vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Staying in Idaho, you could pursue some additional degree and try to get a job with a bank in the area as an investment advisor of some sort. However, I have doubts as to whether or not you'd be able to employ your creativity and test your own instincts in that sort of a position. If you really want to get into the big-money investment sector, I'd suggest a move to a financial hub (Chicago, New York, San Francisco) and getting a job programming for a big firm. After obtaining some experience there, you may be able to transfer to a more investment-oriented position (at the same firm or another) and from there to a position where you can unleash your talent (assuming you have some). Putting a degree in finance somewhere in the mix would help too. Consider the following. You want to make $50,000/yr (low) by running a fund with a 1% expense ratio (high) investing other peoples' money... you're dealing with at least $5 million. That's a good chunk of change. To be entrusted with that kind of money is kind of a big deal, and you'll need to get some people to believe in your capabilities. You're not likely to get that kind of trust working out of Boise. Even if you're just doing research for some fund manager, you're not likely to find too many of those in Boise either.
It will be similar to what you have said -- the options price will adjust accordingly following a stock split - Here's a good reference on different scenarios - Splits, Mergers, Spinoffs & Bankruptcies also if you have time to read Characteristics & Risks of Standardized Options
This isn't an impressive headline, nor does it show amazing investment foresight, because they were a non-entity. Investing in them back then would have consisted of picking one of hundreds of companies with a good idea and the hope of someday becoming profitable, but risky as hell. A WSB.  A better headline for Netflix, and one that actually teaches a lesson on how to properly invest would be:  **$1,000 in Netflix 6 years ago worth $16K today.**  Around 2010, I was disappointed in myself for not grabbing NFLX earlier on, but didn't want to buy because I didn't think it had much upside... a little overpriced from what I saw.  Then in 2011, they made the stupid Qwikster announcement. Everyone bitched and moaned, and the stock price plummeted. I said to myself - is anyone actually canceling their subscription over this? Who exactly is the competition, the cable company who's 5-10x the price? Hulu, who have commercials?  How could their profits really suffer from this??  I couldn't see any way where they wouldn't claw it back once the dust settled. I bought 150 shares right away. Classic investment example of not succumbing to market panic and getting a good buy.  (Just wish I hadn't sold half my shares after the stock tripled!)
A guy I used to work with would buy some shares in certain companies on a regular basis.  The guy in question chose Coke, Pepsi, GE, Disney and some other old stable stocks.  He just kept buying a few shared ($50 or so at a time) year after year after year.  He worked his entire life, but by the time he was ready to retire, he had a pretty sizable investment; he was worth a rather tidy sum. The moral of the story is, it is very much worth it to invest a bit at a time.  Don't bother with the idea of buying low and selling high; not right now.  Just go ahead and buy stable stocks (or shares of index funds) and wait them out.  This strategy (mixed with other retirement tactics like a 401K from work, and IRA of your own, Social Security in the US) is a good way to build wealth. Don't spend money you don't have, be ready for a long term investment and I think it makes great sense, regardless of what country you live in.
I am a huge fan of jim Cramer and while you may not get CNBC in Australia you can prolly catch jim cramers podcasts If you have an iPod or iPhone which really will help your financial literacy a bit.  Here's my advice . Set up a IRA or tax advantaged accounts if they exist in Australia (sorry I only know usa markets really well).  Then you can pick investments to go in there or in a different investment account. I am a huge fan of index funds in particular Etf index funds because they are still very liquid. I prefer the free or no commission funds by Charles scwabb but vanguard is also very good or maybe even better. A few great funds are the vanguard total stock market fund (it invests in every company in the world) and any fund that mirrors the s&p 500 or the Russell 2000 midcap.  Another good idea just to make room to save money is make a budget with your wife. I like the other post about planning in reverse . Setting up a budget to see your expenses and then make automatic pay dedications that go into savings or different accounts for savings.
Timeshare and resort packages are a popular option for people who take frequent vacations. But are they a good deal? Many people sign up due to attractive sales pitches but are then disappointed by the actual package. It's a good idea to read reviews from experienced travelers.
"Following these rules will help a poor person have a better chance to climb out of poverty or avoid poverty. Not finishing high school isn't going to help them find a good job. Having children as a teenager isn't going to put a poor person into the middle class. Having children without being married and having a full time job isn't going to solve poverty, but make it worse. You call these rules ""middle class values"" as if it is a bad thing, and speak of them as an imposition. Well, breaking these rules is pretty much a ticket to generational poverty."
&gt;Which one is Citibank  I literally *just* told you retard.   &gt;Those CEO's (including this prick) were responsible for it.   No they werent. CDO's / MBS's are *not* from depository banks. The financial institutions that are responsible for the financial crisis are primarily Lehman Brothers, Bear Stearns and AIG. AKA 2 *investment* banks and an insurance firm. So as I've said, you don't understand the difference between a depository bank and an investment bank.   You also have 0 idea on how a collateral works.   And again, tax payers didn't lose a single cent.   You're brainless.
