Molenbeek-Saint-Jean
' (French, ) or ' (Dutch, ), often simply called Molenbeek, is one of the 19 municipalities of the Brussels-Capital Region, Belgium. Located in the western part of the region, it is bordered by the City of Brussels, from which it is separated by the Brussels–Charleroi Canal, as well as by the municipalities of Anderlecht, Berchem-Sainte-Agathe, Dilbeek, Jette and Koekelberg. The Molenbeek brook, from which it takes its name, flows through the municipality. In common with all of Brussels' municipalities, it is legally bilingual (French–Dutch). From its origins in the Middle Ages until the 18th century , Molenbeek was a rural village on the edge of Brussels, but around the turn of the 19th century, it experienced major growth brought on by a boom in commerce and manufacturing during the Industrial Revolution. Its prosperity declined after the Second World War, owing to deindustrialisation, leading to extensive investment and regeneration. Knowing a strong movement of immigration, mainly Moroccan, from the 1950s and 1960s, Molenbeek became increasingly multicultural with a minority Muslim population. In the early 21st century, it gained international attention as the base of Islamist terrorists who carried out attacks in both Paris and Brussels. Nowadays, it  is a mostly residential municipality consisting of several historically and architecturally distinct districts. , the municipality had a population of 97,979 inhabitants. The total area is , which gives a population density of , twice the average of Brussels. Its upper area is greener and less densely populated. Toponymy. Etymology. The name "Molenbeek" derives from two Dutch words: ', meaning "mill", and ', meaning "brook"; and could be literally translated as "Millbrook" in English. It is a very common name for brooks in the Netherlands and Belgium, such as the Molenbeek (Erpe-Mere Bovenschelde), as well as the Molenbeek-Ter Erpenbeek, both in the Denderstreek , Belgium. Although first applied to the brook that ran through the village, the name "Molenbeek" (originally spelled "Molembecca") eventually came to be used to designate the village itself, around the year 985. The suffix in French or in Dutch, meaning "Saint John", refers to the parish's patron saint; Saint John the Baptist, though it is seldom used in everyday speech, today's inhabitants—whether French or Dutch speaking—usually shortening the name to simply "Molenbeek". Pronunciation. In French, is pronounced (the "-beek" is pronounced with a long "a", like "bake" in English), and in Dutch, is pronounced . Inhabitants of  Molenbeek are known in French as (pronounced ) and in Dutch as (pronounced ). In France, the pronunciations ("-bek" with a short "e", like "beck" in English) and (for ) are often heard, but are rather rare in Belgium. The dialectal forms "Muilebeik" and "Meulebeik" are still used by older adults of Belgian ancestry, whilst the abbreviations "Molen" and "Molem" are common among younger speakers. History. Rural beginnings. As early as the 9th century, Molenbeek was the site of a church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. The parish boundaries of St. John's Church were much greater than today, reaching as far  as the river Senne, and from the end of the 12th century, included a chapel dedicated to Saint Catherine. This chapel was split off from the rest of the parish following the construction of Brussels' city walls and gradually became the current Church of St. Catherine in the / neighbourhood of Brussels. The first documented mention of Molenbeek was made on 9 April 1174 in a papal bull by Pope Alexander III listing the property of the chapter of the Collegiate Church of St. Michael and St. Gudula (now a cathedral) in Brussels, which included St. John's Church, as well  as other property. The Brussels Beguinage, founded before 1247 outside the city walls, also depended on Molenbeek. In the early Middle Ages, Molenbeek was known for its miraculous spring of Saint Gertrude of Nivelles, the mythical founder of Nivelles Abbey, which attracted thousands of pilgrims. According to legend, she visited Molenbeek and offered the land on which the village's first church was built, and allegedly caused this sacred spring to spur out by ramming her abbess's crosier into the ground near the church. Later, the tradition of a special pilgrimage for patients suffering from epilepsy developed around St.  