vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Currently the FDIC insures deposits up to $250,000 per person per bank. The following products are covered if your bank is FDIC insured. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_Deposit_Insurance_Corporation#FDIC-insured_products
If I understand you right, what you need is the minimum amount in the account until your next deposit.  So for example, if today is the 10th and you get paid on the 15th, how much do I need to have in the account, so I know how much I can spend?  That amount should be all of the bills that will be paid between today and the 15th. An alternative would just to keep a running balance and see what the minimum value is. My personal finance software does that for me, but it's possible, although a little more complicated, in Excel.  You'd have to find the date of the next deposit, and do a SUMIF looking for dates between today and that date.  That's about as far as I can get without getting off-topic.
"The reason ""on-line"" savings accounts (Ally, CapitalOne, American Express, and many others) provide much higher rates than brick-and-mortar banks is because they're not brick-and-mortar. They do not need to pay for a huge amount of real estate, utilities, public-facing employees, inter-office mail, security, etc etc. All that - allows them to pay more for your money. The back office of these banks is the same as that of Chase, BOA or Wells Fargo. Its just that they don't have the enormous expense of having a branch in every neighborhood, while still reaching all the same population of depositors. So no, its not a scam, these are reputable banks. Some have physical offices (for example, I know that CapitalOne has some branches in New York), some don't (IIRC neither Ally nor American Express Federal Saving Bank have physical branches). But they're banks nonetheless, insured as required by FDIC (or NCUA, in case of credit unions), and provide all the same services for less (or all the same savings for more, if you will). IMHO, giving 0.01% APR is a scam. Not the other way around. The old-style banks want your money for free, and you're worried why would someone else treat you better... Well, that's why the US has one of the most retarded financial systems in the Western world..."
If I open and fill an ISA, then leave the account alone for an entire year, will I then be able to add an additional £[Insert ISA limit here] to the original money I put in the account?  Yes, you can. Will the full sum of £[Last years limit] + £[This years limit] that is in the account have interest paid on it? Yes, it will. Will the account be closed at the end of the period regardless? No. The account would only be closed if you requested it to be closed. Otherwise it would sit there with the original balance in it earning interest at the stated rate. The only way I can see an ISA being of any worth is by building up a substantial amount this way, but you would need so much cash laying around to max the ISA year on year. Just think of an ISA as like a completely normal savings account except that you don't pay tax on the interest, and there is a limit to how much you can deposit in any given year.  Right now, while interest rates have been low for a while, the savings rates on any account (including ISAs) are not desperately attractive; additionally, with the recent changes to how interest on normal savings accounts are taxed, ISAs are not quite such a big deal as they used to be.  If you look back to a time when interest rates were around 5%, a higher rate tax payer with £50,000 in a normal savings account would earn £2500 interest in a year, on which they would pay £1000 in tax. That made an ISA a very attractive option indeed.
"Careful, this could be a scam. But if not.... There is no feasible way to turn that into cash without a very good reason that will require your banker to know you, as a depositor, reasonably well. And it sounds like you aren't banked at all. If this is your money, please pay attention - Class in America is defined by financial knowledge. If you are unbanked and lower class, $2M is actually dangerous - read a book called ""Money for Nothing"" about what happens to lottery winners. Honestly the tendency is for lower-class people to be possessed to keep making lower-class financial decisions, which directly lead them to be broke and bankrupt in months regardless of the size of the windfall. So making decisions differently is literally rehab... No exaggeration. To change your thinking, you'll want to read Suze Orman, John Bogle and Napoleon Hill. For an American who thinks about money the way the upper-middle-class does, $2M in the bank means the end of the 9-5 grind. He will still need to work, but will be able to be much more selective about choosing jobs which are fulfilling. It brings him the utopia we were promised. If you are currently unbanked, you will simply need to get banked to handle a check of this size. Handling this much cash is literally impossible due to the RICO laws designed to stop drug dealing and money laundering. Even if you split it into many small amounts, that itself is structuring which is a felony all its own. So let's get banked. A $2M check is a terrible entré into the banking world because it makes you smell like a criminal or scammer at first introduction. I could deposit one no problem because I have 10 years of history with my bank. But you, you'll need to convince the bank you're the real deal, and give them reason to trust you. Be prepared to that ""trust"" to include depositing some money... at the least, the bank will want to know you're good for the bad-check fees they suspect will follow.
