vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
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&gt;My parable shows the mechanics of how money works.  No, it doesn't.  It shows the mechanics of how a market for credit derivatives works, not money.  Money has no counterparty risk - it is generally a commodity.  So the first thing you should have done in your post (to explain it to a ten year old) is to explain this key distinction.  &gt;I said I wouldn't get into the gold-standard debate, and I won't, and here's why  There's a very important difference between advocating a gold standard and simply pointing out that legal tender laws exist and aren't a good idea.  Your OP's completely gloss over this fact, and they even mislead people into believing that emergent markets naturally use credit derivatives as money rather than commodities (which have no counterparty risk).
You have little chance of getting it deleted. I have the same situation, I closed mine in 2006, and the login still works. Keep the paperwork that you closed it (or print a PDF of the site showing so), and forget about it. If someone is trying to cheat, re-opening it should be the same difficulty as making a new one in your name, so it is not really an additional risk. You could also set the username and password both to a long random string, and not keep them. That soft-forces you to never login again. Note that it will also stay on your credit record for some years (but that's not a bad thing, as it is not in default; in the contrary). The only negative is that if you apply for credit, you might be ashamed of people seeing you ever having had a Sears or Macy's card or so.
Sorry, but you are the exception and not the rule -- and from your description of how stressful the parking and shopping experience is you must be in a large city.  Maybe it makes sense in SF, I never lived there but having worked there it's a PIA to get around.    $60/mo as  added expense to isn't going to work for many.  A large percentage of American grocery shoppers use coupons which indicates how price conscious they are and explains the failed adoption of these grocery delivery services.  My grocery bill is $200/mo so a 30% convenience fee is ridiculous.  Until they can bring cost parity for grocery delivery to the same as I can pickup in store I don't see any of this panning out.
It could be a sunk cost.  If you buy 5 gallons of vegetable oil it costs $50.  Until you use up all the vegetable oil you dollars are tied up and cannot be spent on popcorn or any other good. So weigh if the convenience is more important than having the cash on hand for other purchases is another factor to consider
"If you were asking if you should buy silver for an emergency fund, I'd say no. But, you already have it... Note: I wrote most of the below under the assumption that this is silver bullion coins/bars; it didn't occur to me till the end that it could be jewelry. Both of you have good arguments for your points of view. Breaking it down: Her points 1. A very good point. And while she may not be irresponsible, maybe the invisibility of it is good for her psychology? It's her's, so her comfort is important here. 2. Good. Make sure it's explicitly listed on the policy. 3. Bad. I think it will as well, at least the long run. But, this is not a good reason for an emergency fund -- the whole point of which is to be stable in case of emergencies. 4. Good. Identity theft is a concern, though unless her info is already ""out there"", it's insufficient for the emergency fund. And besides, she could keep cash. Your points 1. Iffy. On the one hand, you're right. On the other hand, Cyprus. It is good to remember that money in accounts is in someone else's control, not yours, as the Cypriots found out to their chagrin. And of course, it can't happen here, but that's what they thought too. There is value in having some hard assets physically in your control. Think of it as an EMERGENCY emergency fund. Cash works too, but precious metals are better for these mega-upheaval scenarios. Again, find out how having such an EMERGENCY fund would make her feel. Does having that give her some comfort? A gift from a family member of this much silver leads me to assume that her family might have a little bit of a prepper culture. If so, then even if she is not a prepper herself, she may derive some comfort from having it, just in case -- it'll be baked into her background. Definitely a topic to discuss with her. 2.
Unfortunately, sex is such an important and intimate part of our human mind.It is hardly surprising that it generates so many problems for so many people. In the world all men want girls to fuck for her level.Do not be afraid to say what is on your mind, just as long as you are not making it sound like you are acting out a part of a porn movie. For instance, when you tell your partner how good his or her skin feels on yours, it shows that the slow, close and passionate moment of love.
