vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
No one can make this decision for you. Involve your wife and truly value and heed her thoughts on the situation. Succeeding in such an endeavor without her full support/consent will bring an unwanted undertone into your marriage. I am personally more reserved and in your situation I would stick with my job until my start-up can stand on its own. I know it would require more work but at least it wouldn't put my family in an all-or-nothing situation. It's tempting to reach for what you don't have but sometimes it worthwhile to stand back and be truly grateful for everything you do have.
Education is crucial as I believe strongly that every child should have as an equal a chance as the next.   Food and social housing is necessary but also getting something for nothing has created a subculture in the UK where there is no desire to earn a living simply because they have it pretty good without. Community service I feel should be mandatory for people on welfare.  As for healthcare I also believe this should be free. However, in the US the cost of healthcare is monstrous and more needs to be done tackle this before it can realistically offered in a meaningful way.  However, the rest of government should be kept to a minimum. Military spending cut, taxes streamlined to reduce the complications of collecting it, more relaxed laws (such as legalising drugs) to make society easier to police, lobbying outlawed, campaign funding banned, massive reduction of number in government, etc.
Most people buy insurance because it is legally required to own a car or to have a mortgage. People want to own homes and to have personal transportation enough that they are willing to pay for required insurance costs. There are a lot of great explanations here as to why insurance is important and I don't want to detract from those at all. However, if we're being honest, most people are not sophisticated enough to measure and hedge their various financial risks. They just want to own an home and to drive a car.
Cash flow is needed for expansion, either to increase manufacturing capacity or to expand the workforce. Other times companies use it to purchase other companies. Microsoft and Google have both used their cash or stocks to purchase companies. Examples by Google include YouTube, Keyhole (Google Earth), and now part of Motorola to expand into Phones. If you are investing for the future, you don't want a lot of dividends. They do bring tax issues. That is not a big problem if you are investing in an IRA or 401K. It is an issue if the non-tax-defered mutual fund distributes those dividends via the 1099, forcing you to address it on your taxes each year. Some investors do like dividends, but they are looking for their investments to generate cash. Who would require it? Would it be an SEC requirement? Even more government paperwork for companies.
Since you are leaving the country, get it sold by a real estate agent.  If you choose to lower the price and get it done quickly, or if you choose to wait for a fair value, the key here is to get many independent referrals (like a dozen) so you agent is trustworthy. I don't think you need to sign over power of attorney as fax machines are pretty reliable these days.  I won't matter if you live 50 miles or 5000 miles away. Renting it is not a great option because you can't easily follow up from another country.   Don't sell it to the rock bottom places.  Either you don't need the money and you can afford to you wait, or you need the money and it would be best to wait.
I'm no proponent for wealth inheritance but the government taking it is no solution. Voluntary charity is which his children will most likely be doing. Doesn't matter if the money end up in the US or Asia though although personally I think Asia needs it more.
"It depends on what kind of pension you get and your anticipated retirement income. If you have one of those nice defined benefit plans that pays 90% of your last 5 years' average salary annually, you might not want to bother with a separate RRSP and put your money into other use instead. While most Canadians should worry about not having enough to retire on, some might end up with too much and costing them in the form current purchases and entitlements to government retirement benefits. Figuring out how much you need for retirement is not trivial either. A lot of people talks about planning for needing 70% of what you made now as a way to preserve your lifestyle. Well, my opinion is that those type of generalization might work for the people in the middle of the income band and is too little for those in the low-income and possibly too much for those with high income. My own approach is estimate your retirement income requirement by listing out your anticipated expenses as if you were doing budget. I would agree that's not the best approach either (back to my comment about no one size fits all), but it's one that I feel most comfortable with. Once you have that figure, factor in what you think you will get from the government (OAS, CPP and etc) and you will have the amount of money you need for retirement. I will warn against using ""average life expectancy"" to forecast your retirement needs, 'cos 50% of the people will end up with extra money (not a bad problem) and the other 50% will run out of money (bad but very true problem) if you use that approach. Instead of going on and write an essay on this topic, I will simply say this - everyone's situation is different and, just like solving any other complex problems, you need to start with ""end"" in mind and work things backward, with a ton of different scenario to be able to cope with whatever curveballs life might throw at you. If you spend enough time in the library/bookstore looking through books on the topic of ""estate planning"" and ""retirement planning"", you will find people arguing back and fro on these topics - this is a sign that this is complex and no one has the one ""good"" answer for.
