Trina's Tantilising Tidbits: Sneek Peak Into Very Twisted Things By Ilsa Madden- Mills
Sneek Peak Into Very Twisted Things By Ilsa Madden- Mills
BUY HER BOOKS HERE: http://amzn.to/1qNbF3y Social Media Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/authorilsamaddenmills Twitter: @ilsamaddenmills Instagram: http://instagram.com/ilsamaddenmills/ Website: http://www.ilsamaddenmills.com/ Instagram:
Labels: Ilsa Madden-Mills, Sneek Peak Louis Armstrong - Astrodienst Guest user u1353698234
23-Jul-2016, 10:24 UT/GMT Dagboek: Week 4 - Tankwa Karoo (Episode 5) | Voetspore RSA
Uiteindelik bietjie van ‘n rusdag. Die manne kon laat slaap. Maar dis ook ‘n dag om tot verhaal te kom. Om wasgoed te was. Om e-posse op datum te kry. Gideon gebruik die dag om deur al sy foto’s te gaan en te selekteer vir sosiale media. Ek bring die dagboek op datum. Norbert en Simon pak die voertuie uit, maak skoon en pak weer terug. Stefan kyk na die opgeneemde materiaal. Streicher help waar hy kan. Elkeen hou hom besig. Vir ons is dit een van die belangrikste dae van die week.
Letsatsi op die Knersvlakte is net die plek om dit te doen. Dudley en Aletta vertel dat hulle deesdae nooit meer in ‘n dag se tyd Kaap toe ry van Koingnaas nie. Hulle onderbreek hulle reis by Letsatsi.
Die begin van ons vierde week op die pad. Dit begin met ontbyt by die Red Ox restaurant van Letsatsi. Dis ‘n pragtige restaurant met sy mure vol van Walter Meyer skilderye. Jean Lambrechts het die kunstenaar ondersteun wanneer hy geld nodig gehad het. So het hy seker die grootste versamelaar van Walter Meyers geword. Dis hartseer dat so ‘n begaafde man op die ouderdom 52 ons moes verlaat. In Desember 2017 is hy na bewering deur sy vrou met ‘n mes doodgesteek tydens ‘n rusie.
Ons vertrek vanaf Letsatsi. Dis ‘n perfekte plek vir ‘n konferensie, troue, onthaal… en ook vir ‘n Voetsporespan wat twee dae lank iewers moes oorstaan.
Ons ry deur Vanrhynsdorp na die Gifberg. Dit is ‘n styl bergpas op na bo. Amper bo, en mens moet eers stop om water te drink uit ‘n fontein wat uit die rotse spuit. Heel bo en daar is ‘n bakoond wat gebruik is om vir die padwerkers brood te bak toe die pas in 1917 gebou is. Vandag word die pas eintlik maar net deur plaaslike boere gebruik.
Aan die bo-punt van die pas is pragtige gesteentes, gevorm deur die wind. Van dit lyk soos drake, of krokodille, of mense se gesigte.
Ons is na die Gifberg Vakansie plaas van die Huisamens. Jansu ontvang ons en wys vir ons ons verblyf in ‘n plaashuis.
Die Gifberg is die plek vir rooibostee. Hier is baie landerye waar die uniek Suid Afrikaanse tee verbou word. Dis nie ‘n gewas wat besproei word nie. Dis eintlik maar fynbos, afhanklik van natuurlike besproeiing – reën.
In 1994 het ‘n Amerikaanse maatskappy die naam probeer steel. Hulle het geweet van die medisinale waardes van die tee waarvan die Suid Afrikaanse inheemse bevolking vir honderde jare reeds weet. Maar na uitgerekte hofsake is die naam weer trots Suid Afrikaans.
Ons ry met die Gifberg 4×4 roete af na die Doringrivier. Een gedeelte laat ons bekommerd – dis steil en klipperig. Sal ons weer kan op?
