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For some of the greatest love stories of all time, age is but a number - their love is so vivid, it disregards years and thrives only on the passion two people feel for each other.
The great romance of Humphrey Bogart & Lauren Bacall is one such story - instantly smitten with one another, many would have been concerned with the vast gap in their age, but Humphrey & Lauren (or Bogie & Baby, as they so fondly called one another) were besotted, and looked beyond the mere number that is their age, and instead, let love flourish through their mutual interests, their instant attraction to one another.
The closure of 13 MOD sites, including RAF Henlow was announced this week. Henlow is anticipated to close by 2020, but further details will be published later this year. Not sure how this will affect the Signals Museum.
If you do visit, there's a House Clearance shop on the nearby roundabout on the A600. It's worth popping in; last time I was passing, there was a Ferranti 255 in the window and a small collection of Roberts transistor sets inside. Usually a few clocks about too.
Yes it was on Tuesday this week that we received the devastating news of the station closure by spring 2020. It will enable us to see the centenary of the station and we have a little while yet but eventually the items on loan will be returned to their owners and the rest will be disposed of by various means.
I am looking to find other museum(s) to take some items. Our most recent innovation has been powering up the radar consoles. After all the work that has gone in into them, it would be a real shame for them to be returned to storage. We have a very impressive scenario running on the console type 64 that is being run from an Arduino. Amongst other things, the Arduino generates sin & cos sweep waveforms, range rings, echoes that move, jamming and coastline. The boys are also working on bring two of the other consoles back to life. Quite remarkable really as these things probably haven't seen power for 50 years or more!
I am glad I visited when I did, I was the tall bloke that bashed the card into the window next to the radar display.
Hello – saw your post about RAFARS museum. Thought I would let you know to pass on that Steve-G8EBM of enfield-data is creating a purpose made Radio Communications Museum of Great Britain radio museum and operating centre. He has built a massive building for it and is acquiring exhibits. He may be interested in hosting the RAFARS collection, - google images search g8ebm museum will amaze you
BTW I grew up in the shadow of RAF Henlow, my father farmed a lot of the land bordering the airfield on the village side
We like to think that people find the museum interesting and leave knowing more than they did before their visit.
where did you find this posting? I didnt know there was a RAFARS museum somewhere or is someone getting the names mixed up?
Very sorry to hear about the Museum's uncertain future. It would be great if the collection could be kept together, re-homed and be displayed as working exhibits after the effort put in by you and your team of volunteers.
There was lots to look at when I my Father and I visited, (more than 5 years ago), but I don't think much of it was powered. I hope we can make a return visit soon and see what's new.
I caught sight of a poster this weekend advertising the Henlow Signals Museum, sadly it pointed out that the Museum is still under the threat of closure. I checked-up on their website and the latest news doesn't look hopeful:
"With the threat of closure hanging over us, we will remain open until the end of 2017. Hopefully, in the future we will re-locate to an exciting new venue, but as yet, nothing is finalised."
"Please note: the December (2nd) Open Day may be our last as we have not had a reprieve on remaining open as a museum."
I must say that I'm very upset at hearing of Henlow's proposed closure & subsequent threat to their Signals Museum. For two reasons :- Alf has kindly helped me with some research in the past, and many years ago RAF Henlow was the mother unit to 103MU's (Akrotiri, Cyprus) Test Equipment Dept where I was stationed back in the late 60's.
Hearing some years ago of 30MU's closure at RAF Sealand was another bitter blow. God knows who is now carrying out all the major (3rd line) servicing of the RAF's avionics & test equipment. Anybody know ?
I have not yet had the chance to visit the RAF Henlow museum, but I know the old REU (Radio Engineering Unit) well. I worked in EES/EWEF (Electrical Engineering/Electronic Warfare Engineering Flight) in the late 1970's and early 80's. As a young radio engineer (LAC Trade Group 3), I used to do the post runner chore and visit "Xtal flight" (one of 15 odd stop-off's) to deliver the post. What they ever did there was a great mystery to me. They had a very large Alsation dog which was always pleased to see passing visitors. The other side (site) of the station was OCTU (Officer Command Training Unit) also in its death throws. With a main road running though the middle of the station, security alerts weren't fun for the lower ranks as it meant having to search cars passing through. Joe public were never impressed.