"I somewhat agree to Alex B's post.  I was a finance manager for 7 years both prime and sub-prime(special)(in other words bad).   The parts he's 100% right on.  Hit up you local credit union then your bank.  Get your financing done first if you can.  Now 690 credit score is one of 3 bureaus, not all banks and lending institutions use all three or the same one.  Also the score isn't everything.  That could be good or bad.  The 2-3% range is normally for the 720+ crowd unless its a manufacture.  (GM, Ford, so on)  With rates capping out at around 30% depending on state laws.  However 690 should not be 19% on a new or late model car.  At 690 at 19% you would have be going for a 70,000+ mile 6 year or older car if I had to guess. Assuming you have no BK's and repos.   Some times dealerships have to pay banks to get people financed.  Its hidden in the cost and they by law are not allowed to tell you about it because it cannot be passed on to you.  However the banks don't just fund any crazy amount of money either say like 115% of book and  that it.  That is where and why they want that big down payment because that is used to off set the finance amount and what you pay.  Making the dealership money.  and i can go on and on and on...   But you should always try to get the funding prior.  Your credit union won't charge the hidden fees and they only care about your down payment to see that you are making a commitment.  If you are buying used.  Save out 1500 for future repairs and tires and such.  Don't buy paint protectant and such.  If you finance thru the dealership and put less than 20% down DO buy Gap Insurance but thats it.  I can go on and on but I won't.  Feel free to ask though.   And to answer your original only question with not context. ""Is there any reason not to put a 35% down payment on a car?"" Yes if the money is better served paying off credit cards or long term mortgage, assuming you don't need the write off."
Greg Lindberg Greg Lindberg is constantly exposed to media. Indeed, this entire stimulus has a profound effect on the brain, making it difficult to sit back and simply relax. For Greg Lindberg, meditation offers a way to handle and ease most stressful situations. Here’s what he suggest: Sit down somewhere quietly, close your eyes, and just stay in the present.
#2 is really important.    Western tourists hate getting assaulted by a bunch of shouting people who are all trying to get their attention and sell them something.  It's really stressful.   You just need to be calm, quiet, smile, make eye contact, and speak in normal English to get attention.  Some distinctive/visible clothes/hat/trademark accessory could be helpful just to make you stand out a bit and be memorable.         I would get a tshirt printed with the front explaining your services/prices to major destinations and the back with important info that can be read while driving.
Not having a job does not automatically disqualify you.  If you had capital or savings or easily liquidatable assets and previous good credit history then you would qualify. This is a catch 22 for most people that are ever applying for unsecured lines of credit, and an oximoron when seeking UNSECURED credit, but this is how it is regardless. Hope that helps!
How much is the deposit? Will it cover damage that may not exist yet? Don't think that just because you plan on evicting them soon, it isn't important. People can trash a place on the way out and an expensive lawsuit could be your only recourse. It is far easier to take a deposit than sue. I would absolutely demand that the deposit transfer to you upon sale. View the current renters with a fresh eye. Especially if you are considering leave it a rental, look into all of the typical requirements: Their monthly income, their credit history, their criminal record, their payment history, their references. Are they likely to be good or terrible renters? If you're interested in the property, consider an offer which requires the current landlord to evict within the time-frame of the buy/sell agreement. This isn't an uncommon requirement. I think the first thing to do is go look at the property and see if you can determine for yourself why it hasn't sold yet. Properties all have different reasons for not selling in a reasonable time to the local market. Having renters alone in most markets shouldn't be that big of a factor. I would suspect bad smells, nasty renters, or an unfavorable lease agreement exists."
This belong in /r/redacted  If there's a market correction (not crash, as the economy is on good foundation), it will not topple the sitting president, as it did not topple other president who went through corrections and crashes.  The economy is improving a lot under Trump. Hence the stock market going up.  &gt;  the Swamp is so undrainable that it will end up making mincemeat of Donald Trump  Then give up? Actually, that's why Trump was elected.
The workaround solution is to simply avoid having an exactly zero balance on your account. Thus for inactive credit cards that I want to keep around for emergency use, I always leave a small positive balance on the card. The credit card company reserves the right to cancel my card at any time, but a positive balance would force them to send me a check for the privilege of doing so. A positive balance avoids making the account appear inactive and makes it cheaper for them to simply leave the account open.
It's interesting how ups doesn't seem to be having a problem (a private company).    It's more evidence that the government isn't really good at running anything.  It's partially because they don't have to worry about making a profit and since it's not their money (it's ours), piss it away.  If they can't even run something simple as the post office without nearly going out of business, healthcare is an impossibility.
1) I don't give a goddam about what Romney said. That's not what *I'm* talking about, and I have no interest in defending or attacking it. You brought up Romney, no one else is talking about him.  2) The state is just as able to make or take *your* personhood as it is a corporations. That blade cuts every direction, remember. Of course corporations are only imbued with personhood (which they aren't, really, it's not like they can vote) because the state says they are. No one said otherwise.   3) &gt;my personal expenses such as food, car maintenance, rent, etc were not tax deductible  They most certainly would be if you had your business in your home, discussed business at every meal, and used your car for work.  Turns out, a corporation uses the things it owns for business, and thus gets to deduct them as business expenses.  It's also possible for businesses to have expenses that are not deductible. Entertainment expenses, for example, are not deductible.
