vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
The limits for 2011 and 2012 are $5000 or $6000 if you are 50 or older. The 2011 income limit is $169K, but that's MAGI, not gross. With a $180K income, your MAGI is likely below $169, but you can only tell by looking at your return. If you are this close, you might have to convert to a non-deducted IRA, or withdraw the money. Else, you can fund the 2011 IRA when you file the return in 2012 to be sure.
"Today sure, but that market is similar to day trading in it's volatility. It's great for individuals to make some money in the short term but it's not a good product to build a company around. Especially since the corporate giants already own the entire marketplace.  And you need to take seriously that they have a 50/50 success/fail rate. Facebook is succeeding, Twitter is failing. That's not an indication of stability.  Anyway you need to understand the technology and the consumer marketplace to really know what you're talking about and I suspect you don't. No offense intended. I've been using the internet since before computers were ""cool"" and I do know what I'm talking about."
Student-owned 529s are assessed at the rate of parental assets, which is an advantage. If the amount you will set aside is less than the cost of one year of college, you can avoid the disadvantage of the untaxed income assessment by just using the entire 529 for the final year of school, since there will be no FAFSA for the following year. It occurs to me that there is one other way you can give to them that you did not mention, and may make you more comfortable in terms of encouraging some positive behavior. Namely, save the money in a self-owned account, then, when they are old enough to get a job that provides a W-2 showing declared, earned income, you can use the savings to fund a Traditional or Roth IRA for them, up to the limit allowed each year, until the money you set aside is exhausted. The Roth is a better long-term savings vehicle, but the Traditional would carry bigger penalties for early withdrawal and would therefore be less tempting to draw on.
"You cannot just read one book and some articles on Technical Analysis and some indicators and expect to be an expert and everything to just start falling into place and give you signals that will tell you when to buy and sell with precision and massive profits all the time. It is like someone reading a book on how to drive a car and then expecting to drive flawlessly the first time they sit in the driver's seat, or someone reading a book on brain surgery and expecting to be able to operate on a live patient the next day. It looks like you are using 3 or 4 indicators to get daily buy and sell signals on a daily chart for an EFT you're looking to hold for decades. So firstly you are using short term indicators for a long term outlook. You need to decide what timeframe you plan to hold your investments for and use chart periods and indicators that suit that timeframe. Secondly, each indicator can be used in a number of ways and the settings you use for each indicator can determine whether you get earlier or later signals. Also, you need to work out which indicators work well together and are complementary, compared to those that don't work well together and give conflicting signals. All this information will come together for you the more you read about and practice the art of Technical Analysis. If your timeframe is very long-term (decades) I would be using mainly a weekly chart, with a longer period MA, the ROC indicator and possibly some trend lines. Keep it simple. The price itself is very important too. You can determine when a trend is starting or has ended purely using the price. The definition of an uptrend is higher highs and higher lows, so on the weekly chart if there is a lower high followed by a lower low - this could be the end of the uptrend. If we get a lower low followed by a lower high - this again could be the end of the uptrend. These could be a good time to start getting cautious and maybe looking to sell. If you are using stop losses (which I recommend) this may be a good time to tighten your stops. Similarly, a downtrend is defined as lower lows and lower highs.
Saving for college you have a couple of options.  529 plans are probably the best bet for most people wanting to save for their kids college education. You can put a lot of money away ~$300k and you may get a state tax deduction. The downside is if you're kid doesn't go to college you may end up eating the 10% penalty. State specific prepaid tuition plans. The upside is you know roughly the return you are going to get on your money. The downside is your kid has to go to a state school in the state you prepaid or there are likely withdrawal penalties. For the most part these really aren't that great of a deal any more.  ESAs are also an option but they only allow you to contribute $2k/year, but you have more investment options than with the 529 plans. Traditional and ROTH IRA accounts can also be used to pay for higher education. I wouldn't recommend this route in general but if you maxed out your 401k and weren't using your IRA contribution limits you could put extra money here and get more or really different flexibility than you can with a 529 account. I doubt IRA's will ever be asked for on a FAFSA which might be helpful. Another option is to save the money in a regular brokerage account. You would have more flexibility, but lower returns after taxes. One advantage to this route is if you think your kid might be borderline for financial aid a year or two before he starts college you could move this money into another investment that doesn't matter for financial aid purposes. A few words of caution, make sure you save for retirement before saving for your kids college. He can always get loans to pay for school but no one is going to give you a loan to pay for your retirement. Also be cautious with the amount of money you give your adult child, studies have shown that the more money that parents give their adult children the less successful they are compared to their peers.
