Dagboek: Week 5 – Klein Karoo (Episode 6) – Voetspore Safaris
Moçâmedes Desert Safari
Dagboek: Week 5
Voetspore in Suid Afrika
Die Voetsporespan is weer op reis – hierdie keer deur ons geliefde Suid-Afrika! Die week het as volg verloop:
Sondag 11 Augustus
Sondag op Matjiesfontein. ‘n Ideale rusdag.
Ek en Streicher het teruggekom van Kleinmond af. Die ander manne het sommer vroeg reeds gaan inboek by die Lord Milner. Matjiesfontein is so ryk aan geskiedenis, dit neem jou na ‘n ander wêreld deur sommer net in die gange van die hotel rond te drentel.
Laat middag gaan ons saam met Johnny, gids en algemene vermaaklikheidskunstenaar van Matjiesfontein op ‘n bustoer deur die dorp – volgens hom die kortste bustoer in die land. Hy vertel die geskiedenis van die dorpie. Ook van die spoke. Daarna is dit na die kroeg waar hy klavier speel. Later haal Giepie sy bekfluitjie uit en Sakkie agter die kroegtoonbank sy kitaar. Ons het toe sommer ‘n hele orkes bymekaar. Dis ‘n heel vermaaklike aand, een wat ons nie opneem as deel van ons reeks nie, maar een wat die manne goed doen.
Ontbyt is in die hotel. Dis die gewone – ‘n ontbyt buffet. Maar in die Lord Nelson voel dit net so ‘n bietjie anders. Die skilderye, die borsbeelde, die meubels en tapyte spreek van vervloë dae se welvaart. Dis uit ‘n ander era.
Matjiesfontein is geleë langs die spoorlyn wat van die Kaap die binneland inloop en is in 1883 deur James Logan gevestig. Die droë lug van die Groot Karoo is ideaal vir mense met long kwale. Vandag nog is die plekkie, met sy Victoriaanse sjarme, ‘n gewilde oornagplek, en luukse treine soos die Blou Trein en Rovos, doen gereeld hier aan.
Ons vertrek verby die reeks oudtydse motors wat voor die hotel geparkeer staan. Ons neem die pad na Laingsburg.
Die Laingsburg Vloed is een van die hartseer gebeure wat Suid Afrika in Januarie 1981 getref het. Dit het in die bo-lope van die Buffelsrivier gereën. ‘n Blits vloed het ontstaan. ‘n Muur van water van 6 meter hoog het die dorp getref en meegesleur. Totale verwoesting is gesaai. Meer as 100 mense is dood. Talle van hulle liggame is nooit gevind nie.
Ons ry deur die dorp en sien waar die vloedlyn was. Dis amper ondenkbaar.
Nou is dit rigting Bosch Luys Kloof. Dis ‘n pragtige roete tussen die berge van die Klein en Groot Karoo.
Net na die ingang tot die privaat natuurreservaat draai ons van die pad af en volg ‘n kronkel spoor wat genoem word The Road to Hell and Gone. Dis ‘n roete wat die mense van Gamkaskloof, ook bekend as Die Hel, gebruik het om met die buitewêreld kontak te maak.
Ons ry verby Wedersiens. Dis waar hulle gegroet het. Daarna tot aan die bopunt van Die Leer. Mens kry bloot ‘n uitsig op Gamkaskloof. Af met Die Leer is onmoontlik met ‘n voertuig.
Die middag kom ons aan by Bosch Luys Kloof. Eienaar Gerhard Rademeyer en bestuurder Bruce ontvang ons. Dis ‘n pragtige lodge in die Karoo.
Na ligte verversings neem Bruce ons op ‘n besigtigingsrit. Dis uiters droog en wild is skaars, maar die rit saam met Bruce is baie insiggewend soos hy ons vertel van die fauna en flora van die streek.
Die aand word ons by die lodge onthaal met voorgereg, hoofgereg en nagereg.
Die lodge by Bosch Luys Kloof maak voorsiening vir mense wat wil wegbreek. Wegkom van die stad se lawaai, van selfoon sein, die internet, TV en koerante, en dit nogal in absolute luuksheid.
