Monitor Denim Deal
Results quantitative and
qualitative monitoring 2022
June 12, 2023

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2		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Introduction 								 				
Goals Denim Deal							 				
Definitions
Road to goals denim garments and jeans			
Monitoring approach
					 								
Results quantitative monitoring 		
Results monitoring 2022 denim garments
Additional individual goals denim garments
Results monitoring 2022 jeans						
More PCR-cotton in denim garments					
Share of 20% PCR-cotton in jeans is growing
Summary per goal
Results qualitative monitoring 				
Challenges of the industrial scale up
Challenge 1: more demand for recycled fabrics from brands
Challenge 2: more supply of feedstock for recycling
Related challenge: design for easier recycling
Related challenge: knowledge sharing regarding material specification
of PCR feedstock and innovation in recycling technology
Related challenge: more awareness among consumers
Willingness for international continuation of the Denim Deal

Introduction
On October 29, 2020, 28 parties signed the Dutch C-233 Green Deal on Circular
Denim (‘Denim Deal’). Signatories in the value chain, from producers, brands, retailers
to collectors, recyclers and public authorities, have jointly developed an approach to
take major steps towards using recycled textile in all denim products marketed in the
Netherlands. On January 1st, 2023 in total 49 signatories, including 8 brands and
retailers, were committed to the Denim Deal.
The signatories of the Denim Deal aim to close the denim loop by promoting the use
of high-grade post-consumer recycled cotton fibres (‘PCR-cotton’) in new jeans and
other denim garments. They committed themselves to the joint ambition of working as quickly as possible towards a new industry standard of 5% PCR-cotton used in
the production of all denim garments and will raise the bar in the future based on the
learnings of the Denim Deal. They will monitor annually the activities they have
undertaken to this end, the results achieved, and their effect and challenges towards
achieving the goals of the Denim Deal.
This annual report gives a general summary of the results and challenges during 2022
based on the outcome of the quantitative monitoring of all participating brands and
retailers and the qualitative monitoring done by 65% response of all signatories of the
Denim Deal. In this report they are reffered to as ‘participants’ (of the monitoring).

3		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Goals Denim Deal

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

All signatories of the Denim Deal undertake activities to achieve the following specific goals before the end of the
Denim Deal in December 2023.

R
C
P

3 MILLION

1

2

Brands and retailers will achieve a minimum of 5% post-consumer recycled cotton
(PCR-cotton) in their own denim collections during this period by working together
closely with other signatories.
Brands and retailers will achieve their own, individual and higher goals for PCR-cotton in
denim garments, and will set out their ambitions and approach in individual roadmaps,
based on the close collaboration with other signatories.

DENIM JEANS
MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM
20%

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM
DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS

R
C
P
5%
R
C
P
5%

R
C
P

20%

3

Brands and retailers will commit to individual ambitions designed to achieve the specific,
joint goal of using 20% PCR-cotton fibres in 3 million pairs of jeans produced by these
parties until the end of 2023.

3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

4		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

R
C
P

20%

R
C
P

Definitions
The monitoring considers the following definitions:

Denim is a cotton twill fabric, traditionally made from 100% cotton, but recently alternative fibres are added such as hemp,
linen and elastane. The product must contain at least 80% cotton. Denim is traditionally blue by using indigo dye to colour
the yarn in one direction. In practice, denim can have different colours and does not necessarily have to be indigo blue.
Denim garments are outer clothing made of denim (e.g. pants, dresses, skirts, jackets, shorts, shirts), except accessories
(caps, bags, etc.), which for the purposes of the Denim Deal does not include trimming.
Jeans are hard-wearing trousers made of denim.
Post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton) is recycled cotton from textile products that have been used by the end user(s)
for an indefinite period of time for the intended purpose and discarded and subsequently recycled, whereby the cotton
fibres of at least 98% cotton are reused in new products.
The data is compiled by FFact. Annual monitoring reports are planned each year up to 2024. The information in the report is
anonymized and aggregated. The monitor is based on a self-reporting methodology for a given reference date aimed to see
possible trends in the reported data. The results presented thus reflect the current state of affairs on the reference date.
Any later added changes or differences in the exact number can therefore occur.
5		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Road to goals denim garments and jeans
The figure below shows the supply chain of post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton).
seperated collection
of textiles

