vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"I know, this isn't a direct answer to your question about unloading a used car-- I've always donated it to charity and written off the price it got at auction on my taxes -- but I think the following might be useful to anyone facing a big repair bill: You know your car's condition. (If in doubt, pay your mechanic to evaluate it ""as if he was considering buying it for his daughter"".) If you were shopping for a used car, and you found one exactly like yours, in exactly the same condition, treated exactly as well as you treat yours (and with all the records to prove that), but with the repairs already done... how much would you be willing to pay for it? If that number is more than the repair cost, repairing is a good deal.  If it's less than the repair cost, is it enough less to justify the hassle of car shopping? If so, unload it and use the repair money to buy something better. If it's in the middle... flip a coin, or pick whichever makes you feel better."
"As cars age, the amount of deprecation tends to decrease.  You have already lost between 19 and 17K on the car in the past 3.5 years.  You can't lose that much on that car ever again!  First because it is not worth that much.  Second, because even if the engine blows up, or it is totaled you can always get about $300-$400 for it. If you trade this car for a newer model the same exact scenario is likely to happen again.  In three years (or so) the car will lose half its value.  If you happen to stick the same price point, and are comfortable with $5000/year going ""out the window"", then it might be time to trade up. You can get a decent idea of what your car will be worth in the 2.5 years by seeing what a 2006 with 116K miles on it.  One option is to keep driving it after it is paid off.  With putting a little money into it, and having it detailed every once in a while it can feel like a pretty sweet ride for many years and miles to come.  Even if you have maintenance costs, you won't have a car payment.  How sweet would that be?"
Generically, like farnsy noted in the other answer, you will only come ahead in dollar terms when you are significantly riskier than the average insuree. Otherwise the insurance company would have higher rates to make a profit. In the case of Apple Care there can arguably be other factors involved. If you did not insure your $2000 laptop and it broke (unfixably) just after the warranty period, would you replace it with a new Apple product? Maybe not, so Apple could lose a customer. That means they have an incentive to keep you happy. If your product breaks but insurance replaces it, you are a happier customer and more likely to buy other Apple products. This is not an incentive for traditional insurance companies that only do business in insurance. Now, with the profit margins Apple likes in general, I don't know if they've underpriced their insurance. I sort of doubt it even. But their margins on it are probably not high, meaning it's a closer call even if you are only averagely risky.
It isn't common to lose that much value in 3 years, but it is possible. If you don't take care of small dents, scratches, etc., you can quickly reduce the value far beyond what you might expect looking at graphs.  Another big factor is the trim level of the car that you purchase. If you spend $30,000 for the highest trim level of a car, instead of $22,000 for the lowest trim level, the higher trim car could lose 50% of it's value while the lower trim car loses only 35%. There's no way to know why the OP of your linked question had such a large loss, but again, that's not the usual experience. It is definitely a good idea to consider used though.
"The ""guaranteed minimum future value"" isn't really a guarantee so much as the amount they will charge you at the end of the agreement if you want to keep the car. In this sense it might better be considered a ""guaranteed maximum future cost"". If the car has fallen below that value at that point, then you can just hand back the car and you won't owe anything extra. If it turns out to be worth more, you end up in profit - though only if you either actually pay for the car, or if you roll over into a new PCP deal. So the finance company has an incentive to set it at a sensible value, otherwise they'll end up losing money. Most new cars lose a lot of value quickly initially, and then the rate of loss slows down. But given that it's lost £14k in 2 years, it seems pretty likely it'll lose much more than another £1k in the next 2 years. So it does sound like that in this case, they estimated the value badly at the start of the deal and will end up taking a loss on the deal when you hand it back at the end. It appears you also have the legal right to ""voluntary termination"" once you have paid off half the ""Total Amount Payable"". This should be documented in the PCP agreement and if you're half way into the deal then I'd expect you'll be about there. If that doesn't apply, you can try to negotiate to get out of the deal early anyway. If they look at it rationally, they should think about the value of your payments over the next two years minus the loss they will end up with at the end of those two years. But there's no guarantee they will. Disclaimer: Despite living in the UK, I hadn't heard of these contracts until I read this question, so my answer is based entirely on web searches and some inferences. The two most useful sources I found on the general subject were this one and this one."
17.5 thousand miles/year is pretty high mileage.  You could find an Accord or Civic of comparable age with much lower mileage than that, and it wouldn't be a stretch for someone (even with your limited credit history) to get a loan on an old car like that.  You might try to have your parents cosign on a loan depending on their financial circumstances.  That's how I bought my first car 13 years ago. The biggest surprise you might want to consider is the cost of full collision auto coverage which will be required by whatever bank you finance through.  Get quotes for that before signing any papers.  (I spent $2000 more on a motorcycle because the more powerful one cost $2000 less/year to insure just a few years after I bought that first car.)  Speaking of which, another thing to consider given the nice LA weather is a motorcycle.  The total cost of ownership is much lower than a car.  You will probably not want to pursue that option if you do not have medical insurance, and you may not want to anyway.
