Dagboek: Week 8 – Suidelike Drakensberge (Episode 9) – Voetspore Safaris
Alpine Swift is ‘n plek wat die Dunn’s besig is om in te rig vir atlete om op bykans 2 000 meter bo seevlak te kom oefen. Oefening op di hoogte, in vergelyking met oefening by seevlak, stel die atleet in staat om drie keer soveel suurstof in sy bloed te hê . By Dullstroom in Mpumalanga is soortgelyke fasiliteite. Sunelle en Hylton se plek is amper klaar. Eersdaags behoort hulle oorval te word deur atlete wat hier kom oefen.
Elizna, Stefan se vrou en ons produksie bestuurder, en Heleen, my dogter en ons sosiale media bestuurder, het kom kuier. Dit was lekker om damesgeselskap in die span te hê.
Ons het ‘n laat middagete gehou. ‘n Paar dae vantevore het Elizna verjaar. Nou vier ons dit saam met haar en Stefan.
Die dag het met ‘n uitdaging begin. Hylton en Ayanda het twee Toyota Land Cruiser 4×4’s uitgedaag vir ‘n wedloop die berg op.
Hylton se lewensverhaal is inspirerend. Hy was ‘n kokaïne en heroïne verslaafde. Na twee besoeke aan die gevangenis is hy gestuur vir rehabilitasie by Noupoort. Daar het hy begin hardloop. Hy het ‘n paar Commerades klaargemaak. Ook talle ander wedlope. Toe ontmoet hy vir Sunelle, hulle trou en kom rig Alpine Swift op by Rhodes.
Ayanda werk by Alpine Swift. Hy het weer ‘n ander verslawing gehad – dagga. Maar toe los hy dit en begin hardloop saam met Hylton.
In die 4×4 voertuie was die Naude’s. Stefanus en sy broerskind, Peet.
Die roete padlangs was 12 kilometer tot by Stefanus se huis, en dan so twee kilometer berg op. Hylton en Ayanda se roete was net 4 km, maar dis die hele tyd berg op. Beide roetes is uitdagend, vir ‘n mens maar ook vir ‘n Cruiser.
Die drawwers was sowat 5 minute voor die Cruisers op die kruin.
Af teen die berg kry ons heelwat van Stefanus se skape. Hy neem ons ook na die kamp waar die merino’s lam. Al die dragtige ooie word geskandeer voor geboorte, en so weet die boer watter ooi ‘n eenling en watter ‘n tweeling verwag.
Die skape word tydens lamtyd 24 uur van die dag opgepas. As ‘n ooi dalk sukkel om te lam, moet sy gehelp word. ‘n Lammetjie en skaapooi is te waardevol om te verloor.
Laat die middag gaan kuier ons ook by Janbert en Caroline Reeders. Ons het al vantevore by hulle gekuier. Agt jaar gelede, met die Agulhas Alexandrië reeks, was hulle ons gashere. Ook by Janbert is die lam seisoen ernstig aan die gang.
Die aand eet ons by Alpine Swift. Sunelle en Caroline het aandete gemaak. Boerekos. Die vleis is wel van die ribbokke wat ‘n ander boer, Flint, vir ons gaan skiet het.
Ons gaan om die res van Rhodes te verken. Nie dat dit baie lank neem nie. Die dorpie is maar klein. Ons gaan maak onsself tuis by Walkerbouts Inn wat behoort aan Dave Walker. Hy beskou die plek as “the centre of the universe”.
Rhodes is ‘n pragtige dorpie aan die hange van die Witteberge en is ‘n gehuggie met minder as 1 000 inwoners. Talle kom eintlik net vakansietye hierheen. Geen teerstrate, geen straatligte, net huisies, elkeen met ‘n stoep, want dis hoe jy kuier in Rhodes. Dis ’n plek van stoepstories en kunswinkeltjies. Blykbaar is die dorp na Cecil John Rhodes vernoem, in die hoop dat hy aan die dorp baie geld sou gee. Sy reaksie was om aan die dorp ‘n klomp bome te skenk. Daar is ‘n storie dat hy ook 500 pond sou gee, maar die 500 pond, asook die stadsklerk, het verdwyn.
Ons besluit om die omgewing te verken en van die talle bergpasse te gaan ry. Ons begin sommer by die moeilikste een – die Bastervoetpadpas, ook bekend as die Lapa Munnik pas.
