vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
"We use Cater Allen for our business banking (recommended/introduced by our accountants so we've saved the standard ""minimum funds per month"" limit) which was set up all remotely - our accountants sent us the forms (which you can get from Cater Allen's site), we photocopied the identity documents (driving licence etc) and sent them off. Within a couple of weeks we had the account open. Cater Allen hasn't got any physical branches, so that's ""one way"" of working around the ""come into a branch"" solution - pick a bank without branches! Girobank (which became Alliance and Leicester Business Banking and then became part of Santander) used to allow all account creations remotely - but that was back in the 90s and I've got no idea if Santander still do. Since you've setup an Ltd company, you are probably looking for an accountant too (even if it just to do your year end or payroll) - ask them for their recommendations."
In my opinion, separating your money into separate accounts is a matter of personal preference. I can only think of two main reasons why people might suggest separating your bank accounts in this way: security and accounting. The security reasoning might go something like this: My employer has access to my bank account, because he direct deposits my salary into my account.  I don't want my employer to have access to all my money, so I'll have a separate account that my employer has access to, and once the salary is deposited, I can move that money into my real account. The fault in this reasoning is that a direct deposit setup doesn't really give your employer withdrawal access to your account, and your employer doesn't have any reason to pull money out of your account after he has paid you.  If fraud is going to happen, it much more likely to happen in the account that you are doing your spending out of. The other reason might be accounting.  Perhaps you have several bank accounts, and you use the different accounts to separate your money for different purposes.  For example, you might have a checking account that you do most of your monthly spending out of, you might have a savings account that you use to store your emergency fund, and you have more savings accounts to keep track of how much you have saved toward your next car, or your vacation, or your Christmas fund, or whatever.  After you get your salary deposited, you can move some into your spending account and some into your various savings accounts for different purposes. Instead of having many bank accounts, I find it easier to do my budgeting/accounting on my own, not relying on the bank accounts to tell me how much money I have allocated to each purpose.  I only have one checking account where my income goes; my own records keep track of how much money in that account is set aside for each purpose.  When the checking account balance gets too large, I move a chunk of it over to my one savings account, which earns a little more interest than the checking account does.  I can always move money back into my checking account if I need to spend it for some reason, and the amount of money in each of the two accounts is not directly related to the purpose of the money. In summary, I don't see a good reason for this type of general recommendation.
"There are a lot of good answers, but I will share my experience.  First, a savings account needs to be for savings. If your in the US you have ""Regulation D"" to deal with and that will bite you on the rear if you go over those limits. Specially easy to do if your purchasing from a savings account.  Next having an ""Income"" account and a ""Spending"" account can be a very good tool to build a nest egg. So for example you get $1500 into your income account and then move $1000 to your spending account then budget based on that $1000. This is an amazing thing to do, so long as you have the discipline to never transfer that extra $500, and pretend your broke when you run out of the $1000.  That being said there is no reason that you can't do that in one account. It's all preference. My wife and I use YNAB (an envelope budgeting system) to do just that. We don't need the separate accounts. We are no more likely to ""not spend"" in one account then we are to ""not spend"" in two accounts. It's all just self discipline and what you need to do.  This does lead to the situation we call YNAB broke. It's when we have to start choosing between  ""going hungry"" or getting that new DVD, even though our bank account has $5,000 in it.  It's even harder when you choose ""go hungry"" and have to follow through with it, even though you have enough to buy a used car in your bank account.  But rather it's ""YNAB broke"" or your spending account is empty and your income account it full, the result is the same. It's up to ""you"" to have the self discipline not to spend. Rather that's in one account or two makes little difference."
I just decided to start using GnuCash today, and I was also stuck in this position for around an hour before I figured out what to do exactly. The answer by @jldugger pointed me partially on the right track, so this answer is intended to help people waste less time in the future.  (Note: All numbers have been redacted for privacy issues, but I hope the images are sufficient to allow you to understand what is going on. ) Upon successfully importing your transactions, you should be able to see your transactions in the Checking Account and Savings Account (plus additional accounts you have imported). The Imbalance account (GBP in my case) will be negative of whatever you have imported. This is due to the double-entry accounting system that GnuCash uses.    Now, you will have to open your Savings Account.   Note that except for a few transactions, most of them are going to Imbalance. These are marked out with the red rectangles.   What you have to do, now, is to click on them individually and sort them into the correct account. Unfortunately (I do not understand why they did this), you cannot move multiple transactions at once. See also this thread. Fortunately, you only have to do this once.  This is what your account should look like after it is complete.   After this is done, you should not have to move any more accounts, since you can directly enter the transactions in the Transfer box. At this point, your Accounts tab should look like this:  Question solved!
