Dagboek: Week 3 - Namakwaland (Episode 4) | Voetspore RSA
‘n Dag van wasgoed was en administrasie op datum kry. Min plekke is beter om dit te doen as by The Beach House op Port Nolloth. Al die geriewe is beskikbaar – dis nou wasmasjiene, tuimeldroërs en wifi. Dis wat die Voetsporemanne nodig het op ‘n af dag.
Leon Human, ‘n man wat instaan met kamerawerk en ook vir Nicolette Nolte help met die redigering van ons reeks (en daarom deel is van die uitgebreide Voetsporespan) het verjaar en 30 geword. Dit het gevra vir ‘n “lang lunch” by Vespetti, die beste eetplek op Port Nolloth. Bestel die “famous calamari parcel”. Geen wonder dis “famous” nie.
Daarna was dit terug by die Beach House vir bietjie Grand Prix kyk, rondlê en niks doen, dingetjies agtermekaar kry vir die week wat voorlê.
Vroegoggend was dit toe van die mis by Port Nolloth. Die rusdag by The Beach House was uitstekend. Nou moet ons verder, Namakwaland in.
Ons het die binneland in gereis na Steinkopf. Net noord van die dorp kry ons vir Dudley Wessels. Hy is die res van die week die man wat ons wys hoe lyk dié pragtige deel van ons land.
Dudley het vir ons eerste stop ‘n plaaslike gids saamgebring. Haar naam is Letitia Louw. Letitia het tot onlangs die Kookfontein gastehuis buite Steinkopf bedryf. Deesdae is sy by die Hollywood gastehuis in die dorp. Maar die rede hoekom ons Letitia ontmoet, is omdat sy die storie van Kinderlê ken.
Kinderlê is ‘n onbekende deel van ons land se geskiedenis. Dis die hartseer verhaal toe ‘n dertigtal Nama kinders deur twee Boesmans ontvoer is, en toe vermoor is deur hulle koppe te verbrysel teen die graniet rotse van Namakwaland. ‘n Wrede storie, maar ‘n storie waarvan ons moet kennis neem. Ook die versoening wat in 2003 gekom het. Letitia is die persoon wat die storie kan vertel.
Ons is deur Steinkopf. Dit het ‘n tydjie geduur, want toe ons diesel tap, kom die hele dorp om te groet.
Ons het gereis in die rigting van Nababeep. Langs die pad kry ons weer ‘n klompie skaapwagters met hulle vee. Die manne kry swaar in die droogte jare, maar dit lyk of die onlangse reëns uitkoms bied.
Volgende stop – Nigramoep. Nigramoep is ‘n gasteplaas waar Marius, Johanna, André en Suzette ons ontvang. ‘n Plaashuis, skooltjie en ander geboue is ontwikkel tot ‘n gasteplaas. Hier ontspan mens ten volle, want absoluut niks jaag jou nie.
Nigramoep was voorheen ‘n kopermyn. Toe die koperprys daal in die eerste helfte van die eeu, het ook die myn in 2003 gesluit.
Ons reis verder, verby die indrukwekkende Skaapriviervallei. Later na Nababeep –‘n dorp wat stadig maar seker dood gaan sedert die oond van die kopersmelter afgeskakel is.
Laat middag kom ons aan by Naries, seker die spoggerigste gastehuis in Namakwaland. Ek en Streicher maak ons tuis in een van die riet hutte tussen die graniet rotse. Dis in ‘n ander klas. Vanaf die gemsbok lapa sien ons die son ondergaan soos ‘n rooi bal. Aletta, Dudley se vrou, sluit ook by ons aan. Dis ‘n heerlike kuier met uitstekende kos. Gemsbok filet, skilpadjies, roosterkoeke en vir ‘n verandering, slaai.
Toe ons wakker word, reën dit. Dis nou een ding waaroor die mense van Namakwaland nooit kla nie.
Ons nuttig ‘n rykmansontbyt by die spoggerige lodge en ry toe met die Spektakelpas af na Buffelsrivier. In die dorpie is daar groot opgewondenheid om die Voetsporemanne te verwelkom. Die hele skool van ‘n paar honderd leerlinge kom groet.
Verder suid is dit oor die vlaktes van Namakwaland. In ’n stadium draai ons van die groot pad af, en Dudley wys vir ons die woud van kameeldorings. Dis baie vreemd in dié wêreld, en dis ook net op die een plek waar dit voorkom.