Na ontbyt by Bosch Luys Kloof vertrek ons met die Bosch Luys Kloof Pas, gebou deur een van Thomas Bain se familielede, ‘n ene De Smit. Bain was eenvoudig te besig om ander passe in die res van die Kaap te bou. Maar ook die pas is indrukwekkend. Dit lyk soos een van Bain se passe.
Ons gaan met Seweweekspoort deur na die Klein Karoo. Die poort, soos Meiringspoort, sny deur die Swart Berge. Dis dalk selfs meer indrukwekkend as Meiringspoort.
Aan die ander kant van die poort ontmoet ons vir La Grange Volschenk en Izak van der Vyver. Hulle sou ons die res van die dag vergesel.
Eerste besoek – Amalienstein se kerk. In die kerk ontmoet ons vir James Jacobs, senior hoofman van die Attekwas stam. Hy vertel ons die geskiedenis van die sendingstasie.
Ook in die streek knel die droogte. Talle mense is werkloos. Mense soos pastoor Lionel Rose was genoodsaak om sopkombuise te begin.
Ons ry van Amalienstein verby Zoar, vernoem na Zoar aan die Rooi See waarvan in Genesis 14 vers 2 gepraat word. Die dorpie se kerk is al meer as 200 jaar oud.
Ons besoek die Hoeko vallei. Voor die droogte was dit die streek wat die meeste appelkose in die Suidelike halfrond verbou het. Vandag lyk dit maar sleg. Maar daar moet iets in die water wees. Hierdie streek het invloedryke Afrikaanse skrywers opgelewer, soos Abraham H de Vries, Roepman skrywer Jan van Tonder, koskenner Pieter Veldsman en natuurlik die skepper van Die Stem van Suid Afrika.
Op die plaas van Matthys van der Merwe sien ons die geboutjie waarin Kerneels Langenhoven skoolgegaan het. Aan die oorkant van die vallei, die huis waarin hy gebore is. Vandag is toevallig Langenhoven se geboortedag. Dit is baie eenvoudig, maar ‘n belangrike deel in Suid Afrika se geskiedenis. Dit moet beter in stand gehou word en op elke toeris se roete plan wees.
Na die besoek aan Hoeko reis ons na Ladismith – eers vir ‘n uitsig oor die dorp, en dan ‘n besoek aan die Otto Hager kerk, vandag Ladismith se museum met Hettie Weymar as kurator. Die geskiedenis van die streek, soos die storie van Stanley de Wit en sy dinamo, word vertel.
Ons gaan ook na Makadas. Vandag is dit ‘n padstal, maar tot voor die Laingsburg vloed was dit ‘n trein wat vrugte van Ladismith na die buitewêreld vervoer het. Middagete is skaap skenkels by Die Kanna Kombuis.
Ons besoek twee kaasfabrieke op die dorp – eers Ladismith Cheese en daarna Parmelat. Ook die wynkelder en brandewyn stokery. Oral word ons oorlaai met geskenke – produkte van die dorp.
Laat middag ry ons na Vyversrus – Johan van der Vyver se twee klip huisies langs ‘n dam. Dis ‘n heerlike kuier om die vuur saam met Johan en sy gesin.
Ons vertrek vanaf Vyversrus en ry deur die wildkamp. Die manne het ons genooi vir koffie en beskuit op ‘n koppie. Toe ons opdaag is dit ‘n reuse ontbyt. Tydens ons reis het ons nou al baie vriendelike mense teëgekom. Min so vriendelik soos die mense van Ladismith.
Ons vertrek met die R62, rigting Barrydale. Langs die pad, by Algerynskraal, staan ‘n bordjie – Welkom Voetspore. Ons draai in en word ‘n heerlike koppie koffie aangebied. Toe is dit verder, verby Ronnie’s Sex Shop, tot by Barrydale. Dis een van die Klein Karoo dorpies wat oor vakansietye floreer soos mense vlug uit die stad.
