vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Therefore, they need to prove to you that there were three options offered and that your wife specifically excluded commuting. IF they can't, then you should be able to argue that only two were offered and that commuting could have reasonably been assumed to be included. Use that term ""reasonable person"" btw, it's used in a lot of internal literature - at least at the insurer, I worked at. not commuting - Firstly, clarify their definition of ""commuting"". If your wife was on her way to work afterwards, then they may well consider she was commuting. For instance, at present, I drive from my house to my son's childminders, then to my wife's work and finally to mine. My commute could be argued to be 1 minute (my workplace is probably a minutes drive from my wife's, but I can't park in her car-park), but if I were to have an accident between my house and my son's childminder (~15 mins drive) the insurers would probably consider that commuting. If she was not on her way to work afterwards, and assuming your wife arranged her visit via text (or whatsapp, fb messenger or similar) you should easily be able to show that your wife had driven from a friends house to the childminder. If she was on a holiday day or was not working on that day, then that's also something you should be able to prove either with proof of her working pattern or proof of her holiday. If she doesn't have a job at all, then again, that's something that's provable. Proof reigns king in claims, so if you can prove certain key facts then you should be on to a winner."
If you are going to be buying a house in 1-2 years, I would be putting my money into a short term holding area like a high interest (which isn't that high right now) or a CD (also low interest) because of your near-term need.  I wouldn't use the Roth option for your down payment money. If you invest in something volatile (and stocks/mutual funds are very volatile in a 1-2 year term) I would consider it too risky for your need and time frame.
**NEED** a car and a average quality 2 bedroom apt? your entitlement and privilege may be skewing what is necessary. how about public transport/bicycle/ ridesharing/ living in a 4 bedroom house of a bargain quality with more people instead of that avg 2 bedroom. my god the entitlement and privilege is crazy!
You'll need to contact payUSAtax.com support and explain the situation. From the payUSAtax.com support FAQ: Please verify your prior payment through this service by selecting the payment verification link. Within the payment verification link, you will enter your prior payment amount and social security number or employer identification number. Your confirmation number and payment date/time will be returned. If your payment was successful, please select the Contact Us link by clicking Support at the top of the page and notify us of your non-payment notification.
""Payment transaction number"" means the payment was sent via a check drawn from our account. ""Check number"" means the payment was sent as a laser draft check. Each payment request is evaluated individually and may change each time a payment processes. A payment may switch from one payment method to another for a number of reasons. The merchant may have temporarily switched the payment method to paper, while they update processing information. Recent changes or re-issuance of your payee account number could alter the payment method. In my case, the web site reads a little different: Payment check # 12345678 (8 digits) was sent to Company on 10/27/2015 and delivered on 10/30/2015. Funds were withdrawn from your (named) account on 10/30/2015. for one due on 10/30/2015; this must be the ""corporate check"". And for another, earlier one, due on 10/01/2015, this must be the laser draft check: Check # 1234 (4 digits) from your (named) account was mailed to Company on 09/28/2015. Funds for this payment are withdrawn from your account when the Pay To account cashes the check. Both payments were made based on the same recurring bill pay payment that I set up manually (knowing little more of the company than its address)."
Confirming whether the payment was an error The simplest method is to confirm manually with the University whether the payment was a mistake and satisfy that between yourselves. If you're concerned it's fraudulant, I recommend calling the University finance office on a phone number you find on their website, or call one of the people you know. Reversing the payment To formally reverse the payment, I'd check your Product Disclosure Statement on your account with the bank. There's almost always a fee involved where a payment is reversed. It's probably easiest to just issue the payment back to the university to an agreed BSB/Account Number.
There may be a delay in the hospital's administration processing the payment or they may have misplaced or lost the payment paperwork details. You will just need to keep checking your statement in case the payment still comes through at a later date.
I want to know if I cut the citi card in half for example, how much would the min payment go down? If you goal is to become debt-free, the minimum payment shouldn't matter. Even if the minimum payment goes down, continue your current payment amount (or more, if you can afford it) until the balance is paid off. Paying the minimum will just keep you in debt longer.
I suppose but it's probably all handled by the individual payment operators, not ck Louis. For instance, several online merchants I go to have their own payment system PLUS PayPal PLUS google checkout, and sometimes even instructions for check payment or something. I can imagine dwolla fitting in the list.
