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Glikane (glycans) is ’n term waarmee die gewone persoon glad nie vertroud is nie. Die meeste van ons is ook nie bewus daarvan dat daar lank reeds studies oor gedoen is nie. Dit het alles in 1857 begin toe die [...]
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Draad: CTEK D250S DUAL - Die einde van dubbelbatteryprobleme?
Boodskappe 458	Wat ry jy? Fiat Panda 4x2, maar hopelik binnekort 'n Jimny (donasies welkom!)
Die einde van dubbelbatteryprobleme
Dis ’n nagmerrie om in die Sentraal-Kalahari te sit met ’n yskas vol tjops en plathoenders wat ontdooi omdat jou ekstra battery pap is. Maar dit gebeur. Gereeld. Die groot probleem met dubbelbatterystelsels is dat jy nooit jou ekstra battery, wat gewoonlik ’n diepsiklusbattery is, behoorlik kan vol laai deur jou alternator en ’n herleier of soleno�ed nie. ’n Alternator laai jou ekstra diepsiklusbattery (105 Ah) net tot op dieselfde vlak as jou aansitter se battery, en dis maar 13,8V. Dit gaan jou boonop sowat 12 uur se ryery vat om hom gelaai te kry. As jy ’n sterk slimlaaier by die huis het, laai hy die diepsiklus tot 14,4V, binne ’n paar uur.
Wel, hier’s die oplossing. CTEK verkoop ’n sogenaamde DC na DC laaier wat jy eenvoudig in die positiewe en negatiewe drade na jou tweede battery installeer, en hy laai jou tweede battery tot 14,4V in minder as drie uur. Dit werk – diegene wat dit gedoen het, kan nie uitgepraat raak nie. Die laaier het ook ’n sok vir ’n sonpaneel, wat jy direk kan inprop, sonder ’n reguleerder. CTEK het vir WegRy ’n eenheid gegee om te toets – ons laat weet wat ons dink.
Prys? Aanbevole kleinhandelprys – R2850
Kontak: Enige goeie buitelug- of 4x4-winkel. CTEK: 011 447 1370; bob.van.mieghem@ctek.co.za; www.ctek.co.za
WegRy s�: Jy kan dalk vra: Maar hoekom doen almal dit nie? Kyk na die prys…
One�s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.
Tel. +27 21 443 9861
Antwoord met aanhaling 01-08-12, 14:53
Boodskappe 3	Wat ry jy? Toyota Hilux 4l dubbelkajuit.
Re: CTEK D250S DUAL - Die einde van dubbelbatteryprobleme?
Ek het as ’n leek wat nie veel van elektrisiteit af weet nie, ’n paar vrae. Daarmee wil ek nie s� die ouens wat dit gebruik en nie daaroor uitgepraat kan raak nie, is leuenaars nie! Di� dinge maak net my kop deurmekaar:
1. Ek kan verstaan dat die laaier by die huis, wat ’n krag toevoer van van 220V en 15A het, die battery 100% vol (14,4V) kan laai.
2. Maar hoe kan ’n laaier wat van ’n alternator via die voorste battery, die tweede (diepsiklus) battery tot 14,4V laai as die bron (die battery �f die alternator waar hy die krag vandaan kry) net 13,8V lewer? D.w.s., hoe kan hy meer uitsit as wat hy inkry?
3. �n, hoe kan hy dit vinniger lewer as wat hy dit kry?
Duidelik is die laaier slimmer as ek. Maar miskien wonder ander ouens ook?
Nog ’n vraag: het Toast Coetzer of Jaco Kirsten (of so iemand) nie ’n artikel met dieselfde strekking in Weg of Wegry geskryf nie?
Antwoord met aanhaling 01-08-12, 15:32
2) Die laaier jaag die stroomsterkte op, ek is nie seker hoe nie, maar dit kan byvoorbeeld gedoen word deur dit deur 'n "inverter" in wisselstroom te verander, en dan deur 'n transformer op te jaag.
