vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"I'm hopeful that opinion based answers are acceptable in this context. I've been using YNAB classic for some years. I've tried to keep all possible options open in the manner of individual items for budget allocation. There does seem to be a number of ""emergency"" situations for which one would prefer to not dig into regular scheduled expenses. Having a large number of smaller funds give you flexibility in terms of categorizing your past emergencies. This gives you a better view of future allocation of your funds, perhaps freeing up money you might not have otherwise identified. If you are using a program such as YNAB (classic, I'm not familiar with the current version), you can easily transfer funds from one category to another as needed. After all, it's merely numbers in a file, not ""real money"" that would be otherwise inaccessible. To summarize, I think the smaller fund concept provides a better picture. The big picture of the small stuff means greater flexibility and forecasting. Prior to the world of personal computers, I had a piece of paper in my wallet. It had every category I could devise, representing every penny in my checking account. Pencils and erasers eventually grew into YNAB, but the concept remained the same all these decades."
Just to put in one more possibility: my credit card can have a positive balance, in which case I earn interest.  If more money is due, it will automatically take that from the connected checking account. If that goes into negative, of course I have to pay interest.  I chose (argued with the bank in order to get) only a small credit allowance. However, I'll be able to access credit allowance + positive balance. That allows me within a day or so to make larger amounts accessible, while the possible immediate damage by credit card fraud is limited at other times.  Actually, the credit card pays more interest than the checkign account. Nevertheless, I don't keep high balance there because the risk of fraud is much higher for the credit card.
I am not a lawyer, but the big thing to consider would be how you would split the money should either of you decide you want to close the account (or, at least her/his portion of the account).  I suspect you'd also need to determine how to split the capital gains/losses for tax purposes.  I can't really see any benefit to a joint account, unless you needed her money to qualify for some of the lower cost funds, and even then the difference in cost would be fairly low, much lower than the cost of having to potentially hire a lawyer to sort out all the questions.
One of the more subtle disadvantages to large credit card purposes purchases (besides what the other answer mentions), is that it makes you less prepared for emergencies. If you carry a large balance on your credit card with the idea that your income can easily handle the payments to beat the no-interest period, you never know when you'll have an unexpected emergency and you'll end up having to pay less, miss the deadline and end up paying huge interest. Even if you are fastidious about saving and budgeting, what if your family comes under a large financial burden (just as one possible example)?
In the US, I would say the risk is exactly the same.  If your accounts are withing the FDIC amount (currently $250,000) your balance is 100% covered in case of a failure. You are giving up a larger network of ATMs in some cases.  You are also perhaps giving up the number of branches you can visit, the hours the bank is open and maybe how well the website works.  The features might be less, but the protection for your deposits is the same.
To be in a health savings account you must be in a high deductible health plan, but the advantage is that the money rolls over from year to year if you don't use it, but it can only be used for qualified medical expenses. A flexible spending account has its advantage as well: You can use it for dependent care as well as medical expenses, but it's part of a cafeteria plan and you lose the money that you don't spend by the end of the year (rather than it simply rolling over to the next). Another benefit in a FSA is that if you allocate 200/mo to it, and you need to get surgery in January that costs 2400 dollars and then you lose your job in February, you just got 2400 dollars of surgery for 200 dollars pre-tax :) In summary: Move to France for real health care :) just kidding
"3 reasons I can think of: I once worked for a bank and when credit scoring for loans, if you had been approved by different institutions, you were given a better score. So if you held a Visa and Mastercard (as opposed to two Visa cards) your credit score would go higher. More than 6 cards though looked suspicious and your score would take a big hit. Having more than card has helped me when getting special offers multiple times from some websites where it was limited to ""one per customer"" though most just used your address or email account. If you owed $1000 in total which you can't pay off in one go, it is better to have that split across two cards. You would be paying interest on $500 on each card but when you have one card paid off, the interest you would be paying on the other would be based on the original debt to that one card of $500 (not $1000). I hope that makes sense."
"I found an answer by Peter Selinger, in two articles, Tutorial on multiple currency accounting (June 2005, Jan 2011) and the accompanying Multiple currency accounting in GnuCash (June 2005, Feb 2007). Selinger embraces the currency neutrality I'm after. His method uses ""[a]n account that is denominated as a difference of multiple currencies... known as a currency trading account."" Currency trading accounts show the gain or loss based on exchange rates at any moment.  Apparently GnuCash 2.3.9 added support for multi-currency accounting. I haven't tried this myself. This feature is not enabled by default, and must be turned on explicity. To do so, check ""Use Trading Accounts"" under File -> Properties -> Accounts. This must be done on a per-file basis. Thanks to Mike Alexander, who implemented this feature in 2007, and worked for over 3 years to convince the GnuCash developers to include it. Older versions of GnuCash, such as 1.8.11, apparently had a feature called ""Currency Trading Accounts"", but they behaved differently than Selinger's method."
