MFM is back! FREY: cracks, beach and wine
Autor: Leo Santiago | Publicado: 2013-02-18T11:38:00-03:00


Para ver em português, acesse: http://firstmountain.blogspot.com.br/2013/02/mfm-is-back-frey-fendas-praia-e-vinho.html

The
 fingers burn, brought little food for the camp and we do not take a 
bath in three days. Everything becomes irrelevant when you look at the 
spectacular view of the granite needles around the emerald Frey lake´s.

A year and a half after the first high mountain in Bolivia, a 
willingness to explore new boundaries in different climb styles resulted
 in a new journey: the Cerro Catedral, or better known as the zone of refuge Frey.
 For those who don´t know, Frey is one of the most famous traditional 
climbing crags in Argentina. At the foot of Patagonia, the place has 
more than 50 granite needles! With high quality routes, a refuge with a 
good humor team and climbers from around the world camped around the 
lake. The weather is almost indescribable. The Frey is a school, not 
only for the sport, but the culture and lifestyle of climbing.



Substitutions
 were made - this time the team had the originals Bruno Senna, Caê 
Benfica and Leo Santiago, and new Breno Rates and Daniel Carvalho, aka 
Popo.

This time, it was a trip of pure climbing, alpine 
adventure. Planning stuck to a list and meetings in pubs about what to 
bring, which obviously resulted in unforeseen, improvisations and 
sacrifices, like leaving half of luggage in Bariloche, by the 
impossibility to load everything into the refuge. Notice to mariners, 
take only what you really need, because it is hard to let go of things 
that are already there or cutting your book in half (removing the read 
pages) to reduce weight.

In Bariloche, city where the flight 
arrives and one purchases food for the camp, we estimate that the 5 
together totaled about 160kg of equipment, clothing and food. How to 
come up with all this stuff? In this season it has been forbidden the 
use of horses or mules for tourists - just the Refuge can use to climb 
with supplies and get the trash down. We were forced to get two 
human-porters to distribute the weight and still left over 18kg. 
Solution? recruit the girlfriend of one of the porters - which was 
really embarrassing! the chica got the backpack, and said it was ok!

To get there, it is just take a bus to the ski resort of Cerro 
Catedral, and three and a half hour walk uphill as workhorses. Once 
there, the reward: the Refugio Frey, a cold beer at room temperature, 
and the hallucinatory landscape of the 50 needles around him.

The North Face Mansion (it can not be called simply as a tent), which 
was installed in a position sheltered from strong winds, had to endure 
heavy. Neighboring tents were ripped off.  But as this house has no 
eaves, we were very quiet to let concerns only at the wall.




The
 day to day there is something! The slogan is tanning. Sleep is 
comfortable, wake up with the sun baking the tent, outside the wind asks
 you to good clothing, breakfast in our makeshift kitchen and expanded 
to six comfortable seats. Then, climber´s community meeting beside the 
shelter, exchange tips and ideas, organizing equipment, and get up for 
climbing! Between 40' and 3 hours of walking, you're in any of the major
 needles, with 3 stars routes. At the end of the day everyone returns to
 the refuge, taste a good shared wine, discuss the achievements, some 
venture on the guitar when it's cold and all squeeze in the cafeteria 
for warmth.





The
 official trios were Cae + Bruno + Leo and Breno + Popo + Victor (São 
Paulo, firefighter rescuer and very good person we found there, always 
with good mood, and with the security that if some shit happens, the 
rescue was already there).





We´ve climbed TOP routes, three stars whenever possible, on the needles:

1 - The Needle Frey, who faces the shelter, with 5 min. walk, our first
 crack with the right to night climb with full moon, and repetitions in 
the rain.






Bruno and Leo celebrating the first ascent in Frey




Breno in his first route in Frey












2
 - The Principal - having heard of the majesty of the name, the Main 
needle of Frey resonated in our minds. Everyone wanted to reach the 
summit more important and some members even claimed that would get 
emotional on the summit. It is one of the most distant, with 3h walk on 
loose stones, it took us 12 hours to climb and descend ... coming for 
more than 1:00 in the morning at camp. Still, greeted with applause by 
party staff, which waited us with a bottle of wine to celebrate the day 
of glory!























3
 - M2, with one of the most fun summits, even with a short route, the 
route has an amazing visual, with a background composed by Frey and his 
emerald lake.











4 - La Vieja, with a 3 * route more demanding and astonishing.






5 - Slovenian Campanille, with one of the most incredible landscapes and presented by a Condor flight; 







After
 a day of hard climbing, or half a day, or nothing, always there is the 
option of Playa Frey. With no wind, and strong sun, nothing better than 
taking a dip in the defrost lake in front of the shelter, with the 
option of a slack line impossible to take three steps for mere juniors 
in the sport.

&nbsp;Crack-Glove  (compulsory purchase, you find in Adrena Aventura)


Glove for those who faltered and did not buy the glove.





&nbsp;Abuelo











Marquinho, Brazilian climber and godfather of the expedition.




















Bruno and his "reduced" book 



Leo trying to memorize the music created in Refuge





&nbsp; Vasco, the soul of the refuge Frey







We managed to endure for seven consecutive 
days, with an odor of baby-wipes masking stinky feet, a lot of climbing,
 tuff crags, tanning, jokes, music, wines and beers, pizzas and 
Macarrones. But no one is made of iron, and we deserved to eat a first 
quality steak of Chorizo, back in Bariloche! Until someday, Frey!



Para ver em português, acesse: http://firstmountain.blogspot.com.br/2013/02/mfm-is-back-frey-fendas-praia-e-vinho.html

For portuguese version, access: http://firstmountain.blogspot.com.br/2013/02/mfm-is-back-frey-fendas-praia-e-vinho.html