vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"Note that many credit unions participate in a ""branch exchange"" program, which lets you access you CU's accounts and services thru the offices of the others. My CU is two states away,  but there has been only one case where I felt a need to drive back there. Find out if your has joined this network, and encourage them to do so if they haven't yet. It makes credit unions fully competitive with interstate banks.  The shared-branch CU locations may not be maximally convenient, but more keep joining, and the most common transactions can be done by mail or ATM anyway. The biggest advantages of a local CU or bank are that they know the local rules for mortgages, and they may have safe deposit boxes for rent.  That, and having a place to unload the pocket change that piles up, are why I've got an account with a small local bank a few blocks from my house as well. Though I keep thinking about joining my alma mater's credit union, and will if the ever get on the shared-branch system."
It probably doesn't matter since your credit and your checking are at the same institution, but I don't like to let my credit auto draft my checking.  I always do it the other way around (and keep them at different places) I feel like there is more control when my money is gone that way.
Typically 'current' means the account from which you do your day-to-day banking (also called 'checking') and 'savings' is an interest earning account, from which you might occasionally take money. However...you can actually attach these labels (for ATM purposes) to any account you want. They don't have to be your actual checking or savings accounts.  I have 'current' attached to my personal account and 'savings' on the account I hold jointly with my wife. They are just labels you attach to different accounts.
This very much depends how you use that second line of credit and what your current credit is. There are of course many more combinations buy you can probably infer the impact based on these cases.   Your credit score is based on your likely hood of being profitable to a creditor should they issue you credit. This is based on your history of your ability to manage your credit.  Having more credit and managing it well shows that you have a history of being responsible with greater sums of money available.  If you use the card responsibly now then you are more likely to continue that trend than someone with a history of irresponsibility.  Having a line but not using it is not a good thing.  It costs the creditor money for you to have an account.  If you never use that account then you are not showing that you can use the account responsibly so if you are just going to throw the card in a safe and never access it then you are better off not getting the card in the first place.
Based on your question, I am going to assume your criterion are: Based on these, I believe you'd be interested in a different savings account, a CD, or money market account. Savings account can get you up to 1.3% and money market accounts can get up to 1.5%.  CDs can get you a little more, but they're a little trickier. For example, a 5 year CD could get up to 2%. However, now you're money is locked away for the next few years, so this is not a good option if this money is your emergency fund or you want to use it soon. Also, if interest rates increase then your money market and savings accounts' interest rates will increase but your CD's interest rate misses out. Conversely, if interest rates drop, you're still locked into a higher rate.
Currently the credit history are not International but are local. Many countries don't have a concept of credit history yet.   Having said that, if you are moving to US, depending on your history in your country, you can ask the same bank to provide you with a card and then start building history. For example in India I had a card with Citi Bank and when I moved to US for a short period, I was given a card based on my India Card, with equivalent credit in USD. If you are moving often internationally, it would make sense to Bank with a leading bank that provide services in geographies of your interest [Citi, HSBC, etc] and then in a new country approach these institutions to get you some starting credit for you to build a history.
Nothing happens. A bank is a business; your relationship with the bank doesn't change because your visa or immigration status changes. Money held in the account is still held in the account. Interest paid on the account is still taxable. And so on. If the account is inactive long enough, abandoned account rules may apply, but that still has nothing to do with your status.
Has the monitoring stopped now that you are at a new bank?   Presumably it has. If it has stopped, then let it go.  Its your mom and while the relationship might be somewhat dysfunctional, it is the only mother relationship you have.  Do you really want her criminally prosecuted?  She may have done you a favor by pointing out the security loop holes present in your old bank.  Thanks mom!
Any large bank that you trust would be happy to help you by holding the money for you.  One of the big advantages with a Swiss bank account is privacy. The names of lottery winners are public, so this advantage would not mean much to you. Swiss banks are generally very large, secure, and capable of handling large amounts of money, however, so if Switzerland isn't too inconvenient for you, it's worth considering.  You won't want to keep all of it in a bank account for long; the majority of it should be invested. It would definitely be worth paying for a trusted financial advisor to guide you through that.  Avoid the urge to swim in a pile of gold coins.
WRONG. Assuming each account has the same investment option the rate of return is not dependent on the initial amount of money in the account, but rather the allocation amongst said investment. Suppose based on your investment allocation in either account you gain 10% interest over the year.  In the first scenario your ending balance will be (30000+4800)*1.10 = $38,280.  In the second scenario your first account will be worth 30000*1.10 = $33,000, and the second account will be worth 4800*1.10 = 5280, for a total of 33000+5280 = $38,280.