You're biting off a lot. Let's say you can swing 5% for a down payment: $13k.  A 30-year loan on $247k at the rate you quote gives you a payment of $1,270 per month. This does not include taxes, insurance, or private mortgage insurance (which you'll pay because you have a down payment less than 20%).  The PMI will run you about $150-$200 per month, I think, until your loan-to-value ratio falls below 80%. Plus your HOA fee, utilities, your 401(k) loan payment, etc., you're pushing $2k/month. You have a roommate in mind, and that will help, but the roommate can go, and you still own the property.  Then you get the whole payment all to yourself. If I had the option, I'd rent a little longer.  Save up for a decent down payment, and shop around for someone who is desperate to sell.
They're batched typically and about 30-90 days out typically, though the speed is routinely increasing the last few years. The flow depends from payment processor to payment processor. Generally, the cheaper the payment processing the longer the delay.  The future of this stuff is blockchain if you'd like to look at that  http://www.goldmansachs.com/our-thinking/pages/blockchain/
"This is fairly simple, actually.  You should insist on payment for the rent payment you never received and stop accepting cash payments. If you want to be nice, and believe the story, allow the tenant additional time or payment in installments for the missing $750, but this is a textbook example of why it's a bad idea to transact with cash.  Insist on cash equivalents that are traceable and verifiable - check, money order or cashier's check, made out to you or your company name. Also, for what it's worth, you are not out $750, unless you choose to be.  Your tenant is.  ""I put cash in your mailbox"" is not proof of payment, and doesn't fly as payment anywhere.  If it did, I'd never pay any of my bills."
The mortgage I got last year through Wells Fargo explicitly indicates in its terms that excess payment will be considered against future payments (i.e., pay $500 extra in January and you owe $500 less in February) unless indicated otherwise. It goes on to state that with electronic payments you do not get to specify where excess payment goes, so excess payment made electronically always goes toward future payments. If you want to make excess payments toward principal, you must actually send them a check and your payment stub, with the appropriate box ticked.  This won't be very different for other major banks, I wouldn't imagine.
For people who frequently submit payments via PayPal, you may want to try and negotiate with them to use Paypal mass payments.  Although the mass payment program is designed to send small amounts to many people, you can process payment batches of 1 transaction. In the CA mass payment fees (paid by sender) are 2% capped at 1.25 CAD To CA and US.  International payments are 2% capped at 24.00 CAD.  No fees for receiver.  A business PayPal account is required to enable mass payments. When I mention this to customers, many are unaware Paypal's mass payment program exists! https://merchant.paypal.com/ca/cgi-bin/?cmd=_render-content&content_ID=merchant/mass_pay
See this help article from Paypal about payment methods for purchases. When you don’t have a PayPal balance or don’t have enough in your PayPal balance, we’ll use your bank account as the default payment method unless you select a different way to pay. So yes, Paypal will automatically deduct from your bank account when you make a purchase, unless you link another payment method and make that your default.
Assuming that partial payments are held (without interest) until enough money has accumulated to make at least a full payment, and assuming that overpayments are applied toward principal, a strategy of making three $ 96.00 payments per month will shorten your amortization period by less than one month.  These calculations assume that the interest rate is 12.5 percent APR, compounded monthly (with an APY of 13.2416 percent). Instead of 71 payments of $ 285.56 plus a final payment of $ 285.38, you would make the equivalent of 71 payments of $ 288.00 plus a final payment of $ 28.10. If you make one $ 96.00 payment every ten days, you will make an average of 36.5… partial payments per year, instead of 36 partial payments per year.  This will speed up your loan amortization by about another month-and-a-half over the course of the 72 month loan.  One month of shortening is due to the extra principal payments, and the other half-month is due to interest savings.   To a second approximation, this strategy is similar to paying $ 292.00 per month for 69 months plus a final payment of $ 195.38.  In other words, this strategy will probably involve about 212 payments of $ 96.00 each, possibly with a small 213th payment.
"$400M is the gross ""check"" the company will receive as payment for the project. The contract will specify payment schedule. And it can range from a payment per milestone achieved to a pay in full on completion.  The profit will hopefully be positive, but it's not impossible for a bid to underestimate the full cost, resulting in no profit at all. In theory, if you knew the expected profit from the deal, you should be able to estimate the value it adds to the company's value."
