1982 Toyota land cruiser fj60 - Page 3
2020/04/18, 02:31 PM #41
2020/04/18, 03:11 PM #42
Iets wat pla is die transfer se shift lever (wat die transfer na full time 2A of AV laat lyk) en die eerste post se foto wat front hub locks wys. Is die hub locks heel tyd gelock? Wat gebeur as hulle unlock word? Is daar 'n manier om die center diff (in transfer case) te lock, elektries miskien met knoppie (post 27 foto 4 wys klomp drade aan agterkant)?
Last edited by Mike N; 2020/04/18 at 03:13 PM.
2020/04/18, 05:44 PM #43
Ek het die cruiser nou eers vir 2 weke, so ek het nog glad nie tyd gehad om met hom te speel nie. Daar is n knoppie op die dashbord wat ek nie weet waarvoor dit is nie. Dit kan dalk vir die transfer case wees.
Ek het nog glad nie geëksperimenteer met die front hubs nie.
Last edited by 0837238277; 2020/04/18 at 05:57 PM.
2020/04/18, 05:56 PM #44
Hier is die motor. Ek wil in die week die kar bietjie ordentlik was, dan sal ek 'n hele klomp fotos van alle kante binne en buite neem.
Voor ek hom gekry het het hy omtrent 8 maande net gestaan.
Net vir ingeval iemand dalk sou belang stel hier is 'n grafiek van die motor se kw en torque kurwe. Alhoewel ek nie met sekerheid kan sê dis presies hoe dit kyk nie want ek weet nie uit watter kar dit kom nie behoort daai nogsteeds 'n goeie id te gee van wat dit behoort te wees.
2020/04/19, 05:38 AM #45
Die enigste manier wat jy gaan sien wat jou 460 is en watter krag hy maak is casting no`s.
Daar was heads met verskillende grootes combustion chambers. Enjins voor 1972 het op 10.5 kompressie ratio geloop en
277kw en 660 nm gemaak. Na 72 is die kompressie verlaag na 8.5 en dit het krag gemaak soos in jou grafiek.
Jy het ook open en close combustion chamber head gekry. Die 8.5 tot 1 Heads was open chamber en ping met die geringste modifikasie vir meer kompressie.
Soos ek sê casting no`s sal die storie vertel. Heads sin is onder tappit cover. Blok sin bo starter.
2020/04/21, 04:38 PM #46
Hier is nog 'n paar fotos wat ek vandag geneem het.
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2020/04/22, 10:03 AM #47
Ek glo daai Cruiser sal n trok sleep soos in nou awesome ek hou die draad dop
2020/04/22, 10:19 AM #48
I wouldn't change a thing on that wagon. I'd just do any cosmetics that irritate and leave the rest as it is until I was sure there was a serious need for a change.
So a sexy bumper and some decent rock sliders is fine.
New rubber boot for the t-case lever.
Label the switches once you know what is what.
Tidy up the wiring so that the smoke doesn't come out.
A PROPER DONALDSON type cyclonic air filter!
And that brake pedal is properly FUGLY.
And I'm not sure I like that chromed auto box lever tunnel.
2020/04/22, 08:22 PM #49
That 460 is a beast of a motor.
When in the States back then, this was Fords biggest gas/petrol motor. Chevys 454 couldnt come close when towing.
Neither with the diesels.
2020/04/23, 06:07 AM #50
Just have a look at the Holley fuel pressure regulator seems it does not have a return line to the tank.
2020/04/23, 10:05 AM #51
With time I'll address all the small details.
I want to do away with all things chrome I'll attach a photo of the general idea I'm heading towards
This photo comes of the Toyota USA site. I want that color (for now until I change my mind haha) and then all my add on's like bumpers rock sliders mirrors grills etc will be black. And the same for the interior.
I have a guy that will do my body for a good price, my only consern is the rust on the chassis. Where can I get somebody to do the chassis for an affordable price?
2020/04/23, 10:14 AM #52
Ek sal iemand moet kry om vir my daarna te kyk, en dan by hom leer. Ek geniet dit om self aan die karre te werk maar ek het nog baie om te leer.
2020/04/23, 10:15 AM #53
If you do that color in matt with Raptor it will look great and take a beating.
2020/04/23, 10:34 AM #54
chassis repair means a body off operation, you can't properly repair a chassis with large scale rust effectively without having access to the chassis rails from all sides
also, chassis repairs on large sections should be with consideration of the load and stress areas and you'd need to gusset and add metal in certain cases
if it is just surface rust, then you can strip that off with an acid wash and then a rust converting undercoat should be applied, and I would also inject fish oil or lanolin or waxoil into the chassis cavities where appropriate and where present (not sure if the LC60 had a closed chassis rail all the way?)
2020/04/23, 10:59 AM #55
As far as I can see it looks like surface rust only. Can that be done with the body on, or must it be removed for that as well.? Wat is a rust converter?
2020/04/23, 11:03 AM #56
Where can I find this raptor kit? I would like to do my bumpers grills sliders and that kind off stuff with the raptor in black.
2020/04/23, 11:07 AM #57
rust is oxidised Ferrous metal, the rust converters use a chemical process to convert the oxidised layer to a stable primer layer
your local hardware or paint store will have it
this can easily be done with the body on and with a brush, roller or even a spray gun
I've painted farm droppers and poles with that stuff and no further rust for a long time.
2020/04/23, 11:25 AM #58
Is dit so 'n silwer verf? Ek het dit al gesien waar geroeste hekke en droppers geverf is, ek het gewonder hoe werk dit.
Kan mens dan oor dit verf met gewone swart of daai Raptor coating of kort dit eers 'n primêr?
2020/04/23, 11:35 AM #59
dis gewoonlik swart maar ek reken jy kan ook rooi en silwer ook kry
I've used these previously:
2020/04/23, 12:38 PM #60
Oke nee ek het aan iets anders gedink. Ek gan beslis daai manier probeer.