Naboom2Germany - Lodie se toerdagboek: 2007
2008 ! !
n Baie geseende en voorspoedige nuwe jaar is my wens vir een en elkeen van julle! My wish for you is a blessed and prosperous new year!
Posted by Lodie at 7:21 PM No comments:
Om die dorp is etlike mere en groen heuwels.
Around the town are a few lakes and rolling green hills.
Posted by Lodie at 12:12 PM 1 comment:
Rote Hohl 5
Hier woon my vriende Rosi en Günther.
This is where my friends Rosi and Günther live.
Gedurende die somer.
Die kerk naby hulle in die winter.
The church close to them during winter.
Die kerk in die somer.
The church during summer time.
Posted by Lodie at 12:06 PM No comments:
Ek wil julle so 'n paar foto's wys van Langenselbold, die dorp waar my motorfietstoer in Junie 2008 gaan eindig. Op hierdie twee somer foto's is die kasteel wat op die foto van gister so vol sneeu was.
I want to show you some photographs of Langenselbold, the town (it is bigger than a normal town) in Germany where my motorcycle tour is going to end during June 2008. On these two photographs (summer) is the castle in Langenselbold. On the photograph of yesterday it is snow-covered.
Posted by Lodie at 11:58 AM No comments:
The town where my tour is going to end next year
Groete uit Duitsland!
Posted by Lodie at 7:30 PM No comments:
Aan al my vriende hier in Suid-Afrika en die res van die wêreld 'n baie geseënde Kersfees! Geniet die tyd met julle familie en vriende.
I wish all my friends here in South Africa and all over the world a merry Christmas! Enjoy the time with your loved ones.
Ich wünsche allen eine frohe Weihnachten! Geniesst die Zeit mit Euren Geliebten.
Posted by Lodie at 2:27 PM 1 comment:
Op die omslag van 'n CD van Helena Hettema het ek die volgende gesien. Ek wonder wie dit geskryf het.
"But the tigers come at night with their voices soft as thunder."
:Duizend keer telde ik die sterre aan een hemel vol verdriet ... Duizend keer wil ik met je lopen zelfde weg, zelfde droom."
Posted by Lodie at 4:41 PM 1 comment:
Hoe groot is 'n olifant?
Hierdie besonderse foto is deur Estelle Roos geneem.
Met ons Duitse gasgesintoer in September in Botswana het ons in Moremi gery en om 'n nou draaitjie gegaan. Links was die water van die Kwairivier, regs bos. Toe ons om die draai gaan, kom dié olifant van voor. Dit is my bakkie wat vir die olifant gluur (of is dit andersom?) Ons moes 'n paar keer terugstoot toe weer en weer 'n olifant om die draai gekom het.
Weet julle hoe gróót is 'n olifant?
Estelle Roos is the photographer of this remarkable photograph.
We were on a German host family tour in Botswana during September. One late afternoon we were driving in Moremi and had to pass through a narrow passage with the Kwai river to the left and bush to the right. Suddenly this elephant appeared in front of us. It was my pick-up staring at the elephant (or was the elephant staring at us?). We had to reverse a couple of times as each time as we were trying to pass through another elephant appeared.
Do you know how BIG is an elephant?
Posted by Lodie at 2:30 PM No comments:
Dis wat my trek van reis: Om dit te sien en te beleef wat anders is. Waar ek groot geword het in die Oos-Vrystaat dra die Sotho vrouens hul goed op die kop. Bo in die Kavango het ek hierdie vrou afgeneem: Goedjies op die kop, selfoon om die nek.
This is what fascinates me about travelling: To see and experience the difference between me and you, but also to see how much we have in common. Where I grew up in the Eastern Free State the Sotho women carried their stuff on their heads. Now, up north in the Kavango I saw this lady, luggage on the head, cell phone around the neck.
Posted by Lodie at 4:22 PM 1 comment:
Een foto duisend woorde.
The rainy weather let me test a few settings on my camera in my garden.
Posted by Lodie at 4:14 PM 3 comments:
Laaste twee foto's vir eers
Dit reën by ons in die Bosveld. Sagte milde reën wat die groen nog groener gaan maak, en die rooi bosveldgrond nog rooier. Ons kan net opkyk en dankie sê.
It is raining in the Bushveld. Soft continuous rain. After this rain the green will be even more green, the fertile red bushveld soil even more red. What a blessing from above!
Posted by Lodie at 3:46 PM No comments:
The young has arrived
Ry met jou motor in 'n wildpark en stop by die eerste trop rooibokke waar klein rooibokkies by is. Wat 'n fees om net te sit en kyk na die manewales van die jong bokkies. En selfs moeder hiëna sit haar voorpoot beskermend oor haar drinkende kroos.
Do yourself a favor. The next time in a national park stop at the first group of impalas with young ones. What a pleasure to watch these small creatures running, jumping and chasing around. Even mother hyena, ugly as she is, put her front leg in a protective way on her young.
Weer 15 Desember
Ons het 'n heerlike dag gehad. Ek het die foto's met 'n Canon Ixus 70 met 3x optiese zoom geneem.
We had a wonderful day today. I took these pictures with a Canon Ixus 70 with a 3x optical zoom.
Posted by Lodie at 6:24 PM No comments:
Dis n besonderse datum. Vandag oor 3 maande vertrek ek. Vandag 4 jaar gelede het ek Pretoria vir die bosveld verruil.
Posted by Lodie at 8:55 AM No comments:
Hierdie foto is vir julle wat al in Letaba onder die bome gesit en kyk het na die wonders wat ons net in Afrika kan beleef.
This picture is for you who already had the privilege of sitting under the trees in Letaba and watch what only Africa can offer.
Posted by Lodie at 8:24 PM 1 comment:
Thornybush, July 2005
Posted by Lodie at 10:43 AM 1 comment:
Ek het na drie aande se kyk LWD klaar gekyk. As jy die dvd s erens kan koop, doen dit! Ek het gefassineerd tot die laaste oomblik gekyk. Al was ek groen om al hul ondersteuning te sien (voertuie, personeel, geld sonder einde, self n kok nou en dan) het Charley B. en Ewan M. baie gedoen om die romantiek van langafstand motorfietsry gevestig te kry. Drie maande en twee dae voor low budget Naboom2Germany begin!