sorting of cotton

reﬁbering stock, blending PCR-cotton and virgin ﬁbres

production denim

distribution to consumers

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

PCR

PCR-cotton

6		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

3 MILLION
DENIM JEANS

20%

PCR

Monitor approach
The quantitative data in this report apply to the input of all
8 participating brands and retailers and not to the total market.
In order to collect quantitative data for 2022, the participating brands
received a standard monitoring form which needs to be completed.
One of the 8 brands was unable to provide data this year due to
circumstances. In this monitor it has been assumed that the 2022
data of this company was equal to 2021.
The aim of the qualitative monitoring is allowing the signatories of
the Denim Deal to share experiences, to see which activities and
efforts contribute to the Denim Deal, and which challenges they
experience while working on achieving the goals.
The qualitative data is collected by questioning all signatories
about the progress of efforts including the Metropolitan Region
Amsterdam (MRA)/local authorities, brand owners and retailers,
Ministery of Infrastructure and Water Management, textile waste
collectors, sorters, cutters, cleaners, fiberizers (mechanical treatment
or shredding), spinners, weavers, and all other participants like
Modint and NEN. The respons was approximately 65%. The response
is well distributed across the supply chain.
7		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

All participants received the standard monitoring form to be
completed annually. The form contains questions about their efforts
and results to achieve the goals of the Denim Deal in 2022, with a
focus on opportunities and challenges. A separate form has been
developed for each target group.
This report gives an overview of the answers given by the
participants. Initiatives of specific organizations that provide
additional insight into the overall progress are mentioned specifically.

Results quantitative
monitoring

8		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Results monitoring 2022 denim garments
The numbers below refer to the questions in the 2020, 2021 and 2022 monitoring forms. The figures refer to the share of denim garments
including jeans with post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton). The figures for 2023 will be included in this figure next year.
2020

2021

2022

122.487 pieces

464.869 pieces

691.950 pieces

8%

The number of denim
garments put on the Dutch
market and the share that
complies to the ambition of
a minimum of 5% PCR by
the brands and retailers
of the Denim Deal.

1.532.134 pieces (100%)

+18%

26%

1.860.623 pieces (100%)

+13%

2023

39%

1.784.460 pieces (100%)
MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

PCR

The share of denim garments
produced by the brands and
retailers of the Denim Deal
globally that complies to the
ambition of a minimum of 5% PCR.

9		 Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

12%

+28%

40%

+13%

53%

Additional individual goals denim garments
To look ahead to the coming years, the brands were asked about their individual goals for 2024. Therefore, brands and retailers have
reported their own, individual targets for post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton)in denim garments including jeans. The individual
targets given this year are more realistic than in the previous monitoring. Brands (5) indicated that the transition takes time. Most brands
have adjusted their targets. Last year targets of 35% to 100% PCR-cotton were indicated. Now, the highest values are 25% and 40%. Most
brands indicated that targets like 20% and 25% PCR-cotton are already an ambitious challenge.

brand owners

Individual targets

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

2024

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

10%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

15%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

20%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

25%

PCR

Most brand owners (5 out of 8) have set their own, individual and higher targets for
more than 5% PCR content in denim garments. These ambitious individual goals vary
from 10% - 40% by the end of 2024.

10		

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

40%

PCR

Results monitoring 2022 jeans
The numbers below refer to the questions in the 2020, 2021 and 2022 monitoring forms. The figures refer to the share of jeans with
post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton). The figures for 2023 will be included in this figure next year.

The number of jeans
put on the Dutch market
and the share that complies
to a minimum of 20% PCR
by the brands and retailers
of the Denim Deal.

2020

2021

105.033 pieces

395.717 pieces

8%

+28%

2022

36%

+5%

2023

Results 2020 + 2021 + 2022

593.688 pieces

mln

41%

10

>

20%

PCR

1.341.288 pieces (100%)

1.093.772 pieces (100%)

1.447.700 pieces (100%)

5

3 MILLION
DENIM JEANS

Much more than 3 mln
jeans achieved on global
market production

20%

PCR

The share of jeans produced
globally by the participating
brands and retailers of the
Denim Deal that contain at
least 20% PCR-cotton.

