Active Cylinder Technology is one of the most widely accepted technologies in the recent times as it greatly helps in bringing down the fuel consumption and Seat is the latest brand to adopt it. Seat has launched a new Seat Ibiza FR Edition that is powered by a new 1.4 TSI petrol engine that equips ACT (Active Cylinder Technology ). The new ACT-equipped petrol heart replaces the previously available 1.4 TSI 150 PS non-ACT engine on the entire Ibiza range. Compared to the previous engine, the new one develops 10 hp less but is capable of sprinting from 0 to 62 mph in under 8 seconds while returning a great 60.1 miles to a gallon.While the 0 to 62 mph acceleration time is 0.2 seconds more, the new engine adds a significant 12.2 mpg to the fuel efficiency and also brings down the CO2 emissions to 109 g/km, an
Seat has launched two new versions of the flagship Leon hatchback called the Cupra and Cupra 280. Of the two new models, the Leon Cupra 280 is the quickest and most powerful series production car ever made by Seat. The Leon Cupra range includes five models starting with the standard SC Cupra, the SC Cupra 280, SC Cupra 280 DSG, Cupra 280 and Cupra 280 DSG. Interestingly, despite being exceptionally well powered all the Cupra models return 44.1 mpg average fuel consumption. Leon is a brand in itself therefore to surpass its high-set benchmark, Seat has fitted the Cupra range with standard features like a mechanical front axle differential lock, a progressive steering system, DCC dynamic chassis control, and two-stage deactivation of the electronic stability control (ESC).Also the Leon Cupra is built on an all new chassis, features a wider front track and fully independent front and rear suspension.
Your desperation of viewing the cool yet ravishing racing car competition may come to an end with theannouncement of SEAT Leon racing Competition to begin in 2014. SEAT has fulfilled its promise to present its customers with the ultimate racing car series with some fresh cars. This race series will be comprised with six different European countries who will be hosting the race and about to commence in May 2014. This will be a customer racing series with the all-new astonishing Leon Cup Racer. This will be organized in six weekends as the drivers will be driving the expeditious SEAT Leon Racer with 330 PS with professional features that are typically customized for racing series.This car claims to be the high performance car and the customers are also waiting to see the dashing model and hold on the steering. The Car Performance The contestants will get a chance to
SEAT is introducing the new Mii Ecofuel, a CNG-based low-emission car under its flagship, featuring the low running cost and affordable pricing . The Mii Ecofuel runs on Compressed Natual Gas[CNG], is technically optimized to deliver best efficiency, low running cost and good driving dynamics. It is the first model of SEAT to be premiered with new SEAT badge at the upcoming Geneva International Motor Show 2013. It has a base price of €12,050 in Germany, which is quite affordable as per the market with the SEAT-based characteristics of low maintenance cost.The new SEAT Mii Ecofuel CNG is loaded with 3-cylinder spark-ignition 1.0-Litre engine which is a lightweight engine built from aluminum, and helps to make it more efficient. It has a displacement of 999 cc and can generate an output of 68 PS[67.1 hp or 50 kilowatt] at 6,200 rpm with the top torque of 90 Nm which can achieved by the fast revved engine at
SEAT new Leon Engine Configuration: The SEAT new Leon 1.6 Liter TDI turbocharged Engine with direct injection, is capable of generating a horsepower of 104 i.e 105 PS with a torque of 184 lb.feet i.e 250 Nm. The engine is well engineered with technology that makes it quickly warm-up with low internal friction, which produces adequate power with more fuel efficiency as the figures indicates. The new Leon with enhanced engineering and technology has improved more on fuel economy from its previous versions by 22%.The Leon 1.6 TDI has shown a fuel mileage average figure of 74.3 miles per gallon i.e 31.58 kilometer per liter, which is really good in its class segment. With fuel efficiency, the new Leon has also shown a good figure in low CO2 emission that makes its more environment friendly with mere 99 gram per kilometer of CO2*. Those who are really go for
Seat is active member of Volkswagen Group with leading highest number of cars deliveries in Spain, by its innovative design, efficiency, performance with reducing level of CO2 emission. With the latest technology from Volkswagen, Seat has developed highly efficient and good performance petrol and diesel variant engines for new 2013 Seat Toledo, one is TDI diesel engine which has a capacity of 1600-cc i.e 1.6 Liters and horsepower of 105 i.e 77 kilo-Watt. On the other hand, with technology of 7-speed dual-shift gearbox, the petrol variant is quite powerful and comes with capacity of 1400-cc i.e 1.4 Liters and 1600-cc i.e 1.6 Liters, that produces a horsepower of 75 i.e 55 kilo-Watt with 1.4 Liters and a horsepower of 122 with 1.6 Liters petrol engine of new 2013 Seat Toledo.For diesel engine with 1600-cc i.e 1.6 Liters, Seat is working on configuration that will produce a horsepower of 90
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The road noise is high on this car, but it's like a little go-cart. Really fun to drive! One problem was the driver's side front wheel bearings were bad, but one hour of labor, and parts, and my mechanic checked the timing belt and changed the spark plugs for $119.00.
