Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol — evidence, uses & status

Class: small_molecule
Synonyms: meroterpene
meroterpene phenol
(+)-bakuchiol
Sytenol A (branded, Sytheon Ltd)
(botanical source: Psoralea corylifolia — babchi, bakuchi)
INCI: Bakuchiol
Function tags: skin appearance (cosmetic)
fine lines and photoaging appearance
hyperpigmentation appearance
antioxidant
gentle / sensitive-skin friendly
Overall evidence grade: B
WADA prohibited: no
Last updated: 2026-07-20

In brief: Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol from the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia (babchi), first isolated in 1966 and introduced as a cosmetic active (Sytenol A, Sytheon) in 2007. It has become the most- discussed "natural retinol alternative" — not because it resembles retinol chemically (structurally unrelated), but because it triggers a similar gene expression signature and collagen response through non-retinoid pathways (MAPK/ERK signalling). The pivotal clinical evidence is a single independent randomised double-blind trial (Dhaliwal 2019, Br J Dermatol, n=44, 12 weeks) showing bakuchiol 0.5% matched retinol 0.5% for wrinkle and hyperpigmentation improvement with better tolerability. Independent replication at larger scale is still limited — the ingredient sits at solid Grade B, not the A that marketing sometimes implies. Honest limits: single small human RCT, formulation and purity matter (>80% required for INCI "Bakuchiol"), furocoumarin-containing babchi extracts are a different and less-safe category. Well-suited to sensitive, reactive, and perimenopausal skin that tolerates retinol poorly, and to routines seeking gentle collagen support without the retinization period.

## Identity

a **meroterpene phenol** — a plant-derived molecule combining a monoterpene tail with a phenolic head — first isolated in **1966** from the seeds of *Psoralea corylifolia*, a leguminous plant native to India and China (common names: babchi, bakuchi). Molecular formula C₂₂H₃₄O₂. Notably, bakuchiol has **no structural resemblance to vitamin A or the retinoids** — it is not a vitamin, not a retinoid, and does not bind retinoic acid receptors. Its similarity to retinol is entirely functional, not structural.

Purity matters: to carry the INCI name **"Bakuchiol"** an ingredient must be **>80% pure**. Unpurified *Psoralea corylifolia* extracts and babchi seed oils contain other phytochemicals — including **psoralen and isopsoralen** (furocoumarins) — that are photosensitising and can cause serious skin reactions on sun exposure. These fall under different INCI names (e.g., "*Psoralea corylifolia* seed extract"), have different safety profiles, and should not be confused with purified bakuchiol.

## Development & history

- **1966:** Bakuchiol first isolated and structurally characterised from *Psoralea corylifolia* seeds.
- **Ancient use:** the parent plant has centuries of use in Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine for a broad range of skin conditions — traditional context, not modern efficacy data.
- **2007:** First commercial cosmetic introduction as **Sytenol A** by Sytheon Ltd (New Jersey, US) — the ingredient supplier that would go on to publish the foundational mechanistic paper.
- **2014:** Chaudhuri & Bojanowski publish comparative gene expression profiling in *International Journal of Cosmetic Science*, positioning bakuchiol as a "functional analogue" of retinol. This paper is widely cited and mechanistically important — but its authors are Sytheon employees with commercial interest in the ingredient.
- **2019:** Dhaliwal et al. publish the pivotal independent clinical trial in *British Journal of Dermatology*: 12-week randomised, double-blind, split-comparison of bakuchiol 0.5% vs retinol 0.5% (n=44). Parity for wrinkle and hyperpigmentation reduction; better tolerability for bakuchiol. This trial launched bakuchiol into mainstream skincare consciousness.
- **2020–2024:** Multiple additional clinical evaluations and mechanistic studies published (Draelos 2020 in sensitive skin, Goldberg 2020 with combined actives, Bluemke 2022 independent multidirectional efficacy). Ingredient adoption across cosmetic brands accelerates.
- **2024–2026:** Bakuchiol is now one of the fastest-growing search categories in cosmetic ingredients (approximately +49% year-over-year in trend data), driven partly by consumer interest in retinol alternatives — accelerated by the November 2025 EU restrictions on retinol under Regulation (EU) 2024/996.

## Mechanism (as proposed)

despite lacking structural similarity to retinoids, bakuchiol induces a gene expression signature in skin cells that **broadly overlaps** with retinol's — upregulating **type I, III, and IV collagen**, **aquaporin 3** (hydration), and modulating **matrix metalloproteinases** (MMP-1 inhibition and, notably, stronger MMP-12 inhibition than retinol itself). It does this **without binding retinoic acid receptors** (RAR/RXR); instead, it acts through **MAPK/ERK signalling**, **PI3K/Akt**, and — per more recent proteomic work — direct interactions with FABP5 and multiple kinases. Bakuchiol is also a **potent lipid-peroxidation inhibitor** — approximately 60× more effective than natural tocopherol at protecting squalene from photo-oxidation in vitro. Because the pathway is different, bakuchiol delivers retinol-like benefits without the retinization period (initial irritation, dryness, peeling) that comes with true retinoid receptor activation, and without the cumulative vitamin A exposure concerns that led to the 2024–2025 EU retinol restrictions.