11		

> 3 MILLION
DENIM JEANS

13%

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

+29%

42%

+11%

Goal: 3 mln jeans

3 MILLION
DENIM JEANS

20%

53%

0

1.1 mln put on
Dutch market

PCR

Still more PCR-cotton in
denim garments
In 2023 seven of eight brands and retailers participated in the 2022 quantitative
measurement. There is a clear positive development in the increase in application
of PCR-cotton in denim garments and jeans. In general most participating brands and
retailers are aiming for higher targets than the 5%-PCR-content in the coming years.
The results of measurement show for 2022 that 41% of the volume of denim put on
the Dutch market by participants contains at least 5% PCR-cotton. In comparison with
2020 (8%), this is a substantial growth. And the volume of denim garments produced
by the participants worldwide containing at least 5% PCR-cotton has increased from
42% in 2021 to 53% in 2022.
Most participating brands and retailers expect to achieve 5% PCR in their own denim
garments in 2023, by working closely with other signatories.
Most brands and retailers (5 of 8) have set their own, more ambitious goals for
PCR content in denim garments than the aimed new industry standard of 5%.
Their individual goals vary up from 10% up to 40% by the end of 2024. However,
the individual targets given this year are much lower and more realistic than in the
previous monitoring.
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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Share of 20% PCR-cotton
in jeans is growing
The participating brands and retailers have put in total 1.5 million jeans on the Dutch
market in 2022. From the volume put on the Dutch market by participants 593,688
jeans (41%) contained at least 20% PCR-cotton. This is a relatively small part of the
amount of jeans put on the Dutch market annually. However, the volume of jeans put
on the Dutch market with 20% PCR increased from 8% in 2020 to 41% in 2022.
The results of the measurement show for 2022 that 53% of the volume of jeans
produced worldwide by participants contains at least 20% PCR-cotton. This is a
substantial growth compared to 2020. In 2020 13% of the volume produced by
participants contained 20% PCR.
On the global market the number of 3 million 20% PCR jeans was already reached
in 2021 and had now more than doubled this amount. However, it will be still a
challenge to reach 3 million 20% PCR jeans on the Dutch market only. To achieve
such amount during 2021 - 2023 would imply that nearly all jeans of the participating
brands should contain 20% PCR-cotton.

13		

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Summary per goal
1

2

3

14		

Brands and retailers will achieve a minimum of 5% post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton)in their own
denim collections by working together closely with other signatories.
In 2022 39% of all denim garments put on the Dutch market of the participating brands and retailers
contained at least 5% PCR and 53% of denim garments produced globally contained 5% PCR.
Most expect to achieve 5% PCR in denim garments in 2023.
Brands and retailers will achieve their own, individual and higher goals for PCR content in denim garments,
and will set out their ambitions and approach in individual roadmaps, based on the close collaboration
with other signatories.
Most (5 of 8) brands and retailers even aim for a higher percentage of PCR in denim garments.
The individual targets given this year are much lower but more realistic than in the previous monitoring.
Brands indicated that the transition takes time.
Brands and retailers will commit to individual ambitions designed to achieve the specific, joint goal of using
20% PCR-cotton fibres in 3 million pairs of jeans produced by these parties until the end of 2023.
On the global market the target of 3 million 20% PCR jeans was already achieved in 2021 and has already
surpassed this figure by far. However, it will be a challenge to reach 3 million 20% PCR jeans on the Dutch
market only with the brands that signed the Denim Deal.