I'm not fully "up-to-speed" with the why Henlow is at risk of closing. Lack of role or financial cuts seems likely? So many military establishments have vanished with barely a trace left.
The day was, when every Operational Station had its own Radio/Electronics Workshop. They were whittled down to 3/4th line repair centres (North Luff, Henlow and the like). Then we lost No 1 Radio School, training went off to Cosford. I guess we don't do that type of engineering any more because we live in a throw away world. 81SU (STCICS) where I worked as System Engineer did not last long either....I thought it was an amazing system!
Funding, accommodating and running museums or homes for retired radio equipment, (what most consider to be scrap) is a big problem for the few. Q. What do I do with my growing radio shed (housed in Criggion MW Radio Station) when I am finished with it (i.e. dead)? There appear to be less and less mad keen "radio/valve fan folk"" about. I guess its a bit like the Remembrance Day Parades, there will soon be a time when the few that knew, took part and lost loved one's aren't around to remember first hand. Are we living with one foot in the past with a bad dose of gangrene in the other?
If it's not icy (not the best on two wheels) I will be there on the 2nd to at least take some photographs for record. If anyone sees a tall biker type do say "Hello, vintage radio net?".
I visited Henlow in the early 80's as it's not far away from RAF Brampton Castle (No.2 signals unit - HF receiver station) and RAF Stanbridge, these were my first 2 postings. I went on to work on a wide range of radio equipment across the UK. Some of it still used valves and we were taught valve theory in training.
At the time lots of overseas stations were closing and we used to say the choice of postings was shrinking quicker than an RAF jumper ... looking at what's closed or closing there's not much left in the UK now either. I can easily think of a dozen camps I was either posted to or visited regularly to service kit that are now closed.
I was just looking at the museum website the other day and thinking I'd like to go (but its a long way from here) I'll have to see if I can make it next year. It would be interesting to see if I recognised anything.
Unusually for such a museum, many of the exhibits are actually connected up and working - so if you fancy operating a T1154 (into a dummy load), now's your chance...
Also noteworthy is the clever use of space, giving the TARDIS-like impression that there's a lot more inside the building than you might expect from the outside.
It's an excellent museum and it would be well worth making the effort to visit next week before it closes.
Re John's post and mention of Brampton Castle (2SU receivers). My 81SU Bampton Castle (mid 1980's) posting was not many yards away. We had 3 antennas, A Plessey Pusher, Conifan and WB2/30. I remember the the LPH 73 at 2SU receivers. You really could not miss it! Happy days...
I don't remember what we used it for but I do remember setting up an RA17 and teleprinter to get the football results on a Saturday which we'd then relay over to Cyprus and other outposts ... happy days indeed
As the curator, I think I should update you all as there has been a misunderstanding about what the Stn Cdr said over a year ago.
We met him recently at the local lower school on a WW2 project day and he asked how the museum was going. We soon got around to talking about the closure of the station and the museum. He said he didn't see why we should be thinking about closure of the museum at the moment and he thought we could carry on for another year or so.
At the moment, there is no more news of our future although it is thought that there may be a better idea of timescales next year around April/May time.
We don't open in January so the next public open day in the new year will be Saturday 3rd February 2018.
I don't know which must be the most disheartening, knowing your museum is about to close, or being in limbo with 'not at the moment' and 'might carry on for another year or so'.
I sincerely hope a way of keeping it open long-term can be found, even if it means moving to another location.
I've right now got my old bedroom hifi in bits all over the lounge floor. I'm trying to get it back to a functional state. For years, there has been a problem with it whereby everything seemed to work, but not correctly or consistently. this seemed to revolve around the front face controls PCB just behind the control panel and LCD display on the front. For example, when turning the volume control knob to increase the volume, the volume would either stay still, go up, go down, or be a combination of any of the two/three. Only by turning it really fast, continuously, in the one direction, could you ever hope to get the volume to go up by any margin. Using the remote however, worked fine. So i determined it must be a mechanical issue. Other symptoms of similar confusion would result from the pressing any of the digital buttons to select different modes. You'd press a button and either nothing would happen, or something completely different would happen. Only sometimes would you ever get the proper response from the button you were pressing. Repeated pressing would eventually get you the result you were after.
