vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Putting aside whether that characterization is reasonable, it doesn't follow from what Speckles said. He is suggesting that PayPal shutting people out of its own service would make alternatives to that service *more* of a fringe thing. I don't see how.
Nationwide Flex Account lets you receive money internationally for free, but you have to pay to send it. It meets all your other criteria.
&gt; pay a premium to the enthusiastically complicit exchanges for the privilege of scalping those that do not.  I'm assuming you're talking about colocation. Can you tell me how colos enable them to scalp participants without a colo? Give me a breakdown.
There is no special activity type (or provider) for this situation. Depending on the car rental agency, it is either a normal charge, and they later return the charge as necessary; or it is a normal authorization (like in a restaurant) that does never get confirmed (so it falls off the credit card after about three days).
"NN doesn't have to do with what your describing.  But let's follow your thought scenario: Why should ISPs be allowed to charge twice for the same service? The ""free delivery"" you listed isn't free. I as a consumer already pay for it. And I choose who gets my traffic. Why should ISPs be allowed to then also charge companies? Why should they be allowed to choose whose content I want to have use the service I pay for? If you don't like Amazon don't pay Amazon with your traffic. Or Google. They ""rely"" on your desire to use them via the service you pay for."
"I would think it extremely unlikely that an issuer would cancel your card for having an ADB of approximately zero. The issuer charges the vendor that accepts a card a percentage of the transaction (usually up to ~3%, AMEX is generally higher) - so they are making money even if you carry no balance on your card (the specific language for various vendor-side (acceptor) credit card agreements boils down to ""we are essentially giving you, the vendor, a short-term loan and you will pay us for it). This why you see credit-card minimum purchase amounts at places like hot-dog stands - they're getting nailed on the percentage.  This is also why, when given the choice between ""Debit or Credit"" for a particular card, I choose where to put the hit on the company I like less - the retailer or the bank."
You have no grounds for a refund. The flight took off on time, and you chose not to be on board. The fact that the airline could not guarantee ahead of time that the flight would leave on time is not relevant. You can certainly try to dispute the charge with the airline, and it sounds like you have done so. The airline correctly indicates that your dispute is unfounded. You can call up your credit card company and explain the situation, and they may accept your dispute. However, I am not aware of any credit card that would reimburse you (that is, issue a chargeback) in this situation. I'm not trying to be unsympathetic. It sucks that you felt you could not rely on the airline, and are now out some money. Fundamentally, though, this was your choice. The airline would be obligated to reimburse you the cost of your flight, or book you on another flight, if the flight was cancelled due to bad weather or other issues, but they owe you nothing if the flight took off on schedule.
"Happy cake-day!  The gap/disconnect in your argument is that the ""legal tender"", i.e., the money *itself*, is debt.   Whether you use green pieces of paper, or yellow metal discs, or a credit-card authorization, you are not giving the seller a pair of shoes to wear, or putting braces on their kids, or fixing their roof for them. You are giving them an IOU, a marker, that they can redeem for that stuff.   ""Legal tender"" just means debt that anyone will redeem. When you give someone a dollar, it is exactly the same as giving them a hand-written IOU that says ""bearer entitled to one pack of gum"" (or one cheeseburger, or one  can of coke, or 1/40,000th of a Mercedes, or whatever). The only difference between your handwritten promise to make good on demand versus a printed dollar bill, is in the credibility of issuing authority, and the willingness of other people to accept it.   &gt; You can come into my store and I can insist that today I'll only accept euros. Or jelly beans. Or I can choose to simply not do business with you. We are two free people who are under no obligation to do business with each other, and if we choose to, how we choose to remunerate each other for that business is completely up to us.  This is absolutely true. If I trade you a head of cabbage for a pair of shoelaces, there is no money involved, and no debt."
We buy data various providers (sharadar and quotemedia to name a few) and to answer your second question how we pay for it — with credit card :-)  If you mean where we take money from; from our personal budgets. We want to introduce subscriptions in future but what is free currently will stay free forever (at least thats our plan).
An order is not a transaction.  It is a request to make a transaction.  If the transaction never occurs (e.g. because you cancel the order), then no fees should be charged. will I get the stamp duty back (the 0.5% tax I paid on the shares purchase) when I sell the shares? I'm not a UK tax expert, but accorging to this page is seems like you only pay stamp tax when you buy shares, and don't get it back when you sell (but may be responsible for capital gains taxes).  That makes sense, because there's always a buyer and a seller, so if you got the tax back when you sold, the tax would effectively be transferred from the buyer to the seller, and the government would never collect anything.