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

PCR

MINIMUM
AMBITION
3 DENIM
MILLION
DENIM JEANS

5%
R
%
C
0
2P

PCR

3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS
DENIM
FRONTRUNNER
MINIMUM
0%
2
AMBITION
DENIM

PCR

5%
DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

R
C
P

3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS

20%

R
C
P

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

Results qualitative
monitoring
Developments and challenges,
a qualitative picture
behind the ﬁgures

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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Challenges of the industrial scale up

Sales and
marketing

The qualitative monitoring questions the participants
on their activities within the Denim Deal, results and
challenges to improve the use of post-consumer recycled
cotton (PCR-cotton) in new denim garments.
The previous qualitative monitoring (2021) showed
that an industrial scale up of post-consumer recycling
for new denim garments is necessary. For the year
2022 participants were asked what it takes to create an
industrial scale up. The five most important challenges
mentioned by the participants are included in the
following diagram.

of recycled fabrics
from brands

Design and
production

of PCR-cotton
recycling

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

Fiberering,
spinning,
weaving

16		

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

among
consumers

of feedstock for
recycling

Collecting
and sorting

Consuming
and
discarding

Challenges of the industrial scale up
We have identified five interdepending challenges regarding the
transition towards an industrial scale up of the post-consumer
cotton recycling industry. The qualitative monitoring shows two main
challenges:
1. More demand for recycled fabrics by brands;
2. More supply of feedstock to recyclers to produce post-consumer 		
recyled-cotton (PCR-cotton).
Besides these two main challenges, participants indicate that there
are three other related challenges:
1. Design for easier recycling;
2. Knowledge sharing regarding material specification of PCR
feedstock and innovation in recycling technology;
3. More awareness among consumers.
All of the challenges of the industrial scale up are, according to
the participants, strongly interdependent. More awareness among
consumers will have a pull on demand from brands for PCR-

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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

cotton; this will accelerate investments in innovation for recycling
technologies and capacity; feedstock from sorting will become more
valuable and the business case for sorted material will improve.
These main challenges and their interdependence were also
described in the MIS-analysis by the Utrecht University
(Hekkert et al, 2021): ‘Transition to Circular Textiles in the
Netherlands’. It is an innovation systems analysis of textile recycling
and refers to the above mentioned challenges as a ‘waiting game’
or ‘chicken-and-egg’ problem. This implies that the industry is
reluctant to design clothes with recycled fibers and that the industry
will produce garments with recycled cotton on scale only if volume,
quality and price are favourable. At the same time not enough PCR
feedstock is available. The qualitative monitoring indicates a similar
situation.
The hypothesis is that a breakthrough is possible by:
1) creating more demand for recycled fabrics and 2) creating more
supply of PCR-cotton feedstock.

Challenge 1: More demand for recycled fabrics by brands
Most participants indicate that there is a need for more demand for
recycled fabrics from brands. Right now textiles made of raw (virgin)
materials are still dominating the market. And in the case of using
recycled materials, brands currently focus on pre-consumer recycled
materials (also mentioned post-industrial) instead of post-consumer
recycled materials. The monitoring shows that the Denim Deal
activated the industry and that large brands that do not participate
in the Denim Deal also buy fabrics with recycled content from fabric
suppliers participating in the Denim Deal.

Sales and
marketing

of recycled fabrics
from brands

Design and
production

of PCR-cotton
recycling)

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

Fiberering,
spinning,
weaving

among
consumers

Consuming
and
discarding

of feedstock for
recycling

Collecting
and sorting

of recycled fabrics
from brands

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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

The brands are able to increase the demand for PCR-textiles by
increasing marketing efforts regarding fashion with recycled content.
As a result brands will give fabrics with PCR-cotton a more positive
image. While doing so, according to some participants, the brands
could be more transparent about the origin and composition of
their products. However, completely accurate traceability of the
origins of the materials is not guaranteed yet. To achieve this, more
transparency between supply chain partners regarding fabric quality
data and fabric origins (chain of custody) is needed.

Challenge 1: More demand of recycled fabrics by brands
However, some other participants have a different opinion.
They think that brands may choose to apply PCR-cotton in textiles
as a regular feedstock without specific separate communication
about the origin and composition to consumers.
To increase the quality of PCR-cotton, brands should aim to buy
recycled fabrics from mills with the same quality as raw material.
However, according to the participants the current quality of PCRcotton is far from competing with raw virgin cotton and still has a
long way to go. The current lack of availability of textiles with high
quality PCR-cotton to produce fabrics for consumers requires more
innovation in the recycling of PCR-cotton.
Another challenge mentioned is that brands need to develop credible
labels regarding PCR-cotton, to ensure that the quality of PCR-cotton
is being held to a certain standard and to prevent greenwashing.
Some participants of the monitoring indicate that it will help if brands
accept the additional costs of recycled cotton.