Van die Klein Karoo reis ons suid, na die Hessequa, met die Tradouwpas, nog een van Bain se roetes. Dis indrukwekkend.
By Suurbraak draai ons oos. Dis droog, ook in die streek, maar dis ‘n pragtige landelike gebied met canola landerye en baie melkbeeste.
Later die middag is dit weer oor die Swartberge met Gysmanshoek. Die pas se natuurskoon lê opgesluit in die ongelooflike plantegroei. Veral die proteas staan en blom.
Dis laat middag toe ons by Rooiberg Lodge, net anderkant Van Wyksdorp aankom. Die aand braai ons saam met die mense van Jobs4carbon.
‘n Heerlike ontbyt by Rooiberg Lodge, en ons vertrek saam met die mense van Jobs4Carbon. Ina Scholtz en Andre Britz, twee van die dryfvere agter die projek, vergesel ons.
Jobs4Carbon is ‘n NRO wat opheffingswerk doen onder die mense van Van Wyksdorp. Hulle plant spekbome. Die spekboom is bekend as die plant wat die meeste koolsuurgas uit die atmosfeer neem, en die meeste suurstof terugsit. Maar die spekboom is onder druk. Die plant skiet nie meer saad nie en kan slegs voortplant deur steggies. Oorbeweiding het ook daartoe gelei dat die spekboom al hoe minder word.
Jobs4carbon plant vandag duisende spekbome op die noordelike hange van die berge waar hulle voorheen gegroei het. Steggies word in die grond geplant. Groot gebiede waar daar voorheen oorbeweiding en ernstige erosie was, word nou herstel.
Die Jobs4Carbon spanne werk nege maande van die jaar op die projek. Die res van die tyd word hulle ingespan by die reuse olyf plaas van Mont Rouge. Dié benodig seisoenale arbeid tydens oestyd. Op die manier is daar bitter min werkloosheid in Van Wyksdorp.
Ons ry terug Riversdal toe. Andre Latsky, skoolhoof van Oakdale, het ons genooi om ‘n draai te maak by die landbouskool. Die seuns sing vir ons die skoollied. Daarna stel ek die Voetsporespan aan die skool voor. Norbert is by verre die gewildste spanlid. Hy kry sommer ‘n groot toejuiging. Daarna vertel ons vir hulle die belangrikheid van reis. Reis wat mens blootstel aan ander kulture, gelowe, mense, cuisine…
Na Oakdale is dit weer die binneland in, na Jakkalsvlei waar ons kuier saam met Jantjie Jonker, eienaar en wynmaker. Dis ‘n pragtige wynplaas, ‘n paar kilometer vanaf Herbertsdale.
Laat middag kom ons aan op Buysplaas, tuiste van die Buyse. Weer eens word ons hartlik ontvang met ‘n groep mense wat sing en dans. In die gemeenskap saaltjie vergader ons saam met Oom Attie Joseph, president van die Buysplaasbewoners vereniging. Oom Attie vertel dat die geskiedenis van Buysplaas nog nooit opgeteken is nie, totdat Antoinette le Roux ‘n doktorsgraad daaroor kom doen het.
Oom Attie vertel dat hulle almal afstam van Frederik Petrus de Buys, ‘n man wat twee seuns by sy bediende verwek het. Toe de Buys te sterwe kom het die twee seuns die grond geërf wat vandag bekend staan as Buysplaas.
Weer word roosterkoek bedien.
Vroeg aand kom ons aan by Kosie en Ryna Sauerman se kampplek, Gourits River Guest Farm, op die oewer van die Gouritsrivier. Henk Lourens het van Riversdal af gekom om saam te kuier. Hy en sy seun Kobus braai vark nek. Uitstekend.
Stefan is dou voor dag Buysdorp toe. Hy en Gideon het gaan kyk hoe die mense aalwyn tap. Dit is wat vir baie mense in die wêreld aan die lewe hou. Die aalwyne groei wild in die veld. Blare word afgesny en die sap van die bitter aalwyn word dan gelewer aan twee fabrieke in Albertinia waar ‘n wye reeks gesondheidsprodukte vervaardig word.