You can report the violation to the payment network (i.e., Mastercard or Visa).  For instance here is a report form for Visa and here is one for MasterCard.  I just found those by googling; there are no doubt other ways of contacting the companies. Needless to say, you shouldn't expect that this will result in an immediate hammer of justice being brought down on the merchant.  Given the presence of large-scale fraud schemes, it's unlikely Visa is going to come after every little corner store owner who charges a naughty 50-cent surcharge.  It is also unlikely that threatening to do this will scare the merchant enough to get them to drop the fee on your individual transaction.  (Many times the cashier will be someone who has no idea how the process actually works, and won't even understand the threat.)  However, this is the real solution in that it allows the payment networks to track these violations, and (at least in theory) they could come after the merchant if they notice a lot of violations.
sorry, I didn't know how to do the thing about getting around a pay wall and I also couldn't find the article from a different source.  Me being me, I tend to look at it as spreading information either way, as unperfect as my own method is.
If this is a pre-authorized automatic billing, and if you have signed any contract with the  merchant, cancelling may not block any future charges from the merchant.  Happens with gyms, magazines, memberships quite often. There is a time period after the cancellation this will occur, then it'll be completely dead.
Just because you think it is healthy to get away from the computer and physically go to a bookstore does not make it good business. By that rationale, you should be paying all of your bills at the post office with a stamp.
Suppose you have been paying interest on previous charges in the past. Your monthly statement is issued on April 12, and (since you just received your income tax refund), you pay it off in full on April 30.  You don't charge anything to the card at all after April 12.  Thus, on April 30, your credit card balance  shows as zero since you just paid it off.  But your April 12 statement billed you for interest only till April 12.  So, on May 12, your next monthly bill will be for the interest for your nonzero balance from April 13 through April 30. Assuming that you still are not making any new charges on your card and pay off the May 12 bill in timely fashion, you will finally have a zero bill on June 12. What if you charge new items to your credit card after April 12? Well, your balance stopped revolving on April 30, and that's when interest is no longer charged on the new charges. But you do owe interest for a charge on April 13 (say) until April 30 when your balance is no longer revolving, and this will be added to your bill on May 12. Purchases made after April 30 will not be charged interest unless you fall off the wagon again and don't pay your May 12 bill in full by the due date of the bill (some time in early June).
This could be a case of the new chip card technology and dealing with slow reimbursement turnaround time. I recently visited a restaurant who was not using the chip technology, and it refused my card after several attempts. I found out from my bank it was because the restaurant was not set up for chip and I had not eaten there before....I know at the other end it takes far longer for the funds to get to the merchant; banks don't want to part with other people's money.
Payment processors get a fee when you make a payment through their system. So by encouraging you to use their cards more, they make more money. In the specific case of contactless cards, they see an opportunity to grow their market by displacing cash payments. So they're advertising it heavily to help that along.
"Hahahahaa! Oh man, this is hilarious. Are you going to try and explain a debit and credit to me next?  &gt;There's a huge distinction between a company that is generating no sales, and a company that is generating no profit.  I must have missed that part in your heavily nuanced comment about ""making money."""
As AskAboutGadgets notes, there's no lower age limit.  You current age (24) is a pretty good one; you'll have four decades or so for your money to grow and compound, allowing it to become a veritable fortune when you're ready to retire if you invest it fairly aggressively.
I’ve been in the mortgage business for nearly 15 years.  Your question is sort of multi-faceted and I’m surprised by some of these answers I’ve read! Anyway, I digress.   Yes, you can be denied even if you have money for a down payment.  One of the BIGGEST factors lenders are now required to take into account when approving mortgages now is a person’s “Ability to Repay.”   Whether your traditional mortgages like Conventional, FHA, USDA, or VA loans, or even an “in-house” mortgage from a local bank —either way, the lender MUST be able to verify someone’s ability to repay.   Your issue is that you won’t have any verifiable income until May.  A couple people have answered correctly in that 1) if you have a firm offer letter that can be verified with the employer, and 2) you can use your education/college to substitute for a two year work history as long as you’re graduating with and working in the same line of work. Some programs require proof of 30 days of pay history once you actually start earning paychecks; some programs will use the offer letter as long as you will start earning paychecks within a certain number of days after the note date (basically when the payments start). Also I’m making the assumption that there is some sort of credit history that can be verified.  Most lenders want at least a couple of accounts reporting a history just to show good use of credit and showing that you can manage your finances over a longer period of time. Just about every lender has some sort of minimum FICO score requirement.  I hope this helps. If you have questions, just reply in a comment.
I've been a mortgage broker for almost 20 years.  I get people loans all of the time thru FHA and Conventional (Fannie Mae) with just one year work history; however, as a student, you must submit your school transcripts and your major needs to be in line with your current job.  I'm closing a guy next week that has only been in his job for 8 months but he just graduated with his Masters in Biology.  He's currently a wild life manager and the underwriter signed off on it easily.