"See this question regarding the relationship between a HDHP (High Deductible Health Plan) and an HSA (Health Savings Account). In brief, to qualify for an HSA you must have a HDHP: HDHPs are plans with a minimum deductible of $1,200 for self-only coverage and $2,400 for self-and-family coverage. The maximum amount out-of-pocket limit for HDHPs is $5,950 for self-only coverage and $11,900 for self-and-family coverage. As mentioned by Stainsor, your insurance can either come from your employer, or it can be an individually purchased plan. The HSA can be bundled as part of a package with the insurance, or it can be an account you set up separately. Contributions you make to the HSA are tax deductible. You'll report the amount you contributed when you file your taxes the following year. E.g. in April 2012 you'll report (and deduct) the amount of HSA contributions you made for tax year 2011. I'm not sure what kind of trouble you'll get into if you have an HSA without having a qualified HDHP. To answer the main part of your question: Different HSAs may have slightly different features, but I've typically seen them provide the following ways to withdraw funds: Via a debit card issued with the account. You can use the debit card to pay for things like drugs at the pharmacy, or at a doctors' office that requires payment at the time of service. Via online bill pay. You can use this to pay bills from hospitals, doctors' offices, or other healthcare service providers that send you bills. Via paper checks. For doctors' offices that require payment at time of service but don't accept plastic. (Or if you prefer not to use online bill pay.) Via withdrawal at a teller window or ATM. You can use this to ""reimburse yourself"" for healthcare expenses that you paid out of pocket. The issue of documenting legitimate expenses and/or qualifying for the account with an HDHP is between you and the IRS. The bank at which your HSA is kept doesn't really care whether you comply with the tax laws."
"Unfortunately, the only thing you can say is ""Here have $1,200."" You need to start living inside your means. If you are not making as much money as you once were, then you need to stop spending money.  You should cancel your travel, and really look at your expenses to see what you can cut. You need to pay off the entire credit card then decide what you wan to do with it.  You should never spend more on a credit card then you actually have in the bank. If you have a credit card with a $500 limit and $10 in the bank, feel free to spend $10, but under normal circumstances, you should not spend the other $490 as you do not actually have the money. I recommend using ""envelope budgeting"" like yNAB, to get your expenses back to an amount you can actually afford to pay, and to pay off this debt as fast as you can, even though it may mean ramen noodles for a while."
Source on GOV.UK You may be able to get tax back for some of the bills you have to pay because you have to work at home on a regular basis. You can only claim for things to do with your work, eg business telephone calls or the extra cost of gas and electricity for your work area. You can’t claim for things that you use for both private and business use, eg rent or broadband access. You don’t need to provide records for claims of up to £4 per week (£18 per month). For claims over £4 per week you’ll need to provide evidence of what you’ve spent. Claims up to £2,500   You must claim using a Self Assessment tax return if you already fill one in. If you don’t already fill in a Self Assessment tax return, and your allowable expenses are under £2,500 for the tax year, fill in form P87 and send it to the address on the form. If you’ve made a successful claim in a previous tax year and your expenses are less than £1,000 (or £2,500 for professional fees and subscriptions), you may be able to make your claim by phone. Claims over £2,500   You must claim using a Self Assessment tax return.
"GNUCash won't show 'Credit Card' type accounts in ""Process Payment"", as of v.2.6.1. A workaround is to create another  account of type A/Payable. Then, transfer the operations you want to pay via ""Process Payment"" to this new account. It should be visible now. A drawback is that you have split your current Credit Card debt, which makes it harder to track. Alternatively you may wish to only use this new account for all your credit card related expenses. Another alternative is processing payments for these purchases manually to keep the 'credit card' accounts consistent."
"First of all, you need to stop using the card completely. Yes, that means you lose out on cash back, double miles, whatever, but that's how you got to this mess in the first place.  Switch to a cash budget until you can consistently spend less than you bring home.  Keep better track of your expenses, build an emergency fund, and learn to save for expenses rather than borrow for them until you have your spending under control.  If you can't cut your expenses any more, consider ways to increase your income (more hours at work, part-time jobs, sell stuff, etc.) Assuming that the employer match is 1-to-1 up to 4%, and you're saving an additional 7 percent to get to 15% total, I would definitely lower your contribution down to 4%, get the card paid off, and ONLY bump your contribution back up once you can safely pay off the card each month and know how much you can contribute.   It is not wise to put 15% in retirement if that causes you to spend more than your net take-home pay.  Your ""13%"" in your Roth is not guaranteed by any means, but the interest you pay on your credit card is. I would even be tempted to cut your retirement completely until the debt is paid, but more for motivational reasons that mathematical: I would be more concerned about living within your income at this point than getting a company match.  I believe the benefits of spending wisely will outweigh a temporary loss in matched retirement funds in the long run."
