Salu (cloth)
Salu (variously transcribed in English as "sālū", "saloo", and archaically, "shallee", "shalloo", "shella", and "sallo") is a type of twill cloth, woven from cotton and dyed red, originally made in India. Prior to the introduction of modern industrial techniques, it was produced exclusively hand spun ("khaddar") yarns with locally-available dyes. Salu is one of seven cotton cloths explicitly mentioned in the 16th century Mughal record "Ain-i-Akbari", together with "khasa", "tansukh", "doriya", "bafta", "dupatta", and "panchtoliya". History & description. Salu appears to be an ancient fabric; trade references to the Persian market from Hindustan in the 14th  century are documented in the "Divan-i-Albisa" by Mawlānā Mahmud Nizan Qari. According to a 16th-century Mughal Empire record (Ain-i -Akbari), Salu cost two mohur per piece at that time. The original "salu" was made in India from materials sourced entirely in India, but a dyeing process introduced by refugees from the French Revolution using English-made cloth called "mārkīn" ("American") later became common India. Accordingly, "salu" has also been described as a red-colored "mārkīn" cloth by certain sources. Salu is distinguished by its red color, which is achieved through the use of Indian madder ("rubia  cordiofolia") in a red shade. Turkey red is one of the alizarin colours that can be extracted from Indian madder. Baden Henry Powell mentioned "salu" as a madder-dyed cloth in his book "Hand-book of the economic products of the Punjab, with a combined index and glossary of technical vernacular words." Use. "Salu" is used as a foundation cloth for embroidery alongside variants such as "markin", which is slightly coarser than "salu". "Salu" is also used in "kantha", which is an embroidery craft in Indian subcontinent. Embroidered with silk threads, it is a popular type in Punjabi weddings. The  famous red "salu" was used for ladies' dresses, borders of ladies coats, turbans, and curtains. It is also known as Saloo in Punjab and is also used as a veil or wrapper.