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Hondsmerk, R. En nu jij Beesvleis in die bakoond | Skoor. Uit my Koskas.
← Rys. Warm of Koud. Slaai	Brie en Bessies →	Beesvleis in die bakoond	01
Gister was egter ‘n bees van ‘n ander smaak… Ek het ‘n blok bees – daai ‘roast’ vleis wat jy in die winkel koop – in blokkies opgesny, en ‘n ontluikende jong man in die huis aangespoor om kulliner met die oggend te verkeer. Die beesvleis blokkies, so 3cm grootte, is eers in meel gerol, en dan in ‘n emalje pot geseel en effe verbruin. Alles kan nie gelyktydig in die pot ingaan nie, daarom verg dit geduld en konsentrasie. Veral as die warm olie in die pot jou al op die arms raps. Om vleis te seel en te verbruin moet jy die bietjies-bietjies doen, anders begin dit kook ipv braai.
Wanneer al die vleis deurgewerk en gaarder as rou is, neem jy ‘n handvol piekel uitjies en gooi hulle in die pot. Rol hulle rond sodat die buurt wonder of ‘n nuwe restaurant in die omgewing oopgemaak het. Ons doen hierdie dinge sommer buite, so die buurt is gereeld aan’t wonder. Gooi ‘n halfbottel rooiwyn by die uitjies in die pot, en ‘deglaze’ die bodem van die pot. Gooi die vleis terug by die wyn, en pak aartappels, seldery en wortels bo-op die vleis. En vars knoffel. Baie.
← Rys. Warm of Koud. Slaai	Brie en Bessies →	16 responses to “Beesvleis in die bakoond”	Lemmie	Mei 2, 2010 at 6:31 nm	Hoe het jy jou buite-bakoond gebou (afmetings, materiale gebruik0
As jy die vuur gestook het en die kole uitkrap as die hout uitgebrand het, hoe weet jy die oond is warm genoeg?
Hoe dik maak jy die wnde om genoeg hitte te stoor om kos, imnmy geval, brood, regte groot brode, te bak.
Indie moontlik antwoord asseblief na my e-pos adres.
Reply	Skoor	Mei 5, 2010 at 12:09 nm	Lemmie, ek praat sommer hier, want netnou wil nog mense weet.
Ek het ‘n geboude braai struktuur gehad, wat ek nooit gebruik het nie. Ek het ‘n WELCOME DOVER deksel gekry, en die oond rondom hom beplan!
Die oond is so ‘n meter breed, en 1.5m diep. Ek het by die skrootwerf ‘n metaal plaat vir die dak gekry, en ‘n gat ingesny vir die skoorsteen.
Die struktuur is met ‘vuursteentjies’ gebou, ook oor die dak, en toe met klip uit die Karoo, afgerond. Buite om. Rofweg sou ek skat die wande is so 20cm dik.
Ek maak lekker vuur, en hou sommer die vuur aan die brand agter in die oond as ek ‘n pot kos insit. Jy kan egter by winkels wat potte en kookgerei verkoop, vra vir ‘n termometer wat jy in ‘n oond kan sit, as jy die presiese hittegraad wil vasstel.
Hoop jy bou en bak lekker!
Reply	Hans Moerdyk	November 15, 2010 at 6:27 nm	Ek het my bakoond van klei gebou en bak brood, pizza, “potroast” & aartappels, heel hoender, eenpot gereg en beskuit (en uitgedroog) daarin gebak. Ek voel die temperatuur met die hand. Jy skroei net eenmaal al jou armhare af en leer gou. Die oond is 1,2 X 0,9m, groot genoeg vir 3 ronde no 12 potte of 15 “kêffie” Brode. Die wande is 220mm dik en die vloer 75mm dik. Email my vis meer inliting.
Reply	Wilhelm Els	Februarie 8, 2015 at 10:36 nm	Hans kan jy my dalk meer inligting oor die bou van jou buite oond email asb. Baie dankie Wilhelm Els. My epos wilhelmels@xsinet.co.za
Reply	Alida Verwoerd	Mei 30, 2011 at 8:32 vm	Ek het verlede jaar my bakoond spesiaal gebou vir ons jaarlikse Kragdag op Diamantvallei (allerhande alternatiewe kragprodukte-uitstalling) maar het dit nie betyds klaargekry nie! Intussen wel klaargekry en al baie brood gebak veral Italiaanse Ciabata want dit neem net ‘n halfuur dan kan ek dit ‘n paar keer doen soos vir hierdie komende Kragdag op 2 Julie 2011 Ek hou van jou idee om die vuur van agter aan die gang te hou – ek sal die opening agter groter maak (dis nou net ‘n halwe baksteen groot) en dit ook doen Kom kuier op ons Kragdag Interessant en lekker!