I decided that for the next few days I will upload a photograph daily.
In spite of the human nature, crime, power shedding etc. we still have a wonderful nature filled with beautiful creatures.
Let us enjoy what we have. Let us go out and make one person smile today.
(I took the photograph in the Timbavati one winter afternoon.)
Posted by Lodie at 8:22 AM No comments:
Vandag roep die langpad
Dit gebeur sommer net.
'n Mens staan een oggend op en in plaas van vroegoggendvrede en -vreugde kom lê so 'n verlange oor jou.
Die verlange na 'n pad wat wegraak in die tonnel groen bos daar ver voor.
Die gevoel van neerplof in die skadu van 'n groot Maroela terwyl jou natgeswete rug teen die growwe stam druk, en die klein mopanievliegies in jou oë en neusgate probeer inkruip.
Die prikkelende smaak van 'n yskoue Pepsi uit 'n Cuca shop op jou tong. (Wie van die ou manne onthou nog wat 'n Cuca is?)
Op hierdie oomblik sit ek 'n geestessit langs my motorfiets voor die Cuca shop in die Kavango.
Ek wonder of dit nou reën daar.
Posted by Lodie at 4:20 PM No comments:
From high up in a baobab tree the two KLR's look quite small.
Van hoog in die takke (figuurlik) van 'n groot kremetart lyk die twee KLR's maar klein.
Posted by Lodie at 3:55 PM 1 comment:
Dit agtervolg my
In Namibie en Botswana is ek agtervolg deur kragonderbrekings en netwerkloosheid. In Naboom sit ons vandag die tweede dag sonder krag. Ohopo! Hoe kan mens so werk?
Posted by Lodie at 1:26 PM No comments:
Lessons learnt (read it with humour)
The trial run through Namibia brought valuable experiences.
1. I can do with only half the clothes of what I had with now.
2. Avoid any time schedule. Follow your inner clock and stop where you want for how long you want to. Keep an eye only the flight date back to SA.
3. Never rely only on a credit card. Have emergency cash with you. Technology will fail you somewhere on your trip.
4. One has to film more, still camera and video camera.
5. Ride shorter distances every day.
6. One has to do a thorough check of the bike (tyres, chain, bolts and nuts, filters) at least every third day.
7. Never ask a motorist about road conditions. Their interpretation of road conditions differ to that of a motorcyclist.
8. Be friendly towards border officials / soldiers / police at road blocks. However, don't overdo your compliments about the beauty of the country or friendliness of the people. They are more intelligent than to fall for that. Try something else to improve their mood / attitude.
9. If a police woman or female soldier stops you at a road block be prepared to take off your goggles, bandana, helmet. They are more thorough with their checks as their male colleagues.
10. Avoid a guest house or lodge where the manager or proprietor is a single lady that sits every evening with the guests in the bar. Somewhere she neglects her responsibilities. I never stayed at such a place where some of the lights, room safe or taps were in perfect order, or where the breakfast was late because the staff came to work late, or not at all.
I will add to the list as the experiences increase.
Posted by Lodie at 3:45 PM 1 comment:
Lesse geleer (soms tong in die kies)
Met die nabetragting van my oefenlopie deur Namibië het ek so 'n paar riglyne vir my geformuleer.
1. Ek kan met die helfte minder klere klaarkom.
2. Vermy enige tydskedule. Volg jou innerlike horlosie, stop wanneer jy wil vir so lank jy wil. Hou slegs jou einddatum in die oog.
3. Moenie net op 'n kredietkaart vertrou nie. Sorg altyd vir kontant vir die dag as die tegnologie faal.
4. Maak 'n punt om meer te fotografeer, stilkamera én videokamera.
5. Ry korter afstande per dag.
6. 'n Mens moet meer tyd inruim om die motorfiets ten minste elke derde dag goed deur te gaan.
7. Vra nooit 'n motoris na die toestand van 'n pad nie. Hulle interpreteer die padoppervlakte anders as 'n motorfietsryer.
8. Wees vriendelik met grensbeamptes / polisie wat padblokkades beman, maar moenie gatkruip oor hoe ongelooflik mooi 'n land is of hoe vriendelik alle mense is nie. Hulle is slimmer as dit om daardeur tot 'n beter stemming gebring te word.
9. As 'n vroulike polisielid of vroulike soldaat 'n padblokkade beman, maak maar gereed om jou stofbril, kopdoek en valhelm af te haal. Hulle is baie deegliker as hul manlike kollegas.
10. Vermy 'n lodge of gastehuis waar die bestuurderes / eienares 'n enkeldame is wat elke aand saam met die gaste in die kroegie sit en kuier. Sy skeep êrens af. Nog nooit was ek by so 'n plek waar daar nie 'n paar goed in 'n kamer stukkend was of die ontbyt laat was omdat die werkers laat of glad nie opgedaag het nie. (Nee, ek is nie seksisties nie)
Ek sal die lysie uitbrei soos wat my ervarings op die fiets toeneem.
Posted by Lodie at 3:23 PM No comments:
Laaste dag / Last day
Die laaste dag se ry was nie werklik ry nie. Ek het teen 'n gemaklike spoed gegly (glided) deur 'n bosveld so mooi, verby glasvlaktes vol water en gras wat soms hoër as die fiets was. Die gevoel van "Dit was lekker", het my gemoed vol gelê. Die rustige dreuning van die enjin het bygedra tot die gevoel van volmaaktheid.
Dit was soos 'n heerlike langnaweek wat verby was, maar, die beloning: Volgende jaar kom drie maand evan dieselfde! 98 dae nog.
Alle gebeure loop in sirkels. Ek was vandag gou by 'n dr. Breed in Nylstroom vir 'n inspuiting. Toe hy hoor waar ek was, het ons onmiddelik die webblad oopgemaak en foto's gekyk. Hy was baie jare terug dokter op Katima Mulilo.
Die heel eerste foto van Woensdag 5 Desember is van die Zambezirivier. Hy het my vertel dit was hulle swemplek daardie jare, en hulle het dit Shelley Beach genoem.
