vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"Prop 13's benefit to ""the rich"" is incidental and, frankly, minimal. Check out these maps that I grabbed from a title records. I searched for data on single family homes that were purchased (ergo assessed value is based on) between 1900 and 1980. Arbitrary, but it'll do for our purposes. I'd speculate that if I were to have picked 1970 or earlier the number of homes that are assessed at far below market value is negligible relative to the tax base as a whole. Here's Coronado Island: http://imgur.com/572yTZI The peninsula in Newport Beach: http://imgur.com/dFMcrZ1 The San Francisco Bay Area: http://imgur.com/a/NMZz0 And a zoomed in area of the Bay: http://imgur.com/a/NMZz0 If a parcel is outlined in green, it's assessed based on a purchase date prior to 1980. Outlined in white means after 1980. In my eyes, the big takeaway is that the number of homes which were purchased prior to 1980 is minimal. Even in the Bay Area, where the zoomed out view suggests that there's a lot of those homes, when you zoom in and realize how densely populated the area is, not very many homes are assessed on outdated values. (For example, on the Coronado map, the number of homes purchased pre-1980 was 47. Pre-1990 was 179. The search shows a total of 2,859 single family residences in the map area.) You can argue that it's a dumb tax policy, but as social policy, I don't have an issue with it and I'd still contend it's largely negligible. It's a battle that doesn't matter. A skirmish when compared to 1031 Exchanges, basis step ups, the massive decline in personal income taxes for the upper brackets, etc. Our tax policy as a whole is skewed and becoming more regressive (or, to the GOP, fair) all the time. Not entirely unrelated, but I did some research and played with some numbers about income taxes because it's something that interests me.
You say A #1 priority, that implies multiple #1 priorities. Long term or medium term my goal is to pay off the mortgage. But short term paying off the mortgage isn't a concern. Some people are comfortable with a mortgage during retirement, others aren't. When I was younger the mortgage concern was not being overextended. I didn't want to be in a situation that dictated my financial decisions because I needed to make a big house payment. Being overextended is no longer a concern for me. Now I am looking in more detail about how my retirement will actually play out. How to handle my actual retirement income sources. For me, not having a mortgage simplifies my planning.
After transferring, do we need to file any forms to IRS regarding money transfer?  Not immediately. Do we need to file any forms in US as part of tax returns for this transfer? In case the recipient and the sender are not the same person, the recipient must attach form 3520A to his/her tax return. If you are transferring between your own accounts - you're good to go. However, this NRE account must have been reported on your FBAR and form 8938 attached to your tax return. Do we need to inform my local bank in USA regarding the transfer in advance?  You probably want to confirm the transfer instructions with them (SWIFT instructions, routing info, etc).
You cannot just decide to declare bankruptcy and make the debts go away. Bankruptcy proceedings under chapter 7 include accounting of all of your assets and income, and all of your debts, and dividing all your assets and income (except for amounts left for your own support) between the debtors. So if you can (i.e.: capable) pay the debts off - there's nothing magical in bankruptcy that will make it any better for you. You will still pay the debts off, except that now you will also have the huge (and much heavier) stain of bankruptcy. For chapter 7, the length it stays on the credit report is 10 years, not 7. Under chapter 13, the procedure is less drastic (doesn't include complete liquidation of all of your assets), but the result is equally not as good - you still pay all your debts but they may be reorganized (interest rates change, durations change, some things can still be charged off - but not likely if you actually have the capability to pay). Chapter 13 stays on your credit report for 7 years.
Emergency funds, by the name it implies that they should be available on hand at a very short notice if needed. Conservation of principal (not withstanding inflation, but rather in absolute terms) is also a very important criteria of any kind of account that you will use to save the emergency fund. I would suggest the following breakup. The number in brackets signifies the amount of per month expenses that you can keep in that account. = total 6 months living expenses
It just absolutely isn't. And all FCF is Non-GAAP...  Why would it be? They aren't going to generate serious free cash flow until the growth slows down. That is so far in the future that the uncertainty completely masks any added granularity that you get by modeling out FCF by year.
"Why would you file four K-1s for each partner? You file one K-1 per partner, on which you report the total of income attributed to that partner. It shouldn't and cannot ""vary"". There's no variables here, the income you report is the income already earned and attributed to that partner. What's there to vary? How you decide the attribution of income is governed by your operating agreement, the IRS only needs the bottom line."
I grill potential employees when they add “Level I Candidate” to their resume because such a statement requires little effort and proves nothing.  Many people (correctly) assume that participating in the CFA program shows that they are a more qualified employee candidate.  Therefore, some will simply register for the test, without really committing to the program.  It is easy to weed out the resume padders.  On the other hand, someone that declares they are a Level II or III candidate has proved they can commit to and pass the first test. We still discuss the program during the interview, but most of these people have already dedicated hundreds of hours of their time to the subject and eager to talk about their great accomplishment.  I am not too sure about the number of charter holders that are sought out by regional banks.