"This question has been asked and answered before. Financially, owning a car will be more economical than leasing one in most cases. The reason for this is that leasing arrangements are designed to make a profit for the leasing company over and above the value of the car. A leasing company that does not profit off their customers will not be in business for long. This is a zero-sum game and the leasing customer is the loser. The lion's share of the customer losses are in maintenance and in the event of an accident or other damage. In both cases, leasing arrangements are designed to make a large profit for the owner. The average customer assumes they will never get into an accident and they underestimate the losses they will take on the maintenance. For example, if both oxygen sensors need to be replaced and it would have cost you $800 to replace them yourself, but the leasing company charges you $1200, then BOOM! you just lost $400. If the car is totaled, the customer will lose many thousands of dollars. Leasing contracts are designed to make money for the owner, not the customer. Another way leasing agents make money is on ""required maintenance"". Most leasing contracts require the leasor to perform ""required"" maintenance, oil changes, tire rotations, etc. Also, with newer cars manufacturers recalls are common. Those are required as well. Nearly nobody does this maintenance correctly. This gives the agent the excuse to charge the customer thousands of dollars when the vehicle is returned. Bills of $4000 to $6000 on a 3 year lease for failure to perform required maintenance are common. Its items like this that allow the leasing agent to get a profit on what looks like a ""good deal"" when the customer walked in the door 3 years previously. The advantage of leasing is that it costs less up front and it is more convenient to switch to a different car because you don't have to sell the car."
"Does your planning include contingencies for Can you afford the late fees, insurance increases, bad credit hits and all the other downsides when this goes bad? Why does she NEED a new car on lease? Personally? I'd go for option B) Do what it takes to have her OWN a car. Why not just have her get a car that costs IN ENTIRE the $3k that would be used for a down payment on a lease? Maybe add a bit of your own money ""for old times sake"" to the pile? Or a small loan to get to where she can get a usable, dependable car? Say, a $3-5k loan in your name that she's responsible for the payments. $3-10k can get a very dependable old car. 10 great cars for 6k or less Everyone else has been burned by her - for whatever reason. No idea what the reasons are, but she seems to be unable to pay her bills. Why would this time be any different? Your name on a car + someone who can't pay bills = a bad proposition. I would LOVE to help anyone who's been important in my life. Including MY x-wife. But I wouldn't agree to this deal unless I KNEW that I could 100% cover the costs when things go bad - because at this point, odds are they will."
I don't buy new cars anymore, but I've helped family members negotiate prices on new cars recently. There are various online services to see the average price paid, as well as the low outliers. I've looked at truecar.com for instance to see what others have paid within 50 miles of my zip-code. I think the only way for you to know you're being offered a good deal is to see if any of the other dealers that have not responded are willing to talk when you offer them $22,300 which the dealer above suggested was break-even point. If none of them respond, then you know you're really at the bottom of the negotiating window. If one of them does respond, then you can go back to that internet sales manager and ask why another dealership (do not disclose which one) is willing to sell it to you for less than $22,400 (do not disclose how much lower they offered to sell it for).  In my experience, most dealers will sell at or just below the break-even price at the end of the quarter so that they can beat other dealerships out for the quota. That gives you a week and a half to find the bottom price before going in on New Years Eve to seal the deal.
Yes, but should you be even trying to get a mortgage if you can't aford at least a 5% deposit? Prove you do want the house by doing without a new car for a few years...
Americans have this blind faith in American car companies.  When I started dating my gf (6yrs ago) her parents were hard-core American car buyers. Her mom had a brand new top of the line impala.  That car had so many problems that the cost of ownership had to be outrageous.  The one thing that was a constant problem is it had factory 18in alloy rims and the tires kept going bald on the inside like way before they should have. Her mom kept taking it to the dealership to get the problem fixed because you shouldn't have to get new tires every 15k miles.  They said all sorts of crap like the camber kit was wrong and god knows what else.  I think that was they last straw for them because she got rid of it and got a Kia Cadenza which has had no problems.  The one brand I would absolutely never buy is a Chevy.  That company has continually produced shit vehicles that cost a fortune to own for the last 30 years. They wonder why they almost went out of business. Well when you can buy a Honda and get 200k miles from your investment without having the car in the dealership twice a year with major repairs and terrible warranties that don't cover shit, people will end up buying soemthing that lasts.
