vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"HypoVereinsbank (member of UniCredit group), a few savings banks (""Sparkasse"") and VR Banks offer cash (bill) deposit machines.  However, it can take a few business days until the deposit is credited to your checking account, which has to be with the same bank. Google for ""Bargeldeinzahlungsautomat"" (=cash deposit machine). As Duffbeer stated correctly, HSBC Trinkaus which is the German arm of the HSBC group does not operate any ATMs in Germany. In addition they do not share the same bank accounts. So I would recommend going with the classic banks mentioned above."
"Here's the rundown in quick form, with a link to their website. I sat down and felt like doing this, hopefully makes it easier for someone. 1. [Simple](https://www.simple.com/) - boasting the largest network of ATMs at 40,000. ""Simple (formerly called BankSimple) wants to merge all accounts into one and do away with fees by splitting the net interest between all of the banks involved."" 2. [Lytro](http://www.lytro.com/) - is the 'focus after the fact' camera, meaning you can adjust focus of the picture even after you take it. 3. [Bettworks](http://www.betterworks.com/) - BetterWorks connects popular local service providers with great companies to afford you and your employees the best, pre-negotiated perks available in one cost. 4. [Zaarly](http://www.zaarly.com/) - BI says it best, ""Zaarly is a local marketplace for real-time requests. Need chips at your party in five minutes? Find a neighbor on Zaarly who will do it now. Think Craigslist meets Twitter."" 5. [Turntable.fm](http://turntable.fm/) - Social Listening 6. [Oink](http://www.oink.com/) - yelp for specific items on the menu. 7. [General Assembly](http://generalassemb.ly/) - campus for technology, design, and entrepreneurship. 8. [Giftly](http://www.giftly.com/) - gift cards for any business anywhere. 9. [Get Around](http://www.getaround.com/) - car rental service for you and your neighbors. 10. [Skill Share](http://www.skillshare.com/) - community marketplace to learn anything from anyone 11.
In the US, you would probably look at a certificate of deposit (CD).   I imagine there is a similar financial product in the UK, but don't know first hand.   I think it is wise to be risk averse in this situation, but be aware that your interest rate will be dismal for guaranteed returns.
For double entry bookkeeping, personal or small business, GnuCash is very good. Exists for Mac Os.
Given that you are starting with a relatively small amount, you want a decent interest rate, and you want flexibility, I would consider fixed deposit laddering strategy. Let's say you have ₹15,000 to start with. Split this in to three components: Purchase all of the above at the same time. 30 days later, you will have the first FD mature. If you need this money, you use it. If you don't need it, purchase another 90-day fixed deposit. If you keep going this way, you will have a deposit mature every 30 days and can choose to use it or renew the fixed deposit. This strategy has some disadvantages to consider: As for interest rates, the length of the fixed deposit in positively related to the interest rate. If you want higher interest rates, elect for longer fixed deposit cycles.For instance, when you become more confident about your financial situation, replace the 30, 60, 90 day cycle with a 6, 12, 18 month cycle The cost of maintaining the short term deposit renewals and new purchases. If your bank does not allow such transactions through on line banking, you might spend more time than you like at a bank or on the phone with the bank You want a monthly dividend but this might not be the case with fixed deposits. It depends on your bank but I believe most Indian banks pay interest every three months
Since returning of capital is the most important, I would go to bankrate.com and find either an online bank savings account or MMA account.  By going to bankrate.com, you can find higher rates.  Sometimes you can find rates that are higher than a CD and are still FDIC insured.  I've found ally bank's raise your rate 2 year CD to always have the best rate.  In addition, if rates go up, you are able to raise the rate to the current rate.
"Check out the ""rewards checking"" accounts listed on this thread at fatwallet finance forums. You could easily get 3.5% - 4% right now if you are willing to do the rewards checking dance. If not, you should look into the 1-2% accounts at the top. I use Alliant CU and their website is nice (and they give you your credit score every six months)."
"No, the best you can do is (probably) determine the bank, from the sort code. using an online checker such as this one from the UK payments industry trade association. Revealing the name of an account holder is something the bank would typically require a warrant for, I'd expect, or whatever is covered in the account T&Cs under ""we provide all lawfully required assistance to the authorities"" Switching to what I suspect is your underlying problem - if this is a dispute that's arisen at the end of your tenancy, relating to the return of the deposit, then there are plenty of people to help you, for free. Use those rather than attempting your own detective work. Start with the UK government How to Rent guide, which includes links on to Shelter's pages about deposits. The CAB has lots of good info here too. Note that if your landlord didn't put your deposit in a deposit protection scheme, then as a professional landlord they could be penalised four times (I think) the deposit amount by a court, so stick to your guns on this."