Een dag toe hulle daar geswem het, het hy vir 'n hond (hulle hond?) heeltyd 'n blikkie in die water gegooi. Die hond het dan in die rivier gespring en die blikkie gaan haal. Dié dag gooi hy weer die blikkie in en die volgende oomblik gryp 'n krokodil die hond langs sy vrou.
Om die blikkie te kry, het die hond tussen sy vrou en die krokodil ingeswem.
Wie twyfel nog dat soms dinge gebeur om ons te red net omdat onse horlosies nog tyd op het.
The last day on the bike was not like riding, it was gliding. I glided at a comfortable speed through the bushveld as beautiful and serene as I never have seen it before. Grass was standing in water-filled plains, often higher than the bike. I experienced a feeling of contentment. The relaxed humming of the engine contributed to my feeling of being close to heaven.
It was if a long weekend was over, but, the best was still to come: The long tour next year.
Life happens in circles. I had to see a GP in Nylstroom today, Dr. Breed. He told me that he was a GP in Katima Mulilo many years ago. We opened the website immediately.
We came across the first picture of the 5 December, the one with the mighty Zambezi in the background. That had been their swimming place, which they called Shelley Beach.
One day they went swimming. He threw a tin into the river so that a dog (their dog?) could go and fetch it. They continued with the game for quite a while. Then, suddenly, jaws snapped and gone was the dog. A crocodile took it next to his wife.
At that moment the dog swam in between the crocodile and his wife, and paid with his life.
Things like this happen to save us from some ordeal, if our clock has still time on it.
Posted by Lodie at 4:07 PM 1 comment:
Hier is so 4 videogrepe. Ek moes die kwaliteit baie verminder om die grootte vir die internet klein te kry.
Here are 4 video clips of my trip to Namibia. I had to decrease the quality quite a bit in order to lessen the download time for you.
1. Katura op pad na die stamdans toe / Katura on her way to the traditional dances of her tribe. www.naboom2germany.co.za/Katura.wmv (2.04 mb)
2. Kavangovroue besig om mielies te stamp / Kavango women busy making meal for their traditional porridge. www.naboom2germany.co.za/Maal.wmv (516 KB)
3. Die olifant langs die pad, eers met die gedreun van die KLR / The elephant next to the track, with the KLR idling. www.naboom2germany.co.za/Olifant.wmv (833 KB)
4. Die kleinboere besig om te ploeg in die Caprivi / The existence farmers busy ploughing their fields in the Caprivi. www.naboom2germany.co.za/Ploeg.wmv (1.47 MB)
Posted by Lodie at 11:23 AM No comments:
Foto 1: Die ou se waentjie se as het gebreek. Sy besittings staan uitgepak op die teer. Op die kas is 'n plakker: I love bread!
Picture 1: The axle of trailer broke. His earthly possessions stood in a line on the tar. On the cupboard is a sticker: I love bread!
Foto 2: Die normaalweg vaal stuk aarde tussen Phalapye en die grens lyk nou so.
Picture 2: The dry dusty stretch of road between Phalapye and the border looks that that now.
Foto 3: By Baltimore kon ek die opdatering van drie dae doen. Baltimore is 'n klein vulstasie in Limpopo.
Picture 3: At Baltimore I could do the update of the previous three days. Baltimore is a filling station in the bushveld of Limpopo.
Foto 4: Tonele soos hierdie kan mens net verder en verder laat ry.
Picture 4: Scenes like these let one just continue riding, and riding.
Foto 5: My bedkassie voor my bed.
Picture 5: Next to my bed.
Posted by Lodie at 5:59 AM No comments:
Emil, jou e-pos
Emil, ek het op jou vrae per e-pos geantwoord, maar die e-pos het elke keer onafgelewerd teruggekom. Jou ISP het dit as gemorspos beskou! Is daar 'n manier dat jy my e-posadres kan "white-list"?
Hier is die teks van die e-pos:
Jammer as jy lank moes gewag het op antwoorde. Ek is terug onder die sambreel van internet en kan nou emails aflaai en antwoord.
1. Ja, ek ry met 'n stofbril. Met die fiets het ek 'n full face helmet gekoop. 'n Mens is met so 'n helm baie beskut. In Junie in Botswana het my kop baie warm gekry en het die son van bo my 'n goeie sonbrand gegee. Die helmet wat ek nou gekoop het, het nou sy eerste rit gedoen en ek oorweeg om dit volgende jaar eerder as die full face te neem.
1.1 My kop was koeler;
1.2 Met die kokende warm lug van Namibie het ek my kopdoek oor my gesig gebind en baie lekker gery.
1.3 Die afdakkie was absoluut wonderlik om direkte son op my gesig te keer.
1.4 In baie stowwerige toestande sal ek net eenvoudig permanent met 'n kopdoek ry en dit elke aand was.
2. Dit is 'n No Fear. Jy is gelukkig om dit saam te kry!
3. Ek was baie beindruk met die oorspronklike Dunlops. Hulle het my byna 10 000km gegee. Ek het nou bande op wat die Kawasaki plek in Pta gesê het die meeste enduriste gebruik en wat goeie kilos gee. Dis 'n onbekende (vir my) Taiwanese maak. Hulle het nou byna 5000km op. Ek het nou twee emails gekry waar mense ander bande aanbeveel. Ek sal dit by die huis gaan oplees en vir jou aanstuur. Tans bly my eerste keuse Dunlops.
4. Garmin Etrex Legend Cx. Ek het dit in Londen gekoop vir iets oor R 3000. Die GPS het in Junie teen 110km/h op die teerpad geval toe die bracket gebreek het. Dit het soos 'n bal paar keer op die pad gehop voor dit in die bos verdwyn het. Toe ek dit gekry het, was dit in een stuk en het nog gewerk!
5. Ek het 'n twee liter Camelpak wat ek nou nie saamgevat het nie. Ek het twee een liter bottels volgemaak waaruit ek gedrink het. Ek het my camelpak nog net eenkeer gebruik, Junie in Botswana. Moet bely het dit nog nie skoon gemaak na Junie nie behalwe om te spoel.
