vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
A loan is most generally a liability, a part of the balance sheet.  Expenses & income are part of the income statement.  Income is the net of revenues after expenses. The interest is an expense on the income statement, but the loan itself does not reside there unless if it is defaulted and forgiven.  Then it would become a revenue or contra-expense, depending on the methodology. The original purpose of the income statement is to show the net inflows of short term operational accruals which would exclude new borrowing and repaid loans. The cash flow statement will better show each cash event such as borrowing debt, repaying debt, or paying off a bill. To show how a loan may have funded a bill, which in theory it directly did not because an entity, be it a person or business, is like a single tank of water with multiple pipes filling and multiple pipes extracting, so it is impossible to know which exact inflow funded which exact outflow unless if there is only one inflow per period and one outflow per the same period. That being said, with a cash flow statement, the new loan will show a cash inflow when booked under the financing portion, and paying a bill will show a cash outflow when booked under the operating portion.  With only those two transactions booked and an empty balance sheet beforehand, it could be determined that a new loan funded a bill payment.
Of course nobody would have believed me, that was the height of the bubble. Everybody was leveraged to hell thinking that housing prices would continue to rise, especially the people who bought houses they couldn't afford. Then when the bubble popped, there is this massive credit crunch and all of a sudden spending and investment dry up. Now there is near 0 interest rates and that still isn't enough to stimulate the economy, so inflation is very low and people are sitting on liquid assets because there is no sense in investing.
In general, prices are inversely proportional to rates; however, accurate interest rate prediction would make one worthy of managing a large credit derivative hedge fund. This is not to say that interest rates cannot go up in Canada since the world is currently undergoing a resource bust, and the United States has begun exporting more oil, even trying to recently open the market to Europe, both of which Canada is relatively dependent upon. Also, to say that Canada currently has the most overpriced real estate is an oversight to say the least considering China currently has entire cities that are empty because prices are too high. A ten to twenty percent drop in real estate prices would probably be a full blown financial crisis, and since mortgage rates are currently around 2.5%, a one to two hundred basis point rise could mean a nearly 50% decrease in real estate prices if interest payments are held constant.  Canada would either have to start growing its economy at a much higher rate to encourage the central bank to raise rates to such a height, or oil would have to completely collapse suddenly to cause a speculatively possible collapse of CAD to encourage the same. The easiest relationship to manipulate between prices and rates is the perpetuity: where p is the price, i is the interest payment, and r is the interest rate.  In this case, an increase of r from 2.5% to 4.5% would cause a 44.5% decrease in p if i is held constant.  However, typical Canadian mortgages seem to mature in ten years at a fixed rate, so i cannot be held constant, and the relationship between r and p is less strong at earlier maturities, thus the most likely way for prices to collapse is for a financial collapse as described above.
"According to the book of Hull, american and european calls on non-dividend paying stocks should have the same value. American puts, however, should be equals to, or more valuable than, european puts. The reason for this is the time value of money. In a put, you get the option to sell a stock at a given strike price. If you exercise this option at t=0, you receive the strike price at t=0 and can invest it at the risk-free rate. Lets imagine the rf rate is 10% and the strike price is 10$. this means at t=1, you would get 11.0517$. If, on the other hand, you did'nt exercise the option early, at t=1 you would simply receive the strike price (10$). Basically, the strike price, which is your payoff for a put option, doesn't earn interest. Another way to look at this is that an option is composed of two elements: The ""insurance"" element and the time value of the option. The insurance element is what you pay in order to have the option to buy a stock at a certain price. For put options, it is equals to the payout= max(K-S, 0) where K=Strike Price and St= Stock price. The time value of the option can be thought of as a risk-premium. It's difference between the value of the option and the insurance element. If the benefits of exercising a put option early (i.e- earning the risk free rate on the proceeds) outweighs the time value of the put option, it should be exercised early. Yet another way to look at this is by looking at the upper bounds of put options. For a european put, today's value of the option can never be worth more than the present value of the strike price discounted at the risk-free rate. If this rule isn't respected, there would be an arbitrage opportunity by simply investing at the risk-free rate. For an american put, since it can be exercised at any time, the maximum value it can take today is simply equals to the strike price.
