Paixão de língua
Autor: Claudio Pfeil | Publicado: 2016-05-09T13:14:00-03:00


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La croquise, Claudio Pfeil




Boulangerie é uma espécie de bastião do savoir-faire
patisseiro e panificador francês. Diria até que qualquer savoir que se possa
ter ou imaginar da França passa por ela: é nela que se vive o dia a dia da
França, pois é nela que a França se faz no dia a dia. Para mim, é uma
experiência sensorial tão intensa e rica, que equivale a um rito de iniciação
espiritual através do qual todos os sentidos são convocados: acordem sentidos!
Hora mesmo de acordar: o galo gaulês já está fazendo cocoricó!
Pois ir à boulangerie é conhecer e
reconhecer a cultura francesa no que ela tem ao mesmo tempo de tradicional e
inventiva, rústica e requintada, metódica e lúdica, gustativa e visual,
experiência muito mais genuína do que subir na Torre Eiffel ou passear no
Champs-Elysées. De fazer mesmo o galo cantar. É saborear o gosto francês, não
apenas o que aguça o paladar, mas também, como dizia minha avó, dá pasto à
vista: a arte de confeitar e enfeitar, arranjar e apresentar, uma espécie de
jardin à la française a atrair o olhar, como néctar, o beija-flor.&nbsp;
&nbsp;Canteiros de doces derretendo-se na
língua que passeia entre eles, espelhos de glacé refletindo olhos namoradeiros,
merengues suspirando como casais de cisnes, cobertura de frutas tão finamente
compostas que só a mordida do beijo justificaria desmanchá-las, chafarizes
caramelizados salivando na boca, laçarote de seda nas trufas e bombons feito
chapéu de menina, cestos de junco jorrando pães feito brotos de primavera.
Aromas de maçã e canela, pera e chocolate, damasco e pistache, limão, morango,
framboesa, frutas vermelhas, mirabelle, ganache, misturam-se aos aromas
quentinhos do forno rumo às vitrines e prateleiras. Tudo a germinar, florescer,
avivar, apetecer: croissants, pains au chocolat, brioches, pains aux raisins,
pains aux noix, chaussons aux pommes, chouquettes, palmiers, sablés,
viennoiseries, financiers, canelés, quiches, tartelettes, flans, clafoutis,
millefeuilles, éclairs, fraisiers, fondants au chocolat, babas au rhum,
religieuses, forêts noires, crèmes brûlées, Opéra, Saint-Honoré, Paris-Brest... Ah! Já ia me esquecendo dele - como
pude?&nbsp;
Sua excelência, o macaron, que de algum tempo para cá virou coqueluche,
para festa de uns, nem tanto de outros. Outro dia, ouvi de um anfitrião um
desabafo: tragam-me qualquer coisa de sobremesa, mas s’il vous plaît, não me
tragam ma-ca-ron! Foi assim mesmo, sílaba por sílaba, deliciosamente:
ma-ca-ron. Tem uns na rue de Saint-Honoré, sabor champagne, de cassis
também...e o de caramel?&nbsp;
&nbsp;Hão de dizer que exagero com tantos
significantes, que exagero a mim mesmo. Reconheço, estou sendo barroco,
excessivo. Assumo: excedo-me, mordo-me inteiro de paixão dessa língua que me dá
água na boca só de pronunciar.






Claudio
Pfeil