vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"&gt; The best teachers make hundreds of thousands, if not millions of dollars, in private educational institutions.  1. I am sure some teachers do, and that these teachers are far better than average. But teacher pay correlates with a lot of other things, like seniority.   2. ""Education"" is not just one thing, and it is sometimes closer to a private good and sometimes closer to a [public good](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_good). Education-as-status is a private good (which is why private schools can afford to pay prestige-bringing teachers a lot of money). Education-as-human-capital is in some cases also a private good (e.g., most of the benefits for graduate business education accrues to the student, so externalities are negligible); but in other cases it is probably not (e.g., it's better for everyone if everyone else is literate and numerate, so there are externalities involved in basic education). And civic education is an almost public good (the benefits of voting thoughtfully only exist if many people do it, and they are spread largely evenly throughout society).  Right now the government has a hand in funding all of these. This may or may not be a good idea (whether from the standpoint of pure efficiency or from the taxation-is-theft).  But in your opinion, which of the above educations could plausibly be funded adequately without taxation?  Edit: fixed link"
"&gt; What's their benchmark for considering the deal ""done""? Getting out employee checks with the name of the new company?   Well, there's usually about an 18-month consolidation window after the deal closes to combine operations before the market really starts wondering why you're burning through cash supporting a closed M&amp;A. That's going to include the removal and/or consolidation of redundant business units from HR, to marketing, etc.   From an IT perspective though, the business *usually* completely ignores the fact that modern white-collar businesses are essentially different formulations of businesses leveraging IT or severely underestimates how reliant they are on technology. That is, the consolidation of business units needs to include the consolidation of IT for economies of scale to be realized. It's fine and dandy to say your direct reports are being consolidated under business unit X but what if your HR program PeopleSoft and theirs is successfactors? How much time and money is that going to take to select the best system and get all of your shit in one place? Rule of thumb? 4x whatever the buisness thinks and 1.5x what the IT guy says. What about your identity platforms? What if, god forbid, you are an entirely IBM shop and the acquired company is entirely Microsoft? What about those old fuckin mainframes plenty of insurance companies and banks are keeping around? All that data needs to get moved/consolidated/etc.   I'm there to annoy the shit out of the business so when the board says ""did this ever come up"" our VPs and CIO can say ""yeah, here are the documents"" and then they start firing management. :D"
To be fair you are right in thinking that consumers will always try to find the best option, the point that people are arguing here is that this consolidation will likely push prices up in physical retail stores that specialize in outdoor goods.   Which kind of sucks if you like going into stores and browsing the isles because you are now going to have to pay a premium for that experience. Honestly, shopping online (esp. Amazon and eBay) is actually cheaper now for most things IMO, this is just accelerating the death of physical retail.
"Sometimes you need to do more than ask to have your rating reduced.  You need to make it in their best interest (no pun intended) to do it. Find the lowest rate card and then tell the others you want to transfer your balance to that card and close the account (don't do it, it is an empty threat). I guarantee they will transfer you to a retention agent who will give you a better deal.  From their perspective your current offer is getting 19% interest instead of 22%, why would they do that without some motivation? With the approach described above their options are get 19% interest instead of 0% interest. It is all about negotiation and the ""Retention agents"" have the most leverage to do so."
First of all, you need to tell Paypal people that you've changed your country of residence & your tax residency no longer is India. Then they'll tell you to create a new paypal account & get it verified. And then you can transfer the older paypal account money to that new paypal account & tell them to close the older paypal account. Then use remittance services to transfer to NRE. That's the legal process as far as I know, because Paypal would want to keep its records updated, or else it'd be against its Anti Money Laundering policy.
Do you know how many people end up with an 18-21% rate on their credit card?  They started off with low teaser rates.  There was an article about it recently on Yahoo.  Mainly this comes from a lack of discipline, or an unforeseen emergency.  However, lets assume, that you are a bit uncommon and have iron discipline. It comes down to a math question.  What is the rate on your student loan?  I am going to assume 6%, and lets say that you are now paying interest.  So there is 7 months between now an then, you would pay $140 (4000 * .06/12 * 7) in interest if you left it on the student loan. Typically there is not really a free lunch with the zero percent interest rate CC.  They often charge a 3% balance transfer fee, so you would pay that on the entire amount, about $120.   Is it worth the $20?  I would say not.   However, those simple calculations are not really correct.  Since you would have to pay the CC $588.6/month to take care of this, you have to shrink the balance on the student loan to do a true apples to apples comparison.   So doing a little loan amortization, you can retire $4000 on the student loan only paying $583/month, and paying a total of $80.40 in interest. So it would cost you money to do what you are suggesting if there is a 3% transfer fee.   Even if there is no transfer fee, you only save about $80 in interest.   If it was me, I would direct my energy in other areas, like trying to bring in more money to make this student loan go away ASAP. Oh and GO STEELERS!
