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Deels massief acaciahout - ecrukleurig/acaciahout
Kleur: Voorkant: ecrukleurig
Afmetingen: Hoogte: 61 cm Dagboek: Week 2 - Richtersveld (Episode 3) | Voetspore RSA
Die eerste dag wat ons so ‘n bietjie kon asemhaal. So bietjie van ‘n breek kan vat. Riemvasmaak is ‘n uitstekende plek om dit te doen. Veral as mens eers gaan “bad” in die warm bron.
Riemvasmaak se warm bron, kampplek en chalets word bestuur deur die Riemvasmaak Trust. Dis een van die min geleenthede wat die Trust het om geld te maak. Maar dit gaan maar broekskeur. Vir maande reeds is die elektrisiteit na die chalets onderbreek. By die kampplek is daar ook net ‘n koue water stort. Met ‘n klein bietjie inisiatief sal die pragtige plek, in die loop van die Moloporivier, baie meer besoekers lok.
Dis amper bietjie soos die hoender of die eier – hoe meer mense, hoe meer kan die geriewe verbeter. Maar hoe beter die geriewe, hoe meer mense sal ook hierheen kom.
Dit was ‘n uitstekende rusdag.
Ons is sommer vroeg op en vertrek vanaf Riemvasmaak se kampplek. By die Berg en Dal Coffee Shop gaan haal ons die wasgoed wat Norbert se vrou vir ons gedoen het, skryf ons name op die muur, drink ‘n koffie en vertrek.
Ons ry in die rigting van Augrabies. Norbert gaan wys ons waar die Molopo in die Gariep inloop. Daarna is ons met die enkellaanbrug oor die groot rivier.
Ons vat die lang pad oor Pofadder na Pella.
By Pella aangekom en ‘n groep kinders, geklee in tradisionele drag, verwelkom ons by die kerk met ‘n riel dans. Te pragtig.
Ons gids is Ina Basson. Sy neem ons die kerk binne. Vertel die geskiedenis. Ina is ‘n goed opgeleide gids wat die streek ken. Dis lekker om na haar te luister hoe sy vertel waar Pella sy ontstaan gehad het. Ons gaan ook na die klein museum. Pella is ‘n moet vir enige iemand wat die noord Kaap besoek.
Laat middag neem Ina en Dirk Goosen ons na ‘n kampplek op die oewer van die Oranje rivier. Dis koelerig. Dis winter. Ons maak ‘n groot vuur voor ons gaan inkruip.
Die son steek eers teen half agt sy kop oor die berge van die noord Kaap. Koffie uit die ketel wat op die vuurtjie kook is baie lekker. In die nag was dit koel. Ons hoor daar is ‘n koue front oor die Kaap, en dat dit reën in Springbok.
Ons vertrek vanaf die kampplek. Ons gaan maak ‘n draai by die dadel en tafeldruif plaas, Klein Pella. Dit het ook uitstekende kamp geriewe en slaapplek in die gastehuis. Dit was eers die huis van Oom Gertjie Niemoller wat die plek begin het. Nou behoort dit aan Piet Kartsens van Karstens Boerdery, met Khaki Goosen en sy vrou Glenda wat dit bestuur. Dit is ‘n massiewe onderneming.
Die keer vertoef ons nie te lank op Klein Pella nie. Ons gebruik hulle internet om noodsaaklike korrespondensie af te handel, koop dadels en vertrek.
Ina en Dirk is weer saam met ons. Hulle neem ons na die mond van die Hartebees rivier. Dis ‘n droë loop wat uitloop in die Gariep. Onderweg ry ons verby ‘n paar pragtige kokerbome.
Die weer begin skielik draai. Daar kom rukwinde op. Dit veroorsaak stofstorms. Dis gure weer.
By die Hartebeesriviermond groet ons vir Ina en Dirk. Nou is ons op ons eie.
Ons reis na Goodhouse. By die plek, vernoem na ‘n huis wat vandag net ‘n bouval is, ontmoet ons vir Fernando Ntuli. Hy is gids in die streek. Die man is ‘n uitstekende gids met die pragtigste Namakwalandse sêgoed. Hy werk hard daaraan om die Namakwaland 4×4 eko roete te bemark en mense aan te moedig om die regte gidse te kry en ook die fooie te betaal. Dis nog maar bietjie van ‘n opdraande stryd.
