vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
The tax savings of being 1099 can be significant.  It depends on your salary, and what you can deduct.  You may want to consult with an accountant.   The social security tax, for the self employed, is 12.4% of profit not on revenue.  If you can write off more than half of the income as expenses then you could be paying less than a w-2 employee. Also you might make a higher salary as a 1099, it is rare the offer the same compensation for a W-2 as a 1099 as the former has higher expenses for the employer. It is hard to know without actual numbers, actual expected expense deductions and so forth.  Which is why I would suggest consulting with an accountant.  You may want to talk to one in the state where he will be working rather than where you live now.
why did you link a document on government labor? do you think amazon is a public employer?   when discussing what auto companies are or are not building in michigan, i think you will find that they are building tech, digital, and other white collar investments here. very similar to the focus of this thread.
"Sure, not disagreeing, but Uber is a member of the ""tech startup"" group - its not often that this group of companies in Silicon Valley is so highly controversial, primarily because they are so heavily talked about and want to avoid this kind of publicity.   I guess it does involve a snowball effect though. Once you're in the negative spotlight once, you'll be scrutinized every chance they get."
You can. Speculating on marine traffic is more closely tied to oil trades and ocean shipping container rates, than trades on any particular companies. But companies heavily tied to ocean shipping can be ripe for speculation. The baltic dry index is created for this analytical purpose, and that information can be used as an indicator to hedge or speculate in container freight swap agreements.  The Guggenheim Shipping Exchange Traded Fund also serves as a proxy for maritime shipping profitability, but it is just a bundle of several publicly traded marine shipping companies shares.
Not a good idea, the bank is a lean holder unless you deduct the remainder of the loan from the purchase price you will end up paying much more. Tell the seller to pay off the loan and provide you a clean title. Btw unless you're getting the deal of the century I'd walk away until I saw a clean title
"This answer is better served as a comment but I don't have enough rep.  It is not guaranteed that they 'do not accrue interest while you are a full time student'. Some student loans can capitalize the interest - before pursuing leveraged investing, be sure that your student loan is not capitalizing. https://www.salliemae.com/student-loans/manage-your-private-student-loan/understand-student-loan-payments/learn-about-interest-and-capitalization/ Capitalized interest Capitalized interest is a second reason your loan may end up costing   more than the amount you originally borrowed. Interest starts to accrue (grow) from the day your loan is disbursed   (sent to you or your school). At certain points in time—when your   separation or grace period ends, or at the end of forbearance or   deferment—your Unpaid Interest may capitalize. That means it is added   to your loan’s Current Principal. From that point, your interest will   now be calculated on this new amount. That’s capitalized interest."" https://www.navient.com/loan-customers/interest-and-taxes/how-student-loan-interest-works/ Capitalized Interest If you accrue interest while you are in school – as with Direct   Unsubsidized, FFELP Unsubsidized, Direct and FFELP PLUS Loans, and   Private Loans – you will have capitalized interest if it is unpaid.   Unpaid accrued interest is added to the principal amount of your loan   after you leave school and finish any applicable grace period. Simply put, there will be interest to be paid on both the principal of   the loan and on the interest that has already accumulated. To minimize the effects of the capitalized interest on the amount you   will pay overall, you can pay the interest during college instead of   waiting until after graduation. That way, you start with the original   principal balance (minus any fees) when you begin repayment."
Can you reduce your interest rate? Talk to the lender. Maybe. Probably not. The rate reflects their perception of how much of a risk they're taking with the loan. But if all you're borrowing is $2000, the savings that you might get out of any adjustment to the rate is not going to be all that significant. Sure, it would be nice, but it's not going to be enough to make or break your decision to buy this car. The big savings will be that you're paying interest on a much smaller loan, which means you can reduce your payments and/or pay it off more quickly. REMINDER: NEVER TALK TO AN AUTO DEALER ABOUT FINANCING UNTIL AFTER THE PRICE OF THE CAR HAS BEEN NAILED DOWN -- otherwise they will raise the purchase price to cover the cost of offering you an apparently cheap loan.
