Dagboek: Week 6 - Baviaans (Episode 7) | Voetspore RSA
Dit was ‘n baie goeie dag by Bonniedale. Geen internet, geen selfoon – uiteindelik kry mens iets uitgerig! Gideon werk aan die foto’s, ek raak op datum met die dagboek en navorsing, Simon en Norbert sorg dat alles in hulle voertuig weer op die regte plek gepak word, en Stefan sorg dat die bestuur van die video materiaal op die harde skywe reg is. Dis net die wasgoed…
Ons het ongeveer een week se wasgoed, plus ‘n paar ekstras. As ons nie elke week wasgoed was of laat was nie, dan raak dit ‘n probleem.
Vandag is dit sommer ‘n hele spannetjie saam met die Voetsporespan. CapeNature se mense sluit by ons aan. Annelise Schutte Vlok, Jan Makampies, Koos Kobra en Richard James. Ook Nico Hesterman, die man met die plaas aan die voet van die kloof.
Ons gaan die Attekwaspas in. Dit is van tyd tot tyd ‘n uitdagende roete. Veral ons met ons swaar voertuie.
Die plantegroei in die streek is uitsonderlik. Mens wonder hoeveel van die ossewaens wat die 18e en 19e eeu hier verby is, het besef deur watse besonderse blommeprag hulle reis.
Nico vertel ons van die aktiwiteite op die pas. Dit was die N1 noord, tot die Robertson en Montagu pas gebou is. By die tolhuis is daar rekord gehou. Meer as 4 000 ossewaens is die pas uit. Dis ongeveer 13 per dag.
Annelise vertel van die fynbos, en hoe dit nodig is dat daar van tyd tot tyd ‘n brand deurkom om sade te laat ontkiem. Deesdae is die brande net te veel. Die plante kry nie kans om te herstel nie. Ons is ook verstom oor Koos se kennis. Hy is reeds meer as 30 jaar werksaam in die streek, en ken elke plantjie se gewone en botaniese naam.
Ons hou stil by die ongemerkte graf van Bloubaard Swanepoel. Hy is ‘n man wat ‘n skrikbewind in die wêreld gevoer het in die negentiende eeu. Na talle moorde is hy ter dood veroordeel. Dit was die laaste openbare teregstelling in die suid Kaap, en het gebeur op 28 April 1856 in George.
Daar is ook ‘n blokhuis wat die Engelse tydens die Anglo Boere-oorlog gebou het. Die blokhuis is egter verkeerd geplaas, en het nooit aksie gesien nie.
Maar dit was eintlik ‘n dag van plant en blommeprag, soos Annelise en Koos ons deur die wêreld Erfenisgebied neem. Jan vertel van die belang van die streek, en hoe CapeNature werk om dit te bewaar.
Dit was ‘n wonderlike dag. Ons hoop dat die Attekwaspas, wat tans nie oop is vir die publiek nie, eersdaags weer oopgestel sal word. Meer mense kan ervaar wat ons gesien het.
Die aand oornag ons op Louvain, die gasteplaas van die Saag Jonker Groep. Ons word onthaal deur die Jonkers met die heerlikste volstruis filette. Die huisie waar ons bly is pragtig, met ‘n reuse bloekom tafel en kaggelvuur vir die koue.
Vroegoggend drink ons koffie en eet vars gebakte brood by Fiela se Huis op die Louvain gasteplaas.
Morne Jonker gaan wys ons die pragtige, eenvoudige kerk op die plaas. Die kerk behoort aan die gemeenskap, maar word deur die gasteplaas gebruik as trou venue. Dis uitstekende samewerking.
Ons vertrek vanaf Louvain en ry uit met die Voortrekkerpas oor die Outenikwa berge. Vanaf die kruin is daar ‘n uitstekende uitsig – noord na die Karoo, suid na Knysna. Dis asemrowend.
Die pad raak al hoe meer uitdagend. Dis deurentyd op die rant van die afgrond. Ons gaan voetjie vir voetjie na onder. Die Voortrekkers het die plek Duiwelskop genoem.
Ons reis die bosbou gebied binne. Die onlangse brande het alles in puin gelê. Dis hartseer.
Ons kom aan by die Sewe Passe Roete wat George verbind met Knysna. Voor die N2 in die 1950’s oor Swartvlei gebou is, was die die roete. Dis nie ernstige passe nie. Bloot plekke waar die riviertjies wat afvloei na die see gekruis moet word. Dis ‘n pragtige roete wat met ‘n gewone sedan voertuig gery kan word.