Yes. In fact, it's explicitly mentioned in Publication 590-A that you can file before making the contribution, as long as you make the contribution before the deadline. Filing before a contribution is made.    You can file your return claiming a traditional IRA contribution before the contribution is   actually made. Generally, the contribution must be made by the due   date of your return, not including extensions.
To the best of my knowledge, there's no firm date requirement. The fiscal year for the US Federal Government starts on October 01, but if my memory serves me right, last time a budget was approved before the fiscal year started was during the Clinton administration.
According to the government website, the answer appears to be no in terms of personal income. However you may want to anyway to start creating RRSP contribution room as well as possibly qualify for GST/HST credit. If your business is registered you are going to be required to file a tax return for it (and if it is a sole proprietorship then you would be required to file a T1 regardless). When all is said and done, it seems that it's probably better to file rather than not file; even if you pay no income tax at least you are sure you won't receive a nasty letter from Revenue Canada in the future :)
"Haha, right. Maybe the ""who can think of the biggest number"" game?  I think the 125bln is just the tip of it. They have a lot of frightening liabilities on their balance sheet like their real estate market.  I wonder where the Spanish bond yields will go now."
&gt;David Knopf, 29, will assume the role Oct. 1, the company said today (Sept. 8), making him the youngest CFO to lead one of the US’s largest companies. (The next youngest, at 27, is Andrew Power of Digital Realty, according to research from Crist Kolder, an executive search firm.)  this article is shit
Balance sheet engineering.  You might be right, but it might not be a cost of money issue.  It could be a million other things.  You might be trying to line up some future ROI metrics because you know something positive or negative about WFM's near term projections.  There's many reasons to go one way or another, and future effects on investor sentiment, the balance sheet,  various metrics that AMZN has deemed important in past comments/filings, etc.... A lot goes into these decisions.
While you are required to do so as others have said, it's actually in your interest to do so. In a recent article at GlobeInvestor, Tim Cestnick discusses the benefits of filing tax returns for teens. This situation may or may not apply to you but the message is the same. The main benefits are (1) create RRSP contribution room and (2) be eligible for GST/HST credits and other possible one-shot credits (think oil royalty surplus cheques in Alberta). Excerpt: You see, when Lincoln was 14, he filed a tax return and reported $2,000 of income that year. He paid no tax thanks to the basic personal tax credit, but he created $360 of RRSP contribution room that year. Beginning in 2003, Lincoln started working part-time in his father's business. His father agreed to pay him $6,000 each summer to work in the business, to help save money for university. Lincoln didn't pay any tax on the money he earned in those summers because his basic personal tax credit was always higher than his earnings. In addition, Lincoln added to his RRSP contribution room simply by filing a tax return each year.
The last week is the most important. The Q and As are the most important because that is where you will see yourself be challenged. 83 is about where I was, but I also passed because I was busting my butt the week before the test. I know people who got confident and relaxed the last week and ended up failing. Finish strong, that's what I would focus on, not what your score is. Also, take the day off before the test and maybe watch a video or two. The practice tests are a better indicator of your score because they are closer to the actual test, but they aren't as challenging.
He should look into the Voluntary Disclosures Program. He will have to keep up to date with his taxes thereafter, but the outcome will likely be better than if they discover he hasn't been filing before he discloses it.
"Eh. A FICO change is more important than you think.  Underwriting waterfalls almost always include **minimum** FICO scores. This only really becomes important when you get into securitization and the standards (both GSE and Private-Label) required for MBS issuance. Because -- of course -- an underwriter can originate a loan and then hold it it on the books (this is very prevalent in non-conforming Jumbo loans).  That said, if you want to sell the whole loans to a GSE or private label, they have to meet underwriting requirements (Reps &amp; Warranties).   To your original answer: you're right that it probably won't make a difference but not because FICO doesn't matter. Moreso because there are only 9 million potential ""borrowers"" affected and that 9 million most likely doesn't constitute any real demand for mortgages.  This also ignores the possibility that FICO requirements in underwriting standards adjust to FICO 9; but I really doubt that they will."
