CATAGUASES, DE MEU PAI E HUMBERTO MAURO
Autor: Tecelã | Publicado: 2017-02-03T20:20:00-02:00

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Ponte sobre o Rio Pomba


Embarquei rumo
a Cataguases, nas Minas Gerais, movida por dois amores: por meu pai, nascido lá
há quase 100 anos, e pelo cinema. Meu pai, na verdade, cresceu na vizinha
Leopoldina e, ainda bem jovem, veio para o Rio. Eu não tinha referência alguma
para rastrear as origens do seu Wilson (os velhinhos vão partindo e com eles as
memórias...), mas queria estar naquela cidade, imaginar como teria sido sua
passagem por ali nos primeiros anos de vida.









Vinte anos antes
de meu pai, nascia Humberto Mauro (1897-1983), um gênio do cinema. Merecia todas
as homenagens e poderia ser um grande atrativo para a cidade se os gestores
públicos enxergassem o valor da história, do patrimônio, da cultura para o
turismo. E o valor do turismo para a economia de um município, gerando
empregos, estimulando artesãos e empresários, turbinando negócios. Foi em
Cataguases que Humberto Mauro realizou seus filmes com extrema paixão e
criatividade nas primeiras décadas do século XX.









Para minha
decepção e tristeza, encontrei uma cidade maltratada, como muitas outras por
onde já passei nas minhas andanças por esse Brasil (e o Rio de Janeiro não está
fora disso, apesar das obras olímpicas). Apurei, nas minhas conversas aqui e
ali, que o prefeito havia perdido a reeleição e por isso a cidade estava tão
abandonada. Na verdade, me pareceu que a coisa vem de mais tempo. Seguindo pelo
calçadão rumo à antiga estação de trem, o que encontro é quase caos, muito
lixo, trânsito desordenado, carros ocupando o lugar de pessoas. Gente que
parece estar desamparada, sem trabalho, alguns pedem dinheiro. A poeira aumenta
ainda mais o calor que é forte na região. Triste.









Um antigo vagão
de trem na praça da estação é um ponto de venda de artesanato, mas, devido a
seu mau estado, as peças expostas são frequentemente danificadas pela chuva que
entra pelo teto, me contou uma artesã. Tão pouco seria preciso para ajudar a
essa gente a ganhar dignamente seu sustento com suas artes...





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Na Praça Rui
Barbosa, o histórico cine Edgard está fechado e em péssimo estado. O prédio abriga um curso
preparatório. Aos sábados, há na praça uma pequena feira de artesanato, não
havia muito movimento por ali. Uma das artesãs, com quem conversei mais
demoradamente, preserva a memória da cidade em panos de copa com bordados que retratam
pontos característicos, como a ponte de ferro e o santuário de Santa Rita. Ela,
e outras pessoas também, me contou que peças históricas que havia na cidade desapareceram
“misteriosamente”. Devem estar decorando a casa de alguma “autoridade”.






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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
  
  
 
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-qformat:yes;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}

<![endif]-->



Outra bela
construção, a Fiação e Tecelagem Cataguases, virou o Bahamas Shopping, onde
funciona também um supermercado.&nbsp;






<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  21
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  PT-BR
  X-NONE
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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  LatentStyleCount="267">
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
  
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
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A área nas
imediações do Hotel
Cataguases, na Rua Major Vieira, onde me hospedei, até que está cuidada. Há
uma bonita praça e o belo santuário de Santa Rita, que ostenta um precioso
mural de Djanira na fachada. A ponte de
ferro sobre o Rio Pomba fica a poucos metros.
















Paço Municipal




Santuário de Santa Rita












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Além de
Humberto Mauro, outro atrativo de Cataguases é a arquitetura modernista.
Disseram-me que a cidade recebe estudantes de Arquitetura com frequência. Enquanto
escrevia este artigo, encontrei um site sobre o &nbsp;CATS 2016, um encontro de Arquitetura, Turismo e
Sustentabilidade, realizado na cidade dois meses antes de minha visita. Que
renda bons frutos!



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<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

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 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
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 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
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 mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
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<![endif]-->



O Hotel
Cataguases denota que já teve um passado mais feliz. Hoje, os sinais de
decadência são evidentes, ainda que guarde o charme dos anos 1950 (a obra foi
concluída em 1951) e a beleza sinuosa dos traços que caracterizam a arquitetura
da época. Os funcionários se esforçam para manter o padrão de melhor hotel da
cidade. 






&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 


<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  
  
 
<![endif]-->


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  false
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Há vários
outros prédios de interesse arquitetônico, histórico e artístico na cidade,
como o Colégio Cataguases, o Museu da Eletricidade, a casa de Francisco Inácio
Peixoto (projeto de Oscar Niemeyer), a residência Nanzita Salgado, sobre os
quais não consegui informações claras sobre localização e horário de visita. Alguns
fecham nos fins de semana. O que apurei, pesquisando para esta matéria, foi em
sites e blogs.









Nas duas
noites que passei na cidade, fui a dois bares diferentes para comer (o Hotel
não serve refeições). Havia bastante gente e música ao vivo, música boa. Aliás,
o mesmo músico se apresentava, na sexta na Pizzaria D’Angelo (Av. Astolfo
Dutra) e sábado no Confrarias, um bar de estilo roqueiro e com pôster do Che,
na mesma rua do Hotel. Encontrei o jeito acolhedor do mineiro em ambos e a
comida também valeu a pena. Almocei no Girassol, pertinho do Cine Edgard, uma comidinha a quilo honesta,
ainda que sem muitas opções. Todos indicação do Dênis, amável recepcionista do Hotel.



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No meio da
agitação e poluição visual da Rua Coronel Vieira, quase escondido, fica o
Centro Cultural Humberto Mauro. Por sorte passei por lá na sexta-feira à tarde,
pois não teria conseguido visitá-lo no sábado, como pretendia. O espaço não
abre nos fins de semana. O segurança, muito solícito, parecia estar feliz por
receber uma visitante, imagino que coisa rara por lá.&nbsp;











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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
  
  
 
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-qformat:yes;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}

<![endif]-->



Apesar de
algumas decepções, fiquei feliz por ter cumprido esta “missão”. Não sei se
voltarei a Cataguases um dia... talvez. E seria maravilhoso encontrar uma
cidade acolhedora, limpa, com mais acesso ao acervo e à história de Humberto
Mauro. Seu Wilson gostaria, tenho certeza. 







Mais sobre Humberto Mauro e
sua presença em Cataguases aqui.












<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  21
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  PT-BR
  X-NONE
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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  LatentStyleCount="267">
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
  
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
  
  
 
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-qformat:yes;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}

<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  21
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  PT-BR
  X-NONE
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
 <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
  DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
  LatentStyleCount="267">
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
  
  
 
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-qformat:yes;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}

<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  
  
 
<![endif]-->