Dagboek: Week 5 | Voetspore RSA
Die week het bitter koud begin. Maar hoe dan anders? Ons is in die suid-oos Vrystaat.
Ons kuier by Anton en Riekie Grimbeek op die plaas Witkoppen in die Memel distrik. Dis ‘n pragtige plek met sandsteen huise. Die lodge het slaapplek vir 8 in vier dubbelkamers. Die kombuis/eetkamer is die kuierplek met ‘n enorme vuurherd.
Ons ontmoet vir Johannes Schoeman. Hy is Anton se buurman. Hy is ook een van die heel beste skuts in Suid Afrika. Johannes het by Anton ‘n draai kom maak om ‘n klompie blesbokke te oes.
Die skiet van diere is vir baie mense ‘n sensitiewe saak. Feit is – ‘n dier moet doodgemaak word voor mens dit kan eet. ‘n Hoender se kop moet afgekap word, ‘n bees of skaap moet geslag word. Met wild moet hulle geskiet word. Daarom is dit nodig om ‘n man so professioneel soos Johannes in te kry.
Johannes skiet met ‘n Blaser geweer. Hy skiet net kopskote. Die bok weet nie eers wat kom nie. Dis so anders as by slagpale waar die beeste vir ‘n dag of twee staan en luister na die ander se gebulk. Met kopskote word daar ook geen vleis gemors nie.
Ons maak in Suid Afrika heeltemal te min van wildsvleis gebruik. Dit bevat geen groei hormone of antibiotika. Ook weinig vet. Dit is sekerlik die gesondste vleis wat daar is. As jy ook wild oes soos Johannes, met die bok wat vinnig uitbloei, is daar ook nie die wilde smaak aan die vleis wat dan eers vir dae in jogurt moet lê en waarvan die smaak verbloem moet word deur ‘n oormaat naeltjies nie.
Om dit te bewys het Johannes se vrou, Dianna, vir ons kom kosmaak. Vir middagete, wilds pasteitjies. Dit was onverbeterlik. Die aand het sy weer kom kook – springbok- en eland snitsels. ‘n Ander vriend van Anton, Frank Oberholzer, het ook kom kuier en vir ons tong gemaak. Wildstong. Tong val nie in almal se smaak nie, maar as jy daarvan hou – en selfs die wat dit nog nie voorheen geëet het nie – Frank se tong was uitstekend.
Wildsvleis, ge-oes op die regte manier, is uitstekend. So ook was die kuier om die kaggel met ‘n heerlike glas Guardian Peak, Voetspore Frontier, asook Beyers se Trail Dust.
Dis nie seker wat die mooiste was nie – gisteraand se maanopkoms, of vanoggend se sonsopkoms. Die suid-oos Vrystaat met sy sandsteen formasies is pragtig.
Fanyana Sondezi en Josef Sello het vir Streicher, Nina en Norbert drie perde opgesaal. Hulle het met die perde gaan stap teen die hange van die sandsteen kranse. Tussen hulle was reuse troppe blesbokke en swart wildebeeste – die narre van die veld. Die bokke staan rustig en wei, en spring dan skielik op en hardloop ‘n draai. Staan dan weer stil, voor die volgende bevlieging hulle beetkry.
Na ontbyt groet ons en reis na Memel. Dis ‘n pragtige roete tussen die sipres lanings deur.
Op Memel maak ons ‘n draai by die kerk. Dis Sondag, maar die kerk is stil. Dis COVID 19. Ds. Fanus Coetzee kom groet. Hy vertel ons van die gemeente en ook die Rebellie van 1914 wat in die distrik begin het.
Ons ry ook na Graham Hatley van die plaas Geduld vir ‘n uitstekende uitsig oor Seekoeivlei, die vleilande van die Memel distrik. Dis die begin van die Vaalrivier sisteem, en filtreer die water om suiwer en skoon te wees.
Vanaf Memel reis ons na Verkykerskop, verby Harrismith en Phuthaditjhaba tot by Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. Ons ontmoet vir Zee Ndaba, ons gids vir die volgende dag. Dis ‘n lekker kuier saam met haar met Nina se aandete van garnale in heuning en gemmer.
Na koffie en beskuit val ons in die pad. Dis met tye ‘n moeilike 4×4 roete na die begin van ons staptog. Vandag wil ons die 14 km aandurf na die Drakensberg se amfiteater.
Zee is ‘n baie aangename persoon met ‘n wonderlike sin vir humor. Maar as dit by stap kom, is sy ernstig. Die humor bly, maar die reëls, om almal se veiligheid te verseker, kan nie gebuig word nie. Mens voel sommer veilig met haar as gids.
Die roete is sigsag op teen die berg. Vir onfikse mense is dit bietjie uitdagend. Na sowat drie kilometer, bergop, is daar ‘n uitsig oor die amfiteater. Dit is skouspelagtig mooi. Maar dan is dit verder, berg op.