Then I went to U-Pull wrecking yard, it and found some inside plastic panels as it didn't come with those, and a friend helped me glue down some insulation before putting that on. That was $24. Still looking for some hubcaps.
Oil changes are so easy. It's using some oil, but I read where I should probably clean the ERG? valve, so I will before I burn the valves. (I don't speak the language of a mechanic, really. Ask me about nutrition or cleaning products, but I learn quickly.)
My Pontiac has 204,000? on it, and gets 20-23 mpg. This little disposable Geo had 171,000 on it when I bought it, and had been a smoker's car (I'm very allergic to smoke), but I picked it up for $550, figuring with gas prices that it would pay for itself in 3-6 months. With $50 for registration, and $120 for basic repairs, $24 for some noise control, the 38-39 mpg (it's automatic and I haven't tested the mpg on a long freeway trip yet) I'm happy. I fill up with $20-27 depending on gas prices, which is half of what I had been spending.
The safety factor makes me feel like I'm a scurrying mouse on the highways, and I'm cautious. I find that I brake later than with my large, heavy old Pontiac 6000 which can get me rear-ended if I'm not more careful. Overall, a great money saver and experiment.
My previous car (a 1985 honda CRX) was totaled and I had just needed a good economy car to see me through grad school. The car dealer showed me this little (very!) green convertible and it was love at first sight. Almost fifteen years and 170k miles later little "Gumby" is still running strong.
Apart from a valve job and new clutch at 165K miles, the car has required just about no repairs other than the usual oil change, tune ups, tires etc. Also, due to vandalism, I've had to replace the top twice, although I was incredibly happy with the factory convertible top and the first replacement top did not measure up at all to the factory top (the second replacement is much better).
Most people who haven't driven a geo metro (manual transmission) will think that its sluggish on the road (after all, it is a three-cylinder...) The truth is that this car is peppy and an absolute joy to drive. It handles well and, because the car is fairly light, is very responsive.
...and of course, there is the gas mileage. I live in Los Angeles and have to deal with stop-and-go traffic all of the time, but still get about 38 city miles/gallon and 40-43 on the freeway.
Other pluses: With the Geo Metro, you can be crappy at parking and still fit the car well within the lines; you an always find a parking space to fit into; little kids think that your car is cute because it looks like a life-size "playmobile" toy; I could go on and on...
Safety is always a concern with the little Geo Metro, though. You have to be much, much more than just a defensive driver. I've been backed into by more other drivers than I'd like to remember and they always said the same thing: "I didn't even see your car."
Overall, a car that has more than exceeded my expectations and one that I have no intentions of trading in.
Great review. I've looked here and there for a used Metro to use as a daily driver, but alas, they've usually got a couple of hundred thousand miles on them or have been thoroughly abused. Just more proof that Suzuki builds some damn fine cars. Too bad the Metro was replaced with the clearly inferior Daewoo Aveo.
My fiance and I purchased a 2003 Envoy SLY with 42K miles in August of 2007. At first I LOVED it, great power from the V6, and had a ton of gadgets. But is went downhill fast, the gauges go haywire when you turn the ignition on, sometimes it starts sometimes it won't. 2 times in the last week I was driving around 60 MPH and the gauges went nuts, and the car shut off and the computer screen read "service brake system soon". After reading some of these comments, I believe this Envoy will be gone as sooon as the issues are fixed.
First off, the Envoy doesn't come with a V-6. It has an I-6 derived from the bullet-proof decades-old design going back to the 1930's.
As for your problems, I'd advise taking the vehicle to a GOOD GM service department that has technicians who are well-trained in diagnosing and correcting computer problems.
This was a problem with the Trailblazer and Envoy early on. Before buying our 2003 (new) I made sure that our dealership had well-qualified technicians who had had special training in setting the computer (which, unfortunately, controls just about EVERYTHING in the Envoys).
I'm a mechanic and car enthusiast. Before buying the Envoy we drove lots of SUV's. NONE came remotely CLOSE to competing in any way, shape or form with the Envoy. In the 6 years we've had it, it has not had a single problem other than a new battery in late 2006.