Banks will usually look at 2 years worth of tax returns for issuing business credit.  If those aren't available (for instance, for recently formed businesses), they will look at the personal returns of the owners. Unfortunately, it sounds like your friend is in the latter category. Bringing in another partner isn't necessarily going to help, either; with only two partners / owners, the bank would probably look at both owners' personal tax returns and credit histories.  It may be necessary to offer collateral. I'm sorry I can't offer any better solutions, but alternative funding such as personal loans from family & friends could be necessary.  Perhaps making them partners in exchange for capital.
With the joint bank account my wife and I have (with Wells Fargo), I am able to set up separate log-ins for each of us. Check with your bank to see what you can do.
You need to set your status as self-employed the day you started online work. If that date is a little ambiguous (as is usually the case with online business), you can start with the day you first made any money. Yes, you can deduct expenses from your revenue. But you have to be sure that the expenses were purely business related.  This is how it goes: You inform HMRC about the day you started work. HMRC will assign you a UTR (Unique Tax Reference) number. Depending on how much you make you might or might not need to pay Class 2 NI contributions. You'll need to tell HMRC how much you expect to earn in the current tax year. Finally, you'll need to complete a Self-Assessment at the end of the tax year. I highly recommend setting up a business banking account. Here is a link that discusses being part-time self-employed in the UK.
Yes, you can open a Trading Account at one place and a Demat Account at another place. Therefore you can open Trading Account at Sharekhan and Demat Account at OBC. However, it would be more convenient for you if both the accounts are opened at the same place which would reduce unnecessary work after every transaction.
Generally speaking, most banks will require all of the signers on the account to be present.  However, and this is the big however, the signers do not necessarily need to be the same people as the members. You could have one of the members be the sole signer. You could have an outside accountant be the signer. Etc. Regardless of who your signers are (ie, even if they are the same as the members) you will absolutely need a resolution from the members giving the signers authority to be signers. So, for instance, if you personally will be present but the other member won't be, you will both need to sign the resolution appointing you as the signer.
I found out there is something called CDARS that allows a person to open a multi-million dollar certificate of deposit account with a single financial institution, who provides FDIC coverage for the entire account.  This financial institution spreads the person's money across multiple banks, so that each bank holds less than $250K and can provide the standard FDIC coverage.  The account holder doesn't have to worry about any of those details as the main financial institution handles everything.  From the account holder's perspective, he/she just has a single account with the main financial institution.
Are there banks where you can open a bank account without being a citizen of that country without having to visit the bank in person? I've done it the other way around, opened a bank account in the UK so I have a way to store GBP.  Given that Britain is still in the EU you can basically open an account anywhere.  German online banks for instance allow you to administrate anything online, should there be cards issued you would need an address in the country.  And for opening an account a passport is sufficient, you can identify yourself in a video chat.  Now what's the downside?  French banks' online services are in French, German banks' services are in German.  If that doesn't put you off, I would name such banks in the comments if asked. Are there any online services for investing money that aren't tied to any particular country? Can you clarify that?  You should at least be able to buy into any European or American stock through your broker.  That should give you an ease of mind being FCA-regulated.  However, those are usually GDRs (global depository receipts) and denominated in GBp (pence) so you'd be visually exposed to currency rates, by which I mean that if the stock goes up 1% but the GBP goes up 1% in the same period then your GDR would show a 0% profit on that day; also, and more annoyingly, dividends are distributed in the foreign currency, then exchanged by the issuer of the GDR on that day and booked into your account, so if you want to be in full control of the cashflows you should get a trading account denominated in the currency (and maybe situated in the country) you're planning to invest in. If you're really serious about it, some brokers/banks offer multi-currency trading accounts (again I will name them if asked) where you can trade a wide range of instruments natively (i.e. on the primary exchanges) and you get to manage everything in one interface.  Those accounts typically include access to the foreign exchange markets so you can move cash between your accounts freely (well for a surcharge).  Also, typically each subaccount is issued its own IBAN.
