Dagboek: Week 4 | Voetspore RSA
Ons is in die Lapalala Wildernis gebied. Dis die tuiste van die Wildernis skool waar duisende kinders in aanraking kom met die natuur. Maar dis ook ‘n wonderlike wildtuin.
Ons vertrek om te ry na ‘n plek waar ons gaan stap saam met Cobus. Op pad sien ons ‘n paar renosters, elkeen nog met sy volle horing. Deesdae is dit amper ‘n vreemde gesig.
Die stap was uitstekend. Dis al langs ‘n rivierloop. Dis ook goeie oefening vir ons wat maar baie ure agter die stuur van ‘n Cruiser sit. Na ‘n uur of twee nader ons Noka Lodge, ‘n nuwe lodge wat tans in die Lapalala gebied gebou word. Dis deel van ‘n nuwe inisiatief om meer geld in te samel om aan die skool en bewaring in die algemeen te spandeer.
Ons moet ‘n krans uitklim na die lodge. Dis harde werk. Op pad boontoe is daar heelwat rotskuns. Dit maak die klim die moeite werd.
Op die lodge se stoep ontmoet ons vir Ken Maud. Hy is ‘n baie suksesvolle sakeman wat gaan aftree het in Florida in Amerika. Maar die Waterberge het hom geroep, en vandag help hy om Waterberg Toerisme te bevorder.
Na ons besoek aan die pragtige nuwe lodge gaan wys Glenn Phillip, Parkhoof van Lapalala, vir ons iets besonders. ‘n Trop wilde honde is in ‘n boma. Dit is waarskynlik die laaste vry bewegende wilde honde in Afrika. Hulle het oor ‘n massiewe gebied gejag. Was al tot in Botswana. Dit het natuurlik die boere kwaad gemaak, want van hulle vee het in die slag gebly. Die honde se getalle het verminder sodat daar uiteindelik net twee, ‘n reun en ‘n teef, oor was. Dié is gevang en in die boma geplaas. Die trop het intussen uitgebrei tot nege honde, en tans is daar nog 11 kleintjies. Binnekort sal hulle weer vrygelaat word.
Ons is na een van die lodges wat reeds funksioneer in die reservaat. By Tintswalo, ‘n luukse lodge, eet ons middagete en gesels met Tanja en Dave Jacobs, bestuurders van die lodge. Dis ‘n nuwe ding in die wêreld – luukse lodges, grotendeels gemik op die buitelandse mark. In die maande wat voorlê sal ook hulle bietjie moet aanpas.
Op pad na ons slaapplek – nog ‘n drietal wit renosters. Dis wonderlik dat Lapalala nog nie moes begin met onthoorning nie. Weet nie hoe lank dit sal kan uithou nie.
Ons is terug met sononder by die Lookout waar ons oornag. Die son wat sak oor die wildernisgebied is skouspelagtig mooi. Nina probeer iets nuut vir aandete – Nachos sal voortaan deel bly van ‘n Voetspore spyskaart.
Net na sonop kom haal Hermann ons en neem ons op ‘n reis deur die wildernis gebied van die Lapalala Wilderness. Dis ‘n deel van die park met moeilike 4×4 paadjies. Dit dra min verkeer.
Onderweg kry ons ‘n olifant hindernis – ‘n boom wat oor die pad lê. Ons moet dié eers verwyder. Maar die roete bring ons by ‘n pragtige uitsig vanaf ‘n krans oor die Phalala rivier.
Ons loop ook ‘n leeu wyfie raak wat by ‘n watergat onder ‘n boom lê. Sy is maar lui en lusteloos. Sy doen wat leeus meeste tyd van die dag doen – net mooi niks.
Die middag kry ons ook die geleentheid om by die Lapalala hoofkantoor aan te gaan. Ons kan die internet op datum kry en e-pos boodskappe beantwoord. Ook aandag gee aan sosiale media.
Op die middag se wildbesigtigingsrit sien ons jagluiperds en buffels. Wild is volop.
Net voor die son sak is ons saam met Glenn en sy vrou Bridget op ‘n boot op die Lapalala dam. Daar is seekoeie, visarende, reuse visvangers, kormorante… ‘n uitstekende plek vir sundowners.
Ons is sommer vroeg op. Ons eerste besoek is aan Mashudu Makhokha, Hoof Uitvoerende Beampte van die Lapalala Wildernis Skool. Dis ‘n indrukwekkende plek waar duisende kinders oor die afgelope meer as twee dekades vertroud gemaak is met die wondere van die natuur. Mashudu en sy span doen baie goeie werk. Mense vertrou die inisiatief om toerisme te benut om vir opvoeding te betaal.
Ons groet al die personeel van Lapalala. Die besoek was leersaam, opbouend en inspirerend.
Op pad na Naboomspruit, vandag Mookgopong, ontmoet ons vir Richard Wadley, skrywer van Waterberg Echoes, ‘n 900 bladsy boek oor die Waterberge. Hy het die gebied deeglik nagevors en opgeteken.
