Shōchū
Typically shōchū contains 25% alcohol by volume, which is weaker than baijiu, whiskey or vodka but stronger than huangjiu, sake or wine. It is not uncommon for multiply distilled shōchū, which is more likely to be used in mixed drinks, to contain up to 35% alcohol by volume. Etymology. The word is the Japanese rendition of the Chinese "shaojiu" (), meaning "burned liquor", which refers to the heating process during distillation. The Chinese way of writing "shaojiu" with the character 酒 is considered archaic and obsolete in modern Japanese, which uses the character 酎. Nevertheless, both characters mean "liquor". Culture . Drinking. "Shōchū" should not be confused with sake, a brewed rice wine. Its taste is usually far less fruity and depends strongly on the nature of the starch used in the distilling process. Its flavor is often described as "nutty" or "earthy". "Shōchū" is drunk in many ways according to season or personal taste: "Shōchū" is widely available in supermarkets, liquor stores, and convenience stores in Japan while canned chuhai drinks are sold in some of Japan's ubiquitous vending machines. However, it is more difficult to find "shōchū" outside Japan except in urban areas with large enough Japanese populations . Interest in shōchū has begun to grow in North America, particularly in cosmopolitan cities such as Los Angeles, San Francisco, Vancouver, Toronto, and New York. Dedicated shōchū bars have begun to appear in New York and more than 100 brands are now available in the U.S. market. In Kyūshū, the center of production, "shōchū" is far more common than "sake". Indeed, here ""sake"" (酒) generally refers to "shōchū", and is normally consumed mixed with hot water. First hot water is poured into the glass, then shōchū is gently added. The liquids mix naturally and stirring is unnecessary. Typically, the amount  of shōchū exceeds the amount of hot water and is enjoyed for its aroma. Occasionally, "shōchū" and water are mixed, left to stand for a day, and then gently heated. Boom. The early 21st century witnessed a consumer boom in shōchū within Japan, and in 2003 domestic shipments surpassed those of sake for the first time. Shōchū bars appeared serving shōchū exclusively, and premium brands with a focus on particular ingredients, production methods, or aging techniques entered the market. The beverage has undergone a change of image; formerly it was seen as an old fashioned drink, but now has become  trendy amongst young drinkers, particularly women. The boom also had negative effects: It caused a serious shortage of sweet potatoes, a basic ingredient of some popular types of shōchū and, with the emergence of expensive premium brands, pricing scams appeared. In 2005 the Japanese television drama "Kiken na Aneki" illustrated this change in drinking habits. Its plot centered on the Minagawa family of Miyazaki Prefecture, who were brewers of a sweet potato shōchū called imojōchū. The lead character Hiroko (Ito Misaki) spends the majority of the series trying to come up with enough money to save the brewery from loan  sharks, but in the process becomes involved with corporate distilleries. The larger companies formulate an advertising campaign that results in the imojōchū becoming a popular drink. In this fictional account, the beverage is marketed to young women when it previously had been mostly consumed by the older male generation. There are several reasons for shōchū's recent popularity. With increasing health-consciousness, many people see it as more healthy than some alternatives. There have been well-publicized claims of medical benefits, including that it can be effective in preventing thrombosis, heart attacks, and diabetes. It is also a versatile drink  that is suited to most styles of cuisine. Shigechiyo Izumi, a Japanese citizen who apparently lived to be 105, made shōchū part of his daily dietary regimen. This practice was mentioned along with his record in the "Guinness Book of World Records". Because of his intimate passion for shōchū, many have speculated that shōchū is healthy and can actually promote longevity. This even prompted some local Ryūkyū shōchū brewers to market a special Longevity Liquor (長寿の酒) shōchū bearing his name on the front label. Despite these claims, Izumi's personal physician strongly advised against drinking shōchū, as his kidneys were  not strong enough to process shōchū in his advanced age. But Izumi went on to say: "Without shōchū there would be no pleasure in life. I would rather die than give up drinking." History. The exact origin of shōchū is unclear. Shōchū was originally called araki (araq in Arabic) or rambiki (alembic in English) in Japan; "arak" is a generic term for a variety of distilled alcoholic drinks throughout the Middle East. Alcoholic distillation originated in Persia, spreading west to Europe and east to India, Thailand and Okinawa. Around the mid-16th century, the technique arrived in Kagoshima, where shōchū was  born. The distilled alcoholic beverage in Okinawa is known as "awamori". As far as can be determined from the Japanese historical record, shōchū appears to have been made since at least as far back as the 16th century. When the missionary Francis Xavier visited Kagoshima Prefecture in 1549, he recorded that "the Japanese drink arak made from rice [...] but I have not seen a single drunkard. That is because once inebriated they immediately lie down and go to sleep." The oldest existing direct reference to shōchū in Japan can be found at Kōriyama Hachiman shrine in Ōkuchi, Kagoshima. There, two  carpenters working on the shrine in 1559 inscribed the following graffiti on a wooden plank in the roof: "The high priest was so stingy he never once gave us shōchū to drink. What a nuisance!" From these early times through to the Edo period shōchū was produced throughout Japan in the traditional kasutori way, using a single round of distillation. During the Meiji period, machinery for repeated distillation was imported from Great Britain, making cheap mass production of high-purity shōchū possible during a time of chronic rice shortages. Shōchū made the traditional way was called "old-style shōchū" and  that produced using the new multiple-distillation machinery "new-style shōchū." Definition and classification. Japan's alcohol taxation law, as revised in April 2006, defines two categories of shōchū (also called "white liquor"). Multiply distilled shōchū. Alcohol distilled more than once with special machinery for that purpose, diluted for sale to an alcohol by volume level of less than 36%, that meets the following conditions: Until the 2006 revision the law referred to this category as , sometimes abbreviated to "kōshu" (甲焼). "Kōrui" (Class A) in the classification of shōchū simply means classification and does not mean that the quality is  superior to that of "Otsurui" (Class B). It is generally distilled from a fermented liquid similar to molasses. Repeated distillation forms ethyl alcohol of high purity which is typically odorless and has a taste of little distinction. Water is then added, and the precise nature of this water has subtle effects on the taste and palatability of the shōchū. Shōchū kōrui is made from sweet potato, potato, and corn. It is generally produced in modern large factories. Distillers make shōchū kōrui by weakening the distilled alcohol. The specialized distillation equipment, called a patent still lends it to mass production at  low cost, so large corporations produce this kind of shōchū in high volume. In Japan, it retails in plastic bottles, cans, and paper cup form and is consumed as a cheap alcoholic drink. It forms the base of several cocktails and liqueurs such as chūhai and umeshu. Singly distilled shōchū. Alcohol distilled using other than multiple-distillation machinery, with alcohol by volume of no more than 45%, from one of the following: Until the 2006 revision the law referred to this category as , sometimes abbreviated to "otsushu" (乙焼). "Otsurui" (Class B) in the classification of shōchū simply means classification and  does not mean that the quality is inferior to that of "Kōrui" (Class A). The equipment used for single distillation is called a pot still. As the shōchū is distilled just once it retains the character of the base ingredient, typically rice, barley, or potato, with a strong taste and aroma. Small-to-medium size enterprises make most brands, with the island of Kyūshū famous as the center of production. Recently however larger corporations have been entering the market. Maturation. Fresh shōchū is shipped after maturation. Maturation techniques vary in storage vessel and location, both of which affect the character  of the shōchū. The most commonly used containers for aging shōchū are stainless steel tanks, clay pots, and wooden barrels or casks. As a result of maturation, the flavor, and aroma of shōchū settle. Maturation generally takes between one and three months. Maturation from three to six months is called "beginning maturation". During this period, sharp flavors in the shōchū generally decrease. Shōchū matured from six months to three years usually has a mellow taste. A shōchū called "long-term maturation" is matured for more than three years. But long-term maturation does not always improve the flavor. On the  other hand, long-term maturation is particularly effective for "awamori". Distillers often mature "awamori" for longer than ten years. Locations. Shōchū is matured in various places to impart unique flavors, typically where there are minimal variations in temperature and humidity. These places include tunnels and limestone caverns. Honkaku shōchū. Until 2006 Japanese postwar tax law classified shōchū into "kōrui" and "otsurui" types. The terms and are Chinese celestial stems typically used for classification, and mean something akin to "Grade A" and "Grade B" respectively. Fearing a tendency to believe that otsurui shōchū is somehow inferior to kōrui shōchū, the Kyūshū  Otsurui Shochu Producers' Association lobbied the Finance Ministry, and in 1962 succeeded in having , or authentic shōchū, recognized as an alternative name. The name is believed to have been coined in 1957 by Enatsu Junkichi, the president of Kirishima Brewery of Miyakonojō, Miyazaki Prefecture. However, since the term was not formally defined naming disputes arose. As a result, on 1 November 2002, the law was clarified and shōchū satisfying any of conditions 1 to 5 of the above definition of singly distilled shōchū can be called honkaku shōchū. Those satisfying the final condition are excluded. Shōchū consumption in Japan by  categories. 2016 Shōchū consumption in Japan by categories (tax base) is as follows; Moromitori shōchū. Most singly distilled shōchū is moromitori shōchū (もろみ取焼酎). This name derives from its production process: Kōji. mold, a kind of "Aspergillus" fungus, has a profound effect on the final taste of the shōchū. There are three varieties of kōji mold with distinct characteristics. Water. Water is one of the most important ingredients for making shōchū. The quality of water affects that of shōchū directly. Various kinds of water are used in the process of making shōchū. Varieties. There is a broad variety of moromitori shōchū . Four locations have achieved protection as geographical indications under World Trade Organization TRIPS article 23 and are noted below. Rice shōchū. shares its base ingredient with sake. It has a fairly thick taste, and appears to have originally developed in regions too warm for sake production. Kumamoto Prefecture is particularly well known for its production of rice shōchū. Notably produced in Hitoyoshi-bonchi is protected as a geographical indication. Rice shōchū is also produced in regions famous for their sake, such as Niigata and Akita prefectures. Barley shōchū. is generally less distinctive than rice shōchū and easy to drink. However , if cask-aged the taste can be quite sharp and strongly reminiscent of single-malt whisky. Ōita Prefecture, Miyazaki Prefecture, and Iki in Nagasaki Prefecture are strong centres of production. has also been given protection as a geographical indication. Sweet potato shōchū. uses sweet potato, widely cultivated across southern Kyūshū since the Edo period, as its base ingredient. Originally it was almost exclusively produced in Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures, but nowadays is made across Japan using locally grown sweet potatoes. It tends to have a strong taste and a distinctive smell; more recently producers have made varieties whose aroma is  somewhat suppressed. Kagoshima's has been given protection under WTO rules as a geographical indication. The 1956 film "The Teahouse of the August Moon" portrayed an American-occupied Okinawan village rebuilding its economy with potato shōchū. The taste of potato shōchū is a bit smoky, evocative of some whiskeys. Brown sugar shōchū. From the Edo period through to the time of the Pacific War, the Amami Islands produced drinks such as "awamori" and a distilled alcohol based on brown sugar. From the middle of the war through to the American occupation, because of a shortage of rice (the base ingredient  of awamori) and an inability to export the sugar-based alcohol to the mainland, a large surplus was produced. In 1953, when the Amami Islands were returned to Japanese sovereignty, the alcohol was not classified as "shōchū" under the 1949 alcohol tax law and therefore would attract a high rate of tax. The Ministry of Finance, taking into account the desire of local residents and as part of a strategy to promote the region, gave special recognition to the local alcohol as . This recognition was geographically restricted to the Amami Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture and was conditional on the use  of rice kōji. This regional restriction remains in place to this day; as can be seen in the legal definition of singly distilled shōchū above. Typically, brown sugar shōchū contains 30% or 25% alcohol by volume. Contrary to what might be expected, brown sugar shōchū has a mild and not particularly sweet taste, as it contains no sugar. Nowadays it is produced in 25 breweries in 5 islands: Kikaijima, Amami Ōshima, Tokunoshima, Okinoerabujima and Yoronjima. Awamori, however, is no longer made outside Okinawa Prefecture. Before the war, another alcoholic drink based on brown sugar was made in the Ogasawara Islands . Its name translates as "sugar alcohol" and could be seen as a form of brown sugar shōchū. Production ceased because of the war, but recently, aiming to revive its popularity, similar alcohol, using no rice kōji, has been introduced. However, as Ogasawara does not qualify for the above special regional exemption, this alcohol is instead classified as rum or spirits. Soba shōchū. Soba, or buckwheat, has origins going back to just 1973 when Unkai Brewery Co., of Gokase, Miyazaki Prefecture, developed it using soba from the local mountainous region as its base ingredient. Since then shōchū producers across Japan have  produced it, sometimes as part of a shōchū blend. The taste is milder than barley shōchū. Awamori. Okinawa is the home of , which uses rice as its base ingredient. Prior to April 1983, it was labeled otsurui shōchū, but is now properly called "Authentic Awamori". Awamori is made from Thai long-grained "indica" crushed rice, not the usual short-grained "japonica" of standard shōchū. The fermentation process employs black koji mold indigenous to Okinawa rather than the standard white variety, and secondary fermentation is not performed. Fermentation is done in a way that creates plenty of citric acid, allowing it  to be produced all year round despite Okinawa's hot climate. After distillation its strength is reduced with water to about 25% alcohol by volume, although some varieties go as high as 65%. Japanese law classifies awamori as a singly distilled honkaku shōchū despite the different production processes. With its method of production, awamori could theoretically be made anywhere in Japan, but Ryūkyū Awamori (琉球泡盛) is a protected geographical indication restricted to Okinawa. Others. Japanese law admits a very wide range of unusual base ingredients, such as perilla leaf, sesame and chestnut, and shōchū made from most if not all  of these exists. For example, there is a milk shōchū brand called "Makiba-no Yume". Others are generic shōchū mixed with a particular fruit juice or extracts. With its peculiarity, such shōchū is typically intended to catch the eye of visitors to a region and has attracted limited broader appeal. Soba shōchū is a good example of one that has managed to achieve more widespread success. Kasutori shōchū. In contrast to moromitori shōchū, is made by distilling the sake lees leftover from the fermentation of sake. It is a form of honkaku shōchū. It first became popular in the north  of Kyūshū, and then spread to other areas, being manufactured during a period when it was not possible to brew refined sake across Japan. It is also widely used in sake production to stop fermentation before it is complete, which can help prevent degradation or give a dry taste. Shōchū made for this purpose is called . During the Edo period shōchū lees were used as a fertilizer during the rice-planting season. Many farms, therefore, installed distillation equipment to distill sake lees to produce shōchū lees. Whilst the lees were used in the fields, the distilled alcohol was drunk, or  offered to the gods, at the festival held at the end of the rice-planting season to pray for a bountiful harvest. Kasutori shōchū has therefore also come to be known as sanaburi shōchū. Owing to the recent surge in popularity of shōchū in Japan, an increasing number of manufacturers have been making kasutori shōchū. Most kasutori shōchū is made in modern ways, shōchū made via older production processes has decreased sharply. People who wish to preserve Japanese culture call shōchū produced the historical way , such drinks have been revitalized by their activities. Slang usage. Confusingly kasutori is also a  slang term for a separate, inferior form of shōchū. After the Pacific War, in a chaotic society with a shortage of good alcohol, moonshine shōchū began to circulate. Its source and ingredients were not apparent, and in extreme cases contained toxic methyl alcohol diluted with water. Such shōchū with ill side-effects became known as "kasutori", and the association with poor shōchū lingered, sometimes even affecting the image of "real" respectable kasutori shōchū. The expressions "kasutori literature" and "kasutori culture" also came to be associated with the upheavals of the postwar period. Blended shōchū. Singly distilled and multiply distilled shōchū  can be mixed to form . Formerly it was often mislabeled "honkaku shōchū", or had no indication of mixing or relative volumes. Starting in 2005 the industry regulated itself and created the blended shōchū mark, with subcategorization based upon the relative volumes used. Singly distilled shōchū makes up 50%–95% of the total volume of "singly distilled blended shōchū". This category is targeted at those viewing pure singly distilled shōchū as having too strong a smell or taste, aiming to be softer and more easily drinkable. In "multiply distilled blended shōchū" singly distilled shōchū makes up 5%–50% of the total volume. With  a focus on price, this tries to combine the cheap mass-production benefits of multiply distilled shōchū whilst introducing some of the distinctive flavor and aroma of the singly distilled form.