vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"First, I would recommend getting rid of this ridiculous debt, or remember this day and this answer, ""you will be living this way for many years to come and maybe worse, no/not enough retirement"". Hold off on any retirement savings right now so that the money can be used to crush this debt. Without knowing all of your specifics (health insurance deductions, etc.) and without any retirement contribution, given $190,000 you should probably be taking home around $12,000 per month total. Assuming a $2,000 mortgage payment (30 year term), that is $10,000 left per month. If you were serious about paying this off, you could easily live off of $3,000 per month (probably less) and have $7,000 left to throw at the student loan debt. This assumes that you haven't financed automobiles, especially expensive ones or have other significant debt payments. That's around 3 years until the entire $300,000 is paid! I have personally used and endorse the snowball method (pay off smallest to largest regardless of interest rate), though I did adjust it slightly to pay off some debts first that had a very high monthly payment so that I would then have this large payment to throw at the next debt. After the debt is gone, you now have the extra $7,000 per month (probably more if you get raises, bonuses etc.) to enjoy and start saving for retirement and kid's college. You may have 20-25 years to save for retirement; at $4,000 per month that's $1 million in just savings, not including the growth (with moderate growth this could easily double or more). You'll also have about 14 years to save for college for this one kid; at $1,500 per month that's $250,000 (not including investment growth). This is probably overkill for one kid, so adjust accordingly. Then there's at least $1,500 per month left to pay off the mortgage in less than half the time of the original term! So in this scenario, conservatively you might have: Obviously I don't know your financials or circumstances, so build a good budget and play with the numbers.
It is one thing to take the advice of some numb-skulls on a web site, it is another thing to take the advice of someone who is really wealthy. For myself, I enjoy a very low interest rate (less than 3%) and am aggressively paying down my mortgage.  One night I was contemplating slowing that down, and even the possibility of borrowing more to purchase another rental property. I went to bed and picked up Kevin O'Leary's book(Cold Hard Truth On Men, Women, and Money: 50 Common Money Mistakes and How to Fix Them), which I happened to be reading at the time.   The first line I read, went something like:  The best investment anyone can make is to pay off their mortgage early.  He then did some math with the assumption that the person was making a 3% mortgage payment.   Any conflicting advice has to be weighted against what Mr. O'Leary has accomplished in his life.  Mark Cuban also has a similar view on debt.  From what I heard, 70% of the Forbes richest list would claim that getting out of debt is a critical step to wealth building. My plan is to do that, pay off my home in about 33 (September '16) more weeks and see where I can go from there.
You'll also have about 14 years to save for college for this one kid; at $1,500 per month that's $250,000 (not including investment growth). This is probably overkill for one kid, so adjust accordingly. Then there's at least $1,500 per month left to pay off the mortgage in less than half the time of the original term! So in this scenario, conservatively you might have: Obviously I don't know your financials or circumstances, so build a good budget and play with the numbers. If you sacrifice for a short time you'll be way better off, trust me from experience. As a side note: Assuming the loan debt is 50/50 you and your husband, you made a good investment and he made a poor one. Unless he is a public defender or charity attorney, why is he making $60,000 when you are both attorneys and both have huge student loan debt? If it were me, I would consider a job change. At least until the debt was cleaned up. If he can make $100,000 to $130,000 or more, then your debt may be gone in under 2 years! Then he can go back to the charity gig."
I think the answer depends on whether you're trying to get out of debt and stay out, or if you just want this card paid off.  That is, are you changing the way you deal with money and debt for good? If you just want this card paid off, and you're OK with going back into debt later, then @Mike Scott's advice is one way to go.  I'd personally be nervous about leaving myself with no cash reserves at all.   If you are planning to get out of debt and stay out, then you don't want to put yourself in a position where you're tempted to go back into debt as soon as you hit a speed bump.  So, you need some cushion so that an emergency doesn't push you right back to the credit cards.  If you've got a budget that you can live on, and that covers your usual expenses, and your job is relatively stable, then $1000 is probably enough of a cushion for most things. You can then pay off most of the credit card using the rest of your savings.  If you're in an unstable job situation, then you'll want to keep more, if not all, of your savings as protection against the instability.  Once the situation stabilizes, then throw the surplus savings at the debt. $1000 doesn't cover all possible emergencies, but it's generally a good tradeoff between prudence and paranoia.