You might want to read my review and comments on our Envoy before being too harsh on yours. It is in the 2003 section and is entitled "The best SUV for the money".
My service engine light has been going on and off quite regularly. I failed emissions with a 01028 (? I can't remember) code, but it was the thermostat. I had it replaced today, as well as the sensor because it was unknown which had the problem. As soon as I pulled out the drive, my car acted like it wanted to die when I turned the a/c on. Now my a/c blows from everywhere except the dash (even when it's set on the dash setting, it blows on the floor) and it loses power and goes dead when I'm idling??? What the...??? HELP!! MY mechanic says that he cleared all the codes and the computer has to reset itself, I guess like add the codes back in to operate (?) But now, when I use the a/c, it's dying on me. Any suggestions???
My suggestion (I'm a mechanic) is see a GOOD mechanic. The computer problems with the Envoy/Trailblazer/Rainier/Bravada line is virtually ALWAYS an inept mechanic who is NOT certified in servicing these computers (which control EVERYTHING from the mirrors to the Engine).
I don't buy the "computer will reset itself" line for one second. It sounds like your mechanic does not know what he is doing and wishes you'd go away.
Before buying our 2003 Envoy, I was well aware of this issue and made VERY sure that the dealership I bought the car from had computer-certified technicians. Shortly after our warranty was out, we had the same problem you mentioned with the A/C. Our GMC dealer fixed it at no cost to us, and we have never had another problem of any kind with this vehicle.
It has 60,000+ miles and has had NOTHING except a battery in late 2006. It still has the original brake pads and Michelin tires. It is the first car my wife has kept more than 2 years since 1988. She says she NEVER wants to get rid of this car. Considering that it looks, runs and drives exactly like it did the day we bought it, gets 24mpg on the highway and has incredible power for an I-6 (much faster than previous V-8 Explorers) I told her she was welcome to keep it as long as she wants.
250,000 miles is not at all out of the average for a GM vehicle (our family's Buick has 277,000+ miles) so it may last us a very long time. Please, find a mechanic who is not going to give you the runaround. These are the finest SUV's currently on the market.
My a/c is blowing out of the floor instead of the dash when the switch is set on dash only. Any suggestions of what this might be? Anybody know about the relay switch?
To comment 11:05. We had this exact issue (air blowing out the floor only) just after our warranty expired on our 2003 Envoy. We have a really GREAT dealer who has very well-trained technicians and they repaired the issue for free for us. I DO NOT know if the air-blend door (which controls where the air is directed) is controlled by the computer on this model, but since the trend in ALL modern cars is to let the computer control EVERYTHING I suspect it is. It has become the custom of computer geek designers to make the computer control everything from the lights to the mirror adjustments. This is done for two main reasons: 1) So they can say the car is "more sophisticated" (which it isn't, it's just more problem-prone) and 2) To require you to bring it in to the dealer for ANYTHING that goes wrong (which is the MAIN reason, and makes them TONS of money!!).
As a mechanic I've run into lots of cases of the computer giving problem codes that didn't seem correct. The systems on many modern cars are so sensitive that even a slightly loose gas cap will trigger a code. I suspect that commenter 20:07 is another victim of the computer-from-Hell syndrome (where your computer is acting senile) and you'll need to find a COMPUTER QUALIFIED mechanic to fix it. The corner gas station can no longer repair the new cars that are designed to generate dealer service department revenue. I'm frankly so disgusted with the complexity of newer cars that my next 2nd car is going to be something like a 1963 Ford Falcon 200 cubic inch 6. They can be repaired on the side of the road with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver by a kindergarten graduate.
I just bought an 02 Envoy SLT with 103,000 miles on it. The same night after I got home, the AC started making a tapping noise when I turned it off. So I turned it back on, it tapped a few times and then quit making the noise, but every time I turned it off, it would continuously make that noise.
The next day the check engine light came on, I took it to AutoZone and the guy says it was an emissions code. That same day the AC would not blow on the face mode; it was on, but air was not blowing. I could feel it on the floor, but not on the face.
I took the car back to the dealer, and they said that there was an issue with the transmission, and that it had too much pressure or something, or it could be something electrical. They are going to fix the transmission he says, and the AC issue has been fixed they say.
I am wondering if anyone could tell me how many more issues should I expect out of this vehicle? Or if I should just swap the vehicle for a 2002 Jeep Liberty Ltd with 86k miles, or a 99 Lexus RX300 with 102000 miles?
