vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"For the most part, saving money usually depends upon having a budget and being able to stick to it. The toughest part of budgeting is usually setting it up (how much do I need for X) and sticking to it each month. In regards to sticking to it, there is software that you can use that helps figure out how much you are spending and how much you have left in a given category and they all pretty much do the same thing: track your spending and how much you have left in the category. If you are good with spreadsheets you might prefer that route (cost: free) but software that you can buy usually has value in that it can also generate reports that help you spot trends that you might not see in the spreadsheet. Sticking to a budget can be tough and a lot of what people have said already is good advice, but one thing that helps for me is having ""play money"" that can be used for whatever I want. In general this should be a fairly nominal amount ($20 or $40 a week) but it is enough that if you see a new book you want or what to go out for lunch one day you can do it without impacting the overall budget in some way. Likewise, having bigger savings goals can also be useful in that if times get tough it is easier to stop putting $100 a month to the side for a vacation than it is to cut back your grocery budget."
"&gt;taking your typical GP's advice regarding ""risks"" is really no different than listening to your barber --  If you _truly_ believe that, then go to your barber the next time you have a medical issue. You don't though, so stop talking out of your ass."
"I'm reminded of a conversation I had regarding food. I used the word 'diet' and got pushback, as I meant it in sense of 'what one eats'. That's what a diet is, what you eat in an average week, month, year. That list has no hidden agenda unless you want it to. If your finances are in good shape, debt under control, savings growing, etc, a budget is more of an observation than a constraint. In the same way that my bookshelf tells you a lot about who I am, books on finance, math, my religion, along with some on English and humor, my budget will also tell you what my values are.  Edit - In a recent speech, regarding Joe Biden, Hillary Clinton said ""He has a saying: ‘Don’t tell me what you value. Show me your budget and I will tell you what you value.’ "" - nearly exactly my thoughts on this.  For the average person, a budget helps to reign in the areas where spending is too high. $500/mo eating out? For the couple hacking away at $30k in credit card debt, that would be an obvious place to cut back. If this brings you happiness, there's little reason to cut back. The budget becomes a reflection of your priorities, and if, at some point in the future, you need to cut back, you'll have a good understanding of where the money is going."
Wish I could upvote this more than once. I built my company on my integrity and customer service. I have had numerous referrals through a few key elements such as * Showing up to every job ON TIME. you have no idea how much people appreciate it when you say you will be there at 1PM and show up at 12:56PM. * Breaking down what I am doing for the customer so they get a feel for what they are paying for (if they show interest, that is) * Eye contact, body language, and any other way you can exude honesty makes a world of a difference. I happen to be somewhat charming which assists me here, but anyone can do it.  I think these points have allow my business to grow faster than expected, and I am in a similar industry (electrical).
One piece of information you didn't mention is how much you paid for the original home.  If you hold onto that home for too long you will have to pay capital gains on the difference between sale price and original price. This can be a TON of money, thousands of dollars easily. The rule is: If you lived in a home for 2 out of the past 5 years, you don't have to pay the capital gains tax. So  if you just moved, you have 3 years to sell.  Perhaps as a compromise you can try renting it for 3 years and then selling it a few months before the deadline.
Have you checked the reviews for those products? I wonder if other people have the same complaints. TBH I don't know if there is a consumer protection agency that tests all the products for effectiveness and whether their claims regarding chemicals are in fact true.
"Here's what you need to know about Tinder, Facebook, Twitter, all of it.  If it's free... *you're* the product.  They are selling your info. You might think ""well what could Tinder have on me worth selling?"" and the answer is a metric fuck ton.  https://www.google.de/amp/s/amp.theguardian.com/technology/2017/sep/26/tinder-personal-data-dating-app-messages-hacked-sold  They approach companies. Companies approach them. It's business, and the product is your preferences and data."
You should never take advice from someone else in relation to a question like this. Who would you blame if things go wrong and you lose money or make less than your savings account. For this reason I will give you the same answer I gave to one of your previous similar questions: If you want higher returns you may have to take on more risk. From lowest returns (and usually lower risk) to higher returns (and usually higher risk), Bank savings accounts, term deposits, on-line savings accounts, offset accounts (if you have a mortgage), fixed interest eg. Bonds, property and stock markets.  If you want potentially higher returns then you can go for derivatives like options or CFDs, FX or Futures. These usually have higher risks again but as with any investments some risks can be partly managed. What ever you decide to do, get yourself educated first. Don't put any money down unless you know what your potential risks are and have a risk management strategy in place, especially if it is from advice provided by someone else. The first rule before starting any new investment is to understand what your potential risks are and have a plane to manage and reduce those risks.
