vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
No one has said this specifically yet, but you're more likely to avoid the kinds of problems that concern you by choosing makes and models of vehicle that are known to be reliable.  Honda is well-known for the reliability of their cars, so definitely consider them. @MrChrister mentioned Consumer Reports--they are an excellent resource for buying new and/or used cars. @Natashska made a great point about dealers vs. private sellers.  To that point I'll add the following:
If 10K is all of your savings, I would reserve a portion for an emergency fund for your car and other life situations before spending it all on a car. Maybe this means you set 3k aside and buy a 7k car.
I tend to agree with Rocky's answer.  However it sounds like you want to look at this from the numbers side of things.  So let's consider some numbers: I'm assuming you have the money to buy the new car available as cash in hand, and that if you don't buy the car, you'll invest it reasonably.  So if you buy the new car today, you're $17K out of pocket.  Let's look at some scenarios and compare.  Assuming: If you buy the new car today, then after 1 year you'll have: If you keep the old car, after 1 year you get: After 2 years, you have: And after 3 years, you're at: Or in other words, nothing depletes the value of your assets faster than buying the new car. After 1 year, you've essentially lost $5K to depreciation.    However, over the short term the immediate cost of the tires combined with the continued depreciation of the old car do reduce your purchasing power somewhat (you won't be able to muster $25K towards a new car without chipping in a bit of extra cash), and inflation will tend to drive the cost of the new car up as time goes on.  So the relative gap between the value of your assets and the cost of the new car tends to increase, though it stays well below the $5k that you lose to depreciation if you buy the new car immediately.  Which is something that you could potentially spin to support whichever side you prefer, I suppose. Though note that I've made some fairly pessimistic assumptions.  In particular, the current U.S. inflation rate is under 1%, and a new car may depreciate by as much as 25% in the first year while older cars may depreciate by less than the 8% assumed.  And I selected the cheapest new car price cited, and didn't credit the tires with adding any value to your old car.  Each of those aspects tends to make continuing to drive the older car a better option than buying the new one.
"On top of the given answers, the type of referral will also factor in. When you're up for renewal and go to a comparison site (in the UK: CompareTheMarket, MoneySupermarket, Confused, GoCompare, ... ) and struggle accurately through all their lists of questions, you see that some of the data differs (e.g., not all the same jobs can be entered; if you have had an accident, not all ask whose fault it was and/or don't leave the option ""not yet resolved"" --possibly forcing you to guess which way it will be adjudicated,-- and/or what the total repair cost was). So as these referrers feed slightly different data to roughly the same set of insurance providers, you will get slightly different quotes on the same providers. And expect your own provider to offer a slightly better quote than you'll get in reality for renewing: The referrer's (one-time) cut has to be still taken off, but they count it as a new client so somebody gets a bonus for that --- you they disregard as a captive client and give what boils down to a loyalty penalty. [Case in point: I had an unresolved car accident, resolved months later in my favour. With all honest data including unresolved claim and its cost and putting my 'accident-free years' factor at 0 instead of 7, my old provider quoted about 8% more than the previous year on comparison sites; but my renewal papers quoted me 290% more, upon telephone enquiry the promised to refund the difference if court found in my favour though they refused to give this in writing. So: No thanks!] Then the other set of referrals they get is from you directly going to their website asking for a quote. They know what type of link you've followed (banner, or google result, etc), they may know some info from your browser's cookies (time spent where) or other tracking service, and from your data they may guess how tech-savvy and shop-wise you are, and scale your offer accordingly. [Comparison-site shoppers are lumped together at a relatively high savvy-level, of course!].
"Last week I bought a Toyota RAV4 XLE that comes with Driver Assist (will steer you car if you are not in the lane), stop the car is slower speed if you are about to hit another car or pedestrian, Radar to keep distance and avoid slowing cars in cruise control, automatic high beam, etc.  I called my insurance and asked if there are any discounts for all these safety features.  They said ""No!"", but I do get a discount of passive anti-theft which is now standard on almost every car.  It will take the insurance industry 10 years to start giving discounts for this new safety devices... because, meanwhile, they don't have to give discounts and keep all the money."
One more thing to favor the card. Extended warranty, or damage coverage. An iPad, if dropped on a hard surface, stands a good chance of breaking. Apple isn't going to cover that, as it's not a defect. Many credit cards offer free coverage for breakage of this type as well as doubling the warranty up to a year. This second year of coverage is worth about 10% of the item cost.  To be clear, I'm talking about running the expense through a card and paying in full, some call it credit no different than those who carry a balance month to month and pay 18% interest. I believe if I have the money to spend on an item, and use the card to get that coverage along with the benefits others posted, it's a convenience, nothing more. Some people who use certain budgeting methods like to set up a payment each week so the bill comes in close to zero. Whatever works.
