vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
NEVER combine the negotiations for trade-in of an old car and purchase of a new one (and/or financing), if you can avoid doing so. Dealers are very good at trading off one against the other to increase their total profit, and it's harder for you to walk away when you have to discard the whole thing. These are separate transactions, each of which can be done with other parties.  Treat them as such.
20% is almost certainly too high. I agree with 2%, as a very rough rule. It will vary significantly depending on the industry. I generally calculate an average of the previous 2-3 years working capital, and deduct that from cash. Working capital is Current Assets less Current Liabilities. Current Assets is comprised of cash, prepaid expenses, and significantly, accounts receivable. This means that CA is likely to be much higher than just cash, which leaves more excess cash after liabilities are deducted. Which reduces EV, which makes the EV/EBITDA ratio look even more pricey, as Dimitri noted. But a balance sheet is just a snapshot of the final day of the quarter. As such, and because of seasonal effects, it's critical to smooth this by averaging several periods. After calculating this for a few companies, compare to revenue. Is it close to 2%?
I think if there were evidence that the company was overvalued there would be a rather large correction.  The muted response is nothing more than a sigh of relief from the market.  The task that Tesla has to complete to maintain its valuation is staggering.
In the cool mornings I use very little battery energy, but you are absolutely on to something with the AC, bc I put a pretty big dent in my battery during those hot late afternoon drives home. That adds up for sure.
In many (most?) cases, luxury cars are leased rather than purchased, so the payments on even an expensive car might not be as high as you'd expect. For simplicity, take a $100,000 car. If you were to buy that in cash or do a standard five-year auto loan, that would be incredibly expensive for all but the wealthiest of people. But a lease is different. When you lease a car, you are financing the car's depreciation over the lease term. So, let's suppose that you're signing up for a three-year lease. The car manufacturer will make an estimate of what that car will be worth when you bring it back in three years (this is called the residual value). If this number is $80,000, that means the lessee is only financing the $20,000 difference between the car's price and its residual value after three years - rather than the full $100,000 MSRP. At the end of the lease, he or she just turns the car back in. Luxury cars are actually especially amenable to leasing because they have excellent brand power - just because of the name on the hood, there are many people who would be happy to pay a lot for a three-year-old Mercedes or BMW. With a mid- or low-range car, the brand is not as powerful and used cars consequentially have a lower residual value (as a percentage of the MSRP) than luxury cars. So, don't look at an $80,000 luxury car and assume that the owner has paying for the entire $80,000.
@MichaelBorgwardt gave an excellent answer. Let me add a little analogy here that might help. Suppose you bought a car from Joe's Auto Sales. You pay your money, do all the paperwork, and drive your car home. The next day Joe's goes bankrupt. What affect does that have on your ownership rights to your car? The answer is, Absolutely none. Same thing with stocks and a stock exchange. A stock exchange is basically just a store where you can buy stock. Once you buy it, it's yours. That said, there could potentially be a problem with record keeping. If you bought a car from Joe's Auto Sales, and Joe went out of business before sending the registration paperwork to the state, you might find that the state has no record that you legally own the car and you could have difficulty proving it. Likewise if a stock exchange went out of business without getting all their records properly updated, their might be an issue. Actually I think the bigger concern here for most folks would be their broker and not the stock exchange, as your broker is the one who keeps the records of what stocks you own long term. In practice, though, most companies are responsible enough to clean up their paperwork properly when they go out of business, and if they don't, a successor company or government regulators or someone will try to clean it all up.
If you Mini is still in good shape and doesn't have a lot of miles, then they may try to resell it on their lot, for which they could offer you closer to personal-sale price than trade-in. How many 2007's are for sale in your area? How much are they selling for? I did sell them a truck back in 2005 and received $200 more than KBB valued it for, but it was in great shape, only a couple of years old, relatively low mileage, and it was in high demand. God bless the South and their love for trucks! I ended up selling my Pontiac to another local car dealership. They offered me $5,300 (after negotiating, leaving the dealership, then negotiating more over the phone). It took me a day and a half and really very little effort. I have several friends that have gone through the same thing with selling cars, and all have had similar luck going to other dealerships, where prices can be negotiated, rather than CarMax. CarMax has no incentive to ""settle"" or forgive your loan. If you really want to pay it off, save up what you believe the difference will be, then shop your car around the local dealerships and get prices for your Mini. Remember that dealers have to turn a profit, so be reasonable with your negotiation. If you can find comparable vehicles in your area listed for $X,000 then knock $1,500 off that price and tell the dealerships that's what you want."
