vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"Checks (in the US, anyway) are only good for six months after they have been written. After that. under the US Uniform Commerical Code they are considered ""stale checks"" and banks need not accept them. My experience is that they generally won't -- but you probably shouldn't count on that, either when figuring out whether to try depositing an old check or figuring out how much cash you need to keep in your checking account to cover recent stale checks. The check you now hold is certainly a statement of intent to pay you and thus is a useful document to supplement other evidence that they still owe you the money -- but since checks can be cancelled and/or a replacement check may have been issued, its value for that purpose may be limited. You can try depositing it and see what happens. If that doesn't work (or you don't want to bother trying it) you can contact the retirement plan, point out that this check went uncashed, and ask them to send you a replacement. If they haven't already done so (you might want to check your own records for that), there shouldn't be any problem with this. (Note: Many business checks have a statement printed on them that they're only good for 90 days or so. If yours does, you can skip trying to cash it; just contact the retirement plan offices.)"
"But you aren't driving between your two jobs, you're driving for your job. The better analogy would be ""If I didn't buy commercial insurance, but was hiring myself out to do deliveried then my personal insurance better cover me if I hit someone between deliveries"" It doesn't work that way. There is a reason commercial insurance costs a lot more - when your job is to drive, your risk profile increases significantly. There are specific clauses in personal insurance that they aren't going to cover you if something happens while you are using your car for commercial purposes."
If you, your spouse (if filing jointly), or someone you can or do claim as a dependent didn’t have coverage for each month of 2015 you must either claim a coverage exemption on Form 8965 or report a shared responsibility payment on line 61. [...] So you cannot check the box and must report exemptions for your sister, or report a shared responsibility payment. Form 8965 instructions, Definitions, ""Tax household"": For purposes of Form 8965, your tax household generally includes you, your spouse (if filing a joint return), and any individual you claim as a dependent on your tax return. It also generally includes each individual you can, but don't, claim as a dependent on your tax return. [...] Your sister is part of your tax household regardless of whether you claim her, and you must compute her shared responsibility payment for any months she did not have insurance and did not qualify for an exemption."
There is no simple, legally reasonable, way for her to build equity by helping out with your mortgage, without her having a claim to your mortgage. The only 'equitable' thing she can do is rent from you.  If you want her to be building equity, have her start and fund a brokerage account for herself. If you have an affinity for real estate, have her buy REITs in said investment account.
"I really detest this ""sharing"" economy name. Its not. Its renting your meager possessions because you need the money.  In the case of uber, for example, its get a loan on your car by wasting it with extra mileage that you'll have to pay for in the future (maintenance - new car)"
Read the fine print and you will be fine.  The big caveat is that if you miss a payment for any reason, you will be in default as far as the promotional financing is concerned and will typically owe ALL of the accrued interest, which is usually computed at 20-25% per year. Personally, I use these sorts of offers all of the time at places like Home Depot for stuff that doesn't generally need warranty service. (Wood, tools, etc) Usually I pay the thing off over time as CDs mature. If I'm buying a TV, computer, etc. I always use my AMEX, because I get an extra year of warranty service and points for free.
Depending on your bank you may receive an ACH discount for doing automatic withdrawals from a deposit account at that bank. Now, this depends on your bank and you need to do independent research on that topic. As far as dictating what your extra money goes towards each month (early payments, principal payments, interest payments) you need to discuss that with your bank. I'm sure it's not too difficult to find. In my experience most banks, so long as you didn't sign a contract on your mortgage where you're penalized for sending additional money, will apply extra money toward early payments, and not principal. I would suggest calling them. I know for my student loans I have to send a detailed list of my loans and in what order I want my extra payments toward each, otherwise it will be considered an early payment, or it will be spread evenly among them all.
What people don't realize is that in many EU countries, you pay a per minute fee (even when on hold) when you call a support line.  Your printer broke and you need to call in for a warranty repair?  That will be 15 cents a minute.  They usually cap the maximum charge but it's often not free to call.  In The Netherlands, it's almost never free.    Also, when you buy something and it breaks under warranty, you generally can't return it to a store and they give you a new one.  Instead they ship it out for repairs.  I bought a new coffee machine in Germany for 80 euros.  It broke 3 days later and when I brought it back, they shipped it out for repairs and I had no coffee machine for a week.
