vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
There's the fear that one might forget the debit is coming and still bounce the payment.  Personally, I agree with Dheer's list, I don't want to give someone unlimited access to my account. I make good use of electronic payments where I initiate the payment.  For the credit card I use regularly, I have a $250 monthly payment set to go automatically. If I forget to make a payment or lose the bill, at least the minimum is covered. The monthly charges are enough that when I actually pay the bill in full upon receipt, it just goes in toward current charges.  Bills like gas/electric/phone are different every month, so an auto-debit is actually more trouble than how I handle.
Congratulations on the new arrival! Technically, a gift by check to the baby should be deposited into a newly established custodial account in the baby's name. To open one, you will need to have a SSN for the baby, so don't wait till tax time to request one (you will need the SSN if you wish to claim the baby as a dependent on your 2017 income tax returns). On the other hand, people are often cavalier about this and at least one bank (JoeTaxpayer's!) seems not to care about the legal niceties; I expect my bank wouldn't have either, in the good old days. Note that @JoeTaxpayer and I are of similar age, and perhaps he too is recounting experiences from some time ago.
I'd roll them all into one account, just for your own convenience.  It's a pain to keep track of lots of different accounts, esp. since you need logins/passwords, etc for all of them, and we all have plenty of those.  :) Pick a place like Vanguard or Fidelity (for example), where you can find investment options with lower fees, and do the standard rollover.  Once all the accounts are rolled into one, you can think about how to invest the stuff.  (Some good investments require larger minimums, so if you have several old 401ks, putting them together will give you more options.) Rolling them over is not hard, if you have paperwork from each of the 401ks.  You might be able to DIY online, but I found it helpful to call and talk to a person when I did this.  You just need account numbers, etc.  If you are moving brokerage accounts, you may need to provide paper documents/applications, which might require getting them notarized (I found a notary at my bank, even though the accounts I was moving from and to weren't at my bank), which means you'll need to provide IDs, etc. and get a special crimped seal after the notary witnesses your signature.
I've been tucking away $300-400/mo in the bank every month since then because I just got into the habit. Good thing I did too. In the past 10 years I've had to bury both of my parents, one sister and two wives and I'll tell ya, one thing that was comforting was the fact that I had the money. The little truck I bought 20 years ago is now my son's. It has around 260,000 miles on it now. When he trades it in for a newer vehicle, I will probably loan him the money and have him make payments to me rather than the bank. I, too, am not one to pay interest if I can help it. If he defaults, he's my son. I just won't buy him another vehicle! Or maybe he'll get into the same habit of saving money the same way I did. Like JohnFx said, money loaned to family should be regarded as a gift, otherwise you'll end up losing your money AND your family member! Hope some of this helps you make your decision."
I've been in the UK for 3.5 years, and I have the same problem: I can't get even a small loan from my bank; no one will give me a phone contract; it's a nightmare. I have 8 direct debits, I pay everything on time and I earn decent money, but still my credit is seen as no good. I have got a few ideas for you though: Good luck!
I'm working on some banking-related research, and have run into a problem: financial data switches between using RSSDIDs and FDIC certs to identify individual banks. I'm looking for an efficient way to convert between ID types or include both, as I am merging large financial data sets that each use different ID types. I have found [this](https://www.ffiec.gov/nicpubweb/nicweb/searchform.aspx), which allows for conversion one-by-one. However, I'm working with a very large set of bank data, and would really appreciate a more efficient way to do this. Does anyone know of a data set that matches certs to RSSDIDs?  edit: just in case someone else needs it, the call report bulk downloads on the ffiec site have both the CERTs and RSSDIDs, so you can use those.
If it were me, I'd pour my entire savings into paying down the mortgage. I'd also get a HELOC and a personal LOC to use as my emergency fund if I didn't have one already. I personally don't like paying interest on loans when I have cash in the bank to cover it.
Is it true that my father and I get better exchange rate if he uses citibank than his local bank and my local bank? No. The rates vary from Bank to Bank and some days some bank may give a better rate and there is no Golden rule that One Bank will always give better rate. For the amount specified, your father needs to walk into his Bank, preferably the branch that deals with Forex or the Main Branch in the city. A better rate would be given. So any leading Bank like HDFC, ICICI, SBI, SBH, Axis will be similar. Please note a CA certificate is required to make such remittance outside of India.  having my father send me money in USD in India and I get USD here. In that case, my father would have to pay exchange fees Yes this is the only option. You have to convert INR to USD in India. having my father send me money in INR in India and I exchange INR to USD in the US. In this case, exchange fees would be on me INR cannot be sent to US electronically. It will automatically get converted to USD. There is no bank in US that holds an INR account for you to convert amount into USD.