"I have some money invested on Merrill Edge. 2 days ago I purchased some mutual funds with most of the rest of my money in my account. I logged in today to see how it did, and noticed that there are 3 sections: Priced Investments, Cash &amp; Money Accounts, and Pending Activity. In the Cash &amp; Money section, there shows a negative balance of Cash (let's say -$1,000) and a positive ""Money Account Value"" (let's say +$1,100).  The ""Money Account"" appears to be made up of $1 shares of something called ""ML Direct Deposit Program"". However, even though the mutual fund purchase was made 2 days ago, and the shares of the mutual funds are officially in my account, I'm still showing all of my ""Money Account"" shares ($1000). The balance sheet effectively makes it look like I somehow needed to have ""sold"" back my money account shares, converted them to cash, and then bought the funds. I'm hoping that isn't the case, and for some reason, there is a multiday lag between me buying stock and money getting deducted from my ""Money Account"". Hope that all makes sense.  TLDR: what's the diff between a Cash account and Money Account that's filled with shares of "" ML Direct Deposit Program""?  Edit: Today the cash and money account offset by equal values equal to one of my mutual fund purchases."
For the requirement for risk free and hassle free account a CD or money market account through your local bank, credit union, or even large online bank will be fine. These funds won't grow very fast over time but they are safe and insured. These types of accounts are perfect for all the miscellaneous birthday, Holiday and religious event checks. There is not a requirement that the money be in a UGMA (Uniform Gifts to Minors Act) account. Putting it in a UGMA account does make it hard for the parents to spend. The IRS does allow the child to have earnings from banks without the formality of a UGMA. The money shouldn't be moved between the parent's and child's account but it is possible for the parents to spend the child's money if times are tight and the money is used for items that benefit the child. If there is a reasonable assumption of college then the 529 plan makes a lot of sense. The prepaid tuition options would be risky because they tend to be tied to a single state, and who knows where they will be living in 10 to 15 years. The 529 does focus the money to be used for educational expenses, but it can be used for non-educational expenses if you are willing to pay the taxes and penalties. It can also be transferred to another child later, or even other family members. In my state the 529 plan doesn't have to be used right after high school graduation. It can be used up to 30 years after graduation. So they can decide a few years later that they want to go back to school.
This article is very short on details. How much Bitcoin did he buy? If he spent $10k or more the bank is LEGALLY REQUIRED to ask why he is buying it, just as they would be if he was withdrawing the cash.  What's more, the threshold can be far lower than 10K, especially if it appears you  are doing multiple  transactions for  the express purpose  of being below 10K. Since the article explicitly said he did multiple transactions, this is a likely possibility as well.
"You state ""Any info will be appreciated"", so here's some background information on my answer (you can skip to my answer): When I worked for banks, I was required to submit suspicious activity to the people above me by filling out a form with a customer's name, SSN, account number(s) and ID.  You may hear in media that it is $10K or sometimes $5K.  The truth is that it could be lower than that, depending on what the institution defines as suspicious.  Every year we were required to take a ""course"" which implied that terrorists and criminals use cash regularly - whether we agree or disagree is irrelevant - this is what the course implied. It's important to understand that many people use cash-only budgets because it's easier than relying on the banking system which charges overdraft fees for going over, or in some cases, you pay more at merchants because of card usage (some merchants give discounts for cash).  If someone has a budget of $10K a month and they choose to use cash, that's perfectly fine.  Also, why is it anyone's business what someone does with their private property?  This created an interesting contrast among differently aged Americans - older Americans saw the banking system as tyrannical busybodies whereas young Americans didn't care.  This is part of why I eventually left the banking system; I felt sick that I had to report this information, but it's amazing how quick everyone is to accept the new rules.  Notice how one of the comments asks you what you intend to do with the money, as if it's any of their business.  Welcome to the New America©! My answer: If you withdraw $100,000, here is what will more than likely happen: Now, watch the anger at this answer because I'm telling you the truth.  This article will explain why.  Your very question had a negative 1, as if asking what you're asking is wrong (see the absurdity)!  If Joseph Stalin ran for president in the United States, the majority of Americans would welcome him.  You have good reason to be concerned; others at this site have noticed this as well."
