vania-janet/multiturn-rag-retrieval-data huggingface dataset:
Intuit has a pretty good write-up on this subject. As you noted, you are allowed to exceed your limit by $2000 (though this overcontribution is not tax-deductible). Also, your contribution room accumulates. So, you may be able to contribute $18k for the 2015 tax year, but if you have unused space from previous tax years, you can make use of that, too. If you discover you have indeed overcontributed, you may be eligible for a waiver. The CRA looks kindly on honest mistakes. Consider talking to a tax accountant, and then calling up the CRA and discussing it with them. If you are not eligible for a waiver on the excess, you need the form T1-OVP. This lets you declare the excess contributions and pay the tax on it. You also need to withdraw the excess from your RRSP and may need to provide evidence of this withdrawal. Again, strongly consider talking to an accountant and to the CRA (who are surprisingly polite and helpful on the phone). 1% penalty per month can quickly get expensive and now's the time to ensure you have your ducks in a row.
"You mention that ""A great friend and couple's family"" which makes me think this is a couple.   For gift tax concerns, you can give a couple 2 x the gift tax exemption ($28,000 in 2015).  Your example of $22k would fit in this amount. To give this money anonymously, I know that people have reached out to a pastor in the area who will deliver an envelope with the gift and not disclose the source. Talking to a pastor who has done this, he said the call came out of the blue and he was happy to be able to help."
There is no distribution limit.  Even if you distributed more than your medical expenses, the excess would be taxed and penalized, but it would still be distributed, and the penalty would be based on the amount that wasn't for medical expenses, regardless of the total amount.
This is an older question but things have changed. Its a common misconception on what the contribution cap is. A few things. In 2014, the IRS did not adjust the maximum contribution from the previous year which include 401(k) accounts, 403(b) accounts, most 457 plans, and Thrift Savings Plans, will be $18,000, up $500 from $17,500. Savers and investors aged 50 or older can take advantage of a catch-up contribution. In 2015, taxpayers who meet this age-based criterion can contribute an additional $6,000 above the regular maximum of $18,000, thus you can contribute a maximum of $24,000 into these tax-advantaged accounts.  The total contribution limit, including employer contributions, has increased to $53,000 You can actually contribute up to  53k (including matching) so the exact amount you contribute from your actual income may end up being more or less than 24k. If you get a poor employer match you can actually contribute more but it would go in as after tax dollars and not claim the tax deduction. Note: after tax does NOT equal Roth.  However if your a high salaried individual you can use this as a potential loop hole for funding a Roth IRA. Chances are if your making enough money to contribute 53k Total Contributions then your not going to qualify for a roth. However once you retire (or possibly before depending on the plan withdraw terms) you can roll the after tax money into a Roth IRA. This is a gray area on the tax policy. The IRS may come back and change their mind about this. If considering this option talk to a tax adviser.
"How will contribution limits rise? Contribution limits are raised based on COLA. COLA (Cost of Living Adjustment) is a number based on CPI (Consumer Price Index) which is published by the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The IRS publishes these limits annually and a simple search term to find them each year is ""415 limits"" because section 415 lists how much the various qualified plans can set aside each year. CPI is a heavily managed and very political number. It is the number that is cited when the media talks about ""inflation."" Since it drives increases in salaries, deductions, Social Security and pension payments, there is very heavy pressure to keep the number smaller than it really is. My next step was to calculate how long that money will last One traditional rule-of-thumb is to withdraw 4% of your balance each year. Another alternative is to purchase annuities. While younger people think that annuities are horrible investments, they appeal to older people because they protect the annuitant from excessive risk of losing your capital. When you are 30, and another 2008 comes along wiping out half your savings, you have time to re-earn that money. When you are 60, and another 2008 comes along wiping out half your savings, you have very few years to recover that money. So an annuity pushes that risk onto insurance companies. If you think you will die in your 90s, then an annuity is going to be a good investment (the insurance company will be betting that you won't be living that long). I have a simple spreadsheet that I use to calculate estimated projected balances and compare them to actual performance. Don't forget that when you reach 50, the amount you can contribute goes up due to ""catch up contributions."" There are 2 views of the same tab in this picture. There are 3 growth rates: pessimistic, nominal and optimistic. You can change the numbers to suit your own projections of future growth. Other tabs on this spreadsheet include measurements of actual performance by my 401k and IRA accounts. At the end of the year, I replace the numbers in columns F, G & H with the actual end-of-year dollar amounts.
