Espeleologia contemporânea na Eslovênia
Autor: Daniel De Stefano Menin | Publicado: 2016-10-15T15:21:00-03:00


Por Rafael Camargo

Morando em Berlim há mais de
três anos, tenho ido para caverna bem pouco. A geologia de Berlim e região é
composta apenas de depósitos de areia e cascalho das últimas glaciações, nada
de carste por aqui. As cavernas mais próximas estão na região da Saxônia Suíça
(Sächsische Schweiz), próximo à Dresden, mas em arenito e em geral pequenas. Ou
nas Montanhas Harz, em uma região cárstica pequena, mas muito interessante. No
entanto, os espeleólogos de lá não fazem muito mais explorações, fazem
basicamente monitoramento, legal, mas não exatamente o que eu mais gosto. 

Explorações de verdade na
Alemanha são nos Alpes, perto da divisa com a Áustria. Mas se é para ir para o
sul da Alemanha, então dá para ir para Eslovênia, ainda melhor! O país é sempre
mencionado pelo carste clássico e longa tradição em espeleologia, mas isso não
para por aí. Mesmo estando em um território pequeno (menor em área que o estado
do Sergipe), espeleólogos continuam fazendo grandes descobertas. Somente em uma
região, em Kanin por exemplo, há sete cavernas mais profundas que -1000m. Uma
delas, o sistema BC4 – Mala Boka, é uma travessia de mais de 8km e -1300m de
desnível. No mês de agosto, a convite de Matt Covington e Matic Di Batista,
tive a oportunidade de participar em duas expedições com o grupo espeleológico
DZRJL de Ljubljana e pude presenciar como eles organizam a bagunça deles.

Primeiramente, para ter
permissão de ir para caverna (se tornar um espeleólogo) na Eslovênia é preciso
frequentar um curso de formação teórico-prático e passar em um exame prático ao
final. Os cursos são ministrados pelos grupos de espeleologia, são em média de
dois meses de duração com encontros a noite durante a semana e saídas de campo
nos finais de semana. No caso de estrangeiros, precisamos comprovar experiência
em técnicas verticais, noções básicas de conservação de ambientes cavernícolas,
bem como ser associado à alguma instituição de espeleologia reconhecida
internacionalmente ou afiliada da UIS. Para nós brasileiros, ser filiados à SBE
ou à algum grupo filiado é o suficiente. – Inclusive, obrigado Marcelo Rasteiro,
presidente da SBE, pela carta de referência – Então depois de passar no exame
final do curso ou comprovar experiência, um certificado é emitido pela
Secretaria de Meio Ambiente da Eslovênia atestando que a pessoa tem treinamento
adequado para praticar espeleologia de forma autônoma. Este procedimento é
provavelmente o que tem garantido explorações de alto nível técnico e sem
acidentes. O DZRJL de Ljubljana, por exemplo, tem mais de 100 anos de
atividades (foi fundado em 1910) e até hoje nunca teve nenhum acidente sério.









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<!--StartFragment-->Panorâmica
do platô do Monte Kanin


A primeira expedição que
participei foi no platô do Monte Kanin (2587m), nos Alpes Julianos, divisa entre
Eslovênia e Itália. O DZRJL organiza no mínimo uma grande expedição por ano
nesta área, geralmente em julho/agosto, no verão europeu. Desde 1956 eles têm
um local para acampamento base à aproximadamente 2000m onde um abrigo de
paredes de pedra e cobertura de lona é montado. O abrigo serve como cozinha
comunitária e local de convivência onde todos se reúnem durante café da manhã e
jantar e também para se proteger das fortes tempestades. É impressionante a
quantidade de equipamentos que eles têm lá em cima na montanha. Algumas coisas
ficam lá mesmo, estocadas em uma pequena caverna, mas na maioria das vezes eles
têm apoio de um helicóptero do exército transportando muita coisa, inclusive
caixas e caixas de cerveja, bastante o suficiente para todos ficarem bêbado
quase todas as noites e ainda deixar algumas estocadas para o próximo ano. Mas
é claro que cada um sobe com com sua mochila de aproximadamente 30kg,
carregando barraca, saco de dormir, equipamentos individuais e um pouco do
coletivo, além de comida e alguma bebida, é claro. Eu levei uma cachaça mineira,
evaporou em meia hora.










