vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
In the UK it is almost always better to purchase with a credit card for transactions above £100 but below £30,000. This is due to Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974 which makes your credit card company jointly liable if something goes wrong. In other words, if you buy something worth £1000 with your credit card, the company fails to deliver for any reason and you cannot get a refund from them directly, you are entitled to make a claim from your credit card company for the full amount.
one should run their personal business like a company.  I walked away from major credit card debt three years ago.  soon the debt will be effectively gone forever, I having paid nothing.   Fuckers should have negotiated. eat shit big banks.
It depends on the seller.  If the seller wants, they can collect the information from you and send it to the payment gateway.  In that case, they of course have everything that you provide at some point.  They are not supposed to keep the security code, and there are rules about keeping the credit card number safe.   The first four digits of the credit card number often indicate the bank, although smaller banks may share.  But for example a Capital One card would indicate the bank.   Other sellers work through a payment gateway that collects the information.  Even there, the seller may collect most of the information first and send it to the gateway.  In particular, the seller may collect name, email, phone, and address information.  And in general the gateway will reveal that kind of information.  They will not give the seller credit card info other than the name on the card, expiration date, and possible last four digits.  They may report if the address matches the card's billing address (mismatched addresses may mean fraud).   Buying through someone like PayPal can provide the least information.  For a digital good, PayPal can only expose the buyer's name (which may be a business name) and email (associated with the payment account).  However PayPal still has the other information and may expose it under legal action (e.g. if the credit card transaction is reversed or the good sold is illegal).  And even PayPal will expose the shipping address for physical goods that require shipping.
I used to work for a online payment posting company. Anytime a payment is made via Credit Card to a company that does not have PCI DSS(aka the ability/certification to store credit card information) there is a MD5 checksum(of the confirmation code, not the Credit Card information) that get sent to the company from the processor(billing tree, paypal, etc). The company should be able to send this information back to the processor in order to refund the payment.  If the company isn't able to do this, to be honest they shouldn't be taking online credit card payments. And by all means do not send your credit card information in an email. As said above, call the company's customer service line and give them the info to credit your account.
In a similar situation I wrote about How I Made $4,000+ on a Cash Back Credit Card Offer. The total was actually $4550, and was from an insane offer from a new credit card my bank advertised. 10% cash back on all spending during the first 90 days. I wondered if gift card purchases counted, and more than store cards, I saw that Visa gift cards with a $500 value sold for a $4.95 fee. A 1% hit.  It would have been foolish to load up, and realize that they were somehow excluded, so I bought 2 and followed the transaction on line. When I saw the 10% credit, I went full steam, and bought these, $2000 at a time, as that was the limit CVS imposed. In the end, I stopped at $50,000. (And the bank killed the online offer about $25K into this, but still honored my 90 days) Yes, I had to make payments mid cycle to avoid the card limit ($20K), but in the end, the bit of effort paid off. It took a bit over a year and a half to burn through them. In hindsight, I'd do it for $100K if the opportunity came up. Cash in the bank is earning near zero.    TL:DR Make a small purchase and confirm your card gives you the bonus you expect.
If you paid by credit card, file a dispute with the credit card company. They will credit you the money immediately while they investigate. The burden of proof will then be on the merchant. Keep your documents handy in case you need them: USPS receipt, proof of delivery, copies of all correspondance, etc. File the credit card chargeback now, because there are time limits. The FTC has more information.
Paying up in full before the statement is posted does not seem a good idea. I feel you should keep some small amount to be posted as a statement balance and pay that in full each month. If you keep your statements as always 0 will give creditors an impression that you have cards and you don't utilize them, so they cant really gauge how you preform being debt, whether you are able to manage your debt well etc. I always keep <100 dollar in every credit card I have to be posted a statement balance. I have >100k credit line over 3 cards. So if I take air ticket to SE Asia runs into 3000$ for my family, I pay 2900.00 a day before statement generates and keep 100 for statement to be posted. pay 100 the next day or as auto debit. This way you have some utilization + lower credit card outstanding at any point make your utilization right in single digits.
"First of all, this does not sound like a debit situation. Every debit has to be authorized by the entry of a pin code. So, the hotel could not have arbitrarily created a new debit charge. Usually, hotel charges are credit charges. Once they have your credit card number, they can charge anything they want to the credit card. If it is an accidental double charge, you can call the hotel and ask them to refund $100 or whatever the mistake was plus your overdraft fee. In all probability they will refund any double charge, but not agree to refund the fee. You can also contest the charge and do a ""chargeback"" of the amount which was double charged. You will probably not be able to collect the overdraft fee that you got from the hotel unless you sue them in small claims court, or you luck out and the hotel agrees to refund the fee as well."