Reply	Skoor	Mei 30, 2011 at 11:24 vm	Familie van oom Len en tannie Hester Verwoerd??
Stuur asb daai Ciabata resep dat ek dit kan plaas met alle eer aan jou en jou bakoond! Diamantvallei klink myle verwyder van die Boland se Wingerde waar ek my bevind, maar mens weet nooit, eendag is ek dalk in julle omgewing en kan ek die Kragdag bywoon. Klink interessant – is daar ‘n nuusbrief of webwerf daaroor??
Reply	Chris Schutte	Julie 7, 2011 at 7:35 nm	Ons het laasnaweek n skaapboudjie en ook n heel yster pampoen en n heerlik room en kaas broodjie in onse bakoond gemaak . Dit was – to die for – lekker . Het d hele dag in beslag geneem , wat dit nog lekkerder gemaak het !
Dit was sonder twyfel d lekkerste skaapboud ooit .
Die naweek is dit wildspotjie en n suurdeeg broodjie se beurt .
Reply	Hanlie Ebersohn	September 19, 2011 at 1:48 nm	Alida, Skoor en Chris.
Ek wil ook bitter graag ‘n bakoond bou? Kan julle help met meer spesifieke inligting?
Reply	Skoor	Oktober 14, 2011 at 11:51 vm	Chris, skaapboud en pampoen bly een van my mees nostalgiese lekkertes!!!
Hanlie, epos my by skoorbek@gmail.com dat ons kan begin bou.
Reply	Hanlie Ebersohn	Oktober 14, 2011 at 2:50 nm	Dankie, sal doen.
Reply	Charl Marais	November 15, 2011 at 1:02 nm	As julle wil bakoond bou, gaan kyk bietjie op die link, http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?p=958123#post958123
Nogal heelwat inligting daar.
Reply	Skoor	November 21, 2011 at 3:05 nm	Dankie Charl!
Reply	Ockie	Junie 8, 2012 at 10:17 vm	Goeiemore al die mense, ons is oppad Zambia toe om daar op die platteland te gaan sendingwerk doen. Daar is elektiesiteit maar nie baie betroubaar nie. Ons wil ‘n bakoond daar loop bou.
Het iemand dalk die afmetings of self ‘n mooi kieikie van ‘n outydse bakoond?
Reply	Charl Marais	Junie 8, 2012 at 10:44 vm	Ek het so rukkie terug ‘n plan gepos op 4X4 forum. Gaan na hierdie link toe. http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=76480&page=2 . Dis dalk raadsaam om sommer die hele “Thread” deur te werk. Daar is baie inligting vanaf tradisionele oond tot meer modern met goeie isolasie sodat meet hitte uit minder hout gekry kan word. Ek staan daar bekend as bladesmith.
Reply	Charl Marais	Junie 8, 2012 at 11:32 vm	Terwyl jy van sending praat, gaan kyk gou na http://www.crossforge.co.za/He%20+%204%20u.html en lees my storie. Jy kan dit copy en print as jy dit wil saam vat Zambie toe.
Voorspoed en seen met julle sending.
Reply	crossforge	Februarie 10, 2015 at 3:48 nm	I regularly seem to come across questions about building bake ovens. I have done a few bake ovens and pizza ovens the traditional way, and also with the use of some modern enhancements to improve performance, durability, heat-retention and fuel economy.
So here goes. Hope this helps everyone and answers all the questions. Anything unclear, you are welcome to ask questions. Hopefully with this you will be able to build your own oven.
Where to start. First find a door for your oven. Cast iron is probably best. Some second hand or antique shops often have doors. My oven has a union no 9 door which I found in a second hand shop in Swartruggens, North West. Most of the time your door will determine the size of your oven. At least one brick length wide around the door’s frame should be good (If you have a nice big door). You want to be able to fit 2 loaf tins next to each other with room to spare. If you have a large casserole that you do roasts in you want to be sure that will also fit.
There is always a temptation to make the oven big, but I would advise not to make it any bigger than you need. If you can fit about 6 loaf tins in there that should be big enough. With that size you will be able to cook roasts and all kinds of other meals in there as well, and I have rarely seen anyone bake more than 6 loaves of bread at a time. The reason I stress not going too big is simple. The bigger your oven, the more bricks you have. A bake oven bakes with heat retained in the bricks after the fire is removed. The more bricks you have, the more wood you need to burn to get all those bricks heated to the correct temperature. Smaller ovens are more economical and heats up faster saving some time.
