Quantitative monitoring
brands and retailers
Baseline 2020
December 21, 2021

1		

Introduction
On October 29, 2020, 28 parties signed the Dutch C-233 Green Deal on Circular Denim
(‘Denim Deal’). Signatories in the value chain, from collectors and recyclers to producers,
brands, retailers and public authorities, have jointly developed an approach to take major
steps towards using recycled textile in all denim products marketed in the Netherlands.
On July 1st, 2021 in total 36 signatories were committed to the Denim Deal. This includes
8 new signatories.
The signatories of the Denim Deal aim to close the denim loop by promoting the use of
high-grade post-consumer recycled cotton fibres (‘PCR-cotton’) in new jeans and other
denim garments. They committed themselves to the joint ambition of working as quickly
as possible towards a new industry standard at 5% PCR-cotton used in the production
of all denim garments and will raise the bar in the future based on the learnings of the
Denim Deal. They will publish transparent annual reports of the activities they have
undertaken to this end, the results achieved, and their effect towards achieving the
goals of the Denim Deal.
All data in this quantitative report apply to the 7 participating brands and retailers and
not to the total market.

2		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

Goals Denim Deal

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

R
C
P

All signatories of the Denim Deal undertake activities to achieve the following specific goals before the end of the Denim
Deal in December 2023.
3 MILLION

1

2

Brands and retailers will achieve a minimum of 5% PCR content in their own denim
collections during this period by working together closely with other signatories.
Brands and retailers will achieve their own, individual and higher goals for PCR content in
denim garments, and will set out their ambitions and approach in individual roadmaps,
based on the close collaboration with other signatories.

DENIM JEANS
MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM
20%

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM
DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS

R
C
5P%
PCR
5%

R
C
P

20%

3

Brands and retailers will commit to individual ambitions designed to achieve the specific,
joint goal of using 20% PCR cotton fibres in 3 million pairs of jeans produced by these
parties until the end of 2023.

3 MILLION

R
C
P

DENIM JEANS

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

20%

R
C
P

This monitoring report provides the results of the quantitative baseline monitoring 2020 based on a monitoring form
completed by all 7 brands and retailers in the Denim Deal to report on the Denim Deal goals and results.
DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

3		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

Definitions
The monitoring considers the following definitions:

Denim is a cotton twill fabric, traditionally made from 100% cotton, but recently alternative fibres are added such as hemp,
linen and elastane. The product must contain at least 80% cotton. Denim is traditionally blue by using indigo dye to colour
the yarn in one direction. In practice, denim can have different colours and does not necessarily have to be indigo blue.
Denim garments are outer clothing made of denim (e.g. pants, dresses, skirts, jackets, shorts, shirts), except accessories
(caps, bags, etc.), which for the purposes of the Denim Deal does not include trimming.
Jeans are hard-wearing trousers made of denim.
PCR-cotton is recycled cotton from textile products that have been used by the end user(s) for an indefinite period of time
for the intended purpose and discarded and subsequently recycled, whereby the cotton fibres of at least 98% cotton are
reused in new products.
The baseline data is compiled by FFact. Annual monitoring reports are planned each year up to 2024. The information in
the report is anonymized and aggregated. This annual report was adopted in the Steering Committee of the Denim Deal.

4		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

Road to goals denim garments and jeans
The figure below shows the supply chain of PCR cotton.
seperated collection
of textiles

sorting of cotton

reﬁbering stock, blending PCR cotton and virgin ﬁbres

production denim

distribution to consumers

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

PCR

PCR-cotton

5		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

3 MILLION
DENIM JEANS

20%

PCR

Results baseline monitoring 2020 denim garments
Following the results of the baseline monitoring of 2020 the numbers below refer to the questions in the baseline 2020 monitoring
form. These are the figures of denim garments including jeans. The figures over 2021, 2022 and 2023 will be included in this figure in
subsequent years.
2020

2021

2022

2023

122.487 pieces
8%

The number of denim
garments put on the Dutch
market and the share that
complies to the ambition of
a minimum of 5% PCR by
the 7 brands and retailers
of the Denim Deal.

1.532.134 pieces (100%)
MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

PCR

The share of denim garments
produced by the 7 brands and
retailers of the Denim Deal
globally that complies to the
ambition of a minimum of 5% PCR.