6. In Afrika is mens dom (net my opinie) of deperaat as jy vinniger as 110 toer. Daar is soveel gevare in die vorm van bokke, donkies, honde, kinders, slaggate, vlakvarke, ens. Ek voel op my veiligste teen 100 - 110km/h. As ek lekker ry, pad is goed, min verkeer, geen diere, dan ry ek so in die linker derde van die linker rybaan. As daar baie diere is of baie Afrikaverkeer (taxi's, busse ens.) dan ry ek in die regter derde van die linker rybaan. Veral met diere gee dit my genoeg beweegruimte na links of regs. Ek het nou 'n patroon met slaggate gesien: Ry in die middel van die linker rybaan. Die meeste slaggate is in die eerste of laaste derde van die rybaan. As die pad uit meer slaggate as teer bestaan, ry ek ver links of eerder nog aan die kant (op die skouer) van die pad. Busse en taxi's is dan geneig om oor die hele pad te swerf op soek na 'n stukkie teer.
7. Die baadjie is 'n Arlenn Ness. Dit het 'n voering wat ek nou uitgehaal het. Dit het goeie beskerming oor die elmboë en skouers. Dit het lugvloei maar bly warm. As mens nie ry nie, is dit 'n sauna. Ek is net so 70% tevrede met die baadjie. Vir my is die beskerming egter meer werd as die sweet.
8. Tegniese kennis: Ek beskou myself as 'n volslae tegniese idioot. Ek het vir my die manual van die fiets gekoop, en met dit kan mens reeds die meeste goed doen. Ek het al die agterband afgehaal, spacers verwyder, remskyf ens. Sonder die boek sou dit nie moontlik gewees het nie. Met my voorbereiding het ek baie gelees. In al die boeke van mense wat al oor Afrika gery het, staan dit: Erens kry jy altyd hulp. Die bos mechanics weet van improvisasie. Tussen hulle, my en die manual glo ek ek sal regkom. (In teenstelling met die BMW waar mens soms 'n rekenaar nodig het). Na hierdie ry het ek net nog meer vertroue in die fiets.
9. Ek gaan op die stadium alleen ry. Ek verkies dit ook so want daar is net te veel voorbeelde van vrienndskappe wat onder sulke uiterste toestande tot niet gegaan het. Ek is eerder net vir myself vies as vir iemand anders.
Groete! (die pad huis toe wag)
Posted by Lodie at 5:47 PM 1 comment:
Beginpunt: Katima Mulilo
Afstand: 640 km
Vandag was 'n normale Afrikadag: Vol verrassings, vol irritasies.
Ek is taamlik moeg na die dag se ry. Ek sal later meer volledig oor vandag skryf.
Die dag het mistig in die Caprivi begin. Ek het 'n paadjie gekry wat afgaan Zambezi toe. Ek het tot by die water gery en vir 'n rukkie gestop. Dit is een van die besonderse riviere van Afrika.
Buite Katima het ek gestop om te kyk hoe 'n kleinboer sy stukkie grond ploeg. Orals het die boere geploeg. Vrouens het geloop en mielies met die hand saai.
In Kasane (Botswana) was geen internet beskikbaar nie, geen selfoonopvangs, geen ATM wat gewerk het nie, geen bank wat geld kon gee nie. Alles en almal was off-line. Ook die vulstasies waar mens normaalweg met kredietkaart kan betaal, wou net kontant hê. Les geleer: Vertrou nooit net op 'n kaart nie.
Ek het toe my olifante gesien! En dit baie ver van enige nasionale park! Die een was baie lus om te baklei. Mens kan dit op die foto sien. Ek het ook buffels gesien toe ek deur Chobe Nasionale Park gery het.
As ek meer energie gehad het, het ek oor talle ander temas geskryf wat vandag deur my kop gemaal het. Dit sal moet wag tot later.
Afsluitgedagte: In die Caprivi het ek vanoggend verby 'n land gery wat die kleinboer besig was om met sy span osse te ploeg. Die een vooros het gelê en kon / wou nie opstaan nie. Elke keer wat hy met die sweep geslaan is, kon mens die rukkings in die os-lyf sien. As diereliefhebber was dit slae deur my siel.
Hoe gedaan moet 'n mens / dier wees as die pyn van slae genadiger is as die pyn van weer probeer opkom?
Today was a normal day in Africa, a day filled with surprises and also irritations.
I am tired after the riding of today. I will write later more about today. There is a lot to be told.
I left Katima early. The forest was covered with fog. I found a track going down to the mighty Zambezi. I stopped and stood there for a few minutes, paying tribute to a mighty river.
I stopped at one of the many farmers plowing his field. They use only oxen, no tractors. The women followed and were sowing mealies (corn) by hand.
I tried to find working internet in Kasane (Botswana). No success. No technology functioning in Northern Botswana. No cell phone signal, no ATM, no bank that could pay out money to a poor traveler like me, no filling station that was prepared to fill up a bike and where one could pay, as always, with a credit card. All businesses were offline. Lesson learnt: Never rely only on a credit card!
At last I saw my elephants! Those three were wild roaming elephants far away from any national park. The one was quite moody. One can see that on the photograph. I saw also buffaloes while riding through Chobe National Park.
If I had more energy I would have written about more topics that occupied my mind today. That has to wait for later.
I would like to share one thought with you. While riding through Caprivi this morning I saw another existence farmer busy plowing. One of his oxen was lying and could net get up. He was whipped without mercy. I could see the impact of the whipping running through the body of the poor animal. As an animal lover it was a whipping that I felt in my soul.
How resigned must a human being / animal be when the pain of a beating is more merciful than getting up again?
Posted by Lodie at 12:57 PM No comments:
Eindpunt: Katima Mulilo
Dit gaan nog steeds goed met my.
Binne die eerste 100km van Rundu het ek reeds besluit om my voorafbeplande tydskedule in die Okavango te gooi.
Ek het van die teer afgedraai en tot teen die Okavangorivier gery. Van daar op die grondpad al met die rivier langs.
Dit was die moeite werd. Langs die kristalhelder water van die Okavango het ek op die man afgekom wat met sy pyl en boog probeer vis jag het. Ek het hom vir 'n ruk gesit en dophou, en ek was saam met hom oor sy sukses bly toe hy 'n vet kurper geskiet het.