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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Challenge 2: More supply of feedstock for recycling
More supply of feedstock for recycling is required. According to
participants, this is related to current collecting and sorting systems,
the market and export barriers.
Collection
Participants indicated that the current collecting system in the
Netherlands can be improved by creating more awareness with
Sales and
marketing

of recycled fabrics
from brands

Design and
production

of PCR-cotton
recycling)

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

Fiberering,
spinning,
weaving

20		

among
consumers

Consuming
and
discarding

of feedstock for
recycling

Collecting
and sorting

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

of feedstock for
recycling

municipalities about dry and clean textiles collecting. Especially
collecting through above-ground-containers in combination with
a manual unloading system is preferable, so the discarded textiles
can be reused and recycled. If municipalities collect in underground
waste containers these should stay dry by appropriate maintenance
of the bins. Another important issue is the prevention of dumping
residual waste in textile bins, especially in Dutch municipalities where
citizens need to pay for discarding their residual waste.
Sorting for 100% post consumer cotton
According to the participants the sorting for recycling should be
stimulated, especially sorting for 100% post consumer cotton.
Therefore, more innovation in automated sorting is necessary.
In order to keep the sorting process affordable it is important to
increase the speed and accuracy of mechanical sorting by the
development with scan possibilities. Another related issue is that
some participants indicated that fiberizers pay too little for sorted
material and should pay the cost prize of sorting according.

Challenge 2: More supply of feedstock for recycling
Market place
The sales of feedstock by sorters are based on sales relations between individual
sorters and recyclers. There is no mature marketplace. This causes an unstructured
system without a stable supply chain. Improvements of the sales of feedstock can
be made by implementing material specifications and a proper guideline for sorting.
Trade barriers
Also trade barriers for exporting sorted textile waste across borders to production
countries outside of the EU are an issue. These cause high costs for import and high
freight charges. The Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water management is
exploring solutions for these trade barriers (primarily focusing on Turkey).
Some participants mentioned that current European policy does not make a choice
regarding where European discarded textiles should ultimately be recycled. This
means that the barriers to the export of textiles for recycling may not be resolved.
Brands and producers of recycled fabrics want import barriers to be removed so
that the global market for textile recycling in Turkey, Pakistan, India, China and Egypt
receives sufficient feedstock, also from Europe.

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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Related challenge: Design for easier recycling
In order to stimulate the use of PCR-cotton in fabrics and generate
more supply for recycling, design is often mentioned by participants.
Participants mentioned challenges on both sides: 1) understanding
using PCR-cotton and 2) making designs more suitable for recycling.

Sales and
marketing

of recycled fabrics
from brands

Design and
production

of PCR-cotton
recycling)

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

Fiberering,
spinning,
weaving

22		

among
consumers

Consuming
and
discarding

of feedstock for
recycling

Collecting
and sorting

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Understanding using PCR-cotton
According to participants, there is still a lack of understanding
among designers about using PCR-cotton. Designers need to know
more about how to design new clothing that contains PCR-cotton.
Therefore, more cooperation and knowledge sharing regarding
design and quality requirements between manufacturers of textiles
and brands is required. In this field, the following things are especially
mentioned: the diversity of terms, names and abbreviations for PCRcotton; limited data on fabric quality and limited availability of testing
reports on PCR-cotton; no data available for fabric performance and
knowledge building in design process.