By Knysna draai ons die binneland in. Ons ry met die Prins Alfred pas, nog een van die projekte van Thomas Bain. Sy pa, Andrew Geddes Bain, het vroeër gesê dit sal te duur wees om die pas te bou. In die 1860’s het Bain Jnr die pas gebou, deur die Knysna woude, tot by De Vlugt. Hier het Bain vir ‘n tyd lank gewoon.
Laat middag kom ons aan by die Pietersrivier Natuurreservaat van Katot Meyer. Katot gaan wys ons die borsbeeld van Burchell wat hy in die veld maak staan het, in erkenning vir wat die botanis vir Suid Afrika se fauna en flora beteken het. Katot verduidelik ook aan ons sy lewensfilosofie – elkeen kan ‘n verskil maak. Katot is ‘n toegewyde natuurbewaarder.
Ons vertrek vanaf Katot se natuurreservaat en stop by De Vlugt vir koffie en wortelkoek. Ons hoor die hartseer storie van Bain se dogtertjie wat deur ‘n kalkoen van die stoep af geskop is, en gesterf het.
Met Bain se pas ry ons noord, na Avontuur. Dis is die mooi, uitdagende deel van die pas. Convicts Grave getuig van die manne wat die pas gebou het. So ook Tiekielief, wat eintlik beteken het Ticket of Leave – as jy die pas tot daar gebou het, was jy ‘n vry man.
Ons reis na Avontuur ‘n dorpie in die Langkloof, bekend vir sy uitstekende appels, en die feit dat Daleen Mathee se Fiela se Kind, net hier naby afgespeel het. Op die dorp ontmoet ons Jimmy Zondach. Hy en sy familie boer reeds geslagte lank, sedert 1756, hier in die Langkloof.
Jimmy is ‘n amateur historikus. Hy versamel kennis, en ook ou goedere. Daarvoor het hy sy eie museum.
Maar dan gaan wys Jimmy vir ons die trots van Avontuur – die uitsig vanaf Zondach’s berg. Maar om daar te kom is nie eenvoudig nie. Van tyd tot tyd moet daar aan die voertuie gehang word om te verhoed dat hulle omval. Maar van bo sien ons die Kamanassieberge, die poort na die Groot Karoo, 360 grade om tot na die kus. Dis is uitsonderlik.
Nou neem Jimmy ons op ‘n roete wat die manne wat al die “Karoo to Coast” bergfiets wedren gery het, goed ken. Die Wapad. Hierdie is ook ‘n bergpas, en die enigste een wat na padbouer Thomas Bain vernoem is. Ons ry van Avontuur na Uniondale met die Bainpas.
Hierdie deel van die wêreld het ook tydens die Anglo Boereoorlog aksie gesien. Hier was die laaste skermutseling waarby Kommandant Gideon Scheepers, die Kaapse rebel, by betrokke was, voor hy gevange geneem is en op 18 Januarie 1902 in Graaf Reinet voor ‘n vuurpeleton tereg gestel is. Hy was maar 23 jaar oud.
Na middagete in Uniondale reis ons na die Baviaans. Die ingang na die kloof is dramaties. Massiewe rotswande. Skielik weet jy – hierdie is ‘n besonderse plek.
Vroeg middag arriveer ons by Makkedaat. Dis die plek waar Boetie en Henriëtte Terblanche boer, maar ook war hulle ‘n paar grotte, sal mens eerder se spelonke, ingerig het vir verblyf. Die voorkant van oorhang kranse is toegemaak, toilet en stort geriewe word verskaf, en jy het ‘n huis.
Henriëtte maak vir ons koedoe pastei vir aandete. Dit is uitstekend.
Ons vertrek vroegoggend vanaf die grot by Makkedaat. Ons groet Boetie en Henriëtte en ry oos.
Op pad na die Baviaanskloof Natuurreservaat ontmoet ons Noel Isaacks, ‘n boorling van die Baviaans, langs die pad. Hy is ons gids vir die volgende paar dae.
Groot hartseer het die Baviaans getref op die 5e Mei 1916. ‘n Blits vloed het in die kloof afgekom en huise meegesleur. Van die Campbell gesin is vier dood – pa, ma en twee dogters. Die verhaal word in die geskiedkundige roman, Die Wildedruif Val, vertel deur nog ‘n boorling van die streek, PH Nortje.
Ons stop by die gedenkteken wat opgerig is.