12%

6		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

Additional individual goals denim garments
Brands and retailers have reported their own, individual targets for PCR content in denim garments including jeans.

brand owners

Individual targets

2023

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

5%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

10%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

20%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

80%

PCR

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

90%

PCR

%
100

PCR

Most brand owners (6 out of 7) have set their own, individual and higher targets for more than 5% PCR content in denim garments.
These ambitious individual goals vary from 10% – 20% up to 80%, 90% and even 100% PCR-cotton by the end of 2023.

7		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

Results baseline monitoring 2020 jeans
Following the results of the baseline monitoring of 2020 the numbers below refer to the questions in the baseline 2020 monitoring form.
The figures over 2021, 2022 and 2023 will be included in this figure in subsequent years.
2020

2021

2022

2023

105.033 pieces

The participating brands and
retailers have put in total
1,3 million jeans on the
Dutch market in 2020.

8%

1.341.288 pieces (100%)
3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS

20%

PCR

The share of jeans produced
by the 7 brands and retailers
of the Denim Deal globally that
contains at least 20% PCR cotton.

13%

8		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

Summary
Brands are willing to monitor
For 2021 seven brands and retailers participated in the 2020 baseline
measurement of the Denim Deal. Potential new signatories will participate in the monitoring after joining.
Results denim garments
The results of the baseline measurement show for 2020 that from the
volume put on the Dutch market by the 7 participants, 8% contains
at least 5% PCR-cotton. And 12% of the volume of denim garments
produced by the participants worldwide contains at least 5% PCR cotton.

Results jeans
The participating brands and retailers have put in total 1,3 million jeans
on the Dutch market in 2020. This is a relatively small part of the amount
of jeans put on the Dutch market annually. From the volume put on the
Dutch market by participants 105.033 jeans (8%) contains at least 20%
PCR-cotton.
The results of the baseline measurement show for 2020 that 13% of
the volume of jeans produced worldwide by participants contains at
least 20% PCR cotton.

All 7 brands and retailers aim to achieve a minimum of 5% PCR content
in their own denim collections during the Denim Deal. By working closely
with other signatories from 2021 onwards (one company expects to
achieve this in 2022).
Most brands and retailers (6 of 7) have set their own, more ambitious
goals for PCR content in denim garments than the aimed new industry
standard of 5%. Ambitious individual goals vary up from 10% – 20% to
80%, 90% and even 100% PCR-cotton at the end of 2023.

9		 Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

AMBITION
DENIM

Summary per goal
1

2

Brands and retailers will achieve a minimum of 5% PCR content in their own denim collections by
working together closely with other signatories.

Most participating brands and retailers expect to achieve 5% PCR in denim garments
in 2023.

Brands and retailers will achieve their own, individual and higher goals for PCR content in denim
garments, and will set out their ambitions and approach in individual roadmaps, based on the close
collaboration with other signatories.

Most brands and retailers even aim for a higher percentage of PCR in denim garments.

Brands and retailers will commit to individual ambitions designed to achieve the specific, joint goal of using
20% PCR cotton fibres in 3 million pairs of jeans produced by these parties until the end of 2023.

3

10		

On the global market the number of 3 million 20% PCR jeans is achievable for the
participants during 2021 – 2023, depending on their efforts. However, it will be a challenge
to reach 3 million 20% PCR jeans on the Dutch market only. To achieve such amount during
2021 - 2023 would imply that nearly all jeans of the participating brands should contain
20% PCR. With the current number of brands this target will not be reached. It would take
more brands and retailers in the Netherlands to join the Denim Deal.
Monitoring report Denim Deal - Quantitative monitoring brands and retailers baseline 2020

5%

R
C
P

MINIMUM
3 MILLION
AMBITION
DENIM
JEANS
DENIM

50%%
2 R

C
P
PCR

3 MILLION

DENIM
DENIM
JEANS
FRONTRUNNER
MINIMUM
AMBITION
DENIM

20%

R
C
P%
5
R
C
P

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

3 MILLION

DENIM JEANS

20%

R
C
P

DENIM
FRONTRUNNER

Together
we make
sustainability
visible

Auteurs:

www.ffact.nl

Mr. Drs. F. Hopstaken

info@ffact.nl

drs. J.L.S. de Vries
J. Sikkema

+31 15 257 6384

Drs. M. van der Maesen

+31 6 5383 2456

Ing. F. Custers
FFact Mcs B.V.
Het Slot 9
2622 KH Delft
KvK Haaglanden:
18052228

Steering Committee
Denim Deal
11