Poster forgot to mention his age (range). If you're aged 50 or more, you are allowed a catch-up of $6000 in addition to the $18000 max deferral amount to your 401k (2015-2017) IRS Retirement Topics - Catch-Up Contributions
To my knowledge, there shouldn't be a limit on the amount you can receive as a gift, and gifts are not considered income to you; they are not taxable for the recipient.  Depending on the size of the wire transfer, it may be reported by the bank to the government, but there is no limit, and it should not be a concern to you.  (I don't think that $2500 is large enough to be reportable anyway.) Having said that, this might be a good question to ask your international student advisor at your school to make sure he or she agrees. There is a very similar question on Avvo.com (a legal question-and-answer site) that agrees: Limit to transfer money to students on f1 visa.
So for the above £25K gross contribution example, you'd hand over £20K initially and then get £5K back at the end of the tax year, leaving you with £15K less in your pocket. If you did want to make a £20K net contribution and had enough higher-rate salary to cover it, the gross contribution you'd end up with would be £33,333, and you'd need to find £6,666 more temporarily. Note that there are also limits on the annual contribution you can make of £40K (the ""annual allowance""), but you can carry forward allowances from three previous years so it's very unlikely to be relevant."
There is no tax liability for your brother in India as under gift tax,t there is no cap on amount. The transaction may be taxable to you in US, as there is a limit of USD 14000 per year per person.
Are the $18,000 401k 2017 limit and the $5,500 IRA limit mutually exclusive for a combined limit of $23,500 (under 49)? Yes, but the amount that you can deduct from a traditional IRA depends on your gross income and marital status - See publication 590-A for details.  Also note that the limit applies to your combined traditional and Roth IRA contributions (meaning you can't contribute $5,500 to both; just a total of $5,500 between the two). I'm also assuming employee match $ count towards these limits - is this correct No - the limit for combined contributions between you and your employer is $54,000 in 2017.  So if you contribute $18,000 your employer can only contribute $36,000.
Because you have maxed your 2011 contribution, you can't add any more for 2011. If you have 2012 income you can make a contribution anytime between now and April 2013. Only you can determine if this makes sense for you, but there doesn't appear to be any reasons to suspect you can't do this. (this was based on your comments to the original question)
"The IRA contribution limit is a limit on the total amount you can contribute to all of your Roth and traditional IRAs.  It's not a per-account limit.  (See here and here.)  Once you've hit the contribution limit on one account, you've hit it on all of them. Even so, supposing you had a reason with try to take money out of one of the accounts, the answer to your question is ""sort of"".  The limit is a limit on your gross contributions, not your net contributions.  It is possible to withdraw Roth contributions if you do so before the tax filing deadline for that year, but you must also withdraw (and pay taxes on) any earnings accured during the time the money was in the Roth (see here).  In addition, doing this may not be as simple as just taking the money out of your account; you should probably ask your bank about it and let them know you're ""undoing"" the contribution, since they may otherwise still record the amount as a real contribution and the withdrawal as unqualified early withdrawal (subject to penalties, etc.)."