Van die tiental skole wat daar in die middel van die vorige eeu in die Baviaans was, is net twee oor. Ons besoek die skool by Zaaimanshoek. Die skoolhoof, Mnr. Piet Booysen, het Norbert genooi om vir die kinders te kom leer Nama praat. Dis ‘n entoesiastiese gehoor.
Ons arriveer by Geelhoutbos, ‘n plek binne die park waar daar akkommodasie in ‘n chalet beskikbaar is. Parkhoof Lelethu Swati en haar span verwelkom ons.
Daarna gaan stap ons saam met Noel. Hy vertel ons van die bobbejane. Ook van Chris Barnard en die hart oorplantingspan wat Baviaanse se bobbejane gebruik het om hartoorplantings te eksperimenteer. Daar was selfs ‘n bobbejaan leerlooiery waar velle gelooi is om baadjies en skoene te maak. Natuurlik is dit vandag anders…
Ons stap op met die stroompie tot waar ‘n keerwal gebou is tot by die keerwal met ‘n visleer. Dit stel visse in staat om stroomop, oor ‘n keerwal te swem.
Laat middag ry ons ‘n draai deur die Baviaans en sien sommer heelwat wild – koedoes, bosbokke, apies, bobbejane….
Ons ry tot by Keerom. Die bus het Maandae en Donderdae van Willowmore geloop tot by Keerom, en die volgende dag terug gery. Dit was dan die laaste van die 24 bergpasse wat Thomas Bain in Suid Afrika gebou het. Dit was ook die langste – van Willowmore tot hier by Keerom, 116 km. Die werk is voltooi in 1890.
Op die bergpas, net bo Keerom, drink ons ‘n sonsaksopie, eet olywe, kaas en beskuitjies. Dit was dusver ‘n uitstekende week van bergpasse.
Baviaanskloof is in 2004 as Wêreld Erfenis gebied verklaar. Die streek is bekend vir sy natuurskoon en biodiversiteit. Natuurlik, soos mens van die naam van die plek kan aflei, is die bobbejane koning in die gebied. Die dag sien ons sommer baie.
Maar ons sien weer apies, koedoes, bosbokke, sebras… baie van hulle smul aan die spekbome wat oorvloedig groei in die plek.
By Smitskraal maak ons ‘n laat ontbyt saam met Noel en sy kollega Sambok.
Verder, op teen die Holgatpas, stop ons om te kyk na die rotstekeninge. Die Baviaans is bekend vir sy uitstekende rotskuns.
Later sien ons ook ‘n redelike trop Kaapse buffels. Hulle was endemies tot die gebied, het uitgesterf, en is weer terug gebring.
Bergplaas is een van die plekke in die Baviaans waar daar voorheen aktief geboer is. Die woonhuis is omskep in behuising vir die park, en mense sien nog die massiewe klipkrale.
Die laaste man wat hier geboer het, was Winston le Roux. Afgesien van Bergplaas het hy ook ‘n ander plaas, Enkeldoorn, aan die oorkant van die kloof gehad. Om goedere van Enkeldoorn na Bergplaas te bring, het drie en ‘n half uur, padlangs geduur. Toe bou hy in 1967 ‘n kabelspoor oor die Waterpoort. Die gaping is 410 meter. Die diepte 387 meter. Nou kan ‘n volle 5 ton op ‘n slag binne 11 minute van die een plaas na die ander vervoer word.
Die bergpas in die ooste van Baviaanskloof is gebou deur die boer JH Combrinck. Die roete het reeds bestaan toe Thomas Bain sy pad in die weste in 1890 voltooi het.
Net buite die park se oostelike hek is ‘n inligting sentrum. Dis ideaal vir mense op pad na die reservaat, of as jy reeds daar was, om te sien wat jy dalk gemis het.
Die aand is Streicher op kook diens. Ons word bederf met wildsvleis in die vlamme – ŉ resep wat hy al vervolmaak het. Nie sleg nie.
Ons vertrek uit die Baviaans en ry na Cintsa. Onderweg eet ons ontbyt by Patensie, ry verby Port Elizabeth en Oos Londen, en kom laat middag aan by Buccaneers Backpackers. Dis is een van die gewildste verblyfplekke in die deel van die land. Uitstekend vir ons om te kom asemskep.