A falling $AUD would be beneficial to exporters, and thus overall good for the economy. If the economy improves and exporters start growing profits, that means they will start to employ more people and employment will increase - and with higher employment, employees will become more confident to make purchases, including purchasing property. I feel the falling $AUD will be beneficial for the economy and the housing market. However, what you should consider is that with an improving economy and a rising property market, it will only be a matter of time before interest rates start rising. With a lower $AUD the RBA will be more confident in starting to increase interest rates. And increasing interest rates will have a dampening effect on the housing market. You are looking to buy a property to live in - so how long do you intend to live in and hold the property? I would assume at least for the medium to long term. If this is your intention then why are you getting cold feet? What you should be concerned about is that you do not overstretch on your borrowings! Make sure you allow a buffer of 2% to 3% above current interest rates so that if rates do go up you can still afford the repayments. And if you get a fixed rate - then you should allow the buffer in case variable rates are higher when your fixed period is over. Regarding the doomsayers telling you that property prices are going to crash - well they were saying that in 2008, then again in 2010, then again in 2012. I don't know about you but I have seen no crash. Sure when interest rates have gone up property prices have levelled off and maybe gone down by 10% to 15% in some areas, but as soon as interest rates start falling again property prices start increasing again. It's all part of the property cycle. I actually find it is a better time to buy when interest rates are higher and you can negotiate a better bargain and lower price. Then when interest rates start falling you benefit from lower repayments and increasing property prices. The only way there will be a property crash in Australia is if there was a dramatic economic downturn and unemployment rates rose to 10% or higher.
I live in one of the highest cost of living areas in my country. For the cost of less than half the down payment my spouse and I have saved up for a house we could easily buy a home in most of the lower cost of living areas (and several homes in, say, Detroit). As for the rest of your question, though, we've chosen not to live that way. Because, like all high cost of living areas, ours is near a city there are more free and inexpensive things to do than you would think at first. While others in our area think a great time is pre-gaming drinks at a nice bar, an expensive restaurant, then some more drinks we've taught ourselves how to make great meals from scratch using sale and inexpensive ingredients from the grocery store and often do that on weekends, topped off by a movie from the redbox that we promptly return the next day. We have chosen friends who will hang out with us over potluck dinners and board games instead of out on the town. On weekend days we visit free museums, do hikes, wander around revitalized downtown strips, or play at the local parks. Our groceries, as I mentioned, are sale items or use coupons and we go for less expensive meats and produce. We visit our local farmer's market for fun, not to buy the expensive produce. We might find ourselves wandering through the mall to window shop, but when it comes time to actually buy clothing or goods for the apartment we shop around for up to months to find a good deal. Plenty of our friends have money enough to spend, and the most debt they are usually wallowing in is a big car payment, no consumer debt. At the same time I have trouble imagining some of them buying a house any time soon, because they simply can't be saving all that much (since I know their incomes). They may eventually be able to afford a condo and ride rising housing prices to a townhome and then a house - it's what lots of people do around here, loosing buckets money in realtor fees and closing costs along the way. Even with these choices, it's hard to view my friends as selfish knowing that most of them give around 10% of their income to charity.
I fail to see the distinction between me 'buying back' $10K in future coupons on my own loan or me investing $10K in someone else's loans. The real question for me is whether this makes sense when rates are so low. At 4%, I'd say it's a matter of prioritizing any high rate debt and any other investments that might yield more. But even so, it's an investment yielding 4%. Over the years, I've developed the priorities of where to put new money - The priorities are debatable. I have my opinion, and my reasons to back them up. In general, it's a balance between risk and return. In my opinion, there's something wrong with ignoring a dollar for dollar match on the 401(k) in most circumstances. Others seem to prefer being 100% debt free before saving at all. There's a balance that might be different for each individual. As I started, the mortgage is a fixed return, with no chance to just get it back if needed. If your cash savings is pretty high, and the choice is a .001% CD or prepay a 4% mortgage, I'd use some funds to pay it down. But not to the point you have no liquid reserves.
