vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
I have a few debts in collection. I do not care, I make very good money now, but I prefer to spend it on nice cars instead. In US after 7 years they do not affect your credit score. On the contrary, if you pay them they can ding your credit. That's what Susie Orman show says as well -- there is absolutely no point paying a debt that is more than 7 years old.
"You should dispute the transaction with the credit card. Describe the story and attach the cash payment receipt, and dispute it as a duplicate charge. There will be no impact on your score, but if you don't have the cash receipt or any other proof of the alternative payment - it's your word against the merchant, and he has proof that you actually used your card there. So worst case - you just paid twice. If you dispute the charge and it is accepted - the merchant will pay a penalty. If it is not accepted - you may pay the penalty (on top of the original charge, depending on your credit card issuer - some charge for ""frivolous"" charge backs). It will take several more years for either the European merchants to learn how to deal with the US half-baked chip cards, or the American banks to start issue proper chip-and-PIN card as everywhere else. Either way, until then - if the merchant doesn't know how to handle signatures with the American credit cards - just don't use them. Pay cash. Given the controversy in the comments - my intention was not to say ""no, don't talk to the merchant"". From the description of the situation it didn't strike me as the merchant would even bother to consider the situation. A less than honest merchant knows that you have no leverage, and since you're a tourist and will probably not be returning there anyway - what's the worst you can do to them? A bad yelp review? You can definitely get in touch with the merchant and ask for a refund, but I would not expect much to come out from that."
I like your reasoning, the car is the most emotional product a person buys on average, that is true. But I still feel charisma has to have some impact on consumers. Presidential candidates do have an impact, celebrities do as well. Both academically proven. Did not Steve Jobs have an impact? Who knows... Nobody ever looked into it...
It's always a good idea to check your credit history on a regular basis - try checking your credit score from one of the independent providers recently (like Equifax) ?  Maybe that will offer a clue what PayPal is doing.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with unskilled labor.  But Walmart is such a large part of the US economy that an increase in their wage base would definitely have an impact on inflation, so that any broad based increase they gave would likely have a marginal impact on quality of life.  It would also make their items more expensive two times over, one, because it would cause inflation that other employers have been resisting raising wages to keep pace with, and the more direct route of increased costs.    Whatever you pay unskilled labor, the market will simply raise prices to a level where unskilled labor still have a tough time affording a comfortable lifestyle.  Look at Australia as an example of what happens when you raise the minimum wage too high.
"No you should not borrow money at 44.9%.  I would recommend not borrowing money except for a home with a healthy deposit (called down payment outside UK). in December 2016, i had financial crisis So that was like 12 days ago.  You make it sound like the crisis was a total random event, that you did nothing to cause it. Financial crises are rarely without fault.  Common causes are failure to understand risk, borrowing too much, insuring too little, improper maintenance, improper reserves, improper planning, etc...  Taking a good step or two back and really understanding the cause of your financial crisis and how it could be avoided in the future is very useful.  Talk to someone who is actually wealthy about how you could have behaved differently to avoid the ""crisis"". There are some small set of crises that are no fault of your own.  However in those cases the recipe to recovery is patience.  Attempting to recover in 12 days is a recipe for further disaster. Your willingness to consider borrowing at 44% suggests this crisis was self-inflicted.  It also indicates you need a whole lot more education in personal finance.  This is reinforced by your insatiable desire for a high credit score.  Credit score is no indication of wealth, and is meaningless until you desire to borrow money.  From what I read, you should not be borrowing money. When the time comes for you to buy a home with a mortgage, its fairly easy to have a high enough credit score to borrow at a good rate.  You get there by paying your bills on time and having a sufficient deposit.    Don't chase a high credit score at the expense of building real wealth."
Anybody had hear about the new proposed way to fund college tuition like stocks? Any idea how it works? does the performance of the student will have any impact on the way it is funded in a similar way the results of a public company would impact the price of its stock?
Congratulations on seeing your situation clearly! That's half the battle. To prevent yourself from going back into debt, you should get rid of any credit cards you have and close the accounts. Just use your debit card. Your post indicates you're not the type to splurge and get stuff just because you want it, so saving for a larger purchase and paying cash for it is probably something you're willing to do. Contrary to popular belief, you can live just fine without a credit card and without a credit score. If you're never going back into debt, you don't need a credit score. Buying a house is possible without one, but is admittedly more work for you and for the underwriters because they can't just ask the FICO god to bless you -- they have to actually see your finances, and you have to actually have some. (I realize many folks will hate this advice, but I am actually living it, and life is pretty good.) If you're in school, look at how much you spend on food while on campus. $5-$10/day for lunch adds up to $100-$200 over a month (M-F, four weeks). Buy groceries and pack a lunch if you can. If your expenses cannot be reduced anymore, you're going to have to get a job. There is nothing wrong with slowing down your studies and working a job to get your income up above your expenses. It stinks being a poor student, but it stinks even more to be a poor student with a mountain of debt. You'll find that working a job doesn't slow you down all that much. Tons of students work their way through school and graduate in plenty of time to get a good job.  Good luck to you! You can do it.