The bare minimum should be 6-months of expenses.  Ideally, it should be at least 1 year.  My personal preference is 2+ years, but one thing at a time. Figure out your necessary expenses: food, shelter, transportation and necessary extras.  An example of a necessity, beyond the basics, for me is a decent internet connection.  Telephone costs is another good example.  (Meanwhile, electricity and such bills should be included in the figure for shelter.) You may want to include some allowance for clothing as well; especially for the 2+ year plan.
A Certified Financial Planner has passed a licensing exam and will advise you and help you reach your financial goals. A good CFP can help you a lot, especially if you are unsure how to set up your insurance, investment, savings, and financial plans on your own. You do not need a CFP to get a life insurance policy. If you do get a CFP, he or she should help you above and beyond life insurance -- i.e. retirement planning, investment advice, education planning, etc. It's advantageous to you to pay a fixed price for services instead of a percentage or commission. Negotiate fees up front. For life insurance, in most cases a term policy will fit your needs. Whole life, universal life, etc., combine investments and life insurance into a single product and are big commission makers for the salesman. They make it sound like the best thing ever, so be aware. One of my rules of thumb is that, generally speaking, the larger the commission is for the salesperson, the worse the product is for the consumer. Welcome to life insurance pitches. Term life is far less expensive and provides a death benefit and nothing else. If you just had a baby and need to protect your family, for example, term life is often a good solution, easy to buy, and inexpensive. As you stated, any of the major providers will do just fine.
Well, first off, if your children are NZ citizens, they can borrow money at 0% interest for tertiary education and I don't see any benefit to not taking free money. A saving account is your money, and will accrue a little bit of interest and you will pay tax on that. A family trust (I hope this is what you mean by trust fund) is a separate financial entity that can be set up to own assets for the benefit of multiple people. For example, if you have a rental property or business and you want the income divided between your children, rather than coming to you, or if you have a bach you want to keep in the family after you die.
Good answer.  I set up an S-Corp on my own, but I intend to transfer our intellectual property to an LLC at a later date.  I would say hiring an attorney to draft an operating agreement is a must and worth the expense.
I want to know ideally how much should a person save for retirement   funds? A person should save enough such that your total retirement resources will equal the amount you personally need for a comfortable retirement at the point in time when the person desires to retire. If you want to retire at 40, you may need to save quite a lot each year. If you want to retire at 70, you may need to save less each year. If you will have a pension, you may wish to save somewhat less than someone who won't have a pension. The same is true for Social Security (or your local equivalent). I am getting a feeling retirement funds is equal to financial   independence because one can live without needing to borrow money from   anyone. Sort of, but it depends on your goals. Some who are financially independent never choose to retire, but choose jobs without regard to financial need.
"Life insurance may be tax-privileged under certain circumstances. The intent must be to buy an annuity, at retirement age. Unlike ""banksparen"", you must consider what happens if you die early."
Distributions from an inherited IRA will be taxed as ordinary income and there are required minimum distributions for the inherited account. Assuming you were 55 at the time of your mother's death, your life expectancy according to the IRS is 29.6 years. Your required yearly distributions on $200,000 would be roughly $6800. For each year that you didn't withdraw that, you would owe a 50% penalty of the distribution amount (~$3400). That's probably better than the tax hit you would take if you pulled it all in as income in a 5 year window (ie. all right now since you're at the end of the window).
"If you're not convinced it's ineptitude - willful or otherwise - then ask yourself how life, property &amp; casualty insurers, endowments, foundations, etc (in addition to the bevy of DB plans that are adequately funded) have managed to survive as long as they have.  You should ask yourself:  Was this just ""bad luck,"" beyond the control of managers?  Or were these willful decisions by financial professionals, within the context of highly competitive industries, to divert resources elsewhere with the *hope* that taking a riskier path would ultimately pay off?"
In most cases, a debit card can be charged like a credit card so there is typically no strict need for a credit card. However, a debit card provides weaker guarantees to the merchant that an arbitrary amount of money will be available. This is for several reasons: As such, there are a few situations where a credit card is required. For example, Amazon requires a credit card for Prime membership, and car rental companies usually require a credit card. The following does not apply to the OP and is provided for reference. Debit cards don't build credit, so if you've never had a credit card or loan before, you'll likely have no credit history at all if you've never had a credit card. This will make it very difficult to get any nontrivially-sized loan. Also, some employers (typically if the job you're applying for involves financial or other highly sensitive information) check credit when hiring, and not having credit puts you at a disadvantage.
Will your family still be involved in any way? This can be disastrous - I've seen families torn apart by a business. If they are, be sure to establish boundaries and get every one to agree to bring in an outside mediator for any major disputes. And everybody, including you, must agree to abide by the mediator's decision. You don't want to gain a business and lose a family member/family.
generally i have sufficient funds to last 5 years or so without an income.... When I was a broke kid I would check my accounts often though... so it's just not something I prioritize in my life, already too many other things have my attention.
