vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
I have a PayPal account that I have linked to my bank account.  My PayPal balance is always $0.  When I make a purchase with PayPal, PayPal will automatically withdraw the funds from my bank account to make the purchase.   PayPal does not ask my permission for each purchase.  I probably gave them permission to do this when I linked my bank account.  Or perhaps the PayPal purchase process includes this permission.  I don't read the text closely.  Or I should add, that I probably read it at one point, but since I do it on a regular basis, I don't read it now, and I don't recall what is on the checkout page.
I work as a fb ad freelancer, so many people buy from fb. What makes fb ironic is that nobody logs in and says 'ah time to buy some shoes'. But with good content and a nice funnel, lots of brands are selling.
Since I am no longer a minor, can I start contributing to this account right away and claim tax relief for my contributions?  Yes Do I need to submit some paperwork to the bank  Not to my knowledge. Best check with Bank. What will be the features of such a PPF account with respect to maturity, withdrawals, interest, tax on interest, etc. No difference. i.e. the Account would continue, as it was opened 10 years back, it would mature in another 5 years. You can extend this by a block of 5 years as long as required. The withdrawals are tax free in your hands including interest.
The likely outcome of adding extra money to your escrow account is that the bank will send you a check for excess funds at the end of the year (or whenever your property tax and insurance payments are processed). Could you just redeposit that money immediately? Possibly. I bet most banks wouldn't care and would just follow the routine of clearing the excess from the account next time they process payments. I've never received a 1099 for interest in an escrow account. It is possible that when you start earning enough interest that a 1099 is required by law ($10/year) that the bank gets a little more aggressive about pushing your money back to you. I'm not sure why that hassle is any better than just opening up your average internet savings account (many don't have any of the fees you mentioned) and parking it there with a similar interest rate. You can deposit and withdraw using ACH transactions that post by the next business day. That said, unless they do start rejecting your money, there aren't a lot of downsides in your plan.
"It depends on the bank. According to the Uniform Commercial Code, a bank is not obliged to pay a cheque after six months, but may do so if it wants to. § 4-404.  BANK NOT OBLIGED TO PAY CHECK MORE THAN SIX MONTHS OLD. A bank is under no obligation to a customer having a checking account to pay a check, other than a certified check, which is presented more than six months after its date, but it may charge its customer's account for a payment made thereafter in good faith. Official link to UCC 4-404 As for your second question, if you stamp ""void after 60 days"" on your cheque; I don't have a specific answer for that part (yet). Update: I can find no specific rules about someone putting an arbitrary ""void after xxx days"" on their personal check. Businesess are alllowed to, but again the overriding rule seems to be that after six months it's the bank's choice, and you certainly couldn't make a cheque expire before six months, so I don't think that putting a stamp would make any difference. It's still up to the bank in the end."
"I linked my bank account (by making a transfer from bank account to Paypal) without linking a card. This should not give Paypal any rights to do anything with my bank account - transfer that I made to link it was exactly the same as any other outgoing transfer from my bank account. On attempting to pay more that resides in my Paypal balance I get  To pay for this purchase right now, link a debit or credit card to your PayPal account. message. Paypal is not mentioning it but one may also transfer money to Paypal account form bank to solve this problem. Note, that one may give allow Paypal to access bank account - maybe linking a card will allow this? Paypal encourages linking card but without any description of consequences so I never checked this. It is also possible that Paypal gained access to your bank balance in other way - for example in Poland it just asked for logins and passwords to bank accounts (yes, using ""Add money instantly using Trustly"" in Poland really requires sharing full login credentials to bank account - what among other things breaks typical bank contract) source for ""Paypal attempts phishing"": https://niebezpiecznik.pl/post/uwaga-uzytkownicy-paypala-nie-korzystajcie-z-najnowszej-funkcji-tego-serwisu/"
"The TWRR calculation will work even with negative values: TWRR = (1 + 0.10) x (1 + (-0.191) ) x (1 + 0.29) ^ (1/3) = 1.047 which is a 4.7% return. Your second question concerns the -19% return calculated for the second quarter.  You seem to think this return is ""way-off"".  Not really.  The TWRR calculates a return by accounting for cash that was added or deducted to/from the account.  So if I started with $100,000, added $10,000 to the account, and ended up with $110,000, what should be the return on my investment?  My answer would be 0% since the only reason my account balance went up was due to me adding cash to it.  Therefore, if I started with $100,000, added $10,000 in cash to the account, and ended up with $100,000 in my account, then my return would be a negative value since I lost the $10,000 that I deposited in the account. In the second quarter you started with $15,000, deposited $4,000, and ended with $15,750.  You essentially lost almost all of the $4,000 you deposited.  That is a significant loss."