"&gt; sofi  This is most definitely not what we're (I'm) talking about; to wit:       The loans tend to be debt for law school, business school and      medical school. And while these grad students carry a median      $77,000 in debt, they are also bringing in an average of $140,000      in salary a year. (*See correction below.) Their average FICO credit      score? 776. It's another sign of how the credit market is only open      to a select few.   This is ""privatizing the gains"".  The sub-prime student loan losses will be ""socialized""."
"It depends on what your plans for the future are.. Taking out a loan is not a bad thing if it is at a good rate and under good terms and you are sure you can handle the payments. If you buy the car with cash you may be giving up the opportunity to later get a great rate on that $8k. However, you are probably not utilizing that $20k to make as much interest as you'd then be paying if you did take the $8k on loan. Since you say ""house fund"" I assume you are saving to make a down payment on a new house. If you plan to buy that house within the next 6 months the hard pulls on your credit report from applying for the car loan will probably ding your credit score for the next 6 months which might cost you on your mortgage rate. However, if you don't plan to buy for a few more years and if you've never had a car payment before then the auto loan would actually be adding diversity to your credit history and in the long run would help your score. Another factor to consider is the loan-to-value ratio you are shooting for. LTV affects the interest rate, requirements for private mortgage insurance, etc.. Mortgage rates are at an all-time low and lower than auto-rates, so depending on the terms of the house purchase that $8k might be better spent on the car than the house. In short, if you want to buy the house soon (rates are loooow, market is a buyer's market), and you need that $8k to get a better mortgage rate or prevent you from being required to buy PMI you should probably put it toward the house. Otherwise you should probably put it toward the car. Last piece of advice. If you absolutely must buy a house and a car in the same short time-frame, do them both on the same day so that your credit score is not dinged before applying for one or the other. With mortgages this may be difficult considering the longer closing procedures, but try to time it so that your credit is getting checked by the mortgage broker and the auto lender on the same day."
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Well, the author *could* be right, but not necessarily for the reasons cited.    Several states, including California and Nevada, recently changed their laws to slow down the foreclosure process and protect borrowers.  It took lenders/servicers awhile to figure out how to work within the new legal structure, so foreclosure starts fell during that time.  Now they've got it figured out, so filings went up.  It doesn't mean the sky is falling.  If the economy keeps improving, that will temper potential defaults due to, well, unemployment and HELOC expirations causing higher mortgage payments.    There's not a lot of available inventory right now (investors have been converting short sale and foreclosed properties to rentals) so there is some pent-up demand.  If credit availability is increased by the FICO score reducing the hit for lates and defaults on medical expenses, more people will be eligible to buy a house and that will reduce foreclosure rates.    There's a lot of moving parts here, and this story only focused on a small section so take it with a grain of salt.  And remember:  if the author could really predict the future, he wouldn't be making a living as a writer for the New Republic.  edit: for clarity
Nope.  If there is no prepayment penalty go for it.  Find another credit source to use (like a credit card you pay off every month) if you want to get a long history. Saving money on interest is more important to me than minutia in a credit score.
Please realize that your issuer can close the account for any number of reasons.  Inactivity is one, as having a credit line open costs them money and if you never charge anything, the company doesn't get any transaction fees from vendors nor does the company get to charge you any interest. An occasional charge is likely to keep your card from being closed automatically, but it is not a guarantee. Another reason they may close the account is that you have other bad marks show up on your credit score, or their criteria for offering you the card change so you no longer match their target demographic. I have a credit card issued by my credit union that I have not used for a couple of years. They will not close the card account because my other accounts are still very profitable for them. If I were not an otherwise profitable customer, I wouldn't be surprised if they closed my credit card account. If you are serious about keeping the account open, you should probably have more than a trivial amount of usage.
