Exosomes
Exosomes — evidence, uses & status

Class: blend
Synonyms: extracellular vesicles
exosome-like vesicles
EVs
MSC exosomes (stem-cell-derived)
plant-derived exosomes
plant extracellular vesicles (PEVs)
INCI: varies by source (e.g. plant/ferment exosome extracts)
Function tags: skin appearance (cosmetic)
antioxidant (appearance)
soothing (appearance)
barrier support
emerging / early evidence
Overall evidence grade: C
WADA prohibited: no
Last updated: 2026-07-20

In brief: Exosomes are tiny lipid-membrane vesicles (roughly 30–150 nm) that cells use to communicate — a real, serious piece of biology. Because the messaging system is universal, plant cells make them too, and cosmetic exosome products are almost always plant-derived (they also sit outside the human-tissue regulatory framework). But the honest position is that the whole exosome category in skincare is still early and not established: a 2026 review of 19 human studies found only short-term, unconfirmed associations, and a 2024 review concluded the regenerative-aesthetics field is not yet scientifically established. Plant cosmetic exosomes work through antioxidant delivery, soothing, and barrier support — they are NOT "regenerative" like the human/stem-cell exosomes used in clinical, often injected settings. Treat them as a promising supporting antioxidant carrier, not a proven results-driver. Full deep-dive: the exosomes explainer in the Journal.

## Identity

Exosomes are **extracellular vesicles** — tiny, lipid-membrane-bound sacs, roughly **30–150 nanometres** across — that cells release to communicate with one another. Inside, they carry a mixed cargo of signalling molecules: proteins, lipids, RNA, antioxidants, and peptides. The key fact most marketing skips is that this messaging system is **universal**: human cells, animal cells, and plant cells all release exosomes.

That universality is why "exosomes" in a cosmetic almost always means **plant-derived** exosomes (also called plant extracellular vesicles, or PEVs) — nano-sized, lipid-based particles from sources like strawberry, green tea, aloe, grape, ginseng, or centella. They can fuse with skin-cell membranes and deliver their cargo, which is the mechanistic basis for their cosmetic use. This entry is a short, graded reference; the full detective breakdown is in the Journal explainer, [what the science actually says about exosomes](/learn/what-are-exosomes-skincare).

## Development & history

- Exosomes were characterised through decades of cell-biology research as a genuine intercellular communication and repair system — the real science the trend is built on.
- Regenerative-medicine interest focused on **human/mesenchymal-stem-cell (MSC) exosomes**, studied in clinical and often injected settings — a regulated, medical lane.
- Cosmetic skincare adopted **plant-derived** exosomes instead, for two reasons: they are vegan, stable, and scalable, and — crucially — they fall **outside** the FDA's human-tissue (HCT/P) framework, making them the compliant route for over-the-counter products.
- The category became a mid-2020s "regenerative aesthetics" headline alongside stem cells and PDRN — with marketing running well ahead of the human evidence.

## Mechanism (as proposed)

Plant-derived cosmetic exosomes are best understood as **biologically active nano-carriers**. Their lipid membrane lets them associate with the skin surface and deliver an antioxidant, vitamin, and anti-inflammatory cargo, which is the plausible basis for antioxidant defence, soothing, and barrier support. Their small size (especially under ~100 nm) aids penetration.

What they are **not** is "cell-regenerating." Regenerative signalling — prompting collagen and tissue repair — is the claimed role of **human/stem-cell** exosomes, which are a different payload used in clinical, often injected contexts. Plant exosomes carry a non-human cargo and support the skin's appearance rather than remodelling its structure. Two honest caveats frame the whole category: most **plant** exosome data is still in-vitro or animal rather than human topical trials; and the broader positive signals for exosomes come largely from injected or in-office **human/MSC** exosomes, which do not transfer to a plant exosome in a cream. The reviews are blunt — the field is promising but not yet established.