So whether you are an ""exempt individual"" for one year inductively depends on whether you have been an ""exempt individual"" in previous years. Long story short, if before you came to the U.S. as an F-1 student, you haven't been in the U.S. on F-1 or J-1 status, then you will be a nonresident alien for the first 5 calendar years (calendar year = year with a number, not 365 days) that you've been on F-1. We will assume this is the case below. So if you started your F-1 in 2009 (any time during that year) or before, then you would have already been an exempt individual for 5 calendar years (e.g. if you came in 2009, then 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 are your 5 years), so you would not be an exempt individual for any part of 2014. Since you were present in the U.S. for most of 2014, you meet the Substantial Presence Test for 2014, and you are a resident alien for all of 2014. If, on the other hand, you started your F-1 in 2010 (any time during that year) or after, then you would still be an exempt individual for the part of 2014 that you were on F-1 status (i.e. prior to October 2014. OPT is F-1.). Days in 2014 in H1b status (3 months) are not enough for you to satisfy the Substantial Presence Test for 2014, so you would be a nonresident alien for all of 2014. If you fall into the latter case (nonresident alien), there are some alternative choices you have. If you were in the U.S. for most of those last 3 months, then you are eligible to choose to use the ""First-Year Choice"". I will not go into the steps to use this choice, but the result is that it makes you dual-status for 2014 -- nonresident until October, and resident since October. If you are single, then making this choice pretty much gives you no benefit. However, if you are married, then making this choice allows you to subsequently make another choice to become a resident for all of 2014.
Even going to small claims court the burden would be on you to prove that they never paid you. The 13 year gap would be the core of the argument by the company that they have no obligation to keep records from 13 years ago. That is far longer than they need to keep them for tax purposes.  Even if they sent you a replacement check the next year, that happened to me once, the record of that transaction would have been 12 years ago. The bank will not cash it because of the date being 13 years ago. As we move forward with more and more of the checks being deposited via phone/scanner the banks will be even less likely to handle stale checks because the fact you have the check in your hand doesn't mean it wasn't cashed.
"One can generalize on Traditional vs Roth flavors of accounts, I suggest Roth for 15% money and going pretax to avoid 25% tax. If the student loan is much over 4%, it may make sense to put it right after emergency fund. For emergency fund priority - I'm assuming EF really requires 2 phases, the $2500 broken transmission/root canal bill, and the lose your job, or need a new roof level bills. I'm in favor of doing what let's you sleep well. I'm also quick to point out that if you owe $2500 at 18%, yet have $2500 in your emergency fund, you're really throwing away $450 in interest each year. There's an ongoing debate of ""credit card as emergency fund."" No, I don't claim that your cards should be considered an emergency fund, per se, but I would prioritize knocking off the 18% debt as a high priority. Once that crazy interest debt is gone, fund the ER, and find a balance for savings and the next level ER, the 6-9mo of expenses one. One can choose to fund a Roth IRA, but keep the asset out of retirement calculations. It's simply an emergency account returning tax free interest, and if never used, it eventually is retirement money. A Roth permits withdrawal of deposited funds with no tax or penalty, just tracking it each year. This actually rubs some people the wrong way as it sounds like tapping your retirement account for emergencies. For my purpose, it's a tax free emergency fund. Not retirement, unless and until you are saving so much in the 401(k) you need more tax favored retirement money. I wrote an article some time ago, the Roth Emergency Fund which went into a bit more detail. Last - keep in mind, this is my opinion. I can intelligently argue my case, but at some point, it's up to the individual to do what feels right.
You are correct. If you get married by December 31, you will file as married for this year (Married Filing Jointly or Married Filing Separately) instead of Single. That could indeed save you some amount of taxes, if your situation is as you described. Some people do plan their date of marriage in such a way to optimize tax savings. Whether your marriage date should be set in such a way is your personal decision.
"The other answers have touched on amortization, early payment, computation of interest, etc, which are all very important, but I think there's another way to understand the importance of knowing the P/I breakdown. The question mentions the loan payment as ""cash outflow"". That is true, but from an accounting perspective (disclaimer: I am not an accountant, but I know enough of the basics to be dangerous), the outflow needs to be directed to different accounts. The loan principal appears as a liability on your personal balance sheet, which you could use, for example, in determining net worth. The principal amount in your payment should be applied to reduce the liability account. The interest payment goes into the expense account.  Another way to look at it is that the principal, while it does reduce your cash account, can be thought of as an internal transfer to the liability account, thus reducing the size of the liability. The interest payment cannot. Aside: From this perspective, the value of the home is an asset, and the difference between the asset account and the loan liability account is the equity in the house (as pointed out in different language by the accepted answer). Of course, precisely determining the value of an illiquid asset like a house at any given moment pretty much requires you to actually sell it, so those accounts are hard to maintain in real-time (the liability of the loan is much easier to track)."