Middagete is langs die Doringrivier. Die rit na bo laat al ons vrese waar word. Dit is een van die moeilikste 4×4 uitdagings wat ons op vanjaar se reis sou hê. Twee voertuie tel ‘n paar skraapmerke op. Net Gideon se 76 trippel die berg uit.
Die aand maak Streicher springbok hamburgers. Dis heerlik. Die manne gaan kruip vroeg in…
Ons moet die Gifberg verlaat. Net eers ‘n draai maak in die rooibostee plantasies waar die manne besig is om in te boet. Dis om te kyk waar daar in ‘n ry nie van die plantjies groei nie, dan plant hulle ‘n nuwe een. Jacques en sy span verduidelik wat hulle doen. Dis handearbeid.
Ons ry weer af met die Gifbergpas, terug na die N7. Ons ry suid, verby Klawer tot by Clanwilliam. Op die dorp koop ons ‘n klompie rooibostee produkte – kits rooibos, sjampoe, lipsalf, handeroom… verstommend wat alles met die tee gedoen word.
Ons ry die Sederberge in. Die roete neem ons oor die Pakhuispas, een van padingenieur, Thomas Bain, se Suid Afrikaanse bergpasse, ge-open in 1877.
By Travellers Rest stop ons. Dis waar die Brandewyn rivier loop. Die manne gaan proe – dis net die kleur van die water wat aan die rivier sy naam gee. Dit smaak maar soos water. In die rivier sien ons ‘n otter baljaar.
Dis verder, noord.
Laat middag kom ons aan by Papkuilsfontein. Dié plaas in die Hantam is reeds sewe geslagte lank die Van Wyks s’n. Alrie verwelkom ons. Saam met haar skoonpa Willem en haar man Jaco ry ons na Oorlogskloof. Onderweg vertel Willem ons die geskiedenis, wys ons ‘n paar interessante plante, en ook sommer rotstekeninge. Hulle weet nie of die tekeninge 1 000 jaar of 20 000 jaar oud is nie.
Die waterval in Oorlogskloof is indrukwekkend. Dit val byna 80 meter na benede.
Die aand word ons in die Waenhuis trakteer met heerlike boontjiesop en murgbene, skaap skenkels en nagereg. Nie waaraan ons aldag gewoond is nie.
Ek en Streicher het by Gert Boom geslaap. Dis ‘n pragtige kliphuisie, sonder elektrisiteit. Een dag in die plek is veels te kort. Nóg ‘n plek waarheen ek sal moet terugkeer.
Die ander manne was by De Lande. Dis ook van die uitstekende akkommodasie wat beskikbaar is by Papkuilsfontein.
Ontbyt was soos die res van ons besoek – uit die boonste rakke. Ons gaan ons nog dood eet…
Ons groet Alrie, Jaco en Willem. Ook Mariette. Ons reis noord, na Nieuwoudtville.
By Protea Motors kuier ons by Thinus Coetzer. Hy is ‘n motorfiets versamelaar. Het byna 500 van die ysterperde. Van hulle is meer as ‘n miljoen Rand werd. Alles in ‘n stoor, toe onder die stof.
Ons gaan eet pannekoek by die NG Kerk tannies in die kerksaal, langs die imposante sandsteen kerk wat in 1906 gebou is.
Ons ry die dorp uit. Met die R27 ry ons rigting Calvinia. Net voor die dorp draai ons regs, met die langste grondpad in Suid Afrika tussen twee dorpe, rigting Ceres. By die Bloukranspas hou ons stil om uit te kyk oor die Tankwa. Daar is ‘n koue front besig om in te beweeg. Dit begin selfs reën.
Ons draai af na Hammelhoek. Laat middag kom ons by die privaat wildtuin aan. Godfried Thiart en ‘n hele span manne wag reeds vir ons.
Die plan is om rustig in die bossie skerm te kuier, ‘n staanrib langs die kole te sit, later ‘n skaap op die kole, en te luister na die wonderlike, oorspronklike musiek van Die Kaalkop Waarheid. Maar dit werk nie presies so uit nie.