You can also consider getting GICs which offer early redemption - ING has pretty decent ones. Early redemption offers poorer interest than savings account, but if you go the full term the interest rates are better than savings account.
If the fees to keep the account open are reasonable then it's worth keeping it open for now.  It streamlines things if you need to visit or otherwise have business transactions (e.g. order things from online stores) with France or other EU countries.  If you are not yet even in university, I think it is far too early to predict where you will end up spending your time in life.
The two banks involved may have different policies about honoring the check. It might not be written on the check.  Your bank may decide that the stale check has to be treated differently and will withhold funds for a longer period of time before giving you access to the money. They will give time for the first bank to refuse to honor the check. They may be concerned about insufficient funds, the age of the check, and the fact that the original account could have been closed. If you are concerned about the age of the check. You could go to your bank in person, instead of using deposit by ATM, scanner, or smart phone. This allows you to talk to a knowledgeable person. And if they are going to treat the check differently or reject the check, they can let you know right away. The audit may not have been concerned about the fact that the check hadn't been cashed because when they did the audit the check was still considered fresh. Some companies will contact you eventually to reissue the check so you they can get the liability off their books.  If the bank does refuse the check contact the company to see how you can get a replacement check issued. They may want proof the check can't be cashed so they don't have to worry about paying you twice.
Banks that use this amazing ClearXChange service: BOA, Capitol One, Chase, 1st Bank, Frost, US Bank and Wells Fargo I have Wells Fargo. There is a tab for SurePay. I had an option to register my phone number and/or email for this service. I wasn't automatically setup.
This process takes some time, so XYZ may not make the $500 available to you right away - there may be a hold period before you can withdraw that $500 from your account. You could take the check to ABC Bank, in person. They will verify on the spot that the check is valid and that you are in fact user54609. If everything looks good, they will hand you $500 in cash (perhaps subtracting a fee of a few dollars). Now we can see some possible problems with each of these approaches. For 1: Maybe you don't have a bank account at all. There are many possible reasons: You don't have enough money to meet the minimum balance that a bank account would require. You used to have an account, but you overdrew or otherwise misused an account, so the bank closed it. They then entered you in a registry such as ChexSystems which ensures that other banks know about this, and so no other bank will open a new account for you. You immigrated to the country illegally and cannot get the documents (driver's license, social security number, etc) that a bank normally requires to open an account. You simply don't like the idea of keeping your money in a bank. Maybe you do have an account at XYZ Bank, but it's in another town. You need the cash today, so you can't use mail or a mobile app, and third-party ATMs usually don't accept deposits. Maybe you need to spend the money today, and XYZ Bank would place a hold. For 2: ABC Bank may not have a branch you can conveniently visit. Maybe the nearest one is a long way away, in another city or across the country. Or maybe ABC is an online bank with no physical branches at all. Maybe it's in the same city, but you don't have transportation to get you there. Or maybe it's simply less convenient than the check-cashing business on the corner. Maybe it is after usual banking hours, or a weekend, and ABC Bank is closed, but you need cash now.
If you want the flexibility to make additional payments you should favour a flexible ISA. Shop around on comparators and you should be able to find a few that responds to your minimum interest rates Fixed-term ISAs are comparable to a bond: money goes in on day one and then no more deposit are allowed. The rate is fixed for the period. Even though they have a fixed you would still be able to withdraw cash but this would cost you an interest penalty. Not being able to withdraw money is asking the banks to take responsibility on your behalf... They won't do that
The other answers are good, but not UK-specific. You need to look for an Independent Financial Advisor (IFA). These are regulated by the FCA and you pay them a time-based fee for their services, they do not take commission on the products they recommend to you.  The Government Money Advice Service page (hat tip to @AndyT in the comments on the question for the link) tells you how to go about finding one of these and what sort of questions to ask. Contrary to the note in the answer by @Harper, in the UK many IFAs do have perfectly nice offices, this is not a sign that should put you off.  Personal recommendations for IFAs are usually the best way to go but failing that there are directories of them and many will have an initial conversation with you for free to ensure you are aligned with each other.
"Although now there are ""welcome"" banking packages when I landed in 2008 I couldn't find any and Vancity gave me a secured visa nonetheless. Let me emphasize: I didn't have a credit history, score at all. I doubt this changed much. The bank has zero risk."