"It's generally not possible to open a business account in the UK remotely.  It's even difficult (near impossible) for a non-resident (even if a citizen) to open a business or personal bank account while visiting the UK. A recent report says that it may be possible to open an account via Barclays Offshore in the Isle of Man.  This requires a large deposit, and probably lots of paperwork and fees (most offshore locations have stricter ""know your customer"" rules than major countries). Note that while the Isle of Man is inside the UK banking system (for sort codes, account numbers), it is a separate territory that doesn't have the same deposit guarantees as the UK. There is no legal reason why a UK company has to bank within the UK banking system, although many companies paying the company would expect it or require it, and an account in anything other than sterling would complicate the accounts. It could have an account in your home country.   It's not even a legal requirement that the company has an account in its own name at all.  Some people use a (separate) personal account for this purpose.  There are plenty of reasons why this is a bad idea (for example it's unclear who/what owns the money in the account, and can give the appearance of director's loans), but it's a work-around.  Most inbound electronic payments only require a sort code and account number, the account owner name is not checked. The UK does have a much simpler and cheaper company registry than most European countries, but the near-impossibility of opening a bank account for a business in the UK as a non-resident has made it an unsuitable place to register a small international company."
"As your financial situation becomes more complex, it becomes increasingly more difficult to keep track of everything with a simple spreadsheet.  It is much easier to work with software that is specifically designed for personal finances. A good program will allow you to keep track of as many accounts as you want.  A great program will completely separate the different account balances (location of the money) from the budget category balances (purpose of the money).  Let me explain: When you set up the software, you will enter in all of your different bank accounts with their balances.  Perhaps you have three savings accounts and two checking accounts.  It doesn't matter.  When you are done entering those, the software will total them up, and the next job you have is assigning this money into different budget categories: your spending plan.  For example, you might put some of it into a grocery category, some into an entertainment category, some will be assigned to pay your next car insurance bill, and some will be an emergency fund.  (These categories are completely customizable, and your budget can be as broad or as detailed as you wish.)  When you deposit your paycheck, you assign that new income into budget categories as well.  It doesn't matter at this point which accounts your money are located in; the only thing that matters is that you own this money and you have access to it.  Now, you might want to use a certain account for a certain budget category, but you are not required to do so.  (For example, your grocery category money will probably be in your checking account, since you will be spending from it regularly.  Your emergency fund will hopefully be in an account that earns a little higher interest.) Once you take this approach, you might find you don't need as many bank accounts as you thought you did, because the software does the job of separating your money into different ""accounts"" for different purposes. I've written before about the different categories of personal finance software.  YNAB, Mvelopes, and EveryDollar are three examples of software that will take this approach of separating the concepts of the bank account and the budget category."
I would guess that's their response.    I could see a use for multiple accounts on a single number.  For example, I might want two different payment methods depending on if it's business related or personal.  Without someone doing data analysis, they probably never noticed it was happening.  And nobody on the design team thought of systematic fraud as a use case.
In the related Should I have separate savings accounts for various savings goals? I discovered the open source Budgeter courtesy of Richard Donkin. Budgeter accomplishes my aim with a minimum of fuss, and I have found it to be quite usable despite the author's self deprecating comments to the contrary. The chart below was built in about 10 minutes, half the time it's taken to write this post. Budgeter doesn't feature handy abilities like CSV/OFX importing or scheduled transactions, which would mean a fair bit of work for bringing in historical data, and it's expressly not designed for accounting or bookkeeping. However for the focussed application of tracking savings across multiple bucket categories and accounts I think it well worth evaluating.
"The standard double-entry approach would just be to create a Liability account for the loan, and then make a transfer from that account to your Asset (Savings) account when the loan proceeds are distributed to you. After that point, the loan doesn't ""belong"" to your Savings account in any way. Each account and transaction is tracked separately. So, you might for instance pay that loan back with a transfer from your Checking account, even though the initial disbursement arrived into your Savings account. In order to see how much of a loan you have remaining, you need to look at the loan's Liability account to see what transactions occurred in it and what its remaining balance is. It sounds like what you're really trying to accomplish is the idea of  ""earmarking"" or ""putting into an envelope"" certain assets for certain purposes. This kind of budgeting isn't really something that Gnucash excels at. It does have some budget features, but there's more about being able to see how actual expenses are to expected expenses for a reporting period, not about being able to ask ""How much 'discretionary' assets do I have left before I start hitting my 'emergency fund'"". The closest you get is splitting up your asset accounts into subaccounts as you suggest, in which case you can ""allocate"" funds for your specific purposes and make transfers between them as needed. That can work well enough depending on your exact goals, though it can sometimes make it a little trickier to reconcile with your actual bank statements. But there's not really an accounting reason to associate the ""emergency fund"" portion of your assets with the remaining balance of your loan; though there's nothing stopping you from doing so if that's what you're trying to do. Accounting answers questions like ""How much have I spent on X in the past?"" and ""How much do I own right now?"". If you want to ask ""How much am I allowed to spend on X right now?"" or ""Am I likely to run out of money soon?"", you may want a budgeting tool rather than an accounting tool."
You mention you have an LDD. If your income is below a certain threshold (as of today, 19 255 € a year for a single person; quite likely if you're just a student), then you can open a Livret d'épargne populaire (in short, LEP). It works almost exactly the same as a Livret A / LDD, except that: Just like a Livret A / LDD: You should fill it up first before putting money in your LDD (assuming your Livret Jeune is maxed out, they have typically a higher rate than the LEP). If your bank is anything like mine, the very existence of the LEP is not very well-advertised, and I found that not many people are even aware that they exist. PS: The French administration's website has a whole section dedicated to financial matters. It's usually very clear and detailed. I advise you to check it out.
You can find a lot of information at the HRMC website at http://hmrc.gov.uk.  If you don't want to work as an employee, you can register as self-employed (basically a one-man band), which is quite simple, you can start your own company, which is more work but can have tax advantages, or you can find umbrella companies which will officially employ you while in reality you are a freelancer and only do your billing through them.  Umbrella companies can be anywhere from totally legal to extremely dodgy. If they promise you that you pay only five percent tax on your income through ingenious tricks, that's only until the tax office finds out and they will make you pay.  Between self-employed and your own company, the big difference is whether you are actually working independently or not. If you work like an employee (take someone else's orders) and claim you are a company, the tax office doesn't like that. And if you pay very little taxes, they don't like that either. So self-employed is the safer choice but you will pay more taxes, close to what a normal employee would pay. Obviously you will have to pay tax on your income and NHS insurance.  Obviously you are required to tell the government (actually HMRC) about your income. Not doing so would be tax evasion and get you into deep trouble when you are caught.  I don't think you have to tell them the source of your income, but not telling them might look very suspicious and might get your accounts checked carefully. And unless you design a website for the mafia, why wouldn't you tell them? The bill payer will try to deduct your bill from their profits anyway, so it's no secret.  Most important to remember: When you send out a bill and receive payment, you'll have to pay tax on it. When self employed, as a rule of thumb put one third away into a savings account for your tax bill. Don't spend it all or you will find yourself in deep trouble when your taxes need paying. Plus put some more away for times when you can't find work.
"Excellent question.  I'm not aware of one. I was going to say ""go visit some personal finance blogs"" but then I remembered that I write on one, and that I often get a commission if I talk about online accounts, so unless something is really bad I'm not going to post on it because I want to make money, not chase it away. This isn't to say that I'm biased by commissions, but among a bunch of online banks paying pretty much the same (crappy) interest rate and giving pretty much the same (often not crappy) service, I'm going to give air time to the ones that pay the best commissions.  That, and some of the affiliate programs would kick me out if I trashed them on my blog. This also would taint any site, blog or not, that does not explicitly say that they do not have affiliate relationships with the banks they review. I suppose if you read enough blogs you can figure out the bad ones by their absence, but that takes a lot of time.  Seems like you'd do all right by doing a ""--bank name-- sucks"" Google search to dig up the dirt. That, or call up / e-mail / post on their forum any questions you have about their services before sending them your money.  If they're up front, they'll answer you."
"ITR1 or ITR2 needs to be filed. Declare the income through freelancing in the section ""income from other sources"""
IANAL, I am married to someone in your situation. As a US citizen age 26 who has not had any contact with the IRS, you should most definitely be worried... As a US citizen, you are (and always have been) required to file a US tax return and pay any tax on all income, no matter where earned, and no matter where you reside.  There are often (but not always) agreements between governments to reduce double taxation.  The US rule as to whether a particular type of income is taxable will prevail. As a US citizen with financial accounts (chequing, saving, investment, etc.) above a minimum balance, abroad, you are required to report information, including the amounts in the account, to the US government annually (Look up FBAR).  Failure to file these forms carries harsh penalties. A recent law (FATCA) requires foreign financial institutions to report information on their US citizen clients to the US, irrespective of any local banking privacy laws.  It's possible that your application triggered these reporting requirements. You will not be allowed to renounce your US citizenship until you have paid all past US taxes and penalties. Good new:  you are eligible in ten years or so to run for President. Don't believe any of this, or that nothing has been missed; you must consult with a local tax expert specializing in US/UK tax laws.