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Now that winter is here I'm thinking about what improvements I can do to the T, I have been thinking about adding signal lights, I know this may cause some to be unhappy because it will not keep it original, my thinking is safety, a lot of people these days don't understand hand signals sometimes people are waving at me because they think I'm waving at them hate to do it myself but would really hate to get hit
I highly recommend the "E-lights" from the Egypt Garage. Wireless, easy to install, reliable, you can quicky take 'em off for those "pure showing moments" too! I have two sets that I swap around between 4 cars.
I went with Model A tail lights set up for stop/turn/tail light. I used a 3 to 2 wire converter for the stop/turn. Simple and cheep. PK
Frank Harris posted his wiring diagram several years ago for his turn signal add-on but I can not find it now.
Safety comes first, in my opinion. I made my own turn signal setup, and included brake lights. I took a spare horn button and integrated a DPTP switch into it. I made a simple circuit with a 12volt battery and installed it under the dash right above the steering column. For lights I am using small motorcycle lights mounted under the T.
You have made a good decision but be sure the ones you put on your car can be easily seen. What looks good standing 8-10 ft in front or in back of your car may not be very good viewed from 6-8 car lengths away. Use LED if at all possible. I went to a big truck stop near by and looked thru the huge selection of all the lights. Painted the fixtures black and used the amber lenses. Look good and work well. 6 v too.
The E-Lights are very good and very bright, the only problem i had is the mount is flimsy and broke due to vibration, i have not re-installed it as i am trying to figure out a way to strengthen the rear mount.
I have E lights mounted on the shelf behind the seat of my coupe and really like that set up.. 0nly problem is there is no set up for the front.
I have never understood why anyone would want to question 'not original' on a Model T car. Going for a Stynoski, or participating in a high point car judging? OK then, leave them off but this gang is probably more often then not part of the trailer set and has no concern getting caught out at dusk or when dark clouds roll in.
Safety above all else, even in bright daylight folks always assume a T is faster than it really is when they are behind you; slower than it really is when they want to hole-shot in front of you, and got a '0' on the test for what hand-signals originally meant. Getting caught out at dusk is equally scary!
Caught in dusk, I always had modern iron follow me close. Turn signals by hand have always been iffy, and folks have a 100% expectation of a big bright brake light to signal 'stop'.
After 40 years of T's, I just this year added lights/4 ways/turns/brakes to my hack and did it with what I felt was era sympathetic.
I bought reproduction Model A dual lamp tail lights and with smart shopping on the internet you can buy them for about 20 bucks each, new in box...I bought the 28 Ford commercial lamp mounting forgings, and the decorative stamped cover that changes the straight out the back thimble to look like one coming in the bottom...
I shopped long and hard to find a 7-wire column mount switch with 4-way AND indicator light that came in BLACK. Surprisingly, it turned out cheaper from any other offering out there new in box...
I decided to make reproduction era specific asphalt impregnated cloth wire looms using color traced wires.
I also removed the original wire set supplied integral with the turn signal switch and went to an era type color tracer system for all of the new stuff. (This made the wiring part 5 times the price that normal point to point wiring cheap wiring would have cost and I don't recommend it as it is out of sight out of mind when done, but it was therapy for me to prove I could do it.
I also added an 8th wire from the actual internal part of the Signal-Stat unit to eliminate any chance for reported gremlin problems with Signal-stat finding a good ground. I also trashed the vinyl loom cover on the Signal Stat and replaced it with asphalt coated cotton loom that goes all the way to my hidden 2nd terminal block without in line splices...
I ended up with LED lamps in the yellow beehive as they were the brightest of all the lamps that I tried and I tried them all.
LED in the back didn't work as well as expected for two reasons...the Model A repro red glass is thick and a cranberry glass to begin with. Even with 32CP6V lamps it is no better than my '15's E&J #9 when lit. The 2nd reason is not enough resistance/ impedance to 'fire' all 4 LED on a 6V system without doing something else and I just left the 32CP6V lamps in for now. I'll be putting 50CP lamps in the light/turn signal section of the tea-cup housings in the future. 32CP brake lights work well as the Model A lens has the STOP emboss cast in the glass allowing lots more 'light' to pass through.
I have been warned that it may be illegal to have running lamps brighter than brake lamps...but in use, the lower CP lamp is still brighter due to the lens.
It wasn't a hard task to do...the only complication was my deciding to make wire looms that look factory/era made and it added bunches of unnecessary time and money.
If you would like to consider going this way, I can send you photos and the wiring diagram that I came up with.
Lang's period looking turn sig. switch, ($20 with "reminder" flashing bulb in the handle) removable "A" tail lamps with 1129 bulbs in both sockets, Fun Projects brake light sw. kit, bee hive fronts mounted on the head lamp stalk nuts. Sorry to say it didn't make a darn bit of difference to whatever jerk was behind me.
I made up my own...L/R singals...4way emergency, brake lights, headlights/tail lights all fused. And for good measure I threw in run on mag/ run on battery. Only the amp meter remains working on the original terminal. Would post pictures but truthfully....don't know how.....J. So much for all that nonsense.....
I have bought a "lygtebom" (Light bar??) normally ment with an extra licence plate as well to be mounted on the rear of your car, when you pickup the kids at the station and have to have their bicycle as well. Then the bike hides the licenseplate and/or the rear lights and in Denmark you are then obliged to use such light bar:
As a curiosum I have then also managed to order the special variant "3rd licenseplate" in modern reflective material even though I have historical plates with just a letter and 3 digits:
In the comming season I will use that whenever I drive longer distances while taking it off during the events. Then I not only have larger and brighter rearlights and turnsignals, but also a large reflective in the center of the car.
The rearlights are standard red model T with 2 filamen bulbs with combined brake light and turnsignal.
I bought my Model A lights from Speedway (12V)and the 3/2 converter from Dell City Electric. The rest I had on the shelf. I used a toggle switch for turn signals and a class A truck brake switch. Everything is hidden pretty good. It was my favorite type of project, cheep! Diagram attached. PK
George - I am very much "electrically challenged" so will use the wrong terms here, however, I can understand that the 4 LED signal lights are not enough electric load to "fire" the the flashers, but how about this:
Put an old style bulb in the turn signal circuit on each side, and mount the bulbs someplace around the dash or steering column, maybe in a small neat box with bulbs labeled right and left (R&L) for enough electric load to fire the flashers and also as a flashing indicator to remind the driver to cancel the turn signal after making the turn. (???)
I would rather look cheep then dead! I kept mine simple, Signal-stat 600 simple hook up but no 4 way. Separate brake/tail light and turn signals lamps in the rear.
Will 12 volt leds bought at the truck stop, auto parts store or where ever work on 6 volts. My thought was buy a 5 amp 6 volt to 12 volt converter sold by the venders.. But was told I would have to put a resister in line, then will I draw more than 5 amps on my converter
If you use them for turn signals you may need a flasher relay. These are advertised as working with 6v and leds, don't know if it's accurate?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pin-Motorcycle-Motorbike-6-12V-Turn-Signal-LED-Indicat or-Flasher-Relay-Beeper-/111506032456