Na bietjie meer as 5 kilometer kom ons aan by dit wat ek gevrees het – die ketting leer. Met die leer, wat swaai as jy hom opklim, moet jy 30 meter loodreg na bo. Ek is baie trots op Nina wat dit doen. Daarna ook Gideon, Streicher, Norbert en Stefan. Toe is dit my beurt. Dis algemeen bekend – ek is nie gemaklik met hoogtes nie. En dit dan op ‘n swaaiende leer.
Met Zee se aanmoediging (“ek vat nie ‘nee’ vir ‘n antwoord nie”) durf ek die leer aan. Eers die eerste 20 meter. Dan is daar ‘n breek. Daarna die volgende 10 meter. Dit kos vasbyt, maar ons almal is uiteindelik bo.
Nou is dit nog so 2 kilometer se stap, bo op die Drakensberg, na die amfiteater. Onderweg – die begin van die Tugelarivier. Die water is glashelder en skoon. Ons maak ons waterbottels vol.
Die uitsig vanaf die amfiteater is skouspelagtig mooi. Die Tugela valle is die tweede hoogste waterval in die wêreld. Daar is mense wat beweer dis die hoogste. Dat die Angel valle in Venezuela verkeerd gemeet is. Die Tugela tuimel sowat 1 000 meter na benede. Die stap na die uitsig was elke tree die moeite werd.
Maar toe moet ons terug – die volle sewe kilometer, wat die swaaiende ketting leer insluit.
By die voertuie aangekom en my slim foon wys duidelik – ons het nie 14 kilometer afgelê nie, maar 18! Geen wonder dit het ons tot ses uur die aand besig gehou nie. Almal is maar moeg en uitgeput. Tog – hierdie was een van die wonderlikste Voetspore dae wat ons nog gehad het!
Die sonsopkoms oor die Drakensberg was weer eens uitsonderlik.
Ons het oornag in die luukse eenhede van die Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. Dis ‘n plek wat ek baie sterk kan aanbeveel – of jy nou wil gaan stap of nie.
Voor die lodge is daar ‘n aasvoël restaurant. Bene word vir die voëls uitgesit. ‘n Tiental krans aasvoëls kom maak ‘n draai. Net die lammergeier is sku. Miskien bietjie versigtig vir die kameras.
Ons groet vir Zee. Dis haar verjaarsdag en ons gee vir haar ‘n bottel Voetspore wyn. Ook Johan en Magda van die lodge kom sê totsiens.
Ons reis verder wes, verby die imposante sandsteen formasies van Golden Gate. Dit is indrukwekkende landskappe.
Middagete is by Clarens se Artist Cafe. Ons ontmoet vir Ollie Esplin. Hy het ‘n besigheid met die naam Clarens Extreme. Hulle doen absailing, hangvlieërs, witwater roei, bergklim… ‘n verskeidenheid adrenalien sporte. Ons het vir eers, na gister se ketting leer, genoeg daarvan gehad. Maar Ollie vertel ons ook van die geskiedenis van die streek en wat alles daar te doen is. Genoeg om ons die besluit te laat neem dat mens moet terugkom.
Later neem Ollie ons na sy kamp waar gaste in ossewaens slaap. Toe na Surrender Hill waar Genl. Piet Cronjé tydens die Anglo Boere-oorlog oorgegee het aan die Britse magte.
Die son sak oor die Vrystaat soos ons reis na Moolmanshoek – ons blyplek vir die volgende paar dae.
Dit is bitter koud in die Suid Vrystaat. In my kamer by die lodge op Moolmanshoek was die ondervloerse verhitting aan, so ook die elektriese kombers, en dan het ek ook sommer die kaggel laat brand.
Herman het die ontbyt gemaak. Hy is die sjef by Moolmanshoek. Van hom sou ons die dag nog veel meer te doene kry.
Na ontbyt neem Oom Willie Nel ons op ‘n 4×4 roete deur Moolmanshoek. Streicher en Nina is saam met Wiesman, sy seun Klein Willie, en Sampie, te perd.
Dis ‘n uitstekende roete. Ons sien sommer baie wild. Swart wildebeeste, blesbokke, gemsbokke, hartbeeste, waterbokke, sebras… vlakte wild. Willie verduidelik hoe die wild bestuur moet word op die plek wat 30 jaar gelede ‘n marginale saaiplaas was. Nou is dit ‘n baie suksesvolle privaat wildtuin.
Die gras moet kort gehou word, anders kan meeste van die vlakte wild dit nie vreet nie. Daar is ook ernstige gewerk om die erosie te bekamp. So kom die vleilande terug. Willie gaan wys ook waar die inheemse Afrika bamboes hervestig is.
