vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
This is the reason why you may not be sued at all (if they calculate that it is not worth it), and also why they may offer you a settlement for a lesser amount (because is saves the cost of suing and the risk that they won't be able to get you to pay). The amount you mentioned (several thousand dollars) may be small enough for it to be not worth it. Another thing is the statute of limitations I mentioned earlier, which varies by state and is several years long. If they sue you after the statute of limitations passes, then you can raise the statute of limitations and get the lawsuit dismissed. So basically, after this amount of time passes, you are pretty much free from this debt. Note that the statute of limitations ""resets"" if you acknowledge the debt, which includes paying any amount on the debt or agreeing that you owe them this debt. So if the collection agency ever offers you benefits if you just sign a promissory note, or just pay a token amount, don't fall for the trap -- they are trying to reset the statute of limitations. Even though it's true that you owe them the debt, never let them hear you acknowledging it, unless it's part of a final settlement. Finally, if they get a judgment against you and you don't want them to have the ability to take your money indefinitely in the future until the debt is satisfied, there may be the option of bankruptcy. However, a few thousand dollars may not be worth the cost and negative consequences of bankruptcy, since as a young man you should be able to earn that amount quickly whenever you start working."
Some things you should consider: Balance Transfer Debt Consolidation If you get approved for the Citibank 2 year interest free credit card on balance transfers, you will need another loan of $18K to consolidate your other debt. If you cannot get approval for the credit card you may need to get consolidation loan approval for your full $35K of debt. This approval again will depend on your income and your ability to make repayments. As it sounds like you don't have any assets, you may have to get an unsecured loan which comes with higher interest rates. Remember a consolidation loan is only worthwhile if you can get an interest rate lower than your current interest rates and if you pay as much as possible to reduce the term of the loan and the total interest you end up paying. You haven't given the interest rate for the consolidation loan, but lets assume you could get one at 12% p.a. over a 3 year period. For a loan of $18K you would have to pay $138 per week. Together with the $163.50 per week you would have to pay the credit card balance transfer, your total repayments per week for the first 2 years would be $301.50, then $138 per week for the 3rd year. This option sounds affordable, but without knowing what your income and current expenses are it is hard for others to determine for sure. If you had to get a consolidated loan for the full $35K at say 12% p.a. then your weekly repayments would be $268.30 over a 3 year period. This looks to be achievable too. Being Disciplined As you said you will need to be very disciplined in order to get out of this debt. You will need to set up a proper budget and watch every dollar you spend. You will need to restrict any spending on credit cards and getting any new personal loans. You say you will keep a small credit limit to pay for ongoing online payments for courses. Make sure you uses a 55 day interest free credit card (preferably with no annual fee) for this and pay the full amount due every month, so you don't end up paying any more interest on this card. In case of death would my debts pass on to my next of kin or family?
Mathwise, I absolutely agree with the other answers.  No contest, you should keep getting the match.  But, just for completeness, I'll give a contrarian opinion that is generally not very popular, but does have some merit.   If you can focus on just one main financial goal at a time, and throw every extra dollar you have at that one focus (i.e., getting out of debt, in your case), you will make better progress than if you're trying to do too many things at once.  Also, there something incredibly freeing about being out of debt that has other beneficial impacts on your life. So, if you can bring a lot of focus to the credit card debt and get it paid off quickly, it may be worth deferring the 401(k) investing long enough to do that, even though it doesn't make as much mathematical sense.  (This is essentially what Dave Ramsey teaches, BTW.)
As someone with a lot of student loan debt, I can relate - the first thing you should do is read the promissory note on your current loans - there might be information there you can use. For govt loans (stafford, etc) made after July 1, 2006 the interest rate is going to be fixed and even a federal direct consolidation is not going to lower the rates themselves. If anything, consolidation will just increase the repayment period, which means you'll end up paying more in the long run. Most private Loans usually offer variable interest rates, which today are quite low. But unless your financial situation is very comfortable and stable, consolidating out of federally guaranteed loans into private loans might not be the best path. You might lose options like deferment, forbearance, and maybe even things like a death benefit (if you die, your loans die with you). related - if you have a co-signer you don't get that death benefit! But refinancing into a variable rate private loan is going to push a lot of risk to you in terms of interest rate inflation, etc. Most financial professionals will agree that interest rates can only go up in the long run. Keep in mind, student loans are completely unsecured - meaning lenders are taking a fairly large risk in loaning money (and probably why the fed govt has to guarantee most of them). I've heard of people borrowing against their home equity to pay down student loan debt - but I can't think of a reason you'd want to substitute secured for unsecured debt and possibly lose the loan interest tax deduction. The bottom line is you're unlikely to find an alternative lending source at a lower interest rate for an unsecured student loan. Another option may be the income based repayment plan. If you qualify, it caps student loan monthly payments at 15% of your discretionary income (discretionary is your income minus whatever the poverty threshold income amount is). And if that 15% doesn't even cover the interest on the loans, the govt picks up the tab for the difference (for up to 3 years). You have to re-qualify every year by sending in all sorts of documentation, but if you somehow stay on IBR for 25 years, your loans are then forgiven.
