Squalane
Squalane — evidence, uses & status

Class: small_molecule
Synonyms: INCI: Squalane
phytosqualane
hydrogenated squalene
olive-derived squalane
sugarcane-derived squalane
C30H62
Function tags: skin appearance (cosmetic)
emollient
hydration
barrier support
soothing (appearance)
Overall evidence grade: B
WADA prohibited: no
Last updated: 2026-07-20

In brief: Squalane is a lightweight, exceptionally well-tolerated emollient — the stable, hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid naturally found in human sebum. Its strengths are practical rather than dramatic: it softens, smooths, and helps seal in moisture without a heavy or greasy feel, and because it mimics the skin's own oil it is non-comedogenic enough to suit oily and acne-prone skin, where richer plant oils often fail. It is not a structural barrier-repair ingredient (that is ceramides' role) and the antioxidant / anti-ageing claims around it are preliminary. Modern squalane is sustainably plant-derived from sugarcane or olives, chemically identical to the older shark-liver source. A reliable, gentle, all-skin-type moisturising oil — best judged as an excellent emollient rather than a treatment active.

## Identity

Squalane is a **saturated hydrocarbon oil** (C30H62) — the fully hydrogenated, shelf-stable version of **squalene**, a lipid that occurs naturally in human sebum (where it makes up roughly 10–12% of skin surface lipids). Hydrogenating squalene removes the double bonds that make the parent molecule prone to oxidation, turning an unstable natural oil into a stable, long-shelf-life cosmetic ingredient with a light, silky, non-greasy slip.

Because it is so close to a lipid the skin already makes, squalane spreads and absorbs in a way that reads as "skin-like" rather than heavy — which is the root of both its pleasant feel and its unusually broad tolerability.

- **Squalene vs squalane** — squalene (with an "e") is the natural, unsaturated precursor and oxidises easily; squalane (with an "a") is the hydrogenated, stable form used in skincare. The distinction matters on labels.
- **Source** — historically extracted from shark liver oil; modern cosmetic squalane is almost entirely **plant-derived** (biofermented from sugarcane, or from olives), and is chemically identical to the animal-derived material.

## Development & history

- Squalene was first characterised in shark liver oil in the early 20th century; the name derives from *Squalus*, the shark genus.
- Its instability (rapid oxidation) limited cosmetic use until **hydrogenation** produced stable squalane.
- Sustainability and supply concerns around shark-derived squalene drove the shift to **plant-derived squalane** (sugarcane biofermentation and olive sources), now the industry standard.
- In the mid-2020s "skin-barrier-first" era, squalane became a staple lightweight facial oil — valued precisely because it delivers lipid comfort without the heaviness or comedogenic risk associated with many botanical oils.

## Mechanism (as proposed)

Squalane works as an **emollient and light occlusive**. As an emollient it fills the microscopic gaps between loosely-organised surface skin cells, smoothing rough texture and giving skin a softer feel. As a light occlusive it forms a thin, breathable layer that slows the passive evaporation of water from the skin surface (transepidermal water loss), helping skin hold on to moisture.

What it does *not* do is rebuild the barrier's structural lipid matrix. A healthy barrier depends on organised sheets of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids; squalane is a hydrocarbon that sits with and over those lipids rather than replacing the missing structural components. This is the key framing: on genuinely lipid-depleted or damaged skin, squalane provides real comfort and moisture retention, but the structural repair job belongs to barrier lipids like ceramides. The two are complementary — squalane the softening, sealing finish; ceramides the structural rebuild.

Its **sebum-mimetic** nature explains the standout practical benefit: because it resembles the skin's own oil and is a pure, stable hydrocarbon rather than a fatty-acid-rich triglyceride, it is broadly non-comedogenic and tends to be tolerated even by oily and acne-prone skin that reacts to heavier plant oils. Individual responses still vary, so patch-testing remains sensible.