"I'd lean toward using the $3,000 from the emergency fund although depending on your monthly bills, a $2,000 emergency fund (or even a $5,000 one) may be a bit small. But here are a couple of other options for you: Zero-interest balance transfers: If you have cards and have a zero balance on them, your credit card companies are keen to see you put a balance on them. Find out if they're offering any ""12 months no interest on balance transfers"" offers (or if any of their rivals is), since of course the car loan is an outstanding balance you can transfer (you're not asking them for cash). Put the $3,000 on that zero-balance transfer option, get rid of the car, and pay the $300/mo to pay down the balance on the card. 10 months later, two months before the end of the free period, you're at zero again — without dipping into your emergency fund. You'll also now have a history with that card company of paying back, which may lead them to attempt to entice you to go into more debt (which you'll resist, of course) by increasing the limit. (If you don't want a higher limit, just tell them to reduce it again.) A $3,000 unsecured loan with no pre-payment penalty provided the math works out. The interest may be expensive (unless you find something with a teaser rate for the first X months), but if you find an option, do the math on it to see if it's actually more expensive than carrying the car payments, insurance, etc. on a depreciating asset. It may not be as expensive as the 20% rate or whatever makes it sound (but again, do the math), and if you apply your $300/mo to it, within (say) 11 months you're clear again — with a nice little paid-back loan on your credit report. Both of these ensure that you still have your emergency fund at your disposal, and both capitalize on the fact that right now, you're probably a good credit risk. If you dip into your emergency fund, and an emergency happens (like loss of a job) and you find yourself short of funds, you may have trouble securing further credit at that point to cover the gap in your emergency fund."
Is the balance (in dollars, say) automatically converted to rupees when I try to: You can't transact on this account like you do on savings account. So there is NO ATM/Debit Card/Net Banking. You have to walk-in to the Branch and withdraw in local currency or in travel cards as required. Am I correct in understanding that a resident foreign currency account cannot have deposits made into it in rupees, say if someone wants to transfer money to me using IMPS? Deposits are restricted. See RBI circular
ISAs last for as long as you live - you can accumulate a further £20K each following year (or whatever the limit changes to) and the whole balance including gains is tax free. You can also leave the £21k in the first ISA, and open a new ISA the next year, if you prefer. You can also transfer a balance from one ISA to another (make sure you go through the explicit process for doing that, don't just withdraw it and re-deposit it, otherwise the protection is lost.)
After doing this many times, my preferred method is: The reason being that the US banks will use every chance possible to take your money in fees. Usually the German bank website will tell you what the current exchange rate. You were correct in selecting Transfer in $ and got the exchange rate. In my experience if you transfer in Euros, the US bank at the other end, will take about 3-5%, because they can. Selecting OUR means that you only have the fee taken out by the Source bank. By doing shared, it looks like both banks took their full fee. If you chose OUR, I'm fairly certain you just would have paid the 1.50 and the 20. Chase would not have taken the 15.
This depends in part on where you are. Sometimes signing over the title is all it takes to transfer ownership, sometimes more is involved.  Contact your local department of motor vehicles (or equivalent)  and ask them about how to transfer ownership, about registration (probably NOT transferrable), about license plates (you may need new ones), and about when the next inspection will be due (here, I think they gave me a grace period of one month to complete that even though it had been inspected for the previous owner two months earlier).
"There are only two things you can directly do with the money in an Amazon gift card: you can keep the gift card, or you can put the money into your Amazon account. There aren't any other options. You can't deposit the value into a bank account or anything like that. So, as far as safety, those are the only options you need to consider, because there's nothing else you can do. (Okay, there is one other thing you can do: you could sell the card to someone else, or barter it for something you want. But you can do that with anything.) The ""gift card"" is basicaly just a string of numbers and letters that you put into your Amazon account and it credits you with the appropriate amount of money. So yes, it can be stolen. If you haven't redeemed it yet, someone could find the code by hacking your email or looking over your shoulder or whatever. If they redeem it, you won't be able to do so. As for your edit: If I don't transfer the balance of the Amazon egift card to my Amazon account, can I transfer the balance to other accounts or use the card to buy other gift cards? If you don't transfer it to your account, you can transfer the balance to another account by giving the code to someone else and letting them deposit it in their account. You still won't be able to buy other gift cards with it, because you can't buy anything with it until it's deposited in an Amazon account, and once it's deposited in an Amazon account, you can't buy gift cards with it because of their policy. If you don't want the restrictions imposed by Amazon, don't buy Amazon gift cards; instead, just use your actual money to buy things. If you're worried about the cards being stolen, just deposit them into your account right away and you eliminate the risk of them being stolen. If, as you say, you bought the cards for yourself, there's no reason not to do this; presumably you bought them so you could buy things on Amazon, and you'll have to deposit them into your account eventually anyway to do that, so just put them in right away.
