vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"I can see apprenticeships making a comeback.  I know of very few apprenticeships these days (I'm guessing most of them were replaced way back with certifications?)  The most obvious one is Tattoo artists.   To actually work at a tattoo place of business (not a dingy house basement), you must serve for a year under someone who is a legitimate, experienced tattoo artist.  You will make half of what the tattoo is priced and the person getting the tattoo is well-informed of who is doing the tattoo. Sometimes they get a discount because of it.   After a year, you are certified, and can begin working by yourself and setting your own rates, with a portion going to the business (you usually ""rent"" a room in a tattoo shop).   I'm sure these standards vary depending on where you are, but with economics turning the way they are, I think apprenticeships can cover some of the downturn we are experiencing. I'm not sure how much it would cover, but it would cover something, however small.  It also weeds out any dabblers who aren't serious and might otherwise produce terrible results."
And we're talking only about trumps tax plan which is at 15%. Everyone wants to pay less taxes doesn't mean it's affordable. The Fortune 500 need to fork up the money. You know what would save you money? Bailing out homeowners by taxing the Fortune 500 500b and dishing out refinancing 100k to 5m owners at 1% which will all be returned to the coffers. Borrowing more and more pretending like it's poor people's fault isn't solving shit.
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It may be a scam. But it also may be a company trying to find a person with the same or similar name. They may have followed a trail to her old address, and still not have the correct person. They bought number of old debts at a large discount, and are trying to track down any money they can find. It is best to ignore it, especially if they know it isn't their debt. If they start providing more proof then get interested. If they keep contacting them tell them there is no business relationship and they should stop.
I think you are addressing it the wrong way around. Insurance - in its basic idea - is supposed to protect you from exceptional and potentially life-changing financial situations; not from day-to-day cost. That means that covering the first 1000 $ is pretty much useless; for any serious sickness the insurance would be without merit. For example, it makes sense to insure your house against fire; the premium is small compared to the potential damage, which works because the chance of a fire is also small. If you extend a fire insurance to cover dropped glasses, or broken TV sets, it becomes quickly a bad idea - chances for these events are higher, so insurance cost go up (and the events are easier to fake too). Insurance should cover the large damage with low risk, never the small damage with more risk. The only reason the latter exist is that people don't understand it, and insurances make money on it, so they offer it. Apply this to your insurance idea, and the right way would be: Pay 50 $ to cover any cost over 10000 $; Pay 100$ to cover any cost over 5000 $; Pay 200 $ to cover any cost over 2500 $; And so on (all numbers are taken from thin air as an example). I would love if there is an relatively cheap insurance that covers anything above 10000 $ (or even a higher threshold); they don't exist because there is not enough money to make for insurance companies.
You may find it difficult to remove the PMI under any circumstances, banks will give you the run-around for quite a while hoping you get bored and continue to pay it. We got rid of ours by refinancing with a different bank, but at the time it was possible to get the new bank to pay all the fees if you worked through the right people, now it may be worth it to just keep fencing with the bank in the hopes that you run into someone with a little decency.
That depends on your health insurance. PIP will often cover your missed work as a result of an injury - which isn't a problem if you health insurance also does this but there is a chance it does not. What would you and your wife do for money if you became paralyzed?
Are you just turning in applications? Are you cold calling/emailing and trying to get a hold of managers and finding out about positions? Have you sent any cover letters to people?   Also, does your resume look aesthetically pleasing and is well organized? Are your skills highlighted well?  I feel like it can be pretty tough to get a job if you didn't get one right out of school.
