vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
First, request that you complete a tax return. On this tax return, you will complete both the employed and self employed sections. This will give you a total income and tax liability. You will already have paid some tax via PAYE, but you will have to pay additional tax for any other income. For future years there is the option, depending on amount, to collect extra tax through PAYE to cover the other earnings. If it is likely to be the same for the next few years, this may be a better option than paying a lump sum. The tax return is now mostly online, and not too bad if your affairs are otherwise simple. The hardest part will be keeping a good record of your other earnings. Remember that you have to keep these records for seven years in case HMRC ever want to audit them, and it's a good idea to have a separate account for the income, or some other way of easily identifying it.
You actually don't have to open a business account with your bank, you can have a personal account with the bank and have your business funds go into it, whether it be from cheques or from Eftpos\Credit Card Facilities. You just have to get your customers to make the cheque out under your name (the same name used for your bank account). If you are trading as a sole trader and you trade under a name other than your own name, then officially you are supposed to register that name with Fair Trading in your state. However, if you are trading using another name and it is not registered, Fair Trading will only become aware of it if someone (usually one of your customers) makes a compliant about you, and they will then ask you to either stop using that name as your trading name or have it registered (if not already registered by someone else).
"I have 2 PayPal accounts for this purpose (with different email addresses). The first account is tied to my real email address, and has my real name, phone and home address associated with it. This account is also connected to my bank account and credit cards. For riskier transactions where I don't need physical delivery (or will accept delivery to my local post-office in cases where I don't trust the seller with my personal details) I use my secondary account, which has a secondary email address of mine, and a fake name and with a fake address, it is not connected to any external accounts. To send or receive money ""anonymously"" I first send money from my real account to my fake account (inter-account transfers are free with PayPal), and then send the money to the seller from the fake account. This is in violation of PayPal's terms of service, but I've been using this system for the past 5+ years without any issues."
I am a freelancer based in Europe and I want to tell you: - if you are a freelancer, then you INVOICE your Swizzerland based client The word salary is improper. - So your client will DEDUCE the invoice from its taxes, and NOT pay income tax on top of that invoice. Because invoice = expense.  So, ONLY YOU pay income tax in India. Your client pays no tax at all, not in India, not in Swizzerland. As you are a freelancer and not employee, the company has no obligation to pay employer taxes for you. A company  has financial benefits from working with a freelancer.
Would opening a second credit card contribute in any meaningful way to my credit mix or no, since it's the same type of credit? Yes, multiple lines of credit help your credit score, even if they are all credit cards. There are experts on both sides of this argument though. For example, Fico says that you shouldn't open a new credit card just for the credit boost, while NerdWallet cautiously recommends it. My recommendation is that if you're disciplined with your credit spending, it will help a little. If yes, is it worth it to take the hit to my average account age sooner rather than later by opening a new credit card? If you want to build up your number of credit lines, do so well before you need to use your credit to take out a loan. Not only will your credit score take a hit from the average age dropping, but you'll also have a hard pull on your credit report. As Fixed Point points out, though, you will see a larger improvement to your credit score by adding another type of credit, such as a home loan, to your credit mix. If you are already limited your credit utilization to 10%-30% then you probably won't be able to reach your goal by just adding a credit card.
Almost any financial institution has the technical ability to do this (simply called sweeps, auto sweeps, or deposit sweeps); the issue you face is finding an institution that is willing to do it for you.  I think you will have the most luck at your primary financial institution where you currently keep the majority of your banking relationship.  You will have better luck at small-town banks and credit unions.  The mega banks will likely not waver from their established policies. Deposit sweeps are common for business accounts.  They are usually tied to a savings account, which is usually held within the same institution, however this is not a requirement.  The sweep can send money to any US bank if you can provide the routing number and account number.  The sweep will establish a peg balance, or floor balance, on the checking account.  At the end of the day, any amount above the peg is swept into the savings account automatically. I doubt you will find what you’re asking for within an online banking system.  You will likely have to go into a branch and speak with a personal banker.  Explain to them you want to establish a sweep on your checking account and want to send the funds to another financial institution.  You will have better luck asking for a peg of $100, or some other small amount.  They may not take your request seriously if you want to completely empty the checking account to zero.
"I sent myself an Tangerine email money transfer. They sent me an email which took me to a website. After I entered the secret answer, they asked me for the destination bank account's details. They asked me to enter the transit number once, the institution number once, and the account number twice. They also showed a bold warning message: ""Please ensure that the details of your Canadian Bank Account (account number and bank information) are entered correctly."" Asking for the account number twice isn't a perfect safeguard, but it's better than nothing. In some countries, bank account numbers include a ""check digit"" for typo prevention, but I was unable to find any evidence online that this is true in Canada. Tangerine's system isn't 100% mistake-proof, but it's good enough that I think I'm going to use it."