Look at the basic cost of the lease.  Option 1: keep the car for three years. Pay for repairs during that time then sell it for $7,000. Option 2: Sell the current car for $10,000. Lease a new car for three years. Assume no need for repairs during those three years. At the end of the three years return the car in return for $0. Cost of option 1 is $3000 plus repairs.  Cost of Option 2 is 36 months x monthly lease cost. The first $83 of the monthly lease cost is to cover the $3000 fixed cost of option 1. The rest of the monthly lease cost is to cover the cost of repairs. Also remember that some leases have a initial down payment due at signing, and penalties for condition, and excess mileage. The lease company may also require a higher level of insurance for the lease to cover their investment if you have an accident.  Plus If you fall in love with a different car two year from now, or your needs change you are locked in until the end of the lease period.
"Assuming the numbers in your comments are accurate, you have $2400/month ""extra"" after paying your expenses.  I assume this includes loan payments. You said you have $3k in savings and a $2900 ""monthly nut"", so only one month of living expenses in savings. In my opinion, your first goal should be to put 100% of your extra money towards savings each month, until you have six months of living expenses saved.  That's $2,900 * 6 or $17,400.  Since you have $3K already that means you need $14,400 more, which is exactly six months @ $2,400/month. Next I would pay off your $4K for the bedroom furniture.  I don't know the terms you got, but usually if you are not completely paid off when it comes time to pay interest, the rate is very high and you have to pay interest not just going forward, but from the inception of the loan (YMMV--check your loan terms). You may want to look into consolidating your high interest loans into a single loan at a lower rate.  Barring that, I would put 100% of my extra monthly income toward your 10% loan until its paid off, and then your 9.25% loan until that's paid off.  I would not consider investing in any non-tax-advantaged vehicle until those two loans (at minimum) were paid off.  9.25% is a very good guaranteed return on your money. After that I would continue the strategy of aggressively paying the maximum per month toward your highest interest loans until they are all paid off (with the possible exception of the very low rate Sallie Mae loans).  However, I'm probably more conservative than your average investor, and I have a major aversion to paying interest.  :)"
Yes, by paying double the amount each month you would have in effect paid the loan off in less than half the time. For $13000 at 3% over 60 months your monthly repayments would be $233.59. If you double your monthly repayments to $467.18 you would end up paying the loan off by the end of the 29th months, more than halving your loan term, as long as there are no penalties for paying the loan off early.
"If your fiancée took a title loan out on your truck you won't be able to trade it in for another vehicle until you pay the loan. The dealer will likely take your ""slightly newer"" truck back because you won't be able to produce the title for the trade until the other debt is settled. Title loans are a terrible idea. You should probably try to pay that loan off as quickly as possible regardless, because interest rates are terrible on these loans.  I will update this answer if you add details about the circumstances of the current loan on your truck."
If you simply must reduce your expenses by 150$ month try refinancing the mortgage and rolling the 6500$ into it. If you get a big enough drop in the interest rate you could still end up paying less. OR If you cannot make the gain there, try snowballing the three payments. You do this by calling your student loan vendor and telling them you need to make much smaller payments, like even zero depending on the type of loan. Then take ALL of the money you are currently spending on the 3 loans and put into the car payment. When it's gone, roll the whole thing into the higher interest student loan, then finally roll it all into the last student loan. You'll pay it off faster, and student loans have lots of laws and regulations regarding working with payers to keep them paying something without breaking them. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT STOP YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS. 50% OR 100%, THAT MONEY IS GUARANTEED AT A HIGHER RATE OF RETURN THAN YOU CAN GET ANYWHERE, ESPECIALLY GUARANTEED.