Die pas verbind die Barklypas met Ugie. Dit is ‘n roete wat die Griekwas gebruik het. Die pas is 20 kilometer lank, en dit duur nagenoeg drie ure om te ry.
Op die pad is daar drie gedenktekens. Aan die westekant is ‘n klipstapel, sonder datum, wat ons net daarop wys dat die westelike deel van die pas gebou is deur Nic de Bruin.
Op die kruin is nog ‘n klipstapel wat aantoon dat dr. Lapa Munnik die pas geopen het. Hy was destyds Minister van Pos en Telekommunikasie. Bergpasse is na sulke manne vernoem.
Aan die oostelike deel is nog ‘n klipstapel, blykbaar ter ere aan die padbouer van daardie kant van die pas.
Die middag kom ons aan in Ugie. Vandaar ry ons met die teerpad oor Elliot, op met die Barklypas na Barkly Oos. Die pas is die enigste van die bergpasse wat geteer is.
Dit is reeds donker toe ons via Moshesh‘s Ford weer terugkom in Rhodes. Aandete is ‘n Walkerbouts spesialiteit – berg oester, of te wel skaap ballas. Dis die enigste deel van die skaap wat ons nou nog nie geëet het nie, en dit smaak verbasend lekker.
Die week ry ons bietjie heen en weer. Ons is nou op pad na Tenahead, maar om daar uit te kom moet ons eers met die Carlilespas op na Tiffindell. Vanaf Tiffindell is dit met ‘n roete, al op die eskarpment, na die uiters luukse lodge, Tenahead.
Ons reis verby Ben MacDhui, vernoem, na die tweede hoogste berg in Skotland. Van die berg in Skotland word daar geskryf – “After she had climbed to the top of Ben MacDhui on 7 October 1859, Queen Victoria wrote: “It had a sublime and solemn effect, so wild, so solitary—no one but ourselves and our little party there … I had a little whisky and water, as the people declared pure water would be too chilling.” Die wêreld herinner mens nogal aan die Skotse Hooglande.
By Tenahead word ons in weelde en luuksheid ontvang deur lodge bestuurder, Ashley Bruigom. Dis nat lappies om ons gesigte af te vee en ‘n lekker sjerrie teen die koue.
Ons twee dames word gepamperlang. In die spa kry Heleen ‘n massering en Elizna ‘n pedikuur. Die manne sit voor die kaggel en lees.
Net voor sononder ry ons op na die aasvoël restaurant. Daar is geen aasvoëls te sien nie, maar die sonsondergang is skouspelagtig mooi.
Terug by die lodge en dit is tyd vir ‘n vyf gang aandete, voorgesit deur sjef Heinrich Schultz. Eers was dit ‘n parfait, daarna wortelsop, toe garnaal tempura, biefstuk met ‘n peper sous, afgesluit met sjokolade mousse. Dis aandete op ‘n ander vlak as waaraan ons gewoond is.
Terug in die kamer en elke kaggel is reeds aan die brand gesteek, die warm komberse is aangeskakel en die badwater met borrels en sout is reeds getap. Dis nie sleg nie.
Ons is vroeg op om te probeer forel vang. Nie ek, Streicher of Simon was suksesvol nie. Die strome was leeg. Die vis het weggekruip.
Ons het ‘n uitstekende ontbyt genuttig. Weet nie wanneer laas ek panacotta vir ontbyt gehad het nie.
Ons het die mense van Tenahead gegroet en vertrek. Met Naude’s Nek is dit af tot in Rhodes. Van Rhodes het ons verder gery na Moshesh‘s Ford, en toe noord gedraai. Dis ‘n pragtige roete.
Net anderkant Wartrail stop ons by ‘n plaashuis wat voorheen Woolies was. Dit was soort van ‘n koffiewinkel en behoort aan Chris en Kath Isted. Hulle doen dit vir jare lank nie meer nie, maar nooi ons in, gee ons koek en koffie, en sommer baie inligting oor die streek.
Ons ry tot aan die kruin van die volgende pas – Lundeans Nek. Vandaar is ‘n uitstekende uitsig oor Lesotho en die Maluti ’s. Toe is dit terug Wartrail toe, en toe met Volunteershoek na Tiffindell. Volunteershoek is nie ‘n openbare pad nie. Dis ‘n pad wat deur die boere gemaak is, en steeds deur hulle onderhou word. Aan die bopunt van die pas is ‘n spaarbussie waarin gebruikers van die pad gevra word om ‘n donasie te maak.