"I've never heard of a loan product like that. Yes, if they keep the funds in an account, it is no risk to the bank, but they would essentially need to go through the loan process twice for the same loan: when you pick a house, they need to reevaluate everything, along with appraising and approving the house.  Even if you did find a bank that would do this for you, there are a few problems with this scheme. You would be paying interest before you have a need for this money, negating the savings you might achieve if the interest rates go up. In addition, your ""balance"" will go down as ""payments"" are deducted from your loan, and when you finally find a home to buy, you might not have enough for the house you want. You'll need to borrow more than you need, which will further negate any possible savings.  It is impossible to know how fast rates will climb. If I were you, I would stick to saving for your down payment, and just get the best rate you can when you are ready to buy.  Another potential idea for you is to lock an interest rate. When you apply for a mortgage, the interest rate is often locked for as much as 60 days, to protect the borrower in the event that the rates go up. You could ask the bank if you can pay a fee to lock the rate even longer. I don't know if that is possible or not. And, of course, the fee would eat into your potential savings."
When you pay cash for a car, you don't always necessarily need to pay cash. You just aren't using credit or a loan is all. A few options you have are: Obviously no dealer expects anyone to just have the cash laying around for a car worth a few thousand dollars, nor would you bother going to your bank or credit union for the cash. You can simply get a cashier's check made out for the amount. Note that dealers may not accept personal checks as they may bounce.  After negotiations at the dealer, you would explain you're paying cash, likely pay a deposit (depending on the price of the car, but $500 would probably be enough. Again, the deposit can be a check or bank deposit), and then come back later on with a cashier's check, or deposit into a bank account. You would be able to do this later that day or within a few days, but since you've purchased a new car you would probably want to return ASAP!
You need to do the maths exactly. The cost of buying a car in cash and using a loan is not the same. The dealership will often get paid a significant amount of money if you get a loan through them. On the other hand, they may have a hold over you if you need their loan (no cash, and the bank won't give you money).  One strategy is that while you discuss the price with the dealer, you indicate that you are going to get a loan through them. And then when you've got the best price for the car, that's when you tell them it's cash. Remember that the car dealer will do what's best for their finances without any consideration of what's good for you, so you are perfectly in your rights to do the same to them.
In general I'd say, yeah, if you can pay cash, pay cash. If you pay cash, then by definition you pay zero interest. If you get a loan, you'll pay interest. Most people get a loan to buy a car because they don't have the cash. Possible reasons not to pay cash when you could: One: Technically you can pay cash, but if you did, you would have little or no reserve for emergencies. Like if the car costs, say, $20,000.00, and you have $20,010.00 in your bank account, then technically you could afford to pay cash, but you probably shouldn't, because you don't want to have just $10 left. What if tomorrow something comes up? Two: Arguably, you have a place to invest money that pays more than the interest on the loan. Like say you can get a car loan for, whatever the going rate is today, say 6%. And you know a place to invest your money that is very safe and almost guaranteed to pay 10%. It would make sense to borrow to buy the car, invest the cash, and then withdraw money from the investment to make the payments on the car. You'd end up 4% ahead. There are a lot of catches to that strategy, though. The biggest is that the more the investment pays, the more likely that it is risky. If you thought the investment would pay 10% but it ends up paying only 4%, then you will lose money by this strategy. Also, there's the psychological element: Many people SAY and fully INTEND to invest their money, but then find other things they want to buy and so spend it instead. If you pay cash, you're committed.
You can pay with a cashiers check or personal check. You can even pay cash, or combine payment methods. However, in the USA if you give the dealership $10,000 or more in actual cash, they will be required to fill out a form 8300 with the IRS.
Instead of going to the dealership and not knowing if you will be able to get a loan or what the interest rate might be, go to a local credit union or bank first, before you go car shopping, and talk to them about what you would need for your loan.  If you can get approval for a loan first, then you will know how much you can spend, and when it comes time for negotiation with the dealer, he won't be able to confuse you by changing the loan terms during the process.  As far as the dealer is concerned, it would be a cash transaction. That having been said, I can't recommend taking a car loan.  I, of course, don't know you or your situation, but there are lots of good reasons for buying a less expensive car and doing what you can to pay cash for it.  Should you choose to go ahead with the loan, I would suggest that you get the shortest loan length that you can afford, and aim to pay it off early.
Yes, truckloads of cash. /s  It's exactly the same as your example, when people say to pay for a car in cash, they don't meany physical bills, but rather the idea that you aren't getting a loan.   In most acquisitions, the buyer will usually pay with their own stock, pay in cash, or a combination of both.
One additional reason to pay with cash rather than financing is that you will be able to completely shut down the dealership from haggling over finance terms and get right to the point of haggling over the cost of the car (which you should always do).
I sold my car on Craigslist for 2K and received cash.  I bought a car from Craigslist with $4K cash. For larger amounts where the buyer doesn't want to pocket such large quantities of money, meet them at their bank and have the banker do a draw on their account.  Hustle that check to your bank and be done.