A loan that does not begin with **at least a 20% deposit** and run through a term of **no longer than 48 months** is the world's way of telling you that *you can't afford this vehicle*.  Consumer-driven cars are rapidly depreciating assets. Attenuating the loan to 70 months or longer means that payments will not keep up with normal depreciation, thus trapping the buyer in an upside down loan for the entire term.
"This is Saudi =) IDK local laws for the bid - but we don't include an anti-trust rep &amp; warranty in our boilerplate. However, my org is not purely public and our RFP's don't have economy wide implications (not even industry wide).   It would have been nice if the article provided a bit more detail on the ""not clear the bidder ... would actually make money"".  That's also the problem with reporting on a LCOE basis. Within a single market LCOE is the most important metric to compare apples to apples between energy sources.  It is pure speculation, but solar is more capex heavy than alternatives. Therefore the cost of finance becomes a major driver and an outfit like Masdar has access to cheap money"
"Yes, the price of a stock is what investors think the value of a stock is, which is not tied to profits or dividends by any rigid formula. But to say that therefore the price could be high even though the company is doing very poorly is hypothetically true, but unlikely in practice. Consider any other product. There is no fixed formula for the value of a used car, either. If everyone agreed that a rusting, 20-year old car that doesn't run is worth $100,000, then that's what it would sell for. But that's a pretty big ""if"" at the beginning of that sentence.  If the car had been used in some hit TV show 20 years ago, or if it was owned by a celebrity, or some such special case, maybe a rusting old car really would sell for $100,000. Likewise, a stock might have a price higher than what one would predict from its dividends if some rich person wanted to buy that company because the brand name brings back nostalgic memories from his youth and so he drives the price up, etc. But the normal case is that, in the long term, the price of a stock tends to settle on a value proportional to the dividends that it pays. Or rather, and this is a big caveat, the dividends that investors expect it to pay in the future. And then adjusted for all sorts of other factors and special situations, like the value of the company if it was to be liquidated, etc."
"I wouldn't call them favorable.  Edmunds report provides a very long repair list and in the last sentence concludes that Model S is ""hard to recommend"".  Consumer Reports provides a similar list of component failures, some of which likely caused significant inconvenience, even if they were covered by warranty; the review title says that Model S has ""more than its share of problems"".    Though both reviews emphasize the quality of Tesla service, they're a significant step down from glowing initial reviews of Model S."
I don't think there's much you can do. Losses from the sale of personal-use automobiles (used for pleasure, commuting, etc) are not deductible as capital losses.  See IRS Tax Topic 409, end of the first paragraph.  The expenses you incurred in owning and operating the car (insurance, fuel, maintenance, service plans, etc) are not deductible either. If you used it partly for business, then some of your expenses might be deductible; see IRS Tax Topic 510.  This includes depreciation (decline in value), but only according to a standard schedule; you don't generally just get to deduct the difference between your buying and selling price.  Also, you'd need to have records to verify your business use.  But anyway, these deductions would apply (or not) regardless of whether you sell the car. You don't get your sales tax refunded when you resell the vehicle.  That's why it's a sales tax, not a value-added tax.  Note, however, that if you do sell it, the sales tax on this new transaction will be the buyer's responsibility, not yours. You do have the option on your federal income tax return to deduct the state sales tax you paid when you bought the car; in fact, you can deduct all the sales taxes you paid in that year.  (If you have already filed your taxes for that year, you can go back and amend them.)  However, this takes the place of your state income tax deduction for the year; you can't deduct both.  See Tax Topic 503.  So this is only useful if your sales taxes for that year exceeded the state income tax you paid in that year.  Also, note that state taxes are not deductible on your state income tax return.  Again, this deduction applies whether you sell the car or not.
"Investing in a company that loses money with the mindset ""its good for the environment"" is not something I will be doing. I'm all for Tesla building cars. Just not going to risk this with my money.  Maybe it will be a mistake and when I'm 80 I will look back and go damn it was the next Microsoft but thats the decision I'm making."
"There is no official price. There is only the price a seller is willing to offer and a buyer is willing to accept at that moment. It tends to be close to the price negotiated for the last such sale, but that's just market statistics, not anything actively managed or guaranteed. ""Past performance is no guarantee of future results;"" this buyer and seller may not agree with the previous pair. Especially when the market has been closed overnight but real-world events have continued to occur."