I understand, and I'm not necessarily disagreeing; I'm just asking how we know this. It's one thing if it's a logical deduction you've made, but it's another if there's direct objective evidence. Do these statistics pertain to all car sales or just factory car sales? The car I own today is the car I've owned the longest, but it's not because I can't afford to buy another one, it's because I have absolutely no reason to. My car was made in 2000; it has 115k miles on it. I could write a long list of things that are still performing just as adequately as they did when it was new, and how aside from being somewhat less powerful it doesn't actually do anything worse than comparable new cars; I'll spare you. :) Cars in 1970 were never expected to be driven past 100k miles without major service work, including an engine and transmission overhaul. Many cars well into the late 70s didn't even come with that many digits on the odometer. The economic conditions you mention, including the astonishing transfer of wealth between classes, are not good signs and it obviously needs to be reversed or this country is going to be a really shitty place to live soon. And hell yes I believe it's affecting car sales. But I'm really not convinced it's the main reason car sales peaked 40 years ago. Housing sales only peaked a few years ago, and both markets have screwed themselves over-issuing credit, albeit in different ways. Point is, you don't need to be able to afford a car when you can get a loan practically at the push of a button; Americans don't think in terms of what something costs, they think in terms of what it costs *per month*. Income shrinkage has been allowed to happen because people have been allowed to spend money they don't have. I know people living paycheck-to-paycheck who spend $150 - $250 per month on just data. They also have $10k's of revolving credit card debt and, even worse, $10k's in student loans.
"DO NOT buy this car. First, I want to say I love BMW's. There's a reason why they call them ""ultimate driving machine"" and why other car manufacturers compare their new models to BMWs. I own 330i and I absolutely love it. Every time you get into the car, it just begs you to push and abuse it. Everything from steering response to throttle to engine sound. Awesome car. However... 1) BMW is not known for their reliability. I've had to do numerous things to this car and if I didn't do the work myself (i like tinkering with cars), it would be a pretty big money pit (and actually still is). German parts are more expensive then regular cars. Labor will run you if you take it for service. Right now my car is on jack stands while I'm fixing an oil leak, replacing cooling system components which are known to fail and doing work with the cam timing system which uses bad seals. 2) If you buy a used car which is 3 years old, just remember all the wearable items and everything that wants to break, will break 3 years sooner on you. Someone else already pre-enjoyed your car's maintenance-free days. At 60k-80k things will start to go. Ask me how I know. So you'll start paying for maintenance way before your 5-year loan expires. Compare this 330i to the Acura Integra I used to have. Acura (aka Honda) had 194k miles when I sold it and I NEVER ONCE got stranded with the Acura. 3) Fuel economy is not that good and btw you have to use the most expensive gas. 4) If you are really set on buying a BMW because you enjoy driving and won't drive like an old lady (my apologies to those old ladies that drive at least the speed limit, but you are not the majority), then still do not by this one and check out auctions. I bought my 2003 330i in 2005 for 21k when it cost over 40k new. You could probably find one with less than 20k miles on it.
"For me, the emergency fund is meant to cover unexpected, but necessary expenses that I didn't budget for.  The emergency fund allows me to pay for these things without going into debt. Let's say that my car breaks down, and I don't have any money in my budget for fixing it.  I really need to get my car fixed, so I spend the money from my emergency fund. However, cars break down periodically.  If I was doing a better job with my budget, I would allocate some money each month into a ""car repair/maintenance"" category. (In fact, I actually do this.)  With my budgeting software, I can look at how much I've spent on car repairs over the last year, and budget a monthly amount for car repair expenses.  Even if I do this, I might end up short if I am unlucky.  Emergency fund to the rescue! If I'm budgeting correctly, I don't pay any regular bills out of this fund, as those are expected expenses.  Car insurance, life insurance, and property tax are all bills that come on a regular basis, and I set aside money for each of these each month so that when the bill comes, I have the money ready to go. The recommended size of an emergency fund is usually listed as ""3 to 6 months of expenses.""  However, that is just a rough guideline.  As you get better with your budget, you might find that you have a lower probability of needing it, and you can let your emergency fund fall to the lower end of the guideline range.  The size of my own emergency fund is on the lower end of this scale. And if I have a true crisis (i.e. extended unemployment, severe family medical event), I can ""rob"" one of my other savings funds, such as my car replacement fund, vacation fund, etc. Don't be afraid to spend your emergency fund money if you need it.  If you have an unexpected, necessary expense that you have not budgeted for, use the emergency fund money.  However, your goal should be to get to the point where you never have to use it, because you have adequately accounted for all of the expenses that you can reasonably expect to have in the future."
As a car guy, I would question the wisdom of putting in a new (read - usually reman) engine into an 8yo car. Unless the engine is known to have longevity issues, I'd try to find a good used one, say from a crashed car, and swap that in. The labor part is going to be roughly the same obviously but if the cost of the engine halves, you might still end up with cash in your pocket. This mainly works if the cost of the engine is substantially higher than the labour, if it's the other way round get a new/reman engine with a warranty.