Ons ry op met die Wildeperdehoek pas wat oorloop na die Messelpadpas. Die pas is in 1871 gebou om kopererts vir verskeping na Groot-Brittanje na die hawe by Hondeklipbaai te vervoer. Die ingenieur van die indrukwekkende pas, wat vandag nog net so lyk soos toe dit 150 jaar gelede gebou was, is die skot, Patrick Fletcher. Hy het die pas gebou met die hulp van gevangenes wat gevonnis is tot harde arbeid, en vir hulle moes daar natuurlik ‘n tronk gebou word. Vandag staan nog net die mure van die geskiedkundige tronk.
In Namakwaland is daar baie legendes en stories. Een handel oor waar die Wildeperdehoekpas sy naam vandaan gekry het. Die pad bouer wat ook na die gevangenes moes kyk, was gek oor perde. Hy het by sy huis langs die tronk gewoon. Hy het vir hom ‘n plaaslike dame as hou-vrou gekry. Toe kom daar nuus dat sy vrou van Engeland af op pad is om te kuier. Hy weet nie hoe om die situasie te hanteer nie, en op ‘n donkermaan nag laat hy al die perde uit die stalle vry, steek die tronk aan die brand, en om twaalf uur die nag pleeg hy selfmoord.
Dit word vertel dat vandag nog, op ŉ donkermaan nag, jy die gille van die gevangenes kan hoor soos hulle dood brand in die tronk. Om twaalf uur is daar ‘n enkele geweerskoot, en dan is dit stil.
Wat oor gebly het is die perde wat wild in die wêreld rondgehardloop het.
Saam met Dudley is ons na Kookfontein. By die kampplek word ons ontvang deur die park hoof van die Namakwa Nasionale Park, Angela Isaks, en haar span. Dis mense wat wonderlike werk doen in die wêreld. Dis een van Suid Afrika se weggesteekte juwele.
Weer eens word ons onthaal met streekskos. Die dames van Soebatsfontein kook vir ons skaap afval, vaal vleis, roosterkoeke, stamp, koring en pampoen – alles in gietysterpotte op die vuur in die kookskerm.
Laat aand vertel Dirk van Schalkwyk vir ons ‘n paar Namakwalandse stories. Dis die mooiste Afrikaans. Dis aangrypend net om te sit en luister.
By Kookfontein gaan kyk ons eers na die fontein. Elke nou en dan kom daar ‘n lugborreltjie van diep onder uit die fontein. Dis hoekom die mense die plek gedoop het Kookfontein.
Ons gaan maak ‘n draai by Soebatsfontein. Dirk is weer daar. Hy vertel vir ons die wrede verhaal van hoe Soebatsfontein sy naam gekry het. ‘n Boer wat die fontein vir homself wou hê, maar toe deur die Boesmans lewendig afgeslag is terwyl hy soebat vir sy lewe. Nog ‘n wrede, aangrypende verhaal van die streek.
Ons reis na Skilpad – die hoofkantoor van die Namakwa Nasionale Park. Onderweg sien ons al hoe meer en meer blommetjies. Dit beloof om ‘n goeie blommejaar te wees. Ons sien ook hier het die park ernstige werk doen om gronderosie te bekamp. Erosie, veroorsaak deur oorbeweiding.
Die Namakwa Nasionale Park word saamgeflans uit ‘n aantal plase wat opgekoop word. Die lyndrade word verwyder. So ook die vee. Wild is stadig maar seker besig om terug te keer.
By die Dak van Namakwa maak ons middagete en vertrek na Kammieskroon.
Ons ry deur Kammieskroon met sy pragtige kerk, dieper, oos, Namakwaland binne. Die streek moet nie net in die blomtyd besoekers kry nie. Die dramatiese graniet koppies vra vir heel jaar toerisme.
Laat middag kom ons aan by Leliefontein. Net buite die dorp wag ‘n paar kinders om ons te verwelkom. Soos ons die dorp inry word hulle net meer en meer. Ek voel naderhand soos die Pied Piper.
Ons gaan tuis by Vera se Kookskerm. Byna die hele dorp kom groet. Neem foto’s saam met die manne. Ook van die voertuie.
Vroegaand braai ons hoender in die kookskerm. Alles en almal stink na rook, maar dis die enigste plek waar dit werklik warm is. Ons gaan slaap in die Nama matjieshutte. Vera verseker ons dis veel warmer as in die kamers of as in ons tente. Miskien warmer, maar steeds bitterlik koud.
Die oggend toe ons opstaan lê die wêreld wit geryp. Bitterlik koud. Die koffie gaan baie goed af.
Voor ons vertrek gaan kyk ons eers waar Leliefontein sy naam vandaan gekry het. Lelies by ‘n fontein – dis eenvoudig.
