vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
I was able to request a modest advance on my salary when I started my first job out of college, for essentially the same reason. Alternatively, you might consider requesting a small personal loan from friends or family. If you have a credit card that can cover things like grocery expenses for that period, this may also be the appropriate time to use it. Buy cheap food, like lentils and beans. :P In the future, once you earn some money, you should keep around a few months' worth of essential expenses in a saving account to avoid this situation. :)
"If you deposit the money in your account, it will count against the gift tax exclusion for you, not your daughter. As such, you should open a bank account for your daughter.  Assuming she already has a social security number, this will not be complicated.  Otherwise, apply for one, as mhoran notes before the end of the year. The kind of account you should open depends on the purpose of the money, but likely it should be opened as a Uniform Gift to Minors Act, or Uniform Transfer to Minors Act, account.  This means it is your daughter's account (not yours), but you designate one or more custodians who are the ones who can actually make withdrawals.  Any money in this account must be spent in your daughter's interest, but it's not required to be spent with her approval (even as an older child) nor on a specific thing (it's not just college money, like a 529 account is). Before you do so, you should consider how to set up custodianship.  Some parents simply make themselves custodians; some ask another relative to be custodian or joint custodian, or even someone like a godparent or close trusted friend.  Having a joint custodian is helpful if you feel like it may be challenging to not dip into the account if you had financial difficulties (as both custodians must sign off on withdrawals). Finally, you should consider whether you want this to be a simple bank account, or whether you might want to consider something like Vanguard or Fidelity investment account.  If it's likely to contain over $10,000 or whatever the reduced/no fee limit is at the investment firm you choose, it may well be worth your while to do this as you can earn significant returns fairly safely, assuming the money is intended for longer term use (for college or other later-in-life uses). Note that for tax purposes, this gift will count for 2016 taxes regardless of when you actually set up the account, as you have ""constructively received"" the gift when the check was given to you.  So there's no rush to work this out before the end of the year; you can still deposit it next year.  However, your daughter needs a SSN to be able to be claimed as a dependent on your taxes, so that at least needs doing before the end of the year."
I second the vote for GnuCash. It runs on Linux, Windows, and Mac. It is double-entry accounting, so there is a little bit of a learning curve, but it sounds like you should probably have something a little more powerful than Mint for your situation.
Just tell your bank where you're going so they don't lock your account, and then take your Visa, and take enough cash to survive if something happens to your Visa account (sometimes banks lock them anyways out of idiocy). I usually take about 600 bucks cash for a week excursion (enough for food and a shack, or a mansion if you're in Asia). I figure, I'm carrying my passport which is worth thousands to criminals abroad around my neck. Why worry about carrying a little cash. As far as the Visa goes, just make sure your bank doesn't charge enormous fees for currency conversion. As far as carrying the local currency goes. I don't recommend it. Just figure out the conversion rate, and you'll save about  5% of your money from fees converting to and from. If you're going to Russia, do convert your currency first.
So I been trying to think what the last thing I bought becomes of and ad, it was food. I saw and ad for a chick and waffles place that was opening near me and went and got some. But besides Facebook adds for restaurants I can't think of anything.
I've noticed Academy and Dick's Sporting Goods stores have been opening more frequently around my area, as opposed to just a couple Cabela's/BPS stores. I much prefer either Academy/Dicks for sporting goods. Similar quality, cheaper prices. I do prefer BPS for fishing goods though
"I was thinking the same thing, which is why they were for January, but I got nervous. I bought them for 1.20 (strike price of 15) and sold them for 2.35.   I know it isn't sound financially, but I have a separate account for wallstreetbets style gambling apart from my ""main"" investment account, and I treat them very differently.  I also won't dip into my main investment account to pay off my ""gambling"" account, so that SNAP position actually took up a majority of that smaller account, which is why I got nervous.   (On the other hand, if I made the same investments in my real account that I have in my gambling account, I'd be well on my way to a million right now, the gambling account is up 300% in the past 2 years, ""real"" account is up like 25%)"
"in undergrad business, you will have a broad scope of information to cover, and schools and professors will vary widely in how they approach it.  it will be hard to say for certain how you can edge out your peers before knowing what they are looking for. however, finance and business are intellectually nebulous, especially at the undergrad level. your best bet is to maintain a broad set of interests and stay well read on them.  i would recommend watching Bloomberg fairly regularly, opening a brokerage account and taking advantage of the reps you can talk to, and reading news like The Atlantic and Washington Post,  among others, as long as they are well reasoned and contemporary accounts. classic and modern economics books will give you superior frameworks in which to look at the ""smaller"" world of finance, which should set you apart from your peers as well."