Volunteershoek is seker een van die steilste bergpasse wat ek nog gery het.
Dis reeds donker toe ons aankom by Tiffindell. Die plek is toe onder die mis. Ons het gehoop vir sneeu, maar daar is niks.
Tiffindell se personeel onthaal ons. Voorgereg van forel. Hoofgereg – heerlike styks, slaai en groente. Die plek is bietjie stil, en daar is geen ander gaste nie. Dis jammer. Maar die mense is, soos ‘n boer, afhanklik van die elemente. As dit nie sneeu nie is dit nie moontlik om te ski nie. Die seisoen sal weer kom.
Ons het vroeg vertrek. Tiffindell se mense het vir ons vrugteslaai en jogurt vir ontbyt gegee, en ook muffins om saam te neem.
Ons is af met die Carlislehoekpas in die rigting van Rhodes. So steil as wat Volunteershoek op was, so steil is Carlislehoek af. Heleen het met die RAV gery. Dis die voertuig waarmee sy en Elizna vir ons kom kuier het. Dit is nogal ‘n uitdaging, maar gelukkig het die karretjie “decent control”. Die pas is 14 km lank.
Net voor Rhodes draai ons oos. Weer is dit oor Naude’s Nek, rigting Maclear. Die anderkant af is dit met Elandshoogte. Maar toe draai ons in die rigting van Mount Fletcher en Matatiele. Teen twee uur die middag kom ons aan by Ongeluksnek.
Die grenspos van Ongeluksnek verbind Suid Afrika met Lesotho. Audrey Steenkamp, Jean Pienaar, Elaine Davids, Noreen Jones en Sharon Mann, in hulle tradisionele Griekwa drag, ontmoet ons en vertel van die geskiedenis van die mense toe Adam Kok verplig was om sy grond te verkoop en te trek na ‘n wêreld wat hy en sy 2000 volgelinge nie geken het nie. Hier het hulle oor die Drakensberg gekom.
Paul Pienaar is ‘n leier in Griekwaland Oos se Nasionale Xoisanraad. Hy ken die geskiedenis van die mense, en vertel ons van Sir Harry Smith, die Boere en uiteindelik George Grey wat aan Adam Kok III die grond in die Niemandsland tussen die Zoeloes en Xhosas gegee het. 2000 mense, 25 000 stuks vee, 300 ossewaens wat oor drie jaar getrek het vanaf Philippolis tot in die Oos Kaap. Dis waar Griekwaland Oos vandaan kom.
Die Griekwas vertel ons van hulle geloof. Van hulle morele waardes. Van hulle leier, Adam Kok III wat dood is toe hy van sy perdekar afgeval het op 30 Desember 1875. Vandag nog is dit ‘n trotse nasie, miskien ‘n bietjie misplaas. Dis vreemd om die mense, met hulle voertaal Afrikaans, met hulle gesange in Hoog Hollands, aan te tref tussen mense wat Zoeloe en Xhosa praat.
In 1863 het die geskiedenis van ‘n volk verander. Die Griekwas het oor die Drakensberg getrek en hulle kom vestig in Niemandsland, tussen die Transkei en Kwa Zulu Natal. Dit het geword – Griekwaland Oos.
Ons het ‘n afspraak by Thekwini Toyota. Die Voetspore manne kom kuier by die mense van Kokstad.
Stefan stap oor die straat en gaan maak ‘n draai by die Griekwakerk. Marline Uithaler is die algemene sekretaris van die Griekwa Nasionale Onafhanklike Kerk. Hy vertel vir ons van die geskiedenis van die kerk. Die predikant van die kerk is Eerwaarde Ebrahim Present. Stefan woon sommer ‘n diens by waarin eerwaarde Present dit duidelik maak – ons moet die Here vra om vrede na ons land te bring.
Die middag reis ons na Pietermaritzburg. Ons gaan maak ons tuis op ‘n plaas net buite die stad. Elmarie en Errol se Ekukhanyeni plaashuis is ‘n ideale plek om vir twee dae te kom afpak, en om alles te kroon maak Elmarie vir die Voetsporespan die heerlikste lasagne.
Daar is reeds agt weke van ons reis agter die blad.
Alpine Swift is a place where the Dunns’ are establishing a 2 000 metre above sea level venue for athletes to train. The difference in training on or above sea level, enables athletes to have three times the amount of oxygen in their blood. At Dullstroom, in Mpumalanga are similar facilities. Sunelle and Hylton’s venue is near completion. Soon, they will be bombarded by athletes who want to train here.