Ons is saam met Henk en Kosie af in die droë loop van die Gouritsrivier. Dis verstommend om te hoor dat jare gelede skepe van die oseaan tot by Kosie se plaas kon opvaar in die Gourits. Soos die kraai vlieg is dit meer as 20 kilometer.
Ons stop onder die drie brûe oor die Gourits. Die een is die treinbrug, die ander die ou motorkar brug (dit was ‘n enkel laan) en dan die nuwe motorkar brug. Henk wys vir ons hoe die Laingsburg vloed, wat hier verby gekom het, die massiewe kolomme geskuif het. Dis verstommend – die krag van water.
Ons groet vir Henk en Kosie en ry Albertinia toe. By een van die fabrieke koop ons van die gesondheidsprodukte. Nou het elke man ‘n roompie of kristalle of iets wat ons jonger en gesonder gaan maak!
Ons laaste bestemming vir die week is die Grootrug Duineroete by Vleesbaai. Ons word hartlik verwelkom deur Riekie en Chrisilda van Rensburg en gesin. Saam met hom gaan ry ons die duine van Vleesbaai, op Riekie se plaas. Van hulle kan nogal uitdagend wees, veral vir ‘n swaar gelaaide Cruiser.
Laat middag drink ons sundowners op die duin – wyn van Jakkalsvlei, kaas van Ladismith, olywe van Rooiberg…
Na sononder nooi die Van Rensburgs ons vir aandete. Vir slegs die tweede keer op ons reis eet ons vis. Oester, alikreukel en stokvis. Dit is ‘n wonderlike verandering van spyse.
Ons slaap die nag by Riekie-hulle se kampplek.
Saterdag 16 Augustus
Ons is terug Riversdal toe. Ons het ‘n afspraak by Henk Lourens se Riversdal Toyota. Sowat 300 mense kom groet die Voetspore-manne. Alu-Cab en 4×4 Mega World stal saam met ons uit.
Die middag ry ons Bonniedale toe om te gaan bly by Nico en Danette Hesterman. Dis ‘n heerlike naweek van ontspan wat wag. Nou kan ons wasgoed was, e-posse beantwoord, dagboek op datum kry… alles waarvoor daar in die week nie tyd is nie
Sunday at Matjiesfontein. The perfect day to relax.
Streicher and I have returned from Kleinmond. The rest of the men have already booked in at the Lord Milner. Matjiesfontein has such a copious history, a mere walk through the corridors of the hotel transfers you to a different world.
Late afternoon we are accompanied by Johnny, guide and entertainment artist of Matjiesfontein, on – according to him – the shortest bus tour in the country. He narrates not only the history of this small town, but also of its ghosts. He then plays the piano in the pub. Giepie later joins in with his mouthorgan and Sakkie, behind the counter, on his guitar. A complete band. A very entertaining evening, which is not recorded as part of our series, but enjoyed by our team members.
We have breakfast in the hotel. The usual – a buffet. It feels different in the Lord Nelson though. The paintings, busts, furniture and carpets disclose of affluent days gone by. From another era.
Matjiesfontein is located next to the railway that runs inlands from the Cape and was established by James Logan in 1883. This dry climate is ideal for respiratory sufferers. Till today, this small town with its Victorian charm is a popular overnight destination and luxurious trains like The Blue Train and Rovos regularly stop here.
We leave and pass the vintage cars parked in front of the hotel. We are on route to Laingsburg.
The Laingsburg Flood is one of the unfortunate occurrences that hit South Africa in 1981. It rained in the upper course of the Buffels river and a flood resulted. A water wall of 6 metres hit and dragged the town down. Total devastation. More than 100 people killed. Many bodies were never located.
We drive through town to look at the flood line. Almost inconceivable.
Now we head towards Bosch Luys Kloof. A beautiful route between the mountains of the Klein and Groot Karoo.
After entering the private game reserve, we turn off to follow a twisting trail which is called The Road to Hell and Gone. This route was used by the inhabitants of Gamkaskloof, also known as The Hell, to connect with the outside world. We pass Wedersiens. This was where the greeted. Then to the top of The Ladder where one can see Gamkaskloof. Inaccessible with a vehicle.