Accidents and tickets more than 3 years old generally won't affect you.   I use an insurance broker who shops a bunch of different companies and buys me the best policy. (He gets a cut as a middle-man, but saves me more than going direct and gives great advice when I have a question.)   Since you haven't been only your own policy lately, it will cost you more than someone with a 3 year history with a perfect record, but if you shop around, you will find something at a fair price.   Also, your credit score often factors into the price you pay for car insurance also.
Insurance companies vary.  A former roommate of mine had to add me to her policy as a driver even though there was 0 chance I was ever going to drive this roommate's car.  My insurance company on the other hand had me add my spouse after we got married even though they had his information for a different transaction before the wedding.
Your loan on the new car will be for $21,195, $20,000 for the new car and $1,195 for the amount you still owed on the old car after the dealership paid you $7,000 for your old car. It doesn't matter what your down-payment was on the old car, it doesn't matter what your payment was before, it doesn't matter what you bought your old car for. All that matters is how much you owe on it today and how much the buyer (the dealership) is willing to pay you for it. How much of this is ""loss"" is an extremely vague number to derive primarily because your utility of the car has a value. But it could be argued that the $1,195 added on to your new car loan to pay for the old car is lost."
For so little use, you are probably better off not owning a car. Car ownership has high fixed costs and unexpected ones like repairs. Difficult parking makes it worse. If you do buy a car, you probably shouldn't buy a new $20k one. A used car will depreciate much less. Be aware that if you own a car, you will end up using it much more than you thought. That may be good or bad. When you already paid the fixed costs, using it feels almost free, so you will start driving where you used to bike to take public transport. Then you will notice that parking in the center is annoying, so you will start shopping at big stores out of town.
There's no reason for a chargeback, and you might get charged a fee for invalid chargeback or even sued by the insurance company. You need to always read the contract and see what the auto-renew policy is and what the local law on the issue is. It might be that you in fact approved that charge. In any case, since they agreed to refund, and within a reasonable period of time, your chargeback will be invalid. It is likely that by the time the chargeback is even processed by the bank, the refund will be there already.
In the UK at least, many insurers often charge an equal or greater amount for lower levels of cover, because the people who choose these policies tend to be worse risks. Re switching vehicles - a cheap old car will not necessarily be much cheaper to insure than a new expensive one, as you can still injure people with it or crash into other people's cars, and the newer car will probably have better safety features. However, a less powerful and smaller vehicle typically poses less of a threat to others and will therefore be cheaper to insure. Another tactic not mentioned so far is 'reverse fronting'. 'Fronting', where the main driver poses as an additional driver and nominates a less risky driver as the main driver, is illegal, but the reverse - adding a less risky driver as an additional driver - is legal and can sometimes reduce premiums. This is because only one of you can drive the car at any one time, and sometimes it'll be the less risky one. So, especially if you're male and aged < 25, see if adding your safest parent as a named driver makes a difference. If you have the choice of storing your car on a driveway or on the street, get quotes for both and see which is cheaper. If you live in an area where burglary is commonplace, thieves are more likely to steal cars left on driveways, as they can break into the owner's home and steal the keys. If not, the driveway is better, as it reduces the risk of a collision. If you have previously driven another vehicle (e.g. motorbike or moped), or if you've been insured as an additional driver on someone else's car, call up insurers directly and ask if they can offer you a no-claims bonus for this. Quotes from price comparison websites tend to limit you to the numbers of years of no-claims you've accrued as a main driver, and may not reflect your full available no-claims bonus. Extreme measures Some insurers give you the option to install a tracking device in your car that can tell them various things, e.g. Some people may be uncomfortable sharing this much information with their insurer, but for particularly risky drivers (I'm looking at you, males < 25) it can sometimes result in a substantial saving.
"It's possible the $16,000 was for more than the car.  Perhaps extras were added on at purchase time; or perhaps they were folded into the retail price of the car.  Here's an example.  2014: I'm ready to buy. My 3-year-old trade-in originally cost $15,000, and I financed it for 6 years and still owe $6500.  It has lots of miles and excess wear, so fair blue-book is $4500. I'm ""upside down"" by $2000, meaning I'd have to pay $2000 cash just to walk away from the car.  I'll never have that, because I'm not a saver.  So how can we get you in a new car today?  Dealer says ""If you pay the full $15,000 retail price plus $1000 of worthless dealer add-ons like wax undercoat (instead of the common discounted $14,000 price), I'll eat your $2000 loss on the trade.""  All gets folded into my new car financing.  It's magic! (actually it's called rollover.)  2017: I'm getting itchy to trade up, and doggone it, I'm upside down on this car.  Why does this keep happening to me?  In this case, it's rollover and other add-ons, combined with too-long car loans (6 year), combined with excessive mileage and wear on the vehicle."