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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
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<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Trilha
para o acampamento (1000m em ganho de altitude +30 kg)<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  8
  47
  ici
  1
  1
  54
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  EN-US
  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<!--StartFragment-->Aproveitando
o sol para secar um pouco os equipamentos


Este ano os trabalhos se concentraram
basicamente na continuação das explorações e mapeamentos de duas cavernas já
conhecidas, Surouka e P4, e em prospecção na superfície. Surouka tinha em torno
de 2km mapeados e -350m de desnível. Este ano foram mapeados mais algumas
centenas de metros de labirintos freáticos nos níveis superiores e
aproximadamente -50m de desnível no fundo até atingir um sifão. No entanto, a
equipe identificou que o fluxo de ar continua por outra passagem e trabalhos
podem continuar nas próximas expedições. P4 estava em -470m de desnível e
depois de dois dias de desobstruções teve mais uma série de abismos mapeados
até atingir o desnível de -650m onde há várias possibilidades de continuação. Na
superfície, a prospecção também foi recompensadora, resultou principalmente na (re)descoberta
de uma caverna que estava marcada como inacessível/preenchida de neve por
trabalhos anteriores, mas que neste ano estava sem neve alguma. Aquecimento
global tem suas vantagens, não?! Foi necessário desobstruir um pouco a entrada,
mas depois a caverna (TA1) foi mapeada até -200m de desnível, até a equipe ficar
sem cordas para continuar.&nbsp; 

Quando menciono
desobstruções (digging) isso significa
trabalho duro, movendo quantidade significativa de material, alargando
passagens onde não era possível passar nem mesmo os mais magros e
contorcionistas, mas que é esperado uma continuação por causa do fluxo de ar.
Quem conhece o Buraco da Sopradeira em São Desidério-BA, sabe do que estou
falando. Porém, tais avanços não seriam possíveis sem as gambiarras feitas nas
furadeiras e baterias e principalmente sem “cepivo”, o terceiro membro. Acima
de tudo é preciso ter criatividade e persistência, com certeza.









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<!--StartFragment-->Equipamento
básico para exploração de cavernas na Eslovênia<!--EndFragment-->








É importante mencionar
também o belo trabalho em grupo. Equipes se revezam entre dias pesados no fundo
das cavernas e dias mais tranquilos na superfície para descanso ou transportando
centenas e centenas de metros de corda e ancoragens para as cavernas. No
entanto, não há coordenação alguma, cada um decide por si próprio em qual
equipe se sente bem em se juntar naquele dia, mas no final todos se ajudam.
Inclusive os membros mais de idade, que já diminuíram um pouco o ritmo,
continuam contribuindo de outras formas. Transportam suprimentos, consertam
alguma coisa, mantêm diários de campo ou apenas tomam cerveja e compartilham
suas experiências com os mais jovens. Este é um aspecto muito interessante por
sinal. Mas para falar a verdade, alguns caras de 60-70 que conheci lá são ainda
caverneiros hard core. O DZRJL tem por volta de 25 membros MUITO ativos (vão
para caverna quase todo final de semana), mas de forma geral são 100 membros ativos,
variando entre 18 e 70 anos e eles continuam se renovando (graças ao curso
anual de formação), fato não muito comum em outros países de forma geral, onde
a comunidade espeleológica vem apenas envelhecendo e pendurando a carbureteira.









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<!--StartFragment-->Local
de reunião do grupo todas as noites<!--EndFragment-->








Depois da expedição de uma
semana e meia em Kanin foi necessário passar um dia em Ljubljana para compra de
suprimentos e reorganização dos equipamentos na sede do DZRJL (que fica em um
bunker – antigo abrigo da 2a Guerra Mundial). Falando em
equipamentos para as expedições, é impressionante a quantidade de equipamentos
do grupo. Bobinas e bobinas de corda, caixas e caixas de ancoragens e
mosquetões, furadeiras, geradores, utensílios para os acampamentos base e os de
dentro das cavernas profundas. Sem falar que eles emprestam equipamento
individual (SRT kit, capacete e iluminação) por até um ano para os recém
formados do curso todo ano. Incentivo essencial para iniciantes que são estudantes
na maioria das vezes.

É claro que a contribuição
dos membros (30 euros por ano) não é o suficiente para manter a quantidade de
equipamentos que eles precisam para as explorações, que são essencialmente
verticais e demandam muito equipamento. Na Eslovênia há um tipo de recompensa
financeira para os grupos espeleológicos que divulgam seus dados
espeleométricos, em forma de relatório anual para a Secretaria de Meio
Ambiente, onde eles mantêm um banco de dados nacional. Quanto mais metros
mapeados (documentados e reportados), mais dinheiro para o grupo. O DZRJL, por
exemplo, recebe cerca de 6 mil euros por ano.









