vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"I don't have disdain for startups, I have disdain for charlatans. And I feel sad for people who believe that they really have a chance with their social network for dogs / ideal roommate to-do app / tip calculator / new marketplace to revolutionize how x and y find each other / etc -- a belief fostered by the totally dysfunctional startup tabloid media. And I'm pissed watching people who piss away years of their life on ""great ideas"" which could never in a million years be a self-sustaining business, and then shrug it away as if that ""failure"" couldn't have been spotted ahead of time, a mile and years away.   They wouldn't have thought that would ever be more than a fun hobby or a nice little daydream if it weren't for the tabloids.  As for something ""more likely"" it's quite simple -- people need to decide if they want to ""grow big or go home,"" or if they want to create a business.  A business creates value and charges for things. That is what I mean by ""more likely.""   The suits in the boardroom at Wal-Mart don't sit around wringing their hands wondering what their business model is, wondering how they can ""monetize."""
"Your bank has discretion to honor checks after 6 months, so you should talk to your bank about their specific policy. In general, banks won't accept ""large"" stale checks. The meaning of ""large"" varies -- $25,000 in NYC, as little as $2k in other places. Banks that service high-volume check issuers (like rebate companies) reject checks at 180 days. For business purposes, I think some banks will create accounts for specific mailings or other purposes as well. (i.e. 2011 refund account) The accounts close after a year."
I faced something similar for travel or work reasons, and as for me I preferred wire transfer over credit card withdrawals because my bank has huge fees. My thoughts so far are: the fee can vary a lot for credit card. As for me, I can expect 5% fees on foreign withdrawals. But I considered changing bank and I think a Gold (or premium) card might be a good idea as well. The idea is you pay a big subscription (100 euros or so) but have no fee. The total of withdrawal fees could easily (if you stay long abroad) reach this amount. There are also banks like HSBC that offer low fees on withdrawals abroad, you can ask them. The problem is that you cannot really withdraw huge amounts to lower the fee (since you carry this cash in the street). for wire transfers the total fee is usually $50 or more (I had a fee from distant bank, a fee for change and a fee in my home bank). But the amount is unlimited (or high enough to be of little matter) and I needed to do this once per year or so. So I guess it could be interesting if you have enough savings to only transfer money every couple of months or so. I think Western Union is also involved this profitable business. I never used it because the fees are pretty high, but maybe it is useful for not too big amounts frequently transfered. Actually, have you considered a loan? It's a very random idea but maybe you can use a loan as a swap and then transfer money when you have enough to reimburse it all. But the question is very interesting, I think the business is pretty huge due to globalization. It is expensive because some people can make a lot of money out of it.
Well I guess I'm going to throw a curveball from what others have said so far. I have an entry level FP&amp;A job at a medium-ish ($600M rev) size company. I use SQL all. the. time. We get a lot of data requests, and instead of shoveling them over to our tiny IT team who is more focused on development, we ourselves have to create and validate loads of SQL queries. For any recurring data requests, we throw the queries into a Power BI dashboard and do analytics off of it. My intuition is that smaller companies' FP&amp;A departments are going to overlap more with IT when it comes to data due to less rigidly defined internal structure, so knowing some of the tools IT uses can certainly help. Just knowing how to query company databases (if you can get access) saves days of waiting + back and forth with IT.  If you use SQL and Excel, you'll become familiar with power query, which is a useful timesaver for automatically transforming raw data. A natural extension to SQL would then be analytical software or programming like R. Companies like the one I work for are trying to figure out business intelligence, and we've implemented suites of PBI dashboards, which requires an understanding of Dax (which is only different enough from VB to be annoying IMO).  Be a wizard at Excel, which I'm sure you already know. Know how to apply conditional formatting 46 different ways, know how to quickly create and manipulate pivot charts in addition to being a god of pivot table manipulation. Know how to automate repetitive tasks. A big one (for me) is know how to do reconciliation quickly using Excel (FP&amp;A does a lot of recon at my work). Knowing how to cleverly apply and manipulate pivot tables and v-lookups can be the difference between spending 4 and 40 hours doing recon.  Note that these suggestions come from my experience alone.