Evidence grades by outcome:
outcome: Emollient softening & moisture retention (appearance/feel of dry skin)
grade: B
base: Well-established emollient with a long cosmetic track record; a saturated hydrocarbon closely related to squalene, a natural component of human sebum. Reviews of moisturiser ingredients class it as an emollient with light occlusive behaviour that reduces transepidermal water loss and improves the feel of dry skin.
effect: Softer, smoother-feeling skin and reduced flaking, with lightweight, non-greasy moisture; suits most skin types
caveat: This is emollient/occlusive action — sealing and softening — not structural barrier-lipid replacement. For a genuinely lipid-depleted barrier, ceramides (with cholesterol and fatty acids) address the structural deficit that squalane does not.
outcome: Lightweight, non-comedogenic facial oil for oily / acne-prone skin (tolerability)
grade: B
base: Widely reported as non-comedogenic and well tolerated across skin types, including oily and acne-prone, because it is a stable sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon rather than a heavy triglyceride plant oil.
effect: Lipid support and comfort without a heavy or pore-clogging feel — a practical facial-oil option for skin that cannot tolerate richer oils
caveat: Individual comedogenicity still varies; patch-test. "Non-comedogenic" is a general-tendency claim, not a guarantee for every person.
outcome: Antioxidant / anti-ageing appearance
grade: C
base: Squalane is the hydrogenated, oxidatively stable form of squalene; some laboratory work attributes mild antioxidant or skin-protective activity to it, but clinical evidence in finished cosmetics is thin.
effect: Possible modest supportive benefit; not a primary anti-ageing active
caveat: Preliminary and largely mechanistic — squalane should not be positioned as an anti-ageing treatment or a substitute for evidenced actives (retinoids, vitamin C).
outcome: Soothing / post-procedure comfort (appearance & feel)
grade: C
base: Used in clinical and dermatology practice as a gentle, non-reactive emollient on sensitised or post-procedure skin; supported mainly by tolerability and clinical experience rather than large trials.
effect: A comfortable, non-stinging emollient layer on reactive skin
caveat: Comfort and appearance support only — not a treatment for any condition, and not a substitute for post-procedure medical guidance.
outcome: "Balances / controls oil production" sebum regulation
grade: D
base: Marketing claim
caveat: Human measurement of squalane covers moisturisation and tolerability; sebum output has never been measured in a trial. The balancing story is mechanism only — skin sensing adequate surface lipid and easing its own production — with no outcome data behind it. What was measured is how skin felt and how much water it held, not how much oil it makes.

Legal status:
region: INT
status: Lawful cosmetic ingredient
note: Squalane (INCI: Squalane) is a lawful cosmetic ingredient globally, including the EU (Regulation (EC) 1223/2009); CosIng-listed, with no concentration ceiling. Modern squalane is plant-derived (from sugarcane or olives) and is chemically identical to the shark-liver-derived material it has largely replaced on sustainability grounds. Not a restricted or controlled substance in any major market.

Cosmetic claims:
allowed: softens and smooths the look and feel of skin
helps skin look and feel hydrated and comfortable
a lightweight, non-greasy facial oil suitable for most skin types
helps reduce the look of dryness and flakiness
mimics the feel of skin's own oils without a heavy finish
forbidden: repairs the skin barrier
treats acne
anti-inflammatory
reduces inflammation
heals or cures dry skin
reverses ageing
controls oil production

Note: Squalane is a lawful cosmetic ingredient worldwide and one of the best-tolerated facial oils (a sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon, oxidatively stable, no documented pregnancy concerns). Vallydia uses plant-derived (sugarcane/olive) squalane as a lightweight emollient. Only cosmetic appearance/feel use is relevant to the sellable product; it is an emollient, not a treatment.

Sources:
Kim SK, Karadeniz F. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Adv Food Nutr Res. 2012; 65:223-33.
Sethi A, Kaur T, Malhotra SK, Gambhir ML. Moisturizers: The Slippery Road. Indian J Dermatol. 2016; 61(3):279-87.
Pappas A. Epidermal surface lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009; 1(2):72-76 (sebum squalene context).
Huang ZR, Lin YK, Fang JY. Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules. 2009; 14(1):540-54.