Maravilha bem brasileira
Autor: astral | Publicado: 2012-01-25T15:56:00-08:00

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 <![endif]-->  Pesquisadores da USP (Universidade de São Paulo) em Ribeirão Preto desenvolveram um filtro solar que, além de proteger contra os efeitos nocivos da radiação ultravioleta, melhora a textura e a elasticidade da pele, estimula a renovação celular, hidrata e diminui as rugas. 

Segundo informações da Agência Fapesp, a fórmula é uma combinação de dois tipos de substâncias fotoprotetoras com extratos vegetais de Ginkgo biloba e de algas marinhas vermelhas. Também foram adicionadas as vitaminas A, C e E. 

As vitaminas foram acrescentadas para estimular a renovação celular e melhorar as condições gerais da pele, elaborando assim um creme multifuncional, segundo a farmacêutica Patrícia Maia Campos, coordenadora da pesquisa. 

- Em pesquisas anteriores, havíamos confirmado que alguns extratos vegetais eram capazes de melhorar as condições da pele fotoenvelhecida e de torná-la menos vulnerável aos danos da radiação. Então, tivemos a ideia de associar esses extratos a filtros solares, para potencializar o efeito protetor. 

O primeiro passo do projeto foi desenvolver uma formulação com filtros fotoestáveis, ou seja, capazes de permanecer ativos na presença da luz, com fator de proteção solar (FPS) 20. Para isso, foram combinados filtros químicos (orgânicos), compostos por moléculas capazes de absorver os raios ultravioleta e transformá-los em raios de baixa energia inofensivos à pele, e filtros físicos (inorgânicos), que refletem a radiação e impedem sua penetração. 

- Adicionamos então extratos vegetais e vitaminas. Testamos várias combinações de ingredientes. O desafio foi criar um produto com características sensoriais adequadas, pois, se você fizer um creme muito gorduroso ou que não espalha, ninguém usa. 

Em parceria com o laboratório francês Evic, a compatibilidade dérmica do produto foi avaliada e se atestou sua segurança para uso cosmético. Nesse momento da pesquisa, em 2008, um dos trabalhos do grupo foi apresentado no Congresso da Sociedade Internacional de Químicos Cosméticos, em Barcelona, na Espanha. 

Os resultados chamaram a atenção de pesquisadores do Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Épidermiques et Sensorielles da empresa francesa Chanel. 

- Eles nos convidaram para visitar o centro e firmamos uma parceria. Com a participação de minha aluna de doutorado Mirela Donato Gianeti, investigamos se a formulação também protegia contra grandes variações climáticas e o resultado foi muito positivo. 

Graças à presença dos extratos vegetais, a pele das voluntárias ficou livre de danos tanto no alto verão como no inverno e também em condições de mudança brusca de temperatura. 

Paralelamente, foi avaliada a influência do creme na percepção tátil das voluntárias. 

Essa sensibilidade, explicou a especialista, fica prejudicada na pele envelhecida. 

- A formulação melhorou a hidratação e a função barreira da pele, ou seja, diminuiu a perda de água na camada mais superficial. Isso resultou em uma melhora da percepção tátil, pois trouxe de volta as condições de uma pele saudável. 
Segundo Patricia, a fórmula está pronta para ser comercializada, mas ainda não houve contatos com empresas do setor nesse sentido. 

Parte da pesquisa foi publicada na revista científica Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 

Testes feitos com camundongos mostraram que o produto desenvolvido na USP em Ribeirão Preto reduziu a presença das proteínas p53 e caspase-3, marcadores genéticos que indicam dano celular causado pela radiação. 

- Houve ainda menor produção da enzima metaloproteinase, que destrói o colágeno e deixa a pele flácida. 

Em uma segunda etapa feita com voluntárias humanas, avaliou-se a ação do creme em tempo real, por meio de técnicas de biofísica e imagem da pele. Também foi usada uma técnica chamada microscopia confocal de reflectância a laser, que permite ver as alterações celulares sem o uso de biópsias. 

- Foi possível observar uma hidratação profunda e melhora na aparência da pele com duração aproximada de 8 horas. Também melhorou significativamente a função barreira e a textura da pele. 

Os testes com a microscopia confocal ainda não estão concluídos, mas, segundo a pesquisadora, já foi possível perceber que o produto aumentou a espessura da camada granulosa da pele. Isso pode estar associado a um maior estímulo à renovação celular. 

Em todas as etapas, foi testada não apenas a formulação completa, mas também versões que continham apenas os filtros e uma das substâncias ativas em estudo. 

- Queríamos avaliar o benefício de cada uma e as vantagens de usar a formulação completa. 

A combinação dos filtros com as algas marinhas vermelhas foi a que mais reduziu a presença das proteínas p53 e caspase-3, ou seja, a que mais evitou danos celulares. A combinação com o Ginkgo biloba foi a que mais protegeu a função barreira da pele. 

Já a fórmula que tinha apenas os filtros e as vitaminas aumentou a perda de água na camada superficial. Segundo a pesquisadora, isso provavelmente está ligado ao aumento da renovação celular estimulado pelas vitaminas A e C. 

- Por isso é importante acrescentar os extratos vegetais para compensar. 

Quanto maior a perda de água, mais frágil e sensível fica a pele. Isso não apenas facilita a penetração da luz ultravioleta, mas também favorece doenças como a dermatite de contato e o eczema tópico. 

De acordo com a pesquisadora, a formulação completa foi a que mais hidratou e protegeu a função barreira da pele, melhorando também a aparência e diminuindo as rugas e a aspereza. Mas ela alerta que o produto é para ser usado no dia a dia e não quando a exposição ao sol for intensa, como na praia ou piscina. 

- A radiação solar acelera a proliferação celular. É uma forma de o organismo tentar se defender, deixando a pele mais espessa. Mas isso ocorre de forma tão rápida que, para evitar os danos ao DNA, ocorre a apoptose, ou morte celular programada. 
Para exposição solar intensa, completou ela, o protetor solar deve ter no máximo substâncias antioxidantes, como o Ginkgo biloba e vitamina E.
- http://noticias.r7.com/saude/
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