3) Jou alternator maak tussen 65A en 130A (gewoonlik 90A). Daar is dus genoeg krag om 'n 105A/H battery binne se 90minute te laai, mits daar geen ander krag gebruik word nie (wat nooit die geval is nie), maar hoe vinnig die battery laai word bepaal deur die stroomsterkte wat beskikbaar is by die battery, en dit is hoekom die goed so vinnig kan laai.
Ek is egter nog nie seker of daar nie ander nadele is nie, BV hoe die battery se temperatuur beheer word ens.
Antwoord met aanhaling 01-08-12, 19:21
Daai C-tek monitor die battery se temperatuur. A sensor on the CTEK D250S Dual senses the battery temperature and adjusts the required charge by increasing the voltage in cold weather ensuring the battery is fully charged, and dropping the voltage in hot weather to avoid the problems of overcharging.
Last edited by WegRy-admin; 02-08-12 at 09:41.
Antwoord met aanhaling 03-08-12, 13:31
Moenie alles glo nie. Hy stoot wel die Volt op na 14.4 maar kan maks 20A laai. Vir een diepsiklus battery sal hy redelik werk, as jy 2 het soos ek moet jy 2 laaiers koop wat duur word of 10-12 ure ry. 'n Lead Crystal of AGM battery is 'n beter opsie, wel duurder vir die battery maar jy het nie die laaier nodig nie, hulle laai baie vinnig vol teen 13.8V. Ouens wat steeds gewone diepsiklus batterye koop moet gerus navorsing doen en kyk na AGM soos Optima en die nuwe Deltec Lead Crystal.
Antwoord met aanhaling 03-08-12, 20:33
Plek Kempton Park, Gauteng, South Africa
Boodskappe 92	Wat ry jy? 2006 Fortuner D-4D 4X4
Regte naam Charles Viljoen
Lees eers weer die' oor batterye..........
LEAD ACID BATTERY CHARGING HOME SITE INDEX CATAMARAN HULL SOLAR PANELS ELECTRIC MOTORS BATTERIES CREW EXPEDITION SPONSORS GOODIES
State of Charge: Here are no-load typical voltages vs state of charge (figured at 10.5 volts = fully discharged, and 77 degrees F). Voltages are for a 12 volt battery system. For 24 volt systems multiply by 2, for 48 volt system, multiply by 4. VPC is the volts per individual cell - if you measure more than a .2 volt difference between each cell, you need to equalize, or your batteries are going bad, or they may be sulfated. These voltages are for batteries that have been at rest for 3 hours or more. Batteries that are being charged will be higher - the voltages while under charge will not tell you anything, you have to let the battery sit for a while. For longest life, batteries should stay in the green zone. Occasional dips into the yellow are not harmful, but continual discharges to those levels will shorten battery life considerably. It is important to realize that voltage measurements are only approximate. The best determination is to measure the specific gravity, but in many batteries this is difficult or impossible. Note the large voltage drop in the last 10%.