I have a couple of questions regarding Bank Loans.  1.) can they ever trade above par? From my understanding, most get called due to refinancing.  2.) if a bank loan has a floor attached to it that's tied to LIBOR, say 100bps, and that floor is pierced, does the floor automatically disappear, or does that specific loan need to be refinanced before the floor can be done away with? Additionally, should an investor be more cautious when investing in a bank loan without a floor? With regard to the second half of my question, I would think an investor would demand a higher yield without the assurance of a floor.
Do you have a good reason for keeping a US bank account?  If not, I would close it and transfer to your Canadian bank account just to simplify your life. Unless you are investing on the scale of George Soros you shouldn't be worrying too much about exchange rates.
There's two possibilities. One is that the broker declared your account abandoned and turned over your account to the state. If that happened, it should turn up here: http://missingmoney.com The second is that the broker is still holding your stock. I'd start by contacting the company's transfer agent.
Do you need such a detailed budget?  I have found that a detailed budget creates two problems: I would suggest starting simple, and adding complexity as you discover you need it.  Create a budget with just a few categories Then, I enforce my budget with my auto deposit.   My required expenses, which I have a pretty good notion of the total amount get paid from one online bank.  Enough money goes in and I electronically pay. Retirement money and e-fund money get deposited into the brokerage and credit union where I keep those piles at. Finally, my optional expenses go into a second bank (I am using simple.com at the moment) and I spend from there with a card.  They have a nice reporting feature, and if I want to save up for a toy or something I save up there.  Bonuses and other extra income end up there as well.  This way, I really only have to monitor the last account to see if I can have fun or buy a new item. My bills and retirement are different pools of money, and I don't carry around a card that can access that money.
When you start at a new job here in the U.S., the default means of payment is usually a paper check. Most folks will quickly set up direct deposit so that their employer deposits their paycheck directly into their personal bank account - the incentive to do so is that you receive your funds faster than if you deposit a paper check. Even if you set up direct deposit on your first day on the job, you may still receive your first paycheck as a paper check simply because the wheels of payroll processing turn slowly at some (large) companies. A counter example is a self-employed contractor - perhaps a carpenter or house painter. These folks are paid by their customers, homeowners and such. Many larger, well established contracters now accept credit card payments from customers, but smaller independents may be reluctant to set up a credit card merchant account to accept payment by card because of all the fees that are associated with accepting credit card payments. 3% transaction fees and monthly service fees can be scary to any businessman who already has very thin profit margins. In such cases, these contractors prefer to be paid by check or in cash for the simple reason that there are no fees deducted from cash payments. There are a few folks here who don't trust direct deposit, or more specifically, don't trust their employer to perform the deposit correctly and on time. Some feel uncomfortable giving their bank info to their employer, fearing someone at the company could steal money from their account. In my experience, the folks who prefer a paper paycheck are often the same folks who rush to the bank on payday to redeem their paychecks for cash. They may have a bank account (helps with check cashing) but they prefer to carry cash. I operate in a manner similar to you - I use a debit card or credit card (I only have one of each) for nearly all transactions in daily life, I use electronic payments through my bank to pay my regular bills and mortgage, and I receive my paycheck by direct deposit. There have been periods where I haven't written or received paper checks for so long that I have to hunt for where I put my checkbook! Even though I use a debit card for most store purchases, the bank account behind that debit card is actually a checking account according to the bank.
If you can, get the depositor to put a portion of your income directly into the savings account; if you cannot, make the transfer yourself immediately afterwards. And try to force yourself to live with the money that's left, not touching the savings account. Ideally, you should save a decent fraction of your income - I've seen figures everywhere from 10% to 25% of your after-tax income recommended by various people - and start out by budgeting that to savings and then working with whatever is left. In practice, saving anything and putting the money anywhere is much better than saving nothing. Just make sure that the savings are liquid (easy to convert to cash and withdraw without a penalty, should the need arise), set up a regular bank transfer for whatever amount you can find in that budget, and try to forget about it until you get the bank statement for the savings account and get that warm, fuzzy feeling for actually having a decent amount of money set aside should something ever happen making you need it. Then, later, you can decide whether to use the money to buy a car, start a company, take early retirement, or something entirely different. Having the money will give you the options, and you can decide what is more important to you yourself. Just keep on saving."