Well technically the Bank in Europe does not care about the Beneficiary Account Number [i.e. your Account number in Canada]. Use the format that is most commonly used in Canada. Generally if you quote with Bank/Branch identifiers it would be better.
Thereby, a bank does not need to physically transfer money from one physical bank building to another - as they have huge loads of cash stashed in central depositories, between which they can now exchange money as compensation for cheques and electronic transfers. So, behind the scene of the electronic world, there are still physical cash being moved around, deep under the ground, in such vaults. I hope this has given you a little bit of confidence in the ""modern times"". If you have further questions, you are welcome. These were my 50 cents :-). My background is in software development, where I have worked on banking systems for more than 10 years, making banking systems, as part of huge teams, working for the largest banks in the world."
The main reason people go with lower interest accounts is for convenience of having the money in the same institution with other accounts (like checking, auto loans, credit cards, etc.) with their local bank. These online savings accounts are regulated by law to only allow 6 transfers out per month, so for people that need to make withdrawals more frequently, that can also be a factor. If someone has an account like this that is not part of their normal checking account, it can also be inconvenient to wait for an ACH to complete overnight before the funds are available in their main accounts. I certainly use a higher yielding account for my very short-term liquid savings.
Additionally, it used to be the case that savings accounts would have a noticeably higher interest than checking accounts (if the checking account paid any at all).  So you would attempt to maximize your cash working for you by putting as much as you could into the savings account and then only transferring out what you needed to cover bills, etc into the checking account.
You can always cancel the card and close this account. Consider switching to a bank that has better customer service. Closing accounts typically gets a lot of attention and it's fairly likely they will contact you to reconsider and so you'll have a chance to air your grievances.  Whether they have anything to offer that would cause you to stay is for you to decide.
Something with an FDIC guarentee, so a bank. With an emergency fund, I think the 'return of capital' is more important than the 'return on the capital', so I'm fine with putting it in a standard savings account in a local bank(not an internet account) even if it pays next to nothing. The beauty is that since the bank is local, you can walk in and withdraw it all during any weekday.
The bank I work with would be more inclined to expand an existing HELOC rather than write a new one. I think that would be your best bet if you decide to continue borrowing against your home. Consider that your own income would have to support the repayment of these larger homes. If it is, why didn't you buy a larger home to begin with? As far as increasing the appraisal, you don't usually get one dollar of increased appraisal for each dollar you spend on improvements unless you have a rundown house in a nice neighborhood; part of the appraisal comes from a comparison with the appraisals of the other homes nearby. Eventually you get close enough to par with the other houses that anyone looking for something more expensive will often choose a different neighborhood entirely. Update: To your edit that mentions the original lender will cap the amount you can borrow, you can take additional secondary mortgages/HELOCs, but the interest rate is usually higher because it is not the first mortgage. I don't generally recommend it, but the option is there.
If your country of residence is going to be Germany, it is advisable to move money to Germany at the earliest opportunity. It is hard to predict what will happen in future, i.e. whether Reais will rise or fall compared to Euro. The question of whether to leave the funds in Brazil or not, should be looked at: If you had money in Euro, would you have moved it to Brazil or kept it in Germany?
You will probably not be able to figure out the bank from the account number. You can check for your name on registries of abandoned bank accounts or unclaimed money, but without more information, you don't have a lot of options.
There is very little effect whatsoever of having a joint bank account--positive or negative. Positive effects: It would be very easy to send your mother money...she can just take it out of the account.  If you passed away she could get the money without having to use the legal system (or vice versa). This latter effect is why I have a bunch of joint accounts with my wife...if either of us died I wouldn't want getting access to our money to be an additional hassle. Negative effects: She is able to access money in that account without your consen, which you have pointed out is not going to happen.  The case I'm thinking of would be something like a tax lien against her.  A government agency might choose to pull money out of that joint account.  That would be a downside for you. If we were discussing credit cards, a loan, or a line of credit, there would be a number of legal and credit-rating effects from joint ownership.  Not so much with checking accounts.