As has been stated, you don't need to actively bank with a credit union to apply for one of their credit cards. That said, one benefit to having account activity, and significant capital with a CU, is to increase the likelihood of having a larger credit line granted to you, when you do apply. If you are going to use the card sparingly however, then this is a non issue. That said, if you really want to maximize card benefits, then you want to look for cards with large sign up bonuses (e.g. Chase Sapphire, or Ink Bold if you have a business) and sign up exclusively for those bonuses. These cards offer rewards in excessive value of $1000 in travel services (hotels/plane tickets), or $500 cash back if you prefer straight cash back redemptions. If you prefer to keep it really simple, you can sign up for a cash back card, like the Amex Fidelity, which offers 2% cash back everywhere, with no annual fee (albeit the cash back is through their investment account, which you don't actually have to 'invest' with). Personally, I have the Penfed card, and use it exclusively for gas (5% cash back). I also have a Charles Schwab bank account, which I keep funded exclusively for ATM withdrawals (free ATM usage, worldwide, 100% fee reimbursement). I use the accounts exclusively for the benefit they provide me, and no more and have never had an issue. I also have 3 dozen other credit cards which I signed up for exclusively for the sign up bonus, but that's outside the scope of this question. I only mention it because you seem to believe it is difficult to get approved for a new credit line. If your credit is good however, you won't have a problem.  For a small idea, of how to maximize credit card bonus categories, I would advise you read this. As mentioned in the article, its possible to get rewards almost everywhere you shop. In short, anytime you use cash, you are missing out on a multitude of benefits a credit card offers you (e.g. see the benefits of a visa signature card) in addition to points/cash back.
The bond will rank below depositors, so it's riskier than the savings account.  The savings account is very safe if you have less than £75,000 in accounts with the bank, as then it would be covered by the deposit guarantee Financial Services Compensation Scheme. Also note that bonds tend to have a fixed maturity whereas savings accounts usually let you get your money out at any time, perhaps with some notice.
My wife and I use a digital form of the envelope system. We call it a budget; we record how much we want to allocate each month to spend--for each category of expense--in a spread sheet. Why use prepaid cards? Why not open a bunch of bank accounts and use debit cards from each if you want to separate the money? You could also keep a ledger for each account that you spend from on a smart phone or even in a physical ledger.  The reason for the envelope method is that it psychologically hurts some people to physically part with cash. Once you digitize it in some factor, you lose what is the primary touted benefit, and it's no longer the envelope system. The secondary benefit that--once the budget for one category is gone, it's gone--is only as good as the discipline you have to not rob cash from another envelope; why is this any easier than the discipline of not debiting beyond the bottom of the ledger? So a budget IS a digital version of the envelope system; once the physical cash is removed from the equation, it's definitely not the envelope system. Sorry for the contrarian take on this question, but I've never been a fan of the envelope system for many of the reasons you have described. I guess I'm too young for the cash psychology to work for me.
A counterpoint to that is that a money / finance system depends on a significant degree of trust that this paper is worth something, that banks will return your deposits when you collect them etc. This is an area where developed countries have an advantage over 3rd world countries - it is hard to start a business when you are scared that the local police chief will just come a long and steal your assets.
Visa and Mastercard offer a variety of benefits to their cardholders. It's all in the initial information that may come in one, two or more parcels describing the relationship the two of you are in. I can't enumerate the services, but it ranges from things like automatic rental car insurance to price matching. You'll really have to compare the product with your banks'.
"The danger of overdrawing the account via the use of a debit card, and the exorbitant fees that can result make me hesitant to use a debit card. The ability to cover all the transactions with one payment is why I use a credit card for these ""debit"" transactions.  Yes there is a risk of a late payment, but that can be easily avoided within the three week grace period. The ability to electronically transfer the money to pay off the card makes this even easier."
The best answer is, I think, also the simplest:  A bank is an entity which performs maturity transformation.  (Conversely, any entity that performs maturity transformation is acting as a bank, regardless of whether it is called one or is regulated as one.  And an entity which does not perform maturity transformation isn't really a bank.)  Maturity transformation is the process by which a bank accepts short-term deposits, and makes long-term loans.  The benefit to society is fairly obvious; we (collectively) like being able to take out mortgages, but we also like having our money in a checking account and available on demand.  Banks allow this to happen, although property bubbles and similar make it clear that this isn't without cost.  (Note:  Central banks are a completely different kettle of fish.)