There is no need to get an auto loan just to try and affect your credit score. It is possible to have a score over 800 without any sort of auto loan. If you can afford to pay for the vehicle up front that is the better option. Even with special financing incentives it is better to pay up front if you can. Yes it is possible to use the funds to make more if you finance with a silly low interest rate, however it's also possible to lose a job or have some other financial disaster happen and need that money for something else making it more difficult to make the payment.  It may be just me but I find the peace of mind not having the payment to be worth a lot.
We flew a driver to wherever the SUV was and then drove it back to Texas about 4 days later. The couple came back and hated the color, they would not take the SUV. The General Manager was pissed, he spent around $1000 just to bring the thing to Texas, not to mention he had to buy the thing. The couple walked and there was nothing the sales manager, GM, or salesman could do. We had not been able to deliver the car, and ultimately the dealership ate the loss, but it shows that deposits are useless. You can't sell something you don't own, and dealerships know it. Long story short, you can't claim a damage you never experienced. Not having something happen that you wanted to have happen is not a damage because you can't show a real economic loss. One other thing, When you sign the paperwork that you thought was an application, it was an authorization for them to pull your credit and the fine print at the bottom is boiler plate defense against getting sued for everything imaginable. Ours took up about half of one page and all of the back of the second page. I know dealing with car dealerships is hard, working at them is just as hard, and I'm sorry that you had to deal with it, however the simplest and smoothest car deals are the ones where you pay full price."
Nothing's generating a whole lot of interest right now.  But more liquid and stable is better (cash or cash-like). But a related question:  Why a new car?  You can knock thousands of dollars off of the price of a comparable vehicle by buying one that's one or two years old.  Your new vehicle loses thousands of dollars in value the moment it goes off the lot.
That's a very good point. As much as I love cars I'd be happy to have the choice of any high end car on demand at the touch of a button, and not have to maintain it or take the hit of depreciation.   The insurance premium then will be down to manufacturers or car suppliers, who are probably big enough to run their own insurance schemes.   In this scenario perhaps it doesn't bode well for Geico, unless they get into the car business.
"Let's assess the situation first, then look at an option: This leaves you with about $1,017/mo in cash flow, provided you spend money on nothing else (entertainment, oil changes, general merchandise, gifts, etc.) So I'd say take $200/mo off that as ""backup"" money. Now we're at $817/mo. Question: What have you been doing with this extra $800/mo? If you put $600/mo of that extra towards the 10% loan, it would be paid off in 12 months and you would only pay $508 in interest. If you have been saving it (like all the wisest people say you should), then you should have plenty enough to either pay for a new transmission or buy a ""good enough"" car outright. 10% interest rate on a vehicle purchase is not very good. Not sure why you have a personal loan to handle this rather than an auto loan, but I'll guess you have a low credit score or not much credit history. Cost of a new transmission is usually $1,700 - $3,500. Not sure what vehicle we're talking about, so let's make it $3,000 to be conservative. At your current interest rate, you'll have paid another $1,450 in interest over the next 33 months just trying to pay off your underwater car. If you take your old car to a dealership and trade it in towards a ""new to you"" car, you might be able to roll your existing loan into a new loan. Now, I'm not sure when you say personal loan if you mean an official loan from a bank or a personal loan from a friend/family-member, so that could make a difference. I'm also not sure if a dealership will be willing to recognize a personal loan in the transaction as I'd wager there's no lien against the vehicle for them to worry about. But, if you can manage it, you may be able to get a lower overall interest rate. If you can't roll it into a new financing plan, then you need to assess if you can afford a new loan (provided you even get approved) on top of your existing finances.
