The magical soil of Grasse. Grasse, terra fértil!
Autor: Blue Lotus Flower | Publicado: 2012-10-14T13:51:00-03:00








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O melhor de estar em Grasse enquanto
estudo perfumaria é poder entrar diretamente em contato com uma das principais
fontes de inspiração da mesma: a natureza. Outro dia mesmo uma amiga minha
também perfumista me traz estas pequenas florzinhas que colheu no caminho da
minha casa e pede para eu cheirar. “Umm, cheira a damasco, bastante frutado...
conheço este cheiro” falei. Ela então me revela, que era Osmanthus, um pequeno
arbusto ou mini árvore, nativa da Asia que produz estas pequeninas florzinhas,
meio amareladas e extremamente aromáticas. Delas, se extrai óleo absoluto de
Osmanthus para perfumaria. Passei nesta mesma rua indo para o supermercado e
percebi o cheiro novamente, olhei para o lado e lá estavam, na calçada, entre
carros e pedestres, várias arvorezinhas de Osmanthus. Como se não bastasse, ao
lado delas, também se encontram arbustos do verdadeiro jasmim de Grasse, com
seu cheiro suntuoso, imponente e doce. Tudo ali, ao alcance dos nossos narizes.
Tem mais, nesta mesma rua, descobri o aroma suave e alaranjado da verdadeira
flor de laranjeira. Já no caminho para escola que passo todos os dias, encontro
pimenta-rosa, eucalipto, rosas, figueiras e madressilva. Assim, conhecendo o
aroma real destas maravilhosas plantas e flores, fica bem melhor (mas não mais
fácil) de reconstituir estes cheiros na perfumaria.





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Além de termos disponíveis tantas
plantas e flores em Grasse, também tivemos o privilégio de visitar as
plantações de Rosas de Maio e de Jasmim exclusivas para a Chanel como parte de
nossa educação em perfumaria. Como a estação é de Jasmim agora, outro dia fomos
visitar a colheita e após, a produção do concreto de Jasmim.&nbsp;





Para se ter uma ideia
de quantidade, é necessário colher uma tonelada de flor de Jasmim para se obter
somente 2.5kg de concreto do mesmo. Por isso é um material que chega a ser mais
caro que o ouro. As flores precisam ser colhidas pela parte da manhã e foi isso
que acompanhamos naquela linda manhã de sol.



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No mesmo dia, a noite, tivemos otro privilégio: o
de colher a Tuberosa, também conhecida como Angélica no Brasil. É uma planta bulbosa de flores
brancas.&nbsp;

 



Suas folhas são longas, estreitas e de cor verde e as flores são serosas,
pequenas, de cor branca ou levemente rosada e liberam um delicioso e intenso
perfume à noite. Por isso as colhemos durante a noite. Foi bem divertido.





Ah e
o perfume... algo doce, cremoso, leitoso, opulento, uma delícia. Um dos perfumes
mais famosos de Tuberosa é o Fracas de Robert Piguet. O absoluto de Tuberosa
também, assim como o Jasmim, é um material caro em perfumaria devido a grande
quantidade de flores necessárias para se extrair o óleo.
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<![endif]-->



Enfim,
Grasse é assim. Aqui acredito que crescem plantas e flores até em concreto!!!
Impressionante.
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 mso-para-margin-right:0in;
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<![endif]-->



Tenham uma excelente e perfumada semana!



Blue Lotus Flower&nbsp;



ENGLISH VERSION:



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The best thing of
living in Grasse while studying perfumery is to be able to get directly in
touch with one of the main sources of inspiration of perfumers: the nature. The
other day a friend of mine, also perfumer, brought me these small flowers that
she picked from a street next to my house and asked me to smell it. "Umm, smells of
apricot, very fruity ... I
know that smell, "I said. Then
she tells me that it was Osmanthus, a small shrub or mini tree, native to Asia that
produces these tiny flowers, half yellow and extremely aromatic. From them,
it’s extracted the Osmanthus absolute for perfumery. I
went to this same street to go to the supermarket and noticed the smell again,
I looked to the side and there they were, on the sidewalk, between cars and pedestrians,
several Osmanthus trees. If
nothing else, beside them, I can also find in the same spot, the true jasmine of
Grasse, with its sumptuous smell, sweet and a bit animalic. Everything there, to the reach
of our noses. There's
more, at this same street, I also discovered the sweet orangey aroma of true
orange blossom. Walking
to the school every day, I can find pink pepper, eucalyptus, rose, fig and
honeysuckle, just to name a few. Thus,
by knowing the real scent of these wonderful plants and flowers, is much better
(but not easy) to reconstitute these smells in perfumery.






In
addition to having so many plants and flowers available in Grasse, I also had
the privilege of visiting as part of our education in perfumery, the exclusive
Chanel May Roses and Jasmine fields. Since the Jasmine season is now, we
visited the other day and after harvesting, we saw the production of Jasmine concrete.
To
get an idea of ​​quantity, it is necessary to collect a ton of Jasmine flower
to obtain only 2.5kg concrete of Jasmine. So it's a
material that gets to be more expensive than gold. The
flowers must be harvested by the morning and that’s what we followed on that
beautiful sunny morning.







On
the same day, at night, we were lucky enough to have the chance to harvest
Tuberose, also known as Angelica in Brazil. It is a bulbous plant with
white flowers. Its
leaves are long, narrow and green and the flowers are serous, small, white or
slightly pink and release an intense perfume at night. That’s why the harvest is overnight.
It was really fun. Oh, and the scent ... something sweet,
creamy, milky, rich, delicious. One
of the most famous fragrances around Tuberose is Fracas by Robert Piguet. The
absolute of Tuberose also, like Jasmine, is an expensive material in perfumery
because of the large number of flowers needed to extract the oil.







Anyway, that is Grasse. Here, I
believe that plants and flowers can grow even on concrete!! Impressive.

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Have an excellent and fragrant week!



Blue Lotus Flower 


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