With Prime Now and same day shipping, I don't need to go to Best Buy unless it was an actual emergency.   Also, a new Best Buy opened up in Mountain View. It is totally empty, and I'm at a loss at who in corporate thought it was a good idea to open another one.
Hedging - You have an investment and are worried that the price might drop in the near future. You don't want to sell as this will realise a capital gain for which you may have to pay capital gains tax. So instead you make an investment in another instrument (sometimes called insurance) to offset falls in your investment.  An example may be that you own shares in XYZ. You feel the price has risen sharply over the last month and is due for a steep fall. So you buy some put option over XYZ. You pay a small premium and if the price of XYZ falls you will lose money on the shares but will make money on the put option, thus limiting your losses. If the price continues to go up you will only lose the premium you paid for the option (very similar to an insurance policy). Diversification - This is when you may have say $100,000 to invest and spread your investments over a portfolio of shares, some units in a property fund and some bonds. So you are spreading your risks and returns over a range of products. The idea is if one stock or one sector goes down, you will not lose a large portion of your investment, as it is unlikely that all the different sectors will all go down at the same time.
"I've been doing a bunch of Googling and reading since I first posed this question on travel.SE and I've found an article on a site called ""thefinancebuff.com"" with a very good comparison of costs as of September 2013: Get the Best Exchange Rate: Bank Wire, Xoom, XE Trade, Western Union, USForex, CurrencyFair by Harry Sit It compares the following methods: Their examples are for sending US$10,000 from the US to Canada and converting to Canadian dollars. CurrencyFair worked out the cheapest."
If you feel comfortable taking an 8% gain on your stocks, then yes, you should sell. It is generally a good idea to know when you want to sell (either a price or %) before you ever actually buy the stocks. That helps from getting emotional and making poor decisions.
Some people (like me) would prefer to walk to work instead of wasting time in a car or on a bus. Especially people who grew up in denser cities with less of a car culture or decent public transportation.   I think it's a good idea to attract a wider range of staff.
Unless you're going to be a quant, you don't need more than basic statistics.  With that said, I think it's very valuable to have a good grasp on at least an introductory statistics course. Just having a basic idea how probabilities interact and the notion of sensitivity, confidence intervals etc. are very valuable for understanding model output.  The world would be a better place if more people had a rudimentary understanding of probability and statistics.
Overall I think it sounds like it's worth it. It's hard to find that high of a rate on a checking account these days.  It looks like you're looking at this bank, and I can see they have a few more requirements that seem a little tedious: If you don't do these things every month, then you lose the great interest rate. If you can think of an easy way to jump through these hoops and not forget, then it's probably worth it. For example, if you routinely eat out for lunch or buy a morning coffee, you can use that card to pay for it. Set yourself a recurring reminder in your calendar or smartphone to remind you to login to the online banking site. Ultimately, since this is an emergency fund, it's a good idea to keep it nice and liquid in a checking account. You're not likely going to find many other options that will give you a better (and safe) return and still keep your funds available for when you need them. In summary, it sounds like a good idea to me so long as you think you can reliably jump through their hoops.
"Social security number should only be needed for things that involve tax withholding or tax payment. Your bank or investment broker, and your employer, need it so they can report your earnings. You need it when filing tax forms. Other than those, nobody should really be asking you for it.  The gym had absolutely no good reason to ask and won't have done anything with the number. I think we can ignore that one. The store cards are a bigger problem. Depending on exactly what was done with the data, you may have been messing up the credit record of whoever legitimately had that number... and if so you might be liable on fraud charges if they or the store figure out what happened and come after you. But that's unrelated to the fact that you have a legitimate SSN now. Basically, you really don't want to open this can of worms. And I hope you're posting from a disposable user ID and not using your real name... (As I noted in a comment, the other choice would be to contact the authorities (I'm not actually sure which bureau/department would be best), say ""I was young, foolish, and confused by America's process... do I need to do anything to correct this?"", and see what happens... but it might be wise to get a lawyer's advice on whether that's a good idea, a bad idea, or simply unnecessary.)"
"There was a ""Joint Select Committee on Deficit Reduction"" that sadly, was dissolved in 2012 when they determined that there work was done. With Trump postulating that a default might be a good idea, it seems like it's needed now more than ever."