"Abine has a product for iOS and Android (and desktop), now called called Blur, that provides credit card masking (alias credit card numbers), along with other privacy services. It's subscription-based. I've used it successfully for a number of transactions over the past year or so. To the merchant, you supply any name, Abine's address, and the specific masked credit card number and code. You can create any number of masked cards with different credit amounts, and the charges show up on your real card statement as ""Abine, Inc.""."
I don't know about India, but here in the US banks, and more friendly institutions such as credit unions, use to offer the option of a 'secured' credit card where the card was secured by placing a lock on money in a savings account equal to the credit limit on the card. So for example, if you had $1500 in savings, you could have them lock say $1000, which you would not be able to withdraw from savings, in return for a credit card account with a credit limit of $1000.  Typically you still earned interest on the full amount of the savings, you were just limited to having to maintain a minimum balance in that account of $1000.
Yes you can deposit money into your credit card. When you make a repayment of your credit card bill you are making a deposit into it and it will show up as a credit on your statement. If you get a refund for an item you returned this will also be listed as a credit on your statement.
I suggest opening a Credit Card that doesn't charge Foreign currency conversion fees. Here is the list of cards without such a fee, Bankrate's Foreign transaction fee credit card chart
"While I agree with Ben a lot I feel like his answer is really poor here. You do not call a number to give your credit card information out for a refund.  That is ridiculous.  Just from his answer - he has had 5 cases of fraud lately - you should know that you shouldn't follow this advice. I personally don't ever give my credit card number over the phone, unless it is the very very very last resort.  It is not just about money and safety but it is about time.  Every time that you give your number out over the phone there is a chance that the employee on the other end (by either scam or legitimate business) will use or sell your info.  So you need to determine if the time saved by doing a transaction over the phone is worth hours/days of your time if your card has a fraud issue.  And note that fraud sometimes is easily negated, but if done smartly can be hard to prove via a quick call or email to card company. What should you do? Tell company that you will simply get the refund through your credit card company. And if we go back to time element...  You fill out form on card website.  Card company goes back to vendor and says - ""Why are you asking for card numbers via email?""  Card company either cancels vendor contract or more likely helps them understand the technology available so they don't have to do this.  Therefore that quick form that you filled out will now keep this company from bugging you again.  By going through their archaic ""systems"" you are enabling their behavior."
"No to both. The deposit refund is not taxable, but in states where security must earn interest, that small amount is subject to tax. I just returned a $750 deposit to a tenant, and after a year, it accrued $0.24.  A rebate of fees you pay such as ATM fees is just you getting back your own money. As is ""cash back"" on credit card purchases. Not taxable."
Call the credit card company you used to fund the account and file claims against each transaction used to top up the entropay account.  File it either as merchandise not received, or in your case it sounds like unauthorized transaction would be appropriate as well.  Your (real) credit card company will lodge the dispute and get your money back, usually will credit your account back within a couple of days.  Be sure to follow up with your credit card company, as they usually send you some forms to fill out and sign before they finalize the claim.
Should a consumer put any effort into worrying about this at all? (Why?) In my opinion, it makes sense to be careful what you do with your credit card number, if only to avoid the inconvenience. Don't type your credit card number into an e-mail message, for example, and only use it on websites that you trust. That having been said, it is not worth it to be paranoid about it, either. No matter how careful you are, eventually you will probably use it at a store that gets hacked, or your card will get skimmed somewhere, and you'll need to get a new credit card number. The best way to protect yourself is to make sure that you go over your credit card statement each month and look for any fraudulent charges that the bank didn't catch."
I thought this was because credit card companies charge the retailer a fee to accept credit card payments. If you spend $100, the retailer pays $1 (or whatever percentage they have negotiated) to the credit card provider.  Handing over $100 cash and paying $1 fee to Visa means a loss to the retailer. The same transaction on $100 worth of product means the loss is accepted out of the profit margin which the retailer accepts to attract custom.
That transaction probably cost the merchant $0.50 + 3% or close to $5.  They should have refunded your credit card so they could have recouped some of the fees. (I imagine that's why big-box retailers like Home Depot always prefer to put it back on your card than give you store credit) Consider yourself lucky you made out with $0.15 this time.  (Had they refunded your card, the 1% of $150 credit would have gone against next month's reward) Once upon a time folks were buying money from the US Mint by the tens of thousands $ range and receiving credit card rewards, then depositing the money to pay it off.. They figured that out and put a stop to it.