Puerto Rico: Last I checked, the Puerto Rico banking system wasn't materially different than working within the US - though some Continental US banks exclude US Territories like Guam and Puerto Rico or charge more when dealing with them. I'm not certain as to why. However, most banks don't see them any differently than a regular US bank.  Regarding Wire Transfers (WT): $35 for an ad-hoc WT within the US and Puerto Rico is for the most part average. Wires cost money for the convenience of quick clearing and guaranteed funds. If you have a business/commercial account where you are doing this regularly and paying a monthly fee for a WT service, $10 - $15 each may be expected. I had a business account with US Bank where I paid $15 a month for a WT transfer service and reoccurring template (always went to the same account - AMEX in this case) and the transfers were only $15 each. But, a WT as a general rule, especially when it's only a once a month thing from a personal account, will cost around $25 - $35 in the US and Puerto Rico. As others have said, you can simply mail a personal check just as you would in the US. Many people choose to use Money Orders for Puerto Rico as they can be cashed at the post office (I believe there is an amount limit though). ACH: If you want even easier, I would use ACH. Banks in Puerto Rico use this ACH (Automatic Clearing House) system as we do in the Continental US. It will take a little longer than WT, but as you said - this is fine. Not all US Banks offer free ACH, but a number of them do. Last I checked, Citibank and USAA where among them. Banks like, BAC charges a small fee. Much smaller than a WT! This post may be useful to you: What's the difference between wire transfer and ACH?
Again a run through the actual paper might be intimidating (Lord knows I never read the paper from start to finish, but rather read text books which explained the concepts instead), so if you can find another source which explains the concepts in a way you understand, go for it. I consider this paper to be a foundation for other papers. Business economics is very important and while it may seem like it has a weak link to Finance at this stage; you have to grasp the concepts. Mr. Michael Porter's ""Five Forces"" is an excellent link between industry structure (introduced in Microeconomics) and profit potential (I work in Private Equity, and you'd be surprised how much I use this framework): https://hbr.org/2008/01/the-five-competitive-forces-that-shape-strategy There's another text I used in University which links the economic concept of utility and investment decision making; unfortunately I can't seem to remember the title. I'm asking my ex-classmates so if they respond I'll directly send you the author/title. To finish I want to give you some advice; a lot of subjects are intimidating at first, and you might feel like you're not good enough but keep at it. You're not dumber than the next guy, but nothing will come for free. I wasn't good at accounting, I risked failing my first year of University because of it, I ended up passing that year with distinction because I focused (my second highest grade was Accounting). I wasn't good in economics in High School, but it was my best grades in University. I wasn't good in financial mathematics in University but I aced it in the CFA. English is your second language, but you have to remember a lot of your peers (regardless of their command of the language) are being introduced to the new concepts just as you are. Buckle down and you'll find that none of it is impossible."
"If you've already got emergency savings sufficient for your needs, I agree that you'd be better served by sending that $500 to your student loan(s). I, personally, house the bulk of my emergency savings in CDs because I'm not planning to touch it and it yields a little better than a vanilla savings account. To address the comment about liquidity.  In addition to my emergency savings I keep plain vanilla savings accounts for miscellaenous sudden expenses.  To me ""emergency"" means lost job, not new water pump for my car; I have other budgeted savings for that but would spend it on a credit card and reimburse myself anyway so liquidity there isn't even that important.   The 18 month CDs I use are barely less liquid than vanilla savings and the penalty is just a couple months of the accrued interest.  When you compare a possible early distribution penalty against the years of increased yield you're likely to come out ahead after years of never touching your emergency savings, unless you're budgeted such that a car insurance deductible is an emergency expense. Emergency funds should be guaranteed and non-volatile.  If I lose my job, 90 days of accrued interest isn't a hindrance to breaking open some of my CDs, and the process isn't so daunting that I'd meaningfully harm my finances. Liquidity in 2017 and liquidity in whatever year a text book was initially written are two totally different animals.  My ""very illiquid"" brokerage account funds are only one transaction and 3 settlement days less liquid than my ""very liquid"" savings account.  There's no call the bank, sell the security, wait for it to clear, my brokerage cuts a check, mail the check, cash the check, etc.  I can go from Apple stock on Monday to cash in my hand on like Thursday.  On the web portal for the bank that holds my CDs I can instantly transfer the funds from a CD to my checking account there net of a negligible penalty for early distribution.  To call CDs illiquid in 2017 is silly."
"Create a meaningful goal for yourself which would distract you from impulsively spending all your money and help you to direct it towards something more meaningful. Maybe you're curious about just how little money you can live off of in one year and you're up for a challenge. Maybe you want to take a whole year off from work. A trip around the world. Or create a financial independence account, the money that is put into this account should NEVER be touched, the idea is to live off of the interest that it throws off.  I strongly suggest that you listen to the audio book ""PROSPERITY CONSCIOUSNESS"" by Fredric Lehrman. You can probably find a copy at your local library, or buy if off of amazon."
Just take it to a bank that will count it and give you cash or put it in your account.  Don't bother counting it and rolling it.  They will just break the rolls and throw it into a change counting machine.  I did that once and never will again after I saw that years ago.  The local bank I used for this offered it as a free service. You could also use those coinstar machines found in many grocery stores and various outlets, but they take like 8 or 9%.  Unless time/hassle is of concern, why do that when there are possible free options?