The PCB in question, has all fairly robust looking interface controls. The volume control is quite a solid looking metal POT type spindle, and each of the digital buttons is a nice solid looking tactile microswitch push button. Each has a nice solid click to it when depressed.
I was planning on giving all these controls a good solid spray with some isopropol alcohol. My thinking is that perhaps they've become somehow "bunged up" with the likes of hairspray etc back in the 90's?
Another issue is tape deck related for the same unit. The belts have completely dissolved into a black gooey mess over the years. I've now ordered another compatible set from Ebay, but i'm in for a challenge in trying to clean all this black rubber belt goo (it's like tar, no joking!) from the pulleys etc.
Does anyone have any tricks or proven chemicals to remove said goo without damaging any of the plastic pulleys which the goo is stuck all over?
Dirty switches are the obvious first thing to check. Servisol 10 will work better than plain IPA (don't use WD40).
Dissolved belts can be a pain to clean off, and the chemical composition varies. White spirit / turps substitute is probably as good a solvent as anything. Ordinary WD40 is mostly white spirit so can be used as a solvent, but apply it using a rag rather than spraying directly, and take care to clean off all residue or the new belts will slip. Acetone tends to attack plastics, so if you decide to try it from desperation try it on a bit of sacrificial plastic first. IPA is safe but doesn't tend to be much use shifting these hydrocarbon deposits.
Cleaning the switches might help, this includes the volume control which is a simple type of rotary encoder. Contamination of the switches is possible, by dirt (which will clean off easily) or silicone (much harder to remove). Wear can have a similar effect.
I have a Denon system with a digital volume control which is notorious for a similar fault due to the silicone grease they used to give the volume control a nicely damped feel. The lack of surface tension means the grease migrates slowly but steadily until it intermittently insulates the contacts, confusing the algorithms that determine which way you turned the volume Furniture polish containing silicone can do the same ...
I've just checked. I can get some Servisol 10 from Maplin tonight. Can i just spray this all over each of the contacts/encoder in turn, then work them over a bit, and then does the stuff naturally evaporate/dry off, leaving everything clean and dry as if it was never wet?
You need to get the Servisol onto the actual contacts, which means finding some sort of gap or hole. Be sparing with it - there's no point in spraying gallons of the stuff about, especially if it's not getting inside. It does dry off over the next day or two, but you should wipe off any obvious surplus with a rag after applying it and exercising the switches.
It was common for those tact switches to go high resistance or open circuit due to oxidisation over time, a check with a multimeter on the ohms or continuity range would confirm this.
You may need to dismantle that to clean it properly, but see if you can get some Servisol inside without first.
I had a similar fault on a tuner-amp I repaired for a friend. The volume would go up normally, but only go down if I spun the control quite fast. The internal battery had leaked and eaten through a PC track, some distance away from the logical location, so you may just have a missing control line somewhere.
I picked up some Servisol 10 from Maplin last night (last can on their shelf). I routinely went round all the microswitches and the encoder, and sprayed liberally, working each in turn whilst wet, twice. Then i dried off the best i could and left everything out to finish drying over night. I'm now waiting for the replacement belts to come before I can reassemble and apply power again to try it all out. In the meantime, I've still go these horrible gooey belt pulleys to clean up. I think i'll use some cotton buds with either WD40 or "sticky stuff remover" on. (I'll admit without referring to the instruction on the sticky stuff remover, i'm unsure at this time if this stuff is safe on the plastics!? It's horrible stuff. It stinks. And you never really get rid of all of it by the time you're finished. I might be able to clean it off with some brake cleaner i have in the garage for doing the cars? I've never tried that before though, although brake cleaner is GREAT stuff!)
Be very suspicious of using sticky stuff remover or brake cleaner, the more these compounds smell the more likely that they will dissolve the plastic. Sounds like acetone compounds to me, like nail varnish remover, another no-no.
If you use WD40 as a cleaner, spray some into a small container such as the aerosol cap and dip your cotton bud or rag in that.
Ordinary white spirit is just as good and much cheaper though. I think Poundland sell it amongst other places. I just mentioned WD40 because most people will already have some.
Ok thanks. I'll stick to the WD40 then. I might even have some white spirit actually. I'll have a look around. I'll probably not get a chance to have a go at this until early next week now. luckily i live on my own, so the fact that there's a 90's HiFi in bits all over the lounge floor is not an issue.