Witkeelbyevreters het in die riete voor my kom sit. Links van my het kinders in die water gespeel. Wat van die krokodille.
Toe kom Katura Engelbertha daar verby. Sy is ma van 4 kinders. Sy en die ander vroue is op pad na 'n tradisionele dans wat hulle vir die ou mense doen. Net daar trek sy vir my haar dansklere aan. Dit is lae op lae wit en swart krale wat sy dra. Op haar kop kom 'n hooftooisel wat my baie aan die Himbas herinner.
Toe ek verder moes ry, gee sy vir my een van haar armbande wat sy om die bo-arm dra, persent.
Net nadat ek oor die Okavangorivier was, is ek deur die polisie gestop. Padblokkade. 'n Polisieman wat mank loop, stap tweekeer om my fiets. Wie, van waar, waarheen? Toe ek vir hom sê ek wil Kasane toe, kyk hy my aan of ek mal is.
"Alone? It is stupid to drive that road alone. Stupid."
Hy het my deur die blokkade gewink. Toe verstaan ek wat hy bedoel. 200km lê voor my deur die Caprivi Game Park. Geen dorp, net bos. Elke tien kilometer is 'n waarskuwing teen olifante.
Ek het baie bos gesien maar geen olifante nie. Miskien more.
By Kongola het ek vir my 'n blik Pepsi gekoop en 'n blik met sousboontjies en Weense worsies. Middagete met 'n plastiese vurk.
Toe trek die hemel oop en dit reën. Na die hitte van die woestyngedeeltes is ek nou in die subtropiese Caprivi. In die oggend bitterwarm, in die middag kom die reën.
Toe ek Katima Mulilo inry, sous dit. Die bos in die dorp is welig saggroen. Die dorp waar die tien dienspligtiges tydens die vuurpylaanval baie jare terug gesterf het.
Vanaand slap ek in die ou offisiersmenasie van die SA Lugmag tydens die bosoorlog.
As die mure net kon praat wat se menslike stories sou mens hoor?
Dis 'n storie vir anderdag.
Life still treats me well.
Within the first 100 km from Rundu I decided not to stick to my time schedule any more. I was losing too much by sitting on the bike most of the day.
I turned off the Trans Caprivi Highway and rode a dirt track down to the river. From there I follwed the river for quite a while.
Life compensated me. Next to the crystal clear water of the river I could watch a guy, sitting with his arrow and bow in the reeds, waiting to shoot fish. With him I was glad when he held a fat bream later in the air.
Whitebreasted bee-eaters sat in the reeds in front of me just to fly up in the air, darting to catch some flying insects. To my left children played in the water. What about the crocodiles?
Then Katura Engelbertha entered the scene. She is mother of four children. With the other women of the village they were on their way for traditional dances performed for the elderly. To show me her dancing clothes she started dressing herself with layers of beads. On her head she put some kind of crown made of
hardened cow dung? I don't know but it reminded me of the Himbas.
When I had to leave she gave me one of her arm rings as a gift.
After crossing the Okavango river I was stopped by police at a road block. An elderly policeman walked around my bike twice, limping as he walked. The normal questions: Who am I? From where? Destination?
I told him I planned to reach Kasane before sunset. He looked at me as if I were mad.
He waved me on through the road block. Then I understood what he meant. 200km of forest. The Caprivi Game Park. And warning signs against the elephants every 10 km.
I enjoyed the bush every kilometer of the 200. Unfortunately I didn't see any elephants. Perhaps tomorrow.
At Kongola I bought a tin of Pepsi and a tin of beans and Viennas. Lunch in the bush next to my bike.
Then it started raining. After the heat of southern Namibia it was a welcome relief to the stinging sunshine. The Caprivi lies in a subtropical belt. During the rain season the mornings are hot with rain during the afternoon.
On reaching Katima Mulilo it was pouring. The bush in the town was lush green. This is the town where ten national servicemen were killed during a nightly rocket attack many years ago.
Tonight I sleep in the old officers' mess of the SA Air Force dating from the bush war.
If the walls could speak what human tragedies would be told? But that is a story for another day.
Posted by Lodie at 12:53 PM No comments:
Maandag 3 Desember
Afstand: 648 km
Ek voel soos in die paradys.
Ek is vroegoggend weg uit Okahandja. Toe ek die eerste waarskuwingsbordjie teen vlakvarke sien, het ek nie besef hoe ernstig dit hulle bedoel nie. Dit is droog daar en die varke lyk soos geraamtes. Ek het by 70 varke opgehou tel. Hulle loop en vreet orals.
Ek het 'n vvlakark byna getref. Hy het van regs uit die gras gehardloop, reg voor my in. My eerste reaksie was om te rem, en ek het dit behoorlik gedoen. Ek en die vark het saam vir links van die pad af gemik. Gelukkig is hy soos 'n halwe meter voor my voorwiel van die pad af. Ek het gestop sodat my bene eers kon ophou bewe, en weer aan Anne se kruis geraak. Dankie. Dit was byna.
Toe ek Kavango binnegery het, was dit asof die gordyn op 'n wêreld agter my toegetrek het en voor my 'n nuwe wêreld oopgemaak het. Ek was toe vir die eerste keer werklik in Afrika. Links en regs van die pad hutte, komplekse, skole uit paal en modder gebou met 'n wielvelling as skoolklok. Vroue wat mielies en mahango fynstamp in hul houtblokke. Hare wat gevleg word onder die bome. Kinders wat onder die bome sit en kavango lemoene verkoop. Nee, dis nie regte lemoene nie. Dit is wel geel, het 'n harde dop, en as jy dit oopbreek, is daar vlesige pitte binne wat jy skoon eet of -suig. Smaak nie sleg nie. Ek kry die idee dit moet ryk aan vitamine C wees.
Ek het baie diere gesien: Honderde vlakvarke, swartwildebeeste, rooi hartbeeste, gemsbok, duiker, ses koedoes langs die pad. Met 'n motorfiets is foto's neem egter moeilik.
Dit was my verste afstand tot dusver, maar ek voel goed. Ek kon nog maklik 'n uur of twee gery het.