I've only had the Envoy for 2 weeks now, and it's been at the dealer. I am currently in their loaner vehicle. I don't know if I want to keep the Envoy with the issues that I have experienced already.
I own a 01 Navigator and had the same problem with the #6 cylinder at 65K. Lincoln would not stand behind the product. I finally took it to a Ford dealership and they split half the 4,000 dollar repair. Now I just spent 1,000 getting the compressor for the load leveling. Not to happy with the Lincoln experience.
To the person referring to the "4100" motor... he was talking about the price, not the engine. Do you even know what you are talking about? The Navigator uses the Ford 5.4L Triton engine, not a "4100" engine... so how can you recommend NOT buying one? Ford doesn't even MAKE a 4100 engine. In fact, the only thing that ford produces using that code is a New Holland Tractor, model 4100. Don't post if you don't know what you're talking about - you'll only confuse people.
I have a 1998 Lincoln Navigator, and I have had no problems with it... Not one problem... It's 2007, and it is still running the same as it did when it was brand new...
The only problem with it now, is someone stole my front grille emblem... I don't know why, but a new one is on its way to me...
This car is AMAZING... I recommend this SUV to anyone... The people that have had so many problems with the truck shouldn't be the owners of it... they don't respect it, and they probably were treating it like dirt.
There is no reason to change the engine twice, how about you don't slam the gas down from a dead stop, take car of your car and it will be fine!!
The air ride is still great... front driver's side needed to be replaced at 356,000 miles, light bulbs needed replacing, and the volume control on the steering wheel stopped working... only very minor problems, but I still love this truck, and I will have it for many more years to come!
I own a 2000 Navigator and recently I put 24 inch wheels and tires, now my front driver side makes a grinding noise when I accelerate, I have taken it to the dealer with my stock wheels and the tech said there is nothing wrong with the vehicle. Any ideas??? Besides taking the wheels off... I purchased the wheels for 3k so kinda sucks to take them off.
Need help??? I have a 2000 Lincoln Navigator. Just wondering where I can find a emblem for my front grill. Looked all over, no luck???
Try a salvage yard. You may be able to find a Lincoln vehicle there and take the front emblem off one of those.
I have a 2000 Lincoln Navigator 4x4, and got suspension parts; less than 300 for the pump and new rear air bags.
My problem is that I have a grinding sound on the passenger side of my truck when I put it under acceleration load. The truck has 200,000 miles on it and it runs great. I have put in new bearings and rebuilt all the running gear except the motor. The transmission guy doesn't know what it is. If anyone has a clue, please clue me in, it will be greatly appreciated.
Also, to get better mileage, I use synthetic oil and a K&N air cleaner. I get 13.9 in town and up to 16 on the road with the 32 valve motor.
"My problem is that I have a grinding sound on the passenger side of my truck when I put it under acceleration load."
I have a 2000 Navigator and I am having wiring problems. I will be driving down the road and my stereo will come on and when I shut it off the heater comes on.
After about 2 years, found the problem was that one of the tires was bigger than the others. The drive system has a very tight tolerance as to tires size.
I had a similar problem with my 2000...finally realized one day that that was a small amount of water in the left corner of the dash. Had the window replaced by a good company and no more problems. Think water just made its way down to some electrical stuff.
My engine just blew on my 1997 Toyota Camry for the exact same reason. Where did you find your information?
Two of my friends bought late model used Camry's because of the "MYTH" that Toyota was reliable. Both of them fell apart in less than a year. Where do people get these insane ideas that the Japanese build better cars?? The two Japanese cars our family had were the most unreliable cars we ever had. We drive Ford and GM now.
My dad bought his Camry in April 2002. We've had no problems with the car, and we're at 150000 miles. Even Toyota has they're share of lemons, even GM or Ford, all be it Ford and GM seem to have more lemons than do Toyota and Honda.
I bought a 1997 Nissan Altima GXE today, for my first car, since most reviews on here were positive. Awesome value for the money so far -- love the power!
I have a 2003 SE Camry and have not had a problem with it. 2.4 L V4 I have even started an extended oil drain interval last year at this time (Oct 2005) and now just drained the oil. I put 20,107 miles on those 4 quarts of synthetic oil. Just changed the filter at 12,500 miles and added 1 quart to make up for what I took out with filter and runs great. Don’t get me wrong I checked the oil level at least once a week to make sure I had the proper amount.