I was in a similar (but not quite as bad situation) a couple years ago, and I had a stroke of luck that helped me, but your friend might be able to force a similar situation. My parents refused to take out the huge parent loan (understandably so), but my dad made enough money that I wasn't eligible for much aid.  My stroke of luck came when they got divorced; I could refile my FAFSA with only one parent (using my mom with very little income), my aid shot through the roof and nearly covered my undergrad (this happened in California, I don't know if this works in other states). My advice for your friend would be to take the 6 units/part time job option, but do what she can to earn enough to pay her own rent/food/other bills.  I think the requirement for filing as an independent is that you supply >50% of your own income.  It won't kick in right away, but for next school year this would end up getting her a lot more money from the state/federal governments.  For me it was enough to cover my school, food, rent, gas, car payment, and still have a little left over. (I don't know if this is still possible, and I know it doesn't work for graduate school, or if it applies to every state.  It might be an option worth pursuing though)
"I'm not dismissing anyone from the third world. I'm dismissing the hordes of unemployed kids my age who attribute my success to ""luck"" while they squander what resources and time they have on drinking, smoking and fast food. I had to eat cup-o-noodles every day for lunch for two years so I could afford textbooks without crippling myself with debt. I have a friend who's a single mom, lives with her parents, no help from babby daddy, and she eats at McDonalds three meals a day. She's literally spending more than my car payment just on food alone. Bear in mind her parents grocery shop and cook for her, she just prefers to eat out.     If you're from Darfur, sure you might be at a competitive disadvantage. But if you're a poor american, sack the fuck up. I came from a lower middle class family. My dad made ~$35k a year when I was growing up and my mom didn't work. I made it. My wife grew up in rural indiana, two hours from the nearest hospital, in abject poverty. She managed to get herself out it through sheer force of will and she makes more than I do now.      My *biggest* complaint about contemporary liberalism is the abandonment of the concept of personal responsibility. I'm all for eliminating systemic injustice but society simply can not function if we all feel entitled to a great job, a big house and an iPhone."
"3) NOT to claim her as my dependent. No additional tax return (since she is NOT my dependent), but also no penalty. My end of year balance would be $0 No. Not claiming her as a dependent does not save you from being responsible for her penalty. You are responsible for her penalty if she is your dependent (i.e. she meets the conditions for being your dependent), regardless of whether you claim her on your tax return or not. If you have the option of claiming her or not, then she is your dependent, and you are responsible for her penalty. 26 CFR 1.5000A-1(c)(2)(i): For a month when a nonexempt individual does not have minimum essential coverage, if the nonexempt individual is a dependent (as defined in section 152) of another individual for the other individual's taxable year including that month, the other individual is liable for the shared responsibility payment attributable to the dependent's lack of coverage. An individual is a dependent of a taxpayer for a taxable year if the individual satisfies the definition of dependent under section 152, regardless of whether the taxpayer claims the individual as a dependent on a Federal income tax return for the taxable year. [...] Form 1040 instructions, Line 61: [...] If you had qualifying health care coverage (called minimum essential coverage) for every month of 2015 for yourself, your spouse (if filing jointly), and anyone you can or do claim as a dependent, check the box on this line and leave the entry space blank. Otherwise, do not check the box on this line. If you, your spouse (if filing jointly), or someone you can or do claim as a dependent didn’t have coverage for each month of 2015 you must either claim a coverage exemption on Form 8965 or report a shared responsibility payment on line 61. [...] So you cannot check the box and must report exemptions for your sister, or report a shared responsibility payment. Form 8965 instructions, Definitions, ""Tax household"": For purposes of Form 8965, your tax household generally includes you, your spouse (if filing a joint return), and any individual you claim as a dependent on your tax return.
Plus healthcare/dental/vision  That's an additional $6,000/year (bringing her wage to $17.13/hour) for one individual. I'm not sure if Walmart covers family plans though but if they do, that's $14,400/year for a family plan (bringin her wage to $21.50/hour).  You always need to account for the benefits of a job. Taking a position that pays $14/hour with a full family plan is better than taking a $20/hour job with no health insurance.
"Probably she asked for some kind of registered delivery, someone asked her, ""what are the contents worth?"", in order to get a number to put into the insurance calculator, and she said ""$60000"". If that's true, meaning that if the letter goes astray, you can't get a new one issued, then yes you should insure it to the value of $60000 (or rather, since the insurance is so much, you should not post it at all. Your girlfriend could perhaps return it to her client and agree with them another way to transfer money). I'm also not sure what happens when a letter hits US customs with a declared value of $60000! However, it's probably not true. This is a check (or, if drawn on a bank here in the UK, a cheque), not a bearer bond. If it goes missing then (with some trouble and expense) she can almost certainly get another one issued. So the correct answer to ""what's this worth?"" is the cost of replacing it, not the amount of money that it instructs the bank to transfer. As for whether it'll cause a red flag for you, I'm afraid I don't know enough about US banking to say. Here in the UK there should be no problem with a cheque for that amount, unless one of the banks involved has reason to suspect money laundering or related financial crime, in which case they're required to report it. But if the cheque is from a non-US account and you're paying it into your US account, then maybe you need to make a customs declaration?"