"I think you misunderstand the purpose of the liability account.  I would suggest you review the standard accounting model, but to give you a brief overview: Income and expenses are money coming into and out of your possession.  They are the pipes flowing into and out of your ""box"".  Inside your box, you have assets (bank, savings, cash, etc) and liabilities (credit cards, unpaid debts, etc).  Money can flow into and out of either asset or liability accounts, for example: deposit a payment (income to asset), buy office supplies with cash (asset to expense), pay a bill with credit card (liability to expense), customer pays one of your debts directly (income to liability).  Paying off a debt with an asset does not affect your overall net worth, so paying a check to your credit card bill (asset to liability) doesn't decrease your total balance, it merely moves the value from one bucket to another. Now to your question: Mandatory payments, such as taxes or insurance (or for that matter, utilities, rent, food- all things that ""must"" be bought occasionally) are not liabilities, instead they are all expenses.  They might be paid FROM a liability account, if they are paid on credit for example, but the money still flows from liability to expense.  In my own records I have Expense:Taxes and Expense:Insurance, with sub-accounts in each.  Where the money comes from depends entirely on how I pay my bills, whether from cash or banks (asset) or whether it's a charge (liability).  Sometimes you receive payments back from an insurance company.  I find that rather than treating insurance premiums as a positive balance in a liability (with eventual payments as debits to the liability account), it is better to treat any payment from the insurance as income. Hope that helps!"
For the first part of your question, I think the answer is a combination of three things:  (1) Bigger companies have leverage to negotiate better deals due to volume.  (2) Some of these companies are also taking bookings from outside the US for people traveling to the US (either directly or through affiliates).  This means that they also have income in other currencies, so they may not actually be making as many wire transfers as you think.  They simply keep a bank account in Europe, for example, in Euros to receive and send money in the Eurozone as needed.  They balance the exchange on their books internally in this case, without actually sending funds through the international banking system.  Similarly in other parts of the world. (3) These companies are not going to make a wire transfer for every transaction, in any case.  They are going to transfer big sums of money to an account abroad to balance things on a longer-term basis (weekly, month, etc.)  Then they will make individual payments to service providers out of the overseas account in between these larger, international transfers. For the second part of your question, I think there's probably no way for a new business to get the advantages of scale unless you've got significant capital backing your endeavor that would make it plausible that you'll be transferring in scale.  I don't see any reason in principle that the new company could not establish bank accounts abroad and try to execute the plan outlined in #2 above except that it would require some set-up costs to do the proper paperwork in each country, probably to travel, and to initially fund the various accounts.
"The obvious advantage is turning your biggest liability into an income-generating asset. The downside are: (1), you have to find tenants (postings, time to show the place, credit/background check, and etc) (2), you have to deal with tenants (collection of rent, repairs of things that broke by itself, complaints from neighbors, termination, and etc) (3), you have to deal with the repairs In many ways, it's no different from running another (small) business, so it all boils down to how much time you are willing to invest and how handy you are in doing reno's and/or small repairs around the house. For profitability/ROI analysis, you want to assume collection of 11 months of rent per year (i.e. assume tenant doesn't renew after year, so you have the worst case scenario) and factor in all the associated expense (be honest).  Renting out a second property is a bit tricky as you often have to deal with a large operating expense (i.e. mortgage), and renting a basement apartment is not bad financially and you will have to get used to have ""strangers"" downstairs."
Like make sure you always have enough cash on hand to pay the rent or mortgage, buy food, and so on. And fourth, you want to keep a cushion against bookkeeping mistakes. I've had twice in my life that I've overdrawn a checking account, not because I was broke, but because I messed up my records and thought I had more money in the account than I really did. It's impossible to give exact numbers without knowing a lot about your income and expenses. But for myself: I keep a cushion of $1,000 to $1,5000 in my checking account, on top of all regular bills that I know I'll have to pay in the next month, to cover modest unexpected expenses and mistakes. I pay most of my bills by credit card for convenience --and pay the balance in full when I get the bill so I don't pay interest -- so I don't need a lot of cushion. I used to keep 2 to 3 months pay in an account invested in bonds and very safe stocks, something that wouldn't lose much value even in bad times. Since my daughter started college I've run this down to less than 1 months pay, and instead of replacing that money I'm instead putting my spare money into more general stocks, which is admittedly riskier. So between the two accounts I have a little over 2 months pay, which I think is low, but as I say, I'm trying to get my kids through college so I've run down my savings some. I think if I had more than 6 months pay in easily-liquidated assets, then unless I expected to need a bunch of cash for something, buying a new house or some such, I'd be transferring that to a retirement account with tax advantages.