I have looked at the conditions of a car rental company, and I believe it provides the answers: Upon pick up of your vehicle, you must present a valid credit card (*)   used to make the booking and which must be in the driver´s name. If   you do not have a valid credit card we will accept your debit card   when you pick up your vehicle. However, as we cannot reserve credit to   cover the potential damage or refueling costs, you will need to take   SuperCover and a fuel tank of fuel at the start of the rental. We will   refund the value of the unused fuel at the end of the rental unless   otherwise agreed with you. (*) VISA, MasterCard and American Express   are accepted. Credit card or Third Party Insurance IMPORTANT: In case of damage, we   will charge you the incurred amount up to the excess. You will then   need to reclaim this amount from the provider of the credit card or   third party insurer. We strongly recommend that you fully read and   understand the terms and conditions of any cover provided by your   chosen provider before you decline any of our optional services.   Without our SuperCover, should you damage the vehicle during your   rental period, we will charge you the corresponding amount up to the   excess, regardless of whether you can subsequently reclaim this amount   from the provider of the credit card or the third party insurer. In   the event you would like to dispute any of the above mentioned charges   you should send your request by mail or email to the Firefly location   state on your rental agreement. https://global.fireflycarrental.com/qualifications-ES.html From that, we can conclude that : It's likely that disputes with customers in case of damage cost a lot to car rental companies, and for the 2 above reasons, demanding a credit card may alleviate it.
If you're really strapped for cash, you can get one on the off-chance the furnace or air conditioner goes.  But if you do have the cash to self-insure against these kinds of things, I wouldn't bother with the home warranty. Here was our experience.  Our daughter was only a few months old, and the air conditioner went in June, in Virginia.  We called in the warranty.  They came out, tried the cheapest fix they could to fix the leak.  It didn't work again in two days.  Two weeks later, they try again with the next cheapest fix.  (By this point, we had gotten a window unit for our bedroom.)  It didn't work again in two days.  Two more weeks later, they finally got authorization to replace the unit.  They replaced it with the cheapest one they could, and wanted to charge me $75 to haul the old one away.  When I said no thanks to that extra service (I was calling from work at the time), the guy ended the conversation in a huff, walked away from the phone and drove off.  I later found out (when I called a reputable HVAC guy) that they didn't even hook the thing up correctly! What happens is the contractors get squeezed by the warranty company at every turn.  These calls get low priority, and the quality of service is as low as they can get away with without violating the terms of their contract with the warranty company. For the big stuff, it's better than nothing, but not much better.  Check to see that the big stuff is still covered before buying it at all, and drop it after getting a payout (like we did).
I have one additional recommendation: if the dealer continues to press the issue, tell them that they need to drop it, or you will write a Yelp review in excruciating detail about the entire experience. Used car dealers are very aware of their Yelp presence and don't like to see recent, negative reviews because it can cost them a lot of new business. (I'm assuming this is a used car. If it's a new car, you could go over their heads and bring up the problem with the manufacturer. Dealers hate it when you go directly to the manufacturer with a dealer complaint.)
Average life of a car is 8 years/150k.  And, btw, EV batteries are warrantied for 8/100k by law.  Warranties are not the average amount of time a battery will last, they're the minimum.  Here's one which has gone 300k miles, which is more than 25 years worth of mileage for the average driver: http://www.tesloop.com/blog/2017/8/30/tesla-model-s-hits-300k-miles-with-less-than-11k-maintenance-costs
Best Buy places heavy emphasis on it's employees to sell Extended Warranty/Protection Plans. It is extremely annoying when they try to sell you a warranty on a $10 alarm clock - more so when the warranty cost more than the product. I avoid Best Buy as much as possible just because I don't wan't to hear the warranty pitch anymore.
No you dont need to take your car to DMV, They will send you the number plate and registration sticker to your home address.  Dealer would have already charged you for that, he will send all the information to DMV and the temporary plate is also created through DMV only.
The risk besides the extra interest is that you might be upside down on the loan. Because the car loses value the moment you drive off the lot, the slower you pay it off the longer it takes to get the loan balance below the resale value. Of course if you have a significant down payment, the risk of being upside down is not as great. Even buying a used car doesn't help because if you try to sell it back to the dealer the next week they wont give you the full price you paid. Some people try and split the difference, get the longer term loan, but then pay it off as quickly as the shorter term loan. Yes the interest rate is higher but if you need to drop the payment back to the required level you can do so.
"If you can afford to replace your car, it is more cost effective, on average and over time, not to carry comprehensive and collision insurance. The insurance companies do make a profit, after all. However, you may be able to worry less (""What if someone steals my car if I park here?"") with the insurance, and you have the knowledge the you won't have to spend your own money on a new car if something happens to this one, which may help with financial planning."