They represent two distict payment processing mechanisms that just happen to be available on one product. Rather like having dvi and hdmi on you laptop. Your account number and sort code relates to the bank account. Your long number, expiry and ccv relate to the card. It is perfectly possible and not uncommon to have two different cards on the same account, which would have their own card numbers etc. The BACS, CHAPS, DirectDebit and FasterPayments systems use the account numbers.  These transactions are practically irreversible and work through the interbank transfer system and should be considered 'direct money transfers' - electronic cash. The long digits are used by Mastercard, Visa, AmEx etc and go through their own payment systems.  These payments are 'indirect' and may or may not be reversible as the private payment network (visa etc) has some accountability. They work like electronic cheques. This is why debit card transactions can cause you to go overdrawn - you are writing a promise to pay from an account.  It is up to the bank to block the card if you have no money, vs a CHAPS payment that checks the money is there before moving it. It is easier (but still hard) to recover money lost through Visa fraud than BACS. Credit cards have only the long number etc. While savings accounts (non-checking accounts) have only account numbers. Depending on where you are different laws will likely cover debit card vs money transfer payments.  In the UK Direct debit guarantee is the most common protection on the BACS system, while standing orders and faster payments give you little legal power.  Debit cards will give you some protection because the payment system stands between you and the bank account, so if you didn't make the transaction you should be able to reclaim the money ('card not present fraud').  If you did make the transaction but the vendor failed to supply or goods were faulty then a Chargeback system exists where you may also be able to reclaim.  A bank transfer you make is irrecoverable and refund can only be claimed through court for faulty goods.
"My wife and I maintain seperate accounts. We have the bills split between us so that certain bills are paid by one of us, and other bills by the other. This is not a perfect 50/50 split as we don't make the same amount of money, but comparable enough that neither feels like they're doing all the bills alone. Our investments are similar. That means we each have a pool of money that we can spend on toys or entertainment as we see fit without overspending. Once my bills are paid and my savings are paid for the month, if I want to go buy some DVDs and my wife wants to buy a new lens for the camera, we don't have to agree. We just use our own money and do it. For us that's led to minimal friction or arguments over what to spend money on, simply because we aren't using the same pool. Getting it work requires getting the split right AND having the mindset that the other person is just as entitled to spend their share of the money as you are to spend yours. It really helps to eliminate issues where she spent money that I expected to be able to spend before I could, which can happen in a joint account. (We have no joint accounts, only things like the mortgage are in both our names.) I've been told by more then one person that how we're doing it is ""wrong"", but it works a lot better for us then trying to combine finances ever did. I think it also helps that we're younger, and this seems far less common amongst older couples."
I've been hearing storied from Germans that this is happening in Germany, too, but at the bank level. All anecdotal, people I've met telling me their personal stories, but they follow the same pattern. Go to the bank, try to take out a few grand for a vacation or large purchase, bank tells them they can't have that much and that they just have to do with less, even if the account balance covers the withdrawal.
TBH I been with Wells Fargo since I was 17. It was my very first account and I still use it till this day. It's one of my only checking account. I never had a single problems with them. No fees or anything.  It just sucks to hear a lot of people are having problems with WF.  I guess I am lucky one who never had a problem with them.
I switched to a credit union for a year and the only complaint that I had was that the service was absolutely horrible when compared with my previous bank. Flow time in the drive through and help when going inside were pretty bad. The credit union was UFCU, has anyone else experienced this and switched back to their old bank?  I realize that many people can do almost all of their banking online, and that credit unions probably benefit those people. But, for those that need to go to the bank several times a month I wouldn't recommend it. I switched back for this reason.
"First, there are not necessarily two accounts involved.  Usually the receiving party can take the check to the bank on which it is drawn and receive cash.  In this case, there is only one bank, it can look to see that the account on which the check is drawn has sufficient funds, and make an (essentially irrevocable) decision to pay the bearer.  (Essentially irrevocable precisely because the bearer did not necessarily have to present account information.) The more usual case is that the receiving party deposits the check into an account at their own bank.  The receiving party's bank then (directly or indirectly - in the US via the Federal Reserve) presents the check to the paying party's bank.  At that point if the there are insufficient funds, the check ""bounces"" and the receiving party's account will be debited.  The receiving party's bank knows that account number because, in this case, the receiving party is a customer of the bank.  This is why funds from check deposits are typically not available for immediate withdrawal."