I use the following: DealNews.com - A general deals site. SlickDeals.net - A general deals site.  Lots of activity in their forums. CheapAssGamer.com - Great for gaming deals.  They have a price tracker that shows the best prices for a game across multiple stores. Groupon.com - A deal of the day type site. RetailMeNot.com -  A coupon code aggregator. TheFind.com - A shopping search site.  You can filter for free shipping, sales, or coupons. IMShopping.com - A site that lets you submit a description of the item you're looking for.  Actual humans respond with links to the best deals that they could find.  I've had good results.
Assuming what is taking you over budget are not essential costs such as fuel bills, food, mortgage etc. you could do the following. Work out your monthly disposable income after all essential base costs have been sutracted. Then simply keep a book of any additional spending.  It will be very easy to see if you're at risk of overspending. In fact, even when one has no need to budget it's still an excellent idea to keep a book of all your spending. It's surprising how useful it can be. It's a great reference for dues dates, sizes of past bills and provides an excellent cross check of your bank statement. It's not often that you find an error on your bank statement (at least it shouldn't be!), but my books have helped me locate three such errors over the past 25 years, which I'm sure would have gone unnoticed by most people. So my advice is, keep a book of your spending.
Good idea, but you can already imagine how that will turn out: Patents will be used in some pro-forma way, without intention of serious commercial use, to avoid using them.  For trademarks, this already happens. After a merger, companies continue to formally use a brand/trademark of an acquired company that they have effectively terminated, in order to avoid other companies using that trademark (or a very similar one).
Amazon is stuffed full of dumb money.  People who like the company and therefore assume it must be a good investment.  Nothing about an investment makes sense when the PE is 100.  If you buy something like that you must assume 8% moves will happen pretty frequently.
I guess it's a thing called cant keep up with demand and the rest of the money going towards normal bills and shit. I have no idea tbh. Just assumed she was throwing me a bone to help me with my own hopes and dreams and 200k a year sounds pretty good to me
"I'm 39 and have been investing since my very early 20's, and the advice I'd like to go back and give myself is the following: 1) Time is your friend. Compounding interest is a powerful force and is probably the most important factor to how much money you are going to wind up with in the end. Save as much as you possibly can as early as you can. You have to run twice as hard to catch up if you start late, and you will still probably wind up with less in the end for the extra effort. 2) Don't invest 100% of your investment money It always bugged me to let my cash sit idle in an investment account because the niggling notion of inflation eating up my money and I felt I was wasting opportunity cost by not being fully invested in something. However, not having enough investable cash around to buy into the fire-sale dips in the market made me miss out on opportunities. 3) Diversify The dot.com bubble taught me this in a big, hairy painful way. I had this idea that as a technologist I really understood the tech bubble and fearlessly over-invested in Tech stocks. I just knew that I was on top of things as an ""industry insider"" and would know when to jump. Yeah. That didn't work out so well. I lost more than 6 figures, at least on paper. Diversification will attenuate the ups and downs somewhat and make the market a lot less scary in the long run. 4) Mind your expenses It took me years of paying huge full-service broker fees to realize that those clowns don't seem to do any better than anyone else at picking stocks. Even when they do, the transaction costs are a lead weight on your returns. The same holds true for mutual funds/ETFs. Shop for low expense ratios aggressively. It is really hard for a fund manager to consistently beat the indexes especially when you burden the returns with expense ratios that skim an extra 1% or so off the top. The expense ratio/broker fees are among the very few things that you can predict reliably when it comes to investments, take advantage of this knowledge. 5) Have an exit strategy for every investment People are emotional creatures.
"This is a really bad idea. You are asking to be forced to pay for something at a time when you most likely NOT want to buy it. Why? There is no stability (much less any degree of predictability) to give up the right to control when and for how much you would be willing to own the S&P500. Just don't do it.....""generate stable income"" and ""selling puts"" is an oxymoron.  ===retired investment advisor"
Look at morningstar holdings.It will list the top 25 holdings and their current price.This will give you a good idea of the intra-day price of the fund.
"The first thing you should visit a store that has a good selection. If there are only one or two choices, how can you possibly know you've bought the right one? If you want to Soccer ball for kids, then you can visit our online store ""Best Soccer Balls"". We have a wide selection of the best soccer balls. It also helps if the store has knowledgeable salespeople, so it might be a good idea to ask around."
I'm sure the people at *The Weinstein Company* had absolutely no idea, and had never heard rumors, that he used his position to take advantage of women sexually.  /s  Hollywood is a chatty Kathy industry.  There's a 0.00% chance the higher ups at his company didn't know what he did on his casting couch.  So, I'm not sure what good it does for an organization that almost assuredly turned a blind eye has fired the man the turned a blind eye towards.
