Salamanca do Jarau, a lenda e o vinho
Autor: Madame do Vinho | Publicado: 2014-08-19T07:45:00-07:00

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<!--StartFragment-->



<!--EndFragment-->

Adoro vinhos que contam boas histórias. E gosto também
de contá-las, como as da Routhier &amp; Darricarrère, lá da Campanha Gaúcha,
uma vinícola que valoriza as histórias como forma de perpetuar a cultura
através do vinho. Ano passado eles nos apresentaram o vinho Red, com sua simpática
Kombi vermelha no rótulo, que contou a trajetória da vinda da família ao Brasil,
trazendo para o mundo do vinho o espírito da aventura, da juventude e da descontração.















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<!--StartFragment-->



<!--EndFragment-->

Agora chega um respeitável Cabernet Sauvignon para
contar mais que uma história, mas uma das tantas lendas gaúchas, a do Salamanca
do Jarau, documentada pelo escritor pelotense João Simões Lopes Neto.














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<!--StartFragment-->A lenda harmonizou perfeitamente com este vinho, concebido dentro de uma
filosofia que o produtor de origem francesa, Anthony Darricarrère, chama de
terroir extremo. Isso quer dizer que o vinho foi elaborado com mínima
intervenção para revelar, da forma mais autêntica possível, os aromas, sabores
e encantos deste terroir tão especial que é o da Campanha Gaúcha. Para mim é
vinho que traz a pura expressão e a raça deste chão, com marcados traços
terrosos e sanguíneos mesclados a frutas vermelhas bem maduras e aos toques
típicos de couro do vinho gaucho. Pode até parecer algo bem rústico, mas posso
garantir que é de uma elegância e personalidade incríveis.<!--EndFragment-->









Vinhedos Routhier&amp;Darricarrère

Foto: Maria Amélia Duarte Flores










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<!--StartFragment-->



<!--EndFragment-->

As uvas, provenientes de um único vinhedo, o mesmo do
já tradicional Província de São Pedro, tiveram fermentação espontânea por ação
das leveduras indígenas, aquelas presentes na casca da uva, que dão tons do
terroir ao vinho. A passagem por barricas velhas deu acabamento refinado, que a
gente sente num paladar de taninos macios combinados a álcool moderado de
apenas 12,5% e acidez que deixa a boca fresca e pede outra taça. Termina
deixando o mesmo amarguinho gostoso quando a gente bebe um bom chimarrão. 














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<!--StartFragment-->A lenda do Salamanca do Jarau foi também inspiração para a criação dos
rótulos, assinados pelo artista gaúcho Gelson Radaelli. Além de consagrado artista,
Gelson tem também um pé na cozinha e paixão pelos vinhos. É proprietário do
tradicional restaurante Atelier de Massas, em Porto Alegre, onde divide espaço
com uma galeria de arte. Empolgado com o projeto, pintou 30 quadros retratando
a lenda, dos quais quatro foram escolhidos para ilustrar os rótulos. As
pinturas tem jeito de arte rupestre, perfeitas para representar um vinho tão
natural, integrado a cultura e as características naturais deste lugar que é
extremo terroir do Brasil.<!--EndFragment-->


















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E afinal, o que diz a lenda que inspirou este vinho? Quem
vai nos contar é o jornalista gaúcho Rogério Ruschel, editor do In Vinho Viajas, blog de enoturismo,
cultura de vinho e turismo de qualidade, e que tem leitores em 98 países. O
Rogério morou na Serra Gaúcha e também na Campanha, e como temos em comum o gosto
pelo vinho e pelas boas histórias do vinho brasileiro, decidimos contar juntos
este misto de história e lenda.









Com a palavra, Rogerio Ruschel.



“Amigo ou amiga, boleia a perna, puxa um banco, e vá
sentando; pega o mate e escuta: vou te contar uma bela história. O Rio Gande do
Sul é um dos estados brasileiros que melhor preserva suas tradições históricas
e culturais - as tais raízes. Os gaúchos tem um linguajar próprio - com dicionários
especializados -, comemoram a sua “independência” do Brasil entre 1835 e 1845
conseguida na Revolução Farroupilha, e mantém uma rede de clubes que funciona como
embaixadas destas tradições, os CTGs – Centros de Tradição Gaúcha.









