Uma semana em Sampa
Autor: Tércia Montenegro | Publicado: 2013-03-25T08:28:00-07:00

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UMA SEMANA EM SAMPA



O
motivo inicial era assistir à linda peça O trem das onze, uma nova adaptação
que o Lucas Sancho fez, do meu livro Linha Férrea – mas é claro que achei
vários pretextos para visitar São Paulo. Experimentei a cidade como nunca havia
feito: participei da passeata “Fora, Feliciano”, fui a um ensaio de concerto
(para ouvir a missa glagolítica de Leos Janácek, sob a regência de Osmo Vänskä),
empolguei-me com os páreos do Jóquei Clube (apesar de não ter ganho qualquer
aposta) e me passei por arquiteta para entrar na Vila Penteado. 

Óbvio
que também fui a museus – e lá estavam Monet, Rembrandt, Goya e Velázquez,
quase me pondo de joelhos em pleno Masp. No Ibirapuera, depois de ser ameaçada
por uma mãe-cisne (eu fotografava os seus filhotes muito de perto), entrei na
Oca, onde os “tesouros do Vaticano” se exibiam: pinturas e bustos de papas,
galhetas preciosíssimas e casulas bordadas a ouro, píxides e missais. Isso
aconteceu justamente no dia em que o argentino Francisco fazia os jornais do
mundo inteiro ficarem idênticos. 

“Vou
te comprar um bebezinho da Seven Boys”, disse o meu namorado, e por um segundo
pensei em tráfico de crianças ou, na melhor das hipóteses, um boneco
infantilóide que eu deveria aceitar, com um sorriso. Felizmente, aquele era
apenas o termo paulista para indicar um bolinho de mel ou maçã. Em culinária,
aliás, São Paulo é uma coisa à parte: da boa pizza com os amigos até o shimeji
na Liberdade, tudo merece elogios enfáticos. A capital dos excessos deve estar
acostumada – o superlativo anda nos metrôs, com as enchentes humanas
pontilhando escadas; a hipérbole agiganta prédios espelhados, de lojas e
serviços incalculáveis.

Mas
eu estava interessada na cidade histórica, principalmente. Havia começado o
itinerário pelo cemitério da Consolação, onde Álvares de Azevedo transitava (e
talvez hoje ali passe, como fantasma). O mapa indicou os locais em que Mário e
Oswald de Andrade, Lobato, Tarsila do Amaral e Paulo Emílio Salles Gomes foram
enterrados. Este último, cineasta, foi o grande companheiro de Lygia Fagundes
Telles. Em homenagem a ela, visitei também a Faculdade de Direito do Largo São
Francisco – a San Fran –, onde Lygia estudou. Na praça, conforme os relatos da escritora,
notei a placa comemorativa ao Álvares de Azevedo, mas com a cabeça trocada pela
de outro romântico, Fagundes Varela. E, como as nuvens conspiram a favor,
quando saía da Catedral, meio estonteada com as abóbadas longuíssimas, ainda
encontrei a sede da OAB que traz o nome de Goffredo Telles, o primeiro marido
de Lygia...

Em
Sampa também vi ótimos filmes, topei com uma escultura da Louise Bourgeois, um
painel dos Gêmeos, um desfile de naturiciclismo – tudo isso em cinco dias. Mas
a cidade é tão intensa que, se agora eu lá voltasse, descobriria outros
inesgotáveis temas de susto e aprendizado.





Tércia
Montenegro (crônica publicada hoje no jornal O Povo)