Engine cutting out - Page 2 - Hilux 4x4 Forum
Nee die gewone swart chip
Gistraand weer begin met sy nonsens toe ek wou ry...sommer die +V & -V direk battery toe gevat, nie eers 'n snik van a dag oud nie. So ek dink ek't hom finaal gewen, maar ek ek is ni lus om geld te spandeer op n nuwe TP100 as ek klaar 'n kompleet Spitronic setup het wat net wag om geinstalleer te word nie
Maar nog altyd die Rooi igniter gebruik. Myne bv vat ek ook nie ignition na die ignite toe nie, om sodoende enige water shorts ook te verminder.
I have good news from my side, my problem with the engine cutting out seems to be sorted!! It was actually fixed two weeks ago, I just wanted to have a proper trip (to Waterval Boven) and some city driving before making the post.
On inspection of the vehicle the technician found that the battery terminal connector was loose. This was strange as I fitted a new battery a couple of weeks before the problem started again and I made sure the connector was properly secured. The technician replaced the connectors for both the positive and negative wires with new ones and walla, problem gone!
I hope it stays away, in my case it was a simple solution for less than R500.
To trouble shoot these problems are quite difficult, I was very lucky that step one seemed to be the problem.
Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:47 am
Also haven't had any issues since bypassing the TP100, but I think I'll still replace the Dicktator with the Spitronics .
Stef, I'm glad you seem to have figured it out. Mine had almost exactly the same symptoms for almost a year. In the process of sorting it out I replaced the dizzy cap, rotor, leads, plugs, battery, fuel filters, fuel pressure regulator. I checked the injectors and cleaned out the petrol tanks. I tested with a different Dicktator module and ECU, and still it cut out. When I had done all I can, Louis took over. He could see on the computer that there was a voltage problem, but we still couldn't figure out where exactly. The last thing we did was to replace the alternator charging wire and go through all the connections in the loom. I couldn't see any problems with the connections, but it could be that just manipulating the wires fixed whatever was loose. The alternator charging cable was definitely dodgy, so it's more likely that was the problem (although it still cut out with a new, fully charged battery, so I don't know).
The trouble with these kinds of issues it that each time you think you've solved the problem. Then 50km later it does it again and you're back to square one! Luckily I've now done about 5000km without a hiccup, so hopefully it's now a problem of the past! Also, just about everything else is new so I should have many trouble-free miles ahead .
Tx Rudi, also glad it's sorted because it was damn annoying.
Louis told me 'bout the alternator wire, but the one on my bakkie seems to be ok. Still no issues thus far
Last edited by Stef on Thu Dec 14, 2017 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
Stef, doen jouself n guns en vat n 16mm draad direk van jou battery na jou alternator toe. Dan weet jy verseker jou battery kry genoeg krag van die alternator. Die bonus is al is daar niks fout met jou standard alternator draad nie , jou battery hoer volts laai met die dikker draad op. Ek het net n national luna inline fuse of die draad gesit
Danki oom Dawie, dit is di plan...wil sommer di winch drade ook sort
Bad news. Mine started cutting out again after I did a major service ahead of our trip to Zambia. The only thing I touched in the ignition system was the spark plugs, and they were replaced with exactly the same ones (except that when I had it tuned at MRD they narrowed the gap slightly on the old ones).
Could it be something with the plugs, or maybe the leads not making good contact? It’s not missing or anything, when it goes it goes well.
Otherwise I’m inclined to replace the wiring loom, and I’m also considering swapping out for a Spitronics. I’m tired of not knowing where this problem is.
Ag nee Rudi dis mos nou net wat jy nodig het....
Op die Dictator kyk of die oranje LED flikker as jy hom probeer start na hy uitgesny het maw kry jy pulse van die pickup in die dizzy.
As j 'n Magnetic pickup het en daar is nie sein nie kyk na jou spasie tussen die pickup en die rotor, moet so klein as moontlik wees.
Dan kan jy kyk na die mag adaptor.
Laastens as dit nie een vd bogenoemde is nie, kyk of jou bedrading standaard is, maw kom die pickup se toevoer vd TP100 af of nie. Indien wel meet die spanning tussen +V en batt -
asook tussen -V en batt - , laasgenoemde belangrik want as hy te naby is aan +V se spanning gaan jy geen trigger kry nie. Lees my post verder op.