For federal taxes the rule is fairly straight forward, assuming that nothing else changes during the year.  If you know your marginal tax rate (the rate that your last dollar of income is taxed at) last year then adding or subtracting an allowance on the w-4 form will move the amount withheld by rate x Personal exemption amount. The personal exemption for federal taxes in 2017 is $4,050. Lowering the number of allowances on the Federal W-4 increases the amount of money withheld during the year.  So for your federal W-4 form lowering the number of allowances by one if you are in the 25% bracket will cause an additional 25%x4050 or  ~$1012 a year to be withheld. Of course making the change 5/12ths of the way trough the year will mean that it will only increase the  the amount withheld the rest of the year by (7/12) * $1012 or ~$590 for the rest of the year. State taxes can be more complex due to issues regarding tax brackets, and the differences in how they calculate their taxes. Most state websites have a worksheet for making an adjustment  to their version of the W-4. Here is the form DE-4 form for California In your situation getting the numbers on the federal and state forms will be much more complex, because your combined  income for 2017 will be significantly different than your combined income for 2016.  In the case of multiple incomes getting the withholding correct is much harder even with stable income. The trick is that making the adjustment on the job with the highest income may not move the amount withheld as much as you expect. For example if the largest income is only withheld at the 15% rate but your combined income from all your combined jobs results in you being in the 25% bracket, then the above calculation would only move the amount withheld by $354 instead of $590. A couple of notes: the number of allowances on the federal and state W-4 forms don't have to match. Mine almost never do. The number of allowances on the W-4 forms doesn't have to match the number of exemptions on the 1040 form.
Your administrator will pull from last year's funds first, before automatically moving on to the new year.  The procedures are under guidelines from the IRS so it should be pretty standard. You likely only have to submit the claim once, but your administrator may have a special grace period form to fill out.
The FRB mandate is to shoot for maximum employment and stable dollar. Nowhere does it list that they should be concerned with stock prices.  Moving too quickly in the past could have triggered an exogenous shock in an already fragile housing market, developing country, or significantly slowed hiring. Instead they have the current problem which Dalio admitted on BB interview today that is manageable but tricky. His primary concern is that there will be a debt crisis. But the FRB is not in the business of trying to prevent future problems (which is partially how we got here).   Edit: I am also of the mindset that any finance person will talk their book, so I take their words with a grain of salt.
You must file as married for 2013 if you were married as of December 31, 2013. It is true that the Roth IRA contribution phaseout for Married Filing Separately is 0 - $10K. But you can still do backdoor Roth IRA contribution (contribute to a Traditional IRA, then convert it to a Roth IRA; assuming you do not have any pre-tax IRAs, this is identical to a Roth IRA contribution). But you already made a Roth IRA contribution for 2013, and did not do the backdoor. Let's assume that you want to turn it into a backdoor Roth IRA contribution, and that you don't have any pre-tax IRAs. There are two ways to do this: Withdraw the Roth IRA you contributed (including earnings). Then, do a normal backdoor Roth IRA contribution (contribute to a Traditional IRA, then immediately convert it to Roth IRA). The earnings you had in the Roth IRA that you withdrew will be treated as normal income and taxed. The conversion will not be taxable because all of the Traditional IRA was non-deductible when you converted. Re-characterize your original Roth IRA contribution as a Traditional IRA contribution, then convert it to Roth IRA. It will be treated as if you made a Traditional IRA contribution originally, and then waited until now to convert. The earnings in the IRA up till now will be taxed on conversion. So in both cases, you will need to pay income tax on the earnings in the account up to now. The difference between the two is in the amount of money in the IRA now. With the first way, you can only contribute $5500 now. With the second way, you will keep the same amount of money you have in the IRA now.
A. At any point of time, PF is the best investment option with fixed returns and capital safety. The best, returns are tax-free if you continue to hold on. Pre mature withdrawal  is possible for  Education or marriage, Medical treatment,Construction or purchase of a flat, house or plot,Repayment of Home Loan. However there are certain conditions/procedures to be followed for the pre mature withdrawal.  A provident fund (PF) is basically a plan to provide financial security after retirement. It is, therefore, not advisable to withdraw any amount from one's provident fund account as PFs are primarily meant for retirement planning, and retirement planning is the most important goal in any person's life. Hence do not touch or withdraw from PF unless and until there is no other option available.  B. Let the PF investments be as it is during your sabbatical. C. When you join a startup, may be they will have less employees. But the PF Act is very clear, any organization employing more than 19 employees ( including contract employees) should compluslory have PF system in place. You can rest assured that PF system will be in ur new company sooner than you expect.    D. There is no other solution for an alternate to EPF. Kindly do not withdraw from EPF and invest in any risky investments. Any investments you make should be in accordance with your assets allocation plan and risk profile. Do revert if you have any more queries.  Regards