Nina en Streicher geniet elke oomblik op die perde. Dis Boerperde. Wiesman en Sampie is uitstekende gidse. Verlede jaar het hulle aan die Mongol Derby in Mongolië gaan deelneem. Dis ‘n 1 000 km uithou rit – die mees uitdagende perde wedren in die wêreld. Wiesman het tweede gekom, en Samie is aangewys as “Rider of the Race”. Net 22 kon die rit voltooi.
Saam met Wiesman, Klein Willie en Sampie klim hulle die berge van Moolmanshoek uit met hulle perde.
Ons ontmoet hulle vir piekniek in die veld. Weer eens is Herman die man wat dinge reël. Heerlik!
Die middag neem Wiesman ons op ‘n ernstige 4×4 roete. Hy en Sampie begelei ons met die perde. Dis op na ‘n uitsigpunt wat uitkyk oor Moolmanshoek. Vir die swaar gelaaide Cruisers is dit nie maklik nie, maar uiteindelik kom ons tot bo. Hierdie is ‘n baie spesiale deel van die Vrystaat.
Terug by die opstal en Wiesman en Sampie doen vir ons die “horse run”. Dis meer as 100 Boerperde en Arabiere wat op die grasperk voor die lodge verby hardloop. Dit is indrukwekkend.
Die aand is dit weer Herman se beurt om ons te beïndruk. ‘n Ses gang maaltyd. Smoorsnoek, waterbok carpaccio… die een watertand gereg na die ander.
Moolmanshoek is ‘n spoggerige plek waar mens bederf word.
We start off with a cold week. How else? This is south-east Free State.
We visit Anton and Riekie Grimbeek on their farm Witkoppen in the Memel district. A beautiful place with sandstone houses. The lodge has room for 8 people in four double rooms. The kitchen/dining room has an enormous fireplace.
We meet Johannes Schoeman. He is Anton’s neighbour and also one of the best marksmen in South Africa. He came over to harvest a few blesbuck.
To many the shooting of animals is quite a sensitive issue. Fact is – an animal has to be killed before it can be consumed. A chicken must be decapitated, cattle and sheep slaughtered. Game must be shot. It is therefore essential to get a professional like Johannes.
Johannes shoots with a Blaser rifle. He only shoots headshots. The buck does not see it coming. So different to the abattoirs where the cattle are kept for a day or two listening to the bellowing of the others. By shooting headshots, no meat is wasted.
We do not consume enough venison in South Africa. It contains no hormones or antibiotics. Also, little fat. The healthiest meat you can find. If you harvest game the way Johannes does, the buck bleeds quickly which gets rid of the foreign taste that is usually disguised by cooking venison with heaps of cloves or yoghurt marinate.
To prove this – Johannes’s wife, Dianna, came over to cook for us. For lunch we have venison pies. Delicious. That evening she prepares springbuck and eland schnitzels. One of Anton’s other friends, Frank Oberholzer, cooks tongue. Venison tongue – an acquired taste, but even if you have never tasted it before – excellent.
Venison, if harvested correctly, is delicious. We also enjoy the visit around the fireside with good company and a glass of delicious Guardian Peak, Voetspore Frontier, as well as Beyers’s Trail Dust.
We are still unsure which was more beautiful – last night’s rising moon or this morning’s sunrise. The south-east Free State with its sandstone formations is spectacular.
Fanyana Sondezi and Josef Sello saddles up three horses for Streicher, Nina and Norbert. They go horse trailing along the sandstone cliffs, passing huge herds of blesbuck and black wildebeest – the clowns of the veld. They would graze lazily and then suddenly make a dash for a few metres. Come to a standstill, just to repeat this erratic behaviour.
After breakfast we say our goodbyes and depart for Memel. A beautiful route between lanes of cypresses.
In Memel we go to a church. Although it is Sunday, the church is unattended due to COVID 19. Ds. Fanus Coetzee comes to greet us. He tells us about his congregation and about the 1914 Rebellion which started in this district.
We also visit Graham Hatley on his farm Geduld which has an excellent view of the Seekoeivlei and the marsh area of the Memel district. The Vaalriver system, where water is filtered to be clean and pure, starts here.
From Memel we travel to Verkykerskop, pass Harrismith and Phuthaditjhaba to the Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. Here we meet Zee Ndaba, our guide for the following day. An enjoyable evening in her company and with Nina preparing a delicious meal of prawns, honey and ginger.
After coffee and rusks we depart. A difficult 4×4 route to the start of our hiking trail. Today we shall venture on a 14 km hike to the Drakensberg amphitheatre.
Zee is a very pleasant person with a wonderful sense of humour. But she takes hiking seriously. The humour persists, but the rules to ensure everybody’s safety are not to be taken lightly. One feels safe with her as a guide.