Once, back when I had a bank account, I tried to pay a large emergency dental bill with my debit card. It rejected it as it turned out the bill was less than a dollar over what I had in the account. I thought there was enough money so I tried again, 3 times. They charged me an overdraft for each attempt even though the debit never went through. This was without overdraft protection, as overdraft protection would have allowed the debit and charged me one overdraft. I don't know the details but federal regulations have changed how they do this.  To me overdraft protection rejects any debit that attempts to overdraft my account and doesn't charge me with an overdraft that didn't actually occur as a result of the charge being rejected, but that's not how it works.
As a merchant I can tell you that the only thing the bank gets from me.  Is the total amount and a category for my business.  No detail, not ever.
I use XE.com for almost the same purpose.  They have free transfer options, such as ACH withdrawals and deposits.  I normally do a online bill payment through my international bank to XE, and have them deposit it in the US via ACH.  It takes 1-3 business days, and there's no fee beyond their small percentage (about 1.25%) on top of the exchange rate.
I would have asked for the intended recipient's account number and pursue sending the money there. If it's the same as yours (except for one digit) that would be a good sign. But even here, the crook could send money to dozens of different accounts, all off by one digit, just to make it look authentic. I'm going with scam just to be safe. As for the checksum, it's used on paper checks (next to the last digit) but not necessarily the actual account. Credit card accounts use an algorithm, but online tools create as many legitimate character strings as you want. I used to work at a credit union, and when the time was just right, I opened account number 860000 (actual account number except for the second digit). All their account numbers were sequential, so the oldest account number was 000001. Sadly, many important systems are set up to meet the simple needs of the masses, and are easy to beat if you really want to. Check out If you dare hackers to hack you, they'll hack you good.
**Edit** to the people warning me what i'm doing is illegal, a few key points - 1) The public sector can't legally profit from anything, my job is to limit cost, not make a profit... which leads to... - 2) I'm not charging the government body I work for, it's a free implementation devoid of contract. I also ensured I do all the work on my own time, not company time. I live somewhere where most government employees work multiple jobs, so this isn't uncommon. In fact, my government body actually does often hire contractors who are also employed. So not only did I create the service on my own time, I gave it to my employer for free (other companies pay, of course) - 3) I don't live in the US, things are different where I am. It is certainly not illegal, and I would even argue that (given this is the public sector) it is even somewhat ethical. My work saved my employer (the tax payer) a significant amount of money, which is a net positive. The service is of high quality, and I did not break any employment agreements or laws in the process. - 4) I hired a lawyer to double check everything. - 5) I absolutely am not in any way using any proprietary information for profit. I'm not even using my contacts through work as leverage for sales - everything so far has been cold calls and positive references from other clients. This was a key part of the project."
I was having issues with transferring money from my UK bank (HSBC) to my paypal... HSBC was asking for an IBAN code to complete the transaction. I couldn't find an IBAN code listed anywhere on my Paypal acct. What finally solved it for me was when I entered the last 4 digits of the Paypal account number, HSBC then threw up a message saying that payee was listed in my payees and to do a search for payees. (I had never manually entered my Paypal as a payee, but it was there in a huge list of companies already known and listed by HSBC.) Then all I had to do was put in the reference number Paypal had given and the amount. It was in my paypal account within minutes.  Hope this helps :)
"It's a scam.  Here are the many signs: The bank will never ask for your password. They can access your account without it.  The bank will never use a customer's account for their own business. They have their own accounts.  ""Some guy"" is not a bank employee. Bank employees are people that you meet at the bank.  Banks do not hand out thousands of dollars for free to customers, especially customers with nothing in their accounts.  Even if you have no money in the account, this crook that you would give access to your account can do lots of illegal things in your name, such as writing bad checks, laundering money, running scams on other people through your account, etc. If you have already given your account info to this person, you need to go to the bank immediately and inform them. Since you have no money in the account, you should close it."
The key to a successful cold call is to figure out the one thing that keeps them worried at work.  Once you identify that, create a 15 second pitch and lead with that.  Also, make sure you do your research on the the company/person before the call and try to figure out how to quickly create rapport with them. I use social media to do find out as much as I can.