You are correct, a possible Dead Cat Bounce is forming on the stock markets. If it does form it will mean that prices have not reached their bottom, as this pattern is a bearish continuation pattern. For a Dead Cat Bounce to form prices will need to break through support formed by the lows last week. If prices bounce off the support and go back up it could become a double bottom pattern, which is a reversal pattern. The double bottom would be confirmed if prices break above the recent high a couple of days ago. Regarding the psychology of the dead cat bounce pattern, is that after a distinct and quick reversal of prices from recent highs you have 2 groups of market participants who create demand in the market. Firstly you have those who were short covering their short positions to take profits, and secondly you have those who are looking for a bargain buying at what they think is the low. So for a few days you have the bulls taking over the bears.  Then as more less positive news comes in, the bears hit the market again. These are more participants opening short positions, but more so those who missed out in selling previously because prices fell too quickly, seeing another opportunity to sell at a better price. So the bears take over again.  Unless there is very good news around the corner it is likely that the bears will stay in control and prices will fall further. How to trade a dead cat bounce (assuming you have been stopped out of your long possistions already)? If you are aggressive you can go short as prices start reversing from the top of the bounce (with your stop loss just above the top of the bounce). If you are more conservative you would place your entry for a short position just below the support at the start of the bounce (with your stop above the top of the bounce). You could also place an order for a long position above the top of the bounce if a double bottom eventuated. A One Cancels the Other (OCO) would be an appropriate order for such a situation.
Plus you already have money in a 529 plan that is meant for college expenses (and cannot be used to pay student loans) - use that money for what it's for. I disagree with @DStanley, as a current college student I would say to take out loans. Most of the time I am against loans though.  So WHY? There are very few times you will receive loans at 0% interest (for 4+ years). You have money saved currently, but you do not know what the future entails. If you expend all of your money on tuition and your car breaks down, what do you do? You can not used student loans to pay for your broken car.Student loans, as long as they are subsidized, serve as a wonderful risk buffer. You can pay off your loans with summer internships and retain the initial cash you had for additional activities that make college enjoyable, i.e - Fraternity/ Sorority, clubs, dinners, and social nights. Another benefit to taking these loans would assist in building credit, with an additional caveat being to get a credit card. In general, debt/loans/credit cards are non-beneficial. But, you have to establish debt to allow others to know that you can repay. Establishing this credit rating earlier than later is critical to cheaper interest rates on (say) a mortgage.  You have made it through, you have watched your expenses, and you can pay your debt. Finish It. If you do it right, you will not have loans when you graduate, you will have a stunning credit rating, and you will have enjoyed college to its fullest potential (remember, you only really go through it once.) But this is contingent on:  Good luck,  EDIT: I did not realize the implication of this penalty which made me edit the line above to include: (to the extent you can per year) For now, student loan repayment isn't considered a qualified educational expense. This means that if you withdraw from a 529 to pay your debts, you may be subject to income taxes and penalties.Source Furthermore,  Currently, taxpayers who use 529 plan money for anything other than qualified education expenses are subject to a 10% federal tax penalty. Source My advice with this new knowledge, save your 529 if you plan on continuing higher education at a more prestigious school. If you do not, use it later in your undergraduate years.
...Hmm..Very fair point...I mean, this is theoretically what the earlier stated rule is for, but in this case, it probably wouldn't work...Maybe some sort of blanket exception for small/starting businesses, as certain places that have $15 minimum wages already have? Also, I should note that a teenager would probably be exempt from any such law in the first place, as they're already getting support from their parents and, thusly, already have a livable wage, as it were. This is why I mentioned that part earlier regarding part-time jobs, since people working such jobs already generally have another resource for basic needs.  I should note I'm about to go to bed, because it's midnight where I live. That said, this has actually been a very enlightening discussion. You've given me a lot to think about. I'll do some further research and, if you'd like to continue this discussion in roughly eight hours, that'd be just fine.
Well now your going to have to justify the amount of money a student has to pay to get help via phone/text.  The problem is you're trying to target only your school. Which limits your options. To add on top of it people are already providing it for free.   My honest advice would be to move on from this project. Unless you can provide tutoring for free then leverage the people you meet for another business.