As a rule, purchasing fairly priced (minus a spread) insurance on items you can afford to replace is a bad idea. However, in addition to the points mentioned in the previous answers, one should note that many types of insurance are UNDERpriced because on average people do not make claims even though they are entitled to them.  If you purchase something moderately priced at Best Buy and get the extended warranty and it breaks down a year later, you will be unlikely to even remember that you purchased the insurance much less go through the trouble of making a claim.  More likely you will just go buy a replacement or whatever the latest and greatest iteration is.  It's like homeowner's insurance--an amazing number of things is covered but no one ever makes claims, so it is cheap.  If you are a person who remembers and utilizes warranties and insurance, there are many types of insurance that will save you money in expectation.   The other thing is that you know more about your own riskiness than the insurer does.  I had a girlfriend who bought super comprehensive insurance on her crappy old car.  I was quite stern with her about it but could not change her mind.  She totaled it a few months later.  They bought her a replacement.  She got in a more serious accident with that car and got yet another one in addition to payment of her medical care, which did not even go to her health care insurance.  Yes, her rates went up, but not fast enough to deal with how risky she was.  Another example: I used to carry an e-book reader around in my shirt pocket and read it any time I had a chance.  Cheap item and not that delicate, but since I had it with me all the time and used it constantly, it was a big risk for the store.  The extended warranty would have been a great idea. In short, avoid extended warranties and insurance on things you can afford to lose unless you know that you are high risk or are otherwise more likely than average to make a claim.
NO it was literally for one model while they needed a cheaper one before the model 3, this will never be part of their lineup again, and it was ONLY for a short period of time and ONLY on their cheapest car. Already discontinued, it's not what they do.
As mhoran_psprep and others have already said, it sounds like the sale is concluded and your son has no obligation to return the car or pay a dime more. The only case in which your son should consider returning the car is if it works in his favor--for example, if he is able to secure a similar bargain on a different car and the current dealer buys the current car back from your son at a loss. If the dealer wants to buy the car back, your son should first get them to agree to cover any fees already incurred by your son. After that, he should negotiate that the dealer split the remaining difference with him. Suppose the dealership gave a $3000 discount, and your son paid $1000 in title transfer, registration, and any other fees such as a cashier's check or tax, if applicable. The remaining difference is $2000. Your son should get half that.  In this scenario, the dealer only loses half as much money, and your son gains $1000 for his trouble.
One point I don't see above: Consumer's Union (the nonprofit which publishes Consumer Reports) has a service where, for a small fee, they'll send you information about how much the car and each option cost the dealer, how much the dealer is getting back in incentive money from the manufacturer,  and some advice about which features are worthwhile, which aren't, and which you should purchase somewhere other than the dealer.  Armed with that info, you can discuss the price on an equal footing, negotiating the dealer's necessary profit rather than hiding it behind bogus pricing schemes. Last time I bought a new car, I got this data, walked into the dealer with it visible on my clipboard, offered them $500 over their cost, and basically had the purchase nailed down immediately.  It helped that I as willing to accept last year's model and a non-preferred color; that helped him clear inventory and encouraged him to accept the offer. ($500 for 10 minutes' work selling to me, or more after an hour of playing games with someone else plus waiting for that person to walk in the door  -- a good salesman will recognize that I'm offering them a good deal. These days I might need to adjust that fair-profit number up a bit; this was about 20 years ago on an $8000 car... but I'm sure CU's paperwork suggests a current starting number.) It isn't quite shelf pricing. But at least it means any haggling is based on near-equal knowledge, so it's much closer to being a fair game.
Warranties are usually sold at 60-90% margin. They are just about always a bad deal. If you are forced to buy one, negotiate on price, and be wary of realtor or mortgage broker recommendations.
That's a very biased and narrow article. Only thing preventing me from buying one is their really mediocre interiors. It doesn't feel like the interior matches the price range. My Mercedes has a better interior in the same price bracket.   Also when you do the math, in my state you don't come out ahead for the premium you pay. Even after the incentives kick in. Also the lease buy back value is a lot lower than the ones on my Mercedes. When you put all these things together, it's still better to get a MB/BMW/Audi/Lexus/Infiniti
It sounds like you're putting all your extra money into insurances because you feel that one can never have too much insurance. That's a very bad idea, financially. Basically it means you'll end up giving your money away to insurance companies in order to satisfy that feeling. Do realize that the expected value of every instuance is negative: on average, you'll pay more money than you'll receive. Otherwise, insurance companies would go bankrupt, so they are very good at ensuring that they get more in premiums than they pay out. Insurance should only be bought to cover essential risks, things that would ruin you: major health problems, death (to cover dependants), disability, liability. For everything else, you should self-insure by saving up money (up to a few months' wages) and putting it into safe and liquid investment vehicles as an emergency fund. That way, you are much more flexible, don't pay for the insurance company's employees, fancy offices and profits, and may even earn some interest.