Also, payment in the middle of the monthly cycle is an almost sure way of getting ripped off on the interest because the bank's computers will post the payment in the manner most favorable to them, and usually contrary to the terms of your mortgage. I have complained to banks about mishandled mid-month payments and won every time, and on many occasions the bank officer would grudgingly say ""We have always done it this way and nobody ever complained till you did today."" I doubt very much if the bank's programs got changed as a result of my complaints. If you are not sure how mortgages work and how interest is calculated or don't have the time or inclination to go hassle with the bank each time but do prefer not to get ripped off, make the payment as described: on the dot and at the same time as the regularly scheduled monthly payment. The amortization schedule that the bank should have given you shows how much the principal amount is after the monthly payment is made on each due date. Assuming that you have not been taking advantage of the grace periods and so the schedule is correct, make an additional payment not of a round sum but an exact amount (down to the last penny) that will jump you from principal owing after today's regular payment to principal owing after the regular payment N months from today. Here of course you choose N based on how much extra money you were planning on paying towards your mortgage. By making the extra payment, you will effectively have cut the length of the mortgage by n months and the same amortization schedule will apply over the shorter period. Since very little of the principal is repaid in the early life of the mortgage, an additional principal-only payment can reduce the length of the mortgage by years. Paying a specific amount that matches the amortization schedule also helps if you ever need to hassle with the bank. It is their print-out you are arguing from, and not trying to explain to a clueless bank officer how the bank did not compute interest correctly after you paid $1500.00 extra at beginning of last month."
They are however extremely important to the dealer and this is why after you have your new car they want you to bring in your survey for a free oil change or something. IF you are going to give a bad survey they want to throw it away and not send it in, if you are going to give a good survey they want to make sure you fill it out correctly. This is because lets say they ask you on a scale of 1-10 how was your sales person and you put a 9 that is a failing score. Dumb I know but that is how every factory CSI score system I have seen worked. According to NADA the average New Vehicle gross profit including hold back and dealer cash is around $1000.00. No where near 20%. Dealerships would love it if they made 20% on your new F250 Supercrew Diesel at around $50,000.00. One last thing there is something on the invoice called Wholesale Finance Reserve. This is the amount of money the factory forwards to the Dealership to offset the cost of financing vehicle on the floor plan so they can have it for you to look at before you buy. This is usually equal to around 3 months of interest and while you might buy a vehicle that has been on the lot for 2 days they have plenty that have been there much longer so this equals out in a fair to middling run store. General Mangers that know what they are doing can make this really pad their net profit to statement. On to incentives, there are basically 3 kinds. Cash to customer in the form of rebates, Dealer Cash in the form of incentives to dealerships based on volume or the undesirability of a vehicle, and incentive rates or Subvented leases. The rates are pretty self explanatory as they advertised as such (example 0% for 60 Months). Subvented Leased are harder to figure out and usually not disclosed as they are hard to explain and also a source of increased profit. Subvented leases are usually powered by lower cost of money called a money factor (think of it as an interest rate) that is discounted from the lease company or a subsidized residual. Subsidized residuals are virtually verboten on domestic vehicles due to their poor resell values.
I just passed my 7 with a 90%. I used Training Consultant as main source and supplemented with  Kaplan Qbank. Personally, i think the Qbank is outstanding, it pretty much covered everything that you will see on the test. I would recommend to fully utilize the Qbank and try to get your average score to around 80%. The kaplan material is slightly harder than the actual test, so you can expect your real score to be around 5-7% higher than what you get doing Kaplan exams. Good luck!
She can find a landlord that doesn't do credit checks.  Maybe on Craigslist?  She may end up paying more, have a bigger security deposit, etc. She can get someone else (not you) to sit her down and explain to her frankly that she's messing things up for herself and her children by being a poor manager of her finances.  As her credit score improves, more opportunities will open up for her. Co-signing the loan is an option, but I do think you're wise not to do that.
One factor you may be missing is that, even if you pay your balance in full each month, the utilization probably won't be zero, since the reporting period isn't usually lined up perfectly with the due date on your payment.  In short: Your utilization is not the same thing as how much balance you carry over.  My advice would be: don't try carry a balance just to get a minuscule benefit on your credit score (if there is one at all). It is certainly not worth the interest charges you will pay to do so. I think the advice you quoted is a mangled explanation of something that can benefit your credit. Specifically, don't let your cards go unused for long periods of time, which would make your utilization show as zero. At least a few times a year you should actually use those cards, even just a small amount, to make the accounts show that you are utilizing your credit.