"Banks often offer cash to people who open savings accounts in order to drive new business. Their gain is pretty much as you think, to grow their asset base. A survey released in 2008 by UK-based Age Concern declared that only 16% of the British population have ever switched their banks‚ while 45% of marriages now end in divorce. Yip, till death do most part. In the US, similar analysis is pointing to a decline in people moving banks from the typical rate of 15% annually. If people are unwilling to change banks then how much more difficult for online brokers to get customers to switch? TD Ameritrade is offering you 30 days commission-free and some cash (0.2% - 0.4% depending on the funds you invest). Most people - especially those who use the opportunity to buy and hold - won't make much money for them, but it only takes a few more aggressive traders for them to gain overall. For financial institutions the question is straightforward: how much must they pay you to overcome your switching cost of changing institutions? If that number is sufficiently smaller than what they feel they can make in profits on having your business then they will pay. EDIT TO ELABORATE: The mechanism by which any financial institution makes money by offering cash to customers is essentially one of the ""law of large numbers"". If all you did is transfer in, say, $100,000, buy an ETF within the 30-day window (or any of the ongoing commission-free ones) and hold, then sell after a few years, they will probably lose money on you. I imagine they expect that on a large number of people taking advantage of this offer. Credit card companies are no different. More than half of people pay their monthly credit balance without incurring any interest charges. They get 30 days of credit for free. Everyone else makes the company a fortune. TD Ameritrade's fees are quite comprehensive outside of this special offer. Besides transactional commissions, their value-added services include subscription fees, administration fees, transaction fees, a few extra-special value-added services and, then, when you wish to cash out and realise your returns, an outbound transfer fee. However, you're a captured market.
You are losing something - interest on your deposit.  That money you are giving to the bank is not earning interest so you are losing money considering inflation is eating into it.
"wrong! people create ""money"" by lending it to the banks....  Banks are effectivly just exchanges between depositors and lenders, i.e. an IOU exchange.  When you deposit $1000, you LOAN the bank $1000. AND the normal way you deposit $1000, is by an IOU of $1000 by someone else like your employer, NOT by showing up in the bank with cash.  (NB: checks are IOUs)  The issuing/central bank do occationally create money, if the normal banks have more customers wanting to borrow than lend. However, that source of money may be raised by the central bank issuing bonds rather than new money."
"Here we go again! Why, oh why, would someone just open a bank account in your name with that much money for no good reason?  Unless there's a very rich relative in your family tree, this can not come to a good ending.  Besides, if this was money being left to you by someone as part of an inheritance, you'd hear from attorneys from the estate. Notwithstanding everything @NickR posted about the details of what makes it suspicious, ask yourself why a banker would contact you by email about an account with this much money in it.  The bank would, at the very least, send you a registered/certified letter on official stationery.   So what happens here is when you give them your banking information, whoever it is that's doing this will clean out your account, and that's for starters.   They will ask for enough information to steal your identity too, and if you have good credit, that'll be gone in a heartbeat. The best scams (meaning the most successful ones) always appeal to peoples' greed, using large amounts of money that just miraculously belong to the victim, if only they'd give a little information to ""transfer"" the money.   Worse yet, most of these scams will come up with some kind of ""fee"", ""tax"" or other expense that you have to pre-pay in order to make the transfer happen, so this just adds insult to injury when you find out (the hard way!) you've been scammed. DO NOT reply to the email you received or, if you already have, don't send any more responses.  If they think they may have you on the hook then they won't stop trying, and it will become very messy very quickly. THIS IS NOT REAL MONEY!  It isn't yours, it doesn't really exist, and all it will do is come to no good end if you go any further with it. Stay safe, my friend."
If your debit card has no fraud protection then you need to find a different bank, many debit cards include it. Even with fraud protection, I don't like to keep excess money in the checking account, so I have checking and savings accounts with an online bank.  I can transfer money from savings to checking instantly, 6 times per month, which allows me to keep only what is needed in the checking account. Many online banks have a better overdraft policy as well, where you simply pay a small amount of interest on the over-drawn amount, rather than a set ~$35 overdraft fee, or a $20 fee for them to automatically transfer money from your savings account. I've heard of, but not made use of threshold-based fraud alerts or two-factor approval, which you can set up so that any purchase in excess of $N triggers the need for additional approval via your phone.