If you are planning this as a tax avoidance scheme, well it is not. The gains will be taxable in your hands and not in the Banks hands. Banks simply don't cash out the stock at the same price, there will be quite a bit of both Lawyers and others ... so in the end you will end up paying more. The link indicates that one would pay back the loan via one's own earnings. So if you have a stock worth USD 100, you can pledge this to a Bank and get a max loan of USD 50 [there are regulations that govern the max you can get against 100]. You want to buy something worth USD 50. Option1: Sell half the stock, get USD 50, pay the captial gains tax on USD 50. Option2: Pledge the USD 100 stock to bank, get a loan of USD 50. As you have not sold anything, there is no tax. Over a period pay the USD 50 loan via your own earnings. A high valued customer may be able to get away with a very low rate of intrest and very long repayment period.   The tax implication to your legal hier would be from the time the stock come to his/her hands to the time she sold. So if the price increase to 150 by the time Mark dies, and its sold at 160 later, the gain is only of USD 10. So rather than paying 30% or whatever the applicable tax rate, it would be wise to pay an interest of few percentages.
Car Loan is a personal loan which helps you take loan for the car which allows the buyer to pay in monthly payments instead of paying the full price all at once. HDFC Bank provides Flexible, Quick, and Cost-Effective ways to get Car Loans in India.
I think the biggest issue you'll have is getting a loan larger than the price of the car. The lenders calculate the rate they'll be charging based on the risk of the loan. If you were to default on a car, they can repo your car and recover the approximate value of the collateral. With a loan to essentially purchase securities, they would likely charge much more.
Cars are not houses.  The comparison is apples to oranges.   Bad car loans actually can be good business for car dealers.  When someone defaults on their car loan they very quickly lose the car.  That car is then resold.   Default on a home loan and you don't even have to leave the house, and there is no way for them to take the house back from you.  It often takes a year or two for the bank and lawyers to get you kicked out of the house.   A car however is on wheels, it can easily be moved and taken back.  This article is some poorly researched 'sky is falling' click-bait.
"As a car guy, I wouldn't spend 27 large on anything that wasn't ""special"" - you'll be looking at for at least the duration of the loan and for me it'll better be very special lest I get bored with it during that time. But that's just me. If you want a transport appliance - spend around $5k-$7k on a decent used vehicle, pay it off within a couple of years or less and keep throwing money at your downpayment. Now if you have any student loan debt, buy a $3k car, learn how to fix it if necessary and pay off the millstone, err, student loan ASAP."
Turn the heat down and the A/C temperature up (so it cools less). Turn off the lights if you aren't using them. If you move, move to a cheaper apartment. Nothing to do? Get a second job. That will not only keep you from being bored, it will help with your financial issues. Bankruptcy will not itself fix the problems you describe. You are living beyond your means. Bankruptcy might make you stop living beyond your means. But it won't fix the problem that you make less money than you want to spend. Only you can do that. Better to stop the spending now rather than waiting until bankruptcy makes your credit even worse and forces you to cut spending. If you have extra money at the end of the month, pick the worst loan and pay as much of it as you can. By worst, I mean the one with the worst terms going forward. Highest interest rate, etc. If two loans have the same rate, pay the smaller one first. Once you pay off that loan, it will increase the amount of money you have left to pay off your other loans. This is called the debt snowball (snowball effect). After you finish paying off your debt, save up six months worth of expenses or income. These will be your emergency savings. Once you have your emergency fund, write out a budget and stick to it. You can buy anything you want, so long as it fits in your budget. Avoid borrowing unless absolutely necessary. Instead, save your money for bigger purchases. With savings, you not only avoid paying interest, you may actually get paid interest. Even if it's a low rate, paid to you is better than paying someone else. One of the largest effects of bankruptcy is that it forces you to act like this. They offer you even less credit at worse terms. You won't be able to shop on credit anymore. No new car loan. No mortgage. No nice clothes on credit. So why declare bankruptcy? Take charge of your spending now rather than waiting until you can't do anything else.
