impossible to know. I just linked to an article about the fact that this strategy is being used by other Europeans (although, I think it's more by Greeks who worry about their Euros being nationalized and replaced with a drachma).
"Firstly, it isn't so generous.  It is a win-win, but the bank doesn't have to mail me a free box of checks with my new account, or offer free printing to compete for my business.  They already have the infrastructure to send out checks, so the actual cost for my bank to mail a check on my behalf is pretty minimal.  It might even save them some cost and reduce exposure.  All the better if they don't actually mail a check at all. Per my bank Individuals and most companies you pay using Send Money will be mailed   a paper check. Your check is guaranteed to arrive by the delivery date   you choose when you create the payment. ... A select number of companies–very large corporations such as telecoms,   utilities, and cable companies–are part of our electronic biller   network and will be paid electronically. These payments arrive within   two business days... So the answer to your question depend on what kind of bill pay you used.  If it was an electronic payment, there isn't a realistic possibility the money isn't cashed. If your bank did mail a paper check, the same rules would apply as if you did it yourself.  (I suppose it would be up to the bank.  When I checked with my bank's support this was their answer.) Therefore per this answer: Do personal checks expire? [US] It is really up to your bank whether or not they allow the check to be cashed at a later date.  If you feel the check isn't cashed quickly enough, you would have to stop payment and contact whoever you were trying to pay and perhaps start again.  (Or ask them to hustle and cash the check before you stop it.) Finally, I would bet a dime that your bank doesn't ""pre-fund"" your checks.  They are just putting a hold on the equivalent money in your account so you don't overdraw.  That is the real favor they do for you.  If you stopped the check, your money would be unfrozen and available. EDIT Please read the comment about me losing a dime; seems credible."
"Most answers have concentrated on this being a scam, however, it is possible this is an innocent mistake. Australian bank account numbers do not have redundant digits to be used to validate an account number; all of the numbers are data and uniquely identify a bank and branch (the BSB number) and an account (the Account number). Computer check digits are not part of bank account numbers because bank account numbers pre-date computers. It is entirely possible that someone entering an incorrect number can, by chance, hit upon an existing account. As the bank clearance system in Australia is entirely automatic there is no cross-checking of account numbers with account names. Internet banking in Australia is not a wire-transfer as is common in places like the USA (although these can be done): here you are effectively accessing your bank's ""back office"". Nor is it like the BPay service which is used primarily by B to C businesses as a way for their customers to pay their bills; when using this service the biller code will show you who you are paying and the customer number does have check digit validation. I run a business in Australia and it has happened to us on several occasions than an employee or supplier has given us incorrect numbers. Usually, it is not a real account and after a week or so the money makes its way back to us with a message like NO ACCOUNT or A/C CLOSED. Very occasionally, however, the wrong number hits a live account: when that happens the person who f*&ked up needs to contact their bank and try and get the transaction reversed. If there is money in the destination account this usually happens with little fuss, however, if the destination account has been closed or emptied things get problematic. Of course, taking money that isn't yours is stealing even if it happens to be sitting in your bank account. However, unless the sum involved is significant the police are usually not interested in diverting their attention away from ""serious"" crimes like homicide, armed robbery and terrorism so the aggrieved party is usually on their own. That said, this is probably a scam because they called you rather than your bank doing so. They cannot get your phone number from your account number: they have to know who you are and what your account number is.
You don't have to create a PayPal account in order to buy from a merchant that uses PayPal for processing their payments.  You can use your credit card just like with any other purchase. Creating a PayPal business account is, as you say, mainly for businesses wanting to accept payments, not make them.  PayPal doesn't require you, the customer, to have an account just to make a payment to a merchant.  We have dozens of customers a day make purchases through us using our PayPal account (we're small), and for them the main attraction to using PayPal to pay us is that PayPal has pretty good security and offers some very good customer protections against fraud.  They don't have to create a PayPal account just to pay us, though. When you create a PayPal business account, you link a bank account to it that they verify, then they issue you a PayPal MasterCard, which is a debit card that links to your PayPal account.  When you make purchases, if the funds are in your PayPal account (because, for instance, you're using PayPal as your merchant processor) then the payment is deducted from that.  If there's no money in your PayPal account then PayPal simply debits the bank account you linked with them, no differently than if you were to use your bank's debit card. In this instance, if you don't plan to use PayPal for merchant processing then there's no real reason to open a business account.  It doesn't have any advantages over your bank's debit card and, IMHO, just adds another layer of complexity and paperwork to your accounting for no identifiable benefit. I hope this helps. Good luck!