TD now has crossborder banking so you can set up a no-fee no-interest USD account with Tdbank.com and transfer money and pay bills in the US. You just need a minimum balance of $100. I might try Paypal before going that route though.
Just let it sit in your account (you could transfer it to your main account, if you like), and wait a few weeks. That way, if there is a problem with these payments and your bank insists on the money back, you will not be in trouble. If they send you more than they owe you and ask for some of it back, it will be a clear indication of a scam. Don't send them any money back. After a few weeks, you should be in the clear. Good luck. By the way, online gambling is a terrible idea. The fact that you don't trust the casino to pay out should tell you a lot about this industry. After you receive these winnings (or even if you don't), the best advice I can give you is to stop gambling.
"Read the terms by your Travel Card issuer. Travel Card cannot be used to transfer USD to an Indian Bank Account. You have to spend outside India and if there is a balance you have to request the card issuers in writing for a refund Salaries should not be credited on ""Travel Card"""
"&gt; I don't even have words for this.  I'm not surprised.  The ""you don't get to tell me what I can do with my money"" talking point has been hammered into American brains.  You would agree with most Americans that if the parents are in serious debt and pass away then the debt should not pass on to the child, yes?  It makes sense because why should the child have to pay for his parent's failures?  So why do you believe that debts shouldn't transfer but credits should?  If a child shouldn't get stuck with a parent's failures then shouldn't a child also not benefit from the parent's successes?"
The dividends on CD's typically get put back on the balance of the CD depending on the instition.  That money then becomes available to withdraw if you so decide, but if you leave it in the account you will earn more interest.  The interest is compounded off the total balance which includs any dividends that have been added in the CD.  You essentially only get paid out once typically on a CD which is the time of maturity.  After that you have 10 days to either roll this into a new cd and cash it out.  The dividends typically get paid out (or put back on the cd) quarterly, but it depends on the institution as well.   Try going to the following website to find out how much you will make.  You will need to ask your institution if they pay out monthly or quarterly first.  Put in the beginning balance, how often it's paid out, the interest, and months and it will tell you your ending balance. http://www.bankrate.com/calculators/savings/bank-cd-calculator.aspx My suggestion:  Stay away from CD's at this time. The interest rates are too low to bother with.
Can she send money to me in India through their NRI account? She can transfer the money to her NRE account and then to your Savings Account. Alternatively she can also transfer money directly to your savings account. There is no tax for this transaction in India as it is gift and exempt under gift tax act. If the amounts are large [run in quite a few tens of lacs], have some paperwork showing this as Gift. You can transfer this to son or doing anything you like with it.
"Yes you can. One additional ""advantage"" of getting the physical certificate is you can use it to transfer your account from one brokerage to another.  You get the certificates in the mail and then just send them to the new broker. Why anyone would want to go through this extra work (and usually added expense) rather than a direct transfer is beyond me but it is one additional ""advantage"" of physical certificates."
"The short answer is no, it's probably not ok. The longer answer is, it might be, if you are very disciplined.  You need to make sure that you have enough money to pay off the card after a year, and that you pay the card on time, every month, without exception.  There may also be balance transfer or other fees that only make it worth while if the interest rate or balance on the other loan is high. The problem is most of these offers will raise your rates to very high levels (think 20% or more) if you are even one day late with one payment.  Some of them also will back charge you interest starting from day one, although I have only seen this on store credit ""one year, same as cash"" type offers.   In the end you need to balance the possible payoff against how much it will cost you if you do it wrong.  Remember, the banks are not in the business of lending out free money.  They wouldn't do this unless enough people didn't pay it back in one year for them to make a profit."
