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It depends… probably the most expensive part on the duemilanove is the FTDI chip (~5€) and the Atmega (~3€), the rest are “small” componts that come cheap (and I have them in my stock so can’t realy tell about the price). If you can make your own PCB, I think the price would be about 10€ and one afternoon of work
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This weekend i siezed a big end bearing for the second time , probably because a lack of oil pressure (running a baffeled wet sump) .
I have read som good stuff about Racelines dry sump but i mailed them and they said it's not made for tranverse applications..
The Cosworth dry sump that burton sells should be good for both inline and transverse engines , quite expensive though..
I have found an used dry sump on ebay that's marked caterham at the bottom, does anyone know the difference between the cosworth dry sump and the caterham one???
Pace don't work in my experience!!, only heard good things about the AT power stuff and they certainly knew what they were talking about when I spoke to them.
And the funny thing about the system about is the way atpower tell the man to put the oil back into the block .
As the bloke that told him done it this way years ago while he was at pace and wiped out his own engine
Cosworth caused all kinds of problems in Caterham race cars, solved by using Raceline (with Caterham logo)
If Raceline say it is not for transverse use, then fair enough. I would probably go for tried and trusted Pace set up then
Thought i could grab a bargain here but after hearing from all of you that i shouldn't i'll guess i will go for the Pace or AT kit...
OK, so you haven't seen the Raceline one then, it uses a specifically designed internal pump, that replaces the OEM one, so no external belts or pump required.
Arguably the neatest install and also the most cost effective and like yours in use in several cars putting out 300+ bhp.
How about some pictures and details of your sump, always interesting to see what options are out there
hi lacey do the pace kits need the engine to breath or can the rocker and block breathers be blocked off
The Raceline one has had no problems at all and has the option of fitting an extra scavenge pump for "only extreme performance levels will require the need of additional scavenge" It has proven to be fine without the external pump on plain old vanilla sub 300bhp engines.
You kit looks really nice and to be honest will be a bit easier to fit over a cross member of an Escort, personally I like the neatness of the internal pump, not to mention a 400 quid cheaper price. But horses for courses!
I do agree the raceline one is compact , but if you were to add a extra scav stage is that also internal ? Coz if it's external then it will surely defeat the idea of the neatness of it all
And if it needs a extra scav stage for extreme engines then I very much doubt the normal kit will pull
Not many people run over 300bhp, which does not defeat the neatness. Pete McEwen who designed it, refined and tested it at Mountune and by a mate of his who did some kind of computational fluid analysis test on it, using the same software he uses for F1 engines.
Regardless of your doubts, the Raceline DS is a well proven design with dozens in action on racetracks every weekend in Caterhams etc. I have used it on three engines myself with no issues.
I have extensive experience of the cosworth kit in a 300 bhp escort, works well and had no problems on circuit or rallying, only prob is the engine sits too high in an escort. Can space the x member down but mucks up the geom. I've converted to pace external system but not tested it yet. Dunno how well it works transverse.
My DS system is designed to fit the Escort in the original crank CL position (not raised) on the original standard X member and OE Pinto engine mount rubbers (on my cast Al. engine mount-to-block) as shown. No changes to X member or steering required. Scavenge pump has huge capacity for any crank-case vacuum you want to run and the tank remains full under all conditions!
I'm running it in mine at around the 300HP mark and have never even marked a bearing in 3 seasons; I have only changed oil about 4 times in that period whether it needed it or not (LOL) ; proof that it works well.
I've referred to your build several times since starting my latest project. You've done some VERY nice work on your car.
I know I'm reviving an old thread here, but I just received a Raceline Dry Sump kit, and I noticed that the pump has a lot of backlash compared to other gear type oil pumps I've examined.
This is a road race engine, around 300hp, that I'll be spinning to around 9,000 rpm, so I want to be sure I have plenty of oil flow and pressure to handle that kind of rpm.
I also have ARP main studs, and it looks like shortening some studs a bit, as well as clearancing the scraper plates will gain the needed clearance.
On another topic, I called Crane Cams yesterday to ask for cam recommendations, and it seems they have discontinued supporting the Duratec.
The block is a Ranger 2.3, with a modified Forged Ecoboost crank, Molnar forged rods, and Wiseco 12.5:1 forged pistons.
The head is a 2.5 unit, casting # RF8E5E from a 2010 Fusion, and I have modified the oiling system to feed the front intake cam journal from the main oil feed instead of through the VVT system.
Intakes will be 50mm ITB's, and due to space limitations in the chassis, we're designing a billet intake that will place the throttles as close to the port as possible, and angled up approximately 45 degrees or so.
I plan to fabricate an airbox over the airhorns, and duct cool air from a remote filter behind the grille
I'm aiming for peak power to be around 8,000 - 8,500 rpm, and would like to see over 300HP if possible.
I do like the Kent Cams design, which comes with an adjustable sprocket standard, and gets rid of the single bolt/friction washer setup, but I need to make sure they offer them in 38 tooth to match my oil pump and crank gears, and chains.