Elizna, Stefan’s wife and our production manager, as well as Heleen, my daughter and social media manager, came to visit. What a change to have female company.
We enjoyed a late lunch. Elizna celebrated her birthday a few days ago and together we join in the celebration with her and Stefan.
The day started with a 4×4 mountain challenge. Hylton and Ayanda would race against two Toyota Land Cruisers to the top.
Hylton has an inspiring life-story. He used to be a cocaine and heroin addict. After being incarcerated twice, he was sent by prison authorities for rehabilitation at Noupoort. This is where he found his passion for running. He completed a few Comrades and several other races. After meeting Sunelle, they got married and built Alpine Swift at Rhodes.
Ayanda is employed at Alpine Swift. He, on the other hand was addicted to dagga. After quitting, he started running with Hylton.
By road, a 12-kilometre route to Stefanus’s house and then a further two kilometre up the mountain. Hylton and Ayanda’s route was a four kilometres mountainous route. Both routes challenging to human and Cruiser.
The runners had a 5-minute victory to the top.
Going down the mountain, we observe many of Stefanus’s sheep. He takes us to a camp where the merino’s give birth. The gravid ewes are scanned before lambing, to determine single or twin births.
Sheep are carefully observed for 24 hours per day during lambing. Ewes need to be assisted when straining to give birth. An ewe and its lamb are too precious to be lost.
Late afternoon we visit Janbert and Caroline Reeders. We have visited them in the past. They were our hosts, eight years ago on the Agulhas to Alexandria series. Jan is also seriously involved with the lambing season.
That evening we have supper at Alphine Swift, prepared by Sunelle and Caroline. Home cooked food. On the menu is rhebuck, which was hunted by another farmer, Flint.
We leave to explore the remaining part of Rhodes. It does not take long. The town is quite small. We settle in at Walkerbouts Inn, owned by Dave Walker. He regards this place as “the centre of the universe”.
Rhodes is a beautiful, small village nestled at the cliffs of the Witteberg with less than 1 000 inhabitants. It is exclusively a holiday destination. No tar roads, street lights, only houses with verandas, where people visit socially. A town full of art shops and local news.
This town is apparently named after Cecil John Rhodes, hoping that he would make a huge donation to the town. Instead he donated several trees. The story goes that he proposed to donate 500 pounds, but both the 500 pounds and the town-clerk went missing.
We decide to explore the region and to drive on one of the mountain passes. We start off with one of the most challenging ones – the Bastervoetpad pass, also known as the Lapa Munnik pass.
This pass intersects Barkly pass with Ugie, which was used by the Griquas. The distance of the pass is 20 kilometres and takes three hours to complete.
Along the way are three memorials. On the western side is an undated cairn, that proves that it was built by Nic de Bruin.
On the top of the pass is another cairn to indicate that Dr Lapa Munnik, former Minister of Telecommunications, opened this pass that was named after him.
On the eastern side is another cairn, erected in honour of the road builder of that side of the pass.
In the afternoon we arrive at Ugie and proceed further to Elliot, located on the Barkly pass towards Barkley East. This is the only pass with a tar road.
Darkness has fallen when we arrive in Rhodes via Moshesh’s Ford. Dinner is a Walkerbouts speciality – mountain oysters or rather, sheep’s testicles. The only cut of lamb that we haven’t tasted – surprisingly delicious.
This week we travel here and there. We head towards Tenahead Mountain Lodge, but we must drive via Carlilespass to Tiffendell. From Tiffendell on route, along the escarpment to the luxury lodge, Tenahead.
We pass Ben MacDhui, named after the second highest mountain in Scotland. It has been written – “After Queen Victoria climbed to the top of Ben MacDhui on 7 October 1859, she wrote: It had a sublime and solemn effect, so wild, so solitary – only us and our little party there … I had a little whisky and water, as the people declared pure water would be too chilling.” This part of the world is reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.
At Tenahead we have a totally luxurious reception by the manager, Ashley Bruigom. Little wet facecloths and sherry to ward off the coldness.
Our two ladies are pampered in the spa. Heleen gets a massage and Elizna a pedicure. The men read in front of the furnace.
Shortly before sunset we drive to the vulture restaurant. No vultures to be seen but the sunset is breathtakingly beautiful.