In real estate,loan consolidation essentially means taking out a large loan on one property from the proceeds of which you pay off all the other mortgages. Unless you are able (or willing) to reveal how much more you can borrow against your home or the third property (who has the remaining interest in the third property, and would they be willing to mortgage the property?) there is no way of discussing how much you might be able to borrow and against what.
"Bankruptcy should be your last option, and you will find that BK will not resolve most of your problems, and create many more problems. There are two kinds of BK that are available to the average person, Ch13 debt repayment and Ch7 liquidation. Both have severe repercussions and lasting effects on your credit (7-10 years, after discharge). And the calculations required under the 2005 BAPCPA are complex and may require help to understand. Ch7 liquidation is the more severe course, and the trustee would liquidate assets that exceed exemptions (vary by state) to pay your creditors. Ch13 debt repayment is hard, and only 20-25% of those who pursue that route complete the debt repayment plan. Your credit score for either course would suffer greatly (200-250 points) and would remain reduced for years, especially since you would have to rebuild credit. And the law is flawed both in design and execution as there is no reward for successful debt repayment, few finish their repayment plan (20-25%), the mean recovery for unsecured creditors in repayment is zero (thus does not help creditors), and leaves the debtor with damaged credit for years (not a fresh start). Although you may have made some decisions that have placed you in a difficult position, you can find solutions to resolve these problems. You may find that simply learning to make better choices will improve your situation. Take a financial education course (such as the Dave Ramsey course), and learn how to budget, and make better choices. The LearnVest website offers a simple way to budget by dividing budgeting into only three (3) categories with suggested percentages for each, essentials (<50%), financial priorities (>20%), and lifestyle (<30%). The damage to your credit from the derogatory effects of BK would linger for years, but the damage from poor payment history declines much quicker, and loses most of the effect after 2 years (and should you keep the accounts open, leaves you with good history and longer account history), thus the effects decline to minimal after as little as 2 years of good behavior/payment history. Make a plan that prioritizes the debts, and how you will resolve the problem, and work the plan.
"If you're looking for an analogy or exercise, I saw a personal finance show that had people climb stairs, with the debt as weight. Every flight of stairs more ""interest"" and loans to cover income gaps have to be added to the total debt they carry up the stairs. Can't find the video online though. But I think you need to ask your brother what he thinks his problem is, that will be solved with more loans. It's likely that your brother's problem can't be solved with advice. Since he's not spending rationally, rational arguments have no sway. I suspect he'll tell you his problem is one or two angry creditors, perhaps even ones you don't know about, rather than a fundamental imbalance between income and expenses. Robbing Peter to pay Paul, or moving weights from one backpack compartment to another, doesn't solve the underlying problems. Whatever you do, another loan from you should be off the table. He's an adult now, with problems the size of which you can't help with. We both know how his story ends: all creditors cut him off, and he's in court over garnished wages and creditors fighting over his assets. Reality is the only argument that will have any sway. He's far too personally invested in his scheme to admit defeat, which is why neither words not images nor moving pictures will help him with this learning disability."
TL/DR Yes, The David popularized the Debt Snowball. The method of paying low balance first. It's purely psychological. The reward or sense of accomplishment is a motivator to keep pushing to the next card. There's also the good feeling of following one you believe to be wise. The David is very charismatic, and speaks in a no-nonsense my way or the highway voice. History is riddled with religious leaders who offer advice which is followed without question. The good feeling, in theory, leads to a greater success rate. And really, it's easier to follow a plan that comes at a cost than to follow one that your guru takes issue with. In the end, when I produce a spreadsheet showing the cost difference, say $1000 over a 3 year period, the response is that it's worth the $1000 to actually succeed. My sole purpose is to simply point out the cost difference between the two methods. $100? Go with the one that makes you feel good. $2000? Just think about it first. If it's not clear, my issue is less with the fact that the low balance method is inferior and more with its proponents wishing to obfuscate the fact that the high interest method is not only valid but has some savings built in. When a woman called into The David's radio show and said her friend recommended the high rate first method, he dismissed it, and told her that low balance was the only way to go. The rest of this answer is tangent to the real issue, answered above. The battle reminds me of how people brag about getting a tax refund. With all due respect to the Tax Software people, the goal should be minimizing one's tax bill. Getting a high refund means you misplanned all year, and lent Uncle Sam money at zero interest(1). And yet you feel good about getting $3000 back in April. (Disclosure - when my father in law passed away, I took over my mother in law's finances. Her IRA RMD, and taxes. First year, I converted some money to Roth, and we had a $100 tax bill. Frowny face on mom.
