vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
The result of that situation depends on the exact circumstances; if a utility check bounces, they may try to run it again the next day, or they may immediately cut your utilities and come after you for the balance. At point-of-sale, they simply won't give you the merchandise. Some places are really rabid about pursuing ""hot check writers""; if the check doesn't clear you have to pay in cash, on the spot, or they call the police. As far as ""interest on debt"", it doesn't work that way; it's a ""service fee"", otherwise it would be subject to some pretty hefty federal regulation. However, if you figure it as interest, you'd be amazed; let's say you bought lunch at a burger joint for $10. You didn't have enough in the account, but it was close, so the bank let it go - and charged you $35. You have effectively inflated the cost of that meal to $45, a 350% instantaneous price increase (or if you prefer, 350% interest on that $10); I dunno about you but if I were paying $45 for one lunch it wouldn't be at a burger joint. Most banks simply will not process a check on an already-overdrawn account, overdraft service or otherwise; they'll hit you for the overdraft fee (usually actually a fee for an NSF check) AND decline the payment. So, if you had $1 in your account and wrote a rent check for $1000, it'd still bounce even with overdraft service."
"To expand on @JoeTaxpayer's answer, the devil is actually in the fine print. All the ""credit-card checks"" that I have ever received in the mail explicitly says that the checks cannot be used to pay off (or pay down) the balance on any other credit card issued by the same bank, whether the card is branded with the bank logo or is branded with a department-store or airline logo etc. The checks can be used to pay utilities, or even taxes, without paying the ""service fee"" that is charged for using a credit card for such payments. The payee is paid the face amount of the check, in contrast to charges on a credit card from a merchant who gets to collect only about 95%-98% of the amount on the ""charge slip"". Generally speaking, balance transfer offers are a bad deal regardless of whether you pay only the minimum amount due each month or whether you pay each month's statement balance in full by the due date or anything in between. The rest of this answer is an explanation in support of the above assertion. Feel free to TL;DR it if you like. If you make only the minimum payment due each month and some parts of the balance that you are carrying has different interest rates applicable than other parts, then your payment can be applied to any part of the balance at the bank's discretion. It need hardly be said that the bank invariably chooses to apply it to pay off the lowest-rate portion. By law (CARD Act of 2009), anything above the minimum payment due must be applied to pay off the highest-rate part (and then the next highest rate part, etc), but minimum payment or less is at the bank's discretion. As an illustration, suppose that you are not using your credit cards any more and are conscientiously paying down the balances due by making the minimum payment due each month. Suppose also that you have a balance of $1000 carrying 12% APR on Card A, and pay off the entire balance of $500 on Card B, transferring the amount at 0% APR to Card A for which you are billed a 2% fee.
Most companies that have employee discounts have policies to prevent exactly this. Sometimes they will say that you can only use the company discount for products that you intend to use yourself, they'll specifically ban buying things for friends. Of course enforcing such a rule can be difficult, but a car is a big enough purchase that if they have such a rule, they're likely to pay attention. Other times they try to discourage letting friends use your discount by having rules that make it awkward. Like I used to work for a furniture company that said you had to pick up the furniture personally at the office where you worked. So if you wanted to buy a sofa for your brother who lived in another state, you'd have to pay to ship it, and probably wipe out most of the savings from the employee discount. My daughter's employer says you have to show your employee ID when you make the purchase and then they deduct it from your next paycheck. So you'd have to get your friend to pay you back, maybe loan them your ID if they want to pick it out, which would get awkward. Etc. Assuming the company doesn't care if you buy with an employee discount and re-sell, or their rules are lax enough that you can get away with it, I'm not aware of any law that would stop you. In general there aren't any laws against you re-selling things you've bought. People have garage sales and sell used cars and the like all the time. (There are specific exceptions. Like you can't re-sell prescription drugs.)
You were the subject of a typical scam - you cashed a check that was drawn on a stolen account, and then you forwarded the money to a second account or via other means (Western Union etc).  The owner of the stolen account informed their bank and the check was reversed, returning the original money from your account, leaving you completely out of pocket. If you forwarded the money by bank transfer or check, contact your bank and report the fraud.  If you forwarded the money via another means, such as Western Union, then these methods are usually non-reversible and you will remain out of pocket. You will not be able to get the money back from the stolen account, that was their bank reversing a fraudulent check, they wont do anything to help you. Talk to your bank.  Talk to the police.