The only card I've seen offer this on credit card purchases is Discover.  I think they have a special deal with the stores so that the cash-over amount is not included in the percentage-fee the merchant pays.  (The cash part shows up broken-out from the purchase amount on the statement--if this was purely something the store did on its own without some collaboration with Discover that would not happen). The first few times I've seen the offer, I assumed it would be treated like a cash-advance (high APR, immediate interest with no grace period, etc.), but it is not.  It is treated like a purchase. You have no interest charge if you pay in full during the grace period, and no transaction fee.  Now I very rarely go to the ATM. What is in it for Discover?  They have a higher balance to charge you interest on if you ever fail to pay in full before the grace period.  And Discover doesn't have any debit/pin option that I know of, so no concern of cannibalizing their other business.  And happier customers. What is in it for the grocer?  Happier customers, and they need to have the armored car come around less often and spend less time counting drawers internally.
Cash is very effective at getting a discount when buying from individuals (craigslist, garage sales, estate sales, flea markets, etc.).   I'll make an offer, then thumb through the cash while they consider it.   There eyes will dart back and forth between my eyes and the cash as they decide whether to take my offer. Car dealers do seem to be very unique.   The dealer I bought at recently said that 70% of their deals were cash purchases, JoeTaxpayer's dealer said 1% were cash purchases.   I've had good luck negotiating with cash for well-loved cars (under $10K) from both individuals or used dealers. I'm also looking for carpet for my house and the first vendor I went to offered at 5% discount if I paid up front (no financing).
Not long after college in my new job I bought a used car with payments, I have never done that since. I just don't like having a car payment. I have bought every car since then with cash. You should never borrow money to buy a car There are several things that come into play when buying a car. When you are shopping with cash you tend to be more conservative with your purchases look at this Study on Credit card purchases. A Dunn & Bradstreet study found that people spend 12-18% more when using credit cards than when using cash. And McDonald's found that the average transaction rose from $4.50 to $7.00 when customers used plastic instead of cash. I would bet you if you had $27,000 dollars cash in your hand you wouldn't buy that car. You'd find a better deal, and or a cheaper car. When you finance it, it just doesn't seem to hurt as bad. Even though it's worse because now you are paying interest. A new car is just insanity unless you have a high net worth, at least seven figures. Your $27,000 car in 5 years will be worth about $6500. That's like striking a match to $340 dollars a month, you can't afford to lose that much money. Pay Cash If you lose your job, get hurt, or any number of things that can cost you money or reduce your income, it's no problem with a paid for car. They don't repo paid for cars. You have so much more flexibility when you don't have payments. You mention you have 10k in cash, and a $2000 a month positive cash flow. I would find a deal on a 8000 - 9000 car I would not buy from a dealer*. Sell the car you have put that money with the positive cash flow and every other dime you can get at your student loans and any other debt you have, keep renting cheap keep the college lifestyle (broke) until you are completely out of debt. Then I would save for a house. Finally I would read this Dave Ramsey book, if I would have read this at your age, I would literally be a millionaire by now, I'm 37.
I have in the last few years purchased several used cars from dealers. They have handled it two different ways. They accepted a small check ~$1,000 now, and then gave me three business days to bring the rest as a cashiers check. They also insisted that I submit a application for credit, in case I needed a loan.  They accepted a personal check on the spot. Ask them before you drive to the dealer. Of course they would love you to get a loan from them.
"You do not say what country you are in. This is an answer for readers in the UK. Most normal balance transfer deals are only for paying off other credit cards. However there are ""money transfer"" deals that will pay the money direct to your bank account. The deals aren't as good as balance transfer deals but they are often a competitive option compared to other types of borrowing.  Another option depending on how much you need to borrow and your regular spending habits is to get a card with a ""0% for purchases"" deal and use that card for your regular shopping, then put the money you would have spent on your regular shopping towards the car."
"There are a couple pretty good answers here already, but I wanted to add that, depending on your location, many grocery stores sell gasoline. Gift cards for those grocery stores can be used for gas and groceries and usually do not include any fees. Since we all need to eat and most of us need to fill the tank on a regular basis, this seems like the best way to run up the bill without purchasing frivolous items. As another poster mentioned, pre-paying bills is another great way to go. Some places such as health clubs may even offer you a discount for paying in full, essentially ""earning"" you more money down the road."
I'd pay cash.  Car loans are amortized, so sometimes you can get upside-down on the loan between 18-30 months because you are pre-paying interest. This can get you into trouble if you get into an accident. Given the low rate and the type of car you're buying, you're probably fine either way.
Ask the dealer to drive to the bank with you, if they really want cash.