John's Church. On St. John's Day (24 June), a dancing procession took place, in which epileptics could be freed from their illness for a year if they crossed a bridge over the Molenbeek brook towards the church without their feet touching the ground. A painting by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, dating from 1592, illustrates this procession. Molenbeek was made part of Brussels in the 13th century. As a result, the agricultural village lost a lot of its land to its more powerful neighbour. In addition, St. John's Church was dismantled in 1578 during the Calvinist Republic of  Brussels, which lasted from 1577 to 1585, leading to further decline, though it was later rebuilt on the same spot. The town's aspect remained mostly rural until the 18th century. Industrialisation. At the end of the 18th century, the Industrial Revolution brought prosperity back to Molenbeek through commerce and manufacturing. In 1785, the town regained its status as an independent municipality. Around that time, Molenbeek experienced its first wave of urbanisation with the constructions of streets in the neighbourhoods to the immediate west of the City of Brussels, such as the /, the /, the /, and the current /. During the first  quarter of the 19th century, several hundred workers were employed in Molenbeek's chemical and textile industries. In total, there were fifty companies in Molenbeek in 1829. The opening of the Brussels–Charleroi Canal in 1832 greatly increased the traffic of coal and thus the mechanisation of industry, which led to the development of foundries, engineering and metalworking companies in the municipality. Attracted by the industrial opportunities, many workers moved in, first from the other Belgian provinces (mainly rural residents from Flanders) and France, then from Southern European, and more recently from Eastern European and African countries. The growth of  the community continued unabated throughout the 19th century, leading to cramped living conditions, especially near the canal. In that period, Molenbeek was dubbed the "Little Manchester" (, ) or the "Belgian Manchester" (, ), in reference to the Northern English city that led the history of industrialisation. On 5 May 1835, Molenbeek was the departure site of the first passenger train in continental Europe. At the end of the 19th century, Brussels reintegrated the canal area within its new port, which was thus lost to Molenbeek. 20th century. Until the early 20th century, Molenbeek was a booming suburb which attracted a large working-class  population. Remarkable new urban developments and garden cities such as the Cité Diongre were built at the beginning of the century to house the influx of newcomers. The Church of St. John the Baptist was also rebuilt between 1930 and 1932 in Art Deco style to accommodate this growing populace. The industrial decline, however, which had already started before World War I, accelerated after the Great Depression and World War II. Following the industrial decline after the war, the old districts bordering the City of Brussels began to decrease in population. Much of the original Belgian working-class population, when  its financial means allowed it, left the lower Molenbeek for Brussels' newly developing suburbs. In this lower part of the town, new immigrant populations moved in, leading to the present-day urban fabric. The depopulation was not addressed until the 1960s through the construction of new residential areas in the then-rural west of the municipality. In the 1990s, this expansion was halted, leaving some woods and meadows in Molenbeek, such as the semi-natural site of the Scheutbos. Where Molenbeek was once a centre of intense industrial activity, concentrated around the canal and the railway, most of those industries  have disappeared to make way for large-scale urban renewal following the modernist Athens Charter, such as the Tour L'Écluse along the / in the upper town and the Tour Brunfaut near the canal. In addition, clearance work for the extension of the metro in the 1970s and 1980s led to further destruction. In spite of this, Molenbeek has maintained its character to this day. This industrial past is still remembered in Brussels' Museum of Industry and Labour, a museum of social and industrial history built on the site of the former foundry of the "Compagnie des Bronzes de Bruxelles". 