"I don't think there's any federal law prohibiting them from allowing you to AutoPay more than your minimum.  Certainly there are federal laws telling them what to do with payments more than the minimum - they must apply the leftover to the principal by default - so the law doesn't assume you can't overpay. However, federal law does require them to advance your next payment date if you overpay by a multiple of your minimum payment; i.e., if your payment is $50 and you send them $100, you don't have to make your next payment [though interest still accrues of course].  It's possible Navient isn't interested in implementing this functionality in their AutoPay, who knows. In any event, assuming you have a bank that has AutoBillPay functionality, you may want to consider using that - either for the ""extra"" or for the whole amount (if Navient isn't giving you a discount for AutoPay - if so, use that at least).  Your bank is happy to cut a check in any amount and send it on, and Navient is required to apply it to the principal.  (Though if you do the autopay-and-billpay and are sending an extra amount less than a whole payment, verify that they're willing to accept amounts less than a full payment, first; not all lenders are.)"
Yes, those numbers are all that is needed to withdraw funds, or at least set online payment of bills which you don't owe. Donald Knuth also faced this problem, leading him to cease sending checks as payment for finding errors in his writings.
I would lean towards making a smaller down payment and hanging onto savings for flexibility. Questions to think about: If you have enough cash that you can make a huge down payment and still have all the other bases covered, then it comes down to your risk tolerance and personal style.  You can almost definitely build a portfolio that will beat your mortgage rate on average over the long term, but with more risk and volatility.  Heck, you could make a 20% down payment on another house and rent it out.
It really depends on the terms of your loan. For example, some loans have a pre-payment penalty. You will just have to ask your lender to know for sure. That said. In almost all cases, you can save considerable interest by making extra payments towards the principal. Be careful though, some lenders require you to specifically mark the payment to be applied to the loan principal and if you don't designate it as such, they will just apply it as an early payment for future months and not reduce your balance until that future payment is due, which doesn't help at all. Another option to reduce your total interest costs, though more common for larger loans like mortgages, is to split the payment into multiple parts and pay more than once a month instead of a single payment each month. This only works if they calculate interest daily and would be useless if they do it monthly. They key is knowing the terms of your loan. Despite it not being in their best interest (pun intended), most lenders will work with you on a strategy to help you minimize the interest cost in the name of customer service.
Online payment service providers should allow you to agree to payments from customers and secure your company against scams. To fight against innovative scammers, you need to take additional safety measures in defending your business. Improving your payment security should be a concern to website associated with scams
For #1, I see no advantage in putting money from your non-retirement savings into a Roth just for the purpose of using it as a down payment on your house.  Why not just put the $5.5K directly toward the down payment? For #2, dollars converted from a traditional 401K or IRA to a Roth are considered income, and will be taxed at your marginal rate.  So if your marginal tax rate is 25%, you will need to pay $5K in order to convert the $20K.  Usually this payment is done independent of the conversion amount--in other words, you would convert the full $20K but pay the $5K in taxes out of other funds (checking/savings). Based on your stated goals of using the money for a down payment on a house, I don't see any advantage to contributing (or converting) to a Roth IRA.
You shouldn't technically be able to over pay. I have some share dividends set to pay into my account but one of them took me over the limit so the payment was diverted to another account and they sent me a letter. Pretty sure they would do this with any payment.
In month 9 you still owe $7,954.25. You need to pay that, plus the $250. At that line, you haven't made the payment, the rest of the line with next month's payment due. So you haven't paid the $242.47 in col 4.
This situation is exactly why we have the concept of legal tender. Legal tender is a form of payment that must be accepted to settle a debt. Your friend is entitled to insist on paying the rent in cash — accepting any other form of payment is at the landlord’s discretion.
What does not seem reasonable about your plan is the payment and buyout.  While $200/month payments are possible (but hard to find), buyouts are more typically in the five figure range. Given that your savings and desired payment for a car is low (the average car payment today is about 450/month), can you really afford the massive depreciation of a late model vehicle? Why not purchase a 2000 car now, and save the 200-300 per month?  In about a year you could move up to a ~5000 car.  You can buy a pretty nice car for 5K.   Myself, I am on my third year of driving a 4000 car.
Yes. Stick to the deal you made. Help the girl pass the exams. Consider it a life lesson, don't worry about the money now because it's only payment if she passes. It's more about helping the girl pass the exams than it is about what you knew at the time was going to be short money. You have to prove yourself before you even think about an increase in payment and payment here is only due with a passing grade. You put yourself in a situation that you will not do in the future. You made the offer so honor it like a champ and be grateful you are able to help someone else.
You don't pay any interest until a few weeks after you receive your statement, when the payment is due. Simply set up a direct debit with Halifax for the statement balance and they will take the correct amount (whatever you spent that month) from your bank account on the payment due date. Problem solved!