It was an excellent day at Bonniedale. No cell phone or internet coverage – at last we can catch up! Gideon manages his photographs, I do research and get the weekly diary updated, Simon and Norbert arrange the contents of the vehicles and Stefan organises the video footage on the hard drives. But, the laundry …
We have one week’s dirty laundry plus a few extras. If the washing is not done at least once a week, it piles up.
Today, the Voetspore team has grown in numbers. The members of CapeNature have joined us. Annelise Schutte Vlok, Jan Makampies, Koos Kobra and Richard James. Also, the owner of the farm at the foot of the ravine, Nico Hesterman.
We enter the Attekwas Pass. At times a challenging route. Especially for the heavy loaded vehicles.
The vegetation in this region is extraordinarily. One wonders whether the people who passed this area in the 18th and 19th century in ox wagons, realised the uniqueness thereof.
Nico tells us that before the Robertson and Montagu passes were built, this used to be the N1 north. Activity was recorded at the tollhouse. More than 4 000 ox wagons used this pass. Approximately 13 per day.
Annelise informs us of the different fynbos, and how it requires regular burning for its germination. Lately there has been too frequent fires. This can lead to loss of species. We are amazed by the expertise Koos has on the subject. He has worked in this area for 30 years and can name all these plants by its common and botanical names.
We stop at the unmarked grave of Bloubaard Swanepoel. He led a reign of terror during the 19th century. After slaying several people, he was executed to death. This was the last public execution in the southern Cape and happened on 28 April 1856 in George.
The English built a blockhouse during the Anglo Boer War but due to its wrong placement it was never used.
This was a day of plant and floral wealth as we were guided through this World Heritage Site by Annelise and Koos. Jan speaks of the importance of this region and the effort CapeNature makes to preserve it.
It was a fantastic day. We truly hope that the Attekwas Pass, which is currently inaccessible, will soon be open to the public. More should experience the same.
That evening we stay at Louvain, guest farm of Saag Jonker Group. We are entertained by the Jonkers with ostrich fillet. Our accommodation is beautiful with a huge blue gum table and fireplaces against the cold.
We get an early start at Fiela’s House, on the Louvain guest farm, with coffee and freshly baked bread.
Morne Jonker shows us the beautiful, plain church on the farm. The church is the property of the community, but the guest farm manages it as a wedding venue as well. Excellent collaboration.
We leave Louvain and travel via the Voortrekker Pass over the Outeniqua mountains. An excellent view from the top – the Karoo on the left and Knysna to the south. Astounding.
The route becomes more challenging. Constantly on the edge of the cliff. We travel at a snail’s pace. The Voortrekkers named this place Devil’s head.
We venture into forestry area. Recent fires have caused devastation. A sad affair.
We arrive at the Seven Pass Route that intersects George with Knysna. This was the common route before the N2 was built in the 1950’s via Swartvlei. Not very challenging passes. Merely small river crossings of water running to the sea. It is a beautiful route and can easily be driven with a sedan.
At Knysna we turn inlands. We travel with the Prince Alfred Pass, another Thomas Bain project. His father, Andres Geddes Bain said it would be too expensive to build this pass. Bain Jnr built it in the 1860’s through the Knysna forest to De Vlugt. Bain resided here for some time.
Late afternoon we arrive at Pieters River nature reserve, owned by Katot Meyer. He shows us a bust of Burchell that he erected in the veld in acknowledgement of this South African botanist’s contribution to fauna and flora. Katot confirms his life philosophy – each person can make a difference. He is a devoted nature conservator.
We leave Katot’s nature reserve and make a stop at De Vlugt for coffee and carrot cake. We hear the sad story of how Bain’s daughter was killed when a turkey kicked her off a stoep. We travel north with Bain’s pass to Avontuur. This is the beautiful, challenging part of the pass. Convicts Grave testifies of the men that built the pass. As well as Tiekielief, which comes from Ticket of Leave. You were only free once the pass was completed.
We travel to Avontuur, a small town in the Lang Kloof, known for its excellent apples and the fact that it is close to the location where the drama Fiela’s Child, written by Daleen Mathee, took place. In town we meet up with Jimmy Zondagh. He and his family has been farming here in Lang Kloof for many generations since 1756.
Jimmy is an amateur historian and collector of information and antiques. He has his own museum.
Then Jimmy shows us the pride of Avontuur – a viewpoint from Zondagh’s mountain. Not easily accessible. We had to hang onto the vehicles from time to time to prevent capsizing. From the top one gets a 360-degree view of the Kamanassie mountains, the gateway to the Great Karoo. Exceptional.
