vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"Insurance is bought for peace of mind and to divert disaster.   Diverting disaster is a good/great thing.  If your house burned down, if someone hit your car, or some other devastating event (think medical) happened that required a more allocation than you could afford the series of issues may snowball and cause you to lose a far greater amount of money than the initial incident.  This could be in the form of losing work time, losing a job, having to buy transportation quickly paying a premium, having to incur high rate debt and so on.   For the middle income and lower classes medical, house, and medical insurance certainly falls into these categories.  Also why a lot of states have buyout options on auto insurance (some will let you drive without insurance by proving bonding up to 250K.   Now the other insurance as I have alluded to is for peace of mind mainly.  This is your laptop insurance, vacation insurance and so on.  The premise of these insurances is that no matter what happens you can get back to ""even"" by paying just a little extra.   However what other answers have failed to clarify is the idea of insurance.  It is an agreement that you will pay a company money right now.  And then if a certain set of events happen, you follow their guidelines, they are still in business, they still have the same protocols, and so on that you will get some benefit when something ""disadvantageous"" happens to you.  We buy insurance because we think we can snap our fingers and life will be back to normal.  For bigger things like medical, home, and auto there are more regulations but I could get 1000 comments on people getting screwed over by their insurance companies.  For smaller things, almost all insurance is outsourced to a 3rd party not affiliated legally with a business.  Therefore if the costs are too high they can simply go under, and if the costs are low they continue helping the consumer (that doesn't need help).   So we buy insurance divert catastrophe or because we have fallen for the insurance sales pitch.  And an easy way to get around the sales pitch - as the person selling you the insurance if you can have their name and info and they will be personally liable if the insurance company fails their end of the bargain."
Here are some ways my family saves money on our home insurance: Here are a couple of good articles on the subject: Finally - make sure you get adequate coverage!  Make sure you consider your real insurance needs, and not just the cost of the insurance.  If the worst happens, you'll want good coverage with a good company.
It probably does make sense for you to buy term life insurance separate from your employer, for a few reasons: There are a number of life insurance calculators on the web. Try two or three -- some of them ask different questions and can give you a range of answers regarding how much coverage you should have. Then take a look at some of the online quote sites -- there are a couple that don't require you to enter your personal information, just general age/health/zip code so you can get an accurate quote for a couple of different coverage levels without having to deal with a salesman yet. (It was my experience that these quotes were very close -- within $20/year -- of what I was quoted through an agent.)  Using this information, decide how much coverage you need and can afford. If you're a homeowner, and the insurance company with whom you have your homeowner's policy offers life insurance, call them up and get a quote. They may be able to give you a discount because of your existing relationship; sanity check this against what you got from the quotes website.
Your family income will eventually increase when your fiancée gets her degree and gets a job, and at that time, you will be in a much better situation to consider buying a house. You need to move ""ASAP."" Buying a house when you are in a hurry is a generally a bad idea. When you look for a home, you need to take some time looking so you aren't rushed into a bad deal that you will regret. Even if you decide you want to buy, you should first find a place to rent; then you can take your time finding the right house. To answer your question about escrow: When you own a house, two of the required expenses that you will have besides the mortgage payment are property taxes and homeowner's insurance. These are large payments that are only due once a year. The bank holding the mortgage wants to make sure that they get paid. So to help you budget for these expenses and to ensure that these expenses are paid, the bank will add these to your monthly mortgage payment, and set them aside in a savings account (called an escrow account). Then when these bills come due once a year, they are paid for out of the escrow account."
"If your meaning of ""asset protection"" is buying gold and canned food in the name of a Nevada LLC because some radio guy said so, bad idea. For a person, if you have assets, buy appropriate liability limits with your homeowner/renter insurance policy or purchase an ""umbrella"" liability policy. This type of insurance is cheap. If you don't have assets, it may not be worth the cost of insuring yourself beyond the default limits on your renter's or homeowner's policy. If you have a business, you need to talk to your insurance agent about what coverage is appropriate for the business as a whole vs. you personally. You also need to talk to your attorney about how to conduct yourself so that your business interests are separated from your personal interests."