Persoonlik dink ek die optic is beter, baie minder wat kan fout gaan. Daar is 'n man langs Lombard tyres in Voortrkker weg wat die ombouing kan doen, hy doen al MRD se goed; my R300 gevra om optic te vervang, so 'n ombouing kan ook nie te duur wees nie
Stef, ek het met Johan by MRD gepraat en hy se daar is soms probleme met die pickup by die distributor en soms is dit bedrading. Die distributor probleme (veral as dit ‘n magnetiese pickup is) veroorsaak dat die distributor eers ‘n bietjie moet afkoel voor dat dit weer start. In my geval as dit uitsny dan start dit weer onmiddelik, so dis moeilik om te weet of die oranje liggie flikker of nie.
I drove about 100km today without a hiccup (annoyingly since I had it hooked up logging on my computer). I never touched the distributor when I was servicing the car so to me the wiring is looking like the most likely culprit. Even if it’s going fine again now I’d like to cut out as many unknowns as I can before we go to Zambia.
I took a look at the connector for the TP100 (below), but I’m not sure how to rewire it. Can I reuse the same connector?
janee dis moeilik....dis hoekom ek so lank gesukkel het want die fout is nooit lank genoeg daar om hom te soek nie. Myne het aan die begin ook so te se dadelik gestart en met tyd alhoe erger geraak.
As ek na daai plug kyk dan is +V en -V nie gebruik nie, want daar is net 3 konneksies, coil - , GND en input vd Dicktator (2de v regs)
Jy kan daai plug en pins koop, in pakke van 100 dis 'n Amp connector; ek het gesukkel om een los te kry, het op die ou end 'n sample uit die verspreiders uit gekry. Probeer Caelex in Pta wes, hulle mag dalk die pins he maar ek weet hulle hou nie die plug self aan nie. Kyk ook hier https://www.performanceproducts.co.za/i ... -Plug.html
Ek sou se sit 'n ander mag adapter in, dis net R100 of so, as dit nie werk nie vervang die TP100, so R500
Stef wrote: Jy kan daai plug en pins koop, in pakke van 100 dis 'n Amp connector; ek het gesukkel om een los te kry, het op die ou end 'n sample uit die verspreiders uit gekry. Probeer Caelex in Pta wes, hulle mag dalk die pins he maar ek weet hulle hou nie die plug self aan nie. Kyk ook hier https://www.performanceproducts.co.za/i ... -Plug.html
Dankie Stef, ek het een by MRD gekry. Bietjie duurder maar tenminste kan ek dit onmiddelik kry.
Ek het alreeds die TP100 geruil om te toets en die probleem het nie weggegaan nie, so ek weet die probleem is iewers anders.
lekker; ek twyfel of dit die plug is, maar ja, doen hom oor dan weet jy dis reg
Al wat ek kan nog kan dink is die mag adaptor. Check alles wat met die trigger te doen het, as daai sein vou dan stop di Dicktator alles.
Dalk kan jy die kabel tussen batt - en die starter check as jy se dat daar probleme was met die alternator draad
Mag Adaptors moet jy feitlik die bordjie breek voor dit 'n probleem maak. Hulle gee min moeilikheid.
Iets om na te kyk is die immobiliser. Myne laat uit haal paar jaar gelede omdat die ding my engin laat uitsny het op die lang pad.
Ek al op vd forums gelees dat di ouens sukkel met konneksies op di mag adaptor.
Ma mens weet nooit....skakel dit uit dan weet mens
I think I found the problem. Rewired the engine and replaced the mag adapter but I think they were all fine. I think there’s an occasional minor short on the cable running to the second battery at the back. Not enough to cause other instruments to cut out but it causes enough noise for the ECU to freak out.
Now testing it on our trip to Zambia! I’ll need to rig a temporary positive cable for the second battery (or we’ll have warm beers, and that is not a fate worth contemplating). I have 2mm wire with me - would that be thick enough for a DC-DC charger?
I would also say 4mm2 minimum...2 mil will cause voltage drop
Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:25 am
Thanks! Will see what I can find on the way, otherwise I’ll double up on 2mm.