This will be difficult to achieve.  It can be done, but it's very rare to have an agreement where your employer is willing to max out your contribution limit unless you are a partner in the business or a family relation. In this situation the extra employer money would probably come from a profit sharing contribution. If your employer increases your match, others are correct that your employer would have to increase the match for everyone. Not so with a profit sharing contribution. This is assuming 2 things though: Both of those are BIG if's, and I'd say 99% of the time it's not gonna happen for either of those two reasons. Your chances are better if you don't own >5% of the company, don't make over $120,000/year, and are related to you employer. Good luck!
"According to IRS Bulletin 2007-39, you can elect the maximum contribution allowed by your new employer (please note that though the IRS allows a maximum limit on Health FSA of $2,600, your employer's plan can limit that to a lower amount) so long as both employers are not part of a ""controlled group.""  The complicated part of this is that your wife is covered by HDHP w/ HSA. Under IRS Publication 969, you cannot make contributions to an HSA if you are covered by any other health care coverage. Since your spouse would also be covered by your FSA, that would disqualify your spouse from making any contributions towards her HSA."
Scenario: Ken contributes $20,000 in 2015 when the 402(g) limit is $18,000. Ken is not old enough to make catch-up contributions. Ken made $2,000 in excess deferrals which the plan must correct by refunding the excess and any allocable earnings. If the correction is made prior to April 15th, 2016: No penalty. The excess + earnings is refunded to Ken and basically becomes income. Ken will receive 2 1099-R's one for the excess deferral in 2015, and one for the allocable earnings in 2016. The refund is taxed at Ken's income tax rate. If the correction is made after April 15th, 2016: Double taxation! The excess contribution is taxable in 2015, and again in the year it is distributed. Allocable earnings are taxed in the year distributed. The excess + allocable earnings may also be subject to 10% early withdrawal penalty.
Anybody can contribute to a traditional ira up to the maximum limit.  Does it make sense to contribute to a non-deductible IRA?  There are a couple of cases where it does:  If you're 59 1/2 or older, you're old enough to make IRA withdrawals without penalty. If you choose investments that maximize the value of tax deferral, you can use the nondeductible IRA to manage your tax burden. If you're aware of an upcoming change in tax law that will benefit high earning individuals, it might be beneficial to use a nondeductible IRA. For example - you know that income limits for converting a traditional to a Roth are going to change in the coming year. You set up a nondeductible IRA with the intention of converting it the next year, so you can get around Roth contribution rules.  Beyond these cases, the main argument for contributing to a non-deductible IRA is -- compounded returns. If your IRA has a strong, steady growth rate, compounded returns can work wonders for your contributions. Let's take a hypothetical... You are 35. You contribute the max amount of $5,500 every year until you retire at 70. With a modest growth rate of 9.5%, your total contribution of 193K would become 1.46M. The compounded returns are 7.6 times your contributions.
I routinely max out my 401k contributions.  The company's stupid website actually forces me to make two contributions -- one for the regular contribution, and another for the Catchup Contribution. I routinely adjust my 401k contribution throughout the year -- at the first of the year, I calculate how much to withhold such that I can adjust withholding to 6% of salary more than before, once I hit the SS tax limit.  At the first of the year, I ignore bonuses.  I re-adjust (if needed) once I know bonuses. I've worked for my company for almost 30 years now.
Firstly, there is also a lifetime gift+estate tax allowance. If the father's estate, including other gifts given in his lifetime, is unlikely to exceed that allowance, it might be simplest simply to give the whole amount now and count it against the allowance. Right now the allowance is $5.34M, but that seems quite a big political football and it's the allowance when you die that matters. Looking back at past values for the allowance, $1M seems like a pretty safe amount to bet on. If you want to avoid/minimize the use of that allowance, I would make a loan structured as a mortgage that will have $14K payments each year (which can then be forgiven). The points in Rick Goldstein's answer about an appropriate rate, and being able to give more if more notional donors and recipients can be used, also apply. So for example in the first year hand over $200K at 3.5% and immediately forgive $14K. The next year, forgive the interest charge of $6.5K and capital of $7.5K. Given the age of the daughter, I guess the father might well die before its all paid off that way, leaving some residue to be forgiven by the estate (and thus potentially incurring estate taxes). There might also be state gift/estate taxes to consider. Edited to reflect 2014 gift and lifetime exclusion limits.