"&gt;We also have the highest expenditures as a percent of GDP than any other nation. Needless to say we spend a LOT on health care also. That is in large part do to insane healthcare costs passed on to the consumers by the aca. Healthcare spending has increased on average 1.5% annually since 2009 where as the highest growth in spending from 1991 until 2006 was 1.3% (im willing to admit my research may be incomplete or inaccurate here as the available rescources are pretty limited in my short time researching) &gt;we do have arguably the best health care services in the world... that is mostly only true if you are very wealthy. Thats a dumb statement leftists make. There is no excuse to not put yourself in debt for the best healthcare possible. Idk about you but I'd rather be in a lot of debt getting first rate healthcare than get affordable care from a 2nd rate community college doctor. Did you also know that medical debt doesnt effect your credit score so even if you ""default"" on medical debts it doesnt effect any part of your life. so why wouldnt you go in debt and then slowly pay off that debt with no fear of negative repercussions for not paying? &gt;When you break it down on results per dollar spent, the US doesn't even break the top 20. When you break it down on infant mortality, and life expectancy, we have been on a backward slide for a while now (although those rates improved for the short while that the ACA has been in effect, as have the net increase in costs). At the end of the day, the cost of health care has grown 3X faster than inflation, and 20X faster than the average income for over 30 years now. So, no, health care in this country is not the best to the average person. I dont have health insurance and an ER visit with xrays costs me less out of pocket than 90% of the country why is that?
As a parent, I call bullshit on this. I may or may not retire rich, but my kids will have more opportunity than I did, and they will have the benefit of learning what I have learned about entrepreneurship, what my wife has learned about medicine, about what we both have learned about health, debt, relationships, sleep, cooking, self reliance, and so on.  We are the first generation in each of our families to be upper middle class, none of our parents had college degrees.  Our kids go to better schools than we did, and will have more opportunities than we did. If they take advantage of them, they will be more successful than we are.  This is not luck. This is by design, because we don't think of the well-being of our kids and future grand kids and future great grandkids in terms of our current income or our own lifetimes. We don't buy the most expensive cars or houses or clothes we can. We save, invest, pay down debt incurred from mortgage and student loans before we knew better, put money into a future for our children.  Us focusing our entire lives from the day we graduated from high school with no money and no job up until now, and into the future, has been and will be geared toward making sure my future family has it better than I did or my parents did.  Sure, we are lucky enough to have been born now in America and not to have been tragically murdered or disabled, and lucky enough to have had roads and access to public school, but to say my family is simply lucky is horseshit.   We are very fortunate and it is important to be grateful for the luck we have had, but decades of focus and sacrifice and dedication with a specific focus on increasing income and saving cannot be dismissed, and a dynastic focus on generational wealth building simply cannot be called only luck.
Having a debt on a balance sheet does impact the capability and willingness of the company to pay dividend. But more than this it depends on the profitability of the company.  If the company is profitable, there is no reasons why it's share holders should not be rewarded. If the company does not have debt, lot of money and no profit, normally no or a symbolic dividend is paid. It is a good move by Fort. Dividend is the effective way of paying something back to the shareholders.
my wife and I own a 2 br/2 bath house on .25 acres in western MA.  We were able to refinance it and now pay about $400 a month in mortgage, and another $350 in taxes each month.  Insurance is $50.    We grow our own produce during the spring/summer/fall and put up a lot of canned stuff and whatnot in October.  We don't eat much meat.  I make about $20k/yr teaching music.  Our 2 year old doesn't go to daycare.  I care for him during the day and pay a babysitter in the evening while I teach.  My wife is a cook and earns slightly more than me.  Our combined income is about $42k/year.  We have savings, investments and no debt.  We do not use credit cards.  We don't shop for the latest gadgets and gizmos.  We look for bargains wherever possible, we go without and we do a lot of barter.  See it is possible to do it.  It takes hard work and creativity
"Place your savings into safe interest-bearing accounts. Take out the loans.  Keep constant track of your net worth. Having 100,000$ and 80,000$ in interest free debt is better than having 20,000$.  You can always convert money + debt into less money and less debt, but you cannot always convert less money and less debt into more money and more debt. Now, there are risks; that is why you want an interest-bearing account to place your savings in to offset the debt.  This minimizes the risk.  It also reduces the return. It is arguable that you should be at your most financially risky at a young age.  I'd argue that your future earnings are your by far largest asset at this point, and as a high school student going into college those future earnings have extremely high variability. Your financial situation is extremely unpredictable; being conservative about your high-leverage student-loan + education investments is probably justified.  The fact you can manage arbitrage here means you should; and if you are careful, you can eliminate risk and get almost risk-free profit from the maneuver. If your money is in less than perfectly safe accounts, you are now doing leveraged investing and magnifying the risk and return of said investments. If your money must be spent on college or you'll be financially punished, then you may want to consider pulling it out before the last possible legal point just in case something goes wrong. Apparently 529 plans may not treat ""paying off student loans"" as a valid way to spend the money.  You may need to talk to a lawyer or accountant about the legality of using these plans to pay off student loans, and the tax/penalties involved."