It is a zigzag route up the mountain. A challenge for the unfit. After three kilometres, we have a lookout over the amphitheatre. Spectacularly beautiful. Then onwards, up the mountain.
After 5 kilometres my fears come true – the chain ladder. This ladder, swinging while climbing, takes one 30 meters perpendicularly to the top. Nina really did us proud. Also, Gideon, Streicher, Norbert and Stefan. Then my turn. It is a well-known fact that I am not too comfortable with heights. And on top of it, a swinging ladder.
With Zee’s encouragement (“I don’t take ’no’ for an answer”) I risk the ladder. Initially the first 20 meters. Then a short break. Then the next 10 meters. It takes courage, but finally everybody reaches the top.
Next, a 2 kilometre hike on top of the Drakensberg, to the amphitheatre. On route – the start of the Tugela river. The water is pure and clear as glass. We fill our water bottles.
The view from the amphitheatre is exceptionally scenic. The Tugela Falls is the second highest waterfall in the world. Some claims it to be the highest and that the Angel Falls in Venezuela has been measured incorrectly. This hike is truly worth the effort.
But then we have to return – a complete hike of seven kilometres, including the swinging ladder.
On our return to the vehicles my smart phone indicated that we did not complete a 14 kilometre hike – but 18 km! No wonder it took us till six in the evening to complete. Everybody was tired and exhausted. Nevertheless – this was one of our most amazing Voetspore days ever!
The sunrise over the Drakensberg was once again exceptional.
We spent the night in Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge’s luxury rooms. Well worth the recommendation – even if you intend to hike or not.
In front of the lodge is a vulture restaurant. Carrion and carcasses are deposited for the birds. A ten-odd vultures make as appearance. Only the lammergeyer seems timid. Maybe intimidated by the cameras.
We say goodbye to Zee. Since it is her birthday, we give her a bottle of Voetspore wine. Johan and Magda from the lodge also come to greet us.
We continue further west, pass the impressive sandstone formations of the Golden Gate. It is impressive landscapes.
Lunch is at the Artist Cafe in Clarens. We meet up with Ollie Esplin. He started a business called Clarens Extreme. They offer abseiling, hang gliding, white river rafting, mountain hiking … quite a variety of adrenalin sports. After yesterday’s chain ladder we are not interested at present. Ollie also relates the history of the area and the activities it offers. We definitely have to return.
Later on, Ollie takes us to his camp where the guests overnight in ox wagons. He also takes us to Surrender Hill where Genl. Piet Cronjé surrendered to the British during the Anglo Boer War.
The sun sets over the Free State as we proceed to Moolmanshoek where we shall stay for the next few days.
It is extremely cold in the south Free State. In my room at the Moolmanshoek lodge, I switch on the underfloor heating, my electric blanket and light the fire in the fireplace.
Herman prepares breakfast. He is the chef at Moolmanshoek and will serve us for the rest of the day.
After breakfast, Uncle Willie Nel takes us on a 4×4 route through Moolmanshoek. Streicher and Nina are with his son Wiesman, his son Klein Willie, and Sampie, on horseback.
It is an excellent route and wildlife is in abundance. Black wildebeest, blesbuck, gemsbok, hartebeest,waterbuck, zebra … plains game. Willie explains how the game has to be managed on this property which 30 years ago was a marginal seed farm. Currently a very successful private game reserve.
The grass must be kept short in order for the plains game to be able to graze. Serious work had to be done to control erosion resulting in the return of the marshland. Willie also takes us to a place where the Africa bamboo has resettled.
Nina and Streicher enjoy every moment on horseback. These are Boerperd horses. Wiesman and Sampie are excellent guides. Last year they took part in the Mongol Derby in Mongolia. A 1 000 km endurance race – the world’s toughest equestrian race. Wiesman came second and Samie was appointed as “Rider of the Race”. Only 22 completed the race.
Together with Wiesman, Klein Willie and Sampie, Streicher and Nina trail the mountains of the Moolmanshoek on horseback.
We meet them in the veld for a picnic. Once again Herman entertains us. Delicious!
That afternoon Wiesman takes us on a serious 4×4 route. He and Sampie lead on horseback. We go to a lookout point with a view of Moolmanshoek. Not easy terrain for the heavy loaded Cruisers, but eventually we make it to the top. This is a special part of the Free State.
Back at the farmhouse and Wiesman and Sampie set up a “horse run”. More than 100 Boerperd- and Arab horses ran past the lodge on the lawn. Impressive.
That evening we are once again impressed by Herman’s cooking. A six-course meal. Smoorsnoek, waterbuck carpaccio… the one mouth-watering meal after the other.
Moolmanshoek is an exclusive venue where one is properly spoilt.
Dagboek: Week 4 Dagboek: Week 6