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"Most banks will not allow you to use online bill pay with a savings account as the funding source; rather, instead it must be funded from either a checking or money market account. The reason for this is that checks can typically be written from a money market account but not from a savings account. Update: I was having trouble wrapping my head around what the check would look like when the ""pay from account"" is an external bank, so I just called Bank of America and asked them. Basically, they do an ACH Withdrawal from your external bank account and route the money directly to the payee electronically. This means that your BofA account isn't touched and it won't show up on your BofA statement (but you can see it in the online bill pay history, and on your external bank's statement.) If the payee cannot be paid electronically, than you cannot use an external funding source. In other words, if a physical check is going to be sent, then it must have a BofA account as its funding source. Even though the ACH withdrawal should technically be allowed from a savings account, I suspect that this is forbidden since the intended purpose of the ACH is actually to streamline the writing of a check."
This. My Economics is a B.S, which is why I was required to take a bunch of statistic and econometrics courses. It makes it much more quantitative and you should even walk out with knowledge of a few statistical softwares and maybe rudimentary knowledge of a couple programming languages (most likely R, Stata, SQL, maaaaybe Python).       You get out what you put in, of course. I used R and Stata, I took it upon myself to do some stock analysis with Python. You should be able to leverage it for a job. At my school, it was even in the social sciences department so the pre-reqs were the same, super easy to throw on a second major within that college. My second major was poli sci, you should consider adding a second one, too.
I don't think Xero Personal does. I have my bank account in there, but since there's no automatic feed for the bank I use I imported it manually. I entered the bank by hand, so I think you could use it without listing a bank account at all.
I do not meet your qualifications but this is what I would do: 1)  Save an amount that can replace your bike and accessories if it is stolen.  Don't touch it for anything but that. 2)  Compute an average monthly cost for maintenance items, double that for a couple of months until you have the account built up, then budget that amount every month. If your bike/headlight/front tire, get stolen or broken beyond repair, take it out of the first account.  Then your savings priority should be to rebuild that account.  I would be a bit alarmed if you have to keep hitting this account for legitimate reasons. When a tire goes flat, or other normal wear and tear item occurs, take it out of the second account.  This account should fluctuate regularly, and it is normal.  During certain months you may want to increase this amount (more glass on the street because of outdoor events means more flat tires). The same kind of thing holds true for a car. Putting numbers to some figures would help. I think the most alarming thing about your post is that a theft is somewhat ordinary.  Yikes!
Only having 1200 dollars sounds extremely dangerous and in my opinion is not a sound situation to intentionally put yourself into.   You have what, 11k total? That is roughly a rainy day fund, depending on your expenses and clarity of cash flow. I think you should keep that money in the bank as your new baseline. At least 10k of it. Don't touch that money unless you need to pay for an unexpected expense.  Now, you have $0 to work with, but a safe-ish cushion.   Then, and only then, should any extra money be used for either paying down the loan or tax advantaged accounts. A retirement account is probably the right long term financial choice. However, if it were me and I were (back) in that kind of situation, I would pay off the loan first, primarily for personal satisfaction, then start maxing retirement contributions.
I've been a landlord and also a tenant. I have been able to deposit money in an account, where I have the account number, and/or a deposit slip. In a foreign bank you can deposit by a machine if in the bank or someone is there for you and knows the account number. With regards to cashing a check in another country, it is up to the bank and the time is at least 14 to 21 business days, with a fee is added. As of a winning check, since its in your name, if you are in another country sign the check, for deposit only with a deposit slip and send it to your out of country bank by FedEx - you will have a tracking number, where as regular mail it might get there in 3 months. I hope by now you came to your solution.
I can only imagine the regulatory difficulty you're going through, and for that I empathize. First, bankers everywhere mostly do not know if a bank policy is due to regulation or internal rules.  Other banks may be more flexible, but only the most reputable should be used. Re Paypal, they first deposit 1 USD and then withdraw it, but things may be different in Cyprus.  Also, Paypal now has debit cards, so if Paypal is permitted to issue cards in Russia then it could presumably be used in Cyprus.  Again, local regulation notwithstanding.  Paypal now has phone support at the very back of their site, so I suggest a call to them. In countries that permit, Western Union can be used to wire money into an account from cash. The Bitcoin route should be used as a last resort.  You could wake up tomorrow losting 25% easy.  The regulations are a distant second compared to this problem. With all of the above methods, there will be varying delays from days to weeks.
"If you are going to keep your US bank account for any period of time, the very best option I know of is to withdraw Euros from an atm using your US card once you are in Germany.    I draw on my US account regularly (I'm in Munich) and always get the going ""mid market"" exchange rate, which is better than what you get from a currency conversion service, transfer agency, or bank transfer, and there are no fees from the atm or my bank for the currency conversion or withdrawal.   Of course you should check with your bank to verify their rules and fees for atm use internationally.  It would also be wise to put a travel advisory on your account to be sure your transaction is not denied because you are out of country."