I don't understand why businesses that supposedly offer a legitimate product decide to host 3rd party code.  Is their actual product so worthless that they need the extra few cents from ad revenue?  And there are open source analytic packages that tell you how many times people click on things on your web page and how they were referred.  I don't see the reason behind relying on other packages unless you really need to compare yourselves to the competition-- which probably doesn't come up in boardroom meetings every day.
"Disclaimer: I'm not a tax professional, or an expert on S-Corps. However, I do have my own S-Corp, and my decision process for taking a distribution has nothing (directly) to do with K-1 past or present, or profit and loss.  If I have ""extra"" cash in my S-Corp, I take a distribution.  Assuming I do my taxes correctly, the money will be taxed whether I take a distribution or leave it in the business. So it really comes down to how much cash the business requires to continue operating and meeting its expenses."
I don't really consider algorithms a form of intelligence, as they are generally static in their outputs. AI would change the algorithm or would design a new one.  But I really don't know enough about this stuff, and I need to read up on it.
An expense is an expense.  You can deduct your lease payment subject to some limitations, but you don't make out by having more expenses.  Higher expenses mean lower profit. Is leasing better than owning?  It depends on the car you'd buy.  If your business doesn't benefit from flashiness of your car, then buying a quality used car (a few years old at most) would probably be a wiser decision financially. I'd think hard about whether you really need an up-to-date car.
If I do not have anyone in my car I am not getting paid. If I am not getting paid I am not working. It really is that simple. When you deliver packages you are getting paid to drive in between all points involved. FedEx drivers aren't insured on their way to work.
Who says that both parents have to work?  Also, why would you include that as an opportunity cost when a parent staying home can and often does save money from work clothes, lunches out, extra gas, car insurance for a second car, not to mention paying for and repairing a second car.  In the end, when I did my analysis for my own life, if I worked full time, I was going to be in debt to keep working.  My actual per hour pay when taking all of these things into account was less than $1 an hour. That doesn't even take into account daycare, days off of work for doctor visits, or anything else.  It is actually much cheaper for a woman to stay home and be employed in the home economy when she is not making at least $10 to $15 an hour depending on where she lives.    If my husband worked and I diligently tried to save money in other areas we were not currently saving money in, I would actually be earning my keep through home employment.  Things like sewing clothes with materials found, canning foods, baking, gardening, raising our own milk and eggs in small amounts, and recycling everything instead of tossing and buying new reduced our cost significantly.  Look even Elizabeth Warren says in this economy, that low skilled workers with less than a Bachelor's that want to have children would be better off doing it this way because of the price of everything.  It is tantamount to turning everything we have been taught on our heads, but it is true if you run the numbers.
You are planning on buying a car that is 50% of your salary. Add your student debt to that and your total debt is >50% of your salary. I would suggest getting a few credit cards to build up credit, but can you manage that? Buying a 25k car with 55k salary is overspending. Get a second-hand car for 7k or so. Plus, buying a new car is not smart either, from a pricing standpoint, if you really want a new car, buy one that is 1 to 2 years old.
Yeah, there are a lot of things that 'poof' you into existence with them. Their whole business model is that they claim to have dirt on *every* established business. And they basically do. Attempting to get a number with them is really only an issue for brand new businesses.  Regardless, they will send you very misleading spam and junk mail. And a lot of it comes off to me as threats/extortion.  They also listed my home phone number for one of my businesses for years. When you call for assistance, they really only care about tricking you into buying some package, and don't care about being helpful or correcting their records.  I know I sound mean, but honestly their entire sales method on me was to trick me into buying something I knew I didn't want or need. With multiple salespersons there. It's really scummy.
How often do you leave with less than 40 hours?  I've never worked in the US but in Ca, UK, and Au if I had to work an extra hour over my regular time(usually 37.5 not 40) I took 1.5-2 off depending on my position.  If I was on call regularly I came in late too if I was called or not.
I go in, grab my motor oil (one of the few items Walmart is significantly cheaper on) , go through the self checkout, and leave. I don't really care about the store experience or need my hand held to find an item...I expect most who shop at Walmart, even on occasion like myself, would feel similar.
From personal experience (I financed a new car from the dealer/manufacturer within weeks of graduating, still on an F1-OPT):
"I think the answer to how much you ""should"" spend depends on a few more questions: Once you answer these questions I think you'll have a better idea of what you should spend. If you have no financial goals then what kind of car you buy doesn't really matter. But if your goals are to build and accumulate wealth both in the short and long term then you should know that, by the numbers, a car is terrible financial investment. A new car loses thousands of dollars in value the moment you drive it off the lot. Buy the cheapest, reliable commuter you can ($5k or less) and use the extra money to pay off your debts. Then once your debts are paid off start investing that money. If you continue this frugal mindset with your other purchases (what house to buy, what food to eat, what indulgences to indulge in, etc...) and invest a bit, I think you'll find it pretty easy to create a giant amount of wealth."