Not to be a jerk, since I'm learning about options myself, but I think you have a few things wrong about your tesla put postion.  First, assuming it was itm or atm within a week of strike it would maybe be worth $12-15, I glanced at the 11/10 put strikes ~325 trades for $12.65 https://www.barchart.com/stocks/quotes/TSLA/options?expiration=2017-11-10  The closer it gets to expiry theta decay reduces put value significantly, the 325's that expire tomorrow are only worth $2.60.   Expecting TSLA to drop from 325 to 50 a share by Jan has a .006% chance of occuring according to the current delta. It's a lottery ticket at best.  _____ Lastly the $50 price is the expected share price at the date of expiry. The price you pay is 57c for the options. So in order to get to your 494k number TSLA would need to decline $50 dollars to a price of 275 a share. You wouldn't want to buy 50 dollar puts, just the 275 puts, provided it declines very quickly.   EDIT: I was looking at the recent expiration to get an idea of atm or itm prices, since it's not like you would hold to expiration. Also the Jan has a 0.6% chance of hitting 50, not .006%. That said what I've noticed when things start to slide is that puts have a weird way of pricing themselves. For example when something gradually goes up all of the calls go up down the chain through time frames, but puts do not in the same fashion. Further out lower priced puts won't move nearly as much unless the company is basically headed for bankruptcy.
If you do purchase with amazon I know they offer extended plans on a lot of their electronics. It would be worth considering these plans and adding the cost to the hardware you’re reselling. Most of these plans simply write you a check for defective hardware after you ship them in. I would highly suggest going with a business structure that protects your personal assets such as an LLC. I recommend this because you will be proving a service to other people and you may be blamed for damages. If you are found to be at fault they company takes the hit, not you. edit: Also, you can take advantage of amazon's two day shipping. When a customer contracts you for a job simply ask for 50% deposit and a 4 day notice. When you receive the deposit place the order on amazon for the hardware. This will mean less money out of your pocket.
Probably more if the interest rate is above 0%. If it's too much, just pay span the payments longer, or get a cheaper car. Nice thing, assuming you keep it bone stock (or even tastefully modded, or even fully modded), you'll have no problem selling to some rich teenager. They hold their value.
This article may be a good place to start [Introduction to Smart Pricing: How Google, Priceline, and Leading Businesses Use Pricing Innovation for Profitability](http://www.ftpress.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1569334)   It gives a brief overview of three pricing strategies, cost plus, competition based pricing and consumer based pricing.  **Edit** -This may also be helpful [Social Science Research Network](http://www.ssrn.com/en/)
Here is a nice overview from Vanguard on some options for a small business owner to offer retirement accounts.   https://investor.vanguard.com/what-we-offer/small-business/compare-plans I would look over the chart and decide which avenue is best for you and then call around to investment companies (Vanguard, Fidelity, etc. etc.) asking for pricing information.
Square prices are hard to beat for a small operation. I've looked around when I was considering starting up a business, and they're definitely one of the cheapest. Paypal are the second best, but I do not trust Paypal in general. However, looking locally may provide you some more options. If you walk in to one of the local banks, you may be able to get offers for merchant accounts with better rate, depending on your relationships with that bank. You can also check out Costco merchant services, they seem to be quite competitive with the rates, but there may be other costs (they will probably charge more for equipment).
Transparency. If I need materials to build a house or food from a restaurant, I can get up front pricing easily. With healthcare, you have to jump through flaming hoops to get an idea of what you're going to pay. Also, healthcare costs are very negotiable and consumers don't realize this. There aren't a lot of B2C businesses that accept bargaining and negotiation as a part of doing business, unlike B2B so the consumer assumes that the quoted price is the final price. You can always negotiate things with your healthcare (for example I negotiated my dental bill before agreeing the to service).
Actually, the rate of change could be more or less constant, but you might have a minimum price that represents your fixed costs.  So you might sell a milligram for $1 (which is ridiculous in terms of per-unit pricing) to cover fixed costs, and add $0.50/lb for each step in size to cover variable costs (cost of raw materials and packaging), so a 2lb bag would be $2, a 5lb bag would be $3.50, a ton would be $1,001, etc.  At the end of the day, you want the marginal revenue (the price that you charge for each additional pound) to be more than the marginal cost (the price per pound it takes to produce the bag).  Any amount over that goes towards your fixed costs - the cost you'd incur if you sold zero product (rent, utilities, overhead, etc.) It's not an exact science, and there are many variables that go into pricing.
"First of all to answer the basic question ""Is one method correct? Might it depend on local laws?"" Yes it does depend on local laws. Because ultimately the business will have to file forms with the sate/county/city.  These forms are going to ask for the total sales based on the tax category (tax free, x%, y%). Each transaction could have parts that fall into each category. The local taxing authority decides what goes into each category. The local taxing authority also determines how often the business needs to submit the taxes. They can even decide to base the rates used by where the customer lives.  A business is not required to charge directly for sales tax. That is why frequently at sporting events, the price on the menu notes that all sales taxes are included. I suppose not directly charging a sales tax makes the monthly calculation harder, but the state will still get their money. Rounding up at the end of the entire transaction is enough to make sure they collect enough taxes, so they don't have to dip into their profits."
