gastronomia imaginária
Autor: Dani Mendes | Publicado: 2011-07-19T11:37:00-03:00


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O
arquivo de Mário de Andrade, no Instituto de Estudos Brasileiros da
Universidade de São Paulo, guarda, entre os cardápios que o escritor preservou,
este, de um jantar oferecido por René Thiollier a Olívia Guedes Penteado, em
1925, 7 de maio. Perdão! Trata-se do menu do diner, que distingue
a homenageada como "Madame" e designa em francês todas as iguarias de
sal – sopa, peixe, massa leve recheada (vol au vent) com recheio de
fígado de gansos desafortunados, peru à brasileira, presunto de York, salada –;
as sobremesas – bolo batizado com o nome do amigo distante, o poeta
franco-suíço Blaise Cendrars, salada de frutas e sorvete. As bebidas são
champanhe e licores, estes, assim como o café, para fechar o ágape que
confraterniza os modernistas de São Paulo e seus mecenas, no ano da publicação
de Pau Brasil, de Oswald de Andrade. O nome "Mario de
Andrade", a tinta preta, no alto, indica a organização dos convivas à
mesa; o apuro gráfico do cardápio; a mansão da avenida Paulista que tem por nome
"Villa Fortunata" e se mostra em fotografia trabalhada pelo estúdio
Stern, de Paris, testemunham o vínculo de certos representantes da elite social
e econômica com a renovação das artes e das letras. Os três mecenas do
modernismo paulistano estão presentes: o anfitrião, dona Olívia Guedes Penteado
e Paulo Prado. Thiollier, contista de O senhor dom Torres (1921), e o
editor da Revista do Brasil haviam se empenhado para a realização da
Semana de Arte Moderna, em 1922, e Dona Olívia, em seu salão nos Campos
Elíseos, destacava-se como a Senhora das Artes, segundo a historiadora Denise
Mattar. Os três assinam o verso do cartão, assim como Tarsila do Amaral, Oswald
de Andrade (como "Pau Brasil"), Guilherme de Almeida e outros
presentes. Mário de Andrade constrói seu souvenir, desperto para o
relato da História nos documentos do cotidiano. 

Em
abril do ano anterior, na viagem a Minas Gerais, que empreendera com D. Olívia,
Tarsila, Oswald e o filho dele, Nonê, Paulo Prado, René Thiollier, Gofredo da
Silva Telles e Blaise Cendrars, viagem na qual nascera a estética Pau Brasil,
Mário de Andrade copiara, para seu arquivo, os dados pessoais deixados pelos
excursionistas no Hotel Macedo, em São João Del Rei. Eis o registro impregnado
do "claro riso dos modernos", unindo mecenas, pintora e poetas:
"D. Olívia Guedes Penteado, solteira, photographer, anglaise, London. D.
Tarsila do Amaral, solteira, dentista, americana, Chicago. Dr. René Thiollier,
casado, pianista, russo, Rio. Blaise Cendrars, solteiro, violinista, allemand,
Berlin. Mário de Andrade, solteiro, fazendeiro, negro, Bahia. Oswald de Andrade
Filho, solteiro, escrittore, suíço".



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