The basis of homeowner's insurance pricing is the AOI, or Amount of Insurance.  This pertains to the cost to rebuild the dwelling in the event of a total loss.  The standard coverages (e.g., contents, loss of use, medical payments, liability) are calculated relative to this amount.  Consequently, the AOI is selected by appraising the value of the dwelling.  This is why it is important that if parts of the dwelling are upgraded, that the cost of those upgrades are taken into account. The question is not one of denying claims should a loss occur, unless the nature of the upgrade is such that policy should not have been underwritten in the first place.  (This can happen if, for example, the homeowner builds an extension onto the house that damages the structural integrity of the dwelling.) In the end, the AOI is still just an estimate, but the takeaway is that, like scheduled personal property, jewelry, rare collectibles, or other endorsements, every home (and homeowner) has slightly different insurance needs, and it is in your interest to tailor your coverage to be as accurate as possible in reflecting your needs.  Insurance is not a one-size-fits-all product; consequently, the selection of sufficient coverage for your mix of risks is only prudent.  Now, if after you get a quote back and you find that the premium is too high, you can typically select a deductible that can reduce it, but you have to consider what amount of exposure you are willing to retain.  You should shop around, too:  different insurers use different methods and criteria to price their products, so even if the coverage is substantially similar, the premiums may vary:  for example, some insurers ask whether you own a dog (exposure to liability claims), but others do not.  Some insurers put more weight on your dwelling's geographic location (exposure to fire, theft, wind/hail) than others.
In the US you can get a home warranty when you buy a house that will cover major repairs for the first few years of owning a home.  The costs vary based on age and the results of the home inspection.  Ours cost ~$250 a year.  This was put into our closing costs.  Unfortunately this market does have some disreputable companies that come im with prices that seem too good to be true.  As is usually the case they are.  Do research on the company you are getting the home warrenty from to make sure you are dealing with a reputable company that will honor its commitments. By having 20% down you will avoid needing Mortgage insurance which will save you a considerable amout.  My PMI cost me about $70 a month. However once you get to 20% equity in your home the pmi drops off.  So if you can put down 15% you should be able to get out from under your pmi in a few years if you want to keep that 5% cushion while making extra payments. The question is how much do you feel you need.  So far owning a 70 year old home my extra maintence costs have been around 2500 a year.  But they seem to be in 1k chunks every 4 or 5 months.
While it is true that homeowners insurance will cover emergencies, it is very important to check and make sure that your policy is covering everything that it needs to. A great example is what happened to all of those without flood insurance in Tennessee last year. You may opt not to get additional coverage, but then you should make sure that you are setting aside funds for such a catastrophe.
If you have doubts about the long term prospects at your employer or jobs in your area, you may want to keep the option of moving to find a new job open while you save up for a larger down payment on a house.  While there are insurance products out there that claim to cover your mortgage, they often have loopholes which make them difficult to collect on. Insurance companies are in business to make money and premiums are high when it's likely that people will try to collect. Splitting those premiums into your mortgage and your own self-insured unemployment fund (i.e. an emergency fund in a money market bank account) will usually be a better deal. As always, make sure you have term life insurance for a family and long term disability insurance just in case something really bad happens in the near term. Buying a home is a better financial decision when you know you'll be in an area for at least 5 years. Saving until you have 20% down on place that you can afford to pay off in 15 years (even if you take a 30 year loan) will be a lot cheaper and less stressful.
I suppose if you're buying a house that you know is run down and will require major work, an inspection might be superfluous. Or if you know enough about construction that you can do an inspection yourself. Otherwise, it's like not buying insurance: sure, you save a little up front, but you're taking a huge risk. So what can you control? (a) Shop around for fire insurance. Maybe save hundreds of dollars. (b) Find a seller who's not using a realtor and then you don't use a realtor either. Save big bucks, 6 to 7% in my area, but you then have to figure out how to do all the paperwork yourself and you severely limit your buying options as most sellers DO use a realtor. Besides that, there's not much you can do.
Another reason to buy insurance, though not applicable in this case, is that the insurance company is a big buyer of services and will be able to buy any services covered under the policy much more cheaply than you will. So they can charge you less than your expected payouts if you were uninsured and still make a profit. This particularly applies to things like medical and veterinary insurance.
The issue is should you get one large policy or several smaller policies. Multiple polices have flexibility becasue if the need goes away you can drop the policy. The problem with multiple small policies is that there is overhead that you pay for multiple times. Assume that you want 100K coverage and are age x. That policy will cost you a certain amount based on a base amount plus a percentage of the coverage. The percentage is based on age, sex, smoking, health. If you double the coverage the price doesn't double becasue the base amount is constant. This base amount covers the cost of setting up your policy and maintaining the records and billing.  Keep in mind that the coverage you are asking about is not the mortgage insurance the lender makes you purchase when you have a small down payment. You are asking about a policy to cover your debts and still provide money for survivors. Go with your current agent company and ask them to run the numbers: new additional policy, increasing amount of current policy. Go with what meets your needs. Buying a house is one of those life events where you should review your insurance and retirement needs, and adjust accordingly.