"This might get closed as an ""opinion"" question. Tough to say up front.  You are kind to be willing to do this, and if just you and GF, it would be simple, split the costs the same as the ratios of your incomes. Say you have twice her income. You pay 2/3 of bills and she pays 1/3. In effect, you are subsidizing her, but this is often the case for working married couples, one earning more than another.  But, this will mean subsidizing the friend as well. In theory, he has 1BR, and should pay 1/2 rent, 1/3 utilities and common food, etc. If he makes 1/2 your income, and so does GF, for simple math, he'll pay 1/4 of rent and utilities. That's an emotional issue, will you be ok with that? You'll be subsidizing a friend, instead of having a stranger pull their own weight."
My friend is the king of Nigeria with lots of gold. He would love to sign up for your program. He usually pays commission in direct gold deposits to your bank account. If you are interested I can have him contact you and he will reach you directly.
"Another factor you may want to consider is insurance, if your wife is at their house as a friend who happens to be teaching the kid to play and the kid falls off their chair and hurts them self that is rather different to your wife being brought in to the house as a contractor and an injury occurring during an activity that she was supervising. I am in a similar situation and I have a $5 million public liability policy, which costs about $300 per year. So if her income is likely to be less than that she may be better off ""helping a friend learn"" rather than ""providing tutoring services"". There may also be legal requirements, I am required to apply for government checks every few years in order to operate a business that involves working with children."
I use my GPS and rush to pick my customer up (while obeying all traffic laws, of course). After a couple of minutes of chit chat I come to find out my first Lyft customer ever is an Uber recruiter. She likes my car and my approach so she hands me a Uber logo'd black bag with an iPhone, a car charger, and a mount. I asked her if this means I have to work exclusively for Uber, she says, ""Nope."" My eyes then light up like some medieval lights in the sky, chicken little for the peasantry, ancient aliens approved phenomena when I realize I'll have access to both customer bases just one week removed from not being able to pay my phone bill. After submitting a background check, a driving record check, and pretty much all the stuff Lyft asked for, I was driving for both Uber and Lyft a week after I was hired for Lyft. The good news for you the consumer is that both companies are being cut throat because they want your money! There's never been a better time to hitch a ride on the cheap. Both companies have thrown millions of dollars over the past couple of months through social media, driver bonuses, and other venues, so you're able to get a free ride or a deep discount off a long ride. If you haven't tried both services, now's the time. Don't want to risk getting a DUI just for driving down a couple of blocks to your favorite bar this weekend? You'll probably be able to get a free ride there (if you scour gently for specials) and pay between $7-13 for the trip back. Better than getting your car impounded, losing your license, and paying $10,000+ in penalties and court fees, eh? You have no idea how many poor saps I take to and from work who can't drive because they just got a D.U.I., and who are now plunking $25-35 per ride just to get to where they gotta go. **INSURANCE** As for insurance, both companies have given me supplemental insurance. I have full coverage on my car for when I'm off the clock (which was required at time of hiring, btw).
Do you really believe that your MIL needs to wring a car out of you before she would consider contributing to her grandson's well-being (which is, essentially, the interest)? But wait, it's NOT everything. Her daughter (my ex-wife) would drive it for 2 years and then turn the car over to our son. Even if your MIL is creditworthy, the woman you described as follows: Her daughter, though, is a loose cannon. Will be holding and returning the collateral in this deal. Things she can do include: So I'm arguing two points: Obviously my opinion on this is clear. I hope I did a decent job of explaining where the components of this deal (credit, interest, collateral) play out in the eyes of a dealer or bank, and get lost in the mechanics of the rules you worked out with your family."
It's true that most states have limits on what finders can charge if the listing is in state possession. If it is in the pre-escheat phase (that period of time before it goes to the state) then even if the money will eventually go to the state, the limits don't apply. Keane does a lot of work with transfer agents that handle the administrative work of stocks.  Other options that have a time limit include  I have a friend that was contacted by Keane. It turned out to be stock that her mother had when she worked for AMEX. She got busy with other things and got another letter from Keane. The stock increased in value and they wanted more money to help her even though they had already done the work of finding her. The money eventually went to the state and she was able to claim the full amount for FREE. If the suggestions I gave you don't get results, contact me through my web site and I'll try to help. Good luck!