Your basic point is correct; the savvy move is to use insurance only to cover losses that would be painful or catastrophic for you. Otherwise, self-insure. In the specific example of car insurance, you may be missing that it doesn't only cover replacement of the car, it also covers liability, which is a hundreds-of-thousands-of-dollars risk. The liability coverage may well be legally required; it may also be required as a base layer if you want to get a separate umbrella policy up to millions in liability. So you have to be very rich before this insurance stops making sense. In the US at least you can certainly buy car insurance that doesn't cover loss of the car, or that has a high deductible. And in fact, if you can afford to self-insure up to a high deductible, on average as you say that should be a good idea. Same is true of most kinds of insurance, a high deductible is best as long as you can afford it, unless you know you'll probably file a claim. (Health insurance in particular is weird in many ways, and one is that you often can estimate whether you'll have claims.) On our auto policy, the liability and uninsured motorist coverage is about 60% of the cost while damage to the car coverage is 40%. I'm sure this varies a lot depending on the value of your cars and how much you drive and driving record, etc. On an aging car the coverage for the car itself should get cheaper and cheaper since the car is worth less, while liability coverage would not necessarily get cheaper.
I think you just pulled that from your backside. I can assure you, a large amount of tax leaves the countryside and gets sucked into the cities. Besides that, most rural roads are in bad shape, as is the power infrastructure so tell me where is the subsidy? I also pay a fortune for internet, no subsidy there either. So your gloss over, cover all, statement is false.
Less shares outstanding means that, holding the dividend per share constant you would have a lower total dividend expenditure.  The more likely outcome is that, if you want to return capital to shareholders through a dividend, you just pay a higher amount per share.
"&gt; Well, first of all, how do you define ""executive,"" and how do you differentiate between executives who had a hand in ruining the company, and those that didn't?   If you're in a VP+/Director position, you don't get blindsided by this shit no matter what which division you're responsible for unless the company has serious communication issues -- which is a tell in and of itself.  &gt; Second, ""executives"" tend to be flexible, mobile, and have ""fuck you"" money. Turn off their salaries, and they'll just leave.  I don't find that a very compelling argument. It's the same as the old ""You can't tax the rich, they'll just move!"" argument, and should be solved much the same way. Okay, let 'em quit. Any stock options they have / other benefits get cashed out and applied to outstanding debts accrued under them before any payout reaches them. They can walk if they want, but they're going to feel it when they go.  &gt; I know Reddit has this fantasy where executives don't do anything but golf and drink all day, but you can't run a company with an empty C-Suite.   I don't pretend that they do, but by the same metric I don't believe that many are worth anywhere near as much as they get paid -- and especially not when they're producing results like this."
Didn't they also say a couple of weeks ago that the bank is doing just fine? Weren't there rumors of bank runs that Spain adamantly denied? Could this be to cover that up without causing panic? There are so many statements that could end with a question mark I don't know I can list them all, but it doesn't matter. The media will never give us answers until after the whole thing implodes.
"This is the kind of scenario addressed by Reddit's /r/personalfinance Prime Directive, or ""I have $X, what should I do with it?"" It follows a fairly linear flowchart for personal spending beginning with a budget and essential costs. The gist of the flowchart is to cover your most immediate costs and risks first, while also maximizing your benefits. It sounds like you would fall somewhere around steps 1 and 3. (Step 2 won't apply since this is not pretax income.) If you don't already have at least $1000 reserved in an emergency fund, that's a great place to start. After that, you'll want to use the rest to pay down your debt. Your credit card debt is very high interest and should be treated as a financial emergency. Besides the balance of your gift, you may want to throw whatever other funds you have saved beyond one month's expenses at this problem. As far as which card, since you have multiple debts you're faced with the classic choice of which payoff method to use: snowball (lowest balance first) or avalanche (highest interest rate first). Avalanche is more financially optimal but less immediately gratifying. Personally, since your 26% APR debt is so large and so high interest, I would recommend focusing every available penny on that card until it is paid off, and then never use it again. Again, per the flowchart, that means using everything left over after steps 0-2 are fulfilled."
Can you please expand on the Obama bailout BAC incurred in addition to the TARP and how much BAC has outstanding. I thought the only other assistance BAC received was part of the Making Home Affordable program, but that isn't meant to be recovered. [Here's a site that tracks every bailout program] (http://projects.propublica.org/bailout/programs/6-making-home-affordable). Maybe this will help you with your claim.