"I agree with @Pete that you may be well-advised to pay off your loans first and go from there.  Even though you may not be ""required"" to make payments on your own loan based on your income, that debt will play a large factor in your borrowing ability until it is gone, which hinders your ability to move toward home ownership.   If you are in a fortunate enough position to totally pay off both your loan and hers from cash on hand then you should.  It would still leave you with more than $112,000 and no debt, which is a big priority and advantage for a young couple. Mind you, this doesn't keep you from starting an investment plan with some portion of the remaining funds (the advice to keep six months' income in the bank is very wise) through perhaps a mutual fund if you don't want to directly manage the investments yourself.  The advantage of mutual funds is the ability to choose the level of risk you're willing to take and let professionals manage how to achieve your goals for you.  You can always make adjustments to your funds as your circumstances change. Again, I'd emphasize ridding yourself of the student loan debt as the first move, then looking at how to invest the remainder."
"I don't want to bother with micropayments, and harassing her for   monthly payments. Alternative approach to lending her $20K, arranging for her to pay you back $x per month, and having to (as you say) harass her for micropayments. Instead, you give her the $20K, and she sets up a savings account with a monthly direct debit deposit of $x. The bank takes care of the monthly ""payments"" into the savings account, and at the end of the loan period, you've got your $20K, and instead of the bank making interest off your mom, you make some interest out of the savings account."
You should. The impact on the credit score is small, and probably not worth the money of the annual fee. I would only change that if you plan to get a mortgage or car loan the next month - then wait until afterwards.
"To expand on what @fishinear and some others are saying: The only way to look at it is that the parents have invested, because the parents get a % of the property in the end, rather than the original loan amount plus interest. It is investment; it is not a loan of any kind. One way to understand this is to imagine that after 20 years, the property triples in value (or halves in value). The parents participate as if they had invested in 75% ownership of the property and the OP as if 25% ownership of the property. Note that with a loan, there is a (potentially changing) outstanding loan balance, that could be paid to end the loan (to pay off the loan), and there is an agreed upon an interest rate that is computed on the outstanding balance — none of those apply to this situation; further with a loan there is no % of the property: though the property may be used to secure the loan, that isn't ownership. Basically, since the situation bears none of the qualities of a loan, and yet does bear the qualities of investment, the parents have bought a % ownership of the property. The parents have invested in 75% of the real estate, and the OP is renting that 75% from them for: The total rent the OP is paying the parents for their 75% of the property is then (at least) $1012.50/mo, A rental rate of $1012.50/mo for 75% of the property equates to a rental price of $1350/mo for the whole property. This arrangement is only fair to both parties when the fair-market rental value of the whole property is $1350/mo; it is unfair to the OP when the fair-market rental value of property is less, and unfair to the parents when the fair-market rental value of property is more. Of course, the fair-market rental value of the property is variable over time, so the overall fairness would need to understand rental values over time. I feel like this isn't actually a loan if I can never build more equity in the condo. Am I missing something? No, it isn't a loan. You and your parents are co-investing in real estate. Further, you are renting their portion of the investment from them.
"The thing to recall here is that auto-pay is a convenience, not a guarantee. Auto-pay withdrawals, notices that a bill is due, all of these are niceties that the lender uses to try to make sure you consistently pay your bill on time, as all businesses enjoy steady cash flows. Now, what all of these ""quality of life"" features don't do is mitigate your responsibility, as outlined when you first took out the loan, to pay it back in a timely manner and according to the terms and conditions of the loan. If your original contract for the loan states you shall make ""a payment of $X.XX each calendar month"", then you are required to make that payment one way or another. If auto-pay fails, you are still obligated to monitor that and correct the payment to ensure you meet your contractual obligation. It's less than pleasant that they didn't notify you, but you were already aware you had an obligation to pay back the loan, and knew what the terms of the loan were. Any forgiveness of interest or penalties for late fees is entirely up to the CSR and the company's internal policies, not the law."