This sounds more like a behavioral than a debit card issue to me TBH. Did you put the money you're putting away into a separate savings account that you (mentally) labelled 'for investment'? That's pretty much what I do (and I have a couple of savings accounts for exactly that reason) and even though I know I've got $x in the savings accounts, the debit card I carry only lets me spend money from my main bank account. By the time I've transferred the money, the urge to spend has usually gone away, even though it often only takes seconds to make the transfer.
Lol i work at a major prop shop and it is far from retail trading. Existing relations are important and if used well will result in an increased pnl.  Also, this is why i was referring to risk adjusted pnl to take into account different firms strategies.  Honestly your company might have a different way of doing things but at every prop shop and bank ive worked for my pnl was their primary focus.  Edit: i also wouldnt take such a condescending tone if i were you. You are far from the only person on reddit working in the industry.
Canadians can email or text each other money through Interac. It is fast - the longest it's ever taken for me is 20 minutes, often it's less - and secure. You don't need to know each other's banking details or even real names. I've used this to send money to my children, each of whom uses a different bank than I do, and they've used it to send money to friends to pay for concert tickets and the like. You add a security question so if someone else got to the email or text first, they wouldn't get the money. I also get an email once the transfer has gone through, so I know they got it. Some banks limit this to $1000 a day, mine to $3000. Typically there is no fee for the recipient and $1 or $2 for the sender. A dollar on $1000 is way better than a 2 or 3% cc processing fee. But even for $30, a dollar is like 3% and you didn't need to apply for anything or set anything up, and your customers don't need a credit card or to trust you with their credit card details. I keep meeting people who don't know about this. Everyone with a Canadian bank account and an email address or smartphone should know about it.
"You don't have to hire a tax consultant, there is a number of companies who sell software (installable or web-based) that helps you do it by asking for all relevant data interview-style. These typically cost between 15 and 25 EUR. I'm not sure whether any of them are available in English, but if you can read German well, you should be OK. taxback.com is in English, but to be honest it looks a bit dodgy to me. Now for your questions: are there some tricky fields (lines) that after filling in my taxes will be counted higher? This is rare, at least for employees you nearly always get something back. are there some tricky fields (lines) that after filling in my taxes could be counted lower? Not in general. Marriage is mentioned below, and otherwise it's all about individual deductibles. Ah, one important factor: if you have investment income and have not filed a Freistellungsauftrag with your bank, you can get some of the taxes by filling out the ""Anlage KAP"" form with data you got in the Jahressteuerbescheinigung from your bank. are there some flat-rates (Pauschals) that I could get advantage from? Absolutely. As an employee, the biggest factor is the Werbungskostenpauschale of (I think currently) 1000 EUR for general work-related expenses, which will be accepted without proof. If your expenses are higher than that and you file individual expenses, there are flat rates for work-related moving and for commuting distance. is it better to give a tax return together with my wife (who was only a girlfriend in 2013 living with me in one household) or to give it separately? It's not possible to do a joint tax filing for the time before your marriage. What you should consider is to apply for a different tax class from now on, if one of you earns significantly more than the other. when separately, do I have to fill her information in my tax return or can I just pretend there is nobody else in my apartment?
In addition to the money-laundering, lifestyle, income tax, etc  issues discussed already in other answers, one other matter that  might concern the bank is whether that cash you are bringing in  to deposit is genuine currency or (some or all of) the bills  are counterfeit and you are using this mechanism to get them into  circulation.  Even if you withdraw a very large amount in cash from your bank, step out the door and come back just a few minutes later saying that you have changed your mind and want to put that money back into your account, there is still the question  as to whether the cash you have brought back is exactly the same as you took out or a substitution was made in the interim. I once needed a bank draft for $1000 and went to my bank to get it, taking with me a check made out to Cash for $1003 (the bank's fee was $3). The bank would not give me a bank draft in exchange for the check, or if I cashed the check right then and there and paid for the bank draft using the cash that the teller had just handed me. I had to tear up the check, write another one payable to the bank, and then I got my bank draft. As JoeTaxpayer says, it is a matter of paper trail. Additional matter added in edit: According to Wikipedia, because of the  Bank Secrecy Act of 1970, Many banks will no longer sell negotiable instruments when they are purchased with cash, requiring the purchase to be withdrawn from an account at that institution. which was exactly my experience.  Furthermore, even the banks that will still sell you a cashier's check or money order for cash must keep a Monetary Instrument Log (MIL) that records all such cash transactions for amounts between $3000 and $10,000, keep the records for at least five years, and produce it upon request of a bank examiner or auditor (and presumably upon subpoena by a district attorney or divorce lawyer). Cash transactions of $10,000 or over are, of course, reported to the IRS on Currency Transaction Reports.  In short, a paper trail exists for some time even for cash transactions quite a bit smaller than $10,000.