Back at the lodge and a 5- course meal prepared by chef Heinrich Schultz awaits us. Parfait for starter, followed by carrot soup, shrimp tempura, beef with pepper sauce and chocolate mousse for dessert. Dinner on a level that we are not usually accustomed to.
Back in our rooms the furnaces are lit, the electrical blankets are switched on and the bathtubs filled with salt and foam. Not too bad.
We got up early to go trout fishing. Neither Streicher, Simon or I were successful. The streams were empty. The fish were shy.
We had an excellent breakfast. Been a while since I had panna cotta for breakfast.
After greeting the people at Tenahead we depart via Naude’s Neck downwards to Rhodes. From Rhodes we travel to Moshesh’s Ford and turn north. A beautiful route.
Beyond Wartrail we stop at a farmhouse formerly operated as Woolies. A type of coffee shop owned by Chris and Kath Isted. Not in operation for a while, but they nevertheless invite us in for cake and coffee and give us lots of information about the region.
We drive to the crest of the next pass – Lundeans Neck. An excellent view over Lesotho and the Malutis’. From there back to Wartrail and Volunteershoek via Tiffindell. Volunteershoek is not a public road. The farmers built and still maintain this road. At the top of the pass is a money box where road users are asked for a donation.
Volunteershoek is one of the steepest mountain passes that I have ever travelled on.
It is dark when we arrive at Tiffindell. Everything is covered in fog. We anticipated snow, but no luck.
The staff at Tiffindell entertain us. Trout for starters. Mains – steak, salad and veggies. The venue is subdued with no other guests present. A shame. But like farming, this business relies on the elements. It is impossible to ski with no snow. The season will return.
We depart early. Tiffindell’s hosts served us fruit salad and yoghurt and muffins to take away.
We drive down the Carlislehoek pass direction Rhodes. Ascending Volunteershoek pass was as challenging as descending Carlislehoek pass. Heleen drives the RAV. It is the vehicle that she and Elizna arrived with. Quite challenging, but luckily the car is equipped with decent control. The length of the pass is 14 km.
Before reaching Rhodes, we turn east. We travel over Naude’s Neck once again direction Maclear. On the opposite side we travel down Elandshoogte. We then turn towards Mount Fletcher and Matatiele. At two in the afternoon we arrive at Ongeluksnek.
The boarder post at Ongeluksnek connects South Africa with Lesotho. We are greeted by Audrey Steenkamp, Jean Pienaar, Elaine Davids, Noreen Jones and Sharon Mann, dressed in traditional gear. They narrate the history of Adam Kok when he was compelled to sell his land and to move with 2 000 of his followers to an unknown world. This is where they came over the Drakensberg mountain.
Paul Pienaar is the leader of the Griqualand East National Xoisan Council. He is familiar with the history of the people, and tells us about Sir Harry Smith, the Boers and George Grey who gave land to Adam III in No Man’s Land, amidst the Zulus and Xhosas. 2 000 people, 25 000 livestock, 300 ox wagons who travelled for three years from Philippolis to the Eastern Cape. That is how Griqualand East got its name.
The Griquas tell us about their religion and moral values. Their leader, Adam Kok III, was killed when he fell off a horse cart on 30 December 1875. Still today, somewhat misplaced, but a proud nation. It is unusual to find Afrikaans speaking people, singing hymns in Old Dutch, communicating with fellow citizens in Zulu and Xhosa.
In 1863 the history of a nation changed. The Griquas came over the Drakensberg mountains to settle in No Man’s Land, between Transkei and Kwa-Zulu. It became Griqualand East.
We have an appointment with Thekwini Toyota. The Voetspore team visits the people of Kokstad.
Stefan crosses the road and visits the Griqua church. Marline Uithaler is the general secretary of the Griqua National Independent Church. He narrates the history of the church. The minister of the church is Reverend Ebrahim Present. Stefan attends a service where Reverend Present explains in detail – we must request God to bring peace to our country.
In the afternoon we travel to Pietermaritzburg. We make ourselves at home on a farm outside of town. Ekukhanyeni Farm House, owned by Elmarie and Errol, is the ideal location to unload for two days. To top it all, Elmarie serves the Voetspore team with the most delicious lasagne.
We have so far completed eight weeks of our journey.
Dagboek: Week 7 – Wildekus (Episode 8) Dagboek: Week 9 – Natalse Slagvelde (Episode 10)