Ons ry oor Nylstroom na Naboomspruit. Op die dorp ontmoet ons vir Mauritz Hansen, afgetrede skoolhoof van Hans Strydom Hoërskool op die dorp. Mauritz is ‘n kenner van die doen en late van Eugene Marais in die Waterberge.
Die eerste plek wat ons saam met Mauritz besoek, is waar daar tans tin gemyn word, maar waar Marais Burgers van die Berge geskryf het. Dit was na fyn waarneming van ‘n trop van meer as 300 bobbejane.
Mauritz vertel ons baie van Marais. Ook van sy verslawing en van sy voorliefde vir jong meisies. Maar ook van die feit dat hy ‘n uitstekende digter was en met Winternag die eerste gedig in Afrikaanse geskryf het.
Mauritz neem ons ook na Rietfontein. Dis waar Marais die langste gewoon het, en die tydperk verteenwoordig van die rolprent, Die Wonderwerker, wat deur Katinka Heyns gemaak is.
Ons groet Mauritz en reis na Langkloof, waar Anton en Marina Botes ons ontvang vir aandete. Die week in die Waterberge is ‘n vol week.
Ontbyt is by Anton en Marina. Hulle plek is pure plaas met honde en hoenders en eende… Ontbyt is pap en wors en eiers.
Dis met die Alma-pad wat ons reis in die rigting van Marakele. Dis met ‘n slegte pad, af teen die hange van die Waterberge.
By die Marakele Nasionale Park aangekom en ons ontmoet die Parkhoof. Soos hy sê – Marakele is ook Groot Vyf-gebied, en dis skaars ‘n klipgooi vanaf Johannesburg.
Johan Coetzer en sy vrou Simone is twee Ere Veldwagters van Nasionale Parke. Ons reis saam met hulle na die wildernis gebied van die park waar hulle twee seuns en sy swaer, Pierre, vir ons wag. So ook Tinyiko en Steven, twee veldwagters.
Die roete deur die park in is nie eenvoudig nie. Dis heel tyd lae bestek, of te wel donkie rat. Wild in die streek is skaars. Ons sien wel ‘n omgekrapte olifantbul en ‘n paar bokkies.
Die aand slaap ons onder die sterre na ‘n heerlike ete van hoender lewers en plat brood.
Kamp opslaan duur bietjie langer as gewoonlik. Ons is ses voertuie in die konvooi. Dis ons drie voertuie, Johan en Simone, Pierre en ook die veldwagters.
Kort na die vertrek is dit dadelik ernstige 4×4 terrein in lae strek. Ons moet mooi kyk om nie teen die klippe te skuur nie.
Teen 11 uur stop ons vir koffie. Die terrein is mooi, maar die wild is skaars. Ons sien net ‘n mooi troppie elande.
Net na koffie sien ons die spoor van ‘n swart renoster. Tinyiko vertel ons meer. Hoe skaars en hoe skugter die diere is, maar ook hoe gevaarlik. Tinyiko se veldkennis is uitstekend.
Middagete is langs ‘n pragtige waterstroom. Toe is dit terug, berg op.
Kort voor ons kampplek is daar baie slegte plekke in die pad. Johan en sy geselskap help met die herstel. Dis klippe aandra. Hy vertel ons ook sommer van die rol van die Ere Veldwagters. Hulle doen goeie werk om te help op plekke waar die personeel van SANParke nie kan uitkom nie. Dis nie net fondsinsameling nie. Dis ook soms klippe pak en paaie in stand hou.
Die aand kampeer ons naby die uitgang van die park. Streicher is op kook diens. Dis ‘n hoender- pesto-pasta. Heerlik. Op vanjaar se reis eet die Voetsporemanne selfs beter as laas jaar.
We are in the Lapalala Wilderness area. It is home to the Wilderness school which brings many children into contact with nature. Also an amazing game reserve.
We go to the location where Cobus takes us for a hike. On route we spot a few rhino still with horns in tact. Lately, an almost rare sighting .
The hike is wonderful. All along the course of a river. Also excellent exercise for us as we spend many hours behind the Cruiser wheel. After a few hours we reach Noka Lodge, a newly erected lodge in the Lapalala area. This is part of an initiative to raise money for the school as well as for conservation in general.
We have to do rock face climbing to reach the lodge. Wearisome. On route we see some rock art. Well worth the climb.
On the stoep of the lodge we meet the successful businessman Ken Maud who retired in Florida, America. He soon longed for the Waterberg and returned to assist with Waterberg Tourism.
After our visit to the lodge, Glenn Phillip – Park Warden at Lapalala, shows us something special. A pack of wild dogs in a boma. This is probably the last few free roaming wild dogs in Africa. They have hunted across a massive area including Botswana. It annoyed many farmers since they lost a lot of livestock. The wild dog numbers were depleted until only two remained – a male dog and a bitch. They were caught and put in the boma. Their numbers have currently increased to nine adult dogs and 11 pups. They will shortly be released into the wild.