Now that you know how wide your oven is, you need to add the width of two bricks (for insulation) and then another 4 to 6 cm (for plaster or whatever you intend to cover it with to make it weatherproof). This will be the total width which is how wide you need to build the base your oven will stand on. Do the same to calculate the length. The length of 3 loaf tins to fit inside plus the width of 2 bricks (front and back wall) + the length of 2 bricks and about 2 cm of mortar (for the chimney) +the width of another 2 bricks (for insulation) + 4 to 6 cm (for plaster/ finish) . A little extra length for the base is a good idea as it will save you having to cut bricks when you get to the front row of the oven to make it fit on the base. One brick length extra should do the trick.
Now you have the dimensions for your base. My Oven base is a wall built in a U shape with a reinforced concrete slab to cover it. It gives you a nice place to store your wood.
Start by digging a level foundation. About as deep as the length of a spade blade and the same width. Fill this with concrete, level it and cover it with plastic sheeting to prevent it from drying too quickly. From the second day it is a good idea to spray water on the foundation every day for about a week to keep it moist while curing. After about a week and a half you can build your wall on the foundation to the height you prefer you oven floor to be.
Build a double wall, but with the last two rows of bricks, just do the outer part of the wall. Then cut plywood to size and support it at the level of the inner bricks. Pour concrete to the level of the bottom of the first brick, lay reinforcing steel in a grid fashion on the concrete and then continue pouring concrete to about 3 cm from the level of the top brick. Treat this the same you did the foundation, and let it cure for about 3 weeks before you start building the oven.
If you want very good insulation a vermiculite layer under the floor is a good Idea, but it is not crucial to have it. You can put this on to the concrete base, about 2 days after the base was poured. This is done be mixing vermiculiite and cement at a ratio of 5 parts vermiculite to 1 part Portland cement (5:1) by volume. Thoroughly mix the vermiculite and Portland cement when they are still dry, then add water , a little at a time and mix until you reach an oatmeal consistency. If you take a fist full you should just be able to squeeze water from it. Put a 5 – 8 cm layer of this on the concrete and level it with a trowel. Do not compact it too much as this will destroy the insulation properties. Scrape it more or less level with the side of the trowel and then just float the trowel lightly over the surface to get it smooth. This also needs to be covered to keep the moisture in while curing. Vermiculite will retain a lot of moisture so just covering it for 2 weeks will be sufficient. You won’t need to spray it with water.
The first step in building the actual oven is the floor. Most building bricks today are made to be porous or are made with a lot of cavities which give them insulating properties. This is very good for building homes, but for your oven you do not want this. From here on all brick work needs to be done with “fire brick”. You are looking for solid bricks that have a lot of weight. Like those red clay bricks the old post offices and railway houses were built with. You may have to go to a brick yard yourself to find the correct bricks as your local building supply shop will probably not stock it. Corobrick is a good source, though a bit pricy.
To do the floor you will need clay. Easiest is to get clay yourself. You should be able to find clay along the banks of most rivers. This clay will normally contain some sand which is good as it will prevent shrinkage when it dries. If you can’t find clay this way you can buy clay from most pottery supply shops. Ask for clay with a high percentage of “crock”. If they don’t have, get refined clay and mix one part silica sand to 2 parts clay. (playpen sand works well.) You will need to mix this well. The best way is to put it on a plastic sheet and use your feet to trample the clay and sand till well mixed. If too dry to mix just add some water. You want the consistency of play dough. First wet the base and then put a layer of the clay (About 1 cm thick if you did the vermiculite insulation layer, or 3cm thick of you did not insulate with vermiculite) and lay the bricks for the floor on the wet clay to the same dimensions that the ovens walls will be built. Use a rubber mallet to level the bricks in the same way you would tile a floor.
(There should be no brick flooring where the insulation layer and plaster will go.)
After the clay has dried a little (about 4 hours) you can start building, laying the first row of bricks. Start from the back of the oven with the back wall or chimney section. Remember to leave some space for insulation and plaster. You may use normal building mix with portland cement but it is not very heat resistant. And will eventually fail after a number of years due to the heating and cooling down cycles which will deteriorate it. A better option is to mix your own modified Portland cement mortar, using fire clay, sand and lime.
The best way to go is to actually use proper refractory cement available from places like “Vereeniging refractories”. It is a bit more expensive but will last forever in a bake oven. 2 bags will probably be enough. Just remember to mix very small quantities at a time if you use refractory cement as it sets a lot faster than normal cement. It also sets harder and almost acts like a glue, tacking bricks together within a couple of minutes.