Dit is ernstig koud, en reën elke nou en dan. Dis beter in die huis as by die kookskerm. Verder is Die Kaalkop Waarheid soek. Ons weet nie of hulle dalk voertuig probleme het, of vasgeval het in die reën nie. Ons stuur ‘n soekgeselskap uit. Dié kom terug met geen nuus nie.
Uiteindelik, om en by agt dertig die aand, kom die manne daar aan. DKW sing vir ons hulle pragtige liedjie “Tankwa Karoo”. Die skaap is intussen op die kole, en word stuk-stuk gaargemaak. Dit word ‘n aand van lekker kuier, lekker musiek, roosterkoeke, half gaar vleis… ‘n laat nag sessie. Onverbeterlik.
Meeste van ons gashere, soos ook DKW en Godfried Thiart, moet vroeg reeds vertrek. Dis professionele manne wat moet terug Kaap toe om te gaan werk.
Ons ry eers na die Hoek van Hammelhoek vir ‘n uitsig oor die Tankwa. Dis steeds bitterlik koud.
Ons groet die laaste Tankwa manne en reis na die Tankwa Nasionale Park. By Ontvangs ontmoet ons Natasja Smith, ‘n dame met ‘n innemende persoonlikheid en passievol oor haar werk. Sy vertel ons die geskiedenis van die Tankwa, dat dit ‘n barre woestyn is waar mens spesifiek kom om niks te doen, dat daar geen selfoon sein is, dat hulle net meer as 5 000 besoekers per jaar ontvang, dat daar ‘n klompie verblyf opsies is soos kamp geriewe, chalets en selfs ‘n privaat lodge.
Die Tankwa Karoo Nasionale Park is begin in 1998 toe Conrad Strauss 280 vierkante kilometer se skaapplaas, in een van die droogste gebiede in Suid Afrika, aan Nasionale Parke verkoop het. Dit is met ander woorde ‘n jong park.
Ons gaan na ons kampplek by Perdekloof. Die geriewe is uitstekend. Elke kampplek het sy eie ablusie en kombuis geriewe.
Ons ry verby van die ander verblyf opsies soos waar plaashuise omskep is in gastehuise. By Elandsberg is daar nuwe chalets, elk met ‘n swembad.
Laat middag ry ons uit teen die Gannagapas. Die Gannagapas breek geen rekords oor hoogte bo seevlak, gradiënt, lengte of enige iets anders nie. Dis bloot ‘n wonderlike bergpas met 45 draaie en ‘n uitstekende uitsig oor die Tankwa. Dis een van Suid Afrika se spesiale bergpasse.
Aan die bokant van die pas, die Gannaga Lodge van oud polisieman Johan Visagie. Johan is reeds die sesde geslag op die plaas, en vandag is dit ‘n oornag plek aan die bokant van die indrukwekkende pas.
Dis reeds donker toe ons terug ry na ons kampplek. Ons maak vuur, Streicher maak kos. Vir ‘n verandering braai ons nie. Dis ‘n heerlik hoender pasta gereg.
Toe die manne gaan inkruip is dit naby aan vriespunt.
Meeste van ons het verbasend warm geslaap in die nag. Norbert, Stefan en Gideon in die tente, ek en Streicher in ons Khaya. Net Simon het gesukkel in sy daktent. Dalk het hy net teen die verkeerde hoek gestaan in die wind.
Koffie en beskuit in die geselskap van ‘n klompie patryse wat die krummels kom oppik. Daarna vertrek, rigting Sutherland.
Dis mooi grondpaaie waarop ons ry, verby bouvalle van eertydse plase. Later is ons die Park uit. Ons ry rigting Sutherland met die Oubergpas.
Oubergpas – byna 900 meter wat ons klim in net 10 kilometer. Een van die steilste bergpasse in Suid Afrika. As dit nie sneeu nie, heel begaanbaar. Dit is ‘n pas wat die boere gebruik het om in die koue wintermaande hulle vee van die Roggeveld af te bring na die warmer gedeeltes onder die pas.
