vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
I agree with you that you need to consolidate this debt using a loan. It may be hard to find a bank or credit organization that will give you an unsecured personal loan for that much money.  I know of one, called Lending Club (Disclaimer - I'm an investor on this platform. Not trying to advertise, it's just the only place I know of off the top of my head) that facilitates loans like this, but instead of a bank financing the loan, the loan is split up accross hundreds of investors who each contribute a small amount (such as $25). They have rates anywhere between 5-30%, based on your credit profile(s), and I believe they have some loan amounts that go up to the area that you're discussing.  Regarding buying the house - The best thing you can do when trying to buy a house is to save up a 20% downpayment, if at all possible. Below this amount, you may be asked to pay for 'PMI' - Private Mortgage Insurance. This is a charge that doesn't go away for quite a while (until you've paid them 20% of the appraised value of the home), where you pay a premium because you didn't have the 20% downpayment for the house.  I would suggest you try to eliminate your credit card debt as soon as possible, and would recommend the same for your father. Getting your utilization down and reconsolidating the large debts with a loan will help to reduce interest charges and get you a reasonable, fixed payment.  Whether you decide to pay off your own balances using your savings account is up to you; if it were me, personally, I'd do so immediately rather than trying to pay it off over time. But if you lose money to taxes by withdrawing the money from your 'tax free savings account', it may not be a beneficial situation.  Treat debt, especially credit card debt, like an emergency at all times, and you'll find yourself in a better place as a result.  Credit card debt and balances are and should be temporary, and their rates and fees are structured that way. If, for any reason, you expect that a credit card's balance will remain for an extended period of time, you may want to consider whether it would be advantageous for you to consolidate the debt into a loan, instead.
I'd start paying off the smallest balance first.   Hopefully, that can get cleared in a few months.   When that happens, close the account and try to get your bank loan again.    Keep repeating this process until either you pay off all of the debt.     After you've paid off one or two loans and put the negative marks of your credit history further into the past, you'll be able to make better progress.
Everyone is telling you how to manage your finances, good for them that's not an answer to your question. The real answer solves how to get your money to travel. The bank likely might extend you a loan especially if you have assets greater than the amount borrowed.  However, a better solution (or alternative if the bank's rate are too high or they simply won't give it to you) is to go to a P2P lending platform these are copious in the UK and US. If I remember correctly there was a Canadian platform called CommunityLEnd or FinanceIT. The point here is this: Go borrow money at a lower rate than your credit card (there are other alternatives than P2P, you can google these, just make sure the rate is lower than your credit card). Pay the card off, and go on vacation just make sure you can pay it all off eventually otherwise you'll be swimming in debt you cant pay.
I'm really going to go against the crowd here--paying it too fast could be a problem. The thing is you want them reporting that you paid the bill as agreed.  To do that you need to pay the bills--which means you need to leave the charges there to get billed for.  Paying less than the total is fine, paying as soon as they bill you but before you even get the bill is fine.
An emergency fund of $5000 seems on the low side and I would be worried about spending it down to $2000, that said you want to get out of the car loan. It sounds like you have a little extra disposible income since you think you can rebuild your emergency fund quicker than just the amount you will save from not having a car payment. One option to decrease the hit to your emergency fund is to save aggressively for a month or two to increase your emergency fund by a few hundred dollars and take on some other debt (possibly credit card). You could then pay off the new debt and replenish your emergency fund over a slightly longer period. While some financial planners dislike the idea of an emergency fund while still having high interest debt, to me I would prefer to have $1000 in credit card debt and $3000 in an emergency fund over $0 in credit card debt and $2000 in an emergency fund. Given your time course of 6 months or so to pay off the debt, you might even qualify for a 0% credit card introductory rate (or balance transfer).
"As Mr. Money Money Mustache once said: IF YOU HAVE CREDIT CARD DEBT, YOU SHOULD FEEL LIKE YOUR HAIR IS ON   FIRE Student loan debt is different than credit card debt.  Rather than having spent the money on just about anything, it was invested in improving yourself and probably your financial future.  This was probably a good decision. However, unlike most credit card debt, if you ever have to file for bankruptcy, your student loans will not be erased.  They will follow you forever. Pay your debts off as quickly as you can.  While it may be true that ""long-term return on the stock market is about 7%"", you cannot assume that this will always be the case, especially in the short term.  What if you had made this assumption in 2007? To assume that your stocks will beat a 6.4% guaranteed return over the next few years is not really investing.  It's gambling."
There is a way to get a reasonable estimate of what you still owe, and then the way to get the exact value. When the loan started they should have given you amortization table that laid out each payment including the principal, interest and balance for each payment. If there are any other fees included in the payment those also should have been detailed. Determine how may payments you have maid: did you make the first payment on day one, or the start of the next month? Was the last payment the 24th, or the next one? The table will then tell you what you owe after your most recent payment. To get the exact value call the lender. The amount grows  between payment due to the interest that is accumulating. They will need to know when the payment will arrive so they can give you the correct value. To calculate how much you will save do the following calculation: payment = monthly payment for principal and interest paymentsmade =Number of payments made = 24 paymentsremaining = Number of payments remaining = 60 - paymentsmade = 60-24 = 36 instantpayoff = number from loan company  savings = (payment * paymentsremaining ) - instantpayoff
As for what you can do, deposit the ~$3000 in an interest bearing account, and collect the interest on their money.  When they finally ask for it back, you immediately pay them, but you keep the interest earned.  Now it's in your interest for them to take as long as possible to ask for repayment and you've done nothing wrong.
Your question indicates you really don't have a good grasp on personal finance.  you might want to read a book or two.  I'd recommend attending Financial Peace University, but my buddy Joe Taxpayer would throw an egg at me for that.  Please take some sort of class. In the mean time, here is your plan:  Pay this off do not borrow more.
I like the answers others gave, if it's some substantial debt you definitely could go the bankruptcy route but it damages your future, also it's morally unethical to borrow all that money and not intend to pay. Second, if you can pay off the entire balance and clear out the 23% interest than I'd do that first. One less bill to concern yourself with. Now let's say you've been making $100 payments monthly on each card (my assumption for this examples sale) now instead of paying $100 to the remaining cards balance each month and saving the other $100, pay $200 against the remaining credit cards balance. By not taking home any money this way you are tackling the liability that is costing you money every month. Unless you have a great investment opportunity on that remaining $1000 or haven't created much of an emergency fund yet, I'd consider putting more of that money towards the debt. Gaining 0.01% on savings interest still means you're eating 25.99% in debt monthly. If you're able to I'd venture out to open a zero interest card and do a balance transfer over to that new card, there will be a minimal transfer fee but you may get some cash back out of it and also that zero interest for a year would help hold off more interest accruing while you're tackling the balance.
Two different questions: Is it better to be in debt or to pay off the debt? And: Is it better to have student debt than other debt?  Any debt needs to be paid off eventually, and any debt makes you less flexible. So if you have the choice between spending/wasting your money and paying off debt, I would recommend paying off the debt.  The other question is whether having student debt is better than having other debt. You need to look at the terms of your student debt. Pay off the debt with the worst conditions first. Loan sharks (in Britain: pay-day loans) must be paid first. Credit cards debt must go next. Then general loans. Depending on your situation, you may want some savings as well. In case you lose your job, for example. So if you have $8,000 saved and an $8,000 student loan, you might consider waiting a bit before you pay back the loan. No job + $8,000 student loan + $8,000 in the bank is better than no job + no debt + no money in the bank.
"So you are in IT, that is great news because you can earn a fabulous income.  The part time is not great, but you can use this to your advantage.  You can get another job or three to boost your income in the short term.  In the long term  you should be able to find a better paying job fairly easily.   There is one way to never deal with creditors again:  never borrow money again.  Its pretty damn simple and from the suggestions of your post you don't seem to be very good at handling credit.  This would make you fairly normal.  78% of  US households don't have $1000 saved.  How are they going to handle a brake job/broken dryer/emergency room visit?  Those things happen. Cut your lifestyle to nothing, earn money and save it.  Say you have 2000 saved up.  Then a creditor calls saying you owe 5K.  Tell me you are willing to settle for the 2K you have saved.  If they don't, hang up.  If they are willing getting it writing and pay by a method that insulates you from further charges.   Boom one out of the way and keep going.  You will be 1099'd for some income, but it is a easy way to ""earn"" extra money.   This will all work if you commit yourself to never again borrowing money."
To answer your question, the $30 and it accrues monthly if you carry the balance forward. However, don't do that. Only use your credit card on things you can immediately pay off right away. Don't pay extra money for things and don't pay for things you can't afford. As a recent college grad, I've seen way too many people have $1,000+ in credit card debt while in school. That's just nutty. If you have any other questions let me know.
"There are several ways you can get out of paying your student loans back in the USA: You become disabled and the loan is dismissed once verified by treating doctor or the Social Security Administration. You become a peace officer. You become a teacher; generally K-12, but I have heard from the DOE that teachers at state schools qualify as well. So the ""malicious"" friend B is prescribing to the theory that if one of those conditions becomes true, friend A will not have to pay back the loan. The longer you drag it out, the more chance you have to fulfill a condition. Given that 2 of these methods require a commitment, my guess is that they are thinking more along the lines of the first one, which is horrible. Financially, it makes no sense to delay paying back your loans because deferred loans are only interest-free until you graduate and are past your grace period, after which they will begin accruing interest. Unsubsidized loans accrue interest from the day you get them, only their payback is deferred until you graduate and exhaust your grace period. Anytime you ask for forbearance, you are still accruing interest and it is capitalizing into your principal — you are just given a chance to delay payback due to financial hardship, bad health, or loss of job. Therefore, at no point are you benefiting beyond the time you are in school and getting an education, still looking for a job, or dealing with health issues. In the current market, no CD, no savings account, and no investment will give you substantially more return that will offset the loss of the interest you are accruing. Even those of us in the old days getting 4.X % rates would not do this. There was a conditional consolidation offer the DOE allowed which could bring all your loans under one roof for a competitive 5.x-6.x % rate allowing you a single payment, but even then you would benefit if you had rates that were substantially higher. From a credit worthiness aspect, you are hurt by the outstanding obligation and any default along the way, so you really want to avoid that — paying off or down your loans are a good way to ensure you don't shoot yourself in the foot."
Personal finances are not intuitive for everyone, and it can be a challenge to know what to do when you haven't been taught. Congratulations on recognizing that you need to make a change. The first step that I would recommend is what you've already done: Assemble your bank statements so you can get an accurate picture of what money you currently have. Keep organized folders so you can find your bank statements when you need them. In addition to the bank statements for your checking and savings accounts, you also need to assess any debt that you have. Have you taken out any loans that need to be paid back? Do you have any credit card debt? Make a list of all your debts, and make sure that you have folders for these statements as well. Hopefully, you don't have any debts. But if you are like most people, you owe money to someone, and you may even owe more money than you currently have in your bank accounts. If you have debts, fixing this problem will be one of your goals. No matter what your debt is, you need to make sure that from now on, you don't spend more money than you take in as income. To do this, you need to make a budget. A budget is a plan for spending your money. To get started with a budget, make a list of all the income you will receive this month. Add it up, and write that amount at the top of a page. Next, you want to make a list of all the expenses you will have this month. Some of these expenses are more or less fixed: rent, utility bills, etc. Write those down first. Some of the expenses you have more control over, such as food and entertainment. Give yourself some money to spend on each of these. You may also have some larger expenses that will happen in the future, such as a tuition or insurance payment. Allocate some money to those, so that by the time that payment comes around, you will have saved enough to pay for those expenses.
First I must say that I'm not a Ramsey fan. Sometimes loans will make your financial situation significantly better. Especially if its a 0% loan. Generally, I do think that leveraging has its place, its the ab-use of loans what causes problems, not the use. Re your question - you're right in trying to first build up an emergency fund. You should have enough in it to be able to pay for yourself for at least half a year of unemployment or zero income. You only have one month. Your family member gave you money for free, which is admirable, but I'm sure there's a limit to everyone's generosity and he might not give it to you for free again, once you pay it off. Thus, you should be able to handle your future troubles on your own, and emergency fund is a crucial part of this. Pay as agreed, try not to be late, and you'll pay the loan off within 3 years. If you accumulate enough emergency fund, and you still have some extra left - pay some extra on the loan in order to pay it off early. Do make sure you take full advantage of the employer's 401k match. This has, IMHO, much higher priority than paying off the 0% loan early.
It's very simple, line up your debt in the order of interest rate, tax adjusted, and start with the highest rate.  Too simple? If knocking off the $7500 loan feels better to you than the fact that you are still paying 9% on $7500 (as part of the $20K) makes you feel bad, just pay off the $7500. I'd rather be ahead $210/yr. (A celebrity advocates the small wins promoting good feelings and encouragement. If that actually works for some, I won't criticize it here) If freeing up the $200/mo payment enables you to do something else that's beneficial, that's another story. I've written how $10,000 of student loan can keep you from qualifying for $30K or more of mortgage.  In isolation, highest rate. With the rest of the picture, other advice might be more suitable.  Welcome to Money.SE
You can play with the numbers all you like (and that's good), however, here is a different way to look at it.  The debt you have is risk. It limits your choices and eats your cash flow. Without the debt, you can invest at a much greater rate. It frees up you cash flow for all the things you might want to do, or decide in the future you might want to do. Right now is the easiest time for you to focus on debt repayment. It sounds like you are not married and have no children. It is much easier now to cut back your lifestyle and concentrate on paying off this $50k of student debt. This will get harder as your responsibility increases. Build up a small amount of cash for emergencies and put the rest at the debt. You can keep contributing to your 401k to the match if you want. This will give you 2 benefits: Patience. When you actually DO start investing, you will have a new appreciation for the money you are using. If you sacrifice to pay off $50k now, you wont look at money the same for the rest of your life.  Drive. If you see the debt as a barrier to achieving your goals, you will work harder to get out of debt.  These are all things I would tell my 23 year-old self if i could go back in time.  Good luck!
"Welcome to Money.SE. Your question is similar to a number of others. The ""How do I pay my debt down?"" and ""How do I invest extra money?"" is a bit of a continuum since there's no consensus than one should pay off the last cent of debt before investing.  Oversimplify it for me: the correct order of investing offers a good look at this. You see, Pete's answer on your question is perfectly fine, but, since you make no mention of, say, a matched 401(k), I'd suggest that any answer to a question like yours should first take a step back and evaluate the bigger picture. A dollar for dollar matched 401(k) beats paying off even an 18% credit card.  Absent any tangents, any thought of investing, saving for anything else, etc, my answer is simple, line up the debt, highest interest rate to lowest. Keep in mind the post-tax rate, i.e. a 6% student loan you can deduct, is an effective 4.5% if you are in the 25% bracket."
"Paying off your house quickly should be a #2-level priority, behind making sure you have some basic savings but definitely ahead of any investing concerns, because your house is not an investment; it's your home.  (If you're brave/foolish enough to try buying houses-as-investments in the current climate, this obviously doesn't apply to you!) This isn't a financial matter so much as an issue of basic prudence.  If something disastrous happens, (you lose your job, get in a serious car accident, your kid comes down with cancer, etc,) it will put tremendous strain on your financial resources.  If you own your home outright when this happens, it means that no matter what else might go wrong, you can't get foreclosed on and end up out on the streets, and that's worth more than any rate of return you can reasonably expect to find even in the best of times. It's a well-known investing maxim to ""never bet anything that you can't afford to lose.""  In light of that, consider this: if you have a mortgage that is not paid off, that's exactly what you're doing.  You are placing a bet against a bank that you'll remain solvent long enough to pay off the mortgage, and your home is the wager.  Mortgages may be a necessary evil with housing prices being what they are, but make no mistake, they are evil.  Get rid of yours as quickly as you can."
"Think of yourself as a business with two accounts, ""cash"" and ""net worth"". Your goal is to make money. ""Cash"" is what you need to meet your obligations. You need to pay your rent/mortgage, utilities, buy food, pay for transportation, service debt, etc. If you make $100 a month, and your obligations are $90, you're clearing $10. ""Net worth"" are assets that you own, including cash, retirement savings, investments, or even tangible goods like real property or items you collect with value. The ""pay off debt"" versus ""save money"" debate, in my opinion, is driven by two things, in this order: If you start saving too soon, you'll have a hard time getting by when your car suddenly needs a $500 repair or you need a new furnace. You need to improve your cash flow so that you actually have discretionary income. Pay off those credit cards, then start directing those old payments into savings and investments."
The definitive answer is: It Depends. What are your goals? First and foremost, you need to have at least 3 months expenses in cash or equivalent. (i.e. an investment that you can withdraw from quickly, and without penalty).  The good news is that you don't have to come up with it instantly.  Set a time frame - one year - for creating this safety net, and pay towards that goal.  This is the single most important piece of financial advice you will receive. Now determine what you need to do.  For example, you may need a car.  Compare interest rates on your student loan and the car loan.  Put your cash towards whichever is higher. If you don't need a car or other big ticket item, then you may consider sticking your surplus into the student loans.  50k at $1650 a month will be paid down in about 3 years, which might be a bit long to live the monastic lifestyle. I'd look at paying down the smallest loan first (assuming relatively similar rates), and freeing up that payment for yourself.  So if you can pay off 1650 a month, and free up $100 of that in six months, then you can reward yourself with half that surplus, and apply the other half to the next loan.   (This is different than some would suggest because you're talking about entering severe spartan mode, which is not sustainable.)   Remember that life happens.  You'll meet someone.  You'll have an accident, your brother will get sick and you'll give him some money to help out.  You've got to be prepared for these events, and for these reasons, I don't recommend living that close to the edge.  Remember, you're not in default, and you do have the option of continuing to pay the minimum for a long time.