Battery Charging: Battery Charging takes place in three basic stages: Bulk, Absorption and Float Bulk Charge - The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batteries at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is no "correct" voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current that the battery and/or wiring can take. Absorption Charge: The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts. Float Charge: The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging. PWM, or "pulse width modulation" accomplishes the same thing. In PWM, the controller or charger senses tiny voltage drops in the battery and sends very short charging cycles (pulses) to the battery. This may occur several hundred times per minute. It is called "pulse width" because the width of the pulses may vary from a few microseconds to several seconds. Note that for long term float service, such as backup power systems that are seldom discharged, the float voltage should be around 13.02 to 13.20 volts. Chargers: Most garage and consumer (automotive) type battery chargers are bulk charge only, and have little (if any) voltage regulation. They are fine for a quick boost to low batteries, but not to leave on for long periods. Among the regulated chargers, there are the voltage regulated ones, such as Iota Engineering and Todd, which keep a constant regulated voltage on the batteries. If these are set to the correct voltages for your batteries, they will keep the batteries charged without damage. These are sometimes called "taper charge" - as if that is a selling point. What taper charge really means is that as the battery gets charged up, the voltage goes up, so the amps out of the charger goes down. They charge OK, but a charger rated at 20 amps may only be supplying 5 amps when the batteries are 80% charged. To get around this, Statpower (and maybe others?) have come out with "smart", or multi-stage chargers. These use a variable voltage to keep the charging amps much more constant for faster charging. Charge controllers A charge controller is a regulator that goes between the solar panels and the batteries. Regulators for solar systems are designed to keep the batteries charged at peak without overcharging. Meters for Amps (from the panels) and battery Volts are optional with most types. Most of the modern controllers have automatic or manual equalization built in, and many have a LOAD output. There is no "best" controller for all applications - some systems may need the bells and whistles of the more expensive controls, others may not. Battery Charging Voltages and Currents: Most flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the "C/8" rate for any sustained period. "C/8" is the battery capacity at the 20-hour rate divided by 8. For a 220 AH battery, this would equal 26 Amps. Gelled cells should be charged at no more than the C/20 rate, or 5% of their amp-hour capacity. The Concorde AGM batteries are a special case - the can be charged at up the the Cx4 rate, or 400% of the capacity for the bulk charge cycle. However, since very few battery cables can take that much current, we don't recommend you try this at home. To avoid cable overheating, you should stick to C/4 or less. Charging at 15.5 volts will give you a 100% charge on Lead-Acid batteries. Once the charging voltage reaches 2.583 volts per cell, charging should stop or be reduced to a trickle charge. Note that flooded batteries MUST bubble (gas) somewhat to insure a full charge, and to mix the electrolyte. Float voltage for Lead-Acid batteries should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9-13.4 volts for a 12 volt battery. At higher temperatures (over 85 degrees F) this should be reduced to about 2.10 volts per cell. Never add acid to a battery except to replace spilled liquid. Distilled or deionized water should be used to top off non-sealed batteries. Float and charging voltages for gelled batteries are usually about 2/10th volt less than for flooded to reduce water loss. Note that many shunt-type charge controllers sold for solar systems will NOT give you a full charge - check the specifications first. To get a full charge, you must continue to apply a current after the battery voltage reaches the cutoff point of most of these type of controllers. This is why we recommend the charge controls and battery chargers listed in the sections above. Not all shunt type controllers are 100% on or off, but most are. Flooded battery life can be extended if an equalizing charge is applied every 10 to 40 days. This is a charge that is about 10% higher than normal full charge voltage, and is applied for about 2 to 16 hours. This makes sure that all the cells are equally charged, and the gas bubbles mix the electrolyte. If the liquid in standard wet cells is not mixed, the electrolyte becomes "stratified". You can have very strong solution at the top, and very weak at the bottom of the cell. With stratification, you can test a battery with a hydrometer and get readings that are quite a ways off. If you cannot equalize for some reason, you should let the battery sit for at least 24 hours and then use the hydrometer. AGM and gelled should be equalized 2-4 times a year at most - check the manufacturers recommendations, especially on gelled. Battery Aging As batteries age, their maintenance requirements