Nos CTGs - que são centenas em todo o país e até
mesmo no exterior - são relembradas não só a música e a culinária tradicionais,
mas também as muitas lendas que os gaúchos tem – e lendas, meu prezado, são histórias
do território contadas pelo seu povo para fazer a autobiografia. João Simões
Lopes Neto, escritor e empresário gaúcho falecido em 1916, organizou as lendas
gaúchas em livros que receberam o prestígio de literatura “maior” da Editora
Globo, através do apoio intelectual de escritores brasileiros do primeiro time como
Érico Veríssimo e Augusto Meyer. Aliás, a lenda da Salamanca do Jarau registrada por
Lopes Neto em 1913 inspirou Érico Veríssimo a escrever o trilogia do célebre
romance “O Tempo e o Vento” que já virou filme, série de televisão, peça de
teatro, peça de balé e até mesmo história em quadrinhos. Quer dizer: agora a
Salamanca do Jarau inspira também um vinho...









Mas
vamos à história. A Salamanca do Jarau conta
a estória de uma princesa moura que séculos atrás teria vindo dentro de uma
urna da cidade espanhola de Salamanca, quando caiu o último reduto árabe na
Espanha, disfarçada como uma bruxa velha para não ser reconhecida. Chegando ao
sul do Brasil com outros cristãos novos, foi transformada em uma lagartixa com
cabeça de rubi por Anhangá-Pitã, o Diabo Vermeho dos índios, e foi morar em uma
caverna no Cerro do Jarau, município de Quaraí, no Rio Grande do Sul, perto de
uma lagoa. &nbsp;Veja abaixo a
princesa-lagartixa e na outra foto o Cerro do Jarau ao fundo e atreas dos
gauchos.









Um dia o sacristão da igreja de uma
aldeia próxima, que ficava no Povoado de São Tomé, na Argentina, do outro lado do
rio Uruguai, foi até a lagoa se refrescar quando
Teiniaguá surgiu e foi aprisionada por ele em uma guampa. Durante a noite, ao
abrir a guampa, acontece uma magia: ela voltou a ser uma linda princesa, pediu
um cálice de vinho – que ele roubou do padre – e eles beberam e fizeram amor a
noite inteira. Para encurtar a história, meu caro amigo, o casal fez isso
durante várias noites (veja imagem abaixo) até que um dia o padre desconfiado do
sumiço do vinho os surpreendeu no quartinho da sacristia. Ela voltou a ser uma
lagartixa e foi morar numa barranca na beira do rio Uruguai (que é o rio que faz
a fronteira do Brasil com a Argentina e também com o Uruguai), e ele foi preso.










O sacristão foi condenado à morte, mas
no dia da execução Teiniaguá voltou fazendo enormes valos na terra, o salvou utilizando
magia, e o casal fugiu indo morar em uma caverna profunda, chamada de Salamanca
do Jarau (Salamanca quer dizer “gruta mágica”), de onde só sairiam quando
surgisse alguém capaz de cumprir sete provas, assim, tipo Hércules. Não vamos
entrar em detalhes agora, mas fique sabendo, caro leitor, que o feitiço foi
quebrado muitos anos depois por um gaúcho chamado Blau (que já faz parte de
outra lenda) e os dois condenados, transformados em um belo casal de jovens, se
casaram e geraram a população indigeno-ibérica do Rio Grande do Sul.&nbsp; Lenda é assim mesmo, caro amigo: mágica como
o vinho da Routhier &amp; Darricarrère, lá da
Campanha Gaúcha, que agora podemos beber sem medo de virar lagartixa.”





Para conhecer a vida e obra de João Simões Lopes Neto
acesse&nbsp;http://www.joaosimoeslopesneto.com.br





Rogerio Ruschel é jornalista, gaúcho e editor de
In Vino Viajas&nbsp;http://invinoviajas.blogspot.com.br/ &nbsp;








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