"There is an economic, a social and a psychological side to the decision whether to buy insurance or not, and if yes, which one. Economically, as you say already in your question, an insurance is on average a net loss for the insured. The key word here is ""average"". If you know that there are many cancer cases in your family buy health insurance by all means; it's a sound investment. If you are a reckless driver make sure you have extensive coverage on your liability insurance. But absent such extra risks: Independently of somebody's wealth insurance should be limited to covering catastrophic events. What is often overlooked is that the insurance by all means should really cover those catastrophic events. For example the car liability minimums in many states are not sufficient. The typical upper middle class person could probably pay the 15k/30k/10k required in Arizona with a loan on their house; but a really catastrophic accident is simply not covered and would totally ruin that person and their family. Insuring petty damage is a common mistake: economically speaking, all insurances should have deductibles which are as high as one could afford to pay without feeling too much pain. That ""pain"" qualification has an economical and a social aspect. Of course any risk which materialized is an economical damage of some kind; perhaps now I can't buy the PS4, or the diamond ring, or the car, or the house, or the island which had caught my eye. I could probably do all these things, just perhaps without some extras, even if I had paid for insurance; so if I don't want to live with the risk to lose that possibility I better buy insurance. Another economical aspect is that the money may not be available without selling assets, possibly on short notice and hence not for the best price. Then an insurance fee takes the role of paying for a permanent backup credit line (and should not be more expensive than that). The social aspect is that even events which wouldn't strictly ruin a person might still force them to, say, sell their Manhattan penthouse (no more parties!) or cancel their country club membership. That is a social pain which is probably to be avoided. Another socioeconomic aspect is that you may have a relationship to the person selling you the insurance.
"Your mortgage will not allow you to rent out the whole property - they would want you on a buy-to-let mortgage (which will have worse APR than a standard) - buy to let mortgage also invalidates help to buy schemes. The help to buy scheme does not allow you to sublet.  I.e. you cannot have tenants.  However, you can have a lodger. My understanding is that they are different.  In the UK, you can make up to £7500 tax free from a lodger under the ""rent a room relief"" and as this isn't a tenant - this should be ok with both help to buy and the mortgage provider.  However I would recommend double checking with your mortgage provider - as if you break any terms and conditions, it could lead to invalidating your mortgage. Another thing to consider with lodgers (or tenants) - it generally makes insurance a LOT more expensive and wont cover you if the lodger steals your stuff or damages the property and this will include lodgers friends if they visit - so just something to bear in mind."
This is where an insurance agent is very useful. They will help you choose appropriate coverage, based on local rebuilding costs, the build quality of your house (higher quality or historic/semi-historic construction requires a different type of coverage), etc. They can also help advise you on things like the need for flood insurance, etc. Local rules can vary, and the local agent will know about them. For example, we found out that my home was in a semi-historic district, which requires using higher-cost materials for reconstruction. Also, our city separately licenses tradespeople, who tend to be unionized and thus more expensive. Had I just picked default coverages, I would have been in a pickle in the event of a loss.
If the child can take over the life insurance when they wish to get a mortgage or have their own children, there may be a case for buying insurance for the child in the event that your child's health is not good enough for them to get cover at that time. However I don’t think this type of insurance is worth having.
. IMHO you really don't need to invest (unless you drop the house plan), you need to save towards your goals. You may decide to invest a small part of the money while saving in order to learn slowly how that works, but if the house goal is already kind of fixed in time, you don't want to find yourself in the situation that you have to get out of investments at a bad time in order to be able to buy the house. Even if you consider 15 years long enough to do some investing now and then get out some time during the next 15 years, you don't have any money to invest now. Later, the risk posed by the fixed point in time when you need the money is too large: Considering the rather steep saving propositions, the marginal costs of having less money are really large. This means you don't want to go for risky investments => plain old saving is what you need. Consider also that low house prices tend to come during economic crisis (people cannot pay mortgage and have to sell) so within the time window, you want to have your money for anticyclic buying if possible."