21st  century. In some areas of Molenbeek, the ensuing poverty left its mark on the urban landscape and scarred the social life of the community, leading to rising crime rates and pervading cultural intolerance. Various local revitalisation programmes are currently under way, aiming at relieving the most impoverished districts of the municipality. Currently, the local economy is renewing itself, but it is "dominated" by the administrative sector. Alongside large companies such as KBC Bank and the distribution company Delhaize, there are administrations such as that of the Ministry of the French Community and numerous businesses. Attempts at revitalising the municipality have , however, not always been successful. In June 2011, the multinational company BBDO, citing over 150 attacks on their staff by locals, posted an open letter to then-mayor Philippe Moureaux, announcing its withdrawal from the municipality. As a result, serious questions were raised about governance, security and the administration of Moureaux. Following a general decrease in crime, the company finally decided to remain in Molenbeek. Terrorism. According to "Le Monde", the assassins who killed anti-Taliban commander Ahmed Shah Massoud both came from Molenbeek. Hassan el-Haski, one of the 2004 Madrid terror bombers, came from Molenbeek. The perpetrator of  the Jewish Museum of Belgium shooting, Mehdi Nemmouche, lived in Molenbeek for a time. Ayoub El Khazzani, the perpetrator of the 2015 Thalys train attack, stayed with his sister in Molenbeek. French police believe the weapons used in the Porte de Vincennes siege two days after the "Charlie Hebdo" shooting were sourced from Molenbeek. The bombers of the November 2015 Paris attacks were also traced to Molenbeek; during the Molenbeek capture of Salah Abdeslam, an accomplice of the Paris bombers, protesters "threw stones and bottles at police and press during the arrest", stated the then-Interior Minister of Belgium, Jan  Jambon. Oussama Zariouh, the bomber of Brussels Central Station in June 2017, lived in Molenbeek. November 2015 Paris attacks. At least four of the terrorists in the November 2015 Paris attacks—the brothers Brahim and Salah Abdeslam, alleged accomplice Mohamed Abrini, and the alleged mastermind Abdelhamid Abaaoud—grew up and lived in Molenbeek. According to former French President François Hollande, that was also where they organised the attacks. On 18 March 2016, Salah Abdeslam, a suspected accomplice in those attacks, was captured in two anti-terrorist raids in Molenbeek that killed another suspect and injured two others. At least one  other suspect remains at large. Ibrahim (born 9 October 1986 in Brussels) was involved in the attempted robbery of a currency exchange office in January 2010, where he shot at police with a Kalashnikov rifle. The then-mayor of Brussels, Freddy Thielemans, and the then-mayor of Molenbeek, Philippe Moureaux, described the shooting as a """" (a small daily news item) and "normal in a large city", causing controversy. Police investigation. Since several of the attackers in the Brussels and Paris terrorist attacks had connections to the area, Belgian police started door-to-door checks in which a quarter of Molenbeek 's inhabitants were investigated, a total of 22,668. This operation resulted in that of the 1,600 organisations investigated, 102 were found to be involved with crime and a further 52 were involved with terrorism. 72 individuals were found to have a terrorist connection and were subject to future surveillance. Geography. Location. Molenbeek is located in the north-central part of Belgium, about from the Belgian coast and about from Belgium's southern tip. It is located in the heartland of the Brabantian Plateau, about south of Antwerp (Flanders), and north of Charleroi (Wallonia). It is the third westernmost municipality in  the Brussels-Capital Region after Anderlecht and Berchem-Sainte-Agathe and is an important crossing point for the Brussels–Charleroi Canal, which borders the municipality to the east. With an area of , it is also a relatively small municipality in the region, ranking eleventh out of nineteen. It is bordered by the Brussels municipalities of Anderlecht, Berchem-Sainte-Agathe, Jette and Koekelberg, as well as the Flemish municipality of Dilbeek. Climate. Molenbeek, in common with the rest of Brussels, experiences an oceanic climate (Köppen: "Cfb") with warm summers and cool winters.<ref name="Brussels,+Brussels+Capital,+Belgium&units=|title=Brussels, Belgium Climate Classification Köppen (Weatherbase)|website= Weatherbase|access-date=2019-07-02 </ref"></ref> Proximity to coastal areas influences the area's climate by sending marine air masses from the Atlantic Ocean. Nearby wetlands also ensure a maritime temperate climate. On average (based on measurements in the period 1981–2010), there are approximately 135 days of rain per year in the region. Snowfall is infrequent, averaging 24 days per year. It also often experiences violent thunderstorms in summer months. The Royal Meteorological Institute of Belgium (IRM/KMI) is located in Uccle, in the south of Brussels. The meteorological records which are carried out there are similar to those  which could be carried out in Molenbeek. Districts. There are two distinct areas in Molenbeek; a lower area and an upper area. The lower area, next to the canal, consists of working-class, predominantly