Since a life cycle fund is available, it can be a good choice for that account. But make sure fees aren't out of hand. If much lower-cost equity and bond funds are available, consider them instead. Let's say you had another smaller account that you were unable to consolidate into your main account. (e.g. a Traditional IRA vs. your Roth, and you didn't necessarily want to convert it.) Even if that account had access to a wide variety of funds, it still might not be worth the added hassle or trading costs of owning and rebalancing multiple funds inside the smaller account. There, perhaps, the life cycle fund can help you out, while you use your own strategy in your main account. Finally, let's assume you had a single main account and you buy partially into the idea of a life cycle fund and you find a great one with low fees. Except: you want a bit of something else in your portfolio not provided by the life cycle fund, e.g. some more emerging markets, international, or commodity stock exposure. (Is this one reason you're doing it yourself?) In that case, where the life cycle fund doesn't quite have everything you want, you could still use it for the bulk of the portfolio (e.g. 85-95%) and then select one or two specific additional ETFs to complement it. Just make sure you factor in those additional components into the overall equity weighting and adjust your life cycle fund choice accordingly (e.g. perhaps go more conservative in the life cycle, to compensate.) I hope that helps! Additional References:"
It makes no difference (to the UK) what country a bank account is in.  What matters is whether you are resident in the UK or not while employed locally in a foreign country.  You're taxed on where you are tax resident (which could be either country, both, or neither), not where the money is earned or banked.  You can assume, with modern exchange of information agreements, that all money you put in bank accounts anywhere in the world will eventually be known to the UK authorities. The rules for when you are a UK tax resident changed recently, there is now a statutory test for residence (pdf).  The rules are complex, but in general if you are outside the UK for less than one full tax year you're still resident, and in many cases where you're gone longer than that you may still be, depending on the length of your trips back to the UK and the ties you have there. So a 6-month winter job in Thailand teaching English as a foreign language will be subject to UK tax if you come back after, even if you leave all the money there or in a third country. If you pay local tax as well there are agreements between countries to avoid double taxation, but these do vary.  What you do about National Insurance payments while gone for a short time is another complex area.
I don't think there could be a better response, thank you. This example is actually quite close to my own. After lots of crappy jobs and bad experiences finding jobs, I knew there was a better way to find a job you really fit into, but having no business experience outside of freelancing, starting it as a hobby seemed like a good idea. I actually work in IT by trade.  This is something I'm very passionate about, and I hope I can use it to make a difference in someone's life.  Your site looks amazing. It's look great and I'm happy for you.
There is nothing conceptually wrong with it.  If you like it that way, go ahead. The only thing to watch out for is bank policies that effectively penalize having many small accounts.  For instance, some banks charge you a fee for checking accounts with a balance below a certain minimum, but will waive the fees for accounts with a higher balance.  You may be able to avoid such fees by judicious management of your funds (or by switching to a different bank), but it's something to be aware of.  (The interest rates on savings accounts also often vary with the balance, making many small balances less efficient than one big balance.  However, right now, at least in the US, interest rates on savings accounts are so low that the difference here is likely to be minimal.)
If you can live with managing the individual category amounts yourself, this is trivial. Just set up a spreadsheet listing each category (and a column for the total amount of money in the account), adding or subtracting as you deposit or withdraw money to the account. To the bank it will be just one (physical) account, but to you, it can be any number of (accounting asset) accounts. You can choose to keep a history, or not. It's all up to how complex you want to make it. It doesn't even have to be a spreadsheet - you can just as well do this on paper if you prefer that. But the computer makes it easier. I imagine most personal finance software will help you, too; I know GnuCash can be coaxed into doing this with only a bit of creativity, and it almost certainly isn't the only one. I do this myself and it works very well. I don't know but imagine that companies do it all the time: there is no reason why there must be a one-to-one relationship between bank accounts and accounting asset accounts, and in fact, doing so would probably quickly become impractical.