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<!--StartFragment-->Acampamento
base do DZRJL no platô do Monte Kanin. Foto: Domagoj Korais


Equipamentos necessários
todos reunidos, seguimos para a outra expedição, no platô de Pokljuka, nas
proximidades do famoso monte Viševnik, no Parque Nacional Triglav. Os trabalhos
nesta área começaram só em 2010 quando Matt Covington, um americano que fazia
pós-doutorado no Instituto do Carste ZRC em Postojna, encontrou a primeira
possível entrada de caverna. Era apenas ar soprando entre alguns blocos, talvez
nem poderia ser chamado de buraco (blowing
hole). Prospecção em carste alpino é um pouco peculiar. A melhor época é no
inverno, quando as montanhas estão cobertas de neve e as entradas são mais
fáceis de serem identificadas uma vez que o ar relativamente quente de dentro
das cavernas sopra (para fora) e derrete a neve na entrada, que então se
distingue na paisagem. No verão o trabalho seria verificando fissura por
fissura, sem saber ao certo se há potencial ou não. Mas é depois de identificar
os blowing holes que o trabalho
pesado começa. Na maioria das vezes eles não são acessíveis, o ar passa entre
as fissuras e blocos, mas muito trabalho é necessário desobstruindo as
entradas. Euclides, a primeira caverna encontrada em Pokljuka, por exemplo,
precisou de cinco saídas de final de semana, grupo de 4 a 8 pessoas, revezando
na escavação e passando blocos de mão em mão até conseguir realmente acessar a
caverna que hoje tem cerca de 2km e -430m de desnível. Mas é claro que foi
necessária muita desobstrução em vários outros trechos da caverna, não somente
na entrada. 









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<!--StartFragment-->Pausa
durante exploração (escalada) em Trubar


A expedição em Pokljuka
continuou principalmente com explorações nas três principais cavernas da área:
Euclides, Platon (2km, -575m) e Trubar (5km, -610m), que provavelmente fazem
parte do mesmo sistema. As conexões estão muito próximas de acontecer (Platon e
Trubar estão cerca de 20m distância horizontal ou 100m vertical), mas ao mesmo
tempo muito distantes por causa da dificuldade das explorações. Em Trubar, por
exemplo, ficamos acampados a -560m para depois continuar as explorações em busca
da conexão com Platon, mas a exploração é na verdade fazendo escalada em rocha.
Explorações anteriores já tinham escalado +300m a partir do Camp -560m e nesta expedição escalamos
mais +100m. No final daquele dia estávamos mais perto da superfície do que do Camp, mas tínhamos que descer os 400m e
depois no outro dia jumariar os 560m, sem falar dos estreitos e doloridos
meandros.
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<!--StartFragment-->



























<!--EndFragment-->

No final das três semanas na
Eslovênia era hora de voltar para casa. A experiência foi fantástica. As
cavernadas mesmo que difíceis, molhadas e geladas, valeram muito a pena. Apesar
de ter levado a tralha toda de fotografia não tive oportunidade de fotografar
as cavernas, o foco era exploração e mapeamento e o ritmo foi intenso o tempo
todo. Mas algumas fotos do acampamento e da paisagem dá para ter uma ideia. Os
Eslovenos são super receptivos e animados para beber. Tanto é que meu presente
de despedida foi uma garrafa de schnapps,
aguardente de frutas, um típico em cada região da Eslovênia, além do convite
para voltar. Quem se anima?









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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:12.0pt;
 font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Acampamento
base do DZRJL no platô do Monte Kanin<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  2
  13
  ici
  1
  1
  14
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  EN-US
  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
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 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
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<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Espeleo-cowboy<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  2
  18
  ici
  1
  1
  19
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  EN-US
  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
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 font-size:12.0pt;
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 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Pico
do Monte Kanin<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  4
  25
  ici
  1
  1
  28
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
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<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

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<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Lado
italiano do Monte Kanin<!--EndFragment-->
















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  8
  51
  ici
  1
  1
  58
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  EN-US
  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
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<!--StartFragment-->Acampamento
de outro grupo, também no platô do Monte Kanin<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
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  1
  11
  66
  ici
  1
  1
  76
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

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table.MsoNormalTable
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<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Visita
ao acampamento vizinho para troca de informação e degustação de vinho<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  5
  35
  ici
  1
  1
  39
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
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 font-family:Calibri;
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 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Dia
de chuva no acampamento em Pokljuka<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  3
  20
  ici
  1
  1
  22
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
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  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:12.0pt;
 font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Prospecção
em Pokljuka<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  5
  34
  ici
  1
  1
  38
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  EN-US
  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
 <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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  LatentStyleCount="276">
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
  
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
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<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
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 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:12.0pt;
 font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-ansi-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->



<!--StartFragment-->Cozinha
e sala de estar no acampamento<!--EndFragment-->















<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  0
  0
  1
  18
  107
  ici
  1
  1
  124
  14.0
 
 
  
  96
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  EN-US
  JA
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<!--StartFragment-->Trubar_profile:
Perfil da topografia de Trubar. Final da exploração em Agosto/2016 está à
poucas dezenas de metros de Platon<!--EndFragment-->