Ek sit nou in Rundu en kyk oor die Okavangorivier na 'n dorp, Calais, in Angola.
Dit was 'n mooi dag in Afrika.
(Roete vir dag: http://www.naboom2germany.co.za/Rundu.pdf )
I feel like being in paradise.
I left Okahandja early this morning. Just outside the town was the first warning sign against warthogs. I didn't realise that they actually meant it. The area there is very dry, and hundreds of the warthogs were grazing and feeding next to the road.
I had a very close shave. Once a big warthog came charging from the right. I was doing about 110 km/h when it appeared in front of me. I braked, and I mean BRAKE. The hog and the bike both went to the left off the road. It passed in front of me with less than 50 cm between the front wheel and itself. I had to stop to get my shaking legs under control. I had to touch Anne's cross again. Thank you. It was close.
On entering Okavango it was as if a new world opened in front of me. I was in real Africa. Huts, complexes with huts of different sizes and form, schools built of logs, mud and with a wheel rim as school clock. Women busy with poles milling mealies (corn) and mahango into flour for porridge. Children under the trees selling kavango oranges. It is not real oranges. It is yellow but with a hard shell. When you open it there is a juicy flesh that one can eat. It does not taste bad. I can imagine it has to be full of vitamin C.
I saw a lot of animals: Warthogs by the hundreds, gnus, red hartebeest, oryx antelope, duiker, six kudus standing next to the road. However, to take photographs from a bike is quite difficult.
The distance for today was the furthest on my bike until now. I felt good and could have continued for another hour or two.
I am now in Rundu, sitting on the banks of the Okavango river, looking across to a town, Calais, in Angola.
It was a beautiful day in Africa.
(My route today: http://www.naboom2germany.co.za/Rundu.pdf )
Nee, die program wou nie die kaart laai nie.
Hier is die roete na die kaart toe:
The programme didn't want to laof the PDF map. Above you'll find the link to the route.
Posted by Lodie at 6:12 AM No comments:
Die Reis gaan verder
As ek eendag baie bandwydte het vir hoëspoed internet, dan sou ek vir julle nou die bosgeluide opgeneem het sodat julle kan hoor hoe dit klink.
Dit begin lig word in die ooste. Die donkie wat vir die warm water sorg, brand reeds. 'n Heerlike houtrookreuk hang tussen die kameeldoringbome. Die bosfisante begin nou te roep. Hulle het mos so 'n deurdringende roep. Die beste deel kom nou: Roibostee. Ek is tuis 'n koffieverslaafde maar het besluit dat ek op die motorfietstoer meer tee as koffie gaan drink.
Ek het gisteroggend lank oor die kaart gedwaal. Iets kort nog. Ek mis diere. Tot nou toe het ek net bobbejane gesien en een enkele vlakvark (op pad lughawe toe). Toe ek terugkom, lê die vlakvark doodgery.
Toe slaan die sigeunergene deur. In plaas van nou die direkte pad huis toe te ry, draai ek vanoggend noord. Ek hoop om vanaand by Rundu te kan slaap. Vandaar Caprivistrook, Katima, CHOBE NASIONALE PARK!, en dan oor Kasane, Nata en Francistown huis toe. Ek wil ten minste 'n paar olifante sien!
Ek heg my roete in PDF formaat aan. Ek hoop dit is oopmaakbaar.
Good morning to all my German friends and Sophie in the USA!
It is early morning in our beautiful African bush. The birds already started with their calling songs, the francolins send out their piercing calls. In the donkey (not an animal but a structure, in which one makes a fire to heat water for washing) is already burning. Next to do is my tea, our lovely rooibos tea. I am a coffee addicted butI decided to take only tea with on my trip. Coffee takes up to much space.
A map always fascinates me. I have the same urge as my friend Jacques to look at maps and find new routes and destinations.
On this trip the only wild animals I saw were baboons and one single warthog, which was killed by a vehicle soon after that . On the spur of the moment I decided not to tun southwest on the quickest route home, but to turn north, direction Angola border, then Caprivi strip, Katima, and then CHOBE NATIONAL PARK! From there my route will take me over Kasane, Nata and Francistown back home.
I am going to attach a PDF file with my route. I hope it would be possible to open it.
Posted by Lodie at 6:04 AM No comments:
Wanneer is die tyd reg om te reis?
Vanoggend gaan soek ek 'n Sondagkoerant in Okahandja.
By die Shell vulstasie by die ingang na die dorp staan 'n rooi motor met 'n NW-nommerplaat uit Suid-Afrika. In die motor het twee jongmense gesit en iets gedrink, water of koeldrank, dis nie belangrik nie.
Op pad terug na my fiets toe groet ek en hoor hulle is studente uit Potchefstroom wat in Tsumeb woon. Hulle is op pad huis toe.
Ons begin te gesels oor my fiets en toer en hulle studies. Tot my skande het ek my nie voorgestel nie en ook nie hulle name gevra nie.
Die jong dametjie het nou met Bedryfsielkunde klaargemaak. Haar reguit vraag het my bietjie onkant gevang.
Hoe weet mens wanneer is dit die regte tyd om op 'n lang reis te gaan?
Ek het nie dadelik 'n antwoord gehad nie en het haar die webbladadres voor op my fiets gewys. Sy het gesê sy sou vanaand die antwoord daar gaan lees.
Nou het ek al jul lesers se raad nodig.
Wanneer is dit die regte tyd om op 'n lang reis te gaan?
Twee aanhalings het my dadelik bygeval. Uit die Alchemist: Life is truly good to those who pursue their life destinies.
Die ander een:
"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." - Miriam Beard
Onbekende PUK dame, jy het klaar met jou reis begin. Die verandering wat diep binne in jou begin het, is die teken daarvan. Daarom het jy die vraag gestel. Al hou jy nie van die Alchemist nie, volg jou lewenspad en lewensdrome wat mettertyd al hoe meer gaan word. Jy sal nog ver reis, letterlik en figuurlik.
Vandag is ek werklik so bitter diep dankbaar vir elke mens wie se voetspore my paadjie kruis. Dankie julle twee!
Posted by Lodie at 4:33 PM 1 comment:
The people that one meets while traveling are interesting. There are those that one would not miss, those pain in the (neck?) kind of people.