Net voor middagete ry ons Sutherland binne. In die dorp word alles vernoem na die hemelruim – Sterland, Haley sê Kom Eet, die Mars Bar… ons gaan eet middagete in die Sutherland Hotel, en gaan maak ons daarna tuis by die Jupiter Gastehuis.
Drie uur die middag ry ons die dorp uit, met die teerpad, oos.
Sutherland is nie net die koudste dorp in Suid Afrika nie, maar ook die plek met die skoonste lug en minste lug besoedeling. Daarom is SALT – die Southern Africa Large Telescope, hier opgerig.
Anthony Mietas, ‘n boorling van Sutherland, is die man wat ons rond wys. Ons begin by die kontrolekamer waar Marc Wichmann en Timothy Fransman wag vir die nag, en die volgende sterrekundige wat by SALT die hemelruim kom instaar.
SALT is indrukwekkend. Dit is ook trots Suid Afrikaans. Ons vergaap ons aan die tegnologie. Aan die 40 ton teleskoop met sy spieëls wat met die druk van ‘n knoppie draai in die rigting wat die sterrekyker verlang. So ook die dome. Anthony, Marc en Tim beïndruk ons met hulle entoesiasme. ‘n Besoek aan SALT op Sutherland is so belangrik soos ‘n besoek aan die Apartheid museum, die Voortrekker Monument, die Kruger Wildtuin en die Kaapse Waterfront.
Toe dit donker word gaan ons na Jurg Wagner se Sterland. Jurg het oor die jare talle mense blootgestel aan die hemelruim. Met uitstekende apparaat gee hy mense geleentheid om deur sy teleskope die nag in te staar, na Jupiter en Saturnus, na die juwelekissie, die Suiderkruis, Orion, die maan. Dis altyd goed om tussen 7 en 9 saans by Jurg ‘n draai te maak.
Na die sterre kyk is ons terug Jupiter Gastehuis toe. Dolla en haar personeel wag vir ons met heerlike skaap kerrie, hoender pastei en pizzas.
Die aand skakel ons die warm komberse aan toe ons gaan inkruip.
Dis ‘n rusdag. ’n Af dag. Ek en Streicher besluit om Kleinmond toe te ry. Daar is net een probleem – die diesel in die brandstof filter is gevries. Geen wonder – buite is dit minus nege grade Celsius! Dit neem bykans vier ure, tot net voor tien, voor ons in die pad kan val.
Die ander manne is na Rietfontein net buite Matjiesfontein.
Dis die einde van die vierde week. Dis tyd om tot verhaal te kom.
At last a day of rest. The men can sleep in. A day to recover. To do laundry. Update correspondence. Gideon sorts through and selects photographs for social media. I update the diary. Norbert and Simon organise the content of the vehicles and Streicher assists where possible. Everybody is busy. To us a very important day of the week.
Letsatsi on the plains of the Knersvlakte is the perfect location for these activities. Dudley and Aletta inform us that they no longer do a daytrip from the Cape to Koingnaas. They always have a stopover at Letsatsi.
The fourth week of our journey starts with a breakfast at the Red Ox restaurant at Letsatsi. A beautiful restaurant with a collection of Walter Meyer paintings. Jean Lambrechts supported this artist whenever he needed money and thereby became the biggest collector of his work. Sadly, this talented artist passed away at the age of 52. In December 2017 he was fatally stabbed with a knife during a dispute with his wife.
We depart from Letsatsi. The perfect venue for conferences, weddings, receptions … especially a place where the Voetspore team can stop over for two days.
We travel through Vanrhynsdorp to Gifberg. A very steep pass to the top. On our way we stop to drink water from a rock fountain. At the top we find an oven that was used by the road builders in 1917. Today the pass is mainly used by the local farmers.
At the top end of the pass we find beautiful rock formations shaped by the wind. Some resemble dragons, crocodiles or even human faces.
We go to the Gifberg Holiday Farm owned by the Huisamens. Jansu receives us and shows us our accommodation in a farmhouse.
The Gifberg is known for its rooibos tea. Here are several farms where this uniquely South African product is cultivated. These crops do not need irrigation. It is fynbos which depends on natural rainfall.