For understanding this you just need to know that the company put more stock into the marketplace... 9,303 - 4,652 == 4,651(,000) more shares to be exact. With the mechanics of rounding to the thousands, I would guess this was a stock split. Now. What you can also see is that the Capital Surplus also increased. 232,801 - 90,946 == 141,855. The 4,651,000 shares were issued into the market at an average premium of 141,855 ÷ 4,651 == $30.50. So investors probably paid (or were given by the company) an average of $31.50 at this split. Then, in 2011 the company had another small adjustment to its shares outstanding. (The Common Stock went up). And there was a corresponding increase in its Capital Surplus. Without details around the actual stock volumes, it's hard to get more exact. You're also only giving us a portion of the Balance Sheet for your company, so it's hard to go into too much more detail. Hopefully this answers your question though."
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Neither does he...  Opinions like that are why people hate the insurance companies.  There is absolutely no insurance company who sets out to cover negligence unless it's government mandated... I'd love to hear examples.  And I know there are crazy one off situations, where you can prove me wrong, but no company or industry could survive specifically to cover negligence, if there were, the premiums wouldn't make it logical.
"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](http://angrybearblog.com/2014/09/why-the-rich-hate-inflation-because-theyre-creditors.html) reduced by 78%. (I'm a bot) ***** &gt; So given an outstanding stock of trillions of dollars in fixed-interest loans/bonds, an extra point of inflation should transfer tens of or hundreds of billions of dollars a year in real buying power from creditors to debtors. &gt; While the 20% certainly have debts, they owe them mostly to themselves as bank shareholders, so The-20%-As-Debtors don&amp;#039;t benefit from the cheaper payback caused by inflation; it&amp;#039;s a wash. &gt; It&amp;#039;s roughly 3% of the 20%ers annual income from capital,* and only $6,000 a year for each of the 20 million households in the top 20%. But you can be quite sure that that number is at least one order of magnitude larger for households in the top 1,.1, or.01%. If the top 1,000 or 10,000 households perceive themselves as losing, say, $600,000 a year in real buying power for each point of inflation, are you curious why they hate inflation? ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6j48pa/why_the_rich_hate_inflation_because_theyre/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~151146 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."
Buybacks do not increase the company's value. Cash is traded for outstanding shares. This is similar to a dividend, but instead of cash, investors receive a rising share-price. Whether an investor prefers a cash dividend or capital gains is less important than the outcome that their investment is gaining value for them.
Man, that's some really important stuff when it comes to filling out a TPS report.  Which, BTW, now have a cover sheet.  Did you see the memo on the cover sheets for TPS reports?  I'll make sure you get another copy of that memo.
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"The Equity balance is your Assets (stuff you own) minus your Liabilities (debts you owe to others). It represents your ""net worth"" - how much money you would have when you would pay all your debts. When you want anything to show up in Equity, you need to make use of the asset and liability sheets. As long as you only manage Income and Expenses, your equity won't change. When you want to ""save"" money so the saved up money appears as an Asset and thus affecty your Equity, book it as an expense to your Cash or Bank asset account. For more information, check Chapter 3 of the GNUCash manual."
I would not advise you to go entirely broke in order to clear debts. You could use the cash you have to invest, or render some other services other students need in school while you raise cash from doing so.
I will never understand the logic behind this. If you buyback shares instead of funding pension liabilities... those liabilities are still there and any serious investor will factor that into the companies stock price.   I guess it's just easier to be a consistent dividend grower and cater to that audience if your outstanding shares decrease.