You don't need a Visa to create or own US property. Your registered agent will be able to take care of most of this, and your new entity will use the registered agent's address where applicable, but you may need your own separate address which can be your office in the UK. If you want privacy then you'll want a separate address, which can also be a PO Box or an address the registered agent also provides. US corporations, especially in Delaware, have a lot more compliance issues than the LLC product. Delaware has a lot more costs for formation and annual reports than most other united states. There are definitely a lot of states to choose from, but more people will have information for Delaware.
Require it to survive?  hat has that got to do with anything?  That is absolutely not the point at all.  It is a bridge to the next job.  People should not have to sell their homes and move on, especially in this environment, simply because they went without a job for several months more than they expected.  If you don't want to collect what is owed to you, then that is fine.  Do not assume that counts for others.  I know people who live in rich households who pay rent and do not eat at the table with others.  They show up in these statistics and could use the help even though it may not seem like it.  That isn't the point.  And it really isn't clear what the point is when the proposal appears to be causing people to mix their lives up in order to save the government a couple of million over the course of a year.  What is disingenuous is to set up an unemployment insurance system and then expect it to be conditional based on all kinds of criteria.  One thing you might not be keeping in mind is that the existing system has a error rate of around 20% varying a bit between states.  That means around 1 in 5 that are owed insurance payments and sign up never get anything, and around 1 in 5 that are owed nothing for whatever reason end up getting full payments anyway.  The more criteria you add to the mechanism the higher that error rate goes.  You are quibbling over details that the existing system lacks the capacity to handle.
It boils down to this:  Who, or what, would you want to take care of financially if you were to die tomorrow? That's why you need life insurance. I'm pretty sure that your creditors would line up to receive payment from the life insurance check, so that's part of figuring out how much coverage you should have. The life insurance premiums are another monthly payment, of course, but every day there is a small chance that you could die.  Insuring against that small chance vs. paying down your debt faster is a decision that needs to be made, and you (or your brother) are the ones that will make it.
~~LLPs are for licensed professionals like doctors and lawyers. He'll need to incorporate as an LLC if that's the route he goes.~~  He really should talk to a lawyer and an accountant before doing anything. There are probably no advantages to an LLC if the property isn't actually owned by the corporation.
"I understand the answers addressing the question as asked. Yes, inheriting a 401(k) can be a convoluted process.  In general, it's best to transfer the account to an IRA after separation from the company to avoid the issues both of my esteemed colleagues have referenced.  Given the issue of ""allowed by not required"" the flexibility is greater once the account has been transferred to an IRA. With few exceptions, there's little reason to leave the account with the 401(k) after leaving that company.  (Note - I understand the original question as worded can mean the account holder passes while still working for the company. In that case, this wouldn't be an option.)"
After some thought, I follow Dave Ramsey's advice because it's simple and I can do the math in my head - no online calculator needed. :) You need Life Insurance if someone depends on your income.   You can replace your income with a single lump sum of 8-10 times your current income where those who need your income, can get roughly your salary each year from the life insurance proceeds.
It really depends on the type of business  you are running.  If there is any chance of liability, you should protect yourself with an LLC.  Then it is much more difficult for them to sue and take personal assets.  For example, if you are a wedding photographer, you would want to be an LLC in case you lose someones pictures.
"I know this is a little late but here is my answer. No. You do not ""need"" to incorporate. In fact, incorporating in your situation will cost you in legal fees, administrative headaches, and a fair bit in taxes. The CRA would probably look at your corporation as a personal services corporation and it would not be allowed to claim a number of tax reductions. The tax rate would end up being over the top range (unless you are in Quebec where it would be just under the top marginal range)."
Windfalls can disappear in a heartbeat if you're not used to managing large amounts of money. That said, if you can read a bank statement and can exercise a modicum of self control over spending, you do not need a money manager. (See: Leonard Cohen)  First, spend $15 on J.L. Collins' book The Simple Path to Wealth.  https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/30646587-the-simple-path-to-wealth. Plan to spend about 4% of your wealth annually (4% of $1.2 million = $48,000) Bottom line: ALWAYS live within your means. Own your own home free and clear. Don't buy an annuity unless you have absolutely no self control. If it feels like you're spending money too fast, you almost certainly are.