"When I receive a check from a customer whom I previously sent an invoice, I go to the customer report for that customer, click on the link ""Invoice"" for that invoice, then click on the Pay Invoice button (very far right side). I then do a customer report and see that there is no balance (meaning all the invoices have been paid). I don't process invoices using the same method you do.  Instead I go to Business -> Customer -> Process Payment.  From there I can select the applicable customer, and a list of unpaid invoices will come up.  I've never experienced the issue you've described. On a related topic: are you posting your invoices?  From experience that has caused issues for me; when you post the invoice it should show up in your Accounts Receivable (or whichever account you've designated), and after you process the payment the A/R should go down accordingly.  When posting your invoice, you specify which account it gets posted to:  So that account should show a balance once you have posted it:  Then, when a client pays you, your cash will go up, and A/R will go down."
Maybe you should consider setting up a Taxpayer Identification Number (TIN) for your business dealings as a landlord and consider providing that instead of your SSN for this type of thing. I am assuming (if this is legitimate) they want it so they can send you a 1099 as they might be obligated to do if they are claiming the rent as a business expense. Also, I'd suggest having the tenant tell their employer to contact you directly. There is no need for the tenant in this situation to also get your SSN/TIN.
I have the PDF of Wells Fargo bank sent by my client which also quotes the SWIFT Confirmation #.  This is just the internal reference maybe from SWIFT terminal. It just means SWIFT received the message. Nothing more. What may have happened ? It could have got stuck somewhere in correspondent Bank chain. Or may have reached ICICI NY and they are not able to apply funds to your account in the ICICI India branch for whatever reasons. What are my next steps here ?  You would need to do 2 things; First contact your ICICI bank branch with this details and ask them if they can trace it for you. Second contact your client and ask them to raise a BCNR [Beneficiary Claims Non Receipt] for this transaction with Wells Fargo. Wells Fargo is bound to investigate this. Depending on your Clients relationship with Wells Fargo, there maybe charges of around 30-50 USD. This would trace the payment via Wells Fargo to the next in chain and can identify where it was stuck or when it was credited. What more information should I ask for The information in confirmation is quite less. Talk to your client and see if you are request for Sender Reference Number [This is preserved from Wells Fargo to your ICICI bank], BIC of Wells Fargo, Immediate routing [or sender Correspondent]; i.e. which Bank the payment was sent to [Wells Fargo may send it to other Bank and then it would reach ICICI]
I don't know of any financial account that offers that kind of protection. I'm going to echo @Brick and say that if you need that level of restrictions on the money, you should talk to a lawyer. Your only option may be to setup a trust. If you are willing to go with a lower level of restrictions on the account, a 529 plan could do the job. A 529 Plan is an education savings plan operated by a state or educational institution designed to help families set aside funds for future college costs. It will be in your daughters name, and has the benefit of being tax advantaged, unless its used for non educational expenses. Since your daughter is a minor, there would have to be a custodian for the account that manages it on her behalf. The penalty for using it for non educational expenses might suffice to keep the custodian from draining the account, and I believe the custodian has a fiduciary duty to the account holder, which would open them up to lawsuits if the custodian did act in a way that was detrimental to your child.
I'm an Aussie and I purchased 5 of these properties from 2008 to 2010. I was looking for positive cash flow on properties for not too much upfront investment. The USA property market made sense because of the high Aussie $$ at the time, the depressed property market in the US and the expensive market here. I used an investment web-site that allowed me to screen properties by yield and after eliminating outliers, went for the city with the highest consistent yield performance. I settled on Toledo, Ohio as it had the highest yields and was severely impacted by the housing crisis. I bought my first property for $18K US which was a little over $17K AUD. The property was a duplex in great condition in a reasonable location. Monthly rentals $US900 and rents guaranteed and direct deposited into my bank account every month by section 8. Taxes $900 a year and $450 a year for water. Total return around $US8,000. My second property was a short sale in a reasonable area. The asking was $US8K and was a single family in good condition already tenanted. I went through the steps with the bank and after a few months, was the proud owner of another tenanted, positive cash flow property returning $600 a month gross. Taxes of $600 a year and water about the same. $US6K NET a year on a property that cost $AUD8K Third and fourth were two single family dwellings in good areas. These both cost $US14K each and returned $US700 a month each. $US28K for two properties that gross around $US15K a year. My fifth property was a tax foreclosure of a guy with 2 kids whose wife had left him and whose friend had stolen the money to repay the property taxes. He was basically on the bones of his butt and was staring down the barrel of being homeless with two kids. The property was in great condition in a reasonable part of town. The property cost me $4K. I signed up the previous owner in a land contract to buy his house back for $US30K. Payments over 10 years at 7% came out to around $US333 per month.