migrant, communities, mostly of Moroccan (mainly Riffian and Berber) descent, with many being second- and third-generation. The upper area, close to the Greater Ring (Brussels' second ring road), features newer construction and is mostly middle-class and residential. The territory of Molenbeek is very heterogeneous and is characterised by a mixture of larger districts including smaller residential and (formerly) industrial neighbourhoods. The area along the  canal is currently experiencing a large revitalisation programme, as part of the of the Brussels-Capital Region. Lower Molenbeek. Historical centre. The historical centre of Molenbeek is the municipality's central district. It developed during the Industrial Revolution along the Brussels–Charleroi Canal and is currently in a fragile social and economic situation due to the decline of its economy and the poor quality of some of its housing. The Municipal Hall of Molenbeek is located on the /, at the heart of this district. Duchesse (Quatre-vents). Located to the south of the historical centre of Molenbeek, this district is  centred on the /. The square was created in 1847 on the grounds of the "Hospices de Bruxelles", of which only the neoclassical facade remains. The hospice buildings now house a primary school (municipal school no. 5). In 1869, the Church of St. Barbara was erected there for the Catholic worship of the new parish. The /, the /, the /, the / and the / also end there. Heyvaert. Located in the south-east of Molenbeek, near the Abattoirs of Anderlecht (the main slaughterhouse in Brussels) and along the Charleroi canal, it is part of the larger / district and is bounded by the /, the Rue  de Birmingham, the Place de la Duchesse de Brabant, the Rue Isidoor Teirlinck, the /, and the / (formerly the /, because of its proximity to the canal lock; meaning "lock" in French). Maritime. Located in the north of Molenbeek, the Maritime district was born, around 1900, from the implementation of the port of Brussels and the () freight station on the Tour & Taxis site. A number of customs agencies and handling activities mingled with homes have given the neighbourhood a diverse character. The residents, historically made up of workers, as well as of the small and large bourgeoisie, were also from the outset  of great diversity. Upper Molenbeek. Karreveld. Located in the north of the upper part of Molenbeek, Karreveld Park and its surrounding district are named after the former domain of the Karreveld Castle, which now covers . Today, it is a mostly residential neighbourhood between the /, the / and the railroad. Korenbeek. Located in the north-east of Molenbeek, Korenbeek is home to Molenbeek Cemetery between the Chaussée de Gand and the /. This cemetery was inaugurated on 16 August 1864 to replace the old parish cemetery around the Church of St. John the Baptist, which had become too small, and whose last remains  were cleared in 1932. Machtens (Marie-José). Located in the upper part of Molenbeek, this district is located in the valley of the Maalbeek (or Molenbeek) that gave the municipality its name. Originally, the area was part of the former Oostendaal estate. In 1920, it was purchased by the municipality and partly turned into two parks; Albert Park and Marie-José Park, in the triangle formed by the /, the / and the /. They were designed by the architect and urban planner Louis Van der Swaelmen, and are named after King Albert I and his daughter, Princess Marie-José, the last Queen  of Italy. Osseghem/Ossegem. / is centrally located in the upper part of Molenbeek, west of the municipality's historical centre. The neighbourhood used to be a rural hamlet. The name is of Germanic origin and is composed of "Odso" + "-inga" + "gem", meaning "residence of the people of Odso". An old country road, today's /, which led to the Chaussée de Gand near the current Osseghem/Ossegem metro station, connected the hamlet to Molenbeek and Brussels. Scheutbos (Mettewie). Located in the extreme west of Molenbeek, near the Boulevard Louis Mettewie, the Scheutbos (or Scheutbosch) is the municipality's remaining  green area, home to the likewise named semi-natural site of the Scheutbos. Main sights. Molenbeek-Saint-Jean has a rich cultural and architectural heritage. Some of the main points of interest include: Moreover, several rundown industrial buildings have been renovated and converted into prime real estate and other community functions. Examples include: Demographics. Historical population. Historically, the population of Molenbeek was quite low. The municipality counted fewer than 2,000 inhabitants at the beginning of the 19th century. However, following the Industrial Revolution, the population underwent