We arrive at Bosch Luys Kloof in the afternoon and are welcomed by the owner, Gerhard Rademeyer and manager, Bruce. A beautiful lodge in the Karoo.
After refreshments, Bruce take us on a sightseeing drive. It is extremely arid, and wildlife is scarce, but Bruce is very informative regarding the fauna and flora of this region.
That evening we are entertained at the lodge with starters, mains and dessert.
The lodge at Bosch Luys Kloof caters for people who wants to take a break from busy towns, cell phone coverage, TV and newspapers and still enjoy absolute luxury.
After breakfast at Bosch Luys Kloof lodge we travel via the Bosch Luys Kloof Pass which was built by one of the family members of Thomas Bain, a certain Smit. Bain was busy building other passes in the Cape at that time. The pass is most impressive and looks almost like other passes built by Bains.
We travel through Seweweekspoort to the Klein Karoo. This gateway, such as Meiringspoort, runs through the Swart mountains. Even more impressive than Meiringspoort.
At the other end of the gateway we meet up with La Grange Volschenk and Izak van der Vyver. They will accompany us for the remainder of the day.
First visit – Amalienstein’s church. Here we meet James Jacobs, chief leader of the Attekwas tribe. He relates the history of the mission station.
This region is also drought-stricken. Many folks are unemployed. People like pastor Lionel Rose was compelled to start soup kitchens.
We travel from Amalienstein past Zoar – named after Zoar at the Red Sea – as depicted in Genesis 14 verse 2. This town’s church is more than two centuries old.
We visit the Hoeko valley. Before the drought, this was the largest region in the Southern Hemisphere to cultivate apricots. Today it is a pitiful sight. Water is required. This region was also home to influential Afrikaans authors like Abraham H de Vries, Jan v Tonder – author of Roepman, food fundi Pieter Veldsman and C J Langenhoven, creator of Die Stem van Suid-Afrika.
Located on the farm of Matthys van der Merwe is the building where Kerneels Langenhoven attended school. Across the valley is the house where he was born. Accidentally today is his day of birth. The house is very simple but still a very important part of South African history. It should be better cared for and on every tourist’s list.
After Hoeko we travel to Ladismith – initially for a view of the town, but then to visit the Otto Hager church. It has been changed into a museum, with Hettie Weymar as its curator. The history of the town as well as the story of Stanley de Wit and his dynamo is narrated.
We also visit Makadas. Currently a road stall, but before the Laingsburg Flood it was an operational train transporting fruit from Ladismith to the rest of the country. Lunch is mutton stew at Die Kanna Kitchen.
We visit two cheese factories in town – first Ladismith Cheese and then Parmelat. We also go to the wine cellar and brandy distillery. We are overloaded with gifts – all local products.
Late afternoon we go to Vyversrus – Johan van der Vyver’s two stone houses by the dam. An enjoyable visit around the fire with Johan and his family.
We leave Vyversrus and drive through the game camp. The men have been invited to coffee and rusks on a hill. On our arrival we are surprised by a huge breakfast instead. We have met many endearing people on our journey, but none like the people of Ladismith.
We depart and take the R 62 on route to Barrydale. Along the way, at Algerynskraal we see a signboard – Welcome Voetspore. After stopping we are offered a delicious cup of coffee. Then pass Ronnie’s Sex Shop to Barrydale. This little Karoo town is a popular holiday destination for people who want to escape from bustling town life.
From the Klein Karoo we travel south towards Hessequa via the Tradouwpass – another of Bain’s routes. Most impressive.
At Suurbraak we turn east. This is also an arid region, but a beautiful rural area with canola fields and cattle.
Later in the afternoon we go via the Swart mountains to Gysmanshoek. The beauty of this pass is hidden in its vegetation. Especially the flowering proteas.
It is late afternoon when we arrive at the Rooiberg Lodge, on the other side of Van Wyksdorp. That evening we have a barbecue with people from Jobs4Carbon.