We visit one of the operational lodges in the game reserve. At Tintswalo, a luxury lodge, we have lunch and chat to Tanja and Dave Jacobs, managers of the lodge. Quite a novelty in this area – luxury lodges catering mainly for foreigners. They will also have to make adjustments in the months to come.
On route to our overnight stay, we spot three more rhino. Quite amazing that Lapalala have not started with dehorning yet. How long will this last?
At sunset we return to Lookout where we shall overnight. The sunset in this wilderness area is spectacularly beautiful. Nina prepares Nachos for dinner – definitely a new addition to the Voetspore menu.
Shortly after sunrise Hermann takes us through the wilderness area of Lapalala Wilderness. This section of the park is traversed with difficult 4×4 routes. On route we encounter an elephant obstacle – a tree trunk across the road. We have to remove it. The route leads us to a cliff with a beautiful view of the Phalala river.
We also encounter a lioness lying under a tree next to a water hole. She appears lazy and listless. She does exactly what many other lions do this time of day – nothing.
In the afternoon we get a chance to visit the Lapalala head office. We are able to update our internet and e-mail messages. Also to attend to social media.
On our afternoon game drive, we spot leopard and buffalo. Wildlife is in abundance.
Just before sunset we accompany Glenn and his wife Bridget on a boat trip on the Lapalala dam. We see hippo, fish eagles, giant fish catchers, cormorants … an excellent place to have sundowners.
We rise early. Our first visit is to Mashudu Makhokha, Executive Official of the Lapalala Wilderness School. It is an impressive institution where thousands of children have been introduced to the wonders of nature for more than two decades. Mashudu and his team do wonderful work. People trust the initiative to utilise tourism to in exchange pay for education.
We are introduced to the staff of Lapalala. The visit is informative, beneficial and inspiring.
On route to Naboomspruit, today known as Mookgopong, we meet Richard Wadley, author of Waterberg Echoes, a 900-page book about the Waterberg. He did a thorough research of this area and recorded it.
We travel to Naboomspruit via Nylstroom. In town we meet Mauritz Hansen, retired principal of Hans Strydom High School. Mauritz is an expert on the life and doings of the late Eugene Marais of the Waterberg.
Mauritz takes us to a place that Marais mentions in his book Burgers van die Berge, where currently tin is ored. On route we closely observe a troop of 300 baboons.
Mauritz tells us a lot about Marais. About his addiction and his preference of young girls… Also the fact that he was an excellent poet and wrote Winternag , the first Afrikaans poem.
Mauritz also takes us to Rietfontein. Marais resided here the longest, and the period is represented in the film, Die Wonderwerker, produced by Katinka Heyns.
We say our goodbyes to Mauritz and travel to Langkloof, where we meet Anton and Marina Botes for supper. We had a busy week in the Waterberg.
Anton and Marina serve porridge, sausage and eggs for breakfast. Their place is like a proper farmyard with roaming dogs, chickens and ducks.
We travel with the Alma-road in the direction of Marakele. It is a bad road descending along the cliffs of the Waterberg.
At the Marakele National Park we are introduced to the Park Warden. Like he says – Marakele is Big Five area and it is only a stone’s throw from Johannesburg.
Johan Coetzer and his wife Simone are Honorary Rangers of National Parks. They take us to the wilderness area of the park where their two sons and his brother-in-law, Pierre wait for us. Also, two game rangers Tinyiko and Steven.
The route through the park is not an easy one. We drive in low range or donkey gear the whole time. Wildlife is scarce in this area. We however spot a moody elephant bull and a few buck.
That night we sleep under the stars after a delicious meal of chicken livers and flat bread.
Packing up the campsite takes longer than usual. There are six vehicles in the convoy. Our three vehicles plus Johan and Simone, Pierre and the three game rangers.
Shortly after departing we encounter serious 4×4 terrain in low range. You have to be extra careful not to score the vehicles against the rocks.
At 11 o’clock we stop to have coffee. The terrain is beautiful, but wildlife is scarce. We do spot a beautiful herd of eland.
After coffee we track a black rhino. Tinyiko tells us more. The more shy and timid the animal, the more dangerous. Tinyiko’s knowledge of the veldt is outstanding.
Lunch is next to a water stream. We then return back up the mountain.
Close to our camping spot is a bad stretch of road. Johan and his team assist us in fetching rocks to make is accessible. He also informs us of the role of the honorary rangers. They do wonderful work in assisting whereever SANParks fall short. It is not only to raise funds but to sometimes carry rocks and maintain the roads.
That evening we set up camp close to the gate exit. Streicher’s turn to cook. We have chicken-pesto-pasta. Delicious. The meals on this year’s journey is even better than the previous one.
Dagboek: Week 3 Dagboek: Week 5