I have to ask: At what point do people take into account their own financial responsibility when it comes to these fees? Don't get me wrong, I've been in that overdraft fee loop before and it was brutal so I took my business else where... what I didn't realize at the time was that I did exactly what the bank wanted me to do. Either pay up for the bank forwarding money on my behalf, or gtfo.  Banks aren't obligated to do shit with our pennies. By asking them to hold on to our cash, they provide a service including all the attached fine print. Trickery is obviously foul play, but so is constantly over-drawing an account. One or two overdraws should be red flag enough that you're not paying attention to your money. But this isn't the case for our culture. We get penalized then act like victims.
"Yesterday I have received a call from my local bank. They told the the payment had arrived, but the money sender failed to specify my account number. They have only specified SWIFT code and my address. And in order to receive my money, money sender has to send an additional SWIFT message, where my account number must be specified. And the money transfer will remain ""frozen"" (or ""blocked"") until such a message would be received. In this case normally your local bank has to send a SWIFT MT199 to the sending Bank that the account number quoted is missing. The Sending Bank would contact the company and send back a SWIFT message with required info."
I have only been comfortable using my credit unions online bill payment system where the service they use already has the target in the database. When I enter the name of the company and the zip code from the bill, the system responds with the address that matches what is on the bill. In most cases the money is not sent via mail, but it is sent electronically. This eliminates the case of somebody finding the check. Though electronic delivery doesn't guarantee that I didn't type the wrong account number. When adding a new target, I like to pick those that also have an online system that I can check in a few days to make sure the money was received and properly credited. Recently a company failed to credit my account in a timely manner, my credit union actually noticed that the payment hadn't been cashed, and alerted me. I asked the credit union about mistakes, either by me or by them. They claimed that the payment is treated like any other check, and that if there was a problem the money could be pulled back, and my account credited with the funds. Your bank should have a disclosure document stating the risks and protections with the service.
"Can you get a cashier's check from your bank, made out in the charity's name, and mail it to the charity? From what I recall of the last few times I've gotten a cashier's check from the bank, it didn't have anything on it that identified me. A determined person could probably trace it back to you, but you're not really looking for strong anonymity. Another possibility would be a postal money order, but I'm not sure whether you can leave the ""From"" section blank. The money order would have a fee, but the cashier's check should be free. (It is at both my local bank and my CU.)"
Can you afford to replace it? What does that mean?  Even if insuring means overpaying, it does spread the risk.  NB: This example is not about the Applecare program, which I think is a waste of money for many people. Others have explained very well if it would work for you or not.  I have a Macbook but no Applecare. I have an expensive smartphone with insurance for dropping and water damage, but not theft. After one year I cancel this insurance. I don't have $200K in my bank account.
That having been said, you need to be aware that the current version of YNAB is not a desktop application but a web-based app. YNAB 4, the old desktop version which we have been using, is officially unsupported as of the end of 2016. However, I see that it is still available for sale, if you are interested in it, the YNAB4 help site is still up, and the mobile app you would need to work with it on your phone (called YNAB Classic) is still in the app store. As I said, the current YNAB is now a web app, complete with automatic downloading of transactions from your bank. I have no experience with it (other than playing around with it a little), and so I can't tell you how quick the interface is or how well the auto-downloading of transactions works. As an alternative, another web-based solution is EveryDollar, from Dave Ramsey's company. (I have never tried it.) The advantage of this one is that it is free if you choose not to link it to your banks; the automatic downloading of transactions is a paid feature. I wrote an answer a couple of years ago in which I describe two different approaches that budgeting software packages tend to take. I'm not familiar with Buxfer, so I don't know which approach it takes, but perhaps that answer will help you evaluate all of your software options. On the behavior side of things, besides the relaxing of the cash accounting I mentioned above, we also involve my wife a little less in the budgeting process than we used to. (This is by her choice!) I am the one who enters all the transactions into the software (she hands me all her receipts), I reconcile the accounts at the end of the month, and I set the budget for the next month. We have been doing this long enough now that she knows what the budget is, and we only need to discuss it if we want to do something different with the budget than we have been doing in the past. She has the YNAB app on her phone and can see where we are at with all of our budget categories.
In the United States there are some specific savings accounts, some of which have rules from the federal government (education) and some that are setup by the bank/credit Union. Some institutions have a Christmas club, where money is set aside each week or each month and then you are given access at the end of the time period. Some institutions have accounts that pay CD rates but allow you to add funds during the period. They will have some flexibility in setting the time period. I have seen accounts that are designed to save up for a big purchase, or for a specific time period (summer vacation) Ask your bank. Or better yet look at a variety of banks websites for their rate sheet. That will explain all the different account types, rates, and rules. My credit Union allows a large number of sub accounts so that you don't have to commingle the funds.