In 1994 an American company tried to take ownership of the generic term “rooibos” They were familiar with the medicinal value of the tea that our proud South African nation has known about for decades. After a lengthy court battle the name is still proudly South African.
We drive the Gifberg 4×4 route down to the Doring river. We were very worried at one stage – steep and very rocky. Will we be able to return?
Lunch is next to the Doring river. The route back exceeds all fears. One of the most challenging 4×4 routes on our journey so far. Two vehicles get a few scrapes. Only Gideon’s 76 trots through the motions.
That evening Streicher serves springbuck hamburgers. Delicious. The men retire early …
We must leave the Gifberg. Firstly, a visit to the rooibos tea plantations where the men are filling. Plants are planted in between empty rows. Jacques and his team explain the process. All manual labour.
We follow the route down the Gifberg pass, back to the N7. We travel south, past Klawer to Clanwilliam. In town we buy several rooibos products – instant rooibos tea, shampoo, lip ice, hand lotion … amazed by the variety.
We enter the Ceder mountains. The route takes us passed the Pakhuis pass, one of Thomas Bain’s South African mountain passes, opened in 1877.
At Travellers Rest we take a break. This is where the Brandewyn river flows. The men want to sample – the name is only derived from the colour of the water. It tastes like water. We spot an otter.
Further, north bound.
Late afternoon we arrive at Papkuilsfontein. This farm has been in the possession of the Van Wyk’s for seven generations. Alrie meets us. Her father-in-law, Willem, and her husband, Jaco, takes us to Oorlogkloof. Along the way Willem narrates the history, shows us interesting vegetation and rock paintings. They are unsure if it dates to 1 000 or 20 000 years.
The waterfall at Oorlogkloof is most impressive. It drops almost 80 metres.
That evening we are treated in the Waenhuis on tasty bean and marrow soup. Lamb stew and dessert. Not something we enjoy every day.
Streicher and I overnight with Gert Boom. A beautiful stone house without electricity. One day is not enough. Another place for me to revisit.
The rest of the team stay at De Lande. Another excellent accommodation available in Papkuilsriver.
Breakfast is like the rest of our enjoyable visit – top notch. We are going to gorge ourselves to death …
We say our goodbyes to Alrie, Jaco and Willem. Also Mariette. We travel north to Nieuwoudtville.
At Protea Motors we visit Thinus Coetzer. He collects motorcycles and owns almost 500 of these iron horses. Some is valued at more than a million Rand each. In storage, covered in dust.
We eat pancakes served by the aunties at the Dutch Reformed church hall. It is next to the impressive sandstone church building that was erected in 1906.
After leaving town, we take the R27 towards Calvinia. Before reaching the town, we turn off on the longest dirt road between two towns in South Africa , direction Ceres. We pull off at the Bloukrans pass for a view of the Tankwa. A cold front is moving in. It starts to rain.
We turn off to Hammelhoek and arrive at the private game reserve in the late afternoon. Godfried Thiart and a team of men await us.
The intended plan is to relax in the bush lapa with friends, having a barbecue, and to listen to the wonderful original music of Die Kaalkop Waarheid. It, however, does not turn out as planned.
It is seriously cold, with intermittent rainfall, and far more comfortable inside the house than in the lapa. Die Kaalkop Waarheid is also nowhere to be seen. We are unsure whether they have car trouble or got stuck in the rain. We send a search party. They return without any news.
Eventually, at approximately eight thirty, they arrive. They entertain us with a wonderful song “Tankwa Karoo”. The lamb is placed on the coals and slowly cooked. An evening of visiting, beautiful music, roosterkoek, half-cooked meat … a late-night session. First rate.
Most of our hosts, as well as DKW and Godfried Thiart must depart early. Professional men with work obligations in the Cape.
We go to the Hoek of Hamelhoek for a view of the Tankwa. It is still bitter cold.