"I would aim for 10% or less, because I believe 30% is where you start to get dinged on your credit score.  No one will know for sure, as there are many models, but 30% is brought up by radio host Clark Howard pretty often. Close annual fee cards or one store only cards.  Normally I would suggest ""leap-frogging"" your credit cards so that as you open a new one with no fees, you then close another that does have fees.  However I do not think opening lines of credit with an upcoming home purchase is a good idea.  It will reflect negatively that you are opening credit all over then place. I would shoot for such a low percent to make sure that the time it takes for reporting to happen will happen.  Also, as you gear up to buy a house, make sure your credit report is clean looking with all of these balances and cards you are considering closing."
Back to our example, let’s say your car increased in value $2k a year for two years and you decide to sell it for $19k - now we are about to realize some income! Since you bought it for $15k and sold for $19k, you earned an income of the difference, or $4k. Your income wasn’t $19k, because you originally put $15k in cash into the car. That cash was already saved from income you made in the past, and it is not counted again as income in this sale. Because you did not work for this new car sale income, but it was derived from asset growth, the income is called capital gains. You invested your capital ($15k) into the asset (car), and that asset appreciated. When you sold it, you received capital (money) back in exchange for that asset. The capital you received is more than what you invested, which is to say you gained $4k of capital by investing in and then selling your asset (car). Because you held the car for two years, you qualify for lower long term capital gains tax rate on that $4k. Had you sold it after year 1, you would’ve paid your regular normal income tax rate on those capital gains. Either way, you owe the tax when you sell the asset, not when it appreciates. I’m sure you realize this already, but if we change the car to amazon stock in my story, this is exactly how it works with investors. The author gets several things wrong 1 - amazon profits are not passed through to shareholders for income tax purposes. If amazon paid dividends, those dividends would be taxed at payout at the long term capital gains rate, and they would be paid out of cash amazon has left after it already paid corporate taxes on profits. Amazon has decided they can add more value to investors by using cash to grow instead of paying dividends. When the investors sell the stock, they will owe capital gains on the growth of that stock. If amazon is correct that using cash to grow, then investors will effectively pay more when they sell the stock than they would pay today if dividends were paid. 2 - asset appreciation is not income.
My local shopping store giant does 'online shopping', and by that I mean you can order your stuff, pay extra online etc etc, then another extra fee to reserve your time that you DRIVE TO THE STORE and pick it up. (and some times fill up So be quick, rofl)  I mean sure fills a small NICHE, but why do online shopping without delivery, especially when they are charging all the extra fees already.  I look forward to Amazon wiping these guys out.
The best way to save on clothes is up to you.  I have friends who save all year for two yearly shopping trips to update anything that may need updating at the time.  By allowing themselves only two trips, they control the money spent.  Bring it in cash and stop buying when you run out. On the other hand in my family we shop sales.  When we determine that we need something we wait until we find a sale.  When we see an exceptionally good sale on something we know we will need (basic work dress shoes, for example), we'll purchase it and save it until the existing item it is replacing has worn out.  Our strategy is to know what we need and buy it when the price is right.  We tend to wait on anything that isn't on sale until we can find the right item at a price we like, which sometimes means stretching the existing piece of clothing it is replacing until well after its prime. If you've got a list you're shopping from, you know what you need.  The question becomes: how will you control your spending best?  Carefully shopping sales and using coupons, or budgeting for a spree within limits?
Would you lend RadioShack money through the holidays? No, because the decline in revenue means there are no customers shopping in the stores and the cash flow will be insufficient to pay for the inventory. This is going to play out the same way it did for Linens 'n Things, Borders, and Circuit City.
