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Dagboek: Week 2
Ons tweede week het begin by Letaba Ranch. Die kamp op die oewers van die Groot Letabarivier was, soos altyd, uitstekend.
Ons het in die pad gespring en gery, rigting Gravelotte. Net duskant Gravelotte sien ons reeds reuse mynbou aktiwiteite. Anderkant die dorp draai ons af na Leydsdorp.
Leydsdorp is vernoem na die Staatsekretaris van die Zuid Afrikaansche Republiek. Hy is een van Paul Kruger se Hollanders – staatsamptenare wat Kruger ingevoer het om die staatsdiens in die Boererepubliek te kom behartig.
In die 1870’s is goud ontdek in die omgewing wat later bekend sou staan as Leydsdorp. Dit het ‘n stormloop veroorsaak. Duisende het hulle gehaas na die dorpie waar daar erts met beitel en hamer uit die berg gehaal is, fyn gemaak is en goud ontgin is.
Leydsdorp was ‘n woelige plek. Kroeggevegte, geselskapsdames, allerlei onheil was aan die orde van die dag. Talle het gesterf, soos inderdaad blyk uit die reuse begraafplaas.
By die Leydsdorp Hotel ontmoet ons vir Antonie Lombard. Hy wys vir ons in die kroeg waar daar ‘n kelder verdieping is. Die lyke is in die koelkelder gehou tot die ander manne nugter genoeg was om die liggame te gaan begrawe.
Ons ontmoet ook vir ou vriend Edward Vorster van Letsitele. Hy het vir geskiedenis professor Louis Changuion saamgebring. Louis vertel ons van talle legendes wat oor Leydsdorp ontstaan het. Die een is dat Paul Kruger gereeld die plek besoek het om te kom jag. Die ander is dat Leydsdorp vir ‘n dag tot ‘n stad verklaar is, sodat Kruger wetgewing kon teken (blykbaar mag ‘n wet net in ‘n stad onderteken word). Daar is selfs dié wat beweer dat die stadstatus nooit opgehef is nie, en dat Leydsdorp daarom vandag nog ‘n stad is – inderdaad die kleinste stad in die wêreld.
Louis sê dat mens seker nie die waarheid moet laat inmeng met ‘n goeie storie nie.
Saam met Louis en Antonie het ons ook gaan kyk na die skagte .
Die middag is ons Letsitele toe. Pieter Vorster het vir ons gewag met sy Squirrel helikopter. Ons het saam met hom gevlieg na Modjadji om te kyk na die pragtige broodbome, en daarna oor die sitrusboorde van die Laeveld. Dit is indrukwekkend. Vir Nina was dit ‘n eerste keer in ‘n chopper. Sy kan nie uitgepraat raak nie.
Met ons terugkeer is ons saam met Edward na die kampe waar hulle wilde honde aanhou. Mens mag nie met die wilde honde teel nie, maar niemand het dit vir die honde gesê nie. Nou is daar sommer ‘n groot werpsel kleintjies. Hulle is te pragtig.
Dag een van week twee was ‘n besige dag!
Vroeg oggend is ons saam met Edward na sy wildkampe. Hy is baie trots op die swartwitpense wat hulle teel. Mopani is een van die mooi bulle. Hy kom uit wes Zambië. Sy kleur is bietjie ligter as die Suid Afrikaanse swartwitpense. Mopani het sommer ‘n groot harem waarna hy omsien.
Ons het ook Edward se bont klipspringertjies gesien. Hulle is pragtig.
Om met wild boerdery te begin kan duur wees. As dit eers aan die gang is, en mens is nie gulsig nie, kan dit lonend wees. Maar om dit te begin het die Vorsters eers ‘n baie suksesvolle sitrus besigheid aan die gang gekry. Ons is na die pakhuis.
Die sitrus word na die pakhuis gebring. Die lemoene, nartjies, pomelo’s en suurlemoene word afgelaai, gewas, gespuit met ‘n klein lagie was, gesorteer en verpak in kartonne. Die kartonne word gemaak in Mahela se eie karton fabriek. Elkeen van die gepakte kartonne word presies geïdentifiseer met strepies kodes, voor dit uitgevoer word na Indië, China, Bangladesj, Rusland, Europa, Skandinawië, die Verenigde Koninkryk, Kanada… Mahela is feitlik uitsluitlik toegespits op die uitvoer bedryf.
Na die pakhuis is ons na Modjadji. Tommie van Zyl van ZZ2 het gereël dat die regent ons te woord staan.
Die vorige twee Reënkoninginne is skielik, kort na mekaar, oorlede. Die aangewese koningin was nog skaars twee jaar oud. Daarom is ‘n regent aangestel. Hy is Mpapatla Modjadji. Dis reeds 16 jaar wat hy as regent optree.
Modjadji het ons die koningin se paleis gewys. Ook waar die tromme vir seremonies gestoor word. Ook die plek waar gaste tuisgaan. Of dit die mag van die Reënkoningin was, of die besoek van die Voetsporespan, is nie seker nie, maar terwyl ons by die paleis was het daar ‘n onseisoenale reënbui uitgesak.
Ons het ook gaan kyk na die broodbome. Talle is beskadig deur ‘n brand ‘n jaar gelede, maar dit bly steeds een van die mees indrukwekkende broodboom woude wat daar is.
Ons het vroegoggend vertrek van Mahela, rigting die Wolkberge. Net buite Tzaneen het Piet Snyman en Ron Nicolle vir ons gewag. Dis twee manne wat in die Wolkberge gaan rondloop en rondry, net wanneer hulle die geleentheid kry.
Ons is oor die Letabarivier tot by ‘n klein waterval. Vandaar na ‘n plek waar daar ‘n waterskeiding is tussen die Letaba- en Mohlapitsiriviere. Toe met ‘n 4×4 roete, berg op.
Bo op die Wolkberg is gras vlaktes. Ons het ‘n paar rietbokke gesien. Dit was koud, mistig en reënerig.
Ons het die Wonderwoud ingegaan. Dit is eenvoudig pragtig. Ou man se baard wat hang van die takke. Massiewe geelhout bome. Talle ander inheemse bome.
Ons het kamp gemaak in die woud. Dit was nat en reënerig, maar die woud het ons omvou. Nina het ‘n tamatiesop gemaak en Norbert het roosterkoek op die vuur gemaak. Dit was net die regte medisyne. Dié nag het almal baie lekker geslaap in ons tente.
Dou voor dag is die spannetjie op, en is ons terug, berg af.
Die roete het ons weer teruggeneem oor Tzaneen en Gravelotte tot by Hoedspruit. Die dorp is ‘n uitstekende aanvullingspunt. Ook Hoedspruit kry swaar met die Corona virus pandemie. Sonder enige toeriste sukkel meeste besighede.
Net na 13:00 ontmoet ons Colin Rowles. Hy is die hoof natuurbewaarder by die Klaserie Privaat Natuurreservaat. Colin is ons gasheer vir die volgende paar dae.
Ons is af met die loop van die Klaserierivier. Dit is maar koelerig. Blykbaar die koudste dag dusver die jaar. Dit veroorsaak ook dat die wild nie baie aktief is nie. Selfs by die watergate gebeur daar nie veel nie, want diere raak nie so dors soos gewoonlik nie.
Ons sien tog heelwat wild. Sebras, kameelperde, impalas, olifante…
Laat middag maak ons kamp in die veld langs ‘n dam. Dis heerlik om in die wildtuin te wees, en sommer te kamp waar ons kom.
Die nag het daar ‘n hiëna kom kuier in die kamp. Ons het sy beweging opgetel met die nagvisie kamera. Gelukkig het hy nie moeilikheid gemaak nie. Hiënas bly nuuskierige diere.
Ons sien ‘n trop sebras dam toe kom om te kom suip. Ook ‘n troppie rooibokke.