We greet the last few Tankwa men and travel to the Tankwa National Park. At reception we meet Natasja Smith, an endearing lady, passionate about her profession. She relates not only the history of Tankwa, but the fact that this barren desert is the ideal place to relax because of the absence of cell phone coverage, and the mere annual 5 000 visitors. There are a few accommodation options including camping, chalets as well as a private lodge.
The Tankwa Karoo National Park was started in 1998 when Conrad Strauss sold 280 square metres of sheep farm, in one of the most arid regions in South Africa, to National Parks. A young park.
We go to the camping facilities at Perdekloof. The facilities are excellent. Each stand has its own ablution and kitchen.
We pass the various available accommodation, such as farmhouses that have been converted into guest houses. Elandsberg has new chalets, each with its own swimming pool.
Late afternoon we drive along the Gannaga pass. It does not break any records regarding gradient, length, height above sea level or anything else, but it is a wonderful pass with 45 turns and an excellent view of the Tankwa. One of South Africa’s special passes.
At the top end of the pass is the Gannaga lodge, owned by ex-policeman Johan Visagie. He is a member of the sixth generation on the farm, and today it is an overnight facility at the top of this impressive pass.
It is dark when we reach our camping spot. We start a fire and Streicher prepares food. We do not have another barbecue but have a delicious chicken pasta dish instead.
The temperature is close to freezing point when we go to bed.
Most of us slept surprisingly warm during the night. Norbert, Stefan and Gideon in tents and Streicher and I in our Khaya. Only Simon had trouble in his roof tent. Maybe he did not choose the right spot regarding the angle of the wind.
Early coffee and rusks in the company of a few partridges who peck at the falling crumbs. Hereafter, direction Sutherland.
We travel on decent dirt roads, pass ruins of former farms, and leave the park in the direction of Sutherland via the Oubergpass.
Oubergpass – a 900 metre rise which we cover in a mere 10 kilometres. One of the steepest passes in South Africa. If it does not snow, very negotiable. The farmers used this pass to take their livestock during the cold winters from the Roggeveld, to the warmer regions at the bottom of the pass.
We enter the town of Sutherland at lunchtime. Everything name here has a celestial theme – Sterland, Haley’s Come Eat, Mars Bar … we have lunch at the Sutherland Hotel and then took up our accommodation at The Jupiter Guest House.
At three in the afternoon we leave the town on the tar road, towards the east.
Sutherland is not only famous for being the coldest town in South Africa, but also for the freshest air and the least pollution. Therefore SALT – the Southern Africa Large Telescope was erected here.
Anthony Mietas, a local of Sutherland, shows us around. We start at the control room where Marc Wichmann and Timothy Fransman is on watch for the night, the next astrologers to observe the SALT celestial.
SALT is impressive. Proudly South African. We gape at the technology. The astrologer in charge, can by pressing a knob, turn this 40-ton telescope with mirrors to any direction required. The dome as well. We are impressed by Anthony, Marc and Tim’s enthusiasm. A visit to SALT in Sutherland is as imperative as a visit to The Apartheid Museum, the Voortrekker Monument, the Kruger National Park and the Cape Water Front.
At night fall we go to Jurg Wagner’s Sterland. He has exposed many people to the heavens over the years with his excellent equipment. People use his telescopes to look at Jupiter, Saturn, the Jewel Box, the Southern Cross, Orion, the Moon. Always a good idea to visit Jurg between 7 and 9 at night.
After watching the stars, we return to The Jupiter Guest House. Dolla and her staff await us with delicious lamb curry, chicken pie and pizza.
That evening we switch on the electric blankets when going to bed.
It is our day of rest. A non-working day. Streicher and I decide to drive to Kleinmond. Only one problem – the diesel in the filter is frozen. No wonder – the outside temperature is minus nine degrees Celsius. It takes us almost four hours – shortly before ten, before we can depart.
The rest of the team drives to Rietfontein, close to Matjiesfontein.
It is the end of our fourth week. Time to recover.
Dagboek: Week 3 – Namakwaland (Episode 4) Dagboek: Week 5 – Klein Karoo (Episode 6)