"Just saying: I'm not a big earner, but I was able to live quite comfortably on one income with my g/f and our eldest girl. We had a reather cheap rent (house wasn't ""modern"", but central heating + warm water + clean is all one needs, right?) and we didn't have a car (so no big payments on that). I'm Belgian as well, btw.  We were able to live a very good life, without having to cut back on food or drink (I used to go out once a week even!).  But well, we didn't have a bigscreen TV. And no twice a year going to Spain or anywhere on holiday: we'd take the train to go to the Belgian coast or the zoo or whatever. As said: no car, but everything we needed was either in walking distance, or public transport, or bike. No car = lots of cash that would go to gas, insurance, taxes otherwise. But even with the one income (1500-1800 euro after taxes per month, depending on how many nightshifts), we lived a nice life. I smoked (still do) without moneyproblems. We saved a little each month. My little girl never lacked anything she could ever want. Not even toys, which aren't exactly a necessity...   Now that my g/f works as well, we were able to buy a nice house, and we're able to save most of what she earns.   TL;DR: Living on one income is possible, you just need to sacrifice some things you don't really need. Or be lucky."
I don't know where you live or what used cars prices are like in your area. Where I live, in Michigan, you can get a pretty decent used car for about $5,000. If I were you I'd at least look into whether I could get a loan for $4,000 or $5,000 to maybe get a better used car. Of course that all depends on how much money you will be making and what your other expenses are. When you're a little richer and better established, then if a shiny new car is important to you, you can do that. Me, I'm 56 years old, I've bought new cars and I've bought used cars and I've concluded that having a fancy new car just isn't something that I care about, so these days I buy used.
"Whenever I'm looking at whether I can afford a new fixed monthly cost I go over my account statement for the last three months (or last three ""normal"" months in the event that there has been something unusual recently) and list the items into four columns on an Excel sheet -  Fixed Essentials - costs that happen every month and that have to happen, stuff like rent, utility bills, insurance, any loans or credit cards etc Fixed Niceties - costs that happen every month but that I could cut if I needed to, stuff like Netflix, Spotify etc Variable Essentials - costs that I incur on an adhoc basis but are essential, I'm talking things like food, fuel etc Variable Niceties - costs that I incur on an adhoc basis but could be cut if required, things like buying DVDs or games etc I sum up the ""Essentials"" columns and divide by three to get a rough monthly average. This is what I have to spend so I subtract this from my monthly income which tells me what I really have available to ""spend"" in any given month. Performing the same ""sum and divide by three"" operation on the niceties and subtracting that from my ""available to spend"" figure tells me what I have left on in an average month - if this is greater than the new monthly cost I'm considering (allowing for some reasonable buffer as well - you don't want to be running to zero each month!) then I can afford the new cost and then I just have to weigh up whether I think it's worth it or whether I'd rather use that for something else. If it's not sufficient and I really want/need whatever the new cost is then I can start looking at the fixed and variable niceties to see if I can make savings there. If after trimming the niceties where I can I still can't afford it but still really want/need it then I'll start looking at the Essentials to see if there are ways to reduce them through switching utility supplier or changing my shopping/eating habits etc."
Amazon is already experimenting with a private label called Wickedly Prime. It's not that great. Expecting that to disappear if the WFM deal goes through.  I'm still waiting for Prime Pantry/Fresh not to seriously suck. Having to pay an extra membership fee on top of my Prime membership for the luxury of being able to get food delivered (and a delivery fee on top of that, mind you) really burns my ass. Not to mention the fact that when I tried Pantry, delivery took two weeks. No thanks.
Well the product is the Snoppa M1 gimble which had a successful indiegogo campaign a while back.   www.snoppa.com/mone.html (product page)  I don't want to share to much on the pricing, but I have a lot of room with pricing as I'm friends with the founder here in China. As for customer support and guarantee they cover everything with a 12 month warranty, and will be offering customer service/support directly. So it isn't something I need to be to concerned with.
Fluids, tires, spark plugs, bulbs, fuses, belts, and so on.   If anything breaks on my car I can find a million places with spare parts, can get then overnighted or picked up. No problem. If I have a mechanical issue I can bring it into just about any mechanic and they can fix it. Not really something you can say about any Tesla vehicle