Debt collectors are just doing their job as many people want to evade payment by not responding and skipping their debts, and they talk tough to force people found to make their obligated payments based on what they can afford and that’s all. I’m in the UK, but I assume the process is similar. Before I begin, I worked in debt collection and I presume that the debt collection agency have requested details for a source like a college and you have been returned as a possible match as you name is identical to their debtor but with differing date of birth etc. College/University students are very nomadic in nature and addresses aren’t very helpful when they are not current, but details of a current address/employer to a very similar name would be a possible lead to debtor and the debt collector is simply acting on flawed information which is fairly rare, and cases such as these are resolved when you can simply confirm your date of birth and other details so that they can eliminate you from their chasing activities. Whilst you may feel uncomfortable about giving your details, you are not the debtor and will have to confirm this, the debt collector is only interested in collection of valid debts values, and the current letter is most likely a standard letter to get you to act assuming that you are the debtor. If you try to ignore this or only partly answer their contact by telling them not to contact your employer etc, they will assume that you are the debtor and step up pursuit by contacting at work by phone, in person, or by other means, and you employer will see you in a bad light… I would advise you to write to them a one-time only letter confirming details of your home address and insist on correspondence in writing only to that home address, in addition you should confirm your full name including full middle names, date of birth, that you have never attended the college in question, agreed to any such debt in writing, and that you are not the correct data subject as the ss number also differs.
That means that there's a constant increasing in the siphoning off of taxes as well to pay for the government having purchased a good or service without having actually paid for it at the time it was ordered. That decreasing green line means not that personal debt is falling (well, most of the time) but that the government is taking out debt on your behalf even faster than private debt has been going up. **The rest of the world catching up and breaking a temporary limited monopoly on certain goods**. China and India were not industrialized (and the former stuck under Maoism and not trading much with the rest of the world), so there were fewer people available to do this sort of work. Europe rebuilt from World War II, so it didn't have to purchase from the overseas US manufacturing industry. What could change? Well, standard-of-living is a cultural thing; that seems hard to manipulate. I'm sure that it's possible to change that, but I have a hard time suggesting how. Automation would be an across-the-board good thing if workers could be efficiently shifted into fields which currently have more demand; it's only an issue for workers if they stay in a field that has falling demand. I'm sure that our mechanisms for re-educating workers are not terribly good. Today, our education system still involves having a person stand up in front of a lot of other people and talk at them, then have those other people go and repeat some rote tasks to try and hammer something into their brain; it's the same mechanism that the wealthy used hundreds of years ago to tutor their children, but ramped up on a larger scale. If it were cheaper and easier to learn a new trade, it'd be easier to enter lucrative fields. College costs in particular are ridiculous. When you take college classes, you're basically getting a reading list, a very few limited slots to ask questions, and a set of predefined tasks plus some grading. That can be done far less-expensively than it is provided today. I personally have high hopes for online courses as a start here, though I'm sure that there will be stumbling blocks.
There are two or three issues here. One is, how quickly can you get cash out of your investments? If you had an unexpected expense, if you suddenly needed more cash than you have on hand, how long would it take to get money out of your Scott Trade account or wherever it is? I have a TD Ameritrade account which is pretty similar, and it just takes a couple of days to get money out. I'm hard pressed to think of a time when I literally needed a bunch of cash TODAY with no advance warning. What sudden bills is one likely to have? A medical bill, perhaps. But hey, just a few weeks ago I had to go to the emergency room with a medical problem, and it's not like they demanded cash on the table before they'd help me. I just got the bill, maybe 3 weeks after the event. I've never decided to move and then actually moved 2 days later. These things take SOME planning. Etc. Second, how much risk are you willing to tolerate? If you have your money in the stock market, the market could go down just as you need the cash. That's not even a worst case scenario, extreme scenario. After all, if the economy gets bad, the stock market could go down, and the same fact could result in your employer laying you off. That said, you could reduce this risk by keeping some of your money in a low-risk investment, like some high-quality bonds. Third, you want to have cash to cover the more modest, routine expenses. Like make sure you always have enough cash on hand to pay the rent or mortgage, buy food, and so on. And fourth, you want to keep a cushion against bookkeeping mistakes. I've had twice in my life that I've overdrawn a checking account, not because I was broke, but because I messed up my records and thought I had more money in the account than I really did. It's impossible to give exact numbers without knowing a lot about your income and expenses.