This is normal for credit cards.  As long as you make the credit card company's cutoff time, they will make the funds available on your credit card rather than make you wait for them to actually get the funds from your bank. The amount of time this takes actually can vary significantly from bank to bank. You do want to make sure funds are available in your bank account for them to withdraw when they do take them though. If not, the payment would get returned and can set red flags on your credit card account that take a while to drop off.
The company had been through many rounds of private financing prior to that.  There was a particular round where Mercedes Benz invested a lot of money which Elon credits with saving the company.  Elon says that the company would probably have survived but just taken longer to get to market, or done so at a slower ramp, without the government money.  Of course, he may be saying that for whatever PR reasons, but he's been pretty open about when the company was on the brink of death before, so I tend to believe it.  Keep in mind, they had already made money on the Roadster prior to the government loan (not a lot, but had they not been spending on Model S R&amp;D it would have produced a profit - but the whole intent to begin with was to fund Model S R&amp;D with the Roadster).  Also, the government loan was a loan, and that loan was paid back.  I don't see people criticizing Nissan, for example, for taking government loans, even though theirs was 10x the size of Tesla's and has not yet been paid back (by the way, I also am not criticizing Nissan for that, I'm just saying neither should be criticized).  Tesla, in fact, got the least money of any company out of that particular loan program.  Including Fisker, who got more money despite having a worse business plan.
It's not a question with a single right answer.  Other answers have addressed some aspects, my case may provide some guidance as to one way of looking at some of the issues. When I had student loans, the interest rate was RPI¹ and I could get more than that as the return on a savings account.  At the time I could get a whole year's worth of loan at the start of the year, save it, and draw from the savings, partly because I had a little working capital saved already.  Importantly in my case, the loans were use-it-or-lose-it: if I didn't take the loan out by about halfway through each academic year, it was no longer available to me. The difference in interest rates was probably similar to what you can get with a careful choice of savings account and 0% on the loan (I did this in the 90s when interest rates were higher). Over a four year degree the interest I earned this way added up to no more than about £100, which went someway towards offsetting the fact I would be paying interest after graduation. If you can clear the loan before you pay any interest it would give you a return, but a small one that could easily be eroded by rate changes or errors on your part (like not keeping on top of the paperwork).  It still may be beneficial to take out the loans depending on your capital needs -- in my case it made buying a house after graduating much easier, as we still had money for the deposit (downpayment) and student loan rates were much lower than mortgage rates (100% mortgages were also available then, but expensive). ¹ RPI stands for retail price index, a measure of inflation.
I used to work as a sale support for one of these companies. As a sale support I didn't get commission from the sale but a sale manager did and he made good money. However, I ended up doing a lot of the sales myself and never got any commission for it (even though the boss kept promising me that I would get them). It's relatively easy money, but I felt like you have to sell your soul a little. It's hard to justify for yourself that a 30% interest for a 6 month term is a great deal so you can get your guests to take the loan. Most of the clients you will likely get are the ones who 1) have little knowledge about finance and/or 2) cannot get a loan anywhere else. Nobody would get a loan with these companies if they have a better choice. I also found it was borderline harassment for my clients because I was forced to constantly call them few times a day to get them into taking our loan offers. I did end up leaving the company after three months because the boss was disrespectful, degrading and thought he could do it all himself.  Back to your question, it is not shady mostly because it's definitely legal but the sales tactics can be. That would depend on your management but I would say most companies probably employs similar tactics.
"It's not precisely meant for that.  You could do it and get a business loan, though.  But it's not set up to take into account after-production shares, royalties.  It's just a simple ""I want 25,000 to develop film"" and then a bunch of people give you money and you pay interest."
"The part that I find confusing is the loan/stock hybridization.  Why would the investor be entitled to a 30% share if he's also expecting to be getting paid back in full? This is the part that's making me scratch my head.  I can understand giving equity and buying out later.  I can understand giving equity with no expectation of loan repayment.  I can understand loan repayment without equity.  I can even understand collateralizing the loan with equity.  I can not understand how ""zeroing out"" the loan still leaves him with a claim on 30% of the equity. Would this be more of a good will gesture as a way to thank the investor for taking a chance?  Please forgive any naivety in my questions."
I hate apples business practice down to the core, but whenever a not-so-tech-savvy friend or older gentleman/lady asks me what I think about Apple,...I cite their customer service.  A lot of the other companies out there either require a million dollar service package, or you are on the phone with a call center in India.  I don't mind this myself as I love the freedom it gives me over Apple (Hell, none of my software/hardware (except my laptop) is an OEM package)...but for an older lady who just cant seem to figure out how to get her email open...an apple care center (or whatever they call them, genius bars?) down the road is a fantastic option.