"To explain why you have to be 18: If you are not 18, then any contract that you sign can be voided (made invalid) by either you or your parents. So it would be completely legal for you to go to the bank, ask for a $1000 loan, and for the bank to give you the loan. But then you could spend the money, and tell the bank ""sorry, I changed my mind, I don't want that loan, and sorry again, but the money is gone"". At that point, there would be nothing the bank could do to get their money back.  Obviously, banks don't like this, so they won't lend you money."
Is she correct in that you generally can't even apply until the cash   transaction is complete? Probably. How can you commit to mortgage something you do not own? Makes sense for them to wait not even until the transaction is complete - but until the transaction is recorded. Is 45 days reasonable to complete the financing? Yes.
See the article Age of Majority and Trust Termination. The site happens to be college related, but the chart offering age at which the minor takes control of the custodial account, by state should help address your question. For NY, it's 21, not 18. Same in my state. For custodial accounts we have for our daughter, she can show ID and take over at 21 if she wishes. Both smart enough to know she can, and wise enough to put the transfer off.
The applicant should be a Singaporean or a permanent resident or a foreigner. The minimum income requirement for a Singaporean or PR is generally S$20,000 p.a. and S$40,000 p.a. for a foreigner. **When are personal loans ideal for renovation?** There are a few situations when a personal loan is the best option for renovating your rented property: Many banks give personal loans with attractive promotions such as interest-free loan for a certain period. You can take this loan and even repay the full amount before the zero-interest period expires. This will help you save efficiently on your renovation project. The minimum income required to secure a home loan is generally higher than the income requirement for a personal loan. Hence, a personal loan is a better option. A home loan generally gives a higher sum of money than a personal loan. This high amount is suitable for a construction project but will be excessive for renovation work. Therefore, it makes more sense to apply for a personal loan to give the perfect makeover to the kitchenette in your home. The approval process for a home loan is typically very lengthy. Personal loan applications get approved within 24 hours by most banks in Singapore. So now you can apply for a personal loan without any tension and remodel your balcony to have a party at home sweet home! Personal loan rates are generally lower than home loan rates. You can refurbish your living space by paying your loan at an interest rate not more than 4%. Now, you would have got a fair idea about how to finance your remodelling work. Always remember to enquire about every loan’s terms and conditions. Never sign any loan contract without being absolutely clear about the loan’s features.
"By law, if the account was a ""minor by"", also called a ""custodian"" account, it automatically transfers to you once you reach the age of majority in your state, which I gather from your post is 18. Once you turn 18, all you should need to withdraw money is a state or federal government issued photo-ID, like a drivers license or a military ID, same as you would need for any other bank withdrawal at a teller. Or, an ATM card & PIN if you wanted to use an ATM."
It's illegal to discriminate against a borrower based on age, just like it is skin color, ethnicity, etc.  Plus if/when the borrower dies a life insurance policy is likely in place to cover the mortgage, or the house will be sold, etc.
Prior to that though you need to have enough income to afford the mortgage on your own. So, what that means is that qualifying for a loan is highly related to your debt to income ratio. If your properties are self sustaining and you still work 40 hours a week then your ability to qualify in the future shouldn't be all that impacted. If anything it shows that you are a responsible credit manager. Conclusion I can't stress enough to do YOUR OWN research. Don't go off of what your friends are telling you. People exaggerate to make them seem like they are higher on the socioeconomic ladder then they really are. They also might have chicken little syndrome and try to discourage you from making a really great choice. I run into this all the time. People feel like they can't do something or they're to afraid so you shouldn't be able to either. If you need advice go to a professional or read a book. Good luck!"
"As a legal contract, a mortgage is a form of secured debt. In the case of a mortgage, the debt is secured using the property asset as collateral. So ""no"", there is no such thing as a mortgage contract without a property to act as collateral. Is it a good idea?  In the current low interest rate environment, people with good income and credit can obtain a creditline from their bank at a rate comparable to current mortgage rates.  However, if you wish to setup a credit line for an amount comparable to a mortgage, then you will need to secure it with some form of collateral."
Depends on where we are in the credit cycle. When banks are scared like in 07 to 11, good luck.  Now (13), they'll probably start begging you.  There are more regulations that prevent it now, but they'll probably be eased as they usually are during good times. If the banks won't help you, private investors might.  Just find your local mortgage investor club.
FTA  &gt; In late July, the San Francisco-based bank lowered the minimum credit score on these fixed-rate jumbo mortgages to 700 from 720,  For comparison with the bubble years, mortgages were being issued to those with FICO scores under 620.
