Copy + Paste: nova lei vai defender criações originais nos EUA
Autor: Sara Fontes | Publicado: 2011-11-30T19:33:00-08:00

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Se você pensou em Kate e Pippa Midleton, acertou na mosca. Os modelos acima são da marca ABS by Allen Schwartz, que tem vendido vestidos de noiva “inspirados” no casamento real (e criados pela marca Alexander McQueen) por mil dólares.O blog On the Runway, de Cathy Horyn, publicou recentemente uma matéria sobre a questão da cópia na indústria da moda nos EUA. Para inibir esse comportamento, um parlamentar republicano introduziu uma legislação que garante direitos autorais aos estilistas. E logo em seguida, a dupla Jack McCollough e Lazaro Hernandez, da Proenza Schouler, foi a Washington defender seu caso no Congresso. A loja Target, entre outros grandes magazines, copiou modelos da bolsa PS1 da marca. O preço? US$ 34! É uma discussão que vai longe, na verdade a velha luta entre elitismo e democracia.

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Essa é uma luta encabeçada pelo CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) há cinco anos, mas somente agora é que há uma chance concreta de virar lei. Mesmo porque é uma discussão muito complicada e delicada. Para evitar que processos bobos começassem a aparecer, com estilistas brigando por quem teve tal ideia primeiro, os profissionais da indústria concordaram em especificar melhor as definições de acusação de plágio, entre elas, poder provar que a cópia é “substancialmente idêntica” ao original, mais do que “substancialmente similar”. E eles ainda teriam que provar que suas criações são realmente originais e que o acusado tem conhecimento sobre o seu trabalho. Similaridades em cores e moldes não irão contar. “Apenas um número pequeno de itens será de fato protegido”, disse ao blog Steven Kolb, diretor executivo do CFDA. Os vestidos acima são um bom exemplo.De qualquer forma, se entrar em vigor, a lei será uma vitória a muitos estilistas, especialmente aqueles que chegam a sofrer economicamente, mas têm seu trabalho copiado no mundo inteiro. Bolsas que imitam o modelo PS1, da Proenza Schouler, apareceram por aí, inclusive na loja Target, para quem os estilistas até já criaram uma linha mais barata. “Nós gastamos mais de US$ 3 milhões para criar e produzir cada uma das nossas quatro últimas coleções. Nossa possibilidade de lucrar deste investimento é totalmente prejudicada quando nossas ideias estão em outras lojas antes mesmo que a gente tenha tempo de produzir as peças”, diz Hernandez. “Nós sabemos que a maior parte do que é feito não será protegido. Mas nos casos em que nós e outros estilistas criamos algo novo, nós deveríamos poder nos beneficiar dessas ideias. Ter nossa criatividade roubada diminui o valor e a identidade do que a gente lutou tanto para construir.”Dura luta essa, não? Vai dar o que falar e ainda pode mudar os rumos de como muita coisa acontece hoje na moda.


Meninas e meninos meu nome é SaraFONTES ... espero que goste das novidades... bjs !!!