The bottom line is something in your story is not adding up.   You had two checks one that is voided, and one that is not.  Lets say they are both written against your account for $100.  Lets also assume that have exactly $100 in your account. You give the Liquor Store the voided one, they give you $100, but when they attempt to cash the check at their bank they are denied and assessed a $20 fee.  You spend the $100 they gave you; however, you still should have $100 in your account as the check was not cashed. You want to make things right with the liquor store.  You should be able to withdraw the $100 you still have in the bank and give them that much.  While they will still be out the $20 fee, that should make them feel much better about you as a customer.  Tell them when you will be paid and that you will give them the $20 on that date.  Then do so. The only way this problem is not solvable is that you spent the $100 that was left in the bank.  In that case, the Liquor store is correct you stole the money.  More accurately you spent money that wasn't yours.
I have been using Bill Pay from BoA, Chase, and a local Credit Union, all for at least five years (maybe even 10), and never had any issues with lost checks. Sometimes, an address given to me was incorrect, and what happens is either nothing (meaning, after 90 days, the check is considered outdated and the money gets reimbursed in the account) the bank notifies me after about two weeks that the check was returned as 'recipient not found at that address' or 'invalid address', and the money gets restored right then. That is no guarantee, of course, that nothing will ever happen. But banks are not supposed to accept checks where the recipient name does not match. Also, you should consider using 'Quick Pay' or 'Pay an individual' instead, whatever your bank calls it. That will transfer the money same or next day to your other account, without ever mailing a check. You do not need to enter account information across banks, it works by both banks contacting you through your logins/emails.
What I'm reading is that they subtracted the $85 you owe them and they're cutting you a cashier's check for the rest. Ethically speaking, you owed them the money, they subtracted it and made you a check for the rest.  Once you cash that check, nobody owes anyone anything in this equation.  Sounds like they're in the clear. Legally speaking, I have no idea, since I'm not a lawyer, but even if it was not legal, good luck getting the $85 back without spending far more in retaining a lawyer and fighting it in court.  Even fighting it in small claims court will take more of your time than $85 is worth. If it's your time that is the problem, 12 days is not horrible in banking terms.  Yes, we're spoiled now by ACH transfers and same day deposit availability, but since you're retired, I'm sure if you think back you'll remember when it used to take two business weeks to clear a check... TLDR; cancel future deposits to that bank, find a new bank, then forget this fiasco and get your revenge by enjoying your life.
Party A uses the $4.25 from B to pay his bank, and pays $3 to B. Party A has lowered his interest expense by $1.25 and his position is considered ""in-the-money"", which means he is benefitting from the transaction. Party B gets $3 from A but still owes his bank $4.25. In reality, the transaction nets out to B paying A $1.25, rather than both A and B paying each other different amounts. B is ""out-of-the-money"" because in aggregate he is paying A. The market value of the swap would be the present value of that $1.25 benefit A receives, discounted using expected future interest rates (the same number but negative is the value to B). Please ask if you have additional questions or need clarifications."
Because your friend isn't going to like the ~2% charge they have to pay to the credit card company on the $10,000 purchase. Credit card companies make money off of transactions. The cardholder normally doesn't pay any transaction fees (and in fact can make a profit via rewards), but the merchant has to pay a certain amount of money to the credit card company for the transaction. In this case, the apartment owners ate the charge, likely because it was easier for them to send a check than to refund the cost of the fee through the credit card company. If you started doing this a lot to take advantage of this, I would imagine they would get smart and refuse your business (it'll be pretty obvious what you're doing if you're not signing any leases).
You're certainly still responsible to pay what you owe the company given that: 1. for whatever reason, the recipient never received the checks. and 2. the money was credited back to you, albeit in a less than timely manner. However, if you take the time to explain the situation to the business, and show them proof that you sent the payments I would guess they would probably be willing to work with you on removing any late fees you have been assessed or possibly setting up a payment plan. Also, if you have been charged any overdraft or minimum balance fees by your bank while they held your money for the payments that was eventually credited back to your account, you might be able to get them to refund those if you explain what has happened. This is really a perfect example though of why balancing your checking account is as important today as it ever was.
"I believe the banks are protecting themselves when they ""require"" your endorsement. Years ago. they used to ask for your endorsement, and not require it. If you endorse the check, it legally authorizes them to debit your account, if the check is later returned for non-sufficient funds (NSF). It mostly protects the bank, and not the customer."
Someone online asking for your bank account info never has your best interests at heart. They can send you a check and while it may take a while to really clear, they can't use it to suck money out of your account. Be very cautious.