If I was bank, I certainly wouldn't give a **30 year** mortgage to a **57 year old** with a property which is worth less than the mortgage!  And I don't see why a bank should.  I get that it sucks for him to have a 6.35% interest mortgage, but that situation sucks for the bank as well.  I wouldn't offer a lower interest to someone in that sort of situation.
"GreenLight offers a paid service for $5 per month that requires an adult primary account holder, and then unlimited accounts, including minors, as part of that service. I saw no minimum age requirement (see section ""Minors as Sub-Account Cardholders""). https://www.greenlightcard.com/index.html Disclaimer: I haven't tried this service"
In the UK, the Osper card would do the trick exactly. The closest thing I can find in the US is the USAA Youth accounts which appear to be what you need but have some restrictions on mobile access until the youth is 13.
You can get the number you want pretty easily by plugging some numbers in to a mortgage calculator like this one.   Set the PMI and property tax to 0 and set your term to the duration you need.  Then plug in numbers until your payment amount equals your monthly budget.  Think of yourself as the bank in this process. I started at 1mil over 25 years and that was over my budget so went down to 800k which was under just a bit, and found that you need about 850k based on your numbers.
"The advantage of using a mortgage is that you pay for a house at TODAY's price, using TOMORROW's money. Your question suggests that you rightly observed that it was not a good idea around 2006 (the last peak in housing). That was when prices were at their maximum, and had nowhere to go but down. Some experts think that house prices STILL have further to go on the downside. Meanwhile, wages have been going nowhere during that time. This phenomenon seems to happen about every 40 years or so, the 1930s, the 1970s, and around 2010. At MOST other times, say the 1980s, houses are likely to go up for the ""foreseeable"" future. At those times, you want to buy the house at ""today's"" price, then pay for it in future dollars when you are earning more money. The irony is that what most people observe as teenagers is usually the wrong thing to do when they are, say, forty. In 2035, it will probably make sense to have a large mortgage in a bull housing market, which is the opposite of what you observed around 2010. So a better rule is to do at age 40 what made sense about the time you were born (in your case, perhaps the 1990s). Whereas the people born in the early 1970s that got ""caught"" recently, observed the bull market of the 1980s and 1990s in THEIR teens and twenties, rather than the bear market of the 1970s that took place about the time they were born."
In theory - Yes. So as long as someone will accept you as a (very) mature student, you plan to never earn over 21k a year for the next 30 years (no longer wiped out at 65), you could get a loan, slightly unethically (unless you fancy doing the course). Also if you did have to start paying it back - since interest rates are currently 6.1% this means the loan is doubling potentially just under every 12 years (approx) As to the side question of is it fraud?  I couldn't say.  Is a student getting maximum loans but planning on being a jobless bum for the rest of their lives and never paying back loans also committing fraud?  One could argue Yes, but i don't believe a lack of ambition is currently illegal.
It's never too early, but age 3 is when we started a piggy bank.  Age 4 is when we opened a bank account. When you go shopping with your children, discuss what items cost (such as bread, milk, books, etc.) Start teaching them that everything has a value...then relate it to how much they have saved.  Kids need to learn 3 basic things from their parents:  how to save/invest, how to spend wisely, how to share/donate
First you need to ensure that you are not violating any Federal child labor laws. I would look at this: U.S. Dept of Labor, Wage & Hour Div., Standards for 14- and 15-Year Olds in Nonagricultural Employment. These were the items that pertained to Federal Law, for 14 year olds: 14 is the minimum age for employment in specified occupations outside   of school hours for limited periods of time each day and each week.   Fourteen- and 15-Year-Olds May Not Be Employed: There is a section on minimum allowed wage payment to young workers, and also a list of allowed types of work for 14 and 15 year old's. The type of household helper tasks described definitely fell within what was allowed for child labor. The same page details what sort of forms need to be filled out. I think this is something that is done quite commonly. Here are specifics in New York State for minimum wage for minors and for employing 14 year olds.
Your 5-8 year time frame is interesting because it is actually a two windows.  When people are savings for retirement, they tell us how many years or decades they have until they reach retirement age. But they also imply that they are planning on spending decades withdrawing the money.  But you wanting the money for a house in 5-8 years are needing the money more like somebody who is saving college money for a teenager. In fact your plan is similar in time frame as a 13 year old has for their college fund; start in 5 years but only have a 4 year spending window. Take the California 529 program: Beneficiary Age 13-14: Beneficiary Age 18+: The funding agreement provides a minimum guaranteed rate of return on the >amounts allocated to it by the Investment Portfolio. The minimum effective >annual interest rate will be neither less than 1% nor greater than 3% at >any time. So you plan of investing 100% in the S&P with your window is way too risky. You should only invest a portion of your down payment in equities, and be prepared to only be in that mode for a few years. Any drop in the market now hurts you, but one just before you need the funds would be devastating.