529 Plans must be sponsored by a state.  There are sometimes several plans sponsored by a state, but the trick is picking the plan with the lowest costs, just like any investment account. Clark Howard has a nice guide and recommendations for picking 529 plans.  If you live in a state on his honor roll, invest in that state plan for extra tax benefits.  If you don't, invest in one of his dean's list plans. You may invest in any plan from any state you like.  You can buy the plan directly without the expense of a broker.  Put the plan in your name and name the student as a beneficiary, do NOT put the plan in the student's name.  This will help out when it comes time to apply for financial aid.
Regarding transferring a residential investment property into your SMSF, no you cannot do it. You cannot transfer residential property into your SMSF from a related party. You can only transfer Business Real Property (that is commercial or industrial property) into a SMSF from a related party. You can buy new residential property inside your SMSF, and you can also borrow within the fund (using a non-recourse loan) to help you buy it, or you could buy it as tenants-in-common with your SMSF (that is you own say 50% in your own name and 50% under the SMSF). Regarding self-managing the investment properties held in your SMSF, yes you can, but you should make sure all your paperwork is in order (all your t's crossed and your i's dotted). You can even charge your SMSF for managing the properties, but this should be at market rates (not more).
By mentioning GLD, I presume therefore you are referring to the SPRD Gold Exchange Traded Fund that is intended to mirror the price of gold without you having to personally hold bullion, or even gold certificates. While how much is a distinctly personal choice, there are seemingly (at least) three camps of people in the investment world. First would be traditional bond/fixed income and equity people.  Gold would play no direct role in their portfolio, other than perhaps holding gold company shares in some other vehicle, but they would not hold much gold directly. Secondly, at the mid-range would be someone like yourself, that believes that is in and of itself a worthy investment and makes it a non-trivial, but not-overriding part of their portfolio.  Your 5-10% range seems to fit in well here. Lastly, and to my taste, over-the-top, are the gold-gold-gold investors, that seem to believe it is the panacea for all market woes.  I always suspect that investment gurus that are pushing this, however, have large positions that they are trying to run up so they can unload. Given all this, I am not aware of any general rule about gold, but anything less than 10% would seem like at least a not over-concentration in the one area.  Once any one holding gets much beyond that, you should really examine why you believe that it should represent such a large part of your holdings. Good Luck
Could be something as innocent as him trying to get your last name to stalk you on Facebook in hopes of asking you out on a date after seeing what you're like, or just creeping on your photos.  Or something as bad as forging documentation, photoshopping his name over yours to show that while he was in the states he got a diploma/degree/etc..  ¯\\_(ツ)_/¯
Learn specifics for other roles (Equity research may require more equity specific stuff, cap markets will be similar to IB as listed above, S&amp;T will be less specific prep and more bainteasers/fast math). Prepare a stock pitch of some sort as well in case they ask you for one, and pick something obscure-ish so that it won't be too closely scrutinized. Stock pitch will come up randomly in interviews and specifically if you apply to equity research. In that same vain of thought, you should also think a bit about what group you want to apply to at these banks. Its good you have an interest in finance and in banking, but there are a lot of facets to the banking industry which you could pursue (traditional investment banking, capital markets, sales and trading, equity research, asset management, to name a few). Some are easier to wedge you way into, others harder (I have them listed in rough order of difficulty from hardest to easiest above). You can usually apply to a couple of different groups at each bank, so take advantage of that and definitely apply to multiple groups, talk to multiple groups, network with multiple groups and try to spread yourself around and get as many interviews as possible. TL;DR: you've got a decent product for sale here, but you'll need to polish up you pitch and learn financial skills to back up the story and prove you're competent and serious to an interviewers. While you do that, reach out to UCLA alumni in the banking industry and the HR recruiters for the banks to get your name in front of people and work toward securing a first round interview. Networking in this way is going to be the most important part of recruitment for you over the next 3-5 months."
Besides the ex-MIL not coming up with the monthly payments, and the ex-wife destroying the car there are other problems.  A lease generally limits you you a specific number of miles over the term of the lease. You may be limited to 1,000 miles a month for a total of 36,000 over the 3 year time of the lease. Your ex-wife could drive all 36K miles in her 24 months. Which means every mile your son drives will be at a penalty rate. Driving 1000 mile a month at 15 cents a mile is $150 a month in penalties, plus the original monthly cost of the lease.  You need to understand if the lease contract will allow this sort of transaction. You will need to name the principal drivers. They will require specific levels of insurance. If you don't name your ex-wife on the policy, and she is in an accident, the damages might not be covered. The leasing company could also pursue you for fraud.
Are you a senior? Do you have any internship experience? Move past alum. It doesn't have to be just them. You don't necessarily need a connection like that to them. Find a name and try to find a deal their group worked on. Or find a deal then figure out who worked on it. Shoot them an email saying you're working on a project and would like to know more about X and deal Y. After a few back and forths then you can ask. Keep it pushing my man. You'll get something. And it doesn't have to be some top firm. Fuck that mentality.