"Note: Specific to UK. I can't recommend anything higher than Crunch - they act as your accountant and have their own cloud accounting software, so it's more expensive than just using cloud accounting software, but if you use an accountant to do your year-end anyway, then they cost about the same as using cloud accounting software plus using an accountant to do your year-end. The thing I like (as a software development contractor) is that I don't have to know or worry about different ledger accounts, or journal entries, or any of the other weird accounting things, etc. Most cloud accounting software claim to simplify accounting ""so that you can concentrate on running your business"" whereas the reality is that you still have to spend ages learning how to be an accountant just to fill it in correctly. With Crunch that's actually true, it does actually make it simple. I've used Crunch, Sage, and Xero, so my sample-set isn't very big - just thought I'd share my experiences. If you value your time and get annoyed by having to create multiple internal transfers between different ledgers just to do something simple, it's for you. This probably sounds like a sales pitch, but I have nothing to do with them and nothing to gain by recommending them. The only reason I'm so passionate is I started a new business to do an online shop and tried to use Crunch, but they don't do retail businesses. Only contractors/freelancers or simple service-based businesses (their software is geared up specifically for that which I guess is why it's more simple than the others). Anyway, so now I'm annoyed at having to use the more complicated ones."
Mods decided to leave it here, so I'll summarize some of my answers on this question given @OnStartups. You can find them here, here and here. Your options are : You and your business are one and the same. You report your income and expenses for taxes on a Schedule C (for each sole proprietorship a separate schedule), and taxed at your personal rates. There's no liability protection or legal separation between you and your business, and you don't need to have any bureaucratic overhead of managing an entity. You can use your own bank account and have checks written to you directly. You can register for DBA if you want a store-front name to be different from your own name. Depending on State, can cost a lot or close to nothing. Provides certain liability protection (depending on State, single-member and multi-member LLC's may have different liability protections). You can chose to be taxed as either a sole-proprietor (partnership, for multi-member) or as a corporation. You have to separate your activities, have a separate bank account, and some minimal bureaucracy is required to maintain the entity. Benefits include the limited liability, relatively easy to add partners to the business or sell it as a whole, and provides for separation of your personal and business finances. Drawbacks - bureaucracy, additional fees and taxes (especially in CA), and separation of assets. Corporation is an entirely separate entity from yourself, files its own tax returns, has separate bank accounts and is run by the board of directors (which in some cases may require more than 1 person to be on the board, check your state laws on that). As an officer of the corporation you'll have to pay salary to yourself. S-Corp has the benefit of pass-through taxation, C-Corp doesn't and has double taxation. Benefits - liability protection, can sell shares to investors, legally distinct entity. Disadvantages - have to deal with payroll, additional accounting, significant bureaucracy and additional layer of taxes for C-Corp (double taxation). Selling corporate assets is always a taxable event (although in your case it is probably not of an importance).
The details of any bank accounts are irrelevant. If you're self-employed, you submit your tax return to HMRC at some point after the end of tax year. HMRC then tell you how much tax you owe and when payment is due, and you then pay it. HMRC don't have access to your bank accounts. Note that interest earned on a bank account is treated as taxable income, and banks normally automatically pay the tax due on your behalf, at the basic rate of 20%. If you're self-employed, you need to declare this income on your tax return. And in the case of a joint account, that interest is treated as being split equally.
Update: it looks like this may no longer be a requirement.  I was able to withdraw from TreasuryDirect into another bank account without issue.
"Your debits and credits are perfect. Now, it comes down to a choice of how you want your accounts organized, financially speaking. In terms of taxes, it's recommended you keep a separate set of books just like a corporation and account for them strictly according to law. It's best not to credit phone expenses since it will no longer show on your net reports.  A better alternative would be ""Phone reimbursement"".  With that, you can not only see if you've been compensated but also how much you're personally managing these expenses by checking the annual ""Phone expense"" account. This is all up to personal preference, but so long as you're properly balancing your accounts, you can introduce any level of resolution you wish.  I prefer total resolution when it comes to financial accounting. Also, it is not good practice to debit away ""Salary"".  The net of this account will be lower and distorted.  An expense reimbursement is not salary anyways, so the proper bookings will follow below. Finally, if GnuCash is calling ""Salary"" an income account, this is unfortunate.  The proper label would be ""revenue"" since ""income"" is a net account of expenses from revenue in the income identity. Entries With this, your books will become clearer: your cash assets will remain as clear as you had organized them, but now your income statement will provide higher resolution."
"I'm no accounting expert, but I've never heard of anyone using a separate account to track outstanding checks.  Instead, the software I use (GnuCash) uses a ""reconciled"" flag on each transaction.  This has 3 states:  n: new transaction (the bank doesn't know about it yet), c: cleared transaction (the bank deducted the money), and y: reconciled transaction (the transaction has appeared on a bank statement). The account status line includes a Cleared balance (which should be how much is in your bank account right now), a Reconciled balance (which is how much your last bank statement said you had), and a Present balance (which is how much you'll have after your outstanding checks clear). I believe most accounting packages have a similar feature."