Na Goodhouse ontmoet ons vir Karel du Toit en Hansie Jansen. Karel is die hoof van die veediefstal eenheid van die polisie op Springbok. Maar Karel is ‘n kenner van die plante van die streek. Sy vriend Hansie, wat by Noordoewer boer, is weer ‘n man wat die paadjies van die streek ry, op soek na nuwe roetes.
Ons ry saam met Karel en Hansie tot in die droë loop van die Gamkarivier. Die weer raak al hoe erger. Karel sê hy het nog nooit reën in die streek gekry nie. Ook nie Hansie nie. Dis stofstorms, afgewissel met vlae reën. Laatmiddag bedaar dit bietjie.
Ons maak kamp in die rivierloop. Karel het dikderm saamgebring om te braai. Simon maak ‘n bredie van die springbok skenkels. Dis ‘n lekker aand onder die sterre.
Toe ons wakker word en opstaan is my Cruiser se linker agterwiel pap. Streicher stel ondersoek in. ‘n Stok het deur die sywand gesteek. Streicher moet hom plug.
Ons ry af rivier toe. Die Gariep loop maar laag.
Ons gaan terug, stroom-op. Ons is nou in die Namakwalandse Klipkoppe. Dis baie mooi terrein. Dis die klip woestyn van Suid Afrika.
Karel wys ons al hoe meer van die plante. Nie net ken hy hulle volksname nie, maar ook die wetenskaplike name.
Karel wys ons ook ‘n eensame graf in die woestyn. Na bewering die graf van ‘n Boesman. Maar hoekom dit nou juis daar is, is onduidelik. Die streek het talle versweë geheime.
Hansie neem ons na ‘n myn naby Nous. Namaqua Aquamarine, ‘n groen en blou half edelgesteente, is hier gemyn. Vandag is dit net ‘n bouval.
Die middag is dit tyd vir die halfmense – pachypodium namaquanum. Ons sien hulle eers by ‘n plek waar Simon vir ons middagete maak. Later wys Karel dit vir ons tussen die spierwit kwartsiet. Toe tussen pikswart klippe. Dis dramatiese landskappe met oer plante. ‘n Halfmens groei in ‘n swak jaar skaars 1 mm. Van die plante is heelwat ouer as 1 000 jaar.
Laat middag ry ons teen ‘n koppie uit om die sonsondergang te sien. Japie Coetzee, bestuurder van die Swartbergmyn, kom groet. Hy vertel ons van die verskeidenheid minerale wat daar te myn is in die noord Kaap.
Toe die son ondergaan ry ons na Noordoewer waar ons gaan kamp by Fiddlers Creek. Vriendelike mense met uitstekende geriewe vir overlanders en kampeerders.
Donderdag 25 Julie
Ons is vroeg op. Voor sonop. Daarvoor moes ons na ‘n uitkykpunt bo die kranse van Kotzeshoop. Dis pragtig om die son te sien opkom oor die Oranjerivier.
Ons ry verder. Langs die pad kry ons ‘n skaapwagter met sy vee. Petrus vertel vir ons dat dit ‘n harde lewe is. Mens sien die swaarkry ge-ets op sy gesig. Veral in die droogte jare is dit ver loop om die skape en bokke te laat wei.
Ons gaan die Nababiep Natuurreservaat binne. Eers na ‘n uitkyk oor die Oranje vir ‘n laaste sien van die rivier. Toe suid.
Ons stop by massiewe rotse met interessante rotstekeninge. Van die wetenskaplikes beweer dis tot twee duisend jaar oud. Daar is ook meer onlangse gravures, aangebring deur vandale. Dis jammer.
Karel wys ons ‘n verskeidenheid euforbias. Dit lyk of sy gunsteling die gariepina, vernoem na die Garieprivier is. Hy vertel in Suidelike Afrika is daar ongeveer 210 spesies van die melkbosse waarvan 40 in Namakwaland voorkom.
Karel wys ons ook ander plantjies. Knoppies, wat mens skaars raaksien. Ook plantjies wat blom na die bietjie reën van die vorige week.
Laat middag het ons ‘n ernstige 4×4 uitdaging, net om by ‘n besonderse uitkykpunt te kom.
Net voor die son sak maak ons kamp op die rant van ‘n afgrond. Dis sekerlik een van ons mooiste kampplekke ooit.
Die nag was minder koud as die ander. Die sonsopkoms dalk mooier as die voriges. Dis juis hoekom ons die kamp op die rant van die krans gemaak het.
Ons vertrek. Aanvanklik is dit redelik uitdagende 4×4 terrein. Die swaar Cruisers beur voort in donkie rat.