If you are just trying to curb impulse spending I'd suggest the following:  1) Set up a separate bank account for your savings - Do not order checks or a debit card for this account. 2) Get your employer to split your paycheck to put the saving amount in the new account (most employers will do this) The trick to avoid impulse spending is to make it a chore to get at the money. With the above arrangement you would have to physically go to the bank, fill out a withdrawal slip and get cash. This way you still can access the money in an emergency, but it forces you to plan things out better.
Out Of The Dark OOTD is a budgeting and personal money management web app that does not require you to give out access to your bank accounts or even your personal identity.  It's a great tool for people with no financial experience with features like Cash Put-Aside and the Credit Card Debt Terminator and it has tons of instant guides explaining how to use every feature.  You can check it out at myootd.org.
I'd be very surprised (but feel free to prove me wrong) if he advised people to pay in physical cash. He probably means to not take out debt.  In the world of M&amp;A, the term cash is used a bit differently. You can fund a deal with cash, stock, or a combination of both. However, there are different sources of cash. You can have funds in your bank account, or you can go borrow funds in the debt market.  So what this means for this deal is that AMZN shareholders will not be giving up any equity for the acquisition. They will either use cash that is in their bank accounts or go to the debt markets, raise debt, and use the proceeds to pay WFM shareholders.  No one shows up with physical cash in either case. It's wired over to the people who will then distribute the money to the shareholders.
How are these zoning laws enforced and drawn up? Who ensures they are properly followed? Who handles penalties when they are not followed?   Who handles disputes when right-of-way issues come up?  How is all this done while still maintaining the rights of those who actually live on the land and may not have massive bank accounts?  How are all these people, doing things that actively get in the way of a business doing what it wants and is ultimately seen by those that just want to build something as a feckless bureaucracy, get paid?
In my experience, there are two types of redditors.  Reddit is mostly those who just vote &amp; move on - they vote up the sensational headlines, the memes, the images, etc.    Then reddit has those who comment in non-default subs - they're the ones in the comment sections of those posts complaining about what a crappy post it is.    The first group seems to have a big = bad business mentality, the other group seems more nuanced.
In addition to the difference pointed out by Dheer (see also this Wikipedia link), another meaning is that Private Bankers are those people on the bank staff who deal with personal accounts and people who wish to deposit money in the bank, while the people who use the deposits to loan money to businesses, underwrite bond issues etc are called Investment Bankers or sometimes Merchant Bankers since these staff members deal primarily with merchants, or invest the bank's deposits in various ways.
"&gt; So I asked this question in /r/DebateaCommunist and got some interesting answers, mostly about how banks exist to make money out of nowhere and to fool people. What do yall have to say?  That isn't what they said. Nobody mentioned fooling people from what I can see from a cursory glance. And if they did, they're being facetious.  Also, they didn't mean ""make money from thin air"" in the sense of it being a magical trick. They make money from a sort of market inefficiency: they broker between people who want to invest money and those who want to borrow it.  The top two answers are about right: a bank borrows money from investors (who deposit money in checking and savings accounts), and lends it to borrowers in the form of loans or mortgages. The difference between the interest rates is their profit.  You deposit $1000 with me at 2% for 20 years. I give you $1485.95 at the end of that term. Where did I get the extra five hundred books? Well I lent it out in mortgages over the same terms at 6% and received $3207.14 over the same period of time. Your $1000 made you $485.95, and made me $1721.19 which I keep for the purposes of providing you with ATMs, dealing with bad debts and staffing the place. Simple, eh?  Of course, they also provide other services in addition to this, and the way in which they do it is regulated, but that's all a bank is at its core.  A central bank is slightly different: they issue money (i.e. ""print"" it), and supply it at a headline interest rate to the commercial banks. And of course banks borrow amongst themselves. But then we get ourselves down the rabbit hole of ""grown up"" economics and LIBOR and the like... there are whole textbooks used to explain exactly how that mechanism works and what's going on there.  But if you want to get rich, find a way to start a bank. Seriously. Doing it to the old school way is seriously profitable if you can be trusted."
this is a bullshit post because of the politics involved. who gives a damn what who he votes for?  They belie the fact that the president is robbing the country blind and not paying their debts, along with the other ministers (her cronies).  Experience: I worked with the Argentine government for two years. $10,000 for a meeting! Argentina is an amazing country being crippled by this ex-call girl and her dead husbands friends