Cocinando insectos/ Estuve en México o lo soñé.
Autor: La cocinera atrevida | Publicado: 2013-02-02T15:22:00-02:00

El próximo martes 5 de febrero, día de la Constitución mexicana, serviré una degustación&nbsp;especial para 20 personas. Creo que los conozco a todos. Muchos de ellos son muy amigos míos. La gran mayoría probarán por primera vez la mayor parte de los ingredientes. Los ingredientes vinieron de México. Estuve en México o lo soñé. lo que más recuerdo es el árbol de limones rosas (las semillas las trajo mi papá de la casa de Xico de Felipe). Está enorme. Cubre todo el patio de atrás que alguna vez me pareció infinito como cuando Beto me convenció a cavar un lago para mi par de patos y parecía que nunca íbamos a terminar, como jamás terminamos de llenarlo de agua para espanto de mi mamá que lo descubrió apenas horas después - cómo podía estar siempre tan atenta?. Llenísimo de limones totalmente naranjas. Lo sueño todos los días al levantarme. Estuve en México o solamente fue un sueño naranja limón.








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<!--StartFragment-->



Gostos são adquiridos, cultivados,
escolhidos.&nbsp; Aceitos já pela herança cultural, o famoso “nasceu com a bola
entre os pés”. (E não sempre. Pensar que todos os mexicanos comem chile é uma
prova do contrário.)










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<!--StartFragment-->



Na
espera do grupo você vai começar esquentando a noite

Com dois tipos de guacamole

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; o picante clássico

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e o preparado com chinicuiles (ou seja as lesmas vermelhas

que
você conhece das garrafas de mezcal: gusano rojo).

Para
aprazar o prazer e já ter no estômago um conforto

&nbsp; caldo bichi (bichi em Sinaloa significa andar pelado)

e
se trata de um caldinho de peixe, levemente picante

fresco
e quentinho (serão razões suficientes para ficar pelado?)

&nbsp; lulas fritas com salsa
de gusano blanco

o
gusano ou lesma branca é uma das nossas maiores iguarias.

&nbsp;&nbsp; Escamoles (ovos de formiga) na receita clássica
sem frufrus 

em tortilla blanca

também
do Pacífico norte mas já um clássico no México inteiro

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; taco
de camarão com queijo e rajas de chile poblano

com
salsa de chapulín (grilos)

fazemos
uma pausa para um brinde de reconhecimento

a
todos os entomofágicos do mundo.

<!--[if !supportLists]-->•&nbsp;&nbsp; <!--[endif]-->Vou servir um dedo de mezcal “madre cuishi”

(hoje
em dia meu favorito)

con
chinicuiles tostados con nozes
para você sentir

o
sabor total deste velho amigo dos agaves.

Salud!

Continuamos
com uma criação ao “alimón”

ou
seja a quatro mãos” com a Luísa Assumpção

cebiche ao chile habanero e aguacate com

revoltijo de fideo y guajillo

&nbsp;&nbsp; mixiote&nbsp; de cordeiro com pulque

(embrulhado na transparente cutícula da folha do agave

com
o embriagante sabor da planta)

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; suíno com chicatonas (nossas formigas culonas) num

tlatonil (molho de chiles oaxaqueños).&nbsp;

Pequeno agrado doce:

Uma bola de sorvete de zapote negro

Era o fruto e a sobremesa que meu pai mais gostava.&nbsp;







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Pois é. A idéia é comer insetos. O
Gil Leite tirou uma foto do grande mercado de San Juan, célebre por vender de
tudo e exibi-lo dum jeito lindo demais. A boutique dos mercados.&nbsp; A foto
de Gil fala já do que a gente vai encontrar. Era um cartaz que avisava da venda
de javali, crocodilo, tigre, leão, e insetos: escamoles, acociles, grilos,
chapulines, formigas, gusanos, etc.

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Mais uma vez México parece um sonho. Um nome perdido numa selva de asfalto de
espantosas proporções. Mas não é uma selva com mato para descansar de repente,
é um palco de luta livre, o último reduto dos corajosos. Ou dos desesperados ou
dos que já não esperam ou esperam sem esperar. Ficamos quase o mês inteiro na
Cidade do México. Primeiro no Centro Histórico no departamento de Jorge Sánchez
(ontem sonhei com ele). Depois fomos para o coração de Coyoacán no departamento
de Moramay. E os últimos dias, os mais complicados, armazenando e conservando
comidas, na casa de Sergio e Álvaro. De alguma forma são três cidades
diferentes: o centro foi extremamente barulhento nessa raiva do fim do ano onde
adquirir felicidade nos deixa confusos e extenuados.&nbsp; Em Coyoacán era
apenas o pequeno centro que vivia a pressa dos turistas. O resto das ruas
cochilavam fatigadas. O mercado de Coyoacán desta vez foi decepcionante.
Parecia ser tomado pelo comércio ambulante e chiles e frutos terem viajado
quilómetros e séculos. Não comprei nada. A casa de Álvaro, perto da casa onde
cresci, me trouxe dias de lembranças e perguntas constantes: e que foi de
fulano, que seria da Lígia, será que é isso que eu lembro da minha
adolescência?

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Sentimos a altura da cidade, seu desgaste, sua superpopulação, os dias até
natal absurdamente poluídos, o trânsito violento, a sombra do novo governo, as
conversas constantes sobre assassinatos e medo: mas de repente ela estava aí,
correndo o vento, limpinha, orgulhosa de seus vulcões, alegre e morena. Com
crepúsculos e amanheceres de privilégio. Cidade linda. Conversadora, cheia de
fantasmas, minha família morre e mora lá. Ela ainda é um mercado vivo, maquiada
ou nua, sóbria ou bêbada. Nunca inocente, de criança só tem alguns gestos
perdidos entre acidentes, desgraças e festas regionais. O pior foi que passei
um mês andando suas ruas e morrendo já de saudade delas. Como se fosse num
sonho sempre interrompido por outra realidade que não fala mexicano. Vi muitos
dos amigos. Não encontrei a todos os amigos que teria gostado ver. Mas bebi e
comi com cada um deles, os que estavam e os ausentes. A cidade do México tinha
cheiro de cumbia e de massa fresca, duma poesia que desconheço e do pão doce
recém assado ao cair a tarde.
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