I like Chevy, but when I bought this car I seemed to have fallen in love with it. It just seems to be more solid the GM products. The car is quieter, steer’s better, drives smoother, and I get better gas mileage. Not saying that Toyota can’t have problems because when you have so many cars on the road (such as the Camry) you will undoubtably have some issues with some. I am seriously looking into a Tacoma down the road. Heard positive things about them.
We bought a 2003 Camry 4 door 4 cylinder new. At 15,000 miles power steering fluid began to leak from 3 different points in the steering assembly. Toyota replaced the entire assembly and gave us a loaner car at no cost.
At 21,000 miles the catalytic converter was replaced due to a bad egg smell. This took 3 trips to the dealer before they were convinced of the problem (they argued that bad gas was the problem). No loaner this time. This problem has since appeared in a TSB, and Toyota now knows of this problem.
Life was good until 3 days ago (August 2008, 76,000 miles) when the car stalled with no warning at a light in a major intersection. The alternator died (part cost $175) along with the 5 year old battery ($59 - Costco). OK. This problem happens to cars.
But it never happened to the 5 Honda's I've owned that had far more mileage than this Camry (my wife selected).
This site, along with comments on Carcomplaints.com, and my experience with this car, have convinced me to get rid of it. I'm convinced, along with my wife (finally) that Toyotas are not built as well as Hondas.
Having owned a Honda that was even worse than your Camry, I've switched to domestics. They're more reliable, have a much better warranty and offer a bit more than the " basic appliance" feel of Honda and Toyota. None of our domestics has ever had ANY problems. We won't be buying any imports from now on.
I have a 2003 Camry LE. Bought it used at 47K miles and now have a 114K. I am not sure if the battery id dying or if it is the alternator. The battery has had to be jumped on two separate occasions over the last 2 1/2 days. Took the car to Auto Zone. They tested the battery, it appears to be OK. However, the alternator appears to be OK as well. Is it possible the belts are the problem? Any suggestions on which one of the potential scenarios may be? I would hate to buy a new battery and lose the charge after a few days if the problem is ultimately the alternator.
It is possible you have a current drain on the battery from some electrical source that is not shutting off as it should, or a short that is pulling power from your battery. Check to be sure all your accessory lights, such as the glove box light, under-hood light, trunk light, etc. are turning off (if your car has these). I've encountered these kinds of issues before. I had one vehicle that would drain the battery over a two-week period and I NEVER found the cause of it. I just made it a point never to allow it to sit without being started for more than three or four days.
I doubt that your belt is slipping, as that is normally accompanied by a very easily heard squeal in most cases, as well as a burning odor. I suspect it is just a weak battery that is not holding a charge. If it is out of warranty or over three years old, I'd just get another inexpensive battery. I've found that Wal-Mart batteries last just as long (usually LONGER) than much more expensive batteries. My $39 Wal-Mart batteries usually easily last 4 years.
For one, most alternators come with an internal voltage regulator. When you replace one, you replace both.
If your battery is dying, and the alternator checks out OK, it's most likely that the battery is at fault, especially if it's over three years old.
The warranty on the battery is a direct result of the time it takes for the acid to eat through a terminal connector. It is a known rate and mfrs. base their warranties on that.
If your battery fails early, ask yourself if you've been using tap water to top it off or distilled water as is recommended. That will kill a battery early.
Otherwise, a good electrical man can find the drain from a short. I emphasize the word 'good'. Lots of mechanics are just mindless parts swappers. Find the good one and feed him with your business so that he'll be there for you when you need him.
How far does this individual drive is my first question? Import batteries are notoriously small and more designed for starting and mostly basic accessories. If this is a city or short start/stop commuter, it's likely the charge never reaches 100% and battery stratification occurs. The battery is weakened can still start but likely will fail early. Take a look under the hood and note how small many of these batteries really are. They have to fit in a tight compartment. Some European imports do have larger batteries however. I always bought the biggest replacement batteries that would fit in my domestics. I did not have that capability in my imports... yet had heated seats, lots of accessories in them.
I have 2 deep discharge batteries in my boat. A marine battery can suffer deep discharges and are taxed heavily with electronics. And I buy big batteries and switch off. Get far offshore and you can appreciate their importance.
The other question is many vehicles have maintenance free batteries and you can test the battery or look for a green indicator only. Maybe simple good driving basics of keeping the battery up or not parking long periods with accessories, parking lights, doors open, radios etc. on for long stretches with the engine off can help as well on many tiny import batteries.
A small battery is severely challenged to start as well as run many modern accessories. If you have few (bare bones import no power windows, moonroofs etc) you may have better battery life to a point. I think if you drive small cars, small batteries mainly short distances you are going to go through batteries as a common routine expense.