Karel en Hansie neem ons na ‘n pragtige uitkykpunt. Dis moeite om daar te kom, maar dit is die moeite werd.
Ons sien gaap langs die pad. Dis ‘n komkommer wat die Boesmans gebruik het om hulle eetlus te demp. Dis later gekweek, juis vir daardie doel. Die mense se ewige versugting om te verslank…
Daar is ook ander, pragtige plantjies. Gansmis, wat jy skaars tussen die klippe kan sien. Poeierkwas bos, wat Karel vir die eerste keer sien blom. Ook malvas wat blom. By ‘n paar pragtige botterbome hou ons stil vir middagete.
Ons gaan aan by nog ‘n verlate myn. Die een lê onder in ‘n vallei. Dis die Boesmanlepel myn waar daar in 1968 Mica gemyn is. Nou is dit net ‘n paar bouvalle.
Ons reis in die rigting van Kosies. Hier ontmoet ons skaapwagter Jasper Coetzee, ‘n man met ‘n 600 stuks vee. Hy vertel dat die droogte en ongediertes kwel. Dat dit ‘n moeilike lewe is. Dat dit ‘n ongenaakbare wêreld is.
Die aand maak ons vir die laaste keer kamp in die veld saam met Karel en Hansie. Dit was ‘n uitstekende week saam met die mense wat so passievol is oor hulle wêreld. Dis ‘n plek wat gedeel moet word met soveel meer.
Ons is Springbok toe. By die Toyota Handelaar ontmoet ons ‘n paar honderd mense wat die Voetsporemanne kom groet, ‘n foto neem, ‘n handtekening kry en ‘n storie vertel.
Voetspore in Suid Afrika wys ons soveel nuwe plekke en stel ons voor aan soveel nuwe mense. Dit is ‘n belewenis.
This is the first day that we can take a breather. Riemvasmaak is an excellent location to do this. Especially if you start off by taking a bathe in the hot spring.
Riemvasmaak’s hot spring, campsites and chalets are managed by the Riemvasmaak Trust. This is one of the few opportunities to earn. The electricity has been interrupted for months. There is only a cold-water shower at the campsite. With a little initiative this beautiful place, next to the Molopo river, will attract many more visitors.
It is almost like the chicken or the egg – the more visitors, the more the facilities can improve. But the better the facilities, the more people it will attract.
It was an excellent day of rest.
We start the day early and leave Riemvasmaak’s campsite. At the Berg en Dal Coffee Shop we pick up the clean laundry that Norbert’s wife did, graffiti our names, have a coffee and depart.
We drive in the direction of the Augrabies. Norbert shows us where the Molopo flows into the Gariep. We then cross the huge river on a single lane bridge.
Our guide is Ina Basson. She is an expert guide who is acquainted with the region. She takes us into the church and tells about the history and origin of Pella. It is a pleasure listening to her. We also visit the small museum. Pella is a must for any visitor to the northern Cape.
Late afternoon, Ina and Dirk Goosen take us to a campsite on the banks of the Orange river. It is cold. It is winter. We make a bonfire before we retire.
The sun only appears behind the mountains of the northern Cape at half past eight. The coffee brewing on the fire tastes delicious. It was a cool night. A cold front is entering from the Cape and Springbok can expect rain. We leave our campsite and pay a visit to the date- and grape farm Klein Pella. It has excellent camping facilities as well as a guest house. The first owner, Uncle Gertjie Niemoller, started this venture. It is now owned and managed by Piet Karstens and his wife, Glenda of Karstens Farms. It is a massive business.
This time we do not linger at Little Pella. We make use of their internet facilities to update essential correspondence, purchase dates and leave. Ina and Dirk are still in our company. They take us to the mouth of the Hartebees river. It is a dry run that has its outlet in the Gariep. Along the way we pass a few beautiful quiver trees. The weather changes and gusts of wind start to flare up. It results in dust storms. The weather is bleak.
At the mouth of the Hartebees river we say our goodbyes to Ina and Dirk. Now we are on our own.
We travel to Goodhouse. At the venue, which today is only a ruin, we meet Fernando Ntuli who is a guide of this region. He is an expert and uses the most beautiful Namaqua phrases. He puts a real effort into the marketing of the Namaqua 4×4 Eco Route and encourages people to find the best guides and to pay the required fees. It is still an ongoing uphill struggle.