Evidence grades by outcome:
outcome: Topical: fine wrinkles / photoaging appearance
grade: B
base: Dhaliwal 2019 (Br J Dermatol) — randomised, double-blind, 12-week trial n=44, bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily vs retinol 0.5% cream once daily; both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area with no statistical difference between compounds. Draelos 2020 (JDD) — separate clinical evaluation of nature-based bakuchiol moisturizer in sensitive-skin population.
effect: Visible reduction of wrinkle surface area over 12 weeks, comparable magnitude to 0.5% retinol
caveat: Single independent RCT (n=44 is small); no large multi-site replication or long-term (>12 weeks) trial. Formulation-dependent (0.5% appears to be the studied effective concentration).
outcome: Hyperpigmentation appearance
grade: B
base: Dhaliwal 2019 — significant decrease in hyperpigmentation, no statistical difference vs retinol 0.5%; graded blinded by board-certified dermatologist and by computer photograph analysis.
effect: Visible reduction in appearance of uneven pigmentation over 12 weeks
caveat: Same evidence base as wrinkle outcome (single RCT); replication needed
outcome: Tolerability vs retinol (fewer side effects)
grade: B
base: Dhaliwal 2019 — retinol group reported significantly more facial scaling and stinging; bakuchiol group had lower rates of subjective itching and burning (not statistically significant) and significantly lower stinging
effect: Better tolerability than retinol at equivalent concentration; suitable for sensitive skin, no reported "retinization" period
caveat: Studied population was mixed adults with photodamage; specific data on rosacea, active eczema, or highly reactive skin limited
outcome: Collagen/ECM gene expression (mechanism-level)
grade: B
base: Chaudhuri & Bojanowski 2014 (Int J Cosmet Sci) — comparative gene expression profiling of bakuchiol vs retinol in EpiDermFT full-thickness skin substitutes; volcano plots showed great overall similarity of gene expression modulation. In human dermal fibroblasts, bakuchiol upregulated type I collagen ~1.4-fold and type IV collagen ~1.6-fold, comparable to 0.025% retinol. Mechanism involves MAPK/ERK signalling — not RAR/RXR receptor binding (bakuchiol has no structural resemblance to retinoids).
effect: Retinol-like gene expression signature and collagen upregulation via non-retinoid pathway
caveat: Chaudhuri & Bojanowski are Sytheon Ltd employees (Sytenol A patent holder) — declared conflict of interest. Independent replication of full gene profile is limited. Mechanism is real but paper is commercially motivated.
outcome: Antioxidant / anti-lipoperoxidation
grade: B
base: In vitro: bakuchiol ~60-fold more effective than natural tocopherol at inhibiting squalene peroxidation (IC50 0.5 vs 30 µg/mL); reduces UVB- induced IL-6 and TNF-α in keratinocyte cultures ~35–45%
effect: Antioxidant activity in skin cells and lipids
caveat: Cell-culture data; clinical translation to visible endpoints in humans not directly demonstrated at this granularity
outcome: Acne appearance
grade: C
base: Limited clinical trials at 0.5–1% in acne-affected skin; comprehensive review 2020 (JOID) discusses evidence but base is small
effect: Reduction in appearance of blemishes and pore appearance
caveat: Acne treatment is medical territory (retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics); cosmetic scope covers appearance only. Evidence base smaller than for photoaging.
outcome: "Natural retinol" / "plant-based retinol" identity
grade: F
base: Marketing claim
caveat: A compositional claim, not a clinical one — no human study can bear on it. Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol (C22H34O2); retinol is C20H30O. It contains no retinol, is not a retinoid, and does not bind retinoic acid receptors. The only support ever offered is a retinol-like gene-expression signature in full-thickness skin substitutes and cultured dermal fibroblasts — in vitro, and authored by employees of the ingredient's patent holder. Matching retinol in a trial does not make a molecule retinol.
outcome: "As effective as retinol" clinical equivalence
grade: C
base: Marketing claim
caveat: A real head-to-head was run: randomised, double-blind, 12 weeks, n=44, 0.5% bakuchiol against 0.5% retinol, independent of the ingredient supplier. Both arms significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation with no statistical difference between them, graded blind by a board-certified dermatologist and by computer photograph analysis; further human work in sensitive skin and an independent replication point the same way. The evidence is still early and small — one independent trial of that size over that span, designed to detect superiority with no prespecified non-inferiority margin, so a difference not detected is not equivalence demonstrated.
outcome: Pregnancy / breastfeeding safety
base: Bakuchiol is not a retinoid (structurally unrelated) and does not carry the vitamin A cumulative exposure concern that led to EU retinol restrictions (Regulation 2024/996). However — no dedicated pregnancy safety studies exist; FDA has not assigned a pregnancy safety rating.
effect: Widely marketed as pregnancy-safe retinol alternative; not classified as a pregnancy risk by regulatory authorities
caveat: Absence of evidence of risk is not evidence of absence of risk. Pregnant and breastfeeding users should consult a healthcare provider before starting any new active. Vallydia does not make pregnancy-specific claims and directs users to their doctor for individual assessment.
outcome: Purity, sourcing, and photosensitising contaminants (safety)
base: To carry the INCI name "Bakuchiol", the ingredient must be >80% pure. Lower-purity Psoralea corylifolia (babchi) seed extracts and oils may contain furocoumarins (psoralen, isopsoralen) that are photosensitising and can cause serious skin reactions upon UV exposure. These are not bakuchiol per se — they are contaminants of unpurified extract.
effect: Well-purified bakuchiol has a clean tolerability profile; unpurified babchi extracts carry meaningfully different safety concerns
caveat: When formulating or evaluating a product, verify the INCI declaration shows "Bakuchiol" (purified) and not "Psoralea corylifolia extract" or "babchi oil" — the latter are not equivalent for safety purposes
outcome: Systemic / oral use
grade: F
base: Some traditional-medicine and animal studies of Psoralea corylifolia extract
effect: Not applicable — Vallydia treats bakuchiol strictly as a topical cosmetic ingredient
caveat: Oral use of babchi extracts is associated with hepatotoxicity concerns in some case reports (Chinese herbal medicine context) and is outside cosmetic scope entirely