I would strongly encourage you to either find specifically where in your written contract the handling of early/over payments are defined and post it for us to help you, or that you go and visit a licensed real estate attorney. Even at a ridiculously high price of 850 pounds per hour for a top UK law firm (and I suspect you can find a competent lawyer for 10-20% of that amount), it would cost you less than a year of prepayment penalty to get professional advice on what to do with your mortgage. A certified public accountant (CPA) might be able to advise you, as well, if that's any easier for you to find. I have the sneaking suspicion that the company representatives are not being entirely forthcoming with you, thus the need for outside advice. Generally speaking, loans are given an interest rate per period (such as yearly APR), and you pay a percentage (the interest) of the total amount of money you owe (the principle). So if you owe 100,000 at 5% APR, you accrue 5,000 in interest that year. If you pay only the interest each year, you'll pay 50,000 in interest over 10 years - but if you pay everything off in year 8, at a minimum you'd have paid 10,000 less in interest (assuming no prepayment penalties, which you have some of those). So paying off early does not change your APR or your principle amount paid, but it should drastically reduce the interest you pay. Amortization schedules don't change that - they just keep the payments even over the scheduled full life of the loan. Even with prepayment penalties, these are customarily billed at less than 6 months of interest (at the rate you would have payed if you kept the loan), so if you are supposedly on the hook for more than that again I highly suspect something fishy is going on - in which case you'd probably want legal representation to help you put a stop to it. In short, something is definitely and most certainly wrong if paying off a loan years in advance - even after taking into account pre-payment penalties - costs you the same or more than paying the loan off over the full term, on schedule. This is highly abnormal, and frankly even in the US I'd consider it scandalous if it were the case. So please, do look deeper into this - something isn't right!
With the following variables the periodic (annual) repayment is given by The recurrence equation for the balance b at the end of month x is derived from b[x + 1] = b[x] (1 + r) - d where b[0] = s giving The interest portion of the final payment is b[n - 1] r and the total principal repaid at the end of period n - 1 is s - b[n - 1] Solving simultaneously n = 8.9998 and s = 7240 The principal repaid at the end of the first period is s - b[1] or d - r s = 479.74
Its very silly of you to have house savings while you have these debts.  Your total (listed) debt is 1657, with a savings of 2000, and a tax refund of 985.   I'd be done with the Apple loan and CC tomorrow.  Does that accomplish the goal of making a significant difference in your debt?  Yes it does. This will leave you with 1328.  I'd keep 500 or so in an emergency fund, and put the rest to the car.  Although 828 will not help much with the car it would probably knock a month off.   Next work like crazy to pay off the car.  Get a second job or work overtime. Then save a emergency fund of 3 to 6 months of expenses as if you already owned the house.  I would tend to go on the high side as I suspect you are single. Only then does it makes sense to save for a down payment.   Although it is an American institution, the book The Millionaire Next Door might be helpful for you.  Your most powerful wealth building tool is your income.  When one handicaps that tool with payments and exorbitant lifestyle choices you greatly reduce your ability to become wealthy. These amounts are so small, you should just knock them out.
This new roof should go on the 2016 LLC business return, but you probably won't be able to expense the entire roof as a repair.  A new roof is most likely a capital improvement, which means that it would need to be depreciated over many years instead of expensed all in 2016.  The depreciation period for a residential rental property is 27.5 years.  Please consider seeking a CPA or Enrolled Agent for the preparation of your LLC business return. See also: IRS Tangible Property Regulations FAQ list When you made the loan to the LLC (by paying the contractor and making a contract with the LLC), did you state an interest rate?  If not, you and your brother should correct the contract so that an interest rate is stated, then follow it.  The LLC needs to pay you interest until the loan is paid off.  You need to report the interest income on your personal return, and the LLC needs to report the interest expense in its business return.