change. This means longer charging time and/or higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of the charge). Usually older batteries need to be watered more often. And, their capacity decreases. Mini Factoids Nearly all batteries will not reach full capacity until cycled 10-30 times. A brand new battery will have a capacity of about 5-10% less than the rated capacity. Batteries should be watered after charging unless the plates are exposed, then add just enough water to cover the plates. After a full charge, the water level should be even in all cells and usually 1/4" to 1/2" below the bottom of the fill well in the cell (depends on battery size and type). In situations where multiple batteries are connected in series, parallel or series/parallel, replacement batteries should be the same size, type and manufacturer (if possible). Age and usage level should be the same as the companion batteries. Do not put a new battery in a pack which is more than 3 months old or has more than 75 cycles. Either replace with all new or use a good used battery. For long life batteries, such as the Surrette and Crown, you can have up to a one year age difference. The vent caps on flooded batteries should remain on the battery while charging. This prevents a lot of the water loss and splashing that may occur when they are bubbling. When you first buy a new set of flooded (wet) batteries, you should fully charge and equalize them, and then take a hydrometer reading for future reference. Since not all batteries have exactly the same acid strength, this will give you a baseline for future readings. When using a small solar panel to keep a float (maintenance) charge on a battery (without using a charge controller), choose a panel that will give a maximum output of about 1/300th to 1/1000th of the amp-hour capacity. For a pair of golf cart batteries, that would be about a 1 to 5 watt panel - the smaller panel if you get 5 or more hours of sun per day, the larger one for those long cloudy winter days in the Northeast. Lead-Acid batteries do NOT have a memory, and the rumor that they should be fully discharged to avoid this "memory" is totally false and will lead to early battery failure. Inactivity can be extremely harmful to a battery. It is a VERY poor idea to buy new batteries and "save" them for later. Either buy them when you need them, or keep them on a continual trickle charge. The best thing - if you buy them, use them. Only clean water should be used for cleaning the outside of batteries. Solvents or spray cleaners should not be used. More information - Manufacturers Websites US Battery Manufacturing Company - some good information and data.
Trojan Battery - no real technical info here, but all the specifications.
Exide - not much here but marketing stuff, but you can buy Exide T-shirts.
Oerlikan - some really tech info on batteries (Europe). SOLAR NAVIGATOR'S STORAGE BRIEF Solar Navigator needs sufficient storage capacity to even out the vagaries of natural supply, after the global weather system has had its say. Fortunately, BP has a number of monitoring stations around the world constantly measuring incoming radiation so we have a good idea what to expect. The battery banks of Solarnavigator must cater for the worst scenario and still keep something in reserve for a rainy day. Imagine: There has been no Sun for several days. To maintain steerage and conserve energy Solar Navigator has been cruising at 1/4 speed waiting for the weather to break. The emergency reserve is coming close and then unfavourable winds threaten to drive you close to an approaching land mass. This is what the reserve was intended for - to keep you out of trouble. Hence never use your emergency reserve, unless for an emergency situation.The size of the reserve depends on how cautious you want to be. Our backers and insurers will want to know that we are prepared for the worst and then some. Indeed, we will be. However, at the back of our mind is the weight penalty having too much insurance could impose. All design, is of course a compromise............................. "Every Setback, is a Setup for a Comeback" Let's turn our failure into fertilizer. To overcome the Gravity of Negativity, is our ***-given ability.
Antwoord met aanhaling 12-08-12, 13:15
Boodskappe 11	Wat ry jy? VW Syncro bus
Regte naam Charlton van Rooyen
Hi ek gebruik die D250s saam met die smartpass in die motorhomes wat ek bou. Ons sit gemiddeld 2 diepsiklus batterye in en 3 x 80 Watt sonpanele in, afhangende van die inverter se grote. Ek het gevind dat sonder die smartpass die altenator sukkel om die diepsiklus batterye vol te laai en ook omdat die D250s net tot 20 V werk hy nie die volle sonpanele se laai hanteer nie. Met die smartpass by help dit baie maar dit is nog nie die volmaakte antwoord nie. Ek is besig met ander opsies en sal laat weet as ek die beste gekry het!
Charlton van Rooyen
Antwoord met aanhaling 10-09-12, 18:42
Boodskappe 1,121	Wat ry jy? 2.5 Hilux 4x4 D4D
Dankie Charles, kan jy asb vir my verduidelik hie die 'smartpass' werk of wat dit doen? Ek het nog nooit daarvan gehoor nie?
PS Baie mooi toervoertuie wat julle verskaf!
Piet, Paul en Klaas volg Jan Rap en sy maats ..... Antwoord met aanhaling Vinnige navigasie
Merkers vir hierdie draad
batterylaaier, cteq, dubbelbattery
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