Ons gaan ook in die Metodiste kerk in. Teen die muur is ‘n plaat met die name van 35 Leliefonteiners. 35 mans wat deur Manie Maritz doodgeskiet is. Sommige sê vermoor is. Dit het gebeur tydens die Anglo Boere-oorlog. Daarna word verwys as die Slagting van Leliefontein.
Twee dames, Shirley Links en Katy Beukes, vertel vir ons die droewige verhaal soos deur hulle ouers aan hulle vertel. Ek lees ook in Denys Reitz se Commando van die effek wat die slagting gehad het op Genl. Smuts. Maar dis nog ‘n storie wat in die vergetelheid vergaan.
Ons reis na Garies. Langs die pad sien ons Nico Louw, vriend van Gideon, se plaas met sy windpompe, geverf soos Namakwalandse madeliefies.
Op Garies koop ons skaaptjops by die slaghuis.
Van Garies is dit met die grondpad na Hondeklipbaai. Hier ontmoet ons Mynderd en Ina Vosloo. Mynderd is ‘n begaafde spotprent kunstenaar. Maar hy doen ook uitstekende werk om die Namakwalandse kusdorpie op doek vas te vang.
Middagete is by die Aristea – die breek skip wat in 1945 op die rotse geloop het. Weer ontmoet ons vir Dudley en Aletta. Saam met hulle reis ons suid, terug in die park in, na die Spoegrivier grotte.
By die grotte het wetenskaplikes opgrawings gedoen en die oudste bewys gevind van skaap beentjies in Suid Afrika. Daar is reeds 2 000 jaar gelede in Namakwaland met skaap geboer.
Ons sien al hoe meer blommetjies. Namakwaland raak al hoe mooier.
Net voor sononder kom ons aan by Koringkorrelbaai. Ons maak kamp, maak vuur en braai skaaptjops, gedagtig aan hulle wat dit 2 000 jaar gelede reeds hier gedoen het.
‘n Pragtige oggend aan die Namakwalandse kus. Ons kon nie vir beter weer gevra het nie, al is dit winter.
Met die tweespoor sandpaadjie reis ons verder suid. Dis die een kampplekkie na die ander. Ek verstaan in die somer, oor Desember, is dit amper onmoontlik om hier staanplek te kry. Die geriewe is bloot ‘n eco toilet. Die res moet jy saambring – kos, water, brandhout….
By Groenriviermond gaan ons die park uit.
Ons reis na die N7, en neem die pad, suid, na Lambertsbaai. Die aand het ons ‘n baie belangrike afspraak, en baie belangrike gaste.
Daar word makietie gehou by die Muisbosskerm. Dis ‘n opelug restaurant wat Edward Turner in 1986 begin het. Dis ‘n plek waar jy jou dood eet aan snoek, paella, hotnotsvisse, calamari, kreef, skaap bredie, afval, styk, vars gebakte brood…
Ons gaste is Elizna en Sebastian, Stefan se vrou en seun. Elizna is ook ons produksie bestuurder. Sy doen fantastiese werk om die Voetspore wiele aan die rol te hou. Maar dan kom my vrou Alma en my dogter Heleen ook kuier. Heleen doen deesdae ons sosiale media. Dit het deel geword van alle TV produksies, en Heleen sorg dat Facebook, Instagram en ander media daagliks opgedateer word.
Ons eregas is Valiant Swart. Valiant is mede verantwoordelik vir die Voetspore tema musiek. Verder is hy ‘n goeie pêl. En dan is hy ook ‘n uitstekende kunstenaar. Vanaand het hy sommer vir Gian Groen genooi om saam ‘n paar songs te kom doen.
Dit word ‘n laat nag kuier.
Dis maar moeilik opstaan na die vorige aand. Maar ons het ‘n afspraak op Vredendal.
Die Vredendal laerskool vier sy 50e verjaarsdag. Dis ‘n groot sportdag op die dorp. Toyota het ‘n groot uitstalling. Dis waar ons die oggend gaan kuier.
Later reis ons verder, die binneland in, na Vanrhynsdorp. By Jean Lambrechts se fantastiese Letsatsi Lodge op die dorp gaan maak ons ons tuis vir twee dae. Dis nou die manier om die week af te sluit.
A day of doing laundry and updating administration. The Beach House at Port Nolloth is the ideal location. All the amenities are available – washing machines, tumble dryers and Wi-Fi. Everything the Voetspore team needs on a free day.