The existing account that her employer set up is probably not a Spousal RRSP, so for you to contribute your money to her RRSP you'd have to create a new account somewhere - could be with the same financial institution or somewhere else. But if you've got a joint bank account, the distinction between your money and her money becomes blurred. You're basically allowed to say the $10000 is her money as long as you can trace the funds back to amounts that she added (her paycheques). So in that case you could just use her existing RRSP if you want to. There may be other reasons to consider an alternate account, such as having more flexibility or lower costs for investing your contributions. Often the plans that employers offer have only a small selection of mutual funds with medium to high MER costs. Since you're planning to withdraw for the HBP soon, this probably doesn't matter that much yet, but as you start re-contributing to replace what you took out, that money will probably not get touched until retirement and therefore you would want to invest it more efficiently. For that, I recommend you take a look at the model portfolios at Canadian Couch Potato, as Tangerine, TD e-Series, or buying ETFs through a discount broker are usually the lowest cost methods of growing your retirement portfolio.
You can only put money into one cash ISA and one stocks and shares ISA. But in different years, you could choose to save with different managers. There are no limits on the number of different ISAs you can hold over time. However, in practice, if you transfer mid-year from Provider A to Provider B, Provider B has no way of telling whether you have already put money in to the ISA with Provider A that year or not, so you will be able to put more money in. I believe that ISA providers do report their subscriptions back to HMRC so they can check for multiple subscriptions (over the limit) in one tax year; but in the past, I have done exactly what you describe and it has never been picked up in any way or caused any problem at all. As long as you stick to total subscriptions within the limit, I'd guess you're unlikely to encounter a problem. (Of course I am not a financial advisor so you should take what I say with the same pinch of salt as you would take any other random advice from the internet).
"I also talked to the IRS yesterday to get a few of my own questions answered, and I asked a few of these while I was at it (as I didn't know the answers for sure either, even after reading IRS pub 969). To answer your specific questions: I would, however, like to confirm a few things: You are allowed to have multiple HSA accounts. My company forces me to   use a specific bank if they are going to be make contributions.   However, I would like to move this money to a higher-risk/higher-yield   account. You are allowed to withdraw money to reimburse any past payments that   were made after the HSA is opened – perhaps years later. This would   allow me to accumulate interest on the money and then get reimbursed   later. You can transfer money between HSAs, etc. and the money will still   cover any payments since the first HSA was opened? I am currently unmarried and without children. An HSA can be made to   pay for any dependent or spouse medical bills as well. I am currently   signed up with an HSA that is marked as ""individual"" or something. I   assume that once I get married, I should have no issues using this   money from the past on my wife and kids? Note that I am not a certified tax professional and you should not rely on this information for your own tax decisions, but should investigate or contact the IRS yourself."
"As anecdotal experience, we have a credit account in my name as offered by bank's marketing before I could qualify by common rules for newcomers (I have an account there for years so they knew my history and reliability dynamics I guess), and my wife is subscribed as a secondary user to the same credit account with a separate card. So we share the same limits (e.g. max month usage/overdraft) and benefits (bank's discounts and bonuses when usage passes certain thresholds - and it's easier to gain these points together than alone) so in the end maintenance of the card costs zero or close to that on most months, while the card is in a program to get discounts from hundreds of shops and even offers a free or discounted airport lounge access in some places :) But the bonus program is just that - benefits come and go as global economics changes; e.g. we had free car assistance available for a couple of years but it is gone since last tariff update. Generally it is beneficial for us to do all transactions including rent etc. via these two credit cards to the same account, and then recharge its overdraft as salaries come in - we have an ""up to 50 days"" cooloff period (till 20th of next calendar month) with no penalties on having taken the loans - but if we ever did overstretch that, then tens of yearly percents would kick in. Using the card(s) for daily ops, there is a play on building up the credit history as well: while we don't really need the loans to get from month to month, it helps build an image in the face of credit organizations, which can help secure e.g. favorable mortgage rates (and other contract conditions) which are out of pocket money range :) I'd say it is not only a ""we against the system"" sort of game though, as it sort of trains our own financial discipline - every month we have (a chance) to go over our spendings to see what we did, and so we more regularly think about it in the end - so the bank probably benefits from dealing with more-educated less-random customers when it comes to the bigger loans. Regarding internet, we tend to trust more to a debit card which we populate with pocket money sufficient for upcoming or already placed (blocked) transactions.