"I like that guy's writing style!  Yes, from a judge point of view I think they made a reasonable decision.  They throw it back on the legislature to fill in the gaps if any are to ever be filled.  The critics in /r/personalfinance are probably right that businesses will find new ways of organizing so as to avoid being scrutinized under that law. But that is the way that laws work.   If I were writing the next law, I would consider a requirement that transfer of debt have transparency to the debtor so as to give the debtor information about how much was still outstanding and how much the new ""owner"" paid for it."
yeah, I like that, sp. as I'm as computer scientist working in engineering software and love optimization.  guess you just can't push a rope, but maybe we can put in place rules which create the incentives that guide the machine.   Often think about the incentives which guide bank lending decisions, how the commissions for issuing debt became somehow much more important to people than the idea of repayment.  Debt, created from nothing, only has value insofar as it is going to be repaid.  Maybe the knowledge they would not have to cover their own losses was enough to imbalance the equation.. lack of diligence became very common.. but why?  I remember doing business courses in the 80s where repayment was the first thing we were thinking about, all through the course of evaluating lending decisions..
Can't see why would you need to track the sources of the original funds. Can't think of a reason not to consolidate, if at all it will only make the management of your IRA more convenient, and may be even cheaper (if the fees depend on the account value...).
I'm not good at persuasion, and I'm not an expert at any of this, but here's what I've been thinking. Rather than telling him that he shouldn't rack up more debt, I'd ask him whether he's planning for his debt levels to increase, remain static, or decrease over the next five years. Try to make it feel like he's the one reaching the conclusion that he should be decreasing his debt load. If he says that he's fine with his debt levels remaining static or increasing, then I don't have any further advice. If he says he's trying to decrease his debt level, but it's actually increasing, then maybe he's in denial.
Not all debt is bad. If it carries a reasonable interest rate, you don't need to clear it immediately. As for investing in an index fund, they're an affordable, easy way to spread your money over various assets. However, asset allocation is just one of many investment strategies. Ideally, you want to invest according to your goals, tax situation, and risk tolerance. You want a portfolio that dynamically allocates to various investment strategies, both beta and alpha, according to changing market conditions. Most importantly, you want systematic risk management for every aspect of your investments.
Overall, I strongly recommend cashing out your savings and becoming debt free today, and then never borrowing again except for a house. Advantages: Disadvantages: My wife and I paid of all of my grad school debt last year, and we’re paying off all of her grad school debt this year.  To pay that aggressively, we’ve had to learn to live on a much tighter budget.  But when we’re done, if we simply invest what we have been paying toward debt into the stock market, our nest egg will compound to over $10 million by the time we retire.  According to Dave Ramsey, when the Forbes 400 were polled, 75% of them cited becoming and staying debt-free as the single best way to build wealth: http://www.daveramsey.com/article/three-steps-to-wealth-building-for-young-adults/lifeandmoney_college/text4/
No. Unless you are ten Bill Gates rolled into one man, you can not possibly hope to make a dent in the 14 trillion debt. Even if you were and paid off whole debt in one payment, budget deficits would restore it to old glory in a short time. If you have some extra money, I'd advise to either choose a charity and donate to somebody who needs your help directly or if you are so inclined, support a campaign of a financially conservative politician (only if you are sure he is a financial conservative and doesn't just tell this to get elected - I have no idea how you could do it :).
The problem with having no debt at all and relying totally on your income from working is that if you lose your job you'll have no income. Now there are 2 types of debt: good debt and bad debt. You should stay away from bad debt. But good debt is good — it should produce an income higher than the interest payments on the debt. Good debt will help you supplement your income from work and eventually replace your income from work. I have over $2M in good debt, have been semi-retired since 42, and sleep very well at night. By the way I also have zero bad debt. As Joe says, you have to be at a level you are comfortable with, can sleep at night, and try to limit your bad debt by showing some delayed gratification when you are starting off.