So i've mostly cleaned up my pulley's now. And i've received what i'd hoped was the actual necessary belt kit from an ebay seller for this tape deck (although it was advertised appropriate for other hifi tape decks, not mine (but still Aiwa). I went for it because his pictures looked identical practically, when compared to my tape deck assembly.
Here's another link to a similar stereo which appears to have the same design of tape deck as mine: http://repaircafe.shoutwiki.com/wiki...ystem_NSX_D707
So the problem i've got, as i've illustrated hopefully clearly enough in the following photos, is that this apparent belt routing doesn't work well as there are two belt pulleys on the motor. The lower groove on the motor lines up perfectly in the Z-axis with pulleys 1, 2, 4, 7 and the lower groove only on pulley 3. The upper groove on the motor pulley lines up perfectly in the Z-axis with the upper groove on pulley 3 ONLY.
BUT, i'm supposed to be putting the TWO belts around the pulleys as illustrated in the specified picture , whereas i can only see it working with THREE belts as illustrated in the proposed picture...!?
The reason for this is, with only TWO belts, and having to use the upper pulley on the motor for the pulleys to the right hand side (3, 4 and 7), means that the belt would be having to be angled down from the motor to both pulleys 3 and 7. To 7 isn't such a big deal, as it's so far away, so the apparent angle isn't alarming, but between the motor pulley and pulley 3, it's much more severe and IS alarming! I think it wont last long before it either slips or gets stressed out with friction.
Because of this concern (and confusion), i've come up with the alternative THREE belt routing as mentioned.
So i'm basically looking for some comments or concerns, or indeed, if anyone has a hi-fi similar to this one, with this same tape deck assembly in it, if they can advise how theirs is routed, as this stumps me. I can never see it working as per the design!?
In the past I have repaired similar decks, and they do only use two belts, IIRC routed as shown in one of your pictures. The explode diagram isn't, in a way, brilliant, but it does show thaat only two belts are used, though not how they are routed. The pictures on eBay aren't brilliantly clear, either.
In the past I have repaired similar decks, and they do only use two belts, IIRC routed as shown in one of your pictures.
...As would be expected from the Aiwa service manual, BUT, this routing puts a "twist" or "bend" on the belt going from the motor pulley (upper) to the lower groove on pulley 3!? (I may need to take a picture from the side with the motor re-mounted and with the belt fitted to illustrate this to people properly!?)
All I can think of is that, besides the motor pulley having two grooves one above the other, is that the grooves on the two flywheels are in different positions, one nearer the bearing end, the other nearer the spindle end. This is supposed to allow the belts to be routed so that they run correctly. Thus the belt which is routed around the lower of the two grooves in the pulley should go around the flywheel whose groove is lower down, and vice-versa.
I'll try and get a photo up tomorrow, showing the designed routing and the apparent problem I have with this. But basically the top motor pulley only lines up (is at same height) with the top groove on pulley 3. The bottom motor pulley lines up (is at same height) with pulleys 1, 2, 4, 7 and the bottom groove on pulley 3. So how can I use both grooves on the motor pulley and use only two belts but still wrap around all necessary pulleys without a belt changing height between two pulleys?!
I'll get some more pictures, or make a video tonight, but until then, this picture might illustrate the issue.
When the motor is mounted in the middle, with its two mini pulleys in between the black plastic struts in the middle of the picture, the top motor pulley matches the height of the top groove on #3 and the bottom motor pulley matches the height of the bottom groove on #3 AND the groove on #2.
So, since #2 only has ONE groove to choose from, i've been putting a belt on the bottom motor pulley and feeding it on to #2 and on to #1 and back.
That only leaves the top motor pulley free and available for the second belt. So i've been feeding that belt on to the top groove of #3, since where else is it going to go!? If i put it on to the bottom groove of #3, then the belt isn't straight. It's sits diagonal between the motor top pulley and #3!
So now you say "yeah!? well do that then!", but IF i DO, then the other pulleys i've still not mentioned yet (#4, #7), which are at the same height with their groove; are all at the same height as #2 and the bottom groove of #3. If i'm only to use two belts, then how can i go from the motor top pulley to the bottom groove on #3 and then on to grooves on #4 and #7 without making the belt diagonal!?