Then I add these up to say okay, here's how much I need each month to pay the bills. Subtract that from my monthly income and that's what I have for spending money. I get paid twice a month so I generally pay bills when I get paid. For most bills the due date is far enough ahead that I can wait the maximum half a month to pay it. (Worst case the bill comes the day after I pay the bills from this paycheck.) Then I keep enough money in my checking account to, (a) Cover any bills until the next paycheck and allow for the particularly large bills; and (b) provide some cushion in case I make a mistake -- forget to record a check or make an arithmetic error or whatever; and (c) provide some cushion for short-term unexpected expenses. To be safe, (a) should be the total of your bills for a month, or as close to that as you can manage. (b) should be a couple of hundred dollars if you can manage it, more if you make a lot of mistakes. If you've calculated your expenses properly and only spend the difference, keeping enough money in the bank should fall out naturally. I think it's a lot easier to try to manage your money on a monthly basis than on a daily basis. Most of us don't spend money every day, and we spend wildly different amounts from day to day. Most days I probably spend zero, but then one day I'll buy a new TV or computer and spend hundreds. Update in response to question What I do in real life is this: To calculate my available cash to spend, I simply take the balance in my checking account -- assuming that all checks and electronic payments have cleared. My mortgage is deducted from my checking every month so I post that to my checking a month in advance. I pay a lot of things with automatic charges to a credit card these days, so my credit card bills are large and can't be ignored. So subtract my credit card balances. Subtract my reserve amount. What's left is how much I can afford to spend. So for example: Say I look at the balance in my checkbook today and it's, say, $3000.
I checked my account right before lunch because i was still thinking about what i wanted to do for my B-day.  I had just got paid and my account was $30 and change.  I had also just written my rent check as well.  Some ass hat used my card and withdrew $300 at like 5 different atms(i'm assuming because they had different POS ID numbers) within like 5min. i didn't even know you could withdraw that much cash at once.  Needless to say i looked like a bum infront of my landlord who gave me the sure that's why your check bounced look and 1 shitty birthday sitting at home eating top ramen. And since it was cash i had to wait almost 2 weeks (seems like months when you have no cash and a dwindling supply of instant and canned foods) for the bank to replace my cash.  Yeah worst b-day ever.  edit.  oh and no i had no idea when they did it or how or where but the guy on the phone at the bank basically told me that it's happening a lot lately and asked my permission to file charges which i of course said yes to.
"Here are a handful of measures I take myself: I check my credit reports once in a while and look for anything out of the ordinary. If somebody calls me on the telephone claiming to be from my bank or credit card company, utility, etc. I ask for their number, check it, and call them back.  I don't give personal information to people merely claiming to be from a place I do business with. I never fill out ballots for free contests.  Most of the time these are scams.  When I get a call telling me ""you won a free cruise"" for a ballot I supposedly filled out at the mall, I say they're lying through their teeth.  For excitement, I'll sometimes buy a lotto ticket instead. I'm careful when I surf the web.  I don't give my personal information to web sites I can't trust.  If they look the least bit shady, I'm out.  Also, I use different passwords at different web sites.  I avoid using a password from a public terminal, but when I must, I change my password soon after. I'm careful when I download software.  I don't install anything I didn't get from a trusted source.  I pay for software when necessary, so finding a trusted source is not hard.  But, I've heard of people who – to save a buck – would download a pirated application from a shady warez site only to be ""gifted"" a trojan horse key logging or other spyware along with it. When I no longer need a bill, receipt, statement, etc. or any document containing personal information, I shred it, and I use a shredder that does a micro-cut, not just a strip- or cross-cut.  The micro-cut remains go in the green bin with wet and yucky organic waste. When I no longer need a hard drive, I use a secure wiping tool like Darik's Boot & Nuke before reusing.  If the drive isn't worth reusing, I'll wipe first then take apart with my Torx screwdriver.  Once I have the drive platter, I scratch the heck out of it.  Remains go to the community recycling depot. That's all I can think of right now; I probably missed a few :-) So, what do others do?  I'm curious, too."
"Selling an asset is not earning income. You are basically moving value from one asset (the laptop) to another (your bank account.) So you reduce the equity that is ""value of all my electronics"" and you increase the asset that is your bank account. In your case, you never entered the laptop in some category called ""value of all my electronics"" so you don't have that to make a double-entry against. The temptation is high to call it income as a result. Depending on the reason for all this double-entry book-keeping for personal finances, that may be fine. Or, you can create a category for balancing and use that, and realize the (negative) value of that account doesn't mean much."
DO NOT GIVE ME GODDAMN FUCKING SLOGANS. DO NOT GIVE ME TIRED ANALOGIES.  I asked for a plan, what do you do with a known disadvantaged minority.   As an aside, a shitload, in fact most of the people on fucking assistance do work asshole. I've been one of them. So, give me a solid start to a plan, you have a disadvantaged minority, already existing in poverty, sometimes with unemployment levels as high as 24% for the male population. How do you assist these people?  Edit: I in fact agree just handing people free shit won't work, but since the political options appear to be free shit or fuck off and die, I'll gladly vote for free shit for myself and my neighbors until somebody presents a decent plan.