Review (3/5): Captivating But Concerning
Amore Pacific, based in South Korea, lists "alcohol" as an ingredient in its Color Control Cushion Compact with SPF 50. Since there are good and bad alcohols, I resisted jumping to a negative conclusion especially because I agree with AP regarding the impressive visible benefits conferred by their treatment foundation that has many fans atwitter and aglow.
AP's response to my inquiry was delayed, which I considered either bad (corporate communications) netiquette or bad news. After four workdays, I received a reply thanking me for my "patience" as a response from R&D "to ensure correct information and advice" had not yet been received. When I informed the company that I HAVE no patience and am spoiled by live chats, which provide instant gratification, I received an answer two days later. Apparently, bamboo sap, the primary moisturizing ingredient, is easily contaminated as it's stored for prolonged periods. To prevent "micro-organic pollution," anhydrous alcohol is used. This is ethyl alcohol, which some scientists who write for respected journals warn consumers to avoid because it penetrates the skin barrier and provokes short- and long-term harm, exacerbates oily skin and redness, and may even minimize the efficacy of good ingredients including those that protect against sun damage.
AP is the parent company of Sulwhasoo, which makes a Perfecting Cushion that also includes "alcohol" but not bamboo sap. I don't know what ingredient(s) this brand is protecting.
AP asserts that their anhydrous alcohol is dermatologist approved, but we have no idea who the dermatologist is and whether or not the doctor was paid. AP says that their anhydrous alcohol is patented, but this is just ethyl alcohol with water removed and can't be patented.
The respected Washington, D.C.-based Environmental Working Group (EWG) rates this alcohol a 2 (out of 10) and asserts that anything between 1 and 2 is "low hazard." The overall EWG rating for AP's Color Control Cushion Compact is "4," meaning that it is of *moderate* concern to human health. (The nonprofit group objects most strenuously to the sunscreen octinoxate and to the fragrances included.)
Our U.S. FDA approves the use of ethyl alcohol.
In 2008, the National Institutes of Health urged further investigation, but rigorous double-blind, peer-reviewed studies demand a lot of time and money. Meanwhile, concern lingers.