One Friday and Saturday I met interesting people that I would like to mention. Friday night it was Mr and Mrs Werner Goetz from Baden-Wuerttemberg in Germany. They were on their first visit to Southern Africa and I believe not the last. It was fun chatting with them for quite a while.
Yesterday at De Oude Koffiehuis I met Markus Kuehnemann and Sabine Krause (photograph). We chatted for quite a while, and again I admire those people coming to our continent on their expense, using their talents and qualifications to help us Africans. Markus and Sabine used a puppet play firstly to entertain the Namibian kids, secondly and hopefully to let the Namibian primary schools realize how valuable a puppet play can be during education. Truly admirable people.
Then I met the Frenchman on his BMW GS 1200 Adventurer.
I saw the bike last night and as all motorcyclists do, went over and had a look at it. It had a French number plate. Otherwise the bike was a shiny example of German technology.
This morning with breakfast I had him as my neighbour, hearing him chatting in English to the waiters and telling them about his trip across Africa. Immediately my ears went like radar dishes. What a chance to meet this gent!
I walked over to him and we started chatting. I asked him about his route and he mentioned Spain and Morocco. I asked him about the East and West route, and the following countries after he had left Morocco.
And then something strange suddenly happened.
He lost the ability to speak any English. He couldn't understand or replied on any of my questions.
Strange. What do you think could be the reason?
Ek het nog baie oefening vir die weë van Afrika nodig.
Ek moes nou twee nagte so 20km van die Windhoek lughawe oornag, 25km van Windhoek self.
Verblyf in Windhoek is vir my oordrewe duur. Ek kom toe Donderdag laatmiddag by die Airport Lodge aan. Op 'n heuweltjie met 'n mooi uitsig staan 'n klompie grasdak chalets. Ek het besluit dat ek daar gaan bly. Ek het nie sleg gebly of geëet nie, maar die plek het nie met my siel gepraat nie. Toe ek vanoggend ontbyt eet voor ek die pad gevat het, was ek sommer net suur. As ek op 'n plek bly en meer betaal as wat ek in 'n baie lang tyd vir verblyf betaal het, dan maak Ricoffy my mond galbitter. In 'n lodge gee mens jou gaste filterkoffie, nie Ricoffy nie. Kant en klaar. Tuis en by vriende drink ek graag Ricoffy, maar nie in 'n sg. lodge nie.
In die toekoms slaap ek eerder in 'n sandsloot naby die lughawe.
Ek het besluit om Saterdag en Sondag in Okahandja deur te bring. Die dorp staan as die Tuindorp bekend en die omgewing is vir my baie mooi. Die grootste aantrekkingskrag was egter die Militêre Museum op die dorp. Omdat ek ook in die bosoorlog baie jare terug was, fassineer die plek my. Dit is ook hoekom ek in Windhoek die Heroes' Acre gaan besoek het. Die politiese oorwinnaar kan altyd die geskiedenis uit sy perspektief skryf.
Dit was bitter warm toe ek met groot verwagting in Okahandja aankom. Heel eerste het ek na die Museum toe gery. By die hek het 'n soldaat van die Namibiese weermag in die skaduwee gesit-lê. Nee, ek kan die museum nie besoek nie.
Die museum is nog nie oop nie. (Sedert 2005 het ek al seker drie keer verby die museum gery en met verlangende oë na die uitstallings gekyk.)
Dis byna 2008. Die soldaat sê die museum behoort volgende jaar oop te wees.
Ek vra of ek dan nie net om die gebou mag stap om na die Russiese pantervoertuie en MVL's te kan kyk nie want ek sou darem graag 'n foto daarvan wou neem.
Ja, ek mag.
Ek stop my motorfiets in die skadu van 'n kameeldoring. Teen dié tyd stroom die sweet my al af.
Die soldaat sluip nader. Nee, ek mag nie daar stop nie. Glad nie voor die museum nie. Hy wys my na 'n parkeerplek verder af in die straat, in die bloedige son. 'n Mens mag nie voor die museum parkeer nie.
Om al my ryklere uit te trek, valhelm, rybril, handskoene en gps af te haal, is in die hitte nie eenvoudig nie. Toe ek alles uit en af het, sê ons soldatevriend ek mag geen foto's neem nie.
Ek weet 'n mens moet jou mond in Afrika hou en altyd vriendelik bly, maar die soldaat het my irritasie laat oorloop. Wat was geheim aan die voertuie? Niks.
Ek kon nie help om hom te së dat hulle seker nie wil hê die wëreld moet sien hoe flenters het die SAW hulle geskiet het nie.
Toe ek dit klaar gesê het, het ek dadelik geweet: Fout, groot fout.
Gelukkig was die ou net so slap soos sy lê-houding van vroeër toe ek daar gestop het.
My dag was bederf en ek was suur.
Toe kom ek buite die dorp op die gesinnetjie af (dis nou die foto's aan die begin van die beriggie) wat hulle klere in 'n stroom helder was. Ek het by hulle gestop. Die man sê sy naam is Jan Jakobus en hy het 'n selfoon. Hy gee glad nie om dat ek 'n paar foto's van hom en sy gesin neem nie. Gaan die foto's miskien op NBC kom? Ek moes hom teleurstel dat ek nie van die Namibian Broadcasting Corporation is nie.
Ek neem foto's en almal glimlag vir my. Hulle skoon klere lê uitgesprei op die gras.
Toe ek daar wegry, kla my gewete my aan.
Ek kla oor Ricoffy in 'n lodge.
Ek kla omdat ek nie by 'n museum kan ingaan nie.
'n Pa en ma is bly omdat hulle hul klere in 'n stroom helder water kan was, al moet hulle twee kilometer deur die warm bos loop.
Ek wens ek kon my Westerse arrogansie afwas soos Jan Jakobus sy klere gewas het.
Dus, jammer Road Lodge oor my innerlike ongelukkigheid met die Ricoffy. En Namibiese soldaat, jammer vir my ongeduld toe ek nie jul museum mag besoek het nie.
"Wherever you go, never take an idiot with you, you can always pick one up on the way."  Billy Connolly
Posted by Lodie at 5:14 PM 1 comment:
I need more patience for my trip through Africa next year.