Legal status:
region: EU
status: Lawful cosmetic ingredient (unrestricted)
note: Topical Bakuchiol is a lawful cosmetic ingredient in the EU under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. CosIng-listed as "Bakuchiol" (skin conditioning). Not restricted under Annex III (unlike retinol per Regulation (EU) 2024/996). No mandatory warning label required. INCI declaration requires >80% purity. Unpurified Psoralea corylifolia extracts fall under a different INCI name and different safety profile.
region: UK
status: Lawful cosmetic ingredient
note: UK Cosmetics Regulation (retained EU law post-Brexit) treats bakuchiol the same as the EU.
region: US
status: Lawful cosmetic ingredient
note: Topical bakuchiol is a lawful cosmetic ingredient in the US; no concentration limits at cosmetic use; not FDA-approved as a drug and cannot make medical claims.
region: INT
status: Lawful cosmetic ingredient
note: Broadly lawful for cosmetic use worldwide. Rising demand and regulatory tightening around retinol are driving broader adoption; expect continued growth in global cosmetic product launches through 2026–2027.

Cosmetic claims:
allowed: for the appearance of smoother, more refined-looking skin
helps improve the look of fine lines
for the appearance of a more even complexion
supports the look of firmer, healthy-looking skin
a gentle alternative for the appearance of aging skin
antioxidant
forbidden: natural retinol
plant retinol
as effective as retinol (implies clinical equivalence beyond appearance)
treats wrinkles
stimulates collagen synthesis
reverses aging
retinoid alternative for treatment
safe during pregnancy (implies medical safety claim)
treats acne
anti-inflammatory

Note: This is an independent evidence reference. Vallydia does not currently sell a bakuchiol product; this entry grades the ingredient independently as part of the reference registry, spanning mechanism (Chaudhuri 2014 with declared industry affiliation), clinical (Dhaliwal 2019 independent RCT), and safety (purity considerations).

Sources:
Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti- aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014; 36(3):221-30. doi:10.1111/ics.12117. [Sytheon Ltd — declared conflict of interest]
Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double- blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019; 180(2):289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918. [Independent — University of California / Michigan / Florida / Pennsylvania]
Draelos ZD, Gunt H, Zeichner J, Levy S. Clinical evaluation of a nature- based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020; 19(12):1181.
Goldberg DJ, Robinson DM, Granger C. Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 anti-aging topical night serum-in-oil containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020.
Bluemke A, Ring AP, Immeyer J, et al. Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing — clinical efficacy of a bakuchiol-based cosmetic product. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022; 44(3):377-393. [Independent replication of key effects]
Comprehensive review: A comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol for the treatment of photoaging. Journal of Integrative Dermatology. 2024.
Chaudhuri RK. Chapter — Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound, Modulating Multiple Retinol and Non-Retinol Targets. In: Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics. 2015. [Sytheon — mechanistic review]
Adhikari S, Joshi R, Patro BS, et al. Antioxidant activity of bakuchiol: experimental evidences and theoretical treatments on the possible involvement of the terpenoid chain. Chem Res Toxicol. 2003; 16(9):1062-9.
Cosmetics & Toiletries technical article: How Psoralens and Terpenes Pose Hidden Allergic Potential in Botanical Extracts. 2024. [Purity and contamination reference — Psoralea corylifolia furocoumarins]