Two adages come to mind. Never finance a depreciating asset. If you can't pay cash for a car, you can't afford it. If you decide you can finance at a low rate and invest at a higher one, you're leveraging your capital.  The risk here is that your investment drops in value, or your cash flow stops and you are unable to continue payments and have to sell the car, or surrender it. There are fewer risks if you buy the car outright.  There is one cost that is not considered though.  Opportunity cost.   Since you've declared transportation necessary, I'd say that opportunity cost is worth the lower risk, assuming you have enough cash left after buying a car to fund your emergency fund. Which brings me to my final point.  Be sure to buy a quality used car, not a new one.  Your emergency fund should be able to replace the car completely, in the case of a total loss where you are at fault and the loss is not covered by insurance. TLDR: My opinion is that it would be better to pay for a quality, efficient, basic transportation car up front than to take on a debt.
I think you can also order online and pick up in store at locations that don't have food delivery to your door.   It's actually a nice service. Do the shopping at home, see how much you're about to spend before committing and pay online. Then drove to the store, everything is bagged and ready to go. No more walking up and down aisles and being shocked at your total when you get to the check out.
You've got a great emergency fund built up and no credit card debt. That's something to be proud of. If you didn't already have those two things taken care of, that would be your first priority.  If I were in your situation, I would pay off the student loan. Yes, it's a low interest rate, but you've got the opportunity to pay it off completely and eliminate a monthly payment from your life. Take it.  I don't know if you've already contributed to your Roth IRA for this year or not, but I would set aside $11,000 to cover the max contribution to your Roth IRA for this year and next year.  That leaves about $10,000 left. Do you have any money set aside for your next car? If not, allocate most of this money toward your next car. When you need to buy another car, you will be able to pay cash and avoid a car loan.
I think that author does a disservice by writing such seemingly sensible articles without actually knowing how things work. If I didn’t know better, I would think this guy was teaching me something. It’s a shame he did not do research before he started writing. Let’s say you buy a classic car. You take super good care of it, all original, mint condition. You paid cash for it out of your savings. This is a balance sheet transaction that has nothing to do with income. You traded your cash asset for a classic car asset. Now let’s say this car is so rare and you keep it in such good condition that it gains value every year. Maybe it was worth $15k when you bought it, but this year it’s already worth $17k. Great job on making a great purchase! But is that $2k gain counted as income to you? No, it is not. The value of that asset on your balance sheet went up, but you did not make anything off of that increase in value because you have not sold it. If you had to pay taxes on the increase in value every year, those taxes would essentially force you to sell that car to pay the taxes just because you took care of it. Additionally, in the long term, no one would want to own anything, so this would destroy the value of everyone’s stuff, but I digress. In this example, amazon stock is the car. The author is seeing the increase in stock value adding to the balance sheets of the investors who bought the stock and confusing that with income. Back to our example, let’s say your car increased in value $2k a year for two years and you decide to sell it for $19k - now we are about to realize some income! Since you bought it for $15k and sold for $19k, you earned an income of the difference, or $4k. Your income wasn’t $19k, because you originally put $15k in cash into the car. That cash was already saved from income you made in the past, and it is not counted again as income in this sale.
The car you dream of might not be available in your local used car market.  Or if it is, there might be something wrong with it. Here are some reasons that a person might want to buy a new car.  Basically, if you have a picture in your mind of what your next car should look like, it is easier to shop for a new car: New cars are getting better.  Here are some reasons that a person might want a newer generation car rather than an older generation car: Cars wear out.  Here are some reasons a person shopping for a car might pass on a used car: In other words, there are good reasons to want a car that is either brand new, exactly two years old, or 3 - 5 years old.  The brand new car might be better than the old car ever was.
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"I'm from north jersey and not much of a gambler, so I'm def not their normal customer.  But I'm young(ish) and have some extra cash - they need to find a way to get me and my crowd. I think if they did organized trips, like party-buses drive back/forth, cheap/reasonable hotel room prices, and maybe some entertainment - I'd go.  And i'd drop enough money on shopping, restaurants, and booze to make it worthwhile.  One problem is that when I think ""what should I do this weekend?"", driving 3 hrs to pay for parking so I can gamble at a rundown hotel doesn't seem to come to mind."
Before everyone says he should just stay home, think of a one car household, much more likely in a rising market. Be trapped at home all night, or do one or two things you don't like along with that shopping that you needed to do anyway.   TL;DR: You get dragged places if you have only one car.