The best approach depends on how much of an emergency fund you have. If you have no emergency fund Calculate how much you need in order to pay your expenses for 1 month and put at least that amount in a savings account.  3-6 months' worth of expenses is better.  Put the remainder towards one credit card. If you have less than 3 months' worth of expenses in your emergency fund Deposit 1 additional month's worth of expenses into your savings account and apply the rest to one card. If you have an emergency fund that you're completely comfortable with Pay $8000 towards one card and $2000 towards the other one.  Paying off one card fully gets rid of a bill that you have to think about each month, even if the two cards are otherwise identical.
The $3K includes property tax, right? It looks like the mortgage alone will be about $2150 or so. If your (cal) state tax is enough to put you into itemized deductions, your mortgage and property tax are a write off, and the $3k will actually be closer to the $2K you are considering for rent.  The wild card as I see it is that your budget is so tight that any unforeseen expenses will be charged. As a long time homeowner, I know these expenses sometime appear to be high, and regular, despite their random nature. The money earmarked for credit card payments will go a long way to cover the tight budget you seem to have. This and your decreasing support makes this look tight but not impossible. The condition of the house would make or break the deal, in my opinion.
I don't see why it would be any harder to sell stocks or bonds than it is to sell a CD you may have.  Not to mention for large one time expenditures you can usually cover these with a credit card.  This gives you about a month to move money around to pay your credit card off in a timely manner without incurring a charge. I have had no problem getting a credit limit beyond 4-5 months of expenses for myself on a single card. I can't even think of a household emergency that you can't pay for with a credit card. Job loss situations are not going to require large amounts of money immediately. True catastrophic emergencies (natural disasters, ransoms) however will need fast cash potentially. However in this case the only thing that is good is having cash on hand. As you can't count on ATMs or Bank systems to be functional. Even more serious emergencies such as zombies, the end of world, or anything that involves total economic collapse would require things that are not cash. You would need to invest in things like supplies, shelter, guns and maybe shiny metals that may have value.
Of course, as a 'good' person (or maybe a 'stupid' person), I should call them, (wait 30 minutes in the queue), and then try to explain the issue to the service desk. I actually did that, and the guy thought I am nuts to even call, and told me to 'just use them they are yours now'. I don't feel like calling again and again until I get someone that believes it, just to return them their points. Calling generally does not solve this problem. You would need to write a letter using certified mail and send some reminders. Hopefully they should notice it, if not you at least have evidence that you have communicated. I could just toss the card and forget about it. However, I had quite some points on it that really belong to me, so that feels like I pay for their fault. There is no need. You can continue to use the card as usual. Use them and play stupid. This is not a good idea. They are clearly not yours. Somewhere in Terms and Conditions you will find some fine print about notifying Bank/Financial Institution about the errors. Best course, after intimating informing them via letters, keep using your card as normal and use your points as normal. You would roughly know your points balance.
My answer is a combination of the the one from Aaron and Joe. The IRS used to have a December 31st deadline for when the procedure needed to be done. They extended it a few years ago to cut down on the number of people buying glasses between Christmas and New Years. There is an even later deadline for submitting the paperwork. Check the documents for your plan. Some will have a way for you to specify which plan year to use. They will also specify how they handle ones during this overlap period for expenses automatically submitted by a Doctor or Pharmacy, or when using the special credit card they give you. Ask them how they address splitting it between the old and the new plan year.
The strength of your plan is that you have considered that if you contribute early the the 401K you might not get the match, so you do stretch it out for the entire year..  One benefit to putting money into the HSA early is that it will be available if you need it early in the year if you have a major medical emergency in the first quarter. If you need to pay a $4,000 deductible in January because of Appendicitis you would hate to have to use post tax money to pay the bill. Of course If you have had the HSA for several years then this might not be a problem. If you haven't maxed the Roth IRA for 2013, you could make contributions to the IRA up until April 15 2014 to count for the previous year.  A risk with the HSA is if you leave your employer mid-year. You can keep the money, and use it for medical expenses, but if the new company doesn't have a an HSA/High Deductible plan you might have contributed too much.  The 401K, HSA, and IRA are annual limits. So if you will switch companies you are responsible for not going over the limit.