Dona Irene: em paz à mesa
Autor: Manoela Penna | Publicado: 2015-02-16T15:41:00-02:00



Desde sempre
tenho vontade de subir a serra para conhecer o que chamam de melhor restaurante
russo do Brasil. Não que existam muitos, imagino eu.



Noutro dia (na verdade, noooooutro dia... pq foi ainda em 2014. Sim, estou atrasilda como nunca com a vida blogueira)&nbsp;estive, enfim, no Dona Irene. Iniciado na causa, subiu a serra falando da vodka
caseira Nazdarovia e abrindo meu apetite para os pratos principais (o meu o
Varenique e o dele o Frango à Kiev) encomendados com antecedência, como manda o figurino.



Em tempos de
conflito entre Ucrânia e Rússia, sentar nas tranquilas mesas da casa onde
funciona, há anos, o Dona Irene, em Teresópolis, mostra que paz se faz além das
fronteiras. Sem querer parecer simplista.



Dona Irene é, no
melhor sentido possível,&nbsp; um restaurante
à moda antiga. Não reinventa a roda e mostra que comer bem é uma experiência
que depende de vários sentidos, inclusive da emoção.







Uma prova é o pout-pourri de mini entradas frias
(arenque marinado maravilhoso), que muitas vezes chegam a lembrar salgadinhos
de festa de aniversário dos anos 80. Negócio de confort food, sabe? 







A borsht,
tradicional sopa de beterraba, também veio gostosa, com um massa bem frita e
sequinha ao lado. Depois chegaram as entradas quentes, com frango frito,
soufle, beringela gratinada... e, enfim, as estrelas: o Varenique sensacional e
o Frango à Kiev sem igual.









Embora só duas
mesas ocupadas no salão do segundo andar onde estávamos (o primeiro lotado), a
mocinha que nos servia tinha a medida certa entre estar atenta e nos deixar à
vontade. A refeição caminhou sem atropelos – no nosso ritmo e não no da cozinha
– com o papo fluindo regado pela geladíssima Nazdorvia. 







Passamos a tarde
toda lá, comentando como é bom vc se sentir em paz à mesa.


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