Related challenge: Design for easier recycling
The monitoring shows that there are challenges in designing fabrics
with PCR-cotton, especially with the look and feel of the product, as
well as requirements for certain styles. To implement and phase out
styles without PCR-cotton takes a considerable period of time.
Making designs more suitable for recycling
Another issue is that there is still a lack of understanding among
designers about the way they can make their designs more suitable
for recycling. This means that designers must be made aware that
their choices regarding the design have consequences for how easily
garments can be recycled after they have been discarded.
The participants expressed the following remarks on requirements
to make a design more suitable for recycling:
• The PCR feedstock should consist of less mixed materials and more
mono materials.
• Polyester should be avoided in fibres, as it is too difficult to recycle
with the current mechanical recycling systems. For this material 		
we need innovations in chemical recycling.
• Garments that will be recycled should contain less buttons, zippers
and seams.
23		

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Related challenge:
Knowledge sharing regarding material specification of PCR feedstock
and innovation in recycling technology
Sales and
marketing

of recycled fabrics
from brands

Design and
production

of PCR-cotton
recycling)

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

Fiberering,
spinning,
weaving

24		

among
consumers

Consuming
and
discarding

of feedstock for
recycling

Collecting
and sorting

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

According to the fiberizers, spinners and weavers producing textiles
with post-consumer cotton (PCR-cotton) is still in the early stages
of development. At this time recycled materials are a mix of mostly
pre-consumer material and post-consumer material (varying from a
minimum of 2% to a maximum of 20% of post-consumer material).
Pre-consumer is regularly incorporated in the production of recycled
fabric whereas post-consumer is linked with the specific customer order requirement.
The objectives of the Denim Deal focus on the increase of the use
of post-consumer recycled cotton. In 2021 - 2022 brands and manufacturers carried out more pilots with fabrics containing PCR-cotton
to build up more experience with post-consumer material. Efforts of
switching current denim qualities to PCR-cotton versions have been a
massive undertaking.

Related challenge:
Knowledge sharing regarding material specification of PCR feedstock
and innovation in recycling technology
Currently, there is a lack of high quality and payable feedstock
being delivered by the sorters to recyclers (fiberizers, spinners
and weavers), which makes the recycling process a lot harder.
The question is how the quality and volume of feedstock of mono
material of discarded textiles can be improved. According to
participants, sorters cannot solve the problem alone. Innovations
of the dying and spinning processes are also an important step.
And if polyester was used in a blend, recycling of that material will
be more difficult than using mono materials. Participants indicate
that it is important to include this aspect in the design.
Despite that, according to some participants, textile fiber companies
are already working with upstream industrial textile waste collection
and sorting companies for many years, there is still a need for more
cooperation to improve the recycling process. Especially, more
knowledge sharing is necessary between sorters and fiberizers,
spinners and recyclers about material specification of feedstock for
25		

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Related challenge:
Knowledge sharing regarding material specification of PCR feedstock
and innovation in recycling technology
recycling. Participants indicated that developing guidelines for
sorters could help in the knowledge sharing process. To improve
the recycling process, it is mentioned that it is important to
share material-related data and not so much any confidential
process-related data.
The first set of guidelines for the sorters are expected to be delivered
by the end of this year (2023), in which sorters get clear material
specifications to the criteria set by the recyclers.
Further innovations and investments in recycling technology will
also help to improve the application of PCR-material in fabrics.
The previous monitoring (2021) concludes that there is a need
for a higher quality of PCR-cotton in denim. Brands and recyclers
mentioned that five quality requirements are important:
• Quality/long stable fiber length (needed for spinning quality yarn)
• Appearance/aesthetic of the garment
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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

• Texture of the fabric (feel and touch)
• User quality
• Longevity garment
Ideally, we should be able to make textiles with the same quality
as textiles made of raw virgin materials. Innovations should focus
on improving manufacturing processes because a higher recycled
content than 20% PCR-cotton currently generate a weaker strength
and then it is more difficult to run in denim processing as dyeing,
weaving and finishing.
Another challenge is to achieve a higher quality by removing all
synthetic fibers. During the weaving of the denim it is sometimes not
yet visible, but when the cloth is dyed or treated, these irregularities
become visible. However, by then the canvas is almost ready.

Related challenge: More awareness among customers
The increase of marketing of fashion with recycled content from
the brands will help to increase customer awareness; brands should
promote sustainable clothing with recycled post-consumer textiles
as a fashion trend. Consumers should become more aware of the
environmental benefit of PCR-cotton and increase the demand for
brands with PCR. Culture spreading regarding wearing recycled
fabrics is important, so consumers will become more aware of the
benefits of recycling and the equality to virgin fabrics.

