Jeogori
The jeogori ( ) is a basic upper garment of the hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, which has been worn by both men and women. Men usually wear the jeogori with a "baji" or pants while women wear the jeogori with "chima", or skirts. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body. Etymology. The "jeogori" has been worn since ancient times and went by a variety of names such as "yu" (유, 襦), "boksam" (복삼, 複杉), and "uihae" (위해, 尉解) in the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC – 668 AD). Although it is unknown when the term "jeogori  began to be used to refer the garment, it is assumed to have appeared in the late Goryeo period around King Chungnyeol's reign. The first historical document to mention the jeogori" is "Cheongjeonui" (천전의, ) for Queen Wongyeong (원경왕후), which was a funeral ceremony for carrying the coffin out of the palace. The document written in 1420 during the second reign of Sejong the Great records "jeokgori" () and "danjeokgori" (). However, it is not clear whether the record is a hanja (Chinese character) transliteration of a Korean word or Mongolian influence. Before the Goryeo period, such an upper garment was referred  to as "uihae" (위해, 尉解) in Silla. As the uihae was a transliteration of the Silla language, dialect forms such as "uti" and "uchi" still remain to present. Composition. Traditionally, a Jeogori is made out of leather, woolen fabrics, silk, hemp or ramie. Modern Korean designers sometimes use other materials such as lace. The basic form of a "Jeogori" consists of "gil", "git", "dongjeong", "goreum" and sleeves "somae". "Gil" (길) is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and "git" (깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. "Dongjeong" (동정) is a removable  white collar placed over the end of the "git" and is generally squared off. The "goreum" (고름) are coat strings attached to the breast part to tie the "jeogori". Women's "jeogori" may have "kkeutdong" (끝동), a different colored cuff placed on the end of the sleeves. The form of "jeogri" has been changed as time goes by. There are several types of "jeogori" according to fabric, sewing technique, and shape. History. The earliest known depictions of the jeogori are on Goguryeo murals. The original silhouette for Hanbok Jeogori shared similarities with the clothing of the ancient nomadic people of  Eurasia due to the cultural exchanges that ancient Koreans had with the Scythians. The ancient jeogori had an open form, a collar which crossed to the left, narrow sleeves, and was hip-length which were similar features found in the Scythian clothing-style. Some ancient jeogori also had a front central closure similar to a kaftan; this form of jeogori with a central closure is mostly found during the Goguryeo period and was worn by people of lower status. The jeogori initially closed with the front, central closure; it then changed to left closure before changing again to right closure . The change in collars direction from right-to-left (i.e. left closure) to left-over-right (i.e. right closure), along with the use of wide sleeves, which are found in many jackets and coats were due ancient Chinese influences; these Chinese influences on the jeogori are reflected and depicted in Goguryeo paintings. The closure of the jeogori on the right side is an imitation of the Chinese jackets. The closure to the right became an accepted standard since the sixth century AD. The Jeogori of the Ruling class of Silla is influenced from Chinese Tang influence in the Silla Dynasty  by Kim Chun-Chu (648 But the most commoners wore only a style of indigenous Jeogori distinct from that of the Ruling class of Silla. Previously in Korea, jackets were worn over bottom garments. During the Koryo Period (918–1392), jeogori became shorter, with slimmer sleeves. In the Joseon Period, jeogori lengths and style fluctuated depending on current fashion and social standing. In the 16th century, women's jeogori were long, wide, and covered the waist. The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened. A heoritti (허리띠) or jorinmal (졸잇말) was worn to cover the chest. This was to fit in  style with a large wig and skirt. Modern styles. In contemporary Korea, the sumptuary laws within different social classes were lifted and colors, decorations, and fabrics that were exclusive to the upper classes were open to all classes. This allowed for the growth of diverse traditional design elements in hanbok styles. However, in the 20th and 21st centuries, traditional Korean clothing has not been worn every day by most people. Hanbok became more reserved for special events, such as ceremonial or bridal wear, which carries onto current time. During their own engagement celebrations, women may wear pink jeogori. After they  are married, women may wear indigo jeogori. Additionally, modern silhouettes are commonly slimmer and more simplified then historical styles.