Even if you avoid the issue of the auto dealer wanting to limit the abuse of their policy, you have to realize that the discount they give is 25% off of some stated price. It might be 25% off the sticker. They don't want to lose money, the 25% represents the haggling they avoid by selling to the employee. This means the discount might not be as large as you imagine, because you wouldn't have paid sticker if you had purchased the vehicle on your own. The other issue you will have to deal with is taxes and registration. When your friend drives the car off the lot, the car will have to be registered with the state. Then they will have to sell the car to you, and that transaction will have to be done though the state, for a price. Then you will sell it to somebody else. These transaction fees will cut into your profits.  It is likely that when the potential purchaser runs a VIN check through a service it will show multiple owners, which can cut the estimated resale value. The manufacturer will also have to be notified so that all the relevant warranty coverage is still intact.  The question is for that final sale: can you offer enough discount compared to the new car dealer? and still make enough profit to be worth the hassle?
"The real question you're asking is how you can work for your business. You cannot. Whether your ""friend"" pays you or not is entirely irrelevant. Claiming your work-related earnings as interest/dividend will make it also a tax fraud, in addition to the immigration violation (i.e.: not only deportation but also potentially jail time)."
If the check is made out to him, he will have to endorse it. Which means that at some point he will have to physically have the check in his hands. At which point, he could probably just deposit it himself. If there's some problem getting the check to him for him to sign it, you could call the bank and ask if they'll accept it for deposit to his account without a signature. I understand some banks will do this. I would be very surprised if they would let you deposit a check made out to your son to your account. They'd have no way of knowing if your son was agreeable to this or if you were stealing his money. Traditionally, the person the check was made out to could endorse it, give the check to someone else, and then the second person could endorse it and deposit it to their (the second person's) account. That is, the endorsement would have your son's signature, and below that, your signature. But I understand some banks won't accept this any more, so you'd be best to check before trying it.
If one does pay, one should only pay after they get a letter stating such a payment fully satisfies the debt. Then, one should only pay via money order or cashiers check.  Never pay by personal check or credit card.  Send such a payment via certified mail to ensure delivery. As stated in other answers: There might be an issue of honoring your debts, but that doesn't come into play here.  You already didn't pay your debt, and the original owner of the note already took money.  Paying this debt is only money in pocket of the debt collector.  The scammier they are, and the worse they treat you would factor in.
Why do I need to put her information into these quotes?  Because you are getting your quote through a website instead of via a human being.  They likely programmed their system for the most likely scenarios. Doesn't her insurance cover her driving other people's cars? Yes, it should.  The big questions: for how much damage and is it liability only? My advice: don't be lazy, make the calls and find out the details.  Not everything can be answered on the internet. :)
"Yes. Because you co-signed the loan, you are responsible for the loan just as much as she was. When you co-sign a loan, you are essentially saying ""I will pay this loan if the other person can't."""
"How does this get any business? You'd be surprised on how much profit these type of businesses can bring in and the number of people who cash their checks this way. They make profit off people who want their checks cashed ASAP. Usually cheques written to ""cash"" or something can just be cashed for   free at the bank right? Yes, most banks cash your check for free. Some may not cash it right away and may require a few days to process. Some charge a small fee if the check is not from the same bank. Some personal checks may not even be processed the same day as well. Wouldn't the only cheques that people would cash at these places be   bad cheques? Yes and no. Yes because it may be ""easier"" to try to cash a fraudulent check at these type of check cashing places. However, some places may only cash business checks and require your ID in which they write down the information in order to possibly track you down in the future. Also some places only cash a check to a certain amount.  And wouldn't this mean that the business will lose a lot of money   since it pays out cash but then has the cheque bounce?  Of course the business loses money if the check bounces or is fake. That is why they try to minimize their losses with certain requirements that needs to met before the check can be cashed. Who uses these services exactly? Just about anyone who needs their check cashed ASAP or like ChrisW stated in his answer is trying to keep their money on the low. There is a demand for this service even though it may seem shady to you."
"Its a classic sign of fraud. The fraud is on you. You cashed the check not given to you, and not endorsed by the person its given to, so even if the check is legit you're still in trouble. There are many variations of this scheme, but the common thing is that the ""innocent"" third party is given a check to cash, and gives its own check or cash in return. The check ends up being forged, stolen, or otherwise invalid, but the cash/check the third party gave is long gone. Usually its cash, because its untraceable. You should wait at least a couple of weeks to make sure the check doesn't bounce. You might want to contact the check owner to verify its legit, and suggest to return the money, if it is not. You might also want to consult with an attorney. Bear in mind, that it might be reported to the authorities as a money laundering scheme (which it very well might be), and you'll have some explaining to do in this case, even if the check is legit."