Sales and
marketing

of recycled fabrics
from brands

Design and
production

of PCR-cotton
recycling)

KNOWLEGDE
SHARING regarding
material
speciﬁcation and
INNOVATION in
technology

Fiberering,
spinning,
weaving

among
consumers

Consuming
and
discarding

of feedstock for
recycling

Collecting
and sorting

among
consumers

27		

Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Brands currently give priority to high quality fabrics with PCR-cotton
comparable to the quality of virgin cotton fabrics. However, other
stakeholders suggest that communications about the environmental
benefits of PCR-cotton should get priority. According to participants,
the marketing efforts of brands should focus on increasing willingness
to buy sustainable fabrics.

Related challenge: More awareness among customers
Furthermore, consumers should get access to credible information
about the origin of PCR in labels, so they can verify the reliability of
recycled fabrics. The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation
(ESPR) is an EU initiative to make sustainable products the norm in
the EU. Part of the proposal is to develop a passport for products,
including for textiles, which will increase traceability for parties in the
supply chain and will enable that consumers could get insight into
environmental effects. This also makes it more difficult to come up
with sustainability claims without substantiating them.
With the increase of awareness among consumers they should also
learn to properly drop discarded textiles in textile bins1. If consumers
dispose of their textile waste properly, the supply of feedstock
for recycling will increase and the recycling process will become
considerably easier.
1) Consumers discard about 55% (FFact 2018) of their old textile products in ordinary
residual waste.

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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Willingness for international follow-up of the Denim Deal
The Denim Deal has connected stakeholders in the supply chain and
has exposed the difficulties in the use of post-consumer recycled cotton
(PCR-cotton) in new denim across the complete value chain (from
production to recycling and back again). According to participants,
the Denim Deal is an important platform to share knowledge and
gain latest developments in circular denim and increase culture and
information about the benefits of recycling. The monitoring shows that
collaboration between all participants is required to unlock the
current waiting game between the parties in the supply chain.
The Dutch Denim Deal has made an important step to demonstrate
that it is possible to work with PCR-cotton. In order to make a true
impact this initiative needs to expand and create change across
multiple regions and at a global scale.
Above mentioned reasons are given by almost all participants and
indicate that the Denim Deal should be continued. However, the Denim
Deal is a Dutch initiative and there is a need for further international
follow-up of the Denim Deal to encourage a worldwide change of
thinking. It is important to generate more demand for recycled PCR
fabrics and more supply of feedstock. In addition, this will support
more investments in new sorting and recycling technologies.
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Monitoring Denim Deal 2022

Brands and producers of recycled fabrics want import barriers to be
removed so that the global market for recycling in countries like Turkey,
Pakistan, India, China and Egypt receive sufficient feedstock from
Europe. However, the current European policy does not strictly define
where European discarded textiles ultimately should be recycled: in
Europe or in the production countries.
The monitoring shows it is important that more brands participate in
any follow-up of the Denim Deal, especially the demand for PCR-cotton
should come from the brands. Furthermore it is mentioned that in the
future, other easy-to-recycle product groups besides denim should
be added, such as bath and bed linen. If participants choose for any
follow-up of the Denim Deal, it can be investigated in consultation with
the Steering Committee of the Denim Deal and Stichting UPV Textiel
(Dutch EPR-organisation) whether from 2025 the Denim Deal coalition
can introduce innovation projects - to be further defined - in the EPR
systems in the Netherlands and France, as first adopters of an EPR
strategy for textiles. Cooperation can also be sought with initiatives
such as the Ellen MacArthur foundation Jeans Redesign initiative and
frontrunners such as HNST jeans in Antwerp.

Together
we make
sustainability
visible

www.ffact.nl
info@ffact.nl
+31 15 257 6384
+31 6 5383 2456

Photographs in this report are
courtesy of Mudjeans, PVH,
Kings of Indigo, Agi Denim,
Garcia and Wolkat.

FFact Mcs B.V.
Het Slot 9
2622 KH Delft
KvK Haaglanden:
18052228

Rijkswaterstaat commissioned this report on behalf of
the Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management.

Steering Committee
Denim Deal
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