Evidence grades by outcome:
outcome: Topical antioxidant / soothing / barrier support (plant-derived cosmetic exosomes)
grade: C
base: Mechanistically plausible — plant-derived exosomes carry antioxidant, vitamin, and anti-inflammatory cargo and are good nano-delivery vehicles — but the supporting data is mostly in-vitro (lab cells) or animal, with only small early human work.
effect: Plausible, modest antioxidant and soothing/barrier support as a supporting cosmetic ingredient
caveat: Most plant-exosome evidence is lab- or animal-based rather than human topical trials; benefits are modest and supportive, not transformative.
outcome: Short-term skin-appearance benefits (exosomes broadly — hydration, elasticity, fine lines, pores, pigmentation)
grade: C
base: A 2026 systematic review pooling 19 human studies found short-term associations with improved hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, pores, and pigmentation.
effect: Early, short-term associations reported
caveat: Most studies were not randomised, methods were heterogeneous, and follow-up was limited — the review framed the effects as early and not yet confirmed. Much of this signal comes from injected or in-office MSC (stem-cell) exosomes in clinical settings, which does not transfer to a plant exosome in a cosmetic cream.
outcome: "Regenerative" skin transformation from a topical (especially plant) exosome
grade: D
base: No topical evidence; regenerative signalling is the claimed role of human/stem-cell exosomes used clinically (often injected).
effect: Not supported for a plant/topical cosmetic
caveat: Plant exosomes act via antioxidant delivery and soothing, not cellular regeneration. Any product implying a topical plant exosome will "regenerate" skin borrows from the human clinical/injected lane and overstates the evidence.
outcome: Established anti-ageing category (the field as a whole)
grade: D
base: A 2024 PRISMA systematic review of regenerative aesthetics (covering exosomes alongside stem cells and PDRN).
effect: Not established
caveat: Despite some well-designed trials, the review found a prevalent gap in molecular and clinical evidence and concluded the field lacks the scientific rigour and regulatory compliance to be considered established.
outcome: Injected / clinical (MSC) exosome therapy — for context, NOT cosmetic scope
base: Human/stem-cell exosomes are studied in clinical and in-office (often injected or post-procedure) settings, where more of the exosome evidence sits.
effect: A separate, regulated, clinical lane — not a cosmetic topical
caveat: As of 2025 the FDA had NOT approved any exosome product for therapeutic use outside clinical trials; human-derived exosomes trigger the HCT/P (human cells/tissues) framework, and injected use carries procedural risks. Out of scope for a cosmetic reference and not what a topical serum delivers.
outcome: "FDA-approved" regulatory status
grade: F
base: Marketing claim
caveat: No exosome product is FDA-approved for therapeutic use outside clinical trials, and cosmetic ingredients have no FDA approval pathway at all, so there is no such approval to have been granted. Falling under the HCT/P framework is a regulatory classification, not an approval. This is a claim about regulatory status, not about skin — the human exosome data cited here measures skin appearance, not approval status.

Legal status:
region: INT
status: Lawful cosmetic ingredient (plant-derived)
note: Plant-derived exosomes fall outside the FDA HCT/P human-tissue framework (which governs only human-derived material), which is precisely why cosmetic exosome products are almost always plant-derived. Human-derived exosomes are NOT FDA-approved for therapeutic use outside clinical trials, trigger HCT/P regulation, and disease/treatment claims draw enforcement. This is regulatory context, not a health claim.

Cosmetic claims:
allowed: delivers antioxidants that help defend the look of skin against daily stress
helps skin look and feel calm, comfortable, and hydrated
a lightweight delivery ingredient for a supported, healthy-looking complexion
supports the appearance of a resilient skin surface
forbidden: regenerates skin
repairs or renews tissue
reverses ageing
stimulates collagen
treats or heals any condition
FDA-approved
anti-inflammatory (as a drug claim)

Note: Only plant-derived, cosmetic-appropriate exosomes are relevant to any sellable product, framed around appearance and comfort (antioxidant, soothing, barrier support) — never regeneration. The reference science below includes the human/clinical exosome context for completeness; it is a different, regulated lane and does not describe a cosmetic topical.
Honest note: The exosome category is early-evidence and heavily marketed. Cosmetic exosomes are plant-derived and act as antioxidant/soothing carriers, not regenerative agents; the "regeneration" story belongs to human/stem-cell exosomes in clinical, injected settings, which are unapproved outside trials and out of cosmetic scope.

Sources:
Systematic review of exosome-based skin rejuvenation pooling 19 human studies (2026) — short-term associations with hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, pores, and pigmentation, but mostly non-randomised, heterogeneous, and short-follow-up (framed as early and not yet confirmed).
PRISMA systematic review of regenerative aesthetics covering exosomes, stem cells, and PDRN (2024) — concluded the field lacks the scientific rigour and regulatory compliance to be considered established.
Kalluri R, LeBleu VS. The biology, function, and biomedical applications of exosomes. Science. 2020; 367(6478):eaau6977.
US FDA consumer/industry communications: exosome products are not FDA-approved outside clinical trials; human-derived exosomes are regulated under the HCT/P framework (21 CFR Part 1271).