a remarkable growth, peaking at 72,783 in 1910. From then, it began to decrease  slightly during the first half of the 20th century to a low of 63,528 in 1961, before increasing again rapidly in recent years. , the population was 97,979. The area is , making the density . The population is relatively young—the average age is 35 years—with nearly 29% under 18 years old, and fewer than 12% over 65. This population, while already impoverished and overcrowded, has further increased by 24.5% in the last decade. Foreign population. The population has been described as "mainly Muslim" in the media; however, actual figures are estimated to range between 25% and 40%, depending on the  catchment area. Belgium does not collect statistics by ethnic background or religious beliefs, so exact figures are unknown. An October, 2020 news story reports thus "Molenbeek, which has a large Muslim population, has become notorious as a radical hotbed.". , there is one main minority group in Molenbeek, Belgian Moroccans. That year, Françoise Schepmans, then-mayor of Molenbeek, stated that the lack of diversity in the foreign population of Molenbeek and the fact they are all clustered in the same area is a problem. Nearly 40% of young people in Molenbeek are unemployed. The municipality lies in a semi-circle of  neighbourhoods in Brussels often referred to as the "poor croissant". Migrant communities in Molenbeek with over 1,000 people as of 1 January 2020: Politics. Molenbeek is governed by an elected municipal council and an executive college of the mayor and aldermen. The longtime mayor from 1992 to 2012 was Philippe Moureaux (PS). Following the Belgian local elections, 2012, an alternative majority was formed headed by then-mayor Françoise Schepmans (MR) and consisting of MR (15 seats), CDH-CD&V (6 seats) and Ecolo-Groen (4 seats). The Socialist Party (16 seats) became the opposition next to the Workers' Party of Belgium  (PTB), Democratic Federalist Independent (DéFI), the ISLAM party and the New Flemish Alliance (N-VA), each having one seat. The 2018 local elections saw PS return to the majority, with a coalition between the aforementioned and MR being agreed upon. is the current mayor. Mayors. Historical list of mayors or burgomasters of Molenbeek: Sports. As in the rest of Brussels, sport in Molenbeek is under the responsibility of the Communities. The (ADEPS) is responsible for recognising the various French-speaking sports federations. Its Dutch-speaking counterpart is (formerly called BLOSO). Football. Molenbeek's historical football club, Racing White Daring Molenbeek , often referred to as RWDM, was very popular until its dissolution in 2002. Its successor, R.W.D.M. Brussels F.C., used to play in the Belgian first division. It folded at the end of 2012–13 as a member of the Belgian Second Division. Since 2015, its reincarnation, RWDM47, is back playing in the fourth division. The club's home stadium is the Edmond Machtens Stadium. Other sports. The municipality is home to the Royal Daring Hockey Club, a field hockey club. Education. Most of Molenbeek pupils between the ages of 3 and 18 go to schools organised by the French-speaking Community  or the Flemish Community. Primary education. There are 17 French-language and six Dutch-language primary schools in Molenbeek. Transportation. Road network. The / in the north of Molenbeek is part of a monumental east–west axis, at the end of which is the National Basilica of the Sacred Heart in Koekelberg. Some other main roads that cross the municipality are the /, the / and the / running east–west, as well as the / running north–south. Public transport. Molenbeek is served by Brussels' metro lines 1, 2, 5 and 6, with Comte de Flandre/Graaf van Vlaanderen, Étangs Noirs/Zwarte Vijvers, Osseghem /Ossegem, Belgica, Beekkant, Gare de l'Ouest/Weststation (Brussels-West Station), and Ribaucourt stations. Brussels-West and Beekkant are connected to all the metro lines and are multimodal transport hubs in western Brussels. The former will also gain importance in the framework of the Brussels Regional Express Network (RER/GEN)'s development, which will connect the capital and surrounding towns. Additionally, a comprehensive bus and tram service links Molenbeek to other parts of the region. The municipality also has a number Villo! public bicycle stations on its territory. Waterways. Molenbeek is on the route of the second largest axis of the  Belgian network of inland waterways, that is the Antwerp–Brussels–Charleroi axis via the maritime Scheldt, the Maritime Canal and the Brussels–Charleroi Canal. Parks and green spaces. Green spaces in the municipality include: International relations. Twin towns and sister cities. Molenbeek is twinned with: