ENTENDA OS TECIDOS
Autor: VANDER LUTTY | Publicado: 2014-02-06T11:53:00-04:00


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O uso
adequado do tecido é decisivo para que a roupa tenha o efeito desejado. Um
modelo pode ser valorizado ou prejudicado se o tecido escolhido não for o mais
indicado.




É
importante observar o caimento do tecido, ou seja, se este é mais maleável,
mais rígido, espesso ou transparente.




O
caimento do tecido depende da sua gramatura, &nbsp;também conhecida como
gramagem, ela funciona como uma medida da grossura e densidade, expressa em
gramas por metro quadrado (g/m²).




Quanto
maior a gramatura de um tecido, maior é a sua maciez e mais suave será o toque.
Quando se diz que um tecido tem gramatura 50, quer dizer que ele tem 50 gramas
em um metro.




















TIPOS DE
FIBRAS




Os
tecidos podem ser formados por diversos tipos de fibras. As principais fibras
utilizadas atualmente pela indústria têxtil são:




Fibras
Naturais




Os
tecidos naturais, considerados básicos e clássicos, podem ter três origens, a
origem animal (lã e seda);a origem mineral (amianto); e a origem vegetal
(algodão, juta, cânhamo, linho e sisal).




Fibras
Sintéticas




Os
tecidos sintéticos são fibras produzidas pelo homem usando como matéria-prima
produtos químicos, da indústria petroquímica. As mais conhecidas são o
poliéster PES, a poliamida PA, o acrílico PAC, o polipropileno PP e o
poliuretano elastomérico PUR (Elastano), além das Aramidas (Kevlar e Nomex).




Fibras
Artificiais




Os
tecidos artificiais provêm de: fibras celulósicas, tais como acetatos e
viscose, e “fibras proteínicas”, procedentes de matérias como o milho e óleos
vegetais. Imitam perfeitamente a seda e o cetim, e incluem tecidos como o
algodão.







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MALHAS




É uma
superfície têxtil, formada pela interpenetração de laçadas ou malhas que se
apoiam lateral e verticalmente, provenientes de um ou mais fios. Algumas malhas
são bastante elásticas, dando um efeito colado ao corpo. Os principais tipos de
malha são:




Malha de
trama - são
tecidos de malha obtidos a partir do entrelaçamento de um único fio, podendo
resultar num tecido aberto ou circular. Pode distinguir-se pela forma como se
desfia: pode desfiar-se puxando o fio a partir da fileira superior, no sentido
contrário ao da formação da malha. Deste modo, é possível desfiar completamente
estas malhas.




Malha de
urdume - são
tecidos de malha obtidos a partir de um ou mais conjuntos de fios, colocados
lado a lado, à semelhança dos fios de urdume da tecelagem plana. Os tecidos de
malha são caracterizados pelo entrelaçar dos fios têxteis, sendo esses sempre
no mesmo sentido, ou todos na trama (horizontal) ou todos no urdume. Processo
realizado com a ajuda de agulhas.
















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TECIDOS
PLANOS

São
resultantes do entrelaçamento de dois conjuntos de fios que se cruzam em ângulo
reto. Os fios dispostos no sentido horizontal são chamados de fios de “trama” e
os fios dispostos no sentido vertical são chamados de “urdume”.

Urdume: fio vertical, paralelo á ourela,
possui menos elasticidade. A roupa cortada no sentido do urdume é dita “cortada
no fio”. Este sentido dá à roupa um aspecto menos volumoso.

Trama: sentido horizontal,
perpendicular à ourela, possui mais elasticidade. Raramente se corta uma roupa
na trama, com exceção dos tecidos que possuem barra neste sentido.

Viés: sentido diagonal em relação à
ourela, possui mais elasticidade que a trama. Uma peça cortada no sentido do
viés tem o caimento mais suave.
&nbsp;









&nbsp; 

De acordo
&nbsp;com CHATAIGNIER (2006), dependendo da gramatura os tecidos podem ser:




TECIDOS
FINOS E LEVES




São
tecidos muito leves e delicados, a maioria tem uma certa transparência. 





&nbsp; 




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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
  
  
 
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
 mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->Crepe
georgete





Exemplos:

musseline,
crepe georgete, chiffon, gaze, organza, cambraia de linho, cambraia de algodão,

tricoline
fina, seda pura, lurex, lamê, entre outros.

Indicações:

vestidos
de festa, blusas, echarpes, xales, etc.

TECIDOS
FINOS E MÉDIOS

São
tecidos delicados de gramatura leve, mas não necessariamente transparentes.







<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  
 
<![endif]-->


<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  21
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  PT-BR
  X-NONE
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
 <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
  DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
  LatentStyleCount="267">
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
  
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
  
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
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  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
  <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
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   UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
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<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
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 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
 mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
 mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
 mso-style-noshow:yes;
 mso-style-priority:99;
 mso-style-parent:"";
 mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
 mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
 mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
 mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
 line-height:115%;
 mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
 font-size:11.0pt;
 font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
 mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;
 mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}

<![endif]-->



Cetim de
seda




Exemplos:




sedas
mistas ou sintética, cetim, viscose, linho, tricoline, microfibras, entre
outros.




Indicações:




vestidos,
conjuntos de saia ou calça, camisas, blusas, saias, enviesadas ou godês,
etc.




TECIDOS
MÉDIOS




São
tecidos com gramatura mais pesada e estrutura mais armada.









<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
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  0
  
  
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  false
  false
  false
  
  PT-BR
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<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>

 /* Style Definitions */
 table.MsoNormalTable
 {mso-style-name:"Tabela normal";
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 mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
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 mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
 mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
 mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
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<![endif]-->
Tafetá de
seda



Exemplos:

microfibra,
piquê, crepes de peso médio, sarja leve, veludo de peso médio,
jeans de 5 oz, tafetá, linho com trama mais fechada, entre outros.



Indicações:

tailleurs,
calças, jaquetas, saias, camisas, capas, etc.

TECIDOS
PESADOS

São
tecidos de gramatura mais pesada e estrutura mais armada.

Tecido de
alfaiataria

Exemplos:

lã com
trama fechada, tweed, brim, jeans, gabardine, lona, cetim duchesse, crepe
romano, veludo de seda, tafetá encorpado, brocados, entre outros..



Indicações:

tailleurs,
ternos, blazers, calças, casacos, mantôs, saias, pelerines, jaquetas,
xales, vestidos, etc.









<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  
 
<![endif]-->

<!--[if gte mso 9]>
 
  Normal
  0
  
  
  21
  
  
  false
  false
  false
  
  PT-BR
  X-NONE
  X-NONE
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
  
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  
<![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]>
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Tecido de
alfaiataria


Exemplos:




lã com
trama fechada, tweed, brim, jeans, gabardine, lona, cetim duchesse, crepe
romano, veludo de seda, tafetá encorpado, brocados, entre outros..




Indicações:




tailleurs,
ternos, blazers, calças, casacos, mantôs, saias, pelerines, jaquetas,
xales, vestidos, etc.









Referências:




CHATAIGNIER,
Gilda.Fio a Fio: Tecidos, Moda e Linguagem. São Paulo: Estação das Letras,&nbsp;2006.