Those are all predictions.  To the core. With anything, I'd consider the source carefully before taking any kind of advice.  If it's from a financial magazine, who advertises with them?  What are they selling?  How well do they recognize which side of the bread is buttered? That, and I'd get a lot of advice, see how it matches with your goals, and choose. All of that being said, you do have time to recover should you blow it.
You proceed with a proper legal advice. You should not ignore IRS letters. You should have taken your chances in trying to reach a compromise with them, but that ship has likely sailed already. You might want to consider bankruptcy. Ask your parents for a couple of hundreds of dollars to pay for a legal consultation with a lawyer and a CPA and proceed from there.
&gt; or their ability to purchase more or if you own a business you need the fire service to protect your business operating during/after a crisis as well as your home.  Then I'll pay for those services as I use them.  Not before.  &gt;except its much cheaper for everyone if it is all bound up together, and provided by the government.  It's not cheaper for me.  I don't have kids, no public school.  I work from home, no commuting.  It's a lose/lose scenario for me.  &gt;I understand the anti big government argument  I work for the government.  Many of the government services are valuable.  It's just seems more logical to pay for them as you use them, like every single other business works.  &gt;NO COUNTRY does it the way you are saying  Even more reason to test the experiment.  Let's give it a try and see what happens.  I'm sure I'll be fine.  &gt;I understand the anti big government argument  Actually you don't.  You just want free shit like everyone else.
Your wild tangents and attacks on liberal straw men demonstrate to me that continued discussion along these lines is futile. I have stated that it is a lesser evil to force business owners to serve the public without prejudice than it is to allow prejudice to thrive unabated in the private sector. You have said nothing regarding this point; you have only repeated your ideological stance that property rights are paramount without providing any evidence to show why this is preferable.
Unless they're the actual employers, the I-9 is none of their business. Your employer must verify your eligibility for employment on the first day of your employment, i.e.: when you find a job you'll have to fill I-9 anyway. The only reason I can think for them to do it is to verify that you're eligible for employment before they waste any time on searching for a job for you. I'm not sure if they're legally allowed to ask for your status, so maybe that's their way of working around that. I don't think they can require you to fill I-9, and in fact I'm not sure if its even legal for them to obtain that information without actually being your employers. IMHO, that is, consult with an attorney if you want a proper legal advice.
You're totallllllllly right - companies on social are mostly trying to make dough, but fuck me they royally fuck it up. Less than 1% of anyone liking a business' page are going to see anything the company posts. Yet here we are in 2017 with SME's still buying Facebook likes inventory as ad  objectives.   The fuck?  When you hook your PPC into analytics and you run your hotjar and then see who's buying, who's abandoning and WHY - then you have a potent force for remarketing and ultimately selling stuff successfully via social.   But as you say, most companies still going for organic social traffic which jusssssst ain't going to happen.  Pay to play. &lt;shrugs&gt;  Good convo with you man - appreciate a good Reddit yarn like this.
You mention receiving SS disability, so you may be eligible for that exclusion. Regarding what kinds of disabilities qualifies for those exclusions, Maryland states that: To be considered totally disabled, you must have a mental or physical impairment which prevents you from engaging in substantial gainful activity. You must expect the impairment to be of long, continued or indefinite duration or to result in your death. You must attach to your return a certification from a qualified physician stating the nature of your impairment and that you are totally disabled. If you have previously submitted a physician’s certification, attach your own statement that you are still totally disabled and that a physician’s certification was submitted before. If you feel you would qualify for that exclusion (and have the required supporting evidence), fill out the relevant table and include the result on line 10 of your Maryland tax return. In the future, to avoid a large state tax bill due to inadequate withholding on pension funds, OPM provides a web service which allows you to specify state tax withholding amounts on pension distributions.
The insurance company is must assume you do have a preexisting condition you are unaware of.  The reason for that is that Affordable Care Act precludes the Insurance company from denying coverage of them if you do.  Insurance companies are businesses.  They are in business to make money(unless you have a nonprofit insurer).  They can not do that if you can buy insurance only when you need for them to pay out.  So even though you may not have a preexisting condition, they are precluded from requiring an examination that would detect the most expensive preexisting conditions (hidden cancers, neurological, autoimmune disorders).  So the companies must do what takes business sense and either deny you coverage or charge a rate that covers the risk they would be forced to take.   In your question on travel there was a response that suggested you get international health insurance instead of travel health insurance that would be considered credible coverage.  You are trying to save money which on a personal level is a good idea.  However that is against the societal and business need that you maintain health coverage during your healthy times to cover the costs of those who need expensive treatment.  So you will be monetarily penalized should you choose to reenter the society of insured people.  Once you have paid the higher rate for up to 18 months you should be able to get a better policy for people who have had continuous coverage.  Alternately you may be lucky enough to start working for a company that provides health insurance with out requiring continuous coverage.