I think one of their problems is that so many things have reached such a high level there's no motivation to pay a premium for Sony anymore. Unless you have two TVs side by side I can't tell the difference. The cheap one will look really good to me, and if a higher end Sony was beside it, it would look even better. I won't buy an MP3 player for the sound or build quality, they're all good enough for me. I have an iPod touch and using it as an MP3 player was very low on the priority list.
Your question boils down to saving for a house or saving for retirement. Why not do both? If you invest in a Roth 401k or Roth IRA you can withdraw any contributions that are at least 5 years old without penalty (assuming you're willing to put off purchasing a little longer than your original 2-3 years). If you qualify as a first time home buyer (i.e. you haven't owned a home in at least 2 years) you can withdraw investment earnings as well if your distribution is earmarked towards the down payment and is no more than $10000. Although you won't be penalized for using investment earnings for a down payment you will still have to pay taxes on them. So this may be more appealing to someone that has enough contributions to avoid dipping into the investment earnings. The only other downside is that contributions to a Roth investment are not tax deductible like Traditional IRA and 401k contributions are. Instead, they grow tax free and distributions are tax free when you reach retirement age.
I wouldn't recommend trying to chase a good return on this money.  I'd just put it into a savings account of some sort.  If you can get a better interest rate with an online account, then feel free to do that.  I'd recommend using this money to pay for as much of college out of pocket as you can.  The more student loans you can avoid, the better. As @John Bensin said, trying to make money in the stock market in such a short time is too risky.  For this money, you want to preserve the principal to pay for school, or to pay down your loans when you get out. If you find you have more money than you need to finish paying for school, then I'd suggest setting some aside for an emergency fund, setting aside enough to pay your loans off when you're out of school, saving for future purchases (house, car, etc), and then start investing (maybe for retirement in a Roth IRA or something like that).
Of course they make money. They double dip in a lot of instances they make 2 - 3% plus $0.30 per transaction from the merchant and then whatever interest you pay on your card. So let's just say in one day you make stops at Starbucks for a $4 Latte, then at Wendy's for lunch for about $8, then you put about $20 worth of gas in your tank, then you stop at Kroger for some $40 groceries and may you pick up some dinner for about $15.  That's 5 transactions at $0.30 which is a $1.50 then at 3%  starbucks is $0.12, Wendy's $0.24, gas is $0.60 then kroger $1.20 then dinner $0.45 so the total that they get is $4.11 multiply this by about  a million people per day that is about $4.1 million per day that they get. That is a nice penny! just from the merchant so you are making them a lot of money by just using it.
Maybe a bit under the radar for the average/amateur investor, but I love 'em. Started trading them in college.. I love the variety of strategies one can employ, and risk management is easier (to me) than going long or short the underlying in many cases.  Pick up Hull's text on Futures, Options and Derivatives for your starter reading, then pick an economic sector that makes the most sense to you and learn it. For me, it was ag crops - corn, wheat and soybeans. Keep learning the mechanics of trading this asset class and paper trade for as long as you can.
Sign up for alerts.  Everytime you use your card, you'll get an alert.  That way if there is an unauthorized transaction, you'll know right away. The alerts can also tell you what amount was charged - since this happens right away, the last last cc transaction is fresh in your memory and any overcharges can be easily detected. Has saved me more times than I can remember!
"I cannot speak for Paypal specifically and I doubt anyone who doesn't actually work on their internal automated payment systems could. However, I can speak from experiencing in working on automated forex transaction systems and tell you what many institutions do and it is often NOT based on live rates. There is no law stating an institution must honor a specific market exchange rate. Institutions can determine their own rates how and when they want to. However, there is some useful information on their website: https://www.paypal.com/an/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=p/sell/mc/mc_convert-outside ""The most readily available information on currency exchange rates is based on interbank exchange rates. Interbank exchange rates are established in the course of currency trading among a global network of over 1,000 banks, and are not available through consumer or retail channels."" This leads me to believe they pull exchange rates from either Oanda or XE periodically and then use these rates throughout the day to conduct business. Paypal does not disclose who they use to determine rates. And it's highly doubtful they do this for every transaction (using live rates). Even if they did, there would be no way for you to check and be certain of a particular exchange rate as paypal states: "" Consumers may use these rates as a reference, but should not expect to use interbank rates in transactions that involve currency conversion. To obtain actual retail rates, contact your local financial institution or currency exchange, or check the rate displayed in your PayPal transaction."" This is partly because rates can change by the second just like stock prices or anything else which is susceptible to the open market's variables of supply, demand news events etc. So, even if you check the rates on Oanda (which you can do here: http://www.oanda.com/currency/converter/) you are not going to get a 100% accurate representation of what you would get by doing an exchange immediately afterwards from Paypal or any other financial institution. However, if you want to estimate, using Oanda's currency converter will likely get you close in most scenarios. That is assuming Paypal doesn't charge a premium for the exchange, which they may.