With near zero marginal cost, and infinite supply, your prices are going to be decided by entry cost, competition, and what the market will bear. Generally speaking, though, there are no accurate models for getting these kinds of optimal prices in advance - your best bet is to test, experiment, and then build a business and market specific model based on what you observe.  Look at the Steam network, as an example. They are in the business of selling 0 marginal cost software (games), in a market with a significant but quickly decreasing entry cost, and with solid competition. Despite being around for years in a mature market, they're still discovering unexpected optimal price points when testing how their customers behave.
There is nothing called best; Depending on the amounts there are several options and each will cost some money.  If your business is still small customers are individuals try PayPal it will be easy for everyone. The other options are accepting Credit Card, you would need to set-up card gateway on your website etc Simple wire transfer, it will cost more both for your customers and to you.
You kind of have to take what the market is offering.  The easiest way would be for you to have a system by which you could purchase the entire business and then dispose of the FFE and other liabilities as part of the sale.  Then you could pick and choose which of the clients you want to add to your portfolio of clients and those you would release back to the market.  The valuation of the transaction is the trick.  Taking the new client and managing it profitably is presumably something you feel you are well-suited to do already.
nowhere near enough information to really help you.  Price it to an IRR of about 25% in 4 years as your business has little to no history.  For small business in most sectors you can use a rule of thumb, 2x net + FFE.  For me personally, I wouldn't touch a business only 6 months old.
"There really isn't any good ways that I'm aware of. (The exception is in New York or California, where hospitals must post prices.) The law sets price floors on many procedures by setting Medicare and Medicaid reimbursement rates. As a result, the ""list price"" for a given procedure is dramatically inflated, and various health insurers negotiate rates somewhere in the middle. I'd recommend talking to the business offices or financial counselors at medical groups that you do business with. Ask about ""self pay discounts"" or other programs appropriate for folks in your position."
Where are you operating your business and how is it structured? DBA, LLC? How do you plan on taxing the business? You can purchase whatever hardware you want and resale at whatever price you want. You may be able to contact a vendor and open a dealer account. This means they'll will give you a price break if you purchase X amount of volume but this may require more upfront capital. Warranty will probably be best to be done under your name. Most manufacture warranties require proof of purchase from an approved vendor. If you're buying and reselling at a higher cost then the original receipt will show your profits. Likewise, you can sale the hardware at cost and make all your money on labor. This would allow you to pass the warranty responsibility to the customer. Depending on the customer’s site you may have to mount your routers, repeaters and access points in hard to reach places. The customer might prefer to call you and have you take care of it from there. The way I would do it structure the installations by square footage and predicted users. The greater the square footage the more hardware you’ll need. Offer a remote support plan at a reasonable rate. For 20/month you will provide tear 1 support which can include troubleshooting dead access points remotely, changing network names, and providing up to X amount of network reports. ( Ubiquiti offers network monitoring for free in their suite. You would just be interpreting this information) For issues that require you to come to site you can charge X amount of dollars per visit plus parts and labor. I would offer on the spot replacement for hardware under warranty for a very small fee and then you can ship off the defective hardware and have it replaced. If you do purchase with amazon I know they offer extended plans on a lot of their electronics. It would be worth considering these plans and adding the cost to the hardware you’re reselling. Most of these plans simply write you a check for defective hardware after you ship them in. I would highly suggest going with a business structure that protects your personal assets such as an LLC. I recommend this because you will be proving a service to other people and you may be blamed for damages.
Make the price match the cheapest similar product, then advertise the hell out of it. If it's in a specialist section, put some in the general area too. Keep it towards the fish kits so that when people are buying a bunch of stuff for a new tank, they can get cheaper food. If the price/lb is right, most people will feed their fish anything. You can also extend the life of your overstock by keeping it in cool storage. Maybe a basement with an AC. Shy away from 'buy more than one to save' deals, those are just annoying. Just post the price along with some indication that it's a 'low price'.   For pricing, figure out how much you paid for the lot to find your ideal minimum return, then multiply it by 50-80% depending on your maximum loss. Divide each of these numbers by the number of units to get the ideal price for your situation. Don't forget to fuzz it upwards to account for storage costs and other minor overhead. Repeat for each product.
As someone who works for a company that deploys POS systems in Canada, I can tell you that your best bet would be to have a configuration option that lets the client decide what to do. If they have a business practice that would allow for a sale total to be $0.01 or $0.02, they should first evaluate their business practice.  If you're building a POS system to deploy in Canada, I'm sure you have access to resources (potential clients) who would already know how they would want to handle this. Ask them.