I would first get rid of the student loan.  This will leave you with 11K.  I would then use this to fund your ROTH.  If you are married you can put up to 5K per year each.  For any money left over, I would open a regular (not tax advantaged) mutual fund.  You can contribute half the money you were paying toward your student loans, and the other half can go to your mortgage.  Also I would look at doing a refi on your house.  You might be able to move a 10 or 15 year at your current mortgage payment.
"I'd change my attitude a bit. ""I'm not very good with saving money, unless I know I need to.""  If you could act as if you absolutely needed to save, but took the subsidized loan and set it aside, you'd have a good start.  As a student, it would be difficult to raise money the way an established working person might. A low interest credit card, a 401(k) loan, Home Equity Loan, etc.  If you feel it would be too tempting to set it aside, don't take it. Your question is fine, but the answer isn't financial, it's behavioral."
&gt; How long do you think Amazon can sustain these prices?  Long enough to take a chunk out of Walmart and force them into a different business stratagem I hope. We lucked out with Amazon because it was looking for a while there like no one would come along to challenge Walmart.
"Well, first off - yes, every year the younger generation grows up but remember that the older generation also dying off/leaving the market place. Also, what happens if the younger generation can't take up enough debt in order to pay for previous commitments?  Secondly, I think you're confusing the money supply with actual production. The two are pretty much divorced from each other - money doesn't require a ""resource"" per se (at least, not since leaving the gold standard), it just requires that someone is able/willing to take on debt. For example, every time you take a loan out from the bank, you are effectively creating money. This is called bank credit and if you live in a country that uses fractional reserve banking then it makes up a very large part of your money supply (think like up to 95%). When bank's create money, they only create the principle amount (ie. the original loan amount) and not the interest amount as well. This means that someone else needs to take out a loan so that you can repay the amount in interest that you owe on your new loan. This doesn't normally affect you because there are lots of people taking out lots of loans all the time and money is circulating around in the economy. The problem is that eventually the system gets to a stage where people can't really take out loans any more, they just have too much debt, and so you end up with a liquidity crisis like in 2008.   So what I was saying is that either I'm missing something pretty obvious and I've got this wrong or this is exactly how it works and economists like to just ignore it for the benefits that it offers..."
I would like to open a bra shop, since where I live we have Victoria's Secret and nothing else.  I have a name and logo thought out, and always keep an eye out for reasonable locations.  I've talked myself out of moving forward with it, because it seems any time there's talk of a store fancier than a Walmart/Dollar store coming to town, everyone gets on about it being a working class/blue collar town, and how no one can afford x/y/z.  Good bras aren't cheap.  I'd also need to hire staff, because I'm not keen on being that close to people.  I've daydreamed about bars and restaurants, with questionable, kitschy themes.
I think you're missing a couple of things. First - why do you think its a reverse mortgage? More likely than not its a regular mortgage - home equity loan. If so, if they expect the stock market to rise significantly more than the amount of interest they pay on the loan - then its a totally sensible course of action. Second - the purchase in cash only to take out a loan later can definitely be a sensible way to do things. For example, if the seller wants to close fast, or if there are competing offers where not having a contingency is the tipping point. Another reason might be purchasing in an entity name (for example holding the title as an LLC), and in this case it is easier to get a loan if you already have the house, since the banks see the owner's actual commitment and not just promises.
There are a bunch of ERP options out there, as you can see here:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ERP_software_packages and many of them are free and/or open source.  If I were doing an ERP implementation today I would think a lot about a Software as a Service (SaaS) solution that I didn't have to scale or maintain.  I don't know a lot about the players, but they are typically easy to try out online- folks like OpenERP or ERPNext.  And oddly, it looks like Microsoft has a decent solution called Dynamics.
Ok, thanks for your explanation. This makes much more sense. I'm still confused on a few things though. Does the US government charge a higher fee to UPS and FedEx because they use a higher percentage of the traffic on us highways/freeways? Moreover, is the US government allowed to work out an exclusive deal with UPS to give them priority traffic (perhaps by selling them a tag that allows them to use the fast lane while others can't)? I recognize that the government is different than telecoms, but to stretch the metaphor imagine the freeways are owned by private business. Should private business be allowed to sell priority delivery on a system subsidized by taxpayers? A system that is subsidized primarily because an open neutral network provides a broader marketplace than a patchwork of privately owned roads/communication channels?   Also, doesn't Netflix have to pay significantly higher prices to get adequate upload speed to serve their customers? Shouldn't those fees cover the huge bandwidth they are using? (This is an honest question, I'm not informed on how data servers pay to connect to the internet.)