You can't tell who you are buying from, and the seller can only tell if his decision to sell was good with the benefit of a good few years of hindsight. I bought shares hand over fist immediately after the Brexit vote. I was putting my money where my vote went, and I've now made a decent profit. I don't feel that I harmed the people who sold out in expectation of the UK economy cratering. They got the peace of mind of cash (which they might then reinvest in Euro stocks or gold or whatever). Time will tell whether my selling out of these purchases more recently was a good decision (short term, not my best, but a profit is a profit ...) I never trade using borrowed money and I'm not sure whether city institutions should be allowed to do so (or more reasonably, to what extent this should be allowed). In a certain size and shortness of holding time, they cease to contribute to an orderly market and become a destabilizing force. This showed up in the financial crisis when certain banks were ""too big to fail"" and had to be bailed out at the taxpayer's expense. ""Heads we win, tails you lose"", rather than trading with us small guys as equals! Likewise it's hard to see any justification for high-frequency trading, where stocks are held for mere milliseconds, and the speed of light between the trader's and the market's computers is significant."
Nathan's answer was a +1 from me. The answer is not always simple. Having the money available is surely the first step. Using Pete's process aligns with this.  Another thought is depending where you are in your finances, delay by a day for every $100 in cost. e.g. For a $1000 purchase, sleep on it for 10 days. Adjust the number for your circumstance.
"Well there are a few comments that need to be made here I suppose. Though at work now so this will be short.   First there is the difference between banking, which indeed mostly looks at capital adequacy ratios and uses VaR as one of the methods to get to the risk-weighted assets. Then there is the buy side which is more interested in ""how much would I stand to lose in portfolio X if markets head south, and how does that relate to what a have promised my client?"" In the first situation it is the bank itself taking on the risk, in the second the risk lies entirely with the client. An asset manager could lose 100% on your regular old equity mandate and it wouldn't hit him except for loss in fees, whereas a significant trading loss for a bank can put it out of business..   My personal view is that all of these metrics are merely useful instruments and for a large part they all tell me the same thing. A higher duration on a fixed income mandate will give a higher VaR, a higher shortfall, more negative results on rates stress scenarios etcetera. They only really become useful when imposing limits on them, or using them to steer based on whatever the prevailing risk appetite is at a certain point in time. Or when looking at trends, or relative risk of portfolio A vs B  Don't get me wrong, I too can debate for hours about VaR parameters. Confidence intervals, look back periods, return frequency, decay factors, parametric or historical / monte carlo simulation, etcetera. But I think in practise that is really of limited use. If you take any ex ante risk measure and you thoroughly understand it, make an informed choice about risk appetite and steer on it, you basically have done your job as a risk manager.  Sorry I know I am not answering your questions in a structured way but am on my phone so it's hard to keep overview. PM me if you want to discuss things in detail."
"Wot.com or Web of Trust is a website where people add reviews/complaints of websites for things such as child safety, hate propaganda, fraudulent claims, phishing scams, etc.  Anyone can post a review, there's no standard or criteria for reviewers.   Using WOT to prove a websites information is accurate would be like using a Yelp review as a source in an academic journal or in court.   &gt; what would constitute ""scientific methodology"" regarding political analysis?  When researching for media bias, you'll need:   A. Clearly defined terms  B. Objective criteria for doing measurements  C. Accounting for error/bias on the part of researchers  D. Having experts in relevant fields peer-review and publicly scrutinize your research   This isnt just about science, these are the foundations of any attempts at determining truthhood.   You're trying to tell me what websites are biased and which are legit, you don't even understand how to go about determining what bias or truth is without basing it on someone else's unevidenced opinion.   I understand that we might be able to intuitively recognize bias on the part of overtly right-wing (Brietbart) or left-wing (CNN) news sources, but websites like this can't call themselves fact-checkers when its based entirely on their own intuitive opinions.    Sourcing blog posts and unsourced websites is the level of research you'd expect from a conspiracy theorist."
