Bill Cunninghan - o fotógrafo que ditou moda
Autor: Schneider Fairbanks | Publicado: 2011-05-17T15:22:00-07:00

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Bem antes dos badalados sites trazerem à tona o olhar sobre a moda de rua e que se &nbsp;tornaram referências para quem acompanha o street style,Bill Cunningham já clicava grandes personalidades da moda e desconhecidos com visuais interessantes que caminham pelas ruas de Nova York para a coluna “On the Street”, que assina desde o fim da década de 70 para o "The New York Times". O fotógrafo, precursor de um movimento popularizado pela internet, ganhou um &nbsp;documentário “ Bill Cunninghan New York” para contar sua trajetória e a importância do seu trabalho na moda americana.
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 <![endif]-->Dirigido por Richard Press, seu colega de trabalho no NYT, o filme mostra o senhor de 81 anos circulando de bicicleta pela cidade de Nova York para registrar pessoas, looks, belezas, estranhamentos e as mudanças de comportamento da grande metrópole com um olhar atualizado sobre a juventude e a moda – tanto das ruas quanto de si próprio.

Depoimentos de editoras de moda, jornalistas e personalidades, como Iris Apfel, a italiana Anna de Piagi e Anna Wintour ilustram a importância de Bill na moda. “Todas nós já nos vestimos para ele”, conta a poderosa editora da "Vogue" América.&nbsp;&nbsp;<!--[if gte mso 9]>     Normal   0         21         false   false   false      PT-BR   X-NONE   X-NONE                                                     MicrosoftInternetExplorer4                                                   <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>  <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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 <![endif]-->Bill Cunningham mudou-se para Nova York em 1948, quando tinha apenas 20 anos e havia acabado de deixar a Universidade de Harvard. Depois de tentar trabalhar em publicidade, decidiu abrir um negócio próprio, a pequena fábrica de chapéus “Willian J.”. Depois de ficar um pouco ausente por ter sido convocado pelo exército dos Estados Unidos, o rapaz retornou para a cidade e começou a escrever para o jornal “Chicago Tribune”. Durante anos, Cunningham contribuiu significativamente para o jornalismo de moda, apresentando ao público americano personalidades como Jean Paul Gaultier e Azzedine Alaia. Ele iniciou o seu trabalho como fotógrafo pelas ruas de Nova York enquanto trabalhou para o jornal, assinando a coluna “Women’s Wear Daily”. Após ter fotografado Greta Garbo, Cunningham publicou a sua primeira série de fotografias na revista “Times” em 1948, série que desde então passou a ser regular. O editor da publicação, Arthur Gelb, considera estas fotografias um momento decisivo, já que marca a utilização de imagens de pessoas conhecidas sem pedir-lhes permissão. Desde então, a figura doce e simpática que consegue se diluir na multidão vem pedalando pelas ruas de Nova York à procura de algo que o encante.  

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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>   <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>         <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> 
 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-qformat:yes;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
 <![endif]-->: “O show da moda está, definitivamente, nas ruas. Sempre esteve e sempre estará”.

 &nbsp;Fonte: colhercultural.com.br e glamurama.com.br