After a delicious breakfast at Rooiberg Lodge, we leave with two of the driving forces of the project Jobs4Carbon, Ina Scholtz and Andre Britz.
Jobs4Carbon is an NGO that runs an upliftment project for the people of Van Wyksdorp. They plant Spekbome. The Spekboom is known as the plant that extracts the largest amount of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and replaces it with oxygen. But the Spekboom is under pressure. Lately the plant does not go to seed and can only grow from cuttings. Overgrazing is also the cause of limited numbers.
Jobs4Carbon plants thousands of Spekbome on the northern slopes of the mountains where it was previously found. Cuttings are put into the ground and serious erosion and large overgrazed areas are now being restored.
The Jobs4Carbon teams operate nine months of the year on the project. The rest of the time they are employed on the olive farm at Mont Rouge. Seasonal labour is needed during harvest time. There is little unemployment in Van Wyksdorp.
We go back to Riversdal. Andre Latsky, principal of Oakdale has invited us to visit the agriculture school. The boys entertain us by singing a song. Norbert seems to be most popular. He is loudly applauded. We share with them the importance of our journey. A journey of different cultures, religions, people, cuisine …
After Oakdale we travel inlands, to Jakkalsvlei for a visit with Jantjie Jonker – owner and wine maker. It is a beautiful wine farm, only a few kilometres from Herbertsdale.
Late afternoon we arrive at Buysplaas. We once again receive a hearty welcome by a group of singing and dancing people. We get together with Uncle Attie Joseph, president of the Buysplaas resident association. He informs us that the history of Buysplaas has never been recorded until Antoinette le Roux has done a doctorate on this topic.
He tells us that they all descend from Frederik Petrus Buys, who fathered two sons from a common law wife. When he passed, his two sons inherited the land which is today known as Buysplaas.
We are once again treated on roosterkoek.
At sunset we arrive at the Gourits River Guest Farm of Kosie and Ryna Sauerman, located on the banks of the Gourits river. Henk Lourens joined as from Riversdal. He and his son prepare pork neck on the barbecue. Excellent.
Stefan and Gideon take an early trip to Buysdorp. They want to see how aloe sap is drawn. This process provides sustainable living for many people. The aloe grows naturally. The leaves are cut to obtain the sap which are supplied to two factories in Albertinia to manufacture a wide range of cosmetic products.
Henk and Kosie take us to the dry riverbed of the Gourits river. We are rendered speechless to learn that ships used to sail up the Gourits river to Kosie’s farm. A 20 kilometres distance.
We stop at three bridges crossing the Gourits. A train bridge, a single lane automobile bridge and new the new motorway bridge. Henk pointed out how the massive columns were moved by the Laingsburg flood. The force of water staggering.
We say goodbye to Henk and Kosie and leave for Albertinia. We purchase cosmetic products at one of the factories. Each of us now has some lotion or crystals for a more youthful appearance
This week’s destination for is the Grootrug Dune route at Vlees Bay. We receive a hearty welcome from Riekie and Chrisilda van Rensburg and their family. He takes us dune driving on the dunes of Vlees Bay on Riekie’s farm. Some very challenging, especially with a heavy loaded Cruiser.
Late afternoon we enjoy a sundowner on the dune – Jakkalsvlei wine, Ladismith cheese and olives from the Rooiberg.
After sunset we join the Van Rensburg’s and for only the second time on our trip we are served fish for dinner. Oysters, alikreukel and hake. A wonderful change of menu.
We overnight at Riekie’s camping site.
We return to Riversdal for our appointment with Henk Lourens from Riversdal Toyota. A group of more than 300 people have come to meet the Voetspore team. Alu-Cab and 4×4 Mega World is part of the exhibition.
That afternoon we leave for Bonniedale for our stay at Nico and Danette Hesterman. A lovely relaxing weekend awaits us. Time to do washing, update correspondence, and diaries … to catch up on everything outstanding due to our busy weekly schedules.
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Dagboek: Week 4 – Tankwa Karoo (Episode 5) Dagboek: Week 6 – Baviaans (Episode 7)