Amsterdam: liberalidade com civilidade
Autor: Jorge Santana | Publicado: 2014-12-07T14:05:00-08:00


Amsterdam é a lendária metrópole dos canais fluviais
(165) e das casas flutuantes (mais de 2,5 mil), a cidade onde a liberalidade -
com destaque para a legalidade da prostituição e da venda e consumo da maconha
- &nbsp;é uma das principais
"atrações", razão pela qual atrai gente descolada do mundo inteiro e
ferve noite a dentro.

A
capital holandesa é também conhecida pelos seus muitos museus, pelas bicicletas
que se tornaram um dos principais meios de transporte da cidade, pelos belos
parques, pelos mercados e pelo urbanismo singular, formado por um conjunto de
canais concêntricos margeados por ruas sempre elegantes.





Visitamos a cidade no outono, na primeira quinzena de
outubro, com temperaturas variando entre 10 °C e 20 °C, ideal para longas caminhadas e
pedaladas. Para completar, tivemos a sorte de contar com a presença do sol em
vários momentos dos quatro dias em que lá estivemos (é bem verdade que
Amsterdam merece que se dedique mais dias). 

O
hotel escolhido, via Hoteis.com, não poderia ter sido melhor. O Room Mate
Aitana (aitana.room-matehotels.com) faz parte de uma rede de hotéis design, com
localização privilegiadíssima, a pouca distância da Central Station, do centro
da cidade e do Jordaan, o bairro mais charmoso de Amsterdam. 

Logo
que chegamos à Cidade dos Canais, no começo da tarde de uma sexta-feira, fomos
bater perna até o centro da cidade, com parada na praça Dam para um chopp
(apesar de adorar a Heineken e ver sua marca em todos os lugares, não perdi a
oportunidade de optar pelas inúmeras marcas e variedades de cerveja, a bebida
mais consumida por essas bandas) e uma boa parrilla argentina (sim, em toda parte se encontra uma steak house portenha).

&nbsp;No
retorno, entramos no Red Light District, área da cidade famosa pela
prostituição (relembrando que na Holanda é uma atividade devidamente legalizada
e vista com muita naturalidade), com várias casas de shows de sexo explícito
dia e noite. O mais pitoresco são os becos estreitos com sequências de pequenos
quartos com portas de vidro (sempre com uma luz vermelha acima), onde as moças
ficam expostas em trajes sensuais. Os serviços são prestados ali mesmo,
naturalmente fechando-se as cortinas. Embora presentes em toda parte, no Red
Light District parece haver maior concentração de coffee shops, bares onde é vendida e consumida a maconha, com igual
naturalidade.

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O
dia seguinte foi dedicado a mais caminhadas. Começamos pela feira livre do
Nordermarket, que funciona às quartas e aos sábados e onde se encontra de tudo
um pouco: desde antiquidades até frutas, verduras, frutos do mar e queijos e
mais queijos, de todos os tipos, sempre deliciosos, outra grande especialidade
dos holandeses.





A caminhada prosseguiu pelo Jordaan, com uma parada
aqui, outra acolá, para repor as energias bebendo ora uma cerveja, ora um
tinto. A chuva atrapalhou um pouco, mas faz parte do clima da cidade. No
percurso paramos no The Cheese Museum, uma lojinha de queijos com degustação
permanente e onde voltamos depois para comprar, além dos próprios queijos,
acessórios de cozinha criativos e úteis.

Seguimos
em direção à área mais badalada da cidade, a Leidseplein, uma praça e seu
entorno cheios de bares e restaurantes (de novo muitas casas de carnes
argentinas, mas também brasileiras, uruguaias etc). Nas proximidades fica o
Hard Rock Café (pit stop obrigatório) e o Waterhole, que oferece música ao vivo
à noite. Lá voltamos a tempo de ver o final do show da primeira banda e o
início da segunda, ambas de pop rock.

Menos
de um quilômetro à frente está a primeira fábrica da Heineken, hoje utilizada
para a Heineken Experience, uma interessante visita às antigas dependências,
mesclada com ensinamentos sobre o processo de fabricação de cerveja. Impossível
entrar na loja que tem uma enorme diversidade de produtos associados à marca sem
sair com sacolas cheias. Voltamos para a Leidseplein e comemos uma farta
parrillada em um dos restaurantes argentinos e terminamos a noite no Waterhole.

No
domingo o sol deu o ar da sua graça e não perdemos tempo: dia de pedalar. Alugamos
a bike em uma loja que fica na Central Station, a Mac. Pedalar em Amsterdam é
uma emoção e um prazer à parte, mas é preciso muito cuidado, afinal de contas
são milhares (ou centenas de milhares?) de bicicletas disputando espaço com
pedestres e, embora em menor quantidade, com carros e bondes. Os ciclistas
locais costumam andar em alta velocidade, fazendo manobras quase radicais, sem
falar nas motos que são liberadas para andar nas ciclovias (não consigo
entender a razão), e como todo motoqueiro, praticando as tradicionais
imprudências.








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<!--StartFragment-->











<!--EndFragment-->

Percorremos
o centro da cidade em direção à Leidseplein e seguimos em frente até o
Vondelpark, um belíssimo parque com muitas árvores, extensos gramados e lagos. Em
um dos cafés dentro do parque fizemos uma parada para a necessária hidratação,
com cerveja, é claro. No retorno, fomos à Casa de Anne Frank, cuja visita é
obrigatória. É uma imersão no mundo dos horrores do nazismo, que emociona e nos
faz voltar a refletir sobre a ilimitada estupidez humana. Na volta ao hotel, já
noite e com mais intimidade com as ruas e as regras do trânsito, experimentamos
a inesquecível sensação de liberdade sobre duas rodas, com o vento frio batendo
no rosto.





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<!--StartFragment-->O último dia foi dedicado a
algumas comprinhas e à indispensável visita ao Van Gogh Museum. Reserve ao
menos duas horas para apreciar a vasta obra desse admirável artista holandês,
conhecendo as transições entre as fases artísticas que atravessou em sua curta
e intensa existência. A loja do museu oferece uma variedade de produtos
inspirados na obra de Van Gogh, sendo natural sair de lá carregando algumas
sacolas de compras.<!--EndFragment-->







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<!--StartFragment-->



<!--EndFragment-->

Eis mais uma daquelas cidades que demorarei a dizer
"dou por vista". Amsterdam é para voltar outras vezes, para visitar
outros museus, novamente bater perna, pedalar, beber cerveja e sentir o clima
de liberalidade que, ao contrário do que se pode imaginar, não se traduz em
irresponsabilidade e pouco menos em libertinagem.