An answer to this question  Can I get a rebate after using my HSA? discusses how to redeposit money accidentally withdrawn. The link to https://www.americafirst.com/about/help/faq/health-savings.cfm in the answer also includes this FAQ: What if I contribute into my HSA more than my yearly limit allows? If nothing is done about this excess contribution then there will be   an excise tax of 6 percent assessed by the IRS. You are able to avoid   this penalty as long as you distribute the excess before the tax   filing deadline including any extensions. Any of our many America   First branches can help you fill out the appropriate paperwork to get   this taken care of so you avoid this tax. contact the institution where the funds are deposited and ask for help reversing the deposit.
Mr. and Mrs. Auburn can split the family contribution limit ($6,250) equally or they can agree on a different division. If they split it equally, Mr. Auburn can contribute $4,125 to an HSA (one-half the maximum contribution for family coverage ($3,125) + $1,000 additional contribution) and Mrs. Auburn can contribute $3,125 to an HSA. The last example is nearly the exact situation you are in assuming your wife's plan is family coverage. The only assumption beyond what is explicitly written you need to make is that you are considered to have family coverage in the example as per the ""Rules for married people"" section, even though your plan only is a single-coverage plan. This conclusion seems to logically follow from information in the FAQs here (see Q32), as well as this document. Neither the above example nor any IRS documents referenced in this answer cover your situation completely."
The lifetime limit would be very peculiar. The question for the IRS is, whether this is a gift of some sorts, which is why they become interested at some point. In the US, you as the giftor would have to pay the taxes. The bank might inquire too, due to money laundering issues. The bank will anyhow report transactions above a certain size to the IRS. As long as you are sending money to yourself, you should be fine, as this is clearly not a gift. If you send it to 3rd person, then this is either for a service, in this case you need a bill or is a gift, in which case you require to pay gift taxes.
Some companies allow you to make a post-tax contribution to the 401K. This is not a Roth contribution. This can be money beyond the 18,000 or 24,000 401k limit. The best news is that eventually that money can be rolled into 1 Roth-IRA. Not all companies allow this option. One company I worked for did this automatically when you hit the annual max. Of course that was made more complex if you had multiple employers that year.
"There are two types of 401(k) contributions: ""elective contributions,"" which are the part put in by the employee and ""nonelective contributions,"" which are the part put in by the company.  Elective contributions are summed across all the plans she is contributing to.  So she can contribute $18,000 minus whatever she put in her 403(b). Additionally she can contribute 20% of the net profit of the company (before the elective contributions) as nonelective contributions (these contributions must be designated as such). You will notice that the IRS document says 25%, but that's what you can do if her business is incorporated.  For a sole proprietorship, nonelective contributions  ends up being limited at 20% of profit. Additionally, the sum of these two and her contribution to her 403(b) cannot exceed $53,000. Example: line 31 of her schedule C is $30,000 and she has contributed $10,000 to her 403(b). Maximum contribution to her solo 401(k) is ($18,000 - $10,000) + 0.2 * $30,000 = $14,000 Her total contributions for the year are $10,000 from her 403(b) plus $14,000 in her solo 401(k).  This is less than $53,000 so this limit does not bind.  If she made a ton of 1099 money, her contribution maximum would follow the above until it hit $53,000 and then it would stop there. The IRS describes this in detail in Publication 560, which also has a worksheet for figuring out your maximum explicitly.  It's unpleasant reading and the worksheets are painful, but if you do it right, it will end up being as I just described it.  Using the language of that publication, hers is a ""qualified plan"" of the ""defined contribution"" variety."