Leon Human, who often deputises as cameraman and assists Nicolette Nolte with the editing of our series, has celebrated his 30th birthday. This called for an “extended lunch” at Vespetti, the most famous eatery in Port Nolloth. Order the “famous calamari parcel’’ – no wonder it is “famous”
On our return to The Beach House we spend the remaining part of the day lounging, watching Grand Prix, and getting ready for the week ahead.
The next morning, Port Nolloth was covered in dense fog. Our free day at The Beach House was excellent. Now further, into Namaqualand.
We travel inland to Steinkopf and caught up with Dudley Wessels just north of town. He will guide us through this beautiful part of our country for the following week.
Dudley is accompanied by a local guide. Her name is Letitia Louw. She has till recently managed the Kookfontein guest house outside Steinkopf. Nowadays she is employed at Hollywood guest house in town. The main reason for our acquaintance is because of her intimate knowledge of Kinderlê.
Kinderlê, is to many of us, an unknown part of our country’s history. It is the sad story of thirty Nama children who were abducted by two Bushmen, murdered by smashing their heads against the granite rocks of Namaqualand. A barbaric tale, but one to take note of. Also of importance, is the reconciliation that followed in 2003. Letitia is the person that can narrate the story.
Our passage through Steinkopf took some time. We were met by many townsfolk while filling up with diesel.
We travel direction Nababeep. Along the way we encounter a few shepherds with their livestock. They suffer from the harsh droughts, but the recent rains brought some relief.
Next stop – Nigramoep. At Nigramoep guest farm we are met by Marius, Johanna, André and Suzette. This guest farm originated by converting a farmhouse, school and a few other buildings. Here one can totally relax, without any pressure.
Nigramoep was once a copper mine. It had to shut down in 2003, due to the decline in the price of copper in the first half of the year.
We continue further, pass the impressive Sheep River valley. Then to Nababeep – a town slowly diminishing since the closing of the copper foundry.
Late afternoon we arrive at Naries, most probably the smartest guest house in Namaqualand. Streicher and I make ourselves at home in a reed hut between granite rocks. Totally upper class. From the gemsbok lapa, we watch the sun sets like a massive red ball. Aletta, Dudley’s wife, joins us. An enjoyable visit, with delicious food. Gemsbok fillet, skilpadjies, roosterkoek and for a change, a salad.
When we wake up, it was raining. Something nobody in Namaqualand complains about.
After an elaborate breakfast at the lodge, we travel with the Spektakel pass to the Buffalo river. There was a prevailing mood of excitement in the little town. Everybody wants to welcome the Voetspore team. The whole school of a few hundred pupils are present.
Then further south, over the plains of Namaqualand. At one point, we turn off the main road and Dudley points out a Camel’s thorn bush forest. It is a rare finding in its exclusive environment.
We drive up the Wildeperdehoek pass which intersects with the Messelpad pass. The pass was built in 1871 to transport copper ore to the Hondeklip Bay harbour, destined for Great Britain. This impressive pass, designed by the Scotsman and engineer Patrick Fletcher, is still in the same condition as when it was built 150 years ago. The pass was built with the help of hard labour sentenced prisoners, for whom he consequently had to erect a prison. Today only the ruins of this historic prison can be seen.
Namaqualand has a wide variety of legends and stories. One of these deals with the origin of Wildeperdehoek pass’s name. One of the builders, who supervised the prisoners, had a great passion for horses. He lived in a house adjacent to the prison and found a local woman as a common-law wife. After receiving news that his wife is on her way from England to visit, he got so anxious that on a moonlit evening he set the horses free, burnt down the prison and committed suicide.
The story is told, that still today, on a moonlit evening, one can hear the shrills of the prisoners burning to death. At twelve a single gunshot is heard, followed by silence.
The only thing that remained is the wild horses roaming the plains.
Dudley takes us to Kookfontein. At the campsite we are met by die Head of the Namaqua National Park, Angela Isaks, and her team. They do amazing work in this region. One of South Africa’s hidden gems.
We are once again entertained with typical food from the region. The Soebatsfontein ladies prepare tripe, vaal meat, roosterkoek, stamp, wheat and pumpkin – everything prepared in cast iron pots over the fire in a smoke shed.
Later that evening we are entertained by Dirk van Schalkwyk narrating Namaqualand tales. He uses the Afrikaans language in a most beautiful way. A moving experience to just sit and listen.
At Kookfontein we first go to the fountain. Every now and then a water bubble appears on the surface. Exactly the reason why this place is called Kookfontein.
We make a short stop at Soebatsfontein and meet up with Dirk again. He tells us the horrific tale of how Soebatsfontein was named. A farmer, who claimed the fountain to be his own, was butchered alive while pleading for his life to be spared. Another cruel, moving story of this region.