"In the U.S., when you receive your credit card bill each month there's a ""minimum payment amount."" That minimum payment is usually the greater of $25 or 1% of the new balance on the card plus new interest and fees. As long as you pay the minimum payment amount, you can pay as much as you want each month. Note, in your example, you would be required to pay more than $1000 to pay off the balance, as interest would accrue each month on the unpaid principal. How much more is dependent on the interest rate of the card."
This is almost exactally what the BK attorneys I work with have always said.  If you have trouble offer a larger down payment. . . . that is the point of the down payment after all.  You do sometimes have better luck with renting from individual people rather than larger corporately owned rentals.    There are options out there.
Out of what principle?  Your morals or the balance?  Either way, you will pay for it.  I pay it monthly if there’s a shortage.  I round my monthly payment up to the highest 100 and accept that as the new lowest payment.  Any extra goes to principle so I can be done with it.
I suspect that the payments were originally due near the end of each quarter (March 15, June 15, September 15, and December 15) but then the December payment was extended to January 15 to allow for end-of-year totals to be calculated, and then the March payment was extended to April 15 to coincide with Income Tax Return filing.
One thing that a high down payment does is improve the chance that the seller will accept your offer.  Sellers also want to know that your offer is a serious one, and the closer you are to an all-cash buyer, the better.  I've heard of sellers letting OK offers sit on the table because they didn't like the down payment amount.
"I'm assuming when you say ""…put it towards our mortgage payment?"", you mean make additional payments on top of your scheduled payment. Strictly speaking, if the interest on your mortgage is higher than the return you can expect by saving, then yes, your excess savings should be put toward your mortgage.  This assumes that there are no pre-payment penalties, that you really won't miss that money in the short term (i.e. you say you have enough savings for emergencies, so that's good), and that both choices would use after-tax dollars (i.e. mortgage payment vs RRSP contribution in Canada is a huge discussion)."
What you're referring to is Visa Easy Payment Services (VEPS). Other payment processors have similar programs. Basically, certain merchants (based on merchant category code - or MCC), are not required to obtain a signature under $50. This limit was raised to $50 from $25 last year. Here is the press release from Visa describing the increase, and the program in general.
You could make a browser plugin that did that I would think.  Does such a thing exist already?  It would track which sites you go to, and for how long. And whichever sites accepted payment through them it would distribute your budget to every month.  I imagine you would have to review the payment at the end of the month, just to verify and to prevent fraud.
"" I am trying to determine how much I need to pay monthly to zero the balance, ...."", as per the above calculations, if the OP makes the minimum required payment of $134.58 plus $1018.33, that $134.58 will be applied to the low-rate balance and the rest $1018.33 will pay off the high-rate balance in full if the payment is made on the day the statement is issued. If payment is made later, but before the due date, that $1018.33 will be accruing finance charges until the date the payment is made, and these will appear as 22% rate balance on next month's statement. Similarly for the low-rate balance. What if several monthly payments will be required? The best calculator known to me is at https://powerpay.org (free but it is necessary to set up a username and password). Enter in all the credit card balances and the different interest rates, and the total amount of money that can be used to pay off the balances, and the site will lay out a payment plan. (Basically, pay off the highest-interest rate balance as much as possible while making minimum required payments on the rest). Most people are surprised at how much can be saved (and how much shorter the time to be debt-free is) if one is willing to pay just a little bit more each month."
You definitely have an argument for getting them to reverse the late fee, especially if it hasn't happened very often. (If you are late every month they may be less likely to forgive.) As for why this happens, it's not actually about business days, but instead it's based on when they know that you paid. In general, there are 2 ways for a company to mark a bill as paid: Late Fees: Some systems automatically assign late fees at the start of the day after the due date if money has not been received. In your case, if your bill was due on the 24th, the late fee was probably assessed at midnight of the 25th, and the payment arrived after that during the day of the 25th. You may have been able to initiate the payment on the company's website at 11:59pm on the 24th and not have received a late fee (or whatever their cutoff time is). Suggestion: as a rule of thumb, for utility bills whose due date and amount can vary slightly from month to month, you're usually better off setting up your payments on the company website to pull from your bank account, instead of setting up your bank account to push the payment to the company. This will ensure that you always get the bill paid on time and for the correct amount. If you still would rather push the payment from your bank account, then consider setting up the payment to arrive about 5 days early, to account for holidays and weekends.