"Unfortunately, not directly.  For IRAs and HSAs, we have an annual maximum contribution limit. What you can do (which doesn't ""initially seed"" it) is to put the money aside in a savings account that you want to contribute to your HSA or IRA and then put it in the IRA or HSA when the timing is right for you.  The key here though is that the contribution cannot exceed the maximum limit for the year. Another ""way around"" this (which really isn't because it just means that you'll have a new higher limit) is to become self employed, see this from the IRS about SEPs: Contribute as much as 25% of your net earnings from self-employment   (not including contributions for yourself), up to $51,000 for 2013   ($52,000 for 2014). Still, none of these methods are pre-seeding an account, as the maximum contribution limit is never exceeded."
$3 million, invested appropriately, should allow you to pull out approximately $90,000 a year (adjusted upward for inflation) forever. I leave the specifics of how to come up with $3 million as an exercise for the reader. :) As an aside, there's a Memorial and Traffic Safety Fund which (kindly and gently) solicited a $10,000 donation after my wife was killed in a motor vehicle accident. That would have provided annual donations in her name, in perpetuity. This shows you don't need $30,000 to set up a scholarship or a fund. I chose to go another way, but it was an option I seriously considered. Edit: The Trinity study actually only looked at a 30 year withdrawal period. So long as the investment wasn't exhausted within 30 years, it was considered a success. The Trinity study has also been criticised when it comes to retirement. Nevertheless, there's some withdrawal rate at which point your investment is expected to last forever. It just may be slightly smaller than 3-4% per year.
It is my understanding that there are no penalties for withdrawals and you can withdraw as much as you want as often as you want, including more than once in the same calendar year.  Of course, the money must be in cash in the TFSA, which may require you to sell something.  That sale may have fees associated with it and possibly penalties for early withdrawal, etc. There is still huge confusion over this, because there are penalties for over-contributions in the calendar year.  You contribution limit is still $5,500/year, regardless of how much you may have withdrawn in that same calendar year. So if you withdraw $10K in 2013, you can still only contribute $5,500 in 2013.  In 2014, you can contribute $5,500, PLUS you can also contribute an additional $10K for the 2013 withdrawal of $10K.  Think of it like 2 separate limits, one for current year, and one a running total of all past withdrawals.
Your total salary deferral cannot exceed $18K (as of 2016). You can split it between your different jobs as you want, to maximize the matching.  You can contribute non-elective contribution on top of that, which means that your self-proprietorship will commit to paying you that portion regardless of your deferral. That would be on top of the $18K. You cannot contribute more than 20% of your earnings, though. So if you earn $2K, you can add $400 on top of the $18K limit (ignoring the SE tax for a second here). Keep in mind that if you ever have employees, the non-elective contribution will apply to them as well. Also, the total contribution limit from all sources (deferral, matching, non-elective) cannot exceed $53K (for 2016).
Excise tax on the excess contribution is 6% a year on the amount of the contribution. In addition, gains will be taxable to you. By adding 20K over the limit, you added $1200 to your tax bill. Withdraw it ASAP. Whatever investment you have in your IRA - you can probably buy it (or a comparable) outside of the IRA.
"You cannot contribute to the HSA in excess to the limit. The ""post-tax"" contributions ""some links"" are talking about may be referring to the case where you cannot contribute through your paycheck. In that case - you contribute from your own (after-tax) money, and then claim deduction from your taxes above the line, i.e.: you end up getting the same tax benefit with the exception of the FICA taxes. 6% excise tax is yearly until you withdraw the excess and the earnings on it, and when you do withdraw the excess and the earnings - you'll pay your ordinary rate taxes on it. For each year, you have until April 15th the following year to withdraw the excess of that year without the penalty From the IRS publication 969: Generally, you must pay a 6% excise tax on excess contributions. See   Form 5329, Additional Taxes on Qualified Plans (including IRAs) and   Other Tax-Favored Accounts, to figure the excise tax. The excise tax   applies to each tax year the excess contribution remains in the   account."