Continue adding layers of bricks, building the back wall into the shape and height you worked out right at the beginning around the door dimensions. This is the most difficult part of the oven as you will have to cut several bricks to obtain the dome shape you want.
Once you have finished this rear wall and chimney you use it as a template for the wooden support you will use to build the arches that will make up the rest of the oven. The wooden support needs to be smaller by the width of a brick all round in order for the bricks to line up with the outer edge of the back wall when placed against the wooden support. Then also cut a piece off the bottom of the wooden support, about the height of a brick. This is to enable you to remove the support after laying a row of bricks over it. It is easy to remove when it is supported on 2 bricks. You just pull the bricks from underneath the support, dropping it to the floor.
Once you have the support cut to the proper size, lay it flat and then pack bricks around it as you would when building the arch. Measure the angle of the gaps between the bricks and make some wooden wedges of the same angle. This will be put between the bricks when building the arch to keep them at the correct angle. You now finish building the upright parts of the wall to just below where the arch starts. At the same time, as you progress, build the door frame into the front wall. Make sure your wooden arch template will fit inside without touching the walls. If it does, cut a thin strip off each side till it fits.
Starting at the rear wall again, position the wooden template on two bricks and start stacking the bricks from both sides till they meet in the middle. Put one of the wooden wedges between each of the bricks to hold them at the correct angle. When you get to the top the gap between the top two bricks need to be closed with a piece of brick that has been cut to fit the gap perfectly. This is called a key stone. First fill the gaps between the bricks with refractory cement or whatever mortar you are using for building the oven. Leave the wedges in place and just fill the gaps around them. Once the cement has had a little time to set, remove the wedges, lightly tap the key stone into place and then remove the wedges. Drop the wooden template by removing the supporting bricks and move it forward to where the next arch is to be built. Prop it on the two bricks again and repeat the process to build the arch. Continue this process till the front wall is reached. Now go back and fill the holes where the wooden wedges were removed with mortar as well. Leave this to stand for 24 hours and then fill in the gaps in the front wall to close it up to the arch. You will have to cut bricks to shape to do this. Now mix up some more of the vermiculite insulation as described with the floor insulation. Pack this all round the oven to about a brick’s width. This should leave about 2 – 3 cm of the base still exposed which will be taken up by the plaster over.
The easiest way to apply the vermiculite mixture to the oven is by hand, wearing protective rubber gloves. Make it nice and smooth. Let this stand covered for about 3 – 5 days to harden, and then plaster the oven. Keep plaster covered and from the second day, wet it regularly to keep it moist while curing for at least a week. Let it dry for about a week. Curing your Oven
It is important at this point that you cure your oven slowly, by building a series of five increasingly larger fires, starting with a low temperature. If you begin building large fires in your oven right way, you will compromise your oven’s longevity and ability to cook well, and cause damage, including cracking.
After you have installed your oven, there is still a great deal of moisture in the mortars, hearth concrete, vermiculite, and the oven chamber and vent. High heat will cause this to form steam which can easily build up to pressures high enough to crack the structure of the oven and in extreme cases may even cause an explosion. The key is slow heating to give evaporating moisture a chance to migrate through the bricks and plaster and out of the oven. Before you start the curing process, let the complete oven sit for one week. Then, start a series of low and growing fires,
Day 1. Maintain a fire temperature of 300ºF throughout the day and as long as possible into the evening.
Day 2. Repeat at 350ºF.
Important Note. While it is difficult to maintain consistent, low temperature fires, it is critical for proper curing that you do not go above these temperatures during the first two days.
Day 3. Repeat at 400ºF.
Day 4. Repeat at 450ºF.
Day 5. Repeat at 500ºF.
Close the oven door every evening to preserve dryness and heat. I used a large coffee tin with a lot of holes punched in it to get the initial low temperature. Filled it with charcoal briquettes and controlled the temperature by restricting air flow using the oven door. Just add more briquettes to keep it going for a day. For the higher temperatures wood fire is the only way so you just have to keep checking and adding wood. It helps using large thick pieces of wood as it burns longer, and because of the high temperature in the oven they do burn fairly easily.
You need to finish this curing process before you add the final touches to your oven, like painting or tiling because the steam driven from the oven while curing it will cause paint to peel and tiles to fall off.
I do have some sketches in this article, but unfortunately it won’t copy here. You are welcome to mail me and I’ll forward the whole article to you with the sketches.
I hope this answers all the questions. If not, just ask.
Jammer dis in die rooi taal maar ek het dit vir ‘n klompie rooi mense geskryf.
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