I wound up asking Mint over email so I'll share the answer I received: Thank you for contacting Mint.com.  From my understand you want to know if Mint can transfer data to other   Intuit products and vice versa. Let me address your concern based from   what I can see on my tools. Upon confirming, while Mint and other Intuit products are under the   same company, Mint.com is not yet integrated to other Intuit products.   We’d like to thank you though for giving the idea to us. With this, we   would know which future enhancements will our customers appreciate. We have forwarded your request/suggestion to our Product and   Development team for their review. At this time though, we can't make   any guarantee that your request/suggestion will get implemented as we   must balance customer demand with resources and business objectives. Oops...
I would move some or all of the money. With £30K savings, you have a 20% deposit, whereas you can get a much better mortgage rate with a 40 or 50% deposit. That's true no matter how good/bad your credit rating, and it's possible that with a bad credit rating you may not even be able to get a mortgage with a small deposit. Also, you will almost certainly save significantly more by paying less mortgage interest compared to the interest rates on your savings in the Netherlands. Shop around for a cheap option to transfer money. I had a quick look at Transferwise (no affiliation, they just happen to have a convenient calculator on their website), and the all-in cost for a large one-way transfer seems to be about 0.5%. I think you'll more than make that back in terms of savings on your mortgage. If you intend to move back to the Netherlands at some point, then you are taking some exchange rate risk by moving your savings to the UK - you don't know if it'll be better or worse when you want to transfer money back. But I guess it won't be that soon if you want to buy a house, so I think the risk is probably worthwhile. (I calculated the cost of the transfer by converting €100k into GBP, and then converting the resulting amount back again. That left €99k, so a two-way transfer cost 1% and from that I deduced that a one-way transfer costs roughly 0.5%)
Does your current firm have a United States office or affiliate? That's the easiest route asking for a transfer or reassignment.   Super competitive for more senior positions with a direct transfer but you can have a shot a junior positions that you can then advance since you have some experience.
I want to transfer about 60 Lakhs INR from my NRO account in India to my US bank account  Yes you can. However there is some paperwork you need to follow. As per FEMA [Foreign Exchange Management Act], any transfer by individuals outside of India need the 15CA & 15CB form. The 15CB is from a CA to state that taxes have been paid on the funds being transferred. The limit is 1 million USD per year. Read more at Liberalized Remittance Scheme and here. What is the best way to transfer it with minimum fees/taxes Assuming you were already declaring the funds held in Banks outside of US in your regular IRS filings, there is no other formality. Question on Minimum fees service recommendation is out of scope on this site. Outward remittance can only be done by Bank Transfer.
i cannot directly tell from the provided information if it is already included in Net A/R but if there is a balance sheet you can check yourself if the Total Cash Flow matches the difference between cash position year 0&amp;1 and see if it is net or still to be included.
You have three options. If you follow the procedures outlined by the IRA trustee there should not be any problems. There will not be any taxes involved, unless as part of the process you change non-Roth funds  to Roth funds, or you don't follow the procedures. In my experience the IRA companies know how to handle the transfer. In some cases the check must be sent to you, and then you send it to the IRA company, but they will tell you exactly how the check is to be made out to. I would start by talking to the IRA trustee they are likely to have seen it all, and can guide you through the process.
"Do you know anyone in the US, still?  If so, ask them to close it for you.  $2.38 is well within the ""if anybody I knew asked me to I would"" range, and probably is for anyone you know well.  Offer to send them money via a wire transfer (or Western Union or whatever), but odds are if it's a friend or coworker they won't care about $2."
"Congratulations on keeping better track of your finances! Typically there will be a class of accounts labelled ""Income"", under which you will have a separate account for each type of income (stock dividends, paychecks, home appreciation, etc). In that case, showing your income would be a transfer from the Paycheck account to your Checking account.  Note that, as there are no offsetting transactions, this means your income account will steadily accrue a balance over time - just ignore this number, it's only the sum of all your paychecks.  There are methods of dealing with that number (and making the income account have a zero balance), but you don't need to worry about it at this stage.  Just learning to properly track expenses is the major accomplishment."
"I wouldn't trust ""about.com""; they're based on grabbing content from other places and are entirely unreliable. You can use the money transfer on PayPal, or transfer through a bank. I wouldn't give my bank account details to complete strangers, though. But that's me, with my distrust of the human kind."
It is allowed to transfer money between ISAs however you like in one year.  It does not count against the limit for how much you can pay into an ISA in a year, nor does it count as paying into two ISAs in the same year.  But make sure you transfer the money.  Don't withdraw it, then pay it into a new ISA. If your provider doesn't like you taking money out of one ISA while keeping another, then it's about time you found another provider.