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Because a paying down a liability and thus gaining asset equity is not technically an expense, GnuCash will not include it in any expense reports. However, you can abuse the system a bit to do what you want.  The mortgage payment should be divided into principle, interest, and escrow / tax / insurance accounts. For example: A mortgage payment will then be a split transaction that puts money into these accounts from your bank account: For completeness, the escrow account will periodically be used to pay actual expenses, which just moves the expense from escrow into insurance or tax. This is nice so that expenses for a month aren't inflated due to a tax payment being made: Now, this is all fairly typical and results in all but the principle part of the mortgage payment being included in expense reports. The trick then is to duplicate the principle portion in a way that it makes its way into your expenses. One way to do this is to create a principle expense account and also a fictional equity account that provides the funds to pay it: Every time you record a mortgage payment, add a transfer from this equity account into the Principle Payments expense account. This will mess things up at some level, since you're inventing an expense that does not truly exist, but if you're using GnuCash more to monitor monthly cash flow, it causes the Income/Expense report to finally make sense. Example transaction split:
So the principle is true.  Assuming that you get paid bi-weekly, you end up getting three paychecks two months during the year.  Typically that is in January and July/August.  So if things were different, and your mortgage was setup so you paid half a monthly payment each paycheck, then you would wind up making one full extra payment per year.  Making that extra payment, most often, reduces the mortgage by 7 years on a 30 year note.   While true, many of these companies charge exorbitant fees for the right for you to do so, so the principal reduction is not commensurate with what you are paying.   You can simply do this yourself without paying fees.  On those extra pay days, pay half a payment to principal only, and no fee, no fuss.  This is pretty easy to do with most mortgage companies as they have online payments and it is just a matter of filling out a web form.  For me this does not even cost a stamp as they pull from my checking account at another bank.
I'm not sure why 84% equity should be the equivalent of a 50% share, but it may be a side effect of other expenses. Perhaps taking property taxes out would reduce the equity share. Note that if you increase the down-payment to 20%, your mortgage payment will drop substantially. The difference in interest between 3.5% and 20% equity is a couple hundred dollars. Also, you'll be able to eliminate any PMI payment at 20%. It could be argued that if he pays a third of the monthly mortgage payment, that that would give him the same 50% equity stake on a 3.5% down-payment as he would get with a 20% down-payment. The problem there is that then he is effectively subsidizing your monthly payment. If he were to stop doing that for some reason, you'd have what is effectively a 50% increase in your rent. It would be safer for you to handle the monthly payment while he handles the down-payment. If you couldn't pay the mortgage, it sounds like he is in a position to buy out your equity, rent the property, and take over the mortgage payment. If he stopped being able to pay his third of the mortgage, it's not evident that you'd be able to pick up the slack from him much less buy him out. And it's unlikely that you'd find someone else willing to replace him under those terms. But your brother could construct things such that in the face of tragedy, you'd inherit his equity in the house. If you're making the entire mortgage payment, that's a stable situation. He's not at risk because he could take over the mortgage if necessary. You're not at risk because you inherit his equity share and can afford the monthly payment. So even in the face of tragedy, things can go on. And that's important, as otherwise you could lose your equity in the house."
As the other answers suggest, there are a number of ways of going about it and the correct one will be dependent on your situation (amount of equity in your current house, cashflow primarily, amount of time between purchase and sale). If you have a fair amount of equity (for example, $50K mortgage remaining on a house valued at $300K), I'll propose an option that's similar to bridge financing: Place an offer on your new house. Use some of your equity as part of the down payment (eg, $130K). Use some more of your equity as a cash buffer to allow you pay two mortgages in between the purchase and the sale (eg, $30K). The way this would be executed is that your existing mortgage would be discharged and replaced with larger mortgage. The proceeds of that mortgage would be split between the down payment and cash as you desire. Between the closing of your purchase and the closing of your sale, you'll be paying two mortgages and you'll be responsible for two properties. Not fun, but your cash buffer is there to sustain you through this. When the sale of your new home closes, you'll be breaking the mortgage on that house. When you get the proceeds of the sale, it would be a good time to use any lump sum/prepayment privileges you have on the mortgage of the new house.  You'll be paying legal fees for each transaction and penalties for each mortgage you break. However, the interest rates will be lower than bridge financing. For this reason, this approach will likely be cheaper than bridge financing only if the time between the closing of the two deals is fairly long (eg, at least 6 months), and the penalties for breaking mortgages are reasonable (eg, 3 months interest). You would need the help of a good mortgage broker and a good lawyer, but you would also have to do your own due diligence - remember that brokers receive a commission for each mortgage they sell. If you won't have any problems selling your current house quickly, bridge financing is likely a better deal. If you need to hold on to it for a while because you need to fix things up or it will be harder to sell, you can consider this approach.