This is really just a matter of planning.  It's good that you don't want the train to go off the rails but really you just need to budget your fixed expenses.  I do this by having two checking accounts.  One account gets a direct deposit to cover all of my fixed expenses, the other is my regular checking account.   Take your rent and other fixed expenses, if you have any, and total them.  Take that total and divide by four.  That's how much of each check you should be socking away in to the separate account. Additionally, with a 30% pay increase you can probably start a savings account.  You should start to establish an emergency fund so this really never becomes a problem.  Take 10% of your pay and put it in savings, this will still leave you with a healthy pay increase to enjoy but you'll keep some of your money for yourself too.
Like Bluetie Grasper have said. Can I create a PayPal account and receive €200 (or a similar amount) without adding a bank account, credit card, or anything but my email address? The answer is No. You can transfer the money to your PayPal account but until you verify it with your personal information with at least a credit card or mostly likely a bank account, PayPal will hold those funds until otherwise. Can I then use that money to buy on Amazon, still without adding anything but my email address? If not, can I buy gift cards and use those on Amazon? Amazon does not accept PayPal.
I went to the bank with my friends and told them that I saw the money in my account, that it's not mine, and that they should investigate and send it back to wherever it came from Right thing to do. Did you give this in writing? Do you have a stamped copy of the letter from Bank that they accepted your complaint? he has been calling with different phone number threatening me, saying that he will kill me, he will make sure I don't return to my country alive, and all. Lodge a formal police complaint. And also I have not heard from the bank at all. What should I do? Ensure that all your communication and follow-up is in writing. Even email is fine. But periodically send this via certified post with tracking number. Even when you call up the bank, keep a track of calls. After a day or two, send a email saying further to calls 1, calls 2, calls 3 etc you are still awaiting a response from Bank. Even after face to face visits, record all your follow-up and periodically send via email and after few email take a print of everything [even if its 10 pages] and send via certified mail. The reason it is very important to have a written trail is if things go wrong, Law enforcement can accuse you to be part of fraud/scam. It will be difficult to establish you were the one who complained about it. If not too difficult, change you phone numbers. Yes definitely open the new Bank Account; and don't give this to a random stranger on Internet.
&gt; Actually, the thing they need is debt, not depositors money.  I was trying to explain how a bank could be a ponzi scheme.  But on second thought, even the example I provided is wrong.    Depositors are creditors to the bank.  Ponzi schemes are paying out returns to investors or equity holders and has nothing to do with paying out liabilities to creditors.  No matter how the bank sourced the assets, paying returns of interest to depositors (creditors) can't be deemed a ponzi scheme.
paypal says it works with CBE but can't seem to link my account with them, but skrill works perfectly just go to www.skrill.com sign up and you can link your bank account with your skrill account, i've had a few transactions so it should work for you too.
"Yea. Almost every form I fill out wants to know ""Employer Name"". They don't even bother checking ""Are you Self Employed"". Of course, I end up writing ""Self Employed"" in employer name field anyway.   In the United States, it is even harder because EVERY state has their own labor and employment laws. You are a freelancer but what if you need to travel to a client site in a different state. Bam, you gotta file taxes for that state as well even if you made like a few hundred bucks.   Too much red tape and it is really hard to change."
So far I am doing mint.com for a few minutes a couple of times a week, despite my security concerns, and that's working fairly well as practice until my job starts.  I'm hoping to get my bank to allow up to date transaction download, and then I'm considering using YNAB once I start my job.  I will update this as I go along.
Build a trust. I have a trust account under my name and 3 dependents, FDIC confirmed we're good to 1m. Then I have personal accounts for the 4 of us and a corp account, all at the same bank, each also insured.
I agree with Joe, having the money deposited to the US bank account may land you in trouble. Technically, a US business paying a foreigner must withhold 30% of the payment, unless a tax treaty says otherwise. The US business should do that based on your W8-BEN/W8-ECI form that you should have given to the business before being paid. I'm guessing, that by paying to your US bank account, you (and your American counterpart) are trying to avoid this withholding. That may cause trouble for both of you. I would suggest you talking to a professional (EA/CPA licensed in the State where the business is located) and having the situation resolved ASAP. You may not be liable for the US taxes at all, but because of incorrectly reporting the income/expense - you and the US business may end up paying way more than the $0 you otherwise would have, in penalties.