Naby die dam is ‘n renoster toilet. Die renosters gebruik ‘n paar sulke plekke om hulle terrein af te baken. Hulle kom mis telkens op dieselfde plek. Colin wys vir ons die verskil tussen die mis van ‘n wit en swart renoster. Die een vreet gras, die ander een vreet blare.
Ons sien weer eens talle sebras en kameelperde.
Middagete is onder ‘n jakkalsbessieboom.
Net na middagete ry ons verby ‘n troppie rooibokke. Skielik is daar ‘n gespartel. ‘n Rooibok, met ‘n luiperd wat aan sy pens hang, hardloop verby die voorste voertuig. Toe kom die luiperd los, die rooibok hardloop in een rigting en die luiperd in ‘n ander. Dit was iets om te sien!
Ons stop by ‘n dam met ‘n klompie seekoeie. Op ‘n eilandjie in die dam lê een van die grootse krokodille wat ek nog gesien het. Daar is ook koedoes en waterbokke wat kom suip.
Toe die son sak kom ons aan by die Olifantsrivier. Ons maak kamp.
Streicher braai hoender en wors wat ons by Retha Jacobs, Klaserie se Administrasie Bestuurder se vrou vir ons gestuur het. Nina maak beetslaai en aartappelslaai. Die seekoeie snork in die rivier, hiënas lag in die verte, ons hoor takke kraak soos die olifante tussen die riete vreet. Dis nog ‘n uitstekende aand.
Our second week starts at Letaba Ranch. Camping on the banks of the Greater Letaba River is, as always, excellent.
We hit the road, direction Gravelotte. Nearing Gravelotte we already notice massive mining activities. Beyond the town we take a turn to Leydsdorp.
Leydsdorp is named after the Government Secretary of the Zuid Afrikaansche Republiek. He is one of Paul Kruger’s Dutchmen – government officials that he introduced to come and work in the Boer Republic.
In the 1870’s gold was discovered in this area, later known as Leydsdorp. It created a gold rush. Thousands of people hurried to this little town where ore was taken from the mountain earth with chisel and hammer, crushed and mined for gold.
Leydsdorp was a busy place. Bar brawls, prostitutes, and various profanities were current. Many died, as can clearly be seen from the large cemetery.
At the Leydsdorp hotel we meet Antonie Lombard. He shows us the bar’s cellar. The corpses were kept in this cool cellar until the men were sober enough to bury the bodies.
We also meet a very dear and old friend, Edward Vorster from Letsitele. He brings along a professor in history, Professor Louis Changuion. Louis narrates the many legends of Leydsdorp. One is that of Paul Kruger who regularly came here to hunt. The other is that Leydsdorp was declared a town for only one day, in order for Paul Kruger to sign legislation. (Apparently a law can only be signed in a town). Rumour has it that the status was never lifted and therefore Leydsdorp is known as the smallest town in the world.
Louis exclaims that the truth should never be allowed to interfere with a good story.
We accompany Louis and Antonie to look at the mine shafts.
In the afternoon we go to Letsitele. Pieter Vorster awaits us with his Squirrel helicopter. We fly to Modjadji to take a look at the beautiful cycads and then the Lowveld’s citrus orchards. Most impressive. It is Nina’s maiden flight and she is not at a loss for words.
On our return Edward takes us to his camp with wild dogs. It is illegal to breed wild dogs, but nobody instructed the dogs. There is even a new litter. They are beautiful.
Day one of week two was hectic!
Early in the morning Edward takes us to his game camps. He is very proud of the sable that they breed. Mopani is one of their show bulls. He originates from west Zambia. His hide is lighter than the South African sable. Mopani has a huge harem to tend to.
We also see Edward’s spotted klipspringers. They are beautiful.
To start game farming can be very expensive. Once it gets going, and greed does not step in, it can be very lucrative. The Vorsters first started by being very successful in citrus farming. We visit their warehouse.