"Ditto mhoran_psprep.  I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Where does the money come from? When someone starts a bank, they normally get together a bunch of investors -- perhaps people they know personally, perhaps they sell stock -- to raise initial capital. But most of the money in the bank comes from depositors. Fundamentally, what a bank does is take money from depositors and loan it to borrowers. (Banks also borrow money from other banks and from the government.) They charge the borrowers interest on the loan, and they pay depositors interest on their deposits. The difference between those two interest rates is where the bank gets their profit. Where does the money go when you pay it back? As mhoran_psprep said, some of it goes to pay interest to the depositors; some of it goes to pay the bank's expenses like employee salaries, cost of the building, etc; and some of it goes as profit to the owners or stockholders of the bank. If you're thinking, ""Wow, I'm paying back a whole lot more than I borrowed"", well, yes. But remember you're borrowing that money for 20 or 30 years. The bank isn't making very much money on the loan each year that you have it -- these days something like 4 or 5% in the U.S., I don't know what the going rates are in other countries."
I do not think banks have an obligation to report any deposits to the IRS, however, they probably have an obligation to report deposits exceeding certain threshold amounts to FinCEN. At least that's how it works in Canada, and we're known to model our Big Brother-style activities after our neighbour to the South.
US banking is a nightmare, I don't imagine any of this will translate well and I think if you had your salary paid into your savings on a Friday and missed the bank with no online banking facilities/transfers that aren't instant you'd be in a lot of trouble. If the whole ""current + instant access savings account"" thing doesn't work to well, I'm sure a credit/charge (!!!) card will work instead of a separate current account. Spend everything on that (within reason and what you can pay back/afford to pay stupid interest on) on a card with a 0% purchase rate and pay it back using an account you're paid into but is never used for expenses, some credit cards might even reward you for this type of thing but again, credit can be dangerous. A older retired relative of mine has all of his money in one account, refuses a debit card from the bank every time he is offered (he has a card, but it isn't a visa/mastercard, it's purely used for authentication in branch) and keeps that in a safe indoors! Spends everything he needs on his credit card and writes them a sort of cheque (goes into the bank with ID and signs it) for the full balance when his statement arrives. No online banking! No chance of him getting key logged any time soon. tldr; the idea of separating the accounts your money goes in (salary wise) and goes out (spending) isn't a bad idea. that is if wire transfers don't take 3-5 days where you are aha."
Ditto @MichaelBorgwardt Just to get concrete: I just checked one bank in India and they say they are paying 4% on savings accounts. I don't know what you're getting or if 4% is typical in India, but it's at least an example. So if the bank pays interest based on average daily balance, and you left the money in the bank for a week, you'd get 4%/52 = .077%. So on Rs 95,000 that would be Rs 73. I live in the US where typical interest on a savings account today is about 1%. So an equivalent amount of money -- I think that would be about $1,500 -- would get 1/52 of 1%, or 29 cents.  Don't leave the lights turned on while you do the calculations -- you'll spend more on the electricity than you make on the interest. :-) ** Addendum ** This suddenly reminds me ... I read a news story a few years ago about a man who was expecting a tax refund check from the IRS of a few hundred dollars, and when the check arrived it was for several million. Well obviously it was a mistake. But he came up with the clever idea: Deposit the check in an interest-bearing account. Promptly contact the IRS, inform them of the mistake, and ask how and where to go about returning the money. Hope that it takes at least a few days for them to figure everything out. Then keep the interest accumulated on the several-million dollars for the time that he had the money. And as he contacted them immediately about the error, they can't say he was trying to hide anything. It was a nice try, but it didn't work. They demanded he send them the interest as well as the principle.
Yes, but PayPal has limits. Depending on your annual transactions you might have a $$ limit each year unless you agree to tie to a bank account. In my case, I set up another checking account to link to, and keep a small amount there. Less than $200.
"There's a bit of confusion here.  Michael's article you linked is focused on the issue of post-tax 401(k) deposits. For those new to this, it sounds like we are talking about Roth 401(k) money. Not so. The Roth IRA was introduced in 1998, and the Roth 401(k) in 2006. Before '06, people had the ability to deposit more to their 401(k) than the pretax limit of $15,000 into the account as ""after tax"" deposits. My understanding is that these funds were analogous to the non-deducted IRA deposits for those outside the income limits.  Michael goes on the point out that now, with the addition of Roth 401(k) and Roth IRAs, there are folk with pre and post Tax 401(k) funds and trying to crack them for transfer to Traditional IRA and Roth IRA may be problematic.  Aside from a recent thread here, there are separate accounts for the Roth 401(k) and Traditional 401(k), and it's possible for the traditional to contain post tax money, which, given the recent introduction of the Roth 401(k) conversion, should be easily addressable."