I may be wrong but I always had the perceived idea that accommodation in Windhoek was too expensive. One paid more for what you got.
I spent two nights in a lodge about 20 km from the Windhoek airport and 25 km from Windhoek.
Late Thursday afternoon I saw the sign to the Airport Lodge and I decided to go there. On a hill with a beautiful view over the dry African landscape were a couple of thatched chalets. My stay there wasn't bad, but I could not connect to the place. Accommodation and food were good.
I hate to pay quite a lot to have Ricoffy with my breakfast. An establishment calling itself a lodge must at least offer filter coffee. Even in Springbok in Namaqualand I got filter coffee. At home and at friends I would drink Ricoffy without a second thought, but as a paying guest
In the future I will rather pitch my tent in a sandy riverbed close to the airport.
I left the lodge in a grumpy mood this morning. In Windhoek I hooted at a car waiting to turn off without its indicators on. I passed a slow pickup on the left. This is so untypical of me.
I decided to spend Saturday and Sunday in Okahandja. The town is also known as the Garden Town. I just love the town. The main reason for my visit was the Military Museum in the town. I passed there a couple of times, not having time to stop and visit. Today, Saturday, would be the day.
I spent many months on the border as infantry soldier many years ago. I am fascinated by the different views on the bush war. That was the reason why I went to see the Heroes' Acre south of Windhoek. The bottom line is: He who was politically correct may write the new history.
It was again scorching hot as I got to the Military Museum. At the gate a Namibian soldier lazed around in the shade. No, I wasn't allowed to visit the museum.
It had still to be opened. (Since passing there the first time back in 2005 it was in the same state of readiness or un-readiness as it was today. Still to be opened / inaugurated?)
It is nearly 2008. The soldier suggested that I should come back next year. Then it should be open.
I asked whether I could walk around the building to see the old Russian weaponry that was used in the bush war and to take a few photographs?
With delight he granted me permission.
To the left of the entrance was a big camel thorn tree. I parked the bike in its shade. I was soaked in my own sweat.
The soldier strolled to me, he didn't walk. No, I couldn't park my bike there. I had to park it 70 m further down the street in the burning sunshine. One may not park in front of a museum that is not open.
I rode the 70 m further down the street, parked, and started taking off my riding clothes, helmet and gps. I have just finished stripping me and the bike of all valuables when our soldier friend strolled closer again. No, it was not possible to take any photographs.
You dear little ex-comrade imitation of a proud soldier! (or something similar) Again very untypical of me.
I know one has to shut up and smile in Africa. I was doing that for many years already. But this imitation of a soldier brought me to the edge of my patience. Not his error, mine.
My mouth was a bit quicker than my three burnt out brain cells. I asked him whether the world should not see how the SADF beat them up.
Error. Big error.
Fortunately also his brain was drained by the heat and he didn't register what I had said.
He strolled back to his lying place and didn't react.
My day was spoiled and my attitude irritated me.
Then I met Jan Jakobus and his family. They were busy doing there washing 7 km out of town at a small stream with clear water. Jan Jakobus introduced me to his wife and told me that he had a cell phone at his hut. They were glad to be photographed and asked whether they would be on NBC.
I had to disappoint him with the news that I was not an employee of the Namibian Broadcasting Corporation.
I took a few pictures and everyone was smiling. Their washed clothes were spread out on the grass, bright splashes of colour in the bush.
When I left them I had a feeling of unease in me.
I was complaining about Ricoffy at a lodge.
I was a moaning brat because I couldn't visit a museum.
Jan Jakobus and his wife were happy about washing their clothes in clean water, even if they had to walk two kilometers through the bush.
I wish I could have washed off my Western arrogance like Jan Jakobus had washed his clothes.
So, I apologize to the Road Lodge for complaining about the coffee. And yes, I apologize to the Namibian soldier for being so impatient.
PS Do you want to complain about my English? Please speak to Jan Jakobus. J
Terugkyk oor die laaste paar dae
Hier is 'n paar foto's van die laaste paar dae wat vir my nogal spesiaal was.
Foto 1: Hier het ek my rooi velskoene in Clanwilliam gekoop. Is die woorde nie mooi nie? "Voetegoed uit die Cederberge". Hoe sou mens "Voetegoed" vertaal? Ek wil dit eerder onvertaalbaar hou. Dit is vir my een van die mooier Afrikaanse woordskeppinge.
Foto 2: Die mooiste stuk pad wat ek tot nou toe nog gery het, was die stuk tussen Garies en Kamieskroon. Die omgewing is besaai met rotsalbasters en rante en kleiner berge, gru en rof. Mens wil net ry en stop en kyk en jou deur niks laat aanjaag nie.
Foto 3: In 'n rotstuin in Springbok het die aand toe ek 'n entjie gaan stap het, die kat gesit. Sy / Haar oë was opvallend.
Foto 4: Die dag toe dit so bloedig warm was op die pad tussen Vioolsdrif en Grünau. Honderd kilometer die roete in het hierdie piekniekplek uit die niet verkyn, die eerste stukkie skaduwee wat ek gekry het. My fiets het ook plek in die skadu gekry, en ek het plat op die sement in die skadu gaan lê.
Due to a lack of anything exciting I would like to share some photographs with you.
Photo 1: At this shop in Clanwilliam I bought my red velskoene. The text on the big signboard was so striking. "Voetegoed" is an untypical, very descriptive word for shoes. It is impossible to translate it without losing the beauty of the word.
Photo 2: The most beautiful stretch of road I've travelled on the present tour is the road between Garies and Kamieskroon. On both sides of the road the mountains are covered with rocks, the plains strewn with huge rock boulders. I felt like floating on my bike through the valleys and mountains, lost in the beauty of nature.
Photo 3: In a rock garden in Springbok I saw this cat. Its eyes were striking.
Photo 4: On that bloody hot day between Vioolsdrift and Grünau when there was no shade for more than 100 km, this shady picnic spot suddenly appeared and I stopped for a welcome break. Also my bike found a spot in the shade. I lay down next to my bike on the cool (?) cement floor.
I am on the way to Okahandja, will write later again.