The citrus is delivered to the warehouse. The oranges, naartjies, grapefruit and lemons are unloaded, washed, sprayed with a thin layer of wax, sorted and packed in cardboard boxes. The boxes are manufactured in Mahela’s own cardboard factory. Individually packed boxes are identified with bar codes and exported to India, China, Bangladesh, Russia, Europe, Scandinavia, the United Kingdom, Canada … Mahela is exclusively focused on export.
After visiting the warehouse, we go to Modjadji. Tommie van Zyl from ZZ2 has arranged for an audience with the regent.
The previous two rain queens passed away shortly after each other. The designated queen was only two years old at the time and therefore a regent was appointed. He is Mpapatla Modjadji and has reigned for the past 16 years.
Modjadji shows us the queen’s palace. Also, where the ceremony drums are kept, as well as where the guests stay. It is still unsure whether it was the rain queen’s power or the Voetspore team’s visit, but a heavy unseasonal shower of rain came down on the palace.
We also go to look at the cycads. Many have been damaged by last year’s fire, but it remains one of the most impressive existing cycad forests.
We leave Mahela early the next morning, direction Wolkberg. Piet Snyman and Ron Nicolle wait upon us just outside Tzaneen. These two men explore the Wolkberg whenever possible.
We cross the Letaba river to a small waterfall and proceed to the water division point between the Letaba and Mohlapitsi rivers. Then we take a 4×4 uphill mountain route.
The top of the Wolkberg is a grassy plain. We spot a few rietbuck. It is cold, foggy and rainy.
We enter the Wonderwoud forest. It is absolutely breathtaking. The old man’s beard hang from the trees. Massive yellowwood trees. Many other indigenous trees.
We set up camp in the forest. It is cold and rainy, but we are enfolded by the forest. Nina prepares tomato soup and Norbert roosterkoek on the fire. Just what the doctor ordered. We slept soundly in our tents that night.
The team rises before dawn and return downhill.
Our return route takes us through Tzaneen and Gravelotte to Hoedspruit. This town is excellent for replenishments. Hoedspruit also suffers from the Corona virus pandemic. Most businesses have a hard time without tourists.
We meet up with Colin Rowles after 13:00. He is the head game ranger at Klaserie Private Game Reserve. Colin will be our host for the next few days.
We go down the Klaserie riverbed. It is chilly. Apparently, the coldest day of the year so far. Wildlife is not as active as a result thereof. Even no action at the watering holes, because the animals are not as thirsty as usual.
We nevertheless spot plenty of game. Zebra, giraffe, impala, elephant …
Late in the afternoon we set up camp next to a dam. What a pleasure to visit the game reserve and to pitch camp anywhere we choose.
That evening a hyena visits our camp. We pick up his movement through our night vision camera. He luckily did not cause any trouble. Hyenas are very inquisitive animals.
We notice a dazzle of zebra approaching the dam. Also a few impala.
Close to the dam is a rhino midden. Rhinos deposit their dung in a few of these community toilets to mark their territory. Colin shows us the difference between the dung of the white and black rhino. The one feeds on grass and the other on leaves.
We once again spot several zebra and giraffe.
Lunch is served in the shade of a jakkalsbessie tree.
Shortly after lunch we pass a small herd of impala. Suddenly a struggle takes place. An impala with a leopard clinging to its belly runs past our vehicle. The leopard then frees itself and they both scramble in different directions. What a sight to witness!
We stop at a dam with hippos. On the island lies one of the biggest crocodiles I have ever seen. There are also kudu and waterbuck drinking water.
We arrive at the Olifant river at sunset. We set up camp.
Streicher braais the chicken and sausage that Retha Jacobs, Klaserie’s Administration Manager sent us. Nina prepares beetroot and potato salad. Far away we can hear the hippo grunt, hyena laugh, and the sound of breaking branches as the elephant graze in the reed. Another excellent evening.
Dagboek: Week 1 Dagboek: Week 3