vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
PayPal is free for buyers, taking their profit from the sellers -- in much the same way that credit cards take a percentage from the seller (though they will also charge you interest if you don't pay off the entire balance every month). As far as I know, there's nothing that keeps a vendor from having a different price for PayPal customers than cash customers... but that would show up in the number displayed by PayPal before you authorize the purchase, so if you're paying attention it shouldn't be possible to sneak it by you. PayPal has several modes of operation. I'm not aware of one where they hold your balance. Normally you either give them your credit card info, or you give them information about (one of your) bank account(s) and authorize them to do electronic funds transfer from and to that account on your behalf. I've always stuck with the credit card approach; I trust PayPal but I don't trust them that far, on principle. If I was going to link them to an account, it would be a small account I'd create for that purpose, NOT my main savings/checking accounts! (Hm. Actually, I do have one account which normally floats around $500 -- it's the one I dump accumulated pocket change into -- and I could use that. If I ever feel a need to do so.) PayPal does reduce the risk of credit card numbers being abused, by reducing how many people you've given the number to. Depending on what kinds of purchases you make, that may be a security advantage. It certainly doesn't hurt. Personally I have no problem with giving my card number directly to a serious business, but on eBay or sites of that sort where I'm dealing with individuals who are complete strangers I do like the isolation that PayPal provides. In other words, eBay is exactly the environment where I DO use PayPal. After all, that's exactly what PayPal was created for.
First suggestion: Investigate refinancing the auto loan with a reputable credit union or bank.  I reduced my costs by changing my auto loan to Pentagon Federal Credit Union, which charges about 4% interest rate (compared to 6% which was the standard about 2 years ago).  (for instructions on how to join penfed, look at my other post here.) Second suggestion: get involved with the better business bureau. 25% interest is ridiculous, I would file a complaint against the auto dealership.
"Great, I wonder how I the customer will be paying for this. I don't know exactly when it happened or the specifics but BOA lost 500 million in some bad loan or something a while back and a month later started taking on fees to what used to be free services. They started charging 5 dollars for a replacement debit card and other stuff like that. Their explantation for it was ""we have the right to make a profit"" when really it just seems they were covering their asses. Instead of cutting costs internally like an ethical/responsible company would, they make their customers pay for it. As soon as my credit card account goes up for renewal I am done with that bank."
"Create an account called, say, ""Paycheck"".  When you get paid, create an entry with your gross income as a deposit.  For each deduction in your paycheck, create a minus (or expense) entry.  After doing that, what will be left in the Paycheck account will be your net income.  Simply transfer this amount to the real account your paycheck goes into (your checking account, probably). Almost all the time, the value of your Paycheck account will be 0.  It will be nonzero only for a moment every two weeks (or however often you get paid). I don't know if this is the standard way of doing it (in the professional accounting world).  It's a way I developed on my own and it works well, I think.  I think it's better than just adding a deposit entry in your checking account for your net income as it lets you keep track of all your deductions. (I use Quicken for the Mac.  Before they added a Paycheck feature, I used this method.  Then they removed the Paycheck feature from the latest version of Quicken for the Mac and I now use this method again.)"
"The thing to look at is PayPal's ""PayPal.me"" service, which is a pretty neat little item.  When you sign up for a PayPal.me account (totally free), you create a unique username.  So for example, my PayPal.me account name is DanCAnderson.  I can give someone the following web link to send me $500: http://paypal.me/DanCAnderson/500 If you click the link above, you'll see what the user sees (my company name is Salt River Networks, Inc.).  I gave a live link so you can see the working example of it (no need for anyone to send money! chuckle). I can change the amount by simply changing the value at the end of the URL. When they go to that link, they see a landing page with your name on it and the amount to send to you, then they go through the normal process of paying via PayPal. It's a pretty neat service, and I've used to it bill a few clients for work I've done by emailing that link to them rather than going through the whole PayPal procedure."
"Technically it doesn't matter what size the check is. In fact, it doesn't even have to be written on paper. While writing it on a cow may not always fly, almost any object actually will. That said, more to the question asked - you can definitely use the smaller ""personal""-sized checks for a business account. The larger checks formatted to the ""letter"" page size: if you cut it into three equal pieces with a tiny bit left for the binder holes - you'll get exactly three check-sized pieces. This is convenient for those printing checks, keeping carbon-copy records etc. Regarding the MICR line: I just checked my business check book, which is of a smaller ""personal"" size (that I got for free from the bank) - the check number is at the end."
Ask around your area. Some stores will exchange because it saves them having to go to the bank to stock up on change. Some stores have machines that will convert the coins for a small percentage fee.  Some banks may do this exchange for folks who aren't customers, though that's uncommon.  My solution was to open a small account locally specifically as a place to dump my coins into. They'll even run a pile of coins through their counting machine for me, free, so I don't have to make up coin rolls as I did in the past.
"What I've found works best when working on my personal budget is to track my income and spending two different ways: bank accounts and budget categories. Here is what I mean: When I deposit my paycheck, I do two things with it: It goes into my checking account, so the balance of my checking account goes up by the amount of my paycheck. I also ""deposit"" the money from my checking account into my various budget category balances. This is separate from my bank account balances. Some of my paycheck money goes into my groceries category, some goes into clothing, some into car fuel, entertainment, mortgage, phone, etc. Some goes into longer range bills that only happen once or twice a year, such as car insurance, life insurance, property tax, etc. Some goes into savings goals of ours, such as car replacement, vacation, furniture, etc. Every dollar that we have in a bank account or in cash in our wallets is also accounted for in a budget category. If you add up the balances of our bank accounts and cash, and you add up the balances of our budget categories, they add up to the same number. When we make a purchase, this also gets accounted for twice: The appropriate bank account (or cash wallet) balance gets reduced by the purchase amount. The appropriate budget category gets reduced by the purchase amount. In this way, we don't really need to worry about having separate bank accounts for different purposes. We don't need to put our savings goal money in a separate bank account from our grocery money, if we don't want to. The budget category accounting keeps track of how much money is allocated to each purpose. Now, the budget category amounts are not spent yet; the money in them is still in our bank account, and we can move money around in the categories, if we change our mind on how to allocate them. For example, if we don't spend all of our gas money for the month, we can either keep that money in the gas category, or we can move it to a different category, such as the car replacement category or the vacation category. If the phone bill is more than we expect, we can move money around from a different category to cover it.
If enough businesses behave like Bigot Bobby, then even though everyone is acting without coercion, the natural rights of the Jews who must live as second class citizens have certainly been lost.   The fact that private clubs are exempted from these rules makes perfect sense--these are not businesses normally open to the public. It's apples and oranges. And comparing an actual church to a church-run business like a hospital (the type of business affected by the Obama legislation you allude to) is also inappropriate for the same reason.  It would certainly be nice to live in a world where everyone was free from coercion of any kind. But unless we abridge the rights of those with wealth and power to oppress others through economic means, the result will always be a large group of impoverished citizens that lack realistic opportunities for improvement. Being FORCED to live life as a second class citizen is FAR WORSE than being forced to do business with people you prefer to shun. Force of circumstance can limit your personal freedom every bit as much as force of law.  If you have any ideas about how to ensure all citizens have a realistic opportunity for success without any government intervention in the economy I'm all ears. In my ten years as a Libertarian I never found a realistic answer to this question and that is why I had to move from ideology to pragmatism. Libertarianism sounds excellent in theory, but in practice it would only make things worse for everyone but the very rich.
"Why? Because they can get away with it, of course. In short - why not? You may want to read the answers to this similar question (my answer is the one accepted by the OP). Who has the money? The banks, who else. I have found that some banks are capable of sending/receiving ACH transfers faster than others. I have accounts in two banks, lets call them A and B. If I send money (push) from A to B, it may take several days. But if I decide to pull the money from A to B by originating the transaction through my account at B - the money arrives the next day! So the actual transfer only takes a night, one business day. Its just the direction that matters - if the bank has to give the money out, it will do all it can (including taking 2-3 days for ""processing"") to keep the money as long as possible. But when another bank charges them - they have no choice but to pay. By the way, bank B behaves better - when I send the money from my account at B, it arrives to A the next day as well. Try a similar experiment. Instead of originating the transaction at the sender bank - try to originate it at the receiver bank, see how long it takes then for the money to appear on your account after it disappeared from the other one."
First of all, a person that relies on their ability to tap a line of credit to cover an emergency isn't generally the kind of person that has investments they can cash out to cover the debt. That being said, my personal reasons for having a liquid emergency fund revolve around bank errors and identify theft. I used to work for a company that made bank software. Errors are a common occurrence. You'd be surprised how many transactions are still input by human hands despite our computerized world. All it takes is one typo to wipe out your ability to swipe plastic for a few days. This has actually happened to me. My utility company sent me a bill for $240 and wound up taking $2400 by accident, overdrawing my account and sending me into a fee spiral. They fixed their mistake... several days later. The snowball of fees from other transactions that bounced took another two months to correct. In the meantime, I also had my mortgage payment due. In the US, you can't pay your mortgage with credit, and for those who rent, many landlords won't let you pay with credit either. I have also seen this scenario play out twice with other people I've known who've had their ID stolen. Yes, the bank will cover the fraud after a lengthy process. But the disruption causes fees and overdrafts to quickly snowball out of control. I have a separate savings account at a different bank for this kind of thing, and I have a few hundred dollars cash in my house at all times. Having a liquid emergency fund allows you to quickly stabilize the situation and gives you walking around money for those times where the banking system becomes your enemy for a time.
There could be a number of reasons for a rent increase. The only information I can offer is how I calculate what rent I will charge. The minimum I would ever charge per unit (Mortgage payment + Water) / Number of units This number is the minimum because it's what I need to keep afloat.  Keep in mind these are ballpark numbers The target rent ((Mortgage payment + Water) / Number of units)*1.60 I mark up the price 60% for a few reasons. First, the building needs a repair budget. That money has to come from somewhere. Second, I want to put away for my next acquisition and third I want to make a profit. These get me close to my rental price but ultimately it depends on your location and the comparables in the area. If my target rent is 600 a month but the neighbors are getting 700-800 for the same exact unit I might ask more. It also depends on the types of units. Some of my buildings, all of the units are identical. Other buildings half of the units are bigger than the other half so clearly I wouldn't charge a equal amount for them. Ultimately you have to remember we're not in the game to lose money. I know what my renters are going to pay before I even put an offer in on a building because that's how I stay in business. It might go up over the years but it will always outpace my expenses for that property.
How much are we talking about here?  My own experience (Switzerland->US, under $10K) was that the easiest way was just $100 bills.  Alternatively, I just left a bunch in the Swiss bank, and used my ATM card to make withdrawals when needed.  That worked for several years (I was doing contract work remotely for the Swiss employer, who paid into that account), until the bank had issues with the IRS (unrelated to me!) and couriered me a check for the balance.
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Hey dipshit, of *course* I respect the right for people to have a difference of opinion. I just told you twice now you're free to think whatever you want and I didn't for a second try and force you to think another way now did I?  In fact i told you to have fun.
Lol this is a troll account if I've ever seen one. But to answer your question it's for my website, e-mail, business card, etc. I'm a voice actor and my studio needs to have a brand for tax purposes and booking jobs.
While the rest of the answers seem to be focusing on the parenting strategies around giving children an allowance, I'd like to address how to accomplish that.   I think the best most reasonable way to just to supply him with a checking and savings account at whichever bank you use.  Most reasonable banks will have some form of no-fee account for minors/young people; others will waive fees if you have it paired with your account.  Whatever way to can swing it, get the kid an account he can deposit/withdraw from and that is free of any additional services.  He doesn't need to learn the pain of overdrafts or random fees yet.  Then, just set up a recurring weekly/monthly transfer to the account, and let him determine his own allocation to savings and spending.  If he can manage it online, even better, that's a far more useful skill than knowing how to fill out a deposit slip at the bank.
You did not ""pay for my food,"" you did not ""make it possible for me to get food,"" or anything of the sort. *I paid for it myself*, by trading labor for cash in exactly the same way that you could trade gold for cash. Second, the price system of value allows you to earn a ""normal profit,"" which means sufficient profit for resources to remain within an industry. But ""excess profit"" harms market efficiency and thus the price system. This is pure capitalist theory, straight from Adam Smith; it is nothing to do with socialism or communism. It is quite clear that David Siegel is taking excess profit. This is no different from the sort of profiteering I described when there's only one gold dealer in town. It is parasitic behavior according to *capitalist* theory. And finally, David Siegel is the guy who invented high-pressure selling of timeshares by inviting familes to a ""free"" vacation, trapping them in a room, and basically holding them hostage until they sign on the dotted line. His business is near-criminal. You can argue that drug kingpins also create thousands of jobs - that doesn't make them good people, or their actions beneficial to society. I already thought David Siegel was a parasite on society before I ever heard of his opinion on Obama. And quite frankly, I'm shocked and appalled that people are actually defending him."
This sounds like a perfect application for a cryptocurrency. There are already some currencies designed for use in-game. Gamecredits and Voxel come to mind but there are others. You could use on of them or you could create your own just for your game.  I second what others said about letting prices change naturally according to supply and demand.
How do I directly get my Freelancing amount in my Axis bank account? Do I need to inform my Bank before receiving any such payment?  Yes you can get it directly into your Axis Bank Account. You would need to inform your client your Bank Account Number, Bank Name and Address and Swift BIC or IFSC Code [Axis Bank website or Branch can tell you]. You can receive credits in Euro's. Upon receipt Axis Bank will automatically convert this into Rupees using standard rate. Your Bank [Axis] may also charge some Bank fees for the wire transfer. How do I pay tax for this extra income in India?  You would need to treat this as income and add it to total income including salary and calculate tax accordingly. You can pay taxes online using Income Tax India website. You can also approach a CA who would do the tax computation, paying taxes and filing returns for as little as Rs 1000 - 2000/- Edit: IBAN is International Bank Account Number. Explain to you client that India does not subscribe to IBAN. Its right now only used by Europe and Australia. Give you normal Bank Account Number. Please call up your Bank / walk into your Branch to get the SWIFT BIC. It will be something like this http://www.theswiftcodes.com/india/page/3/
There are several ways to minimize the international wire transfer fees: Transfer less frequently and larger amounts. The fees are usually flat, so transferring larger amounts lowers the fee percentage. 3% is a lot. In big banks, receiving is usually ~$15. If you transfer $1000 at a time, its 1.5%, if you transfer $10000 - it's much less, accordingly. If you have the time - have them send you checks (in US dollars) instead of wire transferring. It will be on hold for some time (up to a couple of weeks maybe), but will be totally free for you. I know that many banks have either free send and/or receive. I know that ETrade provides this service for free. My credit union provides if for free based on the relationship level, I have a mortgage with them now, so I don't pay any fees at all, including for wire transfer. Consider other options, like Western Union. Those may cost more for the sender (not necessarily though), but will be free for the receiver. You can get the money in cash, or checks, which you can just deposit on your regular bank account. For smaller amounts, it should be much cheaper than wire transfer, for example - sending $500 to India costs $10, while wire transfer is $30.
I did some empirical research, comparing the exchange rates for wire transfers vs. the exchange rates for ATM withdrawals. With my bank, wire transfers typically take a 4% float off the exchange rate. ATM withdrawals seem to take just over 2%. And ATM withdrawals don't have a wire transfer fee, as long as I'm withdrawing from a branch of the same bank (overseas). The only problem with ATM withdrawals is the daily limit. As far as I can see, Tor's answer above has it completely backwards, at least with my bank, ATM withdrawals are a much better value. Do the research yourself...call the bank you're going to transfer from and find out what their current exchange rate is. Compare it to the current spot rate (e.g. XE.com) to determine how much of a cut the bank is taking. Then, if you can, withdraw some cash from the foreign location with your ATM card and see how much of the original currency is deducted from your account. In this way you can empirically discover for yourself the better rate.
FreeStockCharts.com keeps some intra-day trading history.  You have to create an account to look up individual stocks.  Once you create a free account you can get intra-day trading history for the last month (Hourly for past month, 15 minutes for past week, 1 minute for past day).  Going back past one month and it only keeps daily close history. Here is Family Dollary's (FDO) hourly intra-day chart for the past month:
There is no reason you must buy the bank's printed check. There are many places both physical stores and on line the offer check printing.  From what I've seen, the requirement is the use of a magnetic ink the bank's equipment can properly scan. I may not even be correct there if they've all gone fully optical. The checks you buy on line are a fraction of the cost the bank would charge you.  Edit - On searching, I find VistaPrint offers free checks. I've not ordered checks from them, but I suspect free orders require you pay shipping. I've used VistaPrint for business cards, promotional items, and holiday cards. I can say, I've been pleased with their quality.  Update - The free checks from VistaPrint are no longer available.
In all fairness, I have turned opportunities from their site into my own personal cash machine, so this is quid pro quo to me. It is my personal rolodex that self updates. I perceive value in the site. Where else can I click a few buttons and find out who I know or have connections to at a given company for business purposes? For free? I'm trying to reconcile this with why I don't mind them yet I dislike facebook so much.