There's a legal system that will help you get it from them if they truly do owe it to you."" I guarantee you this, withdrawing funds from an account on which you are NOT an authorized signatory is both financial theft as well as identity theft. Bonus if you do it on a computer, because you'd then be facing criminal charges that go beyond your specific legal district, i.e. you'd face criminal charges on a national level. If convicted, odds are you'd be sentenced within the penal guidelines of the Netherlands 1983 Financial Penalties Act (FPA). Ergo, you would have much much much less money in the very near future, which would feel like an eternal walk through the Hell of the court system. Ultimately, over your lifetime you would be exponentially poorer than you may think you are now. I strongly urge you to rebrand this ""financial loss"" as ""Tuition at the School of Hard Knocks"". There's one last thing... the train jumps the tracks for me during your story... This guy called you? Right?... (raised eyebrow) What kind of business do you ""have""? The sense of desperation and naiveté in your urgent need for money to pay rent. The fact that you are accepting payment for services by conducting a bank transfer specifically from your clients account directly toward your own utility bills is a big red flag. Bypassing business accounting and using revenue for personal finances isn't legitimate business practices. Plus you are doing it by using the bank information of brand new client who is a TOTAL stranger. Now consider fact that this total stranger was so exceedingly generous to someone from whom he wanted personal services to be rendered. Those all tell me that he's doing something he wants the other person to do for him and he doesn't want anyone else to know. The fact that he's being so benevolent like a 'sugar daddy' tells me that he feels guilty for having someone do what he's asking them to do. Perceived financial superiority is the smoothest of smooth power tools that predators and abusers have in their bag.
Keep in mind that credit takes time to build.   Your best short-term solution is to save enough cash to put enough of a down-payment that the lower loan-to-value ratio outweighs the lack of credit history.  If there's enough equity to ensure that the bank will get their money back if they have to foreclose, you will have a better chance of securing financing. In addition, the stability and consistency of your employment may also be a factor that makes it difficult for you to get a loan without a substantial down-payment. Finally, don't ignore the risk present in resting a property that you have a loan on.  Make sure you have a plan in place to pay your payments if the other half goes unrented for several months, or you risk losing the entire property. My advice is to rent somewhere else for enough time that you can save up a lot of cash to purchase a duplex rather than getting in a rush and doing something unwise (like apply for a bunch of credit cards you don't need).
Usually, a financial advisor makes his money by selling financial investments.  Thus, almost anyone you talk to is going to try to get you to be investment products, which is not what you need to be doing at this point.   You should be focusing on paying off all your debt first, before doing any investment.  The interest you are paying on credit cards is most likely much more than the money you could get from any type of investment.  However, once you have your consumer debt paid off, I recommend talking to any friends, co-workers, or other professional advisors you have (such as attorneys or accountants).  When you ask such people for the referrals, find out how much debt they have, how much they are investing.  Pay closer attention to those with a higher net worth. Otherwise, you may be getting advice from someone fooled by the same sort of financial advisor you are trying to avoid.
No rep from amazon has ever stroked my ego, so I don’t know what you mean.   And as far as “reps” go - people who help you with products beyond paint and decor rarely understand what they are selling - hence the “1 guy” they all depend on, vs the staff at a home store in Japan who all work in areas they know.   So.. what exclusives? Are you buying tractors or some shit? Forklifts full of A-C subfloor?   If you are buying enough to save “hundreds of dollars” at a time, I assume you are a contractor, and you a) should already know your shit, so reps are just there to prepare paperwork, and b) missing the point of what I am saying.   If I call a parts supply warehouse and ask them for a [661-8124](http://www.powerbookmedic.com/parts/661-8124/Logic-Board-35GHz-Core-i7-Quad-Core-4GB.html), I’m not going to ask them what model it goes in or how to install it. The rep’s competence could easily be replaced by Amazon.   If I have A broken Mac, I want to go to a store where they know how to fix it and give me advice, and in that manner Home Depot often falls flat.   So they will eventually get their hat handed to them - because eventually Amazon will beat them in distribution and they won’t have the volume to warrant a chain of stores to draw foot traffic.