Some good answers already, but let me add a TL:DR version. Brokers work like a special type of bank account where you can deposit or withdraw money. The major difference is that they also give you the ability to buy/sell investments with the money in your account which you can do by either calling them or using their website. Important: Many investments you will make through a broker(e.g. stocks) are not insured against losing value like the money in your bank account.
"Credit cards have three important advantages. None of them are for day-to-day borrowing of money. Safety - Credit cards have better fraud protection than checks or cash, and better than most debit/check cards. If you buy something with a credit card, you also get the issuer's (think Visa) assurances that your will get the product you paid for, or your money back. At almost any time, if a product you buy is not what you expect, you can work with the issuer, even if the store says ""screw you"". Security - Credit cards are almost universally accepted as a ""security"" against damages to the vendor. Hotels, car rentals, boat rentals etc. will accept a credit card as a means of securing their interests. Without that, you may have to make huge deposits, or not be able to rent at all. For example, in my area (touristy) you can not rent a car on debit or cash. You must use a credit card. Around here most hotel rooms require a credit card as well. This is different from area to area, but credit cards are nearly universally accepted. Emergencies - If you're using your credit card properly, then you have some extra padding when stuff goes wrong. For example, it may be cheaper to place a bill on a credit card for a couple months while you recover from a car accident, than to deplete your bank account and have to pay fees. Bonus - Some cards have perks, like miles, points, or cash back. Some can be very beneficial. You need to be careful about the rules with these bonuses. For example, some cards only give you points if you carry a balance. Some only give miles if you shop at certain stores. But if you have a good one, these can be pretty fantastic. A 3% cash back on purchases can make a large difference over time."
First of all, I agree with both the conclusion in the question and Ganesh’s answer – avoid funds or stockmarket based instruments, given the short timescale and need to draw an income. However I think looking at savings accounts only is missing a trick. At the moment there are several current accounts that pay >2% interest on balances the size of which you’re proposing. The list of which accounts are offering which rates / conditions at which point in time will vary, so here is a link to a good source of regularly  updated information: https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/savings/savings-loophole  There are some conditions, but the best interest rate on offer (that isn't limited to one year) appears to be 3% – much better than the leading instant access savings account.
Have you looked at 529 plan yet? There are tax benefits with it and you can roll over the remaining funds from your first child's account into your second child's, etc. Read this article to get yourself up to speed for this plan. Coverdell Education Savings Account is another plan you can look at. The Wikipedia article talks about the similarities and differences, so I won't repeat here.
There are two unique identifiers for a bank account: SWIFT code + bank internal identifier, or IBAN code. IBAN is mostly used within European banking system, and the whole code provides a direct and unique identification of the account. SWIFT is an international network where each bank/bank branch has its own address, and account number is a metadata added to the message for the receiving bank to handle. Usually the name of the recipient and additional information are required when wiring money through the SWIFT network, to match the records and make sure there's no mistake. Account numbers don't have to be unique, not even within the same bank. There's always something else in addition to uniquely identify them.
They might not have to open accounts at 12 bank because the coverage does allow multiple accounts at one institution if the accounts are joint accounts. It also treats retirement accounts a separate account. The bigger issue is that most millionaires don't have all their money siting in the bank. They invest in stocks, bonds, government bonds, international funds, and their own companies. Most of these carry risk, but they are diversified. They also can afford advisers to help them manage and protect their assets.
"Some features to be aware of are: How you prioritize these features will depend on your specific circumstances.  For instance, if your credit score is poor, you may have to choose among cards you can get with that score, and not have much choice on other dimensions.  If you frequently travel abroad, a low or zero foreign transaction fee may be important; if you never do, it probably doesn't matter.  If you always pay the balance in full, interest rate is less important than it is if you carry a balance.  If you frequently travel by air, an airline card may be useful to you; if you don't, you may prefer some other kind of rewards, or cash back. Cards differ along numerous dimensions, especially in the ""extra benefits"" area, which is often the most difficult area to assess, because in many cases you can't get a full description of these extra benefits until after you get the card.  A lot of the choice depends on your personal preferences (e.g., whether you want airline miles, rewards points of some sort, or cash back).  Lower fees and interest rates are always better, but it's up to you to decide if a higher fee of some sort outweighs the accompanying benefits (e.g., a better rewards rate).  A useful site for finding good offers is NerdWallet."