After visiting Goodhouse, we meet Karel du Toit and Hansie Jansen. Karel is head of the Springbok police anti-theft unit. He is an expert on the vegetation of this region. His friend, Hansie, who farms at Noordoewer, travels on these roads often and is a keen explorer of new routes.
Karel and Hansie take us to the dry run of the Gamka river. The weather worsenes. Karel has never seen rain in this region. Nor has Hansie. There are dust storms alternated by showers of rain. By late afternoon, it has subsided a bit.
We set up camp in the riverbed. Karel has brought along dikderm to grill. Simon prepares a stew of the springbuck knuckles. It is a pleasant starry evening.
We awoke the following morning to find my Cruiser’s left rear tyre to be flat. Streicher investigates. A stick got stuck in the sidewall. Streicher must plug it. We drive down to the river. The Gariep is running low. We travel back, up stream. We are now in the beautiful terrain of the Namaqualand rocky hills. This is the rocky desert of South Africa.
Karel shows us more of the vegetation. He knows both the botanical and common names of the plants. He also points out a desolate grave in the desert. It is allegedly known to be that of a Bushman, but the facts are still unclear. The region has many hidden secrets.
Hansie takes us to a mine near Nous. Namaqua Aquamarine, a green and blue semi-precious stone, was mined here. Today only ruins remain.
By midday it is time to search for the semi-human (Pachypodium namaquanum). We only notice it at a spot where Simon prepares lunch. Karel points it out between pale white quartzite. Then again amongst pitch-black rocks. These are dramatic landscapes with ancient vegetation. The semi-human barely grows 1 mm in a poor year. Some of these plants exceeds 1 000 years.
Late afternoon we drive up a hill to watch the sunset. Japie Coetzee, manager of the Swartberg mine, comes around to shake hands. He tells us about the variety of minerals which are mined in the northern Cape.
After sunset we head to Noordoewer where we camp at Fiddlers Creek. Friendly people with excellent facilities for overlanders and campers.
We get up before sunrise. We go to a look-out post at Kotzeshoop’s cliffs. It is breathtakingly beautiful to watch the sunrise over the Orange river.
We continue. Along the way we meet a shepherd with his cattle. Petrus tells us that this is a hard life and his facial features are a true reflection. Especially during a drought, he must travel vast distances to find grazing for his livestock.
We enter the Nababiep Nature Reserve. We catch a last glimpse of the Orange river from a look-out. Then we continue south.
We stop to look at massive rocks with interesting engravings. Scientists claim it to be more than 2 000 years old. There are also more recent graffiti by vandals, which is quite sad.
Karel shows us a variety of euphorbias. His favourite is the gariepina, named after the Gariep river. South Africa has approximately 210 species of these milk bushes and 40 of these can be found in Namaqualand.
Karel also shows us other vegetation. Knoppies, which can be barely seen by the naked eye and other plants which are in bloom after the little rain that fell.
Late afternoon we drove a serious 4×4 challenge in order to reach a unique look-out. Just before sunset we set up camp on the edge of a precipice. Surely one of our most beautiful campsites ever.
The night was colder than the others. The sunrise more beautiful as before. This is exactly why we made camp on the edge of the precipice.
We depart. A rather challenging 4×4 route. The Cruisers press ahead in donkey gear. Karel and Hansie take us to a scenic look-out. It takes effort to reach this point, but it is surely worth it.
We see gaap along the way. This is a cucumber used by the Bushmen as an appetite suppressant. It was later cultivated for this purpose. Humans’ eternal longing to lose weight …
Other beautiful flora is seen. Gansmis, between the rocks, Poeierkwasbos which Karel sees in bloom for the first time. The malvas are also in flower. We stop for lunch next to a few butter trees.
We visit yet another abandoned mine. This one is situated down in a valley. The Bushman spoon mine where Mica was mined in 1968. Only a few ruins remained.
We travel in the direction of Kosies. Here we meet shepherd Jasper Coetzee with his 600 head of cattle. He narrates of troublesome droughts and wild beasts. A difficult life. An unapproachable world.
That evening we camp with Karel and Hansie for the last time. It was an excellent week with people who are truly passionate about their world. It should be shared with so many more.
We continue to Springbok. At the Toyota Dealer we are met by a few hundred people who came to greet the Voetspore team, take pictures, get signatures and chat.
Voetspore in South Africa takes us to so many new places and unknown people. Quite an experience.
Dagboek: Week 1 – Kalahari (Episode 2) Dagboek: Week 3 – Namakwaland (Episode 4)