"There is a lot misinformation in this thread that I'd like to clear up. In fact, you're more than welcomed to PM me if you wish to see any backup to the statements I'm about to make. First, I'd like to say that as an Uber/Lyft driver, the experience has been nothing short of exhilarating. I normally work in the L.A. and O.C. areas of So. Cal and the amount of interesting, super successful, and wonderful people I meet on a daily basis is off the charts. It's as if I'm some sort of talk show host on wheels. Initially, I applied for Lyft, as the social and community angle of its service intrigued the hell out of me. I'm an outgoing guy and I'm also an artist of some type who receives a royalty check only once a month. Instead of doing kickstarters and begging for money, I thought doing Lyft would be a great idea instead. So far my customers have been nothing short of an inspiration. Anyway, after passing a background check, a driving test with my mentor, a driving record check, alongside submitting all my documentation (license, registration, insurance) , and a quick vehicle inspection (my car is rather new and in great condition) I was hired quickly. That same day I decided to get to work quickly, see how the whole system works. As soon as I got to the destination I wanted to get to I got my first call on my phone within 5 minutes. I use my GPS and rush to pick my customer up (while obeying all traffic laws, of course). After a couple of minutes of chit chat I come to find out my first Lyft customer ever is an Uber recruiter. She likes my car and my approach so she hands me a Uber logo'd black bag with an iPhone, a car charger, and a mount. I asked her if this means I have to work exclusively for Uber, she says, ""Nope."
Birthdays are the most awaited time of a child’s diary and trying to make it special is every parent’s dream. So, if you have a daughter and you are planning a birthday for her and her girl gang, then ‘Spa on Wheels’ can be the best idea that can assure an exciting as well as glamorous treat.
"You say  Also I have been the only one with an income in our household for last 15 years, so for most of our marriage any debts have been in my name. She has a credit card (opened in 1999) that she has not used for years and she is also a secondary card holder on an American Express card and a MasterCard that are both in my name (she has not used the cards as we try to keep them only for emergencies). This would seem to indicate that the dealer is correct.  Your wife has no credit history.   You say that you paid off her student loans some years back.  If ""some years"" was more than seven, then they have dropped off her credit report.  If that's the most recent credit activity, then she effectively has none.   Even if you get past that, note that she also doesn't have any income, which makes her a lousy co-signer.  There's no real circumstance where you couldn't pay for the car but she could based on the historical data.  She would have to get a job first.  Since they had no information on her whatsoever, they probably didn't even get to that."
"There isn't a single rate that works in both directions.  There are two rates, one for each direction.  So if $1 = 64.23 INR, you may find that 100 INR = $1.55.   In fact, it's even worse than that.  The ""rates"" are just the average values at which transactions occur.  What happens in the real world is that someone (presumably your bank in this instance) offers to sell 100 INR for some amount, perhaps $1.56.  Other traders may either accept this price or refuse to trade.  If they refuse to trade, the bank may accept one of their offers, perhaps $1.55.   Anyway, the answer to your question is that whomever does the actual conversion keeps the ""difference"".  Of course, they may then lose that money if the value falls before they sell.  More confusingly, either your bank or your friend's bank could do the conversion itself.  Either or both could hold balances in various currencies so that they don't have to rely on the vagaries of the exchange market.  This is called a money market account, and banks let their customers invest in them.   It is a bit more likely to be your bank that gets the money than your friend's bank.  Your friend's bank doesn't actually need to know that your account is in USD.  They just transfer the amount in INR.  It's your bank that has to convert that into USD to deposit in your account."
Having been in the situation of commuting and working long hours at a low wage to just scrape by, I faced the following dilemma: I used all my income to pay bills and taxes and could not afford to go back to college to get another degree (or pay for distance learning). Even if I could afford to pay for classes, I couldn't figure out when I'd have the time to study because I was often only home 9 hours a day and needed to eat and sleep, shower and get ready for work. A wealthy friend of mine liked to read books about people who overcame great obstacles and she was sure I could figure out lot a way to improve my situation if I'd just try harder. One day I handed her a piece of paper showing my income after taxes and monthly bills and asked her to get back to me with a plan that would allow me to afford classes and give me say, an average of 6 hours of study time per week. She was happy to do it. Here was her longed for opportunity to show me it was possible to pull myself up by my bootstraps. After she studied my income, expenses and schedule, she decided she couldn't devise a plan that would work and she never again told me I wasn't trying hard enough.
&gt;  If you pick someone up and take them somewhere, you're a taxi. It's really as simple as that.  It's nowhere near as simple as that. If you pick up your friend, you're not a taxi. If you pick up a friend of a friend, you're not a taxi. If you're a livery car, you're not a taxi. Taxis are usually defined very specifically, requiring medallions, certain car models, certain behaviors (being able to pick up fares straight from the curb), etc.  And the donation thing has been gone for at least a year.  And these ridesharing companies tend to follow regulations where they exist, like in California's [Transportation Network Companies](http://www.cpuc.ca.gov/PUC/Enforcement/TNC/).  So, when you take the time to educate yourself about the issue, the issue tends to be less simple than you previously thought.