If it is a credit card bill, the money goes towards your balance because on all of my cards, the interest for the month will show up as a line item that increases the balance.  So all your payment goes towards the balance. This is good because your interest is probably calculated daily, and any amount you can lower your balance will therefore lower the interest you have to pay. Additionally, in the US the CARD act means that you payment must be applied to items with the highest interest rates first. http://www.helpwithmybank.gov/faqs/credit_late_payment.html#drop11 http://www.creditcards.com/credit-card-news/law-bans-credit-card-payment-allocation-trickery-1282.php
Loans are not taxable events. The equity you took out is not income. It's a loan, and you pay it back with interest. You pay taxes on the capital gain of the home when you sell it. The tax does not take into account any mortgages, HELOCs, or other loans secured by the house. Instead the tax is calculated based on the price you sold it for, minus the price you bought it for, which is known as the capital gain. You can exclude $250k of that gain for a single person, $500k for a married couple. (There are a few other wrikles as well.) That would be true regardless of the loan balance at the time.
"Being self-employed, your ""profit"" is calculated as all the bills you send out, minus all business-related cost that you have (you will need a receipt for everything, and there are different rules for things that last for long time, long tools, machinery).  You can file your taxes yourself - the HRS website will tell you how to, and you can do it online. It's close to the same as your normal online tax return. Only thing is that you must keep receipts for all the cost that you claim.  Your tax: Assuming your gross salary is £25,000 and your profits are about £10,000, you will be paying 8% for national insurance, and 20% income tax. If you go above £43,000 or thereabouts, you pay 40% income tax on any income above that threshold, instead of 20%, but your national insurance payments stop."
The rates are pretty self explanatory as they advertised as such (example 0% for 60 Months). Subvented Leased are harder to figure out and usually not disclosed as they are hard to explain and also a source of increased profit. Subvented leases are usually powered by lower cost of money called a money factor (think of it as an interest rate) that is discounted from the lease company or a subsidized residual. Subsidized residuals are virtually verboten on domestic vehicles due to their poor resell values. A subsidized residual works like this, you buy a Toyota Camry and the ALG (automotive lease guide) says it has a residual at 36 months of 48%. Well Toyota Motor Credit says we will give you a subvented residual of 60% basically subsidizing a 2% increase in residual. Since they do not expect to be able to sell the car at auction for that amount they have to set aside the 2% as a future expense. What does this mean to you, it means a lower payment. Also a good rule of thumb if you are told a money factor by your salesperson to figure out what the interest rate is just multiply it by 2400. So if a money factor is give of .00345 you know your actual interest rate is a little bit lower than 8.28% (illustration purposes only money factors are much lower than that right now). So how does this save you money well a lease is basically calculated by multiplying the MSRP by the residual and then subtracting that amount from the ""Capitalized Cost"" which is the Price paid for the car - trade in + payoff + TT&L-Rebate-Down Payment. That is the depreciation. Then you divide that number by the term of the loan and you have the depreciation amount. So if you have 20K CC and 10K R your D = 10K / 36 = 277 monthly payment. For the rest of the monthly payment you add (I think been a long time since I did this with out a computer) the Residual plus the CC for $30,000 * MF of .00345 = 107 for a total payment of 404 ish.
It depends on if it is a non-refundable deposit, retainer, etc. The remaining $1,500 is not included in that quarter's sales, because you have not yet received it and it is not guaranteed. The question is really if you should count the $500 toward the quarter where it is received, or during the quarter where you invoice. This deposit might be categorized as a liability until you invoice, and there is no sales tax to be calculated until the invoice for the total. I say 'might' because this can vary by state and the type of transaction or business. For example, if someone makes a cash down payment on a lease for a car, some states will require that sales tax be charged on this.
You can do it, provided that the bedroom is ONLY set up as an office. That is, no bed, TV or other stuff. You can stretch it a bit, considering a TV is also a monitor, a couch is also a visitor couch. Whatever route you choose you have to be able to justify what everything is doing there in case of a visit from the authorities. I am (was) in exactly the same situation for two years and had no problem deducting ~30% of the housing costs. That is, the usage of bathroom and utilities is calculated as proportional to the surface area given to the office. It might make more sense to move into a larger apartment just so you can have one designated office room. Edit: the above applies in Germany, YMMV, IANAL, etc. EU is pretty consistent though in regulations and as far as I know the above aplies in most EU countries.
Public/private keys are a method of having a secret that others can verify without being able to duplicate. They are used all over the internet and work really well.  The biggest algorithm is RSA. Google can explain better than I can.  The big issue with these methods are key management. Who makes the key, who knows the key, how do you recover a lost key etc.