Next Jimmy takes us on the route that the participants of the “Karoo to Coast” mountain bike competition are very familiar with. The Wapad. This is also a pass, the only one named after roadbuilder Thomas Bain. From Avontuur we travel to Uniondale via the Bain Pass.
This area is known for lots of activity during the Anglo Boer War. It is here that the last skirmish took place before the Cape rebel, Commander Gideon Scheepers was captured, and executed by a fire-squad on 18 January 1902 in Graaf Reinet. He was a mere 23 years old.
After lunch we go to Baviaans. The entrance to this ravine is impressive. Massive rock-faces. Suddenly the realisation – this is a special place.
Early afternoon we arrive at Makkedaat. Not only is this the location where Boetie and Henriëtte farm, but where they have converted a few caves, or rather caverns, into accommodation. The overhanging entrances have been covered and ablution facilities added. A complete house.
Henriëtte prepares kudu pie for supper. Excellent.
We leave the cave at Makkedaat early the next morning. We say our goodbyes to Boetie and Henriëtte and travel east.
On our way to Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve we meet Noel Isaacks, a local of Baviaans. He will be our guide for the next few days.
Baviaans was struck by tragedy on 5 May 1916 when a flash flood came down the ravine and dragged many houses along. The Campbell family of four – a father, mother and two daughters died. This event is captured in a historical romance, Die Wildedruif Val, written by yet another local, P H Nortje.
We stop to look at the memorial.
Only two of the ten-odd schools in Baviaans, from the middle of the previous century remained. We visit the school at Zaaimanshoek. The principal, Mr Piet Booysen has invited Norbert to teach the children the Nama language. An enthusiastic audience.
We arrive at Geelhoutbos, chalet accommodation inside the park. Head of the park Lelethu Swati, and her team welcome us.
Afterwards we take a stroll with Noel. He tells us about the baboons. Also, about Chris Barnard and his heart transplant team who experimented with Baviaans baboons. There was even a baboon tannery where hides were tanned to manufacture jackets and shoes. Today it is a different story …
We walk upstream to where a weir and fish ladder was erected. It enables the fish to swim upstream and cross the weir.
Late afternoon we drive through Baviaans and spot plenty game – kudu, bush buck, monkeys, baboons …
We travel to Keerom. The bus came here from Willowmore on Mondays and Thursdays, to return the next day. So, this then is the last of the 24 mountain passes that Thomas Bain built in South Africa. It is also the longest – 116 km from Willowmore to Keerom. The project was completed in 1890.
On the mountain pass just outside Keerom we enjoy a sundowner, olives, cheese and crackers. This was an excellent mountain pass week.
In 2004 Baviaanskloof was declared a World Heritage Site. This region is known for the scenery and biodiversity. And as the name states, baboons are king of the beasts in this area. We see many.
We also spot monkeys, kudu, bush buck, zebra … most of them grazing on Spekbome which grow in abundance here.
At Smuts kraal we enjoy a late breakfast with Noel and his colleague Sambok.
Further on, at Holgat Pass we look at rock engravings, Baviaans is well known for exceptional rock art.
We later spot a rather large herd of Cape buffalo. This species was endemic to this region, got extinct and once again re-established.
Berg Farm is one of the locations in Baviaans where active farming took place. The farmhouse was converted to park accommodation, and one can still observe the massive rock pens.
The last person to farm here was Winston le Roux. He was the owner of Berg Farm as well as another farm, Enkeldoorn, across the ravine. It took three and a half hours by road to transport goods from Enkeldoorn to Berg Farm. He subsequently built a cable car in 1967 across the Waterpoort. A space of 410 metres. Depth of 387 metres. A five-ton load can now be transported from one farm to the other within 11 minutes.
The mountain pass to the east of Baviaanskloof was built by a farmer, J H Combrinck. This route was already in existence when Thomas Bain completed his road to the west in 1890.
Outside the east gate of the park is an information centre. Ideal for visitors on their way to the reserve, or even for departing visitors to check what they have failed to see.
Streicher is on cooking duty that evening. We are treated on flame grilled venison – a recipe he has perfected. Not too bad.
We leave Baviaans for Cintsa. Along the way we have breakfast at Patensie, passed Port Elizabeth and East Londen and arrive at Buccaneers Backpackers late afternoon. One of the most popular accommodation in this part of the country. Excellent place for us to take a breather.
Dagboek: Week 5 – Klein Karoo (Episode 6) Dagboek: Week 7 – Wildekus (Episode 8)