Now, technically she is supposed to pay rent, but legally I am not sure. Her name is not there in the rental agreement so she is not eligible to pay the rent. Since, she is already living in the same house, there is some basic courtesy to pay the $200. Now thing here is how are we going to divide it? If she is paying $200, will that be deducted out of your room mate's or yours. Fact of the matter is, who is taking more space and who is paying for it, since there is no change to your space, you should continue paying the same amount, because there is no change in your space as you mentioned before. Moreover the fact that she is paying the utilities is good enough because that is shared by all 3. So keep the arrangement like somewhat like this, you pay half the rent + utilities, and your friend and his girlfriend will pay their share of the rent which is equal to yours, and they will share the utilities too. Hope this makes sense.   Thanks, Thenicejerk
The person writing the check has already signed and endorsed it. The depositer's signature is not to confirm the check's validity, but to demonstrate that the check was depisited to the correct Fred Smith's account, and permit charges to be brought if, eg, Fred Bonzo Smith tries to steal Fred Gnorph Smith's check.
"You get to keep the money if, and only if, you confirm with both parties (the loan and the mattress companies) that you received a refund twice, and both parties agree that they know that with no miscommunication, and they both agree to let you keep it.  In writing.  And even then it might be shifty depending on amounts. Generally speaking, you should not consider the money yours.  It was refunded in error, after all.  And it would have made more sense to confirm your communication before you deposited it, and you maybe shouldn't have moved it into savings, either - that looks kinda shifty, like keeping the money unavailable.  Planning to keep it - or even just keep it ""till the shoe drops"" - looks an awful lot like fraud.  As in, the crime.  Taking or keeping money that doesn't belong to you, when you know it doesn't belong to you, is stealing.   Since you know you got the payment in error, it is your responsibility to make at minimum a reasonable effort to make sure the money goes where it was intended to go - and by ""reasonable effort"" I mean roughly what kind of effort the companies should put in, in your view, if the error had worked out the other way with neither paying you back.   At what point, if any, should they consider the money theirs, in the reversed situation? Depending on the amount involved, and the companies' attitudes, it is possible (not necessarily likely, but possible) that each company will hear your story, and respond (confirmed, in writing) that they have no problem letting you keep the payment from their company.  In the companies' view, this might be about how much it would cost to recoup the amount (and is thus more likely for very small amounts), or else writing off the cost for customer service or PR. If both companies do this, you have the money free and clear.  But I would not depend on this, companies have just as much reason to want money as you do - especially when belongs to them."
At this point, if you add up all the category balances, you'll get $1,890. And if you add up your account balances, you'll also get $1,890, because CHECKING has $1,900 and CREDITCARD has $-10. If you get your checking account bank statement at this time, the account balance of $1,900 should match the statement and you'll see the payment to the grocery store, assuming the check has cleared. And if the credit card bill comes now, you'll see the fast food purchase and the balance of $-10. When you write a check to pay this credit card bill, you enter this in YNAB as an account transfer of $10 from CHECKING to CREDITCARD. This transfer does not affect any of your category balances; they remain the same. But now your CHECKING account balance is down to $1,890, and CREDITCARD is back to $0. This works just as well whether you have one checking account and one credit card, or 2 checking accounts, 2 savings accounts, and 3 credit cards. When you want to spend some money, you look at your category balance. If there is money in there, then the money is available to spend somewhere in one of your accounts. Then you pick an account you want to pay with, and, looking at the account balance, if there isn't enough money in that account to pay it, you just need to move some money from another account into that one, or pick a different account. When you pay for an expense with a credit card, the money gets deducted from the category balances immediately, and is no longer available to spend on something else."
You're speaking as a private individual. If you owe money to a friend or family member, IOW if it's a *personal* loan from someone you *personally* know, then yes, there is an absolute moral obligation to pay it back if at all possible. But the big banks are not 'people you know'. They treat you like a set of numbers- no more and no less. You are an opportunity for them to make money. They will take from you all they can legally get (or less than legally if they can get away with it). They have no reciprocating feeling of 'personal resposibility'. Banks are not humans even if humans work for them. They follow the coldly rational, impersonally merciless path of greatest profit in the most immediate term, without the slightest concern for *your* humanity or needs.
Such funds are handed over to the state. In NE, like in many states, there is a government website where you can search by your name, find them, and claim them (with proof of your identity, etc.): https://treasurer.nebraska.gov/up/ For sure, the bank cannot just take the money. It is sitting somewhere, the bank just closed the account, meaning they are technically not managing your money anymore.
You should have her sell it to you for the amount of the outstanding loan. You take out a loan in your name for the amount (or at least, the amount you have to come up with). You then transfer the title from her to you, just as you would if you were buying the car from someone else. While the title is in her name, she has ownership. This isn't a technicality, this is the explicit legal situation you two have agreed to.