We travel to Skilpad – the head office of the Namaqua National Park. Along the way we increasingly spot flowers in bloom. The flowers promise to be a spectacular sight this year. One can also observe the serious effort the park has put into prevent soil erosion. Erosion caused by over grazing.
The Namaqua National Park is a conglomerate of several purchased farms. The boundary fences are removed, likewise the cattle. Game is slowly returning.
At the roof of the Namaqua we prepare lunch and then proceed to Kammieskroon.
We drive through Kammieskroon with its beautiful church, further to the east into Namaqualand. This region should not only be seen during the flowering season. These dramatic granite koppies need to be visited all year round.
Late afternoon we arrive at Leliefontein. A few children are waiting just outside the town to greet us. As we enter the town the numbers grow. I feel more and more like the Pied Piper.
We stay at Vera’s Kookskerm. Almost the entire townsfolk come to greet us and to take pictures of the team and the vehicles.
Early that evening we have barbecue chicken at the Kookskerm. Everything and everybody reek of smoke, but it is the only warm place to be found. We overnight in Nama huts made of grass mats. Vera assures us that it is far warmer than the rooms or the tents. Maybe warmer, but still bitterly cold.
The next morning when we get up the surrounding was white with frost. Very cold. The coffee tastes delicious.
Before we depart, we first go to see where Leliefontein’s name was derived from. Lilies at the fountain – self-explanatory.
We also enter the Methodist church. On the wall is a plaque with 35 names of people from Leliefontein. 35 men that were killed by Manie Maritz. Some uses the word murdered. It happened during the Anglo-Boer War. It is referred to as the Slaughter of Leliefontein.
Two ladies, Shirley Links and Katy Beukes, narrates the sad story as told by their parents. Denys Reitz also comments in his book Commando of the effect that this slaughter had on General Smuts. Yet another story that passes in oblivion.
We travel to Garies. Along the way we notice windmills painted like Namaqua daisies on the farm of Nico Louw, Gideon’s friend.
At Garies butchery we buy lamb chops.
It is a dirt road from Garies to Hondeklip Bay. Here we meet up with Mynderd and Ina Vosloo. Mynderd is a talented caricaturist, who also excellently captures the Namaqua Coastal town on canvass.
Lunch at the Aristea – a trawler that ended on the rocks in 1945. Once again, we meet up with Dudley and Aletta. Together, we travel south, back into the park, towards the Spoeg River caves.
Scientists did excavations at the caves and found the most dated proof of sheep bones in South Africa. Sheep farming in Namaqualand dated back to 2 000 years ago.
We observe more flowers in bloom. Namaqualand becomes more beautiful.
We arrive at Koringkorrel Bay just before sunset. We set up camp, start a fire and grill lamb chops – mindful of the events of 2 000 years ago.
A beautiful morning on the Namaqualand coast. Although it is winter, we could not have asked for better.
We travel further south on a narrow dirt road. We pass the one campsite after the other. Apparently, in summer, it is almost impossible to find a spot. The facilities comprise of a mere eco toilet. You must bring everything else – food, water, firewood …
We leave the park at Green River mouth and travel to the N7, direction south, to Lamberts Bay.
In the evening we have an important appointment with important guests.
A huge party is planned at Muisbosskerm. Edward Turner started this open-air restaurant in 1986. Here you can gorge yourself to death by eating snoek, paella, hotnots fish, calamari, cray fish, mutton stew, tripe, steak, freshly baked bread …
Our guests include Elizna and Sebastian, Stefan’s wife and child. Elizna is our production manager. She does a fantastic job of keeping the Voetspore wheels turning. My wife, Alma, and daughter, Heleen, are also visiting. Heleen is currently responsible for our production’s social media. It has become standard procedure of all television series, and Heleen updates all Facebook, Instagram and other media correspondence.
Our guest of honour is Valiant Swart. He is co-composer of our Voetspore theme music and an excellent musician. He is also a good friend of ours. He brought along Gian Groen to perform a few songs.
It turned into a late evening.
Difficult to get going after the previous evening. We have an appointment at Vredendal.
The Vredendal Primary School celebrates its 50th birthday. It is a huge sporting event. Toyota has a large exhibition. We shall visit the event.
Later, we travel further, inlands to Vanrhynsdorp where we settle in at Jean Lambrechts’s fantastic Letsatsi Lodge for the following two days. This is exactly the way to conclude the week.
Dagboek: Week 2 – Richtersveld (Episode 3) Dagboek: Week 4 – Tankwa Karoo (Episode 5)