"I usually recommend along these lines.  If you are going to drive the same car for many years, then buy. Your almost always better to buy, and then drive a car for 10 years than to lease and replace it every 2 years. If you want a new car every two years then lease. You're usually better off leasing if you're going to replace the car before the auto loan is paid off or shortly there after. Also you can get ""more car"" for the same monthly money via leasing. I honestly would advise you to either buy out your lease, or buy a barely used car. Then drive it for as long as you can. Take the extra money you would spend and spend it on an awesome vacation or something.  Also, if you're only driving 15 miles a day, then get a cheap, but solid car. Again, just my advice."
For me, the two reviews made me reconsider my interest in Tesla, which makes them quite unfavorable.  Even if Tesla takes care of the issue quickly and gave me a loaner, it's still hours if not a day that I wouldn't have a drivable car.  And I'd have had to call customer support, wait, be there when the car is picked up for service, etc.  All while waiting to go to work/store/for a drive with family.  I'd much prefer to own a car that just didn't get problems for the first few years.  Looking at other people's experience with Camries and Priuses and even Malibus, (and my admittedly short experience with our own Camry so far), that's not an unreasonable expectation.  Since these two reviews switched me from being interested in Tesla to being apprehensive, I'd say that they were quite unfavorable.
I believe one of the main reasons cars -- luxury or otherwise -- depreciate so quickly is that many auto accidents can cause serious engine/frame damage but are easily cosmetically repaired.  If you smash up the car but get the body fixed, and you don't go through insurance, it will be indistinguishable from the same car that hasn't been in a crash.
"Right, I was just pointing out that ""better"" doesn't automatically mean ""more reliable."" There are other things to consider when choosing a car, that's all. But if I wasn't into cars you can bet your ass I'd be in a Camry! It's a no-brainer."
Bingo.   The problem is most people associate the warranty as “warranty vs. total replacement” ($300 now vs. $3,500 later) instead of “warranty vs. repair” ($300 now vs. potentially $300 later). The fun part is when they still charge you.   Edit: Your grandma has had the same appliances for 15+ years without needing any repairs.
I have an eight year old Kia Spectra that my wife is after me to replace -- but it hadn't been giving me any trouble at all.  Soon after she started telling me I should replace it soon it started having problems; compressor, tires, and so on.  How did she know? Anyway, so now I'm looking -- not ready to buy yet, but I'm looking.  The reason I won't be leasing is mileage.  I live 45 miles from where I work, so with incidental driving, I put at least 100 miles a day on a car.  That's about 26,000 miles a year if I do nothing but drive back and forth to work. On a monthly basis the lease is advertised as being less than most payments, but that is with a mileage limitation.  Since most leases I've looked at top out the mileage well below that mark I won't be leasing. I am looking at the new cars that are available now -- but I don't plan on buying until next year, and buying a lightly used car that is only a year to two old.  So I'm looking at what I will be buying while I can still find information about them. So yeah, mileage is a strong reason why I'm not considering leasing.
"This is a generic answer to this question, since I believe the UK requirements mean you have no choice in this particular situation. Ask yourself this question: If the boat sank, would you buy another boat? If the answer to that is ""yes"" then insurance is often worthwhile."
The government telling china that coffee pots need to be a certain specification is really irrelevant. The issue would resolve itself because no one would by the coffee pots. Once this became a known problem, stores would take it off the shelves and no longer sell it. We have cars that are recalled left and right. Car seats for infants and toddlers that are recalled every year. So on and so forth. I know the federal government has a recall process, but usually its the manufacturer that will announce the recall first. If there is a bad product out there, it will die out and no longer be made available for purchase. I don't see the the federal government slapping regulations on car manufacturers that mandate ""all tires must not fall off of the car while in motion"". No. Instead, the manufacturer, who is in the business of making money, which they need to sell cars to make money, would create a car where the tires are not likely to ever fall off while a car is in motion (or even when idle). The last thing I want to touch on is the Obamacare mandate. If I don't want something, why am I being forced to pay for it? Why do you agree with this? I am already paying into social security and I wish I wasn't. I will make my own investments with my income to prepare for retirement. Why should I pay for health insurance if I don't want it. The government should not be making my life choices for me. I have one responsibility on this earth as it pertains to my behavior. That is to respect others inalienable rights such as the right to life, liberty, property, and the pursuit of happiness. As long as I do not harm someone in an immoral way (e.g. steal, kill, physical harm, property damage, disclose personally identifiable information, etc), I should be free to live my life without government interference. I am fine with paying into a system for true welfare cases. Some people fall into bad situations that they could not help. Some people are born into a terrible situation. Those people need help.