I wanted to know how safe is such investment with online banks vis-a-vis regular banks? As far as I know, neither money market accounts nor savings accounts have any investment risk (within reason) since both are insured by the FDIC. Note that this is not necessarily the case with money market funds. is their any downside to such investments? Yes, there are a few. I believe the two biggest ones  are:
"The bank will make this even more confusing because they use the terms from their own perspective. From the bank's perspective  (printed on your statements) credit: Money into your account  (increases the bank's liabilities) debit: Money out of your account  (decrease bank liabilities) From your perspective: It depends on the nature of the transfer of money, but here are the most common for a personal account. Income into your account: Credit Expenses out of your account: Debit Payment on a loan made for an asset (house/car): Credit for the loan account, debit for the equity account for the car/house/etc. Yes, it's complicated. Neither credits nor debits are always a + or -. That's why I agree with the advice of the others here that double-entry accounting is overkill for your personal finances. Note: I simplified the above examples for the purpose of clarity. Technically every transaction in double entry accounting includes both a credit and a debit (hence the ""double"" in the name). In fact, sometimes a transaction involves more than one credit or debit, but always at least one of each. Also, this is for EACH party. So any transaction between you and your bank involves at least FOUR debits and/or credits when all involved are considered."
Why is OP still using BoA?  I got a large check when my grandfather died, my credit union told me that there'd be a delay because it was so large.  I said no problem.  Then a lady called me later that day to make sure I didn't need some of the money immediately.  I again demurred, but they really went the extra mile.  Why?  Because local credit unions actually give a shit about their customers.  Anyone who uses BoA for banking gets what they deserve.  How many more stories do you need to read?
from what I learnt in au and limited to au banking system ( very much like other western countries), banks settle their transfers ( inter banks) 4pm afternoon. Those transactions are like everyday between accounts, person to person, person to vendor(not credit cards), vendors  to vendors( small businesses) etc. as for large transactions banks use check accounts( yes banks themselves have check account for each other). Check accounts are settled in three business days( ex public holidays). When large business deal with large business, they use debentures and corporate bonds which is a business IOU and using banks as mediate to settle. IOUs have up to 60 days settle periods.  Some complications unique to au banking system.  There are only 4 large banks in au and they and their subsidiaries own 99% of the assets collectively. What gets more interesting is large 4 banks owns each other. Each banks holds significant amount shares of other banks. They are like 4 brothers with different surnames. All of it is to minimise risk and share profit.
Also, unless I missed it and someone already mentioned it, do keep in mind the impact of these credit cards balances on your credit score. Over roughly 75% usage on a given credit account reflects badly on your score and has a pretty large impact on how your worthiness is calculated. It gives the impression that you are a person that lives month to month on cards, etc. If you could get both cards down to reasonable balances to where you could begin paying on them regularly and work them down over time, that will not only look incredible for your credit report but also immediately begin making your credit worthiness begin to raise due to the fact that you will not have accounts that (I'm assuming here) are at very high usage (over 75% of your total limit.) If you have to get one card knocked out just to get breathing room, and you're boxed in here -- or honestly even if the mental stress is causing you incredible hardship day to day, then I suppose blow one card out of the water, reassess and start getting to work on that second card. I hope this helped, I'm no expert, but I have had every kind of luck with credit cards and accounts you could think of, so I can only give my experience from the rubber-meets-the-road perspective. Good luck!
I never understood why anyone would overdraft their checking account, until a conversation with a bank teller recently who told me that most young folks these days don't bother to balance their checkbooks anymore or to even bother with a checkbook at all -- they just check their available balance to see how much is in their checking account (totally ignoring any checks or other charges that may have been made against their account but have not yet been debited).        It's hard to believe that young people can be that stupid, but apparently some are.
Bank of America is the worst. Once I had a joint account with another individual that I had funded out of my account to make payroll.   When I found out that he had screwed two other people by stealing the payroll money I decided to disburse it myself and transferred it back to my corporate account on which I was the only signer.  He went back to the bank and effected a withdrawal from my account to the tune of tens of thousands of dollars, put the money in the joint account and removed me as a signer.   The bank wouldn't give me my money back and I never collected from him.  Another time I tried to close my sons' accounts which were in inactive status.  Every day for a week they told me they could not close the account until it was active, but they were working on making it active.  Chase could do this in a minute.  I finally went to a branch and loudly informed the manager that maybe the bank was insolvent and that I should call the FDIC to see why they won't release my money.  He wanted to take me into his office.  I told him loudly, I know all about DDAs, Savings and CDs, I have run deposit operations for a major bank and wrote software to process them.  Just put a hold on the account, write me two cashiers check and offset them with a suspense voucher.  You do know how to write a suspense voucher don't you? It's just a general ledger entry to a suspense account.  Well he was so embarassed he would do anything to get me out of the branch and gave me the cashier's checks.  Fuck B of A.