Honestly, the best way to manage this risk is to manage your savings appropriately. Many experts recommend that maintain a reasonably liquid account with 6-9x your minimum monthly expenses for just this occurrence. I know, easier said than done. Right? As for insurance, I can only speak for what is the case in the US. Here, most mortgages will require you to get PMI insurance until you have at least 20% equity in your house. However, that insurance only protects the BANK from losing money if you can't pay. It doesn't save you from foreclosure or ruining your credit.  Really, the type of insurance you are talking about is Unemployment insurance which all states in the US make available to workers via deductions from their paycheck.  The best advice, I suppose, is to keep your expenses low enough to cover them with an unemployment check until you have accumulated enough savings to get through a rough patch. That may mean buying a less expensive home, or just waiting until you have saved a bigger down payment. If you didn't plan ahead, and you are already in the house, another option might be to extend your mortgage. For example from a 20 to a 30 year to reduce your payments to a manageable level. A more risky option might be to convert to a variable rate loan temporarily, which typically carries a lower interest rate. However, it might be hard to secure a new loan if you don't currently have an income.
Yes. As a general case, insurance proceeds are repaying you for the damage that you have already incurred, not specifically for fixing anything.  Since you have the legal right to sell the house as-is, without fixing it up at all, then you have the legal right to spend the insurance proceeds how you see fit. You can upgrade, downgrade, alter or replace your deck in any reasonable way... or do nothing.    You should call your agent and make sure that there is nothing unusual in your policy, but this kind of homeowner decision - what materials or methods to fix damage to a home... is very normal and unremarkable, so your agent will probably reassure you and end the conversation without a second's thought.
Additionally, since this is a specialty policy, make sure you understand all of the details of the policy, and how they vary from a regular policy including: How to Reduce your Premium costs These are general tips from the Murray Group's website (an independent broker in NY) on how to lower the additional cost of vacant coverage: This may sound expensive, but these steps will all reduce the risk of something really bad happening when you're not there. Additionally, do you know anyone you completely trust (relative, unemployed friend) that might want to live in your old house rent-free for a while? This could work out for you if they are willing to keep the place 100% clean around the clock so that you can show the house at any time. If you have additional/specific questions, you should be able to find an independent insurance broker in your area that would be willing to advise you on your specific situation for a flat fee. Best of luck with getting the home covered and sold quickly!"
"For a car, you're typically compelled to carry insurance, and picking up ""comprehensive"" coverage (fire, theft, act of god) is normally cheap. If the car was purchased with a loan, the lender will stipulate that you carry comprehensive and collision insurance.  People buy insurance because it limits their liability. In the grand scheme of things, pricing in a fixed rate of loss every year (insurance premium + potential deductible) is appealing to many versus having to cover a catastrophic loss when your car is wrecked or stolen."
"Every situation is possible, it depends on what the contract states. According to Nolo:  Your ability to withdraw from a home purchase depends on two things: 1) the exact point at which you are ""in contract"" to buy the house,   and  2) after you're in contract, what the contract says about terminating   the transaction. Therefore, you need to be 100% ready for anything to happen. After you sign the contract, it is binding and you must adhere to what the contract states. Buying a home is a big purchase - arguably the biggest of your life - you need to be comfortable with every aspect of this experience."
"Almost everyone needs an insurance, you should also probably buy it. If you are good at planning [which it seems from your question], you should stick to Pure ""Term"" insurance and avoid any other types / variants of CVLI.  CVLI is only advisable if one cannot commit to investing or is not good at saving money, or one feels that one loses money in Term Insurance. Otherwise term insurance is best."
There is not necessarily a need to prevent what you describe - 'turning insurance on before high risk situations'. They just need to calculate the premiums accordingly. For example, if an insurance needs to take 50$/year for insuring your house against flood, and a flood happens in average every 10 years, if you just insure the two weeks in the ten years where heavy rain is predicted, you might pay 500$ for the two weeks. The total is the same for the insurance - they get 500$, and you get insurance for the dangerous period. In the contrary; if a flooding (unexpectedly) happens outside your two weeks, they are out. From the home owners view, 500$ for two weeks when heavy rains and floods are expected, and nothing otherwise sounds pretty good, compared to 50$ every year. It is the same of course, but psychology works that way.
Answer all of their questions honestly and as accurately as you can, but don't stress too much about it.  If you don't know the answer to something, ask the insurance agent what it means; that's what they're there for.  (If you're doing this online, email the support, or the 'live chat' feature many of them have.  Or, don't do it online, if you feel better having an agent in person; nowadays, most of the major insurers are similar on price so it's not a massive savings to skip the agent.) As far as whether it's important to pick a specific insurer - that's really your call.  Read reviews, understanding that folks with bad experiences are more likely to write reviews than the 90% of folks who get no benefit from homeowner's insurance. You need to make the decision as to how important reputation and ease of claims process is versus price. That's why there are multiple insurers, after all - you can decide how important it is to you. It sounds like you would prefer a simpler claims process, so perhaps you should go with someone who is known for an easier claims process (understanding that no insurer is always going to agree with every claimant 100%).