"With regard to worries about ownership: I'll point you towards this - The Cohabitants Rights Bill currently in First Reading at the House of Lords. Without a date for even the second reading yet. In short the Bill is attempting to redress is the lack of rights when a non-married relationship ends when compared to married relationships; that is that one of the ""cohabitants"" can end up with basically nothing that they don't have their name on. So currently you're in the clear and (Part 2) Section 6.2.a says the Bill cannot be used retroactively against you if your relationship is over before it becomes law (I expect with Brexit etc, this Bill isn't a high priority - it's been a year since the first reading). Section 6.2.a: This Part does not apply to former cohabitants where the former cohabitants have ceased living together as a couple before the commencement date; However, if you're still together if/when this Bill becomes Law then basically all of (Part 1) Section 2 may be relevant as it notes the conditions you will fall into this bill: Section 2.1.a: live together as a couple and Section 2.2.d: have lived together as a couple for a continuous period of three years or more. and the ""have lived together"" at that point counts from the start of your cohabitation, not the start of the Bill being law: Section 2.4.a: For the purposes of subsection (2)(d), in determining the length of the continuous period during which two people have lived together as a couple - any period of the relationship that fell before the commencement date (of the Bill) is to be taken into account If you have kids at some point, you'd also fall under 2.2.a through 2.2.c too.
Here's a good rule of thumb. In any situation where you are required to purchase insurance (Auto Liability, Property Mortgage Insurance, etc.) you can safely assume that you aren't the primary beneficiary. You are being required to buy that insurance to protect someone else's investment.
While it is possible to have pre-printed checks with a limit on them, I'd be worried about two things: That limit somehow getting ignored by the banks and the resulting hassle on your part. Anyone unscrupulous could try to talk dad into simply writing more than one check. Dad should give you power of attorney and let you dole out a monthly allowance into his account. Yeah, it's a tough conversation, just like the one about not driving anymore.
For most people Term is the way to go. I consider life insurance a necessity not an investment. See this article on SmartMoney.
"Absent a pre-nup, it's a case of ""lawyer vs lawyer,"" you can't count on protecting what you came into the marriage with. In theory, what you propose sounds fair, but the reality of divorce is that everything is fair game. much depends on each spouse's earnings and impact of child-raising. For example, a woman who gives up time in a career may go after more than half, as she may be X years behind in her career path due to the choices made to stay home with the kids. I think each divorce is unique, not cookie cutter."
Check your mortgage paper work. Most mortgages have clauses requiring you to maintain the property, keep it in good repair, and to prevent spoilage. The property is the mortgagee's security for the loan, so it's reasonable that they have a voice in keeping the property in good shape. You can tell them to pound sand, and then they can call the loan due in full.
Assuming you are Resident Indian. As per Indian Income Tax  As per section 208 every person whose estimated tax liability for the year exceeds Rs.   10,000, shall pay his tax in advance in the form of “advance tax”. Thus, any taxpayer   whose estimated tax liability for the year exceeds Rs. 10,000 has to pay his tax in   advance by the due dates prescribed in this regard. However, as per section 207, a   resident senior citizen (i.e., an individual of the age of 60 years or above) not having any income from business or profession is not liable to pay advance tax.   In other words, if a person satisfies the following conditions, he will not be liable to pay advance tax:   Hence only self assessment tax need to be paid without any interest. Refer the full guideline on Income tax website
"As others have pointed out, it sounds like the problem isn't the accessibility of your money, the problem is willpower. So, address that instead. How? Willpower is both a finite resource AND a resource that can be increased -- like muscle strength. Since willpower is finite, break down the problem into as many pieces as possible, then address only one of those pieces at a time. ""Be more sensible with my money"" is nebulous, vague, and large; there's no place to start. So break it apart: first thing is the one example in your question -- you go out on payday with friends/coworkers, intending to only buy a couple of beers (alcohol lowers willpower), and end up blowing through far more. So, what about making a rule to not go out on payday? Nice idea, but that might still be too hard to do -- if you have a habit of going out with them on payday, then this has become your community, and you will feel the loneliness of not going out with them, as well as the social pressure from them to do as you've always done. So, set up a different habit for that night, one that both involves the obligation of going there instead, and other people who will expect you to be there. Some examples would be a sport that happens to practice or compete on payday nights, or some charity that happens to need you at that time. Once you've broken that habit (and exulted in the resulting fattening of your wallet), look for other, similar leaks. I'm going to guess that all your money gets spent on going out to pubs (as opposed, say, to buying bric-a-brac you don't need). If so, then you need to face that you've adopted a pub-going culture, and that your community has shrunk to just those kind of people. It may seem like you have a lot of people in your life, but if all it takes to lose connection to all of them is to stop going to pubs, then you really don't. Your human connections, essential for an enjoyable life, are too fragile, too singly focused. So if that's the problem, branch out.