Saltos do Paraná
Autor: Tércia Montenegro | Publicado: 2013-03-13T04:35:00-07:00

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SALTOS
DO PARANÁ



Prudentópolis não cabe
numa crônica: é por isso que volto ao tema. Para além de suas belezas
ucranianas, esta terra é conhecida pelas cachoeiras gigantes e pela festa
nacional do feijão preto, em agosto. Como viajei no carnaval, deixei de
conhecer a hiperbólica feijoada (que, dizem, já entrou nos recordes) – mas, em
compensação, tirei um dia inteiro para andar pela zona rural. Avisei ao guia do
meu interesse por igrejas bizantinas, incrustadas nas áreas agrícolas e
faxinais. Óbvio, porém, que não fiquei imune aos encantos da paisagem. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 

Aprendi a distinguir as
cores das plantações de soja, café e fumo. “As folhas do fumo são amarelas; depois
de colhido, o produto vai para a estufa até ficar seco e quebradiço. Em
seguida, a empresa tabagista lhe acrescenta umas quinhentas substâncias
cancerígenas e o prepara para a venda” – comentou o guia, enquanto acelerava o
jipe. Estávamos a caminho do Salto São João, passando pelo povoado Galícia, com
sua bela igreja de São Miguel em frente a uma casa de jardim colorido por
hortênsias e crianças loiras.

Enchi meus olhos com
outras flores, dálias, girassóis – e mais eucaliptos e pinheiros às margens do
caminho. Rumo ao Salto São Sebastião, plantações de milho nas encostas íngremes
deram origem à expressão “plantar com espingarda e colher com laço”, mostrando o
esforço de semear em ângulos tão difíceis. Mas aquela era a Serra da Esperança,
então tudo podia acontecer, inclusive o aparecimento da Igreja da
Transfiguração de Nosso Senhor, redonda, com cinco cúpulas brilhando de luxo
numa zona agrícola...

Estava chovendo, e a
trilha que nos levava à principal atração, o Salto São Francisco, cobriu-se de
lama. Eu me agarrava a galhos e pedras, tentando não voltar com uma fratura
exposta. Em certa altura do trecho, usei um cajado como bengala, sentindo-me
uma espécie de feiticeira e lembrando que Visconde de Taunay por ali passara em
1886, também debaixo de forte chuva. Tentava me motivar, pensando que o autor
de Inocência
avançara por 6 km a pé “em local muito escabroso e difícil”, conforme escreveu
no livro Paisagens brasileiras.

Quando finalmente
contemplei o Salto gigante, com quase duzentos metros de queda, senti o êxtase do
viajante realizado. Num segundo, a neblina se desfez, abrindo a visão da
chapada com seu véu de água interminável. Aí a natureza me disse coisas na
linguagem da imensidão – que, ao contrário do que se pensa, é muito discreta e
suave.&nbsp; 



Tércia Montenegro
(crônica publicada hoje no jornal O Povo)