This is the start of the climb, it is right of "End of My Rope". No real protection till you get to the roof but it is easy.
“This is the start of the climb, it is right of "End of My Rope". No real protection till you get to the roof but it is easy. ”
Climb up a large flake into a right-facing, rattly, finger crack. Pull the lip and the climb is done. There are bolts on top for an anchor with rap rings. Due to the crystalline nature of the crack, the gear is a little hard to fish in. The gear is good, but you will have to fiddle with it to get it in nicely.
This climb is on the northern side of a little wall referred to as Goldirocks, in Heel&Toe, use the same trail to get to the southeast side of Blair 0, and continue east to Goldirocks. The short wall should be visible, it is just on the other side of the little valley.
Also, if you are up on Medium Cool or that area, walk east around the end, by Crack Named Sue, and you'll be looking at Stress Fracture down in the valley. It is a very obvious climb.
I found the gear easy to place and bomber. It is a short route, but it is nice to be able to climb a vertical finger crack at Vedauwoo. Since the route is so short, thus the ground is close, I would bring at least two or three finger sized pieces and two hand sized pieces (one for the bottom and one for the top). Jul 4, 2009
I had wanted to do this one for a long time, but it isn't that great. The setting is cool, but the climbing isn't as good as it looks. The rock quality is poor on the first half, the gear is kind of tedious, and the climbing is just kind of awkward (and sharp, even by Vedauwoo standards). Probably worth doing once. Sep 4, 2012
I kind of agree with slim. It is worth doing once. Might as well run a lap or two on TR afterward, to make it worth it. We expected it to be twice as long, so it was a bit of a letdown when we realized it was only 25 feet high. I agree that the gear is a little tedious. The only placement I really had an issue with was the one right before the hand jam exit. It seemed to take forever to get it just right, because the rock is so jagged, and it needs to be just right because you really cant afford it to blow out with that ledge below you. Sep 24, 2012
Pigeon Nest Crack has awkward, insecure, chimney pod moves with debris to an easy right-angling hand and fist ramp. Belay on gear at the top.
Also not a gimme for the grade. This crack is pretty much completely trad since you can't trust that rusty old piton that's still in there. The route is also known as "Glatte Kante" which means "blank arete". There's a reason why! This actually takes real crack technique (for the hands, anyway) to get up.
Crack starts wide (crux) and narrows up top. Arete has some good holds to offer. After the crack ends, easy ledgy terrain to the chains.
Single rack of cams to 3" and stoppers. Chains up top (shared with two routes on river facing side of formation).
Climbing the crack directly and avoiding the arete or the crack around the other side yields a really fun 10-ish pure crack climb with some really fun moves. Definitely contrived, but a ton of fun! Apr 16, 2018
Hello. I'm Kaydynce. Im 13 years old. I live with my mom, dad, sister named Amya, my other sister named Paris, brother named Stark, and my other brother named Kay. The thing is that i'm reading all of these fanfiction stories that people end up being a sibling/child of a member of one direction. I want to see if that could actually happen. So Later that day my older brother Stark tells me something very interesting. Do you think the band will agree to have me as part of their family? (More description in the book)
"What! No way! R u serious?" I asked/said. "Yeah I'm sorry we didn't tell you before." He said looking down. "That's ok Starky(nickname) but do u know who my real parents are?" I asked waiting to know. "Nope" he said. I saw the sparkle in his eyes that he was lying. I knew it. He lived me too much for me to leave. "Stark,please tell me and if I go live with that family I will call you and visit all the time. But I know you can't stand it when the people you love go away"
"Ok yeah I get it u know that I know. But promise NOT to freak out when I tell you." He laughed a little. "Why would I freak out?" "Because you are Liam Payne's sister." WHAT IS THIS REALLY HAPPENING I thought. I breathed in and out. "You can freak out now!" He said with ear muffs on. "AHHHHH OMG IM A PAYNE IM A KAYDYNCE FREAKING JAMES FREAKING PAYNE!! I CANT BELIVE THIS!!!"
I ran downstairs screaming "AHHHHH!!!" Excitedly. "Mom dad would you let me live with my real family?" They looked at each other. "So Stark told you already. We thought you would be mad." "How can I be mad. I just found out I'm Liam Payne's sister." I said. "That's true. I can contact him if u want " "Ok!" They dialled the number. "Hello." He said in his British accent. "Hello Liam. This is your little sister Kaydynce."