On the face, this appears a sound method to manage long run cumulative interest, but there are some caveats. Maxing out credit cards will destroy your credit rating.  You will receive no more reasonable offers for credit, only shady ones.  Though your credit rating will rise the moment you bring the balance back down to 10%, even with high income, it's easy to overshoot the 8 months, and then a high interest rate kicks in because of the low credit rating. Further, maxing out credit cards will encourage credit card lenders to begin cutting limits and at worse demand early payment. Now, after month 6 hits, your financial payment obligations skyrocket.  A sudden jolt is never easy to manage.  This will increase risk of missing a payment, a disaster for such hair line financing. In short, the probability of decimating your financial structure is high for very little benefit. If you are confident that you can pay off $4,000 in 8 months then simply apply those payments to the student loan directly, cutting out the middle man.  Your creditors will be pleased to see your total liabilities fall at a high rate while your utilization remains small, encouraging them to offer you more credit and lower rates. The ideal credit card utilization rate is 10%, so it would be wise to use that portion to repay the student loans. Building up credit will allow you to use the credit as an auxiliary cushion when financial disaster strikes.  Keeping an excellent credit rating will allow you to finance the largest home possible for your money.  Every percentage point of mortgage interest can mean the difference between a million USD home and a $750,000 one.
I believe this argument is most often used when considering which debts to pay back first, or when there are other options available such as investment options, building up an emergency fund, or saving for a large purchase.  In that case, it's simply justifying making minimum payments and paying more over the life of the loan in exchange for larger liquidity in the present. Unfortunately, when it comes to choosing between which debts to pay (e.g. My mom pays more than the minimum on her car because she can't deduct auto loan interest, despite her mortgage carrying a higher interest rate), it's only beneficial if the tax savings offsets the interest savings difference. The formula for that is: tax bracket > (1 - (target loan interest rate / mortgage interest rate)) That said, most people don't think in the long term, either by natural shortsightedness, or by necessity (need to have an emergency fund).
Around 3 months back, I paid back my last loan from my father which he gave for the car. Now I am totally debt free from 2 months. I have paid back following loans, 1. Education loan. 2. Car loan. I don't have my own property yet. I have a 3 months emergency fund saved which helps me overcome if there is a sudden expense. Overall, its a great idea to be debt free. I used to get extreme thoughts while I had a loan. I paid back and now I am doing good.
I mostly agree with everything you said except the part regarding debt.  The whole point was that continued growth would pay off debt, not that individuals would go into more debt than they can pay off.  The second idea would be illogical as debt holders want to get payed back.
If you have the money and the determination to pay off all the cards in six months, then the order will make little difference to your credit score, and to your finances.  If you had less money available (say you could pay off $500 a month in total), then it would be good for financial reasons to pay off the credit card with the highest interest rate first, so you pay less interest. It would be good for psychological reasons to pay the card with the smallest amount first (so you feel successful quickly, and some people need that feeling of success to continue paying off, just psychological). And if these things contradict each other, figure out what is more important.  And whatever you do, paying back your debt is better than not paying it back. So if you can't make up your mind, then you pay #1, then #2, then #3, then #4, then #5.
While there is no age limit, bear in mind that saving money makes sense only if it doesn't delay your paying off expensive debt. If you have credit cards or expensive loans you would be best placed to focus on paying them down before saving a lot. If you save and keep debt, you'll effectively lose money as the interest on your debt will usually be higher than you can earn on savings. Having said that, it's worth saving a small amount anyway to have as an emergency fund. As you pay off your debt, start saving the money you no longer have to pay out and it will soon pay dividends.
If you hadn't done it already cut up the cards. Don't close the accounts because it could hurt your credit score even more. Switching some or all of the CC debt onto low rate cards, or a debt consolidation loan is a way that some people use to reduce their credit card payments.  The biggest risk is that you become less aggressive with the loan payback. If you were planning on paying $800 in minimum payments,plus $200 extra each month; then still pay $1000 with the new loan and remaining credit cards.  Another risk is that you start overusing the credit card again, because you have available credit on the card that was paid off with the loan. The third risk, which you haven't proposed, occurs when people switch unsecured credit card dept, to a secured 2nd mortgage debt. This then puts the family home at risk.
"One thing that's often overlooked is that cash reserves are also a long-term investment.  Anything can be a long-term investment if it's expected to appreciate or pay interest/dividends.  So it's not either/or.  Stocks are but one way to do long-term investments. Having said that, taking on less debt for a consumer good is never a bad idea.  Your primary residence is a consumer good, regardless of those who would say that ""your home is your biggest investment.""  So, there's my vote for a larger down-payment. Beyond that, a couple of outside-the-box comments:"
It's a business decision for a lot of people.  You can either be stuck with the debt for the rest of your life, or you can default, settle for a much smaller amount, and ride out the 7 years that it will be on your credit.