"Probably people like me who thought they'd turned it all off.   For the iphone:   Settings -- Privacy -- Location Services -- System Services   There you'll see a bunch of system services you probably don't need but (if my phone is any indication) are used pretty regularly to get location data on you. Some may be okay with you, but worth checking out.     A few things I looked up:   **Cell Network Search** - it's monitoring for Apple's benefit, having this on doesn't do anything for you; turning it off won't affect using your phone   **Compass Calibration** - your maps will work fine without this, and you can still calibrate the compass while using it; having it on just lets them ... check location to calibrate a compass you're not using?   **Motion Calibration &amp; Distance** - for fitness stuff like tracking steps   **Setting Time Zone** - if you don't travel between time zones often, you probably don't need Apple checking your location every day to constantly ""set time zone"""
So for example, a $5000 pre-tax amount with 25% taxes is equivalent to $5000 * 0.75 = $3750, so you would put in $5000 for Traditional IRA contribution vs. $3750 for Roth IRA contribution. Note that if you have the same flat tax rate at contribution and at withdrawal, (pre-tax) Traditional IRA and Roth IRA are exactly the same, and you can see this by putting in 25% for the ""Retirement tax rate"" in the Traditional IRA calculator (we already assumed 25% tax rate for Roth IRA when calculating the contribution). You will see that Traditional IRA would be better in a lower retirement tax rate (e.g. 15%), whereas Roth IRA would be higher in a higher retirement tax rate."
Given your clarification that you re only intending to use cryptocurrency as a capital asset & a long term investment vehicle, and not as a business day trading or trading for others, I would say this definitely is NOT illegal. The tax man says cryptocurrency is property. The IRS made this clear in Notice 2014-21.  As long as you report it every time you do transfer it and an income loss/gain is triggered, I see nothing wrong here.
The best thing you can do is shop around, and tell your current company that you're shopping.   I had been with GEICO for years and recently discovered (while shopping for renter's insurance) that AllState offered the same coverage for a few hundred dollars less.  When I called GEICO to cancel, they offered me an additional discount (for being a member of a credit union) that I hadn't received before.  I still switched, but was sad that I hadn't been getting that extra discount just because I never asked if there were other discounts I might qualify for. This article by ChristianPF talks about some changes you can make to reduce auto insurance costs.
What bogus, what it does in years to come doesn't disqualify changes in the years gone by.   Have been problematic for generations? Real income hasn't grown since 1968 in the US, with inflation in prices of goods and assets far outpacing it. Things are absolutely different between generations.   My job supports me just fine housing included, maybe that allows an objective look at things for people other than myself, whereas ironically you choose to be a morally superior cunt about it. What benefit to society does that have?   Have a link to your data? Although I can tell by your post you care more about being a dick about this.
"First off, high five on the paycheck.  There are a few retirement issues to deal with. 401k issues - At that income level, you will probably fall into the ""Highly Compensated Employee"" category, which means things get a little more complicated, both for you and your employer.  (Wikipedia link) IRA issues - As you already realized, you make too much to directly open and contribute to a Roth IRA.  You can open a Traditional IRA, however.  Your income is already over the limit for Traditional IRA deduction (bummer), so it would seem there is little point to opening an IRA at all. However, there is a way to take advantage of a Roth IRA, even at your income level.  It is possible to convert a Traditional IRA into a Roth IRA.  There used to be income limits on the ability to do the conversion, which would have normally made this off limits to you.  Starting in 2010, the income limit is removed, so you can do this. Basically, you open a Traditional IRA, max it out, then convert it to a Roth.  Since there was no income deduction, you shouldn't have to pay any more taxes.  (link) Disclaimer: I've never tried this, nor do I know anyone who has, so you might want to research it a bit more before you try it yourself."
Because you are new to forex trading, you would be wise to trade long-term and not short-term. For example, watch the Daily and Weekly charts for trends, not the 15 Minute and 1 Hour.  Doing this, there is little concern for the best time of day. You will ideally have trades setup many days in advance, just waiting for them to be triggered. It doesn't really matter if you're present or not.
"The one thing that should never be automated is PR outreach.  I can usually tell when someone is using an automatic spamming platform to send press releases, because they go in the bin marked ""why the fuck did you send that irrelevant shit to me?"".  Good PR is about relationships, not databases."
&gt;The scariest part of this single program was that its millions of quotes accounted for 10 percent of the bandwidth that is allowed for trading on any given day, according to Nanex.  Am I jumping to conclusions? if this was done at a scale ten times larger wouldn't that stop everyone trading for that day? How do you locate who's doing it? Can we stop it or just hope they don't power trip? Wouldn't it be obvious who made money off it if they do decide to use it for that reason?   Lots of questions because I'm a noob.
"ConfirmedCynic, I also appreciate your opinion on this.    You're right, families need to be more tight with each other and support more. There are plenty of families living together just to make ends meet. And it really sucks that college grads have to go live at home because they can't get a job with their degree or making shit for money.   I don't know what you mean by ""serf"" (sorry for the ignorance) but I get the point.  Anyone can build up a cash fund of some sort even if you make little money.  It's all about priorities and willingness